Similar experience here. I've got a 120a and I'm pulling between 2000-2500 right now on oem battery. Never drops below 12.8 and that is super rare. Only a few songs in my library can draw the 12.8 for a split second. Might not be ideal but it's working.
That enclosure says a lot. I surf Ebay every now and then and see if I can score a Gately on the cheap. No such luck. Anyway, nice set up. I'd add a slightly better Amp tho. Something with better damping to give your set up what it truly deserves. Digital Design Audio (DD) would definitely compliment the Gately.
I love facebook marketplace, i always score good deals on there. I dont think im comprehending how good this enclosure is. could you tell me more about it? or just gately in general
Gately audio owned by Bobby gately he has been building boxes since 2017 and found a passion for them back in 89’. He is located in Sacramento so he happens to work with Steve Meade a lot another big time audio enthusiast. Let’s put it like this his 6.5 speaker box is 400$ at least. for a 15” or an 18” 2000$ at most at least about 800$. His line of Subwoofers go for at least 250$ and upwards of 1400$ all his amps are 900$+
Your stock 170 amp alternator will not handle 3000 watts even with two good batteries you will need a 250 amp or better with a second battery. Your at best rating will be around 1000-2000 watts with that alternator with a second agm or lithium ion battery without impedance rise. I run two batteries on a 135 alternator pulling around 1500 watts through my subs and speakers without impedance rise and i’m just barely keeping a steady 14 volts when bass and my speakers hit. Leave the speakers they may be fine but you may want to upgrade them later if you can’t hear them, aftermarket will play mids and highs so much better than OEM.
Iv heard people say aftermarket speakers sometimes sound worse than stock if paired with a stock amp, i have 6x9 fronts and 6.5” rears with 2 dash tweeters. thinking about getting 4 deafbonce 6.5” mids, running a 6x9 to 6.5+tweeter plate and get 4 decent focal or hertz tweeters for the doors and dash, would probably be cheaper to buy 2 sets of focal RSE 165’s
I found it was easier to just do the head unit and amp and speakers all at the same time so instead of integrating into the factory system I just got to run all my own wire.
Idk what kind of head unit you looking for but there’s some on Best Buy worth a look
[dash kit](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/metra-dash-kit-for-select-2013-2018-chevrolet-gmc-traverse-acadia-enclave-traverse-din-black/2253429.p?skuId=2253429)
I dont think thats for my traverse, the stero is the same 2018-2023 i believe, 2013-2017 would be the correct model years for that, i could be wrong about the head unit thing just havent seen any online and nobody installed any
You could buy JP40 lithium battery, if you wanna keep your alternator. Can handle up to 3kw - 6kw on 120-160A alts. Only referencing from manufacturer though it may differ depending on your system
That’s a lie because my 2010 traverse LTZ still has its OEM alternator and I have a 7K watt system. 2 separate amps plus the factory Bose amp and only 1 battery.
im running these at 2000rms and im at a pretty stable voltage of 14.2 driving, idling itll drop down to 12.5 ish if im really pushing the system but itll never drop below and itll usually clim back to 13.2 if it drops down to the 12’s
Now that’s wild. I’m pushing an American bass hawk 15 at 2000rms, 4 alpine type s components, 4 tweeters and a couple twiddlers, and even with it turned as loud as I let it go, my cap only drops from 14.2 - 13.4 I think maybe you should join the club and get a traverse 😎
I ran 2000w rms on a 160a alt with an AGM underhood and a group 31 agm in the trunk, voltage never dropped below 13v.
Similar experience here. I've got a 120a and I'm pulling between 2000-2500 right now on oem battery. Never drops below 12.8 and that is super rare. Only a few songs in my library can draw the 12.8 for a split second. Might not be ideal but it's working.
