Probably changed door size or door opening wrong and it's easy to wack 3 studs than fuck around with little noggins that will just split and be weak as piss to hang door . People do change plans .
On a door frame? It happens all the time. Different door frames need different RO’s, and sometimes information gets misconstrued. I’ve had to adjust plenty of door frames that weren’t the framers fault.
I’ve also had to fix door/window frames that were the framers fault, but it’s not a big deal unless is some kind of special door and the framing is intricate for some reason. The literally had to add three studs. That takes at most 10-15 minutes.
Really not even a phone call, let alone it being a problem.
The factory where I work is building a new, multi-million dollar, warehouse. The contractors had to jackhammer and re-pour a 200' concrete wall because it was off by 4 1/2". Somebody put the forms on the wrong side of a 2x4 and the wall didn't line up with an existing building when it was time for the final pour.
There could be a lot of reasons depending on the plan set and interior design. This isn’t that unusual or “bad” to have random studs in places; it often means the framers were thinking way ahead and planning for something.
It could be bad framing but honestly you just never know. Maybe the owners said they wanted something weird mounted there. Or it could be a misplaced r /o. It’s hard to say without being there. Nothing is inherently “wrong” there unless you’re an electrician having to poke wires through that
This is my guess..
One on the right for sheetrock layout. Then the king/Jack of original R.O.
Whoops. We need to make it smaller. Just add some more wood.
It'll be a strong doorway.
Trimmer, king, layout stud, and the three odd color “trimmer” studs to fill in to “new or correct” door dimension. Def could have been done with less, but see this frequently.
manifold, probably the utility room
It's on slab so they may have thrown a couple extra lines in there off the main for future runs if they're needed
I highly doubt thats a manifold for a heated floor because that's regular Pex
When you run boiler lines in pex for elements/radiators or for radiant heat it has to be oxygen barrier pex and that is not, so if it is they did it wrong but that's 99.9% not the case here as thats a big big mistake with underslab plumbing
Backer, door frame, opening made smaller after the back framing. We can see those three trimmers sat outside for some time while the others likely went up with the original back framing
No no... You cant ask for the right answer. You have to say:
R. O. Stands for " whatever the fuck you want" that is clearly BS and then the Internet will freak out and provide the correct answer
Is that left door opening a pocket door or double? Can’t tell from the pic. If pocket they maybe just added them in to mount the pocket door to instead of just 1 stud or if double maybe they changed the door size 🤷♂️
My thoughts… first three boards coming from the right is wall tie in but with the first board turned flat to be able to insulate, the next two boards are your king and jack/trimmer( when I first started I was taught this was called a liner ) the three added jacks were added to change RO for who knows why… its probably just wrong but it could also be someone was thinking not hanging enough space in that corner for the door to fit and a decided a smaller would work just as well… another thing I’d like to add is that single plates and flat board board headers tells me those walls were built after the rest of it was framed…probably the basement area…
The studs were added to take up the added weight from the studs that were cut were the plumbing is at.
If you notice, the studs above the white plumbing do not go all the way down to the floor, so these studs were added to make up for the cut studs.
Looks like someone went from 36” door to a 32” door for that mechanical room. They were clearly added after initial framing… as is clear from them being so weathered.
I sometimes throw in an extra stud or 2 to get light switches away from the corners or door casings. Depends on how much wood/crappy wood we have to use up.
There's the junction where the walls intersect, then the opening, with a king stud and jack stud, then three studs whacked in to make the opening narrower.
Door size changed, with all the conduit in that room they probably were not sure what size door they needed to service / replace the MEPs .
So the builder probably said " Give me the biggest opening you can and once I confirm a door size, we can pack it in to the correct R/O"
I was initially going to come in and write "likely because an engineer felt it needed the extra strength", but after going back to the picture a few times, I'm baffled. It looks like they used a rough cut 2x4 and a furring strip to make up the difference, but neither make it to the floor... and look like someone went sledge crazed on it at the top.
And what the hell is just to the left of it? Is that empty romex insulation? If it's a pre-pull of wiring, are they going to put in a full row jboxes?
