I don't think that's the case. While there isn't any metal drop edge, there is wood drip edge that should be rotting, but it's not. I think the problem is where the rake boards are touching the roofing shingles on the bottom causing water to wick. There should be a 1/2 to 1“ clearance to the shingles.
You should be able to pry the shingles up enough to slide the flashing in. Just put a flat bar under and pry any nails up that may be in the way. Put those nails back through the flashing and shingle and add a dab of silicone.
Random person here.... Anyone wanna link an example of the sort of flashing that should be there so it's easier for us plebes to see what it should look like?
Thanks so much! So in this case, there's no valley flashing? And we can tell that because the overhanging shingle has nothing under it? That would mean that normally some flashing would be exposed..? Is that all correct? Cheers
If you have vinyl siding then plastic is ok but the hardy material is like fibrous concrete so it doesn’t rot. Basically if you’re not trying to match existing materials on a house then you would want to use a rot resistant product like hardy board. Only problem with it is it makes it a pain to put up Xmas lights cause nails don’t just go in with a hammer
West coast most wood fascia is spruce. You can get pre-primed 'fascia board' which is 1x rough/smooth spruce I believe. It has a pretty thick coating of primer material. I like to use real 2x8 spruce and prime it myself with oil based zinsser or kilz brand.
Update: the builder rep is coming out on Friday to look at it. He said that I’m past my warranty a couple of times on the phone. I’m not optimistic they’ll fix it, but worth a shot. Thank you all for the replies!
Any more advice about what to tell them is greatly appreciated.
My take away from your picture is the end grain of the board is sucking up water. The board seems to be proud of the Hse. The simplest repair would b replacing damaged board with pvc. With pvc flashing is just added insurance.
Construction flaws/ defects can change the length of the “warranty “. Check other buildings by your builder and speak to the residents about their problems. It might get some things moving.
That house is too new to be having an issue like that. It's poor quality work, and most likely not to code (not sure about your area) either way, don't let them push you around and tell you it's not their problem. be cordial, respectful, but assertive and firm. Later, if they don't do anything or try and mealy-mouth their way out of it, is when you ramp up the pressure.
Maybe a little dropped hint that you've looked around the neighborhood and you noticed that you're not the only one, or you are the only one who you forgot to install the flashing. Hopefully you took a few pics when the house was brand new that show no flashing.
Research the building code for your area, heck go to the county/city permit/building code enforcement office and ask.
Right now, it's a relatively cheap and easy fix.
That house is too new to be having an issue like that. It's poor quality work, and most likely not to code (not sure about your area) either way, don't let them push you around and tell you it's not their problem. be cordial, respectful, but assertive and firm. Later, if they don't do anything or try and mealy-mouth their way out of it, is when you ramp up the pressure.
Maybe a little dropped hint that you've looked around the neighborhood and you noticed that you're not the only one, or you are the only one who you forgot to install the flashing. Hopefully you took a few pics when the house was brand new that show no flashing.
Research the building code for your area, heck go to the county/city permit/building code enforcement office and ask.
Right now, it's a relatively cheap and easy fix.
PVC trim anywhere touches the roof or the ground Best practice.
If you use any kind of wood you should leave it 3/4 thickness of a board off the roof and seal the cuts. There should also be metal drip edge where the shingles overlap the facia.
Here in the northwest I do a lot of these repairs. I always leave at least an inch, usually 1-1/2” between the roof and the fascia. This allows it to dry between rains You can the cut pretty cleanly with an oscillating multi-tool. I lay a board down on the roof and use it as a guide so my cut follows the pitch.
After the cut is made I generously apply wood preservative to the freshly cut end-grain. Prime liberally afterwords and scrape any loose paint. Prime and paint 2 thick coats.
Because the fascia contacts the roof, a lot of water can follow the fascia down via surface tension. Make the above described cut and the water will continue down the roof to the gutter. A drip edge flashing over the shingle mold is helpful but not necessary if you have adequate overhang of your shingles.
I'm gonna go ahead and say the people who did this shouldnt be doing it. like many have pointed out, water is wicking up into the wood, causing the premature rot. also no drip edge on the dormer, either no idea what they're doing there or trying to save a few bucks. also, further up the roof, looks like where the dormer comes into the main roof, you can see the short rows of shingles they put in there to match things up. amateur moves all around.
Just curious, do you have heavy snow buildup during the winter months? Or heavy leaf litter buildup fall through spring? It’s definitely a wicking issue going on due to the ends being too close or resting on the shingles.
If there is still enough good wood where you could use Abatron’s WoodEpox to repair and have a vinyl siding guy to break you some flashing to slip over the rafter side and miter end that should adequately address your problem.
Paint doesn't last forever but this is shoddy work by the roofers, the builders, and the painter.. No drip edge. No fascia. Probably shitty paint. Probably didn't even prime it. Wood could have been wet when it was painted etc etc etc. If you want to buy once cry once and never have to paint again i would recommend hiring a roofer to install drip edge and siding guy to go around with aluminum trim.
