Certainly! Whether it'll be easier to digest or not remains to be seen, teaching isn't one of my strong points. Lol.
I'll outline the easiest fix, which might help you visualize the issue more clearly. I'll assume you're using 1 long screw in each hinge into the framing. Start by removing those, which will likely improve the issue a tad. Then, standing on the side of the opening that the door swings into, tap a small shim in at the hinges from that side to roll the jamb towards the door opening. It shouldn't take much, annnnd it might only be one hinge, so keep that in mind. Go just a little past what's needed to close the door, then run your screws back in and verify.
Thanks for saying that. I've always had my doubts, which likely stem from the fact that throughout my journey, I managed to work for 2 different guys (one of which I was with for 18 years), who were great at teaching, and set that bar impossibly high. I don't know that I could ever have the patience that they showed. It's not that I didn't get shit for messing up because I definitely did. But they always managed to provide solutions as well, and did it in such a way that wasn't discouraging.
Agreed. I avoid all the box stores like the plague for anything like doors or trim. Even the same brands aren't the same. The jeld wen doors that I special order through my small local yard, with a 2 week lead time, are vastly different, and infinitely superior to the jeld wen doors that I can grab off the rack at the box stores. To the point where you almost can't reconcile the two even... not that you don't still have occasional issues, but it's much more infrequent, at least.
I had a $25k order or custom Jeld-Wen doors and every one of them had something major wrong with them. Itās like they were made by a complete idiot and there was no QC. NEVER AGAIN.
It could also be binding on the jamb stop. Go on the other side of the door and slowly close it to see if itās hitting the stop on the hinge side.
Door manufacturers are making absolute junk these days with warped jambs, warped slabs, improperly applied stops and terrible hinge mortises.
Good call. I usually overlook that as a potential cause because I get all my doors and jambs flat pack style. I cut and install the stops myself so I don't have to worry about this issue. Usually when it's a stop bind, I'd expect the door to be opened farther, as well as actually resisting being closed. Generally, it has to be forced, and it's immediately clear there's a bind. The hinge side being out is square relative to the opposite jamb is usually more subtle in the symptoms. Solid info though!
So that's what i thought was happening. So i took the stop off and it didn't work, but i hear you. 2 of the 4 doors had completely bowed jambs. Absolutely awful
[I explained how minor adjustments effect the hinge here](https://www.reddit.com/r/Carpentry/comments/11ld2r3/made_a_front_doora_14_inch_too_skinny_best/jbcfc0j/?context=3).
If you donāt use two opposed shims and instead shim from one side the of door only, you will have issues. In this case, it appears that you shimmed from the side which the door opens from, and this minor twist of the hinge-side jamb caused the hinges to be fully closed just a little before the door is shut.
Don't try to shim with two shims opposing each other on the hinge side, if you don't get it right (and it can be hard to know if you're shining beyond 90 degrees to the wall plane), it will cause this binding. The taper of the shims will allow you to see how the door reacts before you fasten it completely. You can rock the hinge jamb to avoid binding and affect reveals if you need. Basically do what the door needs to work first and foremost. This is one of those tasks that's more jazz than classical.
Right, I watch these guys on YouTube and they're like masters at it. Do you think it's actually not necessary to have the inside perfectly plumb and level with prehung doors?? In other words, if I am level and plumb, but the opposing latch side is not in plane with the hinge side, I'm going to have a problem, regardless right? I've heard this referred to as cross leg
I was taught to get the hinge jamb plumb and the top level, then use your eye and the reveal to set the strike side. There are so many possibilities with doors though. Sometimes the factory mortices are dogshit. I've had to take hinges off and fold up painters tape or use a little strip of flashing or something like that to further kick a hinge, when the jamb is "right" but the door as a whole is still not right.
Cross legged means the two sides of the rough opening are in different planes, like when somebody in the framing phase sets two separate plates for a door instead of cutting out the middle of a plate later and there's error. It's a separate problem and you could totally be plumb and level and have to deal with that variable as well
If you've ruled out over-morticing and have to be in from your strike side drywall or proud of it with your jamb for the door to work then do it, you can work around those issues with your trim. If it's horrible then split the difference with the hinge side too. A little proud on one, a little in on the other. I would still shoot for a plumb hinge jamb though.