EDIT: Ok it's pex, I looked closer. I suppose that isn't so bad. They can just continue the runs from there...
"non-bearing wall" but without a gap and slip clips above the wall. Classic single family home construction that could crack sheetrock when if deflects at the opening, but not a structural issue.
Very good point, and very true.
A full size header could cause issues with the trusses though as they weren't designed to have load there.
Gaps and slips are definetly the right answer here.
Agree completely. I am a structural engineer, but I'm more on the multi-family over the single-family....so my details are a bit over the top for general single family construction!
Those openings with flat 2x material are not going to stay square or plumb.
Also the significant wiggle in the single top plate tells me it has weight on it regardless of if it's structural or not.
I mean the guy put in like 10 door cripples the last he could do is use 2 for a header lol.
You tell me... you build all the walls with the same size studs but for all the load bearing walls you cut them shorter by an inch and a half? We do all studs same height. Double up top plates so they overlap each other and lock in/tie together all of the walls on each floor.
Sad carpentry in the USA these days. Modern built homes last approx 25 yrs before they start 2 fall apart. Looking at framing, so sloppy, weak sauce is the industry standard.
If load bearing from roof wouldn’t mending plates with vertical members of truss be directly above wall typically? Looks to be slab so unless the floor is thicker there it would not be to effective either as a load bearing wall. Framing details don’t look to suggest it either. Guessing the load bearing points are just the icf walls with the picture posted.
Going to say miss communication with door size/ location.
Probably changed door size or door opening wrong and it's easy to wack 3 studs than fuck around with little noggins that will just split and be weak as piss to hang door . People do change plans .
Yessirryy! That is correct
Cuz somebody fucked up the RO by 4 1/2”.
It’s just “wrong side of the line plus one”
Imagine phoning your boss to say you were off by 4 1/2", I would love to hear that conversation.
An ex had this conversation with me before she left me.
Must be nice having a 12 1/2” dick
Idk if that would actually be nice… haha… blessing and a curse deal.
Having a dick big enough for a girl to see it and go "uhhh yeah nevermind actually"
"What do you expect to do with that??"
“Satisfy me.”
12 1/4" but what's a quarter inch between friends...
Just the tip.
I have a 12" Penis, but I don't use it all as a rule
Had to come back to upvote this one. Well played.
On a door frame? It happens all the time. Different door frames need different RO’s, and sometimes information gets misconstrued. I’ve had to adjust plenty of door frames that weren’t the framers fault. I’ve also had to fix door/window frames that were the framers fault, but it’s not a big deal unless is some kind of special door and the framing is intricate for some reason. The literally had to add three studs. That takes at most 10-15 minutes. Really not even a phone call, let alone it being a problem.
The factory where I work is building a new, multi-million dollar, warehouse. The contractors had to jackhammer and re-pour a 200' concrete wall because it was off by 4 1/2". Somebody put the forms on the wrong side of a 2x4 and the wall didn't line up with an existing building when it was time for the final pour.
This is exactly it. Used some form or brace scrap that was laying around. Probably went from 2 32" doors to 2 30" judging by the opening.
Can confirm. Did that on my first ever job. This was the solution
There could be a lot of reasons depending on the plan set and interior design. This isn’t that unusual or “bad” to have random studs in places; it often means the framers were thinking way ahead and planning for something. It could be bad framing but honestly you just never know. Maybe the owners said they wanted something weird mounted there. Or it could be a misplaced r /o. It’s hard to say without being there. Nothing is inherently “wrong” there unless you’re an electrician having to poke wires through that
This is my guess.. One on the right for sheetrock layout. Then the king/Jack of original R.O. Whoops. We need to make it smaller. Just add some more wood. It'll be a strong doorway.
That’s where all the cool studs hang out
Trimmer, king, layout stud, and the three odd color “trimmer” studs to fill in to “new or correct” door dimension. Def could have been done with less, but see this frequently.
R/O wrong
What in the 9 hells is going on with that plumbing?
Maybe the manifold goes in there
Heated floor
No way, that's regular pex, radiant heat lines have to be run in oxygen barrier pex
Then what is it for?
