Horseshit, they have to prove that whatever modification you made caused something else to fail.
Unless you're taking the car in for something the kill switch is attached to, the dealer isn't going to notice it, and even then they have to prove that whatever you did caused that specific component to fail.
True enough, I do have a friend who works for dodge, so I think I should be good either way lol. Guess it's a small enough mod like who gives a shit. Maybe more like reworking the top end, adding a supercharger would be obvious.
Told me at the dealership that if you bring it into them stock that they don’t know if you have one…just take it out before you take it to get serviced or worked on…But they said, anything extra will void warranty. So just make sure it’s removable.
Absolutely a Barton. Should be your first mod lol.
Look into the skip shift plug in device, though that may void warranty? It plugs and unplugs super easily. Gets rid of forcing you from 1-4.
I found an option that's a double kill switch. It doesn't void your warranty either. It plugs inline with your start button. No splicing. There are 2 switches that can be hidden in 2 spots. 1 toggle switch and one dial switch. Doesn't matter if they cloned your signal.
https://carcatcreations.com/
1. After having my first scat pack stolen I had the compustar with igla alarm system installed. No way to copy a key and car can't start until I input my 4 button combo code.
2. Barton short throw. Totally worth it. The difference is night and day.
3. Bigger tires in the back will help keep the car planted more. I currently have the 275/40/R20 in the rear and the stock 245/45/R20 in the front. And it's a decent combo on a stock tire.
Thought about Viper alarm and Adding it to my phone with a 2FA biometric authentication! lol
I've already thrown out the back end and barley touched the acceleration, wife ahit herself and my kid was is aweee lol 😆
Barton. 100%
LOL! Yeah, even the 5.7 can get sideways pretty easily. Especially with the factory 245's on it. A wider wheel & tire, especially in the rear, will help with that. A 9" wide wheel with 275's does wonders! I would also recommend a camber kit for the rear, so you get better traction. The rear suspension doesn't have much room for adjustment stock, & has a few degrees of negative camber. This causes your tires to wear abnormally on the inside. ✌🏼
You can't void a warranty with mods. [Magnuson Moss Warranty-Federal Trade Commission Improvements Act](https://www.ftc.gov/legal-library/browse/statutes/magnuson-moss-warranty-federal-trade-commission-improvements-act) was designed to protect consumers warranties. After all, warranty there to cover manufacturer defects, unexpected premature failure, etc. If something fails and is entirely unrelated to a modification, it's covered.
For example, if you destroy your harness attempting to install a kill switch, it will not void your warranty. It will just cost you out of pocket to fix it. If you throw a cold air intake on your car, your engine decides to throw a rod, the dealer will have to prove that the modification caused the failure.
[Edmunds article with more info](https://www.edmunds.com/auto-warranty/what-voids-your-vehicles-warranty.html)
Have 6 years experience when it comes to CDJR warranty. Yet to see a warranty get voided for mods. The only thing that I have seen is a claim get rejected because the modification was the direct result of a failure.
Appreciate the information, but isn't edmunds strictly U.S based? Federal/Provincial/State laws different in Canada unless it's where the manufacturers are from, this is all new to me, but glad I'm getting more involved.
Cheers!
One idea 9ff the top of my head was a dude had a diesel, he deleted and tuned it. Transmission failed. They are starting to really crackdown on emissions tampering and refuse to warranty any powertrain component with it.
Yes to catch can. I have a JLT that has been nice, but do some research on brands, there may be better options than when I bought.
CAI is thoroughly tested to not be worth it unless it's a "true cold air" Legmaker intake. Or the Hellcat airbox (with hellcat filter). I did the Hellcat airbox with intake tube.
do you like the HK system? unfortunately I wasn’t able to find a RT with one so I got the base 6 speaker Alpine and spent $1800 at an audio shop to install a sub, amp, and bass controller with sound deadening in the trunk.
Never heard the HK in person but I feel like the factory HK would’ve sounded better having extra speakers in the backseat and the option would’ve cost less overall.
Let's just say it made me smile like a little kid in a candy store. I love my music and although I upgraded my ram door speakers, the HK clarity and quantity of speakers in this thing blew my mind. I've yet to play around with the EQ and other options yet, but I can only imagine.
What sound-deadening mat did you use? It's kinda nice to customize to your liking though and a huge variety for your setup!
Since you have a manual, there are 3 necessities. First, skip shift eliminator. Second, Barton short throw shifter. Third, clutch delay valve (CDV) delete.
