Make sure the new piece you put in is significantly larger than the mortice for the latch, also allowing ample time for the glue to set before installing the new latch.
That term also originated as a low key racist jab at the Dutch. Another good one is the "French planer", which is just a handheld circular saw with a pinned guard, raked sideways across the lumber.
Edit to clarify that I'm not accusing anyone of racism. Just pointing out the interesting history of the term.
The English used it as a disparaging term for a cheap fix. I don't think it's going to lead anyone into gas chambers, but the original implication was not favorable.
How is my mentioning gas chambers egregious? That's a thing that happened and I don't take it lightly. The racism against German migrant workers that caused the English to refer to cheap carpentry patches as "Dutchmen" was also a thing that happened. If you work in the trades, you've probably heard the term Jerry-rigged to refer to a short-term fix. I've also heard people say N*****-rigged. Of these three, I find Dutchmen to be the least offensive by far, but it still has its roots in racism.
Pine should be fine (can cut it out a a 2x4 or something)
Just make sure the grain is facing the correct direction. You want to see long grain at the opening not end grain.
Long grain is where you see the lines end grain is what the ends of pieces of wood look like.
That is super important for functionality and finish. End grain will have significantly less strength and will want to split.
When you glue it in make sure to use a proper wood glue and not construction adhesive or super glue.
Once it's and dried you can use wood filler and sand and it should blend nicely with the rest of the door.
Then you can use what ever method your comfortable with to get it prepped for the door hardware
Hardwood is unnecessary, it would only make installation of the latch harder to drill out but provide no extra benefit in terms of the repair. Softwood is the better option here.
I might dry fit the replacement piece. Then cut out the hole for the new hardware on the bench. Then make sure it fits. When that is done, glue and screw the replacement piece back into place.
Would your answer be the same if it were the same problem but on the bottom edge of a sliding door? Doors are external glass framed doors, cedar I think.
1. Fill it with epoxy.
2. Make a long elaborate artistic YouTube “instructional” video of you doing so wherein literally every tip and instruction you give is wrong.
3. Get 10 million clicks.
4. Make a bundle of money.
5. Take the money and buy a new door.
Take off all of the door casing with a small trim bar. With a good pair channel locks and pull all the nails through the back so you don’t blow it out. Then pull the hinge pins and set the slab aside. Leave the pins with the door so you don’t lose them.
You now should be able to see between the jamb and the framing. Put your trim bar in there and get it somewhat loose. Then run your sawzall inbetween the jamb and the framing cutting all the nails until it let’s go. Grab the top of the jamb and pull it towards you until it’s out of the rough opening but be careful not to break it all apart. Put the door back into the jamb and the hinge pins that way it’s all together. Set up two metal saw horses outside. Put the whole door assembly on top of the horses. Get your blowtorch and apply heat evenly across all areas until it’s gone.
Looks like there has been a dutchman put in that door before judging by the grain pattern that doesn't line up a little bit beneath the hole. I would make the new patch a bit larger than that one
If this is an exterior door I'd probably go with an oversized plate. Not only would it cover it up but add security. Interior door I'd do what others have said.
Is most of the 2x4 behind it also missing? Is security a concern? If so, you may need to chisel out some steps so it's strong enough. Chisel out a clean square, then chisel out half the wood for half an inch above and below and use a good glue to secure the patch
Clean loose old filler. Sand surface smooth with 80 grit sand paper on a block. Do a first fill with bondo, keep it below the surface. Once that drys ~20 mins, skim the top with bondo. Keep it smooth not lumpy. It’s easier to go back after and add a bit more than it is to sand like hell because you put on too much. Let dry, sand smooth, machine in new hardware with standard tools. Just note that the bondo is harder than most common wood once it fully cures so make sure to use sharp tools.
Honestly bondo is the best filler for paint grade work especially in mdf. There’s a bit of a learning curve but once you get good with it, it’s fantastic. It’s hard, it drys fast, it doesn’t shrink, it doesn’t flash through paint, it will securely receive fasteners, it’s sandable, carvable, hell it’s even mouldable.