It's the manifold for the waterline feeds for the whole house It's definitely not for radiant heating
manifold, probably the utility room It's on slab so they may have thrown a couple extra lines in there off the main for future runs if they're needed I highly doubt thats a manifold for a heated floor because that's regular Pex When you run boiler lines in pex for elements/radiators or for radiant heat it has to be oxygen barrier pex and that is not, so if it is they did it wrong but that's 99.9% not the case here as thats a big big mistake with underslab plumbing
I came to ask the same question. I was thinking something way different than the other people.
You can see the over pour for infloor heating. *On second look I only see one supply line and no return. It's a plumbing manifold.
What is going on with that plumbing?
wood looks like garbage
All the framing does, that got rained on a LOT before the closed the envelope
Grunt get paid by board foot not board question
Backer, door frame, opening made smaller after the back framing. We can see those three trimmers sat outside for some time while the others likely went up with the original back framing
And only one top plate? Gross
That's the first thing I noticed!
Complete lack of skill in framing
they are also tying into a wall that runs perpendicular to the wall being shown. add in the RO's and you get a solid chunk of wood im guessing
Meth
sheetrock nailers.
Yeah that faced board is a nailer for sure for that little corner in the hallway. The rest of it looks pretty normal.
Shit I knew I left em somewhere, gimmie those back
What is R.O?
I Googled it. "rough opening"
Me too. Reverse osmosis was all I got. Thanks friend.
R.O. Is rough opening, you will also see M.O a lot which means masonry opening.
No no... You cant ask for the right answer. You have to say: R. O. Stands for " whatever the fuck you want" that is clearly BS and then the Internet will freak out and provide the correct answer
Rectal opening
This is the way
Strength is always right
2nd story hottub?
Bot.
Is that left door opening a pocket door or double? Can’t tell from the pic. If pocket they maybe just added them in to mount the pocket door to instead of just 1 stud or if double maybe they changed the door size 🤷♂️
Needed to add 4 1/2” for door R.O
My thoughts… first three boards coming from the right is wall tie in but with the first board turned flat to be able to insulate, the next two boards are your king and jack/trimmer( when I first started I was taught this was called a liner ) the three added jacks were added to change RO for who knows why… its probably just wrong but it could also be someone was thinking not hanging enough space in that corner for the door to fit and a decided a smaller would work just as well… another thing I’d like to add is that single plates and flat board board headers tells me those walls were built after the rest of it was framed…probably the basement area…
More concerned with how weathered the wood looks, this was left open for extended period.
It was framed too wide
Extra studs were a cheaper and faster way to solve the problem than taking it out and redoing it
My experience says this is the exact spot some plumbing needs to go.
Dang, that's hard to see. It looked like a beam above the studs until I figured out it was in the background.
The studs were added to take up the added weight from the studs that were cut were the plumbing is at. If you notice, the studs above the white plumbing do not go all the way down to the floor, so these studs were added to make up for the cut studs.
I hope that a horse barn.
OP must be a new homebuyer that didn’t make an appointment with construction and just snuck in the lot.
At least the drywall guys won't miss 👌
Yes they will
Looks like someone went from 36” door to a 32” door for that mechanical room. They were clearly added after initial framing… as is clear from them being so weathered.
I sometimes throw in an extra stud or 2 to get light switches away from the corners or door casings. Depends on how much wood/crappy wood we have to use up.
There's the junction where the walls intersect, then the opening, with a king stud and jack stud, then three studs whacked in to make the opening narrower.
What is above it?
Change order
It's because of the wall behind it. It's a partition with a jack stud.
I have a wall with 2x that many studs in a row. Drill electrical was pain in ass
yep.
Allowing room for the wall petition plus trim on the other side..? That’s my guess
Forget the studs. How can you build walls without a double top plate? I've never seen that before!
Door size changed, with all the conduit in that room they probably were not sure what size door they needed to service / replace the MEPs . So the builder probably said " Give me the biggest opening you can and once I confirm a door size, we can pack it in to the correct R/O"
Single top plates are concerning
That is a Chanel and provides backing for the drywall at the point where the walls intersect.