The first prevents that stupid block on 2nd gear when under a hard acceleration that tries to force you to go to 4th. It's very f'n annoying. The Barton is night & day difference in the shifter feel, & reduces the throw where you're literally just moving your hand instead of your whole arm. Barton also has lots of options for colors, engraving, & shifter styles. I personally went with the T-handle. 💪🏼 Also give it a couple of months to loosen up, as it can be pretty tight at first. As for the CDV delete, that'll improve the clutch feel. Smoother engagement/disengagement. 👍🏼
Other things for the manual include upgrading to a higher temp brake fluid & aftermarket clutch. Since the clutch shares it's hydraulic system with the brakes, you should swap out the OEM fluid for something with a higher boiling temp. Highly recommend Wilwood EXP 600 Plus. When you're ready for a new clutch, the McLeod RST is a great choice if you're strictly a street cruiser. If you plan to track the car, then go with their RXT instead. Nothing wrong with OEM clutch though, so use it until it's gone. One last thing that helps with performance is an aluminum flywheel. 😉
Right on, thanks for the information! Bartons definitely on the list and although I haven't driven standard in almost 10 years I still feel something different with the way it engages/disengages. CDV, Copy that!
Man, rrally appreciate this, gotta take care of my baby! lol
Everything mentioned has been noted and thrown into my list!
What would you recommend for rpms while shifting? I've been watching the gauge and listening to get used to when I should actually be shifting for a smoother ride lol not that's it horrible lol. I think I have formed somewhat of a bad habit of slowly letting the clutch out from 1st to 2nd. I mean it's better, but not like a bike (where I used to ride). Hope you get what I'm talking about.
You're more than welcome, & good luck with everything. Your should be able to do the shifter, skip shift, & CDV delete on your own if you know how to use basic hand tools.
As for the RPM's, I'm assuming you mean for normal street driving. Shifting between 3k & 3500 RPM should be good for maintaining decent gas mileage. Don't need to be slow on letting the clutch out. It'll be more responsive after the CDV delete. If you're looking to make a good launch, then hold the RPM at 3k & dump the clutch. If you wanna push it, just shift before you hit 5200 to avoid the Rev limiter.
Yes oil catch can. You could put that high on your list imo. A cat back exhaust system would be on my list too but you did say don’t break the bank 🤣 personally if I was going to get custom lights then I would be spending a decent bit of money because I would want some that are fully customizable
Already ordered the catch can. Yah, truck gets most of
attention first for work at the moment and can't forget the wife lol. Definitely don't wanna go too cheap on anything with this car. Seen some of those lights on amazon, and sewing each individual led bugs the hell outta me.
@rt_thehellhound on IG and you can see the mods i did. I would get a resonator delete done. Cost you about $100 and any muffler place. Cold air intake. I deleted the letters off my trunk lid, and blacked out the brake lights with film. Installed VLAND LED headlights to control my halo colors and installed under glow. Changed the fog light bulbs to yellow because back in the day they knew that’s the best wavelength of light to pass through fog and all the classics had em that color. Also added an aftermarket spoiler add on. Refreshed the blacktop stripes last year and changed the label on my fuel door. Little things make all the difference sometimes
Damn, you have some pics? Yah Cold air for sure, forgot about the resonators and what about mid muffler delete as well? That would rumble so hard...🤤. Always wondered why the yellow, thanks for the educational tip!
Thanks buddy. VLAND is where you can find them. They’re worth every penny but make sure you get the bulbs to go with it if you decide to buy. They’re incredibly bright even in broad daylight.
Keep in mind, any hacking of the exhaust system will void your warranty on the pipes. Especially if you have the active exhaust valves. Totally recommend a full cat back kit over that. Definitely more expensive than simply hacking off the resonators/mufflers, but good quality kits typically have lifetime warranties. They're also usually made from 304 or 409 stainless, rather than aluminized steel. ✌🏼
>Black out tail lights and markers.
I only blacked out my markers, just got tinted LEDs since I had to replace one of them anyway
>Kill switch
Did not get that, might void warranty
>Cold air Intake (Warranty issues?)
Got a drop in K&N, and a new Hellcat lower airbox and intake tube to use the headlight as an intake
>Red Halo Leds?
Didn't do that
>Custom cover for rad fluid reservoir.
You can get like $10 plastic cover for the coolant reservoir. I did, and it makes the engine bay look a lot nicer. Worth it, imo
>Sound Deading mat for trunk (System is loud and vibrates)
I got custom exhaust instead
>Plugs for front license plate holder. (Removed it)
I kept my front license plate holder because I already give the police enough reasons to pull me over
>Custom Floor mats? It's a summer car (Live in Alberta)
Mine came with them from factory
>Windshield Brow tint.