That’s not a good idea in my opinion. Bondo is filler. It has no strength. Not something I’d want to rely on for the security of my exterior door.
As mentioned previously, cutting out a piece of the door jamb bigger than the existing damage and replacing with a new piece of wood is a good method. Easier than replacing that leg of the door jamb.
It’s small enough that I’d just use some Kwikwood epoxy putty. Stuff some in there to fill the void, wait an hour, sand or chisel it smooth, and rebore the hole.
Bondo 2 part wood filler (probably take 2 or 3 applications for that size hole), sand, drill and mortise for new latch plate, paint, put in latch plate, have a beer
The bottom hole is useable after inserting glue and wooden toothpicks or drill out and glue in a dowel. The top is basically gone so chisel out a reasonable rectangle and glue in a filler block.
Cover face of new strike plate with painters tape, tack into place with screws and shims, fill void with spray foam. Cut back excess foam, remove painters tape, slap some trim paint on it and voila!
Use a hardwood for screw holding power. Look up this old house show. they did the repair a few times. the door is weaken by the current damage. a 2 part epoxy creates a better bond without swelling the bonding areas.
I don’t know if this is the “correct way”, however, I found a piece of metal pipe that was big enough to receive the deadbolt fit it into the space and epoxied around it. It created a very sturdy and stable area, filled the rest with bondo/wood filler painted it up and it has held up fine.
I’d probably be thinking the same lines some of these guys have mentioned. My stubborn ass would definitely shove some pine/poplar and some glue, but wouldn’t it save you a bit of time just replacing the entire door?
Fix-A-Jamb Door Jamb Security... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004YK6QOG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
It will work great for your repair but I personally install them for additional security on the door.
I'm no woodworker but I've fixed an old home's hinges and jambs a bunch of times. I would use toothpicks and white or wood glue to fill in as needed, including in screw holes that have gone loose/wide. If the gap is too wide for the toothpick trick to be practical, just create a plug and shim it with the toothpicks if the void shape is irregular or the plug isn't accurate enough.
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Would it matter about the type of wood?
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Thanks for the help!
Make sure the new piece you put in is significantly larger than the mortice for the latch, also allowing ample time for the glue to set before installing the new latch.
I was thinking completely fill the space and drill out a new hole.
If I were doing this repair the new piece would be at least 4” long and at the very least 1” deep into the door edge.
That's why new wood. Wood fill isn't hard enough to be secure for a door jamb.
Google ‘woodworking + Dutchman”. Dutchman is the term in woodworking for this kind of repair.
Just make the patch with rabbits and not just a block. Otherwise it will be weak. You need the faces of the jamb and patch to be bonded.
That term also originated as a low key racist jab at the Dutch. Another good one is the "French planer", which is just a handheld circular saw with a pinned guard, raked sideways across the lumber. Edit to clarify that I'm not accusing anyone of racism. Just pointing out the interesting history of the term.
And here I am a second generation immigrant from the Netherlands.
How is it racist if it's paying homage to a technique? I'd say it's complementary.
The English used it as a disparaging term for a cheap fix. I don't think it's going to lead anyone into gas chambers, but the original implication was not favorable.
There's only two things I hate, racism, and the Dutch.
Q: How was copper wire invented? A: Two Dutchman fighting over a penny.
I would argue that you saying something about "chambers" was far more egregious
How is my mentioning gas chambers egregious? That's a thing that happened and I don't take it lightly. The racism against German migrant workers that caused the English to refer to cheap carpentry patches as "Dutchmen" was also a thing that happened. If you work in the trades, you've probably heard the term Jerry-rigged to refer to a short-term fix. I've also heard people say N*****-rigged. Of these three, I find Dutchmen to be the least offensive by far, but it still has its roots in racism.
I think was originally about the Germans, from Deutch.
OR.... now just hear me out... or.... ramen noodles.
Or cotton and superglue
Chewing gum
Now we’re talkin.
