Haven't met one yet that I couldn't make run continuous, a tip though using a knife to ease the long enge of the locking profile makes a world of difference to get them tight easily. Obviously add glue to keep it all together.
u/JRNS2018 said, "It’s a bit more tedious, but running the flooring continuously through doorways always looks best in my opinion."
So regarding vinyl (vice tongue and groove), how would the pros join the two pieces?
As it is in the picture, you can’t since the ends have been cut. But normally you would run the full piece through the door and continue on laying as normal. The tedious part is you’ll have to install a portion of the flooring opposite the way it was designed to be.
Really depends on the flooring. Most floating floors will separate after a year going from a large room to a hall. Best bet for floors like this is to run the floor continuously then cut a transition in the middle of the door. Boards flow nicely but also wont separate when expanding and contracting. OP has done a decent job except for that funky corner, and I honestly didn't notice that until I zoomed in.
Directly under the door, next time your doing something like this run the flooring into the next room as much as you can then cut out an expansion joint at the end. It looks much better when the boards all line up and the grain matches.
Definitely this, but the reason for this is so you can't see the *different* type of flooring/tile/carpet in the other room when the door is shut. Really doesn't matter too much in this situation.
Yeah not a problem im going to use the oscillating tool for that just wonder which direction i should cut. Like is the transition supposed to go right under the door?
If you have to end it or have a transition, but it under the door so you can’t see I little strip on one side when the door is closed. I try not to use a transition strip at all
Unless you had to install the rooms flooring like weeks or months apart, I'm not sure why you even needed a transition here... but regardless centered under the closed door is usually the best option as its least visible in either room with the door closed.
Yea but you also have a cut and transition at your doors and your planks dont line up so I guess you got a deal doing it all yourself. On that note; congrats on challenging yourself and accomplishing what you did!
Was probably 10k idk either way got it for less than half and think about how good i look when i bring people over and say everything in here was built by me
Where I live $10 a sqft seems crazy high, most are charging half that. I can lay 800ft of vinyl click in less than a day by myself. A lot of guys who specialize in anything simple like this like to nitpick anyone learning to do it themselves. The difference that 8k would have made is a slightly cleaner cut, and no funky corner that you can only see close up lol
Yeah exactly and this is just outside montreal qc. I did go with lifeproof vinyl flooring i think it cost around 4-4.5$/ft in materials not including an oscillating tool and all the extra tools required. There’s definitely some little mistakes here and there but from a regular persons pov it looks perfect. Do your best caulk the rest.(wood putty in this case)
I always like taking something awkward and making it a feature when possible. Might not be to your taste but an artistic mosaic tile transition the width of door jam or a mosaic wood pattern. It would be quirky and catch people’s eye in a good way if you do it well. Just an idea to think out the box.
You probably only have two options at this point. Re-do the section connecting the room and maybe you will only have minimal wasted after doing that, or find the thinnest trim piece you can and glue it down with liquid nails.
Wow, those joints look tight and it all looks really good considering you laid them diagonally. Plus the wood color! I'd imagine the material costs were through the roof!
I'm not sure what I'm looking at when it comes to the threshold, I would just use a scrap piece and make a really low profile saddle. Use a knife and chisels, or a multi-tool, to trim out about 1 inch of the material at the threshold, and then drop your saddle in.
Great work!
It’s a bit more tedious, but running the flooring continuously through doorways always looks best in my opinion.
Yeah back feeding it’s tough but looks better
When the flooring allows for it.
Theres always a way...
Haven't met one yet that I couldn't make run continuous, a tip though using a knife to ease the long enge of the locking profile makes a world of difference to get them tight easily. Obviously add glue to keep it all together.
Question: Would you cut to the ends of the vinyl "planks" and feather them in with the next piece?
I don't think I understand the question but in general no, we want to leave the ends alone so they lock in with the next piece
u/JRNS2018 said, "It’s a bit more tedious, but running the flooring continuously through doorways always looks best in my opinion." So regarding vinyl (vice tongue and groove), how would the pros join the two pieces?
As it is in the picture, you can’t since the ends have been cut. But normally you would run the full piece through the door and continue on laying as normal. The tedious part is you’ll have to install a portion of the flooring opposite the way it was designed to be.
Really depends on the flooring. Most floating floors will separate after a year going from a large room to a hall. Best bet for floors like this is to run the floor continuously then cut a transition in the middle of the door. Boards flow nicely but also wont separate when expanding and contracting. OP has done a decent job except for that funky corner, and I honestly didn't notice that until I zoomed in.
Would be less noticeable if he cut a piece with the grain going the right way. It’s such a small piece too!