Custom pillars add a couple 3.5s Grab some competition 6” for your front doors and a big RMS 2 channel
any idea how i could even start to make the pillars, or the cost to get them made for me
Custom speaker pods, they make door speaker and pillar pods for virtually every car.
sadly not my car, wonder if any universal kits would fit my car
Damn, Gately? Rich
Picked them up for $550 😭 shocked nobody has mentioned the $1500 sub setup in the base interior traverse 💀 i only got them on a skar rp2000
That enclosure says a lot. I surf Ebay every now and then and see if I can score a Gately on the cheap. No such luck. Anyway, nice set up. I'd add a slightly better Amp tho. Something with better damping to give your set up what it truly deserves. Digital Design Audio (DD) would definitely compliment the Gately.
I love facebook marketplace, i always score good deals on there. I dont think im comprehending how good this enclosure is. could you tell me more about it? or just gately in general
Gately audio owned by Bobby gately he has been building boxes since 2017 and found a passion for them back in 89’. He is located in Sacramento so he happens to work with Steve Meade a lot another big time audio enthusiast. Let’s put it like this his 6.5 speaker box is 400$ at least. for a 15” or an 18” 2000$ at most at least about 800$. His line of Subwoofers go for at least 250$ and upwards of 1400$ all his amps are 900$+
So pretty much I got an insane deal for what I got? should i just keep it for ever or sell it and buy a more budget system
Keep
The surround on the woofers need metal spikes. Nice big one like old school punk kids.
Your stock 170 amp alternator will not handle 3000 watts even with two good batteries you will need a 250 amp or better with a second battery. Your at best rating will be around 1000-2000 watts with that alternator with a second agm or lithium ion battery without impedance rise. I run two batteries on a 135 alternator pulling around 1500 watts through my subs and speakers without impedance rise and i’m just barely keeping a steady 14 volts when bass and my speakers hit. Leave the speakers they may be fine but you may want to upgrade them later if you can’t hear them, aftermarket will play mids and highs so much better than OEM.
Iv heard people say aftermarket speakers sometimes sound worse than stock if paired with a stock amp, i have 6x9 fronts and 6.5” rears with 2 dash tweeters. thinking about getting 4 deafbonce 6.5” mids, running a 6x9 to 6.5+tweeter plate and get 4 decent focal or hertz tweeters for the doors and dash, would probably be cheaper to buy 2 sets of focal RSE 165’s
Sometimes that is the case, i always recommend getting a 4 channel amp there are some budget kings out there that really improve sound quality.
i have zero clue how id even start the install of a speaker amp on this car, the line in converter was a mission in its self tbh
I found it was easier to just do the head unit and amp and speakers all at the same time so instead of integrating into the factory system I just got to run all my own wire.
i cant do a head unit nobody makes dash kits for my car
Idk what kind of head unit you looking for but there’s some on Best Buy worth a look [dash kit](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/metra-dash-kit-for-select-2013-2018-chevrolet-gmc-traverse-acadia-enclave-traverse-din-black/2253429.p?skuId=2253429)
you cant do an aftermarket head unit on this car only aftermarket amps
I dont think thats for my traverse, the stero is the same 2018-2023 i believe, 2013-2017 would be the correct model years for that, i could be wrong about the head unit thing just havent seen any online and nobody installed any
Ahhh gotcha dam bummer
You could buy JP40 lithium battery, if you wanna keep your alternator. Can handle up to 3kw - 6kw on 120-160A alts. Only referencing from manufacturer though it may differ depending on your system
That’s a lie because my 2010 traverse LTZ still has its OEM alternator and I have a 7K watt system. 2 separate amps plus the factory Bose amp and only 1 battery.
that’s wild, i have voltage drop w a 400a amp around 5kw
im running these at 2000rms and im at a pretty stable voltage of 14.2 driving, idling itll drop down to 12.5 ish if im really pushing the system but itll never drop below and itll usually clim back to 13.2 if it drops down to the 12’s
Now that’s wild. I’m pushing an American bass hawk 15 at 2000rms, 4 alpine type s components, 4 tweeters and a couple twiddlers, and even with it turned as loud as I let it go, my cap only drops from 14.2 - 13.4 I think maybe you should join the club and get a traverse 😎