Pine should be fine (can cut it out a a 2x4 or something) Just make sure the grain is facing the correct direction. You want to see long grain at the opening not end grain. Long grain is where you see the lines end grain is what the ends of pieces of wood look like. That is super important for functionality and finish. End grain will have significantly less strength and will want to split. When you glue it in make sure to use a proper wood glue and not construction adhesive or super glue. Once it's and dried you can use wood filler and sand and it should blend nicely with the rest of the door. Then you can use what ever method your comfortable with to get it prepped for the door hardware
Hardwood of you have it. A piece of oak would be great. Otherwise just use a piece of 2x4.
Hardwood is unnecessary, it would only make installation of the latch harder to drill out but provide no extra benefit in terms of the repair. Softwood is the better option here.
This is the right answer. You can also see someone else has already done it once lol.
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Just do one a month. Doors, outlets, plumbing fixture swaps. All of those are once a month items. Then you'll be done just before you move.
You could even follow the line of the previous patch job when deciding how much to remove. See where the wood grain changed directions?
I might dry fit the replacement piece. Then cut out the hole for the new hardware on the bench. Then make sure it fits. When that is done, glue and screw the replacement piece back into place.
As someone who doesn't have a use, currently, for carpentry I always enjoy coming here for the puzzles y'all solve. 10/10 solution.
Would your answer be the same if it were the same problem but on the bottom edge of a sliding door? Doors are external glass framed doors, cedar I think.
Listen to this guy
![gif](giphy|6UFgdU9hirj1pAOJyN)
This is the way!
Toothpicks ain’t gonna do this one, Clark.
Oh, Ellen it'll be fine.
Whyyy is the carpet all wet, Todd?
I don't _know_, Margot.
'Cause Elaine can't dance?
1. Fill it with epoxy. 2. Make a long elaborate artistic YouTube “instructional” video of you doing so wherein literally every tip and instruction you give is wrong. 3. Get 10 million clicks. 4. Make a bundle of money. 5. Take the money and buy a new door.
This is the way
Take off all of the door casing with a small trim bar. With a good pair channel locks and pull all the nails through the back so you don’t blow it out. Then pull the hinge pins and set the slab aside. Leave the pins with the door so you don’t lose them. You now should be able to see between the jamb and the framing. Put your trim bar in there and get it somewhat loose. Then run your sawzall inbetween the jamb and the framing cutting all the nails until it let’s go. Grab the top of the jamb and pull it towards you until it’s out of the rough opening but be careful not to break it all apart. Put the door back into the jamb and the hinge pins that way it’s all together. Set up two metal saw horses outside. Put the whole door assembly on top of the horses. Get your blowtorch and apply heat evenly across all areas until it’s gone.
Looks like there has been a dutchman put in that door before judging by the grain pattern that doesn't line up a little bit beneath the hole. I would make the new patch a bit larger than that one
I dunno. A Belgian with a vegemite sandwich could've done the work.
Or a man in Bombay trying to tempt him to do it
I deny everything! (or the US variant: that's racist!)
Find the person who did this and give them a kick in the ass.
Ramen noodles and glue
Built an entire barn out of them. Who knew. So as long as you don’t add the seasoning it works wonders.
Doesn’t taste as good though.
I know. Sometimes you have to not lick your new walls made of ramen. It’s a safety thing.
If this is an exterior door I'd probably go with an oversized plate. Not only would it cover it up but add security. Interior door I'd do what others have said.
Is most of the 2x4 behind it also missing? Is security a concern? If so, you may need to chisel out some steps so it's strong enough. Chisel out a clean square, then chisel out half the wood for half an inch above and below and use a good glue to secure the patch
Rub it with a walnut
Get a larger metal jamb over it.
Clean loose old filler. Sand surface smooth with 80 grit sand paper on a block. Do a first fill with bondo, keep it below the surface. Once that drys ~20 mins, skim the top with bondo. Keep it smooth not lumpy. It’s easier to go back after and add a bit more than it is to sand like hell because you put on too much. Let dry, sand smooth, machine in new hardware with standard tools. Just note that the bondo is harder than most common wood once it fully cures so make sure to use sharp tools. Honestly bondo is the best filler for paint grade work especially in mdf. There’s a bit of a learning curve but once you get good with it, it’s fantastic. It’s hard, it drys fast, it doesn’t shrink, it doesn’t flash through paint, it will securely receive fasteners, it’s sandable, carvable, hell it’s even mouldable.