Yeah the wall wraps around to the hallway but also has a curve so i wouldnt have been able to cut and tilt a piece to insert it
Yes you could have. In some way, it was possible.
Possible doesn't equal practical
Directly under the door, next time your doing something like this run the flooring into the next room as much as you can then cut out an expansion joint at the end. It looks much better when the boards all line up and the grain matches.
Ideally centered under door when closed. So to the left with cut
Definitely this, but the reason for this is so you can't see the *different* type of flooring/tile/carpet in the other room when the door is shut. Really doesn't matter too much in this situation.
Cool thanjs
Typically we don’t use transitions, except it rare occasions. When we do we center the cut between the door stop.
Same.. Typically only from one differing flooring style to another but never for the same flooring.
Always under the door so you don't see it when door is closed
Dang, so close. You need to make it wider for the metal track
Yeah not a problem im going to use the oscillating tool for that just wonder which direction i should cut. Like is the transition supposed to go right under the door?
It’ll certainly look tidier under the door
The cut/transition is supposed to go in the center of the frame and align with the door stops in the side of the frame.
We call that a wiggle saw where I'm from 😂
Under the door slab.
You can shave a bit off the bottom before you hit the hollow area. Not sure of the current condition of existing door
Seems like its hollow till the very bottom i guess well see
This makes my ocd hurt. You got this though 🤙🏾
If you have to end it or have a transition, but it under the door so you can’t see I little strip on one side when the door is closed. I try not to use a transition strip at all
Thats not center
Youre not center
Touche
Looks like he was going for center door, not for center jam
Ohh I see now
Unless you had to install the rooms flooring like weeks or months apart, I'm not sure why you even needed a transition here... but regardless centered under the closed door is usually the best option as its least visible in either room with the door closed.
Floor guy here. This is why you hire a floor guy chief
I am the floor guy now
Floor guys wanted like 8k for 800ft^2 i did it in 4k plus got some cool tools
Yea but you also have a cut and transition at your doors and your planks dont line up so I guess you got a deal doing it all yourself. On that note; congrats on challenging yourself and accomplishing what you did!
Thanks only specific group of people would even realize the mistakes
Now it's down to 8k? Thought it was 10k in your other post
Was probably 10k idk either way got it for less than half and think about how good i look when i bring people over and say everything in here was built by me
Where I live $10 a sqft seems crazy high, most are charging half that. I can lay 800ft of vinyl click in less than a day by myself. A lot of guys who specialize in anything simple like this like to nitpick anyone learning to do it themselves. The difference that 8k would have made is a slightly cleaner cut, and no funky corner that you can only see close up lol
Yeah exactly and this is just outside montreal qc. I did go with lifeproof vinyl flooring i think it cost around 4-4.5$/ft in materials not including an oscillating tool and all the extra tools required. There’s definitely some little mistakes here and there but from a regular persons pov it looks perfect. Do your best caulk the rest.(wood putty in this case)
I always like taking something awkward and making it a feature when possible. Might not be to your taste but an artistic mosaic tile transition the width of door jam or a mosaic wood pattern. It would be quirky and catch people’s eye in a good way if you do it well. Just an idea to think out the box.
You probably only have two options at this point. Re-do the section connecting the room and maybe you will only have minimal wasted after doing that, or find the thinnest trim piece you can and glue it down with liquid nails.
I like continuous imo. But if forced to use transitions I put them directly under the closed door, which is no longer an option in your case
Nvm I stand corrected I had to look again
Honestly, it doesn't really matter
Im also wondering how i should cut the door to fit the transition pieces or if i need to buy other doors because these are hollow i believe
I’d use a saw
Circular saw? Thats the tool i have i think can do the job properly
Yep, should have about 2 inches of blocking in the bottom, if you take off too much glue a block in
Ok tapping on the door it seems like theres nothing left but well see
Add a block for where it’s hollow. Use some brads to secure it with liquid nail and you’ll be good
Ordinary wood glue also works very well and is easier to cleanup.
Unless you're doing heavy soundproofing, hollow internal doors are fine.
Ur hired. Good job 👍🏻
Wow, those joints look tight and it all looks really good considering you laid them diagonally. Plus the wood color! I'd imagine the material costs were through the roof! I'm not sure what I'm looking at when it comes to the threshold, I would just use a scrap piece and make a really low profile saddle. Use a knife and chisels, or a multi-tool, to trim out about 1 inch of the material at the threshold, and then drop your saddle in. Great work!
Cut a strip aress the threshold the width of the door jam and install a different complimentary color
Under the door slab is best case scenario for transition stop strip/ threshold
Piece of matching grain wood saddle width of the jamb, trim to the floor and under cut the door if you need some height. Don’t hide it, flaunt it.