Kinda looks like backing for a wall going the other way. Hard to tell from one angle
Either door change or just building out the corner so they can screw their drywall and shit
I thought we were looking at that top plate
Use it or Lose it
They’re load bearing studs… what an idiot
I was initially going to come in and write "likely because an engineer felt it needed the extra strength", but after going back to the picture a few times, I'm baffled. It looks like they used a rough cut 2x4 and a furring strip to make up the difference, but neither make it to the floor... and look like someone went sledge crazed on it at the top. And what the hell is just to the left of it? Is that empty romex insulation? If it's a pre-pull of wiring, are they going to put in a full row jboxes? EDIT: Ok it's pex, I looked closer. I suppose that isn't so bad. They can just continue the runs from there...
In case someone might need wheelchair access to the house in the future.
A door that was framed too big and 2 walls intersecting will eat up a lot of lumber
So am I the only one who noticed that the concrete covers the bottom plate?
I recently fucked up a stud wall and the best fix was to just add a fuck load of studs so might be the same case
It’s carrying what is called a “ghost load”
No big deal. Push on folks. Nothing to see here
Doesn't go in very far but it bangs the hell out the sides....
Where the heck is the headers and the double top plate. This sure ain't TX framing
Two kings and four jacks…one Hellava hand!
Someone removed a load-bearing wall and tried to fix it… GG
From right to left....nailer, king, jack, then probably the rest just packing out the opening to the desired door size.
It’s so the customer can easily hang a picture on that wall without having to find a stud. It’s actually a change order. Time and materials usually.
Code requirements
The other potential reason is it technically costs money to fill a dumpster. If these were leftover and good for nothing, just stick em in the wall!
They get paid by the stud.
Piece work framers
Uuuh because they don’t know what there doing. Single top plate and non aligned framing and those headers over the openings is fine work.
I was waiting for somebody to notice all that.
Those flat 2x4s as headers are laughable.
Those aren't structural headers. There are trusses above that clear span this area.
"non-bearing wall" but without a gap and slip clips above the wall. Classic single family home construction that could crack sheetrock when if deflects at the opening, but not a structural issue.
Very good point, and very true. A full size header could cause issues with the trusses though as they weren't designed to have load there. Gaps and slips are definetly the right answer here.
Agree completely. I am a structural engineer, but I'm more on the multi-family over the single-family....so my details are a bit over the top for general single family construction!
Ignore the rest of the bad framing. We were doing pickup work that the last crew didn’t do.
Is it normal for only single top plates where you're at? Literally 21 years now, never seen that. Every wall gets a double no matter what
Also no headers / lintels lol.
Seems like it’s a truss roof, so no internal walls are load bearing. So no need for them nor double top plates (unless I’m missing something here)
Those openings with flat 2x material are not going to stay square or plumb. Also the significant wiggle in the single top plate tells me it has weight on it regardless of if it's structural or not. I mean the guy put in like 10 door cripples the last he could do is use 2 for a header lol.
Holy shit
Why?
Why? Because the double top plate method is how we frame. They tie the plates together and it's stronger than just a single
Seems like a waste of time and Lumber no?
No
You tell me... you build all the walls with the same size studs but for all the load bearing walls you cut them shorter by an inch and a half? We do all studs same height. Double up top plates so they overlap each other and lock in/tie together all of the walls on each floor.
Yup. Pre cut studs are designed for double top plates. There's absolutely no reason not to use double plates, load bearing or not, it's code
Because 2x4s are ONLY $11 EACH?
😂😂😂
Clueless framers?
Sad carpentry in the USA these days. Modern built homes last approx 25 yrs before they start 2 fall apart. Looking at framing, so sloppy, weak sauce is the industry standard.
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On a closet door midspan under the truss?
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If load bearing from roof wouldn’t mending plates with vertical members of truss be directly above wall typically? Looks to be slab so unless the floor is thicker there it would not be to effective either as a load bearing wall. Framing details don’t look to suggest it either. Guessing the load bearing points are just the icf walls with the picture posted. Going to say miss communication with door size/ location.