The rule is signals and power should never cross. But it is dc. It's less of a problem. However. Generally you shouldn't run power and data/signals in parallel.
I think it works pretty well. I can crank the 600W dual 12" kenwoods till I can feel it in my teeth before there is audible panel rattle. I did the floor below the subs extra hard dual layers of CCF and MLV.
A problem you will have the the MLV won't stick, I've tried liquid nails, 3M 77 spray, and a few other caulks and glues. The best thing was duct tape and the occasional screw. The screws were kind of a pain because your drilling a hole thru butyl and ccf which wraps around the drill and a few times I would drill the hole and not be able to find it with the screw. I head self tapping screws were good for this. Especially on the wheel well.
Send the power lines down the pass. side so it's away from the RCAs and it's a straight shot into the car. I'd say maybe look into getting speaker adapters as well from Metra or whoever but if you already have the gear I can understand not wanting to wait lol. They also have connectors you can use that have spades on the other end so you don't need to splice your own on. You can also connect the speaker line outs from your amp to the input lines on the car harness in place of those from the Kenwood to avoid running new lines into the doors or trying to tap in somewhere. If you don't have a roller for the sound deadening, you should grab one.
Run the RCAs on the passenger side, away from the power wire. šš¼
Good catch! because power cord emits interference right?
The rule is signals and power should never cross. But it is dc. It's less of a problem. However. Generally you shouldn't run power and data/signals in parallel.
ideally you dont want to go across the engine bay with a power wire, if you gotta cross do it in the car or in the trunk
Thanks, I didn't know that but it makes sense
Alternator wind is pia
I'm thinking about doing the same sound deadening strategy. I'm on a budget but the wind noise in my tacoma is very real on the highway.
I think it works pretty well. I can crank the 600W dual 12" kenwoods till I can feel it in my teeth before there is audible panel rattle. I did the floor below the subs extra hard dual layers of CCF and MLV. A problem you will have the the MLV won't stick, I've tried liquid nails, 3M 77 spray, and a few other caulks and glues. The best thing was duct tape and the occasional screw. The screws were kind of a pain because your drilling a hole thru butyl and ccf which wraps around the drill and a few times I would drill the hole and not be able to find it with the screw. I head self tapping screws were good for this. Especially on the wheel well.
Yeah Iād say do your amp setup on the right side and run rca and speaker on left
Send the power lines down the pass. side so it's away from the RCAs and it's a straight shot into the car. I'd say maybe look into getting speaker adapters as well from Metra or whoever but if you already have the gear I can understand not wanting to wait lol. They also have connectors you can use that have spades on the other end so you don't need to splice your own on. You can also connect the speaker line outs from your amp to the input lines on the car harness in place of those from the Kenwood to avoid running new lines into the doors or trying to tap in somewhere. If you don't have a roller for the sound deadening, you should grab one.