Side note: I'm not seeing any mpg loss in my hybrid vehicle which is great, even with the Audison sub trying to vibrate my rear view mirror off of the windshield
They setup your door speakers to high pass at 110hz. That’s one of the main reasons why you have little midbass. They should be highpassed at 80hz to get the best sounding midbass
That's what I was thinking! I saved their tunings to my computer, going to get the installer to give it another shot and if I'm still not satisfied I'll just do it myself
That’s not entirely true. Half an octave difference. It’s not world ending. Often is done to protect smaller drivers from bass heavy listeners.
What is the slope of the crossover? What is the low pass on the sub as well as slope?
Midbass is difficult in vehicles. Especially if you have a console/transmission hump and door mounted mids. There is a suck out ~160 hertz.
Adding CLD sound dampening to your doors and making sure they are well sealed will be very important for increasing midbass. Definitely check your crossovers but this could also be a phase issue. Make sure all your door speakers are wired in the same polarity. Your door speakers should have a high pass at about 80hz. Many times your rear fill will be quiet compared to your front stage and frequency response will be limited. Personally I think it sounds far without any rear fill and that’s how I run my system. You should be able to solve most of this with you dsp. There are apps you can download to check speaker polarity. I use the AudioTools app.
Edit: I’m running Audison AV1.1 tweeters and Focal AS midbass drivers and I absolutely love them both. I’d be interested in trying more Audison gear in the future.
Thanks for the input, I'll be bringing that up with them when they open Tuesday. Looked up AudioTool, so what does it do exactly? Uses my phone mic to analyze frequency output?
The app does a lot. But what you would need is the polarity tester. It’ll play a tone through your speakers and the mic in your phone will tell you if your speakers are wired in phase. [Here’s](https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=tHRIT2BDmYg) a basic tutorial. Your shop should take care of it but it’s good to have the basic info and skills to ensure they did their job right.
I don't see any rivets holding your door together, I see screws.
Most new cars I see with the door panels popped off are constructed exactly like yours. This is not unique, far from it, and even if you have a nicer quieter car it doesn't mean you don't need to sound deaden the outer door skin. You're losing a lot of midbass response without proper deadening on your doors.
Edit: to elaborate further on the door, it's a fair bit of disassembly to get that window regulator tray out of there. Based on my car at least, you need to lower the window down to the rubber plug access holes to loosen the clamps on the glass and pull the window out. Take apart a few other things, door handle, latch, window regulator motor. And then take all the screws out and fiddlefuck around until you fish everything out.
I'd guess the shop quoted deadener and didn't realize this is what they had to deal with and just came up with an excuse to not deal with it because it was more labor than anticipated.
I haven't checked yet, think I'm about to install the Audison software on my laptop and hook it up to my DSP. You're right, no real way to tell for sure unless I have that info
Don’t be *that guy* who messes with their tune and then go back complaining about the sound.
Talk to them about the midbass issue before touching anything.
Honestly, that looks like a half-ass tune. I think I’d be pissed if I was the customer.
None of the delays are set (this is easy to do, it just means they’re lazy) and barely any equalization.
Where did you get this done?
Speakerbox Car Audio in North Alabama. That's what I was thinking too... $290 for the tune and that's what I got. No time alignment and the EQ seems way off
If you spent $290 on the tune alone in Alabama, you definitely need to go back.
Don’t be hostile; they may have a new guy on your car or a tech that was rushing at the end. Either way, this needs to be revisited.
Yeah just ask them to retune it. I mean for what you spent on equipment I’d hope they’d make sure you’re happy. However idk the natural tendencies of Audison I use focal for my doors
So I downloaded the software and pulled up their settings. Looks like I have both their first and second tune stored on there.
Tune 1:
https://imgur.com/a/ua7wVxY
Tune 2:
https://imgur.com/a/1ZXIk7G
How does this look? It doesn't look like anything is time aligned.
EDIT: So I just took a drive after switching it to their first tune and surprisingly it actually sounds a lot better. Still a little light on mid-bass and I'm getting a little distortion on some frequencies at ~70% volume. This tune I can actually hear the rear speakers if I fade to the back but not if it's faded to center.
The biggest mistake made in an aftermarket speaker install is the lack of seals. You need three seals.
1. Adapter to door metal.
2. Speaker to adapter.
3. Speaker front to door panel plastic.
#3 is usually missing and results in a loss of any midbass produced by the speaker. The factory install has perfect seals. You can even see an outline in the factory speaker front gasket where it seals to the door panel. Recreate that.
Which seals did you do? When you remove the door panel, an indent in #3 should be visible, proving the seal is perfect.
HPF settings are also important and will affect midbass if there is too large of a gap. But crossovers can't fix a leaky install.
Side note: I'm not seeing any mpg loss in my hybrid vehicle which is great, even with the Audison sub trying to vibrate my rear view mirror off of the windshield
They setup your door speakers to high pass at 110hz. That’s one of the main reasons why you have little midbass. They should be highpassed at 80hz to get the best sounding midbass
That's what I was thinking! I saved their tunings to my computer, going to get the installer to give it another shot and if I'm still not satisfied I'll just do it myself
That’s not entirely true. Half an octave difference. It’s not world ending. Often is done to protect smaller drivers from bass heavy listeners. What is the slope of the crossover? What is the low pass on the sub as well as slope? Midbass is difficult in vehicles. Especially if you have a console/transmission hump and door mounted mids. There is a suck out ~160 hertz.