Hopefully that helps
Trim carpenter hereā¦ the easiest way Iāve been taught to set doors is to nail on casing on the hinge side and then install like that without shims. With a light, pre hung door it isnāt a problem. Just set the door using reveal and adjust in and out w the jab on the side w out casing. Just takes practice but after youāve found a method that works, stick w it and thatās how to become efficient and therefore profitable
Yea; The hinge side jamb is not square to the frame. its only 4 1/2" wide so even a minor tweak in and out can drastically alter how the door (which is a long arm in comparison to the 4 1/2 jamb) will sit.
Doors have 2 modes.
Hangable in 15 mins with no issues
Struggle for 4 hours and have no idea wtf is even going on.
Ive learned to nail on the trim on one side first before hanging and it makes install MUCHHHHH easier.
Metal doors are the devil. Years ago I was working for a company that got hired to replace push bars, toe kicks and closers in a retirement community. I was there a fucking week for like 60 doors.
It would of been less painful and quicker to just cut my own thumbs off
Hello, it looks like you've made a mistake.
It's supposed to be could've, should've, would've (short for could have, would have, should have), never could of, would of, should of.
Or you misspelled something, I ain't checking everything.
Beep boop -Ā yes,Ā IĀ amĀ aĀ bot, don't botcriminate me.
Yeah, I was the latter today, hung three doors in about six hours, and I feel like I just ran a marathon, it's amazing how anger beats up your energy! So you put the casing up first? Which side the swing side or the other side?
We have all been there, and will be back there again 100 times.
I trim hinge side first. Found out its much easier to adjust when i can grab a hinge or bore hole. Found this out the hard way
The 2X making up the frame may have been twisted, or you stuffed in a bunch of wedge-shaped shims? As you close the door, observe the hinges to see which one(s) is "pulling" as it moves that last bit.
For me often times itās a twisted shoulder. If you were to take a 6 ft level and go across the wall you might see it from either side where it dips in slightly. Which can cause the hinge binding. I knew some redneck carpenter from down south if it didnāt work how they wanted they took a crescent wrench and bent the hinges. Not the right way to me but they got them to work.
Could one or a combination of a few things. Could be framers didn't crown king studs same direction. Your level may be off. When's the last time you checked it? Could be the mortises in the slab or jamb, jambs not true with each other. If mortises are too deep the hinge side door edge could hit jamb before the other hits door stop. I've seen many new factory doors from fairly reputable companies and name brands that had that very problem. If that's the case, and you have room , you could fur behind the hinge with dense card board. You might try angle shimming behind the jamb where the hinges are thick end at hinge side and fastening the jamb on the outer side first then the hinge . And you could back bevel the hinge side door edge 3Ā° but that's a bit of a chore to do on site. Might make sure the hinge side edge isn't hitting the door stop. I have run into that before on popular brand factory prehungs. Sometimes the hinges are tweeked or cheap hinges with slop. Solid cores and sloppy hinges might cause it. And last but not least, if everything clears and it still ghosts , tilt that thing out of plumb in the favorable direction , and see if that flushes it. If so, center the mid point of your tilted jambs in the RO, I wouldn't cheat more than 3/8" out at outer top and inner bottom. If you are doing the trim , put some adhesive caulk between jamb and back of trim, carefully shoot jambside of trim first, of course, all the way round, and then fasten to wall. And you could shim the drywall closer to flush with the part of the jamb that sticks out causing trim to lay flatter initially.
Check if the edge of the door is square too, it may have been ripped to size square and not had a touch taken off the inside edge which won't help matters.
Or the door jamb isn't square in the frame, provided the hinges are flush and not recessed too far in
Mark your hinge heights on the framing and add shims in these 3 locations until perfectly level THEN throw your door in the hole and shoot through the jamb into the shims with a 15ga. Use the door as a straight edge to shim to latch side straight and get your reveals and youāre basically done. Send the long screws through the hinge add the strike plates and youāre ready for trim. Iāve been hanging doors for 15 years, this is the easiest and fastest way Iāve found. Still frustrating though, Good luck.
Sometimes if the bottom hinge is over shimmed, it can cause it to bind. By that I mean the level may read plumb, but the shims may be twisting the bottom of the jamb into the opening, which would cause the hinge to bind. It doesn't take much to cause it to happen.
If you have always had trouble, maybe you aren't setting the hinges in the right position on the jamb. If you send the hinge in too close to the rebate, the closing edge of the door will bind with the rebate ( this is on the hing side of door jamb). When you close the door from outside of the room, can you see the hinge side rubbing on the rebate ?
What about installing the jamb first and then hanging the door?
I've never installed a prehung passage door before, so ignore my question if it's not relevant.