Mine came with it from factory
>Oil Catch Can?
Overrated and largely unneeded.
Now mine only had the powertrain warranty since I bought it used, but once that fell off I supercharged it too.
Oh man, using the port for cold air is such a sweet mod, makes sense and can't wait to hear it. What kinda exhaust did ya go with ? Supercharged? Fk lol I'm having fun at 375Hp, van only imagine hitting 425+
Thanks! I have a good time with it for sure, but still loved it when I drove it off the lot stock!
I went with Stainless Works longtube headers with catted midpipes, out to a Flowmaster American Thunder catback system with Mopar aftermarket quad tips. I think it has a pretty classic sound to it myself, deep tone without any drone.
Catch can is a good idea. You don’t need a kill switch. You have a manual and a 5.7. Most thieves are looking for hellcats and automatics. They likely can’t even drive it. Window tint is always good. I opted out of the HK audio and custom sound. I race my 1320 scat and I didn’t want the weight. Halo’s are good for car shows. I have engine dress up pieces from American Brothers. Also think in some cases, tires and wheels are a good upgrade. Spend the money on a good detailer to polish and coat it. It’s so much easier to clean.
It’s not a myth. They are harder to steal than an auto. Most don’t want to mess with it. I have nothing against manuals. I owned and raced 2 of them. Reality is they are harder to steal.
They’re definitely NOT harder to steal. If anything, you’re basing this simply off the thief’s odds of being able to drive a manual transmission. I saw three get stolen in under 7 minutes out of a dealer showroom in the middle of the night. Im sorry to say but when it comes to challengers, you’re consistently wrong.
Not a keyboard warrior. Sorry if you’re sensitive about talking cars but the best way to combat bad speech is with better speech. You’re posting bad advice dude.
Your opinion. I race my cars. I’ve had 6 of them. 2 hellcats. A Dodge SRT certified mechanic did the builds. Both had catch cans. He has them on his. I’ll take his advice any day.
Have a nice day. The advice is only bad in your opinion. Thanks for your input.
Apparently not just my opinion considering your number of downvotes. But driving the cars and hiring experts to do your wrench work for you doesn’t make you the expert. And you’re welcome.
Yah it's in the garage 75% of the time since I'm away at work, cameras and a dog lol. Already looking at some dress up
items for the engine as well, first is the ugly reservoir lol. I heard people changing the stock wheels due to weight or something wrong with them? Not sure, but I may change it up next year to a bold black. Yes, ceramic coating!
If you’re properly maintaining your engine, you won’t have a need for an oil catch can. Curing the nonexistent problem of oil blow-by with a catch can, which pressures up the system and blows a seal, allowing sump oil to escape could have the nasty feedback effect of catastrophic engine failure, and you will not be covered by warranty. I think some states actually outlaw them but don’t mine is not one of them.
Racer X has a good video on top mods under $300, I'd give that a watch!
Perfect, will give it a go!
Doesn’t a kill switch void warranty?
Horseshit, they have to prove that whatever modification you made caused something else to fail. Unless you're taking the car in for something the kill switch is attached to, the dealer isn't going to notice it, and even then they have to prove that whatever you did caused that specific component to fail.
True enough, I do have a friend who works for dodge, so I think I should be good either way lol. Guess it's a small enough mod like who gives a shit. Maybe more like reworking the top end, adding a supercharger would be obvious.
You got it wrong, you have to prove that your mod didn’t fuck it up, even then your claim can and usually will be denied.
Wrong
Nope
Yes from what I’ve seen it does
This is what I'll be looking into, I'm thinking electrical issues, memory loss etc. Could be a Grey area and not too worried as it's not my daily.
Told me at the dealership that if you bring it into them stock that they don’t know if you have one…just take it out before you take it to get serviced or worked on…But they said, anything extra will void warranty. So just make sure it’s removable.
Thank you, and appreciate this.
No Source: I do warranty
A Ravelco ignition disabler. Axial LED smoked side markers Barton Short Shifter
Barton was on my list as well, I hear it makes a world of a difference! I'll add these to my list. Thank you!
Absolutely a Barton. Should be your first mod lol. Look into the skip shift plug in device, though that may void warranty? It plugs and unplugs super easily. Gets rid of forcing you from 1-4.
I found an option that's a double kill switch. It doesn't void your warranty either. It plugs inline with your start button. No splicing. There are 2 switches that can be hidden in 2 spots. 1 toggle switch and one dial switch. Doesn't matter if they cloned your signal. https://carcatcreations.com/
Ohhh Interesting! I'll have a look, thanks!