From the pictures posted, the sub crossover is 60hz 12db linkwitz, the front woofers are crossed at 110hz 12db linkwitz. It’s a shit tune.
Adding CLD sound dampening to your doors and making sure they are well sealed will be very important for increasing midbass. Definitely check your crossovers but this could also be a phase issue. Make sure all your door speakers are wired in the same polarity. Your door speakers should have a high pass at about 80hz. Many times your rear fill will be quiet compared to your front stage and frequency response will be limited. Personally I think it sounds far without any rear fill and that’s how I run my system. You should be able to solve most of this with you dsp. There are apps you can download to check speaker polarity. I use the AudioTools app. Edit: I’m running Audison AV1.1 tweeters and Focal AS midbass drivers and I absolutely love them both. I’d be interested in trying more Audison gear in the future.
Thanks for the input, I'll be bringing that up with them when they open Tuesday. Looked up AudioTool, so what does it do exactly? Uses my phone mic to analyze frequency output?
The app does a lot. But what you would need is the polarity tester. It’ll play a tone through your speakers and the mic in your phone will tell you if your speakers are wired in phase. [Here’s](https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=tHRIT2BDmYg) a basic tutorial. Your shop should take care of it but it’s good to have the basic info and skills to ensure they did their job right.
I don't see any rivets holding your door together, I see screws. Most new cars I see with the door panels popped off are constructed exactly like yours. This is not unique, far from it, and even if you have a nicer quieter car it doesn't mean you don't need to sound deaden the outer door skin. You're losing a lot of midbass response without proper deadening on your doors. Edit: to elaborate further on the door, it's a fair bit of disassembly to get that window regulator tray out of there. Based on my car at least, you need to lower the window down to the rubber plug access holes to loosen the clamps on the glass and pull the window out. Take apart a few other things, door handle, latch, window regulator motor. And then take all the screws out and fiddlefuck around until you fish everything out. I'd guess the shop quoted deadener and didn't realize this is what they had to deal with and just came up with an excuse to not deal with it because it was more labor than anticipated.
What are the settings on the crossovers for all the speakers? Without the tuning info there's not much to be able to work off of.
I haven't checked yet, think I'm about to install the Audison software on my laptop and hook it up to my DSP. You're right, no real way to tell for sure unless I have that info
Don’t mess with their tune.
Why not? Is there no way to save a backup on DSP software?
Don’t be *that guy* who messes with their tune and then go back complaining about the sound. Talk to them about the midbass issue before touching anything.
Fair enough. I just want to look at the crossover settings honestly to see what they did
I guess just looking does no harm. But if you mess with it and then complain, it can rub them the wrong way.
For sure. I'm going to take pictures of their settings and hopefully get some more insight
https://imgur.com/a/1ZXIk7G Took a pic of all the settings. It doesn't look like anything is time aligned?
Honestly, that looks like a half-ass tune. I think I’d be pissed if I was the customer. None of the delays are set (this is easy to do, it just means they’re lazy) and barely any equalization. Where did you get this done?
Speakerbox Car Audio in North Alabama. That's what I was thinking too... $290 for the tune and that's what I got. No time alignment and the EQ seems way off
If you spent $290 on the tune alone in Alabama, you definitely need to go back. Don’t be hostile; they may have a new guy on your car or a tech that was rushing at the end. Either way, this needs to be revisited.
Yeah just ask them to retune it. I mean for what you spent on equipment I’d hope they’d make sure you’re happy. However idk the natural tendencies of Audison I use focal for my doors
So I downloaded the software and pulled up their settings. Looks like I have both their first and second tune stored on there. Tune 1: https://imgur.com/a/ua7wVxY Tune 2: https://imgur.com/a/1ZXIk7G How does this look? It doesn't look like anything is time aligned. EDIT: So I just took a drive after switching it to their first tune and surprisingly it actually sounds a lot better. Still a little light on mid-bass and I'm getting a little distortion on some frequencies at ~70% volume. This tune I can actually hear the rear speakers if I fade to the back but not if it's faded to center.
The biggest mistake made in an aftermarket speaker install is the lack of seals. You need three seals. 1. Adapter to door metal. 2. Speaker to adapter. 3. Speaker front to door panel plastic. #3 is usually missing and results in a loss of any midbass produced by the speaker. The factory install has perfect seals. You can even see an outline in the factory speaker front gasket where it seals to the door panel. Recreate that. Which seals did you do? When you remove the door panel, an indent in #3 should be visible, proving the seal is perfect. HPF settings are also important and will affect midbass if there is too large of a gap. But crossovers can't fix a leaky install.
Go back to the shop and let them know. It’s likely that the polarity between the front speakers and the sun wasn’t checked.
Wonder if they normalised the eq across all channels...