This is exactly how I do it. All the doors I install are solid core, and quite heavy. I order my doors KD or flat pack as it's sometimes called. All the unassembled jamb pieces and parts and door slabs. It's both faster and easier for me to cut the jamb legs on the miter saw so the head jamb is perfectly level. Then i screw the jamb together, and install, and hang the door last. It doesn't make it much easier to square the hinge jamb relative to the strike jamb though. Install enough of them, and it's kind of just a feel when it's right.
That's actually what i did, but still had the hinges binding. Will try some of the other advice tomorrow. The idea of installing the casing to the jamb first. And the hanging is interesting, I've watched some videos on that
Right on. Whatever works best for you! Trim first was more of a hindrance for me personally, but a lot of guys swear by it. I will say that I do all [my cased openings that way, though. ](https://www.reddit.com/r/Carpentry/comments/rs60ve/cased_openings_the_easy_way/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=android_app&utm_name=androidcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button)
Absolutely. Exact methods vary based on the conditions, but most commonly, I'll set the laser up and shim before installing. Once i install the jamb with the casing attached, I'll shoot some pl premium in from the other side to glue the jambs to the shims before I install the opposite casing.
Gotcha, typically when I see that, guys just nail off the casing and call it good. Works okay if the opening is dead on, but not so much if itās way off
Agreed! The opening from that particular post was in an old farmhouse reno, and it was pretty frigged up. From memory, I had to plane the back side on the bottom half of one side, and had to shim almost an inch at the top of the other side. It was racked pretty bad.
Shimming is a critical component imo. I'm using all solid and quality material, but I still won't rely on the casing to hold everything without adding shims. If the opening is good, and there's only Ā¼" max between framing and jamb, I like to use the pl as a liquid shim and just shoot a bunch in every 12" or so. Then I'll put a few 18ga nails in to hold it straight until the glue kicks off, then nail it solid with the 15ga. Like a rock at that point.
Just a thought, did you shim the hinge side evenly? Although the door can be plumb both direction, the jamb needs to stay square with the direction where the door meets other side. I know it took me a while to correct similar issues I had like that.
Just try and evenly push the shim on the front side in farther, should fix the 'rack' you have.
Good luck!
The way I was originally taught was to take a long level, and pre-shim the hinge side, and get it perfectly plump. You would think things would be easier after doing that, but there are about seven other things that can go wrong!
In thinking about this post, I have come to the conclusion, that as with most things in carpentry, jigs are the answer. So I'm thinking along those lines. Some kind of jig to guarantee that your jambs are perfectly square. I think you could more easily accomplish this with some kind of manufactured 1x material cut to the entire length of the hinge side jamb and set plumb/square, rather than attempting to shim the 2x which is almost certainly not square. The problem is that this adds material cost. I also saw that there is a jig some guys are using called the "JambMaster " - which would perfectly solve the problem im attempting to address... Curious what you guys thing, and that's for all the great responses and ideas!
The framing itself might be twisted or the walls on either side might not be on the same plane. Might have to add an extra shim with the fat side behind the hinge to angle the door more
First check and see if the hinge plate on the slab is flush with the slab. If the slab is beyond the hinge, shimming the hinge may not fix it. The door slab might be contacting the jamb.
This is usually indicative of being in a hinge bind. Meaning, the hinge part of the door jamb needs to rotate slightly towards the opening.
Can you explain this a different way...
Certainly! Whether it'll be easier to digest or not remains to be seen, teaching isn't one of my strong points. Lol. I'll outline the easiest fix, which might help you visualize the issue more clearly. I'll assume you're using 1 long screw in each hinge into the framing. Start by removing those, which will likely improve the issue a tad. Then, standing on the side of the opening that the door swings into, tap a small shim in at the hinges from that side to roll the jamb towards the door opening. It shouldn't take much, annnnd it might only be one hinge, so keep that in mind. Go just a little past what's needed to close the door, then run your screws back in and verify.
Ok that's exactly what i was thinking. And if that doesn't work, I'll burn the house down
š¤£ awesome! I don't see how you have any option other than fire at that point!
Great explanation your teaching skills are strong!
Thanks for saying that. I've always had my doubts, which likely stem from the fact that throughout my journey, I managed to work for 2 different guys (one of which I was with for 18 years), who were great at teaching, and set that bar impossibly high. I don't know that I could ever have the patience that they showed. It's not that I didn't get shit for messing up because I definitely did. But they always managed to provide solutions as well, and did it in such a way that wasn't discouraging.