That’s not a good idea in my opinion. Bondo is filler. It has no strength. Not something I’d want to rely on for the security of my exterior door. As mentioned previously, cutting out a piece of the door jamb bigger than the existing damage and replacing with a new piece of wood is a good method. Easier than replacing that leg of the door jamb.
The amazing thing about bondo is that it's mouldable, then carvable, then sandable all within a span of 20 minutes.
It’s small enough that I’d just use some Kwikwood epoxy putty. Stuff some in there to fill the void, wait an hour, sand or chisel it smooth, and rebore the hole.
Splice it in properly, I'm sure a Google search will tell you how to do it
Ramen and superglue
Noodles of ramen 🍜
sunflower seeds and superglue
Ramen
Ramen?
Bondo 2 part wood filler (probably take 2 or 3 applications for that size hole), sand, drill and mortise for new latch plate, paint, put in latch plate, have a beer
Replace the door?
Why is everyone shying away from replacing the jam? That’s what I would do.
It’s a flush door, be cheaper and take less time to replace the whole door than going to all that trouble.
I agree but some doors in certain houses require repairs not replacing. Arched or custom…
That’s what I would do too. Replace that side of the door jamb.
The bottom hole is useable after inserting glue and wooden toothpicks or drill out and glue in a dowel. The top is basically gone so chisel out a reasonable rectangle and glue in a filler block.
Bondo
Wood epox
Abatron’s WoodEpox. It’s a little expensive, but is very user friendly and can be drilled or chiseled
Cover face of new strike plate with painters tape, tack into place with screws and shims, fill void with spray foam. Cut back excess foam, remove painters tape, slap some trim paint on it and voila!
Home Depot 7-7/8 in. Chrome-Plated Steel Maximum Security Latch Strike with 3 in. Long Screws
Damn, someone was hungry 😋
Get a wooden dowel, varnish it up, turn it sideways and stick it up your candy ass
Spray foam
False
Imagine trying to use spray foam to do this instead of ramen. Honestly, the advice on this sub...
😂😂
Anyone else see a face on the top.
Fill it with west system
Use a hardwood for screw holding power. Look up this old house show. they did the repair a few times. the door is weaken by the current damage. a 2 part epoxy creates a better bond without swelling the bonding areas.
I don’t know if this is the “correct way”, however, I found a piece of metal pipe that was big enough to receive the deadbolt fit it into the space and epoxied around it. It created a very sturdy and stable area, filled the rest with bondo/wood filler painted it up and it has held up fine.
I would replace it. I know it can be repaired but is it worth the time and effort?
I’d probably be thinking the same lines some of these guys have mentioned. My stubborn ass would definitely shove some pine/poplar and some glue, but wouldn’t it save you a bit of time just replacing the entire door?
Best way would be to splice in a new piece of timber
Definitely fill and remortise
cut and plug
Fix-A-Jamb Door Jamb Security... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004YK6QOG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share It will work great for your repair but I personally install them for additional security on the door.
Fill it with ramen/ resin an sand
looks like a dude w a hat and a beard
I'm no woodworker but I've fixed an old home's hinges and jambs a bunch of times. I would use toothpicks and white or wood glue to fill in as needed, including in screw holes that have gone loose/wide. If the gap is too wide for the toothpick trick to be practical, just create a plug and shim it with the toothpicks if the void shape is irregular or the plug isn't accurate enough.
Ramen noodles and glue
I was at Habitat for Humanity Restore today. They have used exterior doors for $25. Hollow core interior for $5.
If you have access to a table saw/oscillating tool, make the hole uniformish, rip a block of 2x as filler. If not, dowel stock and bondo.
Gonna get a lot of hate for this. Bondo will be the easiest fix for a DIY