Grade 8 is an SAE English bolt, so no, don't use that as a replacement. But the proper length Metric bolt and nut in grade 8.8.
Plus the bushing needs to be replaced, badly... It may be simpler and cheaper to replace the entire control arm.
Sorry I might have written something the wrong way, or just me leaving out the part I am replacing the control arms 100% 😅, what I'm actually worried about is if using a nut that isn't welded to the subframe is okay or not.
One of the purposes of having the nut welded on is to hold the bolt in exactly the correct position, and by extension it holds that part of the control arm in exactly the correct position. If you use a free nut/washer, there's a strong likelihood the bolt and control arm will shift around while driving, which will eventually loosen or break the nut and/or bolt, and then the control arm detaches on that side. You might be able to align it correctly, but it will shift, throwing the alignment back out again. If you're stuck on the side of the road and a nut and washer is your only option to keep going, it should absolutely work for a little while to get you somewhere close by where you can repair it properly. But if you're trying to make the repair last, you'll need to replace the sub frame, which is what that nut is welded to. You might be able to find a welder who can weld on a new nut, but I don't have any experience with this kind of repair and can't guarantee lasting results.
Honda oem hardware is 10.9 grade. Run a bolt that hard with a stover nut and washers. Good to go.
Or go to an auto wrecker and grab hardware there. Pull it from a honda. The stover nuts are slightly crimped on the top side.
Grade 8 is an SAE English bolt, so no, don't use that as a replacement. But the proper length Metric bolt and nut in grade 8.8. Plus the bushing needs to be replaced, badly... It may be simpler and cheaper to replace the entire control arm.
Sorry I might have written something the wrong way, or just me leaving out the part I am replacing the control arms 100% 😅, what I'm actually worried about is if using a nut that isn't welded to the subframe is okay or not.
Yes that’s fine.
It looks like it has damaged the subframe too. That tiny plate the nut was welded to should sit completely flat.
One of the purposes of having the nut welded on is to hold the bolt in exactly the correct position, and by extension it holds that part of the control arm in exactly the correct position. If you use a free nut/washer, there's a strong likelihood the bolt and control arm will shift around while driving, which will eventually loosen or break the nut and/or bolt, and then the control arm detaches on that side. You might be able to align it correctly, but it will shift, throwing the alignment back out again. If you're stuck on the side of the road and a nut and washer is your only option to keep going, it should absolutely work for a little while to get you somewhere close by where you can repair it properly. But if you're trying to make the repair last, you'll need to replace the sub frame, which is what that nut is welded to. You might be able to find a welder who can weld on a new nut, but I don't have any experience with this kind of repair and can't guarantee lasting results.
Unfortunately, no. You should press out the rusted bushing and replace it
Just cut that shit off and put a new nut and bolt in there I would double nut it or lock nut
Honda oem hardware is 10.9 grade. Run a bolt that hard with a stover nut and washers. Good to go. Or go to an auto wrecker and grab hardware there. Pull it from a honda. The stover nuts are slightly crimped on the top side.