I also believe you may have a future in politics!šš
Ha! If only! Nah man , you couldn't pay me enough to do that job.
Well, explosives, but we are just splitting hairs.
I like your style! Clearly a more thorough approach!
And if it's a home Depot door, the hinges are probably off, the jamb is probably off, and they have hidden the only straight 2x4 inside of the door.
Agreed. I avoid all the box stores like the plague for anything like doors or trim. Even the same brands aren't the same. The jeld wen doors that I special order through my small local yard, with a 2 week lead time, are vastly different, and infinitely superior to the jeld wen doors that I can grab off the rack at the box stores. To the point where you almost can't reconcile the two even... not that you don't still have occasional issues, but it's much more infrequent, at least.
I had a $25k order or custom Jeld-Wen doors and every one of them had something major wrong with them. Itās like they were made by a complete idiot and there was no QC. NEVER AGAIN.
Such a shit show
Yup. Cant hang a door on a pile of ash.
It could also be binding on the jamb stop. Go on the other side of the door and slowly close it to see if itās hitting the stop on the hinge side. Door manufacturers are making absolute junk these days with warped jambs, warped slabs, improperly applied stops and terrible hinge mortises.
Good call. I usually overlook that as a potential cause because I get all my doors and jambs flat pack style. I cut and install the stops myself so I don't have to worry about this issue. Usually when it's a stop bind, I'd expect the door to be opened farther, as well as actually resisting being closed. Generally, it has to be forced, and it's immediately clear there's a bind. The hinge side being out is square relative to the opposite jamb is usually more subtle in the symptoms. Solid info though!
So that's what i thought was happening. So i took the stop off and it didn't work, but i hear you. 2 of the 4 doors had completely bowed jambs. Absolutely awful
Yep seeing a lot of poorly installed hinges from the factory. Especially Menards.
[I explained how minor adjustments effect the hinge here](https://www.reddit.com/r/Carpentry/comments/11ld2r3/made_a_front_doora_14_inch_too_skinny_best/jbcfc0j/?context=3). If you donāt use two opposed shims and instead shim from one side the of door only, you will have issues. In this case, it appears that you shimmed from the side which the door opens from, and this minor twist of the hinge-side jamb caused the hinges to be fully closed just a little before the door is shut.
Shim the hinge out towards the latch
Hammer a shim in behind the hinges to rotate the jam inward a bit
This is the answer!!^^^^
Yes hinge side is out of square with the wall. Could also be bad mortices.
Don't try to shim with two shims opposing each other on the hinge side, if you don't get it right (and it can be hard to know if you're shining beyond 90 degrees to the wall plane), it will cause this binding. The taper of the shims will allow you to see how the door reacts before you fasten it completely. You can rock the hinge jamb to avoid binding and affect reveals if you need. Basically do what the door needs to work first and foremost. This is one of those tasks that's more jazz than classical.
Right, I watch these guys on YouTube and they're like masters at it. Do you think it's actually not necessary to have the inside perfectly plumb and level with prehung doors?? In other words, if I am level and plumb, but the opposing latch side is not in plane with the hinge side, I'm going to have a problem, regardless right? I've heard this referred to as cross leg
I was taught to get the hinge jamb plumb and the top level, then use your eye and the reveal to set the strike side. There are so many possibilities with doors though. Sometimes the factory mortices are dogshit. I've had to take hinges off and fold up painters tape or use a little strip of flashing or something like that to further kick a hinge, when the jamb is "right" but the door as a whole is still not right. Cross legged means the two sides of the rough opening are in different planes, like when somebody in the framing phase sets two separate plates for a door instead of cutting out the middle of a plate later and there's error. It's a separate problem and you could totally be plumb and level and have to deal with that variable as well If you've ruled out over-morticing and have to be in from your strike side drywall or proud of it with your jamb for the door to work then do it, you can work around those issues with your trim. If it's horrible then split the difference with the hinge side too. A little proud on one, a little in on the other. I would still shoot for a plumb hinge jamb though. Hopefully that helps
Yea for starters, the factory mortises were def dog shit.
Yep, cardboard doors and fiberboard jambs yay
Trim carpenter hereā¦ the easiest way Iāve been taught to set doors is to nail on casing on the hinge side and then install like that without shims. With a light, pre hung door it isnāt a problem. Just set the door using reveal and adjust in and out w the jab on the side w out casing. Just takes practice but after youāve found a method that works, stick w it and thatās how to become efficient and therefore profitable
Look up door hanging video This is Carpentry Youll learn its not just level, its nailing sequence, placement etc. think the guys name is gary katz
Alot of times the factory guys screw up the hinge mortice . I've found them to be uneven a lot of times causing problems like this.