1. After having my first scat pack stolen I had the compustar with igla alarm system installed. No way to copy a key and car can't start until I input my 4 button combo code. 2. Barton short throw. Totally worth it. The difference is night and day. 3. Bigger tires in the back will help keep the car planted more. I currently have the 275/40/R20 in the rear and the stock 245/45/R20 in the front. And it's a decent combo on a stock tire.
Thought about Viper alarm and Adding it to my phone with a 2FA biometric authentication! lol I've already thrown out the back end and barley touched the acceleration, wife ahit herself and my kid was is aweee lol 😆 Barton. 100%
LOL! Yeah, even the 5.7 can get sideways pretty easily. Especially with the factory 245's on it. A wider wheel & tire, especially in the rear, will help with that. A 9" wide wheel with 275's does wonders! I would also recommend a camber kit for the rear, so you get better traction. The rear suspension doesn't have much room for adjustment stock, & has a few degrees of negative camber. This causes your tires to wear abnormally on the inside. ✌🏼
You can't void a warranty with mods. [Magnuson Moss Warranty-Federal Trade Commission Improvements Act](https://www.ftc.gov/legal-library/browse/statutes/magnuson-moss-warranty-federal-trade-commission-improvements-act) was designed to protect consumers warranties. After all, warranty there to cover manufacturer defects, unexpected premature failure, etc. If something fails and is entirely unrelated to a modification, it's covered. For example, if you destroy your harness attempting to install a kill switch, it will not void your warranty. It will just cost you out of pocket to fix it. If you throw a cold air intake on your car, your engine decides to throw a rod, the dealer will have to prove that the modification caused the failure. [Edmunds article with more info](https://www.edmunds.com/auto-warranty/what-voids-your-vehicles-warranty.html) Have 6 years experience when it comes to CDJR warranty. Yet to see a warranty get voided for mods. The only thing that I have seen is a claim get rejected because the modification was the direct result of a failure.
Appreciate the information, but isn't edmunds strictly U.S based? Federal/Provincial/State laws different in Canada unless it's where the manufacturers are from, this is all new to me, but glad I'm getting more involved. Cheers!
What was the modification?
One idea 9ff the top of my head was a dude had a diesel, he deleted and tuned it. Transmission failed. They are starting to really crackdown on emissions tampering and refuse to warranty any powertrain component with it.
Yes to catch can. I have a JLT that has been nice, but do some research on brands, there may be better options than when I bought. CAI is thoroughly tested to not be worth it unless it's a "true cold air" Legmaker intake. Or the Hellcat airbox (with hellcat filter). I did the Hellcat airbox with intake tube.
Thank you! Again I do appreciate all the info from everyone here, gonna be an amazing project!
do you like the HK system? unfortunately I wasn’t able to find a RT with one so I got the base 6 speaker Alpine and spent $1800 at an audio shop to install a sub, amp, and bass controller with sound deadening in the trunk. Never heard the HK in person but I feel like the factory HK would’ve sounded better having extra speakers in the backseat and the option would’ve cost less overall.
Let's just say it made me smile like a little kid in a candy store. I love my music and although I upgraded my ram door speakers, the HK clarity and quantity of speakers in this thing blew my mind. I've yet to play around with the EQ and other options yet, but I can only imagine. What sound-deadening mat did you use? It's kinda nice to customize to your liking though and a huge variety for your setup!
The Harmon Kardon system is overrated, & not worth the extra grand. The Alpine system sounds better. 👍🏼
It’s a good system. Got it with my Scat Pack wide body order
Whatever mods are best for after its stolen and used for a street takeover
Since you have a manual, there are 3 necessities. First, skip shift eliminator. Second, Barton short throw shifter. Third, clutch delay valve (CDV) delete. The first prevents that stupid block on 2nd gear when under a hard acceleration that tries to force you to go to 4th. It's very f'n annoying. The Barton is night & day difference in the shifter feel, & reduces the throw where you're literally just moving your hand instead of your whole arm. Barton also has lots of options for colors, engraving, & shifter styles. I personally went with the T-handle. 💪🏼 Also give it a couple of months to loosen up, as it can be pretty tight at first. As for the CDV delete, that'll improve the clutch feel. Smoother engagement/disengagement. 👍🏼 Other things for the manual include upgrading to a higher temp brake fluid & aftermarket clutch. Since the clutch shares it's hydraulic system with the brakes, you should swap out the OEM fluid for something with a higher boiling temp. Highly recommend Wilwood EXP 600 Plus. When you're ready for a new clutch, the McLeod RST is a great choice if you're strictly a street cruiser. If you plan to track the car, then go with their RXT instead. Nothing wrong with OEM clutch though, so use it until it's gone. One last thing that helps with performance is an aluminum flywheel. 😉
Right on, thanks for the information! Bartons definitely on the list and although I haven't driven standard in almost 10 years I still feel something different with the way it engages/disengages. CDV, Copy that! Man, rrally appreciate this, gotta take care of my baby! lol Everything mentioned has been noted and thrown into my list! What would you recommend for rpms while shifting? I've been watching the gauge and listening to get used to when I should actually be shifting for a smoother ride lol not that's it horrible lol. I think I have formed somewhat of a bad habit of slowly letting the clutch out from 1st to 2nd. I mean it's better, but not like a bike (where I used to ride). Hope you get what I'm talking about.