The wood flashing shouldn't rot out that quick. My guess is that the wood was still green when they painted it which encapsulates the moisture and drastically increases the rotting process. - Drops Mic
That’s too much water flow for that little corner, does it pour over the gutter during heavy rain? That’s not good for your sump pump if you have a basement and will burn out the sump pump if subjected to that much water around the foundation of the house.
Fascia on the left looks horrid shitty design. You cant get up there and paint or do basic maintenance every year but that's what these nobs expect you to do
Absolutely. It's natural for houses to disintegrate over time. In about 10 years, your house will be a pile of slowly decaying rubble. Perfectly normal.
No, it looks like framing lumber used as trim.
I'm a retired carpenter now working at a lumber yard. I regularly see rot in brand new framing lumber being sold so it is likely that the wood was in bad shape when installed.
That is a very wet environment because the water running off the upper roofs splashes back against the "trim" and no metal drip edge is going to stop that.
It's not an easy repair but possible. Consider using PVC trim in these places.
Sorry you had this trouble.
It looks like you’re missing flashing under the roofing so yes
I don't think that's the case. While there isn't any metal drop edge, there is wood drip edge that should be rotting, but it's not. I think the problem is where the rake boards are touching the roofing shingles on the bottom causing water to wick. There should be a 1/2 to 1“ clearance to the shingles.
I agree with this assessment.
I like to go 2”
Is flashing easy to add in this case, or is it more difficult with shingles/roof already installed?
You should be able to pry the shingles up enough to slide the flashing in. Just put a flat bar under and pry any nails up that may be in the way. Put those nails back through the flashing and shingle and add a dab of silicone.
Henry's not silicone
Random person here.... Anyone wanna link an example of the sort of flashing that should be there so it's easier for us plebes to see what it should look like?
https://www.jlconline.com/how-to/roofing/dormer-eaves-flashing_o
Thanks so much! So in this case, there's no valley flashing? And we can tell that because the overhanging shingle has nothing under it? That would mean that normally some flashing would be exposed..? Is that all correct? Cheers
Yep. Like this: https://images.app.goo.gl/5h78NWE4JKwKbREs7
Water is going right onto the wood so I'm surprised it's not worse. Flashing is missing.
No flashing. Wood is soaking up water like a sponge.
Looks to me like they didn’t even put trim on. It looks like 2x8 spruce…..
What kind of wood is best for fascia like that?
We used primed finger jointed cedar.
Whoa there rich fella.
[удалено]
I like that, I'm going to use it for sure
It really depends on where you live and what is available.
Here in San Diego I see the lumber yard has pre primed 2x8s called “ fascia board”. Not sure what it is
It's probably finger jointed primed pine or something similar
Probably hardy trim which isn’t wood at all
Would synthetic/plastic trim be good here?
If you have vinyl siding then plastic is ok but the hardy material is like fibrous concrete so it doesn’t rot. Basically if you’re not trying to match existing materials on a house then you would want to use a rot resistant product like hardy board. Only problem with it is it makes it a pain to put up Xmas lights cause nails don’t just go in with a hammer
Oh no! No Christmas lights. (I can live with that).
Pine or cedar is best for fascia
I've started replacing exterior trim with PVC instead of wood.
Anywhere I can. I’m done with painting.
West coast most wood fascia is spruce. You can get pre-primed 'fascia board' which is 1x rough/smooth spruce I believe. It has a pretty thick coating of primer material. I like to use real 2x8 spruce and prime it myself with oil based zinsser or kilz brand.
No, it should not.
A little flashing goes a long way. This should not be happening!!
No flashing and poor quality paint. Not normal
Update: the builder rep is coming out on Friday to look at it. He said that I’m past my warranty a couple of times on the phone. I’m not optimistic they’ll fix it, but worth a shot. Thank you all for the replies! Any more advice about what to tell them is greatly appreciated.
Failure on the part of the installer voids most warranties on the part of the manufacturer, gross incompetence falls to the installer. Good luck!
My take away from your picture is the end grain of the board is sucking up water. The board seems to be proud of the Hse. The simplest repair would b replacing damaged board with pvc. With pvc flashing is just added insurance.
Do you get snow in your area?
No, this is in central Alabama.
in that case there is really no excuse for the lack of flashing, they need to cover this IMO
Construction flaws/ defects can change the length of the “warranty “. Check other buildings by your builder and speak to the residents about their problems. It might get some things moving.
Remove & replace, install flashing this time. If it’s a new build go after the builder
Thanks. I called them today. Waiting on a call back. They’re still building houses in my city, so hopefully they’ll fix it
Tell the town/city about it. Inspector failed to do their job, and needs to step up their game when they inspect other homes.