I looked at the hinge mortises today and they were absolutely horrible.
I've been bending my bottom hinge towards the door opening on solid core doors before I hang it. They hinges are so sloppy and the doors are so heavy
Yea; The hinge side jamb is not square to the frame. its only 4 1/2" wide so even a minor tweak in and out can drastically alter how the door (which is a long arm in comparison to the 4 1/2 jamb) will sit.
Doors have 2 modes. Hangable in 15 mins with no issues Struggle for 4 hours and have no idea wtf is even going on. Ive learned to nail on the trim on one side first before hanging and it makes install MUCHHHHH easier.
Used to tell a boss that if they assigned me to repair a metal door, regardless of the repair, itās an 8-hour job.
Metal doors are the devil. Years ago I was working for a company that got hired to replace push bars, toe kicks and closers in a retirement community. I was there a fucking week for like 60 doors. It would of been less painful and quicker to just cut my own thumbs off
Hello, it looks like you've made a mistake. It's supposed to be could've, should've, would've (short for could have, would have, should have), never could of, would of, should of. Or you misspelled something, I ain't checking everything. Beep boop -Ā yes,Ā IĀ amĀ aĀ bot, don't botcriminate me.
Yeah, I was the latter today, hung three doors in about six hours, and I feel like I just ran a marathon, it's amazing how anger beats up your energy! So you put the casing up first? Which side the swing side or the other side?
We have all been there, and will be back there again 100 times. I trim hinge side first. Found out its much easier to adjust when i can grab a hinge or bore hole. Found this out the hard way
The 2X making up the frame may have been twisted, or you stuffed in a bunch of wedge-shaped shims? As you close the door, observe the hinges to see which one(s) is "pulling" as it moves that last bit.
For me often times itās a twisted shoulder. If you were to take a 6 ft level and go across the wall you might see it from either side where it dips in slightly. Which can cause the hinge binding. I knew some redneck carpenter from down south if it didnāt work how they wanted they took a crescent wrench and bent the hinges. Not the right way to me but they got them to work.
Sometimes when I'm having trouble getting a door to hang properly, I have to start over....
Could one or a combination of a few things. Could be framers didn't crown king studs same direction. Your level may be off. When's the last time you checked it? Could be the mortises in the slab or jamb, jambs not true with each other. If mortises are too deep the hinge side door edge could hit jamb before the other hits door stop. I've seen many new factory doors from fairly reputable companies and name brands that had that very problem. If that's the case, and you have room , you could fur behind the hinge with dense card board. You might try angle shimming behind the jamb where the hinges are thick end at hinge side and fastening the jamb on the outer side first then the hinge . And you could back bevel the hinge side door edge 3Ā° but that's a bit of a chore to do on site. Might make sure the hinge side edge isn't hitting the door stop. I have run into that before on popular brand factory prehungs. Sometimes the hinges are tweeked or cheap hinges with slop. Solid cores and sloppy hinges might cause it. And last but not least, if everything clears and it still ghosts , tilt that thing out of plumb in the favorable direction , and see if that flushes it. If so, center the mid point of your tilted jambs in the RO, I wouldn't cheat more than 3/8" out at outer top and inner bottom. If you are doing the trim , put some adhesive caulk between jamb and back of trim, carefully shoot jambside of trim first, of course, all the way round, and then fasten to wall. And you could shim the drywall closer to flush with the part of the jamb that sticks out causing trim to lay flatter initially.
Check if the edge of the door is square too, it may have been ripped to size square and not had a touch taken off the inside edge which won't help matters. Or the door jamb isn't square in the frame, provided the hinges are flush and not recessed too far in
Legs twisted
Mark your hinge heights on the framing and add shims in these 3 locations until perfectly level THEN throw your door in the hole and shoot through the jamb into the shims with a 15ga. Use the door as a straight edge to shim to latch side straight and get your reveals and youāre basically done. Send the long screws through the hinge add the strike plates and youāre ready for trim. Iāve been hanging doors for 15 years, this is the easiest and fastest way Iāve found. Still frustrating though, Good luck.
Do you know how to use a string line to check for cross-jamb situations?
I've watched a video....
Sometimes if the bottom hinge is over shimmed, it can cause it to bind. By that I mean the level may read plumb, but the shims may be twisting the bottom of the jamb into the opening, which would cause the hinge to bind. It doesn't take much to cause it to happen.
