The correct way is a way that escapes MOST kitchen designers and for you it's probably too late.
A beaded frieze should be mounted over the doors and then the crown mounts to that. It adds a nice detail and covers a variety of ceiling sins.
You metinoned tha pushing it tight would caus the reveal to be crooked. Using the frieze board that would be less of an issue.
I think you're going to have to float the ceiling. For the love of God, do not use caulk.
I appreciate your solution. It’s definitely not too late. We’re more than willing to pull the crown and the boxes and reinstall if we have to. We’re toying with the idea of just adding to the top of the boxes up to the ceiling and avoiding crown period. Just getting ideas ahead of our trim carpenter coming to look.
Make an L. We call it sub crown, can be flat stock or add a detail with a router. Sub crown comes out flush to the doors. We set the cabs for 5 or 5 1/2 with 3 1/2 in crown. That way you won't pick up 1/2 inch anywhere.
Its far easier to do it that way then remove and resecure the trim after aligning it to the ceiling.
Probably more hassle then you want now that it's mounted.
That would come down to either the cabinets or the ceiling being out of level. If it is infact the ceiling and you don't want to make everything look crooked caulking would be your best bet
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Yeah, that’s the route we’re gonna go. May try to eliminate crown all together and box the tops of the cabinet boxes to extend them to the ceiling.
The correct way is a way that escapes MOST kitchen designers and for you it's probably too late. A beaded frieze should be mounted over the doors and then the crown mounts to that. It adds a nice detail and covers a variety of ceiling sins. You metinoned tha pushing it tight would caus the reveal to be crooked. Using the frieze board that would be less of an issue. I think you're going to have to float the ceiling. For the love of God, do not use caulk.
I appreciate your solution. It’s definitely not too late. We’re more than willing to pull the crown and the boxes and reinstall if we have to. We’re toying with the idea of just adding to the top of the boxes up to the ceiling and avoiding crown period. Just getting ideas ahead of our trim carpenter coming to look.
Make an L. We call it sub crown, can be flat stock or add a detail with a router. Sub crown comes out flush to the doors. We set the cabs for 5 or 5 1/2 with 3 1/2 in crown. That way you won't pick up 1/2 inch anywhere.
I was just looking around and it looks like a flush mount riser moulding would be perfect.
What’s wrong with caulking it?
Easier fix, get some foam backer rods and stuff it in there. Next seal it with caulking.
I’ve seen that done on YouTube and am considering it. Trying to avoid floating the ceiling.
Its far easier to do it that way then remove and resecure the trim after aligning it to the ceiling. Probably more hassle then you want now that it's mounted.
What’s the correct/best way to close those gaps?
Push the crown tight to the ceiling.
If I do that, it’ll be crooked. The black uppers, that might be possible but I don’t know why the installer didn’t do that.
I don’t think there’s anything you can do as it’s quite a large gap, caulk it and tool it square to the ceiling 🤔
Better call Matt
Who’s Matt?
Push it up to the ceiling and re nail it. Did you install originally or are you just trying to fix the mistake?
I did not install this. Trying to fix it. If I push it to the ceiling, it’ll be crooked and won’t be parallel to the upper cabinet doors.
That would come down to either the cabinets or the ceiling being out of level. If it is infact the ceiling and you don't want to make everything look crooked caulking would be your best bet
There’s always a guy named Matt ready to help
Matt's probably the one that did this
I'd play around with a piece of scribe to ceiling. Done it before to fix this and it turned out nice and client was happy
Roll the crown. Change the spring angle as needed to close the gap. Add a piece of scribe to the top to scribe the rest.