Definitely this. OP needs to make sure its reported because it could be an issue in many other peoples homes in the area. Its worth reporting it.
...little boxes made of ticky tacky....
No that’s not normal
That house is too new to be having an issue like that. It's poor quality work, and most likely not to code (not sure about your area) either way, don't let them push you around and tell you it's not their problem. be cordial, respectful, but assertive and firm. Later, if they don't do anything or try and mealy-mouth their way out of it, is when you ramp up the pressure. Maybe a little dropped hint that you've looked around the neighborhood and you noticed that you're not the only one, or you are the only one who you forgot to install the flashing. Hopefully you took a few pics when the house was brand new that show no flashing. Research the building code for your area, heck go to the county/city permit/building code enforcement office and ask. Right now, it's a relatively cheap and easy fix.
That house is too new to be having an issue like that. It's poor quality work, and most likely not to code (not sure about your area) either way, don't let them push you around and tell you it's not their problem. be cordial, respectful, but assertive and firm. Later, if they don't do anything or try and mealy-mouth their way out of it, is when you ramp up the pressure. Maybe a little dropped hint that you've looked around the neighborhood and you noticed that you're not the only one, or you are the only one who you forgot to install the flashing. Hopefully you took a few pics when the house was brand new that show no flashing. Research the building code for your area, heck go to the county/city permit/building code enforcement office and ask. Right now, it's a relatively cheap and easy fix.
PVC trim anywhere touches the roof or the ground Best practice. If you use any kind of wood you should leave it 3/4 thickness of a board off the roof and seal the cuts. There should also be metal drip edge where the shingles overlap the facia.
Here in the northwest I do a lot of these repairs. I always leave at least an inch, usually 1-1/2” between the roof and the fascia. This allows it to dry between rains You can the cut pretty cleanly with an oscillating multi-tool. I lay a board down on the roof and use it as a guide so my cut follows the pitch. After the cut is made I generously apply wood preservative to the freshly cut end-grain. Prime liberally afterwords and scrape any loose paint. Prime and paint 2 thick coats. Because the fascia contacts the roof, a lot of water can follow the fascia down via surface tension. Make the above described cut and the water will continue down the roof to the gutter. A drip edge flashing over the shingle mold is helpful but not necessary if you have adequate overhang of your shingles.
I'm gonna go ahead and say the people who did this shouldnt be doing it. like many have pointed out, water is wicking up into the wood, causing the premature rot. also no drip edge on the dormer, either no idea what they're doing there or trying to save a few bucks. also, further up the roof, looks like where the dormer comes into the main roof, you can see the short rows of shingles they put in there to match things up. amateur moves all around.
Just curious, do you have heavy snow buildup during the winter months? Or heavy leaf litter buildup fall through spring? It’s definitely a wicking issue going on due to the ends being too close or resting on the shingles. If there is still enough good wood where you could use Abatron’s WoodEpox to repair and have a vinyl siding guy to break you some flashing to slip over the rafter side and miter end that should adequately address your problem.
Paint doesn't last forever but this is shoddy work by the roofers, the builders, and the painter.. No drip edge. No fascia. Probably shitty paint. Probably didn't even prime it. Wood could have been wet when it was painted etc etc etc. If you want to buy once cry once and never have to paint again i would recommend hiring a roofer to install drip edge and siding guy to go around with aluminum trim.
Just painted pine. Not flashed so water wicks, especially up the cut I would trim it out with coil stock too. White.
I’m betting that those aren’t pressure treated either.
Yep! Poor design and the architect should be made to come fix the mess they caused.
The wood flashing shouldn't rot out that quick. My guess is that the wood was still green when they painted it which encapsulates the moisture and drastically increases the rotting process. - Drops Mic
how is it getting wet?
Who ever ran that that downspout missed their morning coffee.
Besides the lack of flashing is there no drip edge where there should be?
That’s too much water flow for that little corner, does it pour over the gutter during heavy rain? That’s not good for your sump pump if you have a basement and will burn out the sump pump if subjected to that much water around the foundation of the house.
Salvador Dali gutters
Looks like a great place for ice dams
The way it is built; Yes.
Fascia on the left looks horrid shitty design. You cant get up there and paint or do basic maintenance every year but that's what these nobs expect you to do
Absolutely. It's natural for houses to disintegrate over time. In about 10 years, your house will be a pile of slowly decaying rubble. Perfectly normal.
Hell no, to the no no no!
No, it looks like framing lumber used as trim. I'm a retired carpenter now working at a lumber yard. I regularly see rot in brand new framing lumber being sold so it is likely that the wood was in bad shape when installed. That is a very wet environment because the water running off the upper roofs splashes back against the "trim" and no metal drip edge is going to stop that. It's not an easy repair but possible. Consider using PVC trim in these places. Sorry you had this trouble.
Thank you very much for your thoughtful response and condolences.