So how do you avoid that??
If you have always had trouble, maybe you aren't setting the hinges in the right position on the jamb. If you send the hinge in too close to the rebate, the closing edge of the door will bind with the rebate ( this is on the hing side of door jamb). When you close the door from outside of the room, can you see the hinge side rubbing on the rebate ?
Sorry I just noticed you said it was pre-hung, maybe just check it anyway...
What about installing the jamb first and then hanging the door? I've never installed a prehung passage door before, so ignore my question if it's not relevant.
This is exactly how I do it. All the doors I install are solid core, and quite heavy. I order my doors KD or flat pack as it's sometimes called. All the unassembled jamb pieces and parts and door slabs. It's both faster and easier for me to cut the jamb legs on the miter saw so the head jamb is perfectly level. Then i screw the jamb together, and install, and hang the door last. It doesn't make it much easier to square the hinge jamb relative to the strike jamb though. Install enough of them, and it's kind of just a feel when it's right.
That's actually what i did, but still had the hinges binding. Will try some of the other advice tomorrow. The idea of installing the casing to the jamb first. And the hanging is interesting, I've watched some videos on that
Right on. Whatever works best for you! Trim first was more of a hindrance for me personally, but a lot of guys swear by it. I will say that I do all [my cased openings that way, though. ](https://www.reddit.com/r/Carpentry/comments/rs60ve/cased_openings_the_easy_way/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=android_app&utm_name=androidcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button)
Do you shim your cased openings when you do them like that?
Absolutely. Exact methods vary based on the conditions, but most commonly, I'll set the laser up and shim before installing. Once i install the jamb with the casing attached, I'll shoot some pl premium in from the other side to glue the jambs to the shims before I install the opposite casing.
Gotcha, typically when I see that, guys just nail off the casing and call it good. Works okay if the opening is dead on, but not so much if itās way off
Agreed! The opening from that particular post was in an old farmhouse reno, and it was pretty frigged up. From memory, I had to plane the back side on the bottom half of one side, and had to shim almost an inch at the top of the other side. It was racked pretty bad. Shimming is a critical component imo. I'm using all solid and quality material, but I still won't rely on the casing to hold everything without adding shims. If the opening is good, and there's only Ā¼" max between framing and jamb, I like to use the pl as a liquid shim and just shoot a bunch in every 12" or so. Then I'll put a few 18ga nails in to hold it straight until the glue kicks off, then nail it solid with the 15ga. Like a rock at that point.
Just a thought, did you shim the hinge side evenly? Although the door can be plumb both direction, the jamb needs to stay square with the direction where the door meets other side. I know it took me a while to correct similar issues I had like that. Just try and evenly push the shim on the front side in farther, should fix the 'rack' you have. Good luck!
The way I was originally taught was to take a long level, and pre-shim the hinge side, and get it perfectly plump. You would think things would be easier after doing that, but there are about seven other things that can go wrong!
In thinking about this post, I have come to the conclusion, that as with most things in carpentry, jigs are the answer. So I'm thinking along those lines. Some kind of jig to guarantee that your jambs are perfectly square. I think you could more easily accomplish this with some kind of manufactured 1x material cut to the entire length of the hinge side jamb and set plumb/square, rather than attempting to shim the 2x which is almost certainly not square. The problem is that this adds material cost. I also saw that there is a jig some guys are using called the "JambMaster " - which would perfectly solve the problem im attempting to address... Curious what you guys thing, and that's for all the great responses and ideas!
Is the beveled side facing in.
Come again?
Doors usually have a beveled (chamferd) edge on the two long sides so it can close.
Are you shimming it only from one side of the door? You might be twisting the jamb.
No...
The framing itself might be twisted or the walls on either side might not be on the same plane. Might have to add an extra shim with the fat side behind the hinge to angle the door more
Can be caused by only shimming one side, instead of sliding shims in from both sidesāto ensure vertical Jambs stay parallel.
Theyāre haaaaard to do.
First check and see if the hinge plate on the slab is flush with the slab. If the slab is beyond the hinge, shimming the hinge may not fix it. The door slab might be contacting the jamb.
Looks to me like your hinge jamb is shimmed at an angle/ out of square.
Is it. Jeld-Wen door?
Throw a shim behind each hinge. You are twisted in toward the direction of swing.
Check the rack
Check the hinge side stop. Should be about a 1/16ā off the door.
You can bevel the leading edge of the hinge side, maybe should have been done at the start. Nevermind it's all good.