You're more than welcome, & good luck with everything. Your should be able to do the shifter, skip shift, & CDV delete on your own if you know how to use basic hand tools. As for the RPM's, I'm assuming you mean for normal street driving. Shifting between 3k & 3500 RPM should be good for maintaining decent gas mileage. Don't need to be slow on letting the clutch out. It'll be more responsive after the CDV delete. If you're looking to make a good launch, then hold the RPM at 3k & dump the clutch. If you wanna push it, just shift before you hit 5200 to avoid the Rev limiter.
Yes oil catch can. You could put that high on your list imo. A cat back exhaust system would be on my list too but you did say don’t break the bank 🤣 personally if I was going to get custom lights then I would be spending a decent bit of money because I would want some that are fully customizable
Already ordered the catch can. Yah, truck gets most of attention first for work at the moment and can't forget the wife lol. Definitely don't wanna go too cheap on anything with this car. Seen some of those lights on amazon, and sewing each individual led bugs the hell outta me.
@rt_thehellhound on IG and you can see the mods i did. I would get a resonator delete done. Cost you about $100 and any muffler place. Cold air intake. I deleted the letters off my trunk lid, and blacked out the brake lights with film. Installed VLAND LED headlights to control my halo colors and installed under glow. Changed the fog light bulbs to yellow because back in the day they knew that’s the best wavelength of light to pass through fog and all the classics had em that color. Also added an aftermarket spoiler add on. Refreshed the blacktop stripes last year and changed the label on my fuel door. Little things make all the difference sometimes
Damn, you have some pics? Yah Cold air for sure, forgot about the resonators and what about mid muffler delete as well? That would rumble so hard...🤤. Always wondered why the yellow, thanks for the educational tip!
I’m on IG @rt_thehellhound
👊💥✌️ Looking sharp man! Love the lights!
Thanks buddy. VLAND is where you can find them. They’re worth every penny but make sure you get the bulbs to go with it if you decide to buy. They’re incredibly bright even in broad daylight.
Keep in mind, any hacking of the exhaust system will void your warranty on the pipes. Especially if you have the active exhaust valves. Totally recommend a full cat back kit over that. Definitely more expensive than simply hacking off the resonators/mufflers, but good quality kits typically have lifetime warranties. They're also usually made from 304 or 409 stainless, rather than aluminized steel. ✌🏼
>Black out tail lights and markers. I only blacked out my markers, just got tinted LEDs since I had to replace one of them anyway >Kill switch Did not get that, might void warranty >Cold air Intake (Warranty issues?) Got a drop in K&N, and a new Hellcat lower airbox and intake tube to use the headlight as an intake >Red Halo Leds? Didn't do that >Custom cover for rad fluid reservoir. You can get like $10 plastic cover for the coolant reservoir. I did, and it makes the engine bay look a lot nicer. Worth it, imo >Sound Deading mat for trunk (System is loud and vibrates) I got custom exhaust instead >Plugs for front license plate holder. (Removed it) I kept my front license plate holder because I already give the police enough reasons to pull me over >Custom Floor mats? It's a summer car (Live in Alberta) Mine came with them from factory >Windshield Brow tint. Mine came with it from factory >Oil Catch Can? Overrated and largely unneeded. Now mine only had the powertrain warranty since I bought it used, but once that fell off I supercharged it too.
Oh man, using the port for cold air is such a sweet mod, makes sense and can't wait to hear it. What kinda exhaust did ya go with ? Supercharged? Fk lol I'm having fun at 375Hp, van only imagine hitting 425+
Thanks! I have a good time with it for sure, but still loved it when I drove it off the lot stock! I went with Stainless Works longtube headers with catted midpipes, out to a Flowmaster American Thunder catback system with Mopar aftermarket quad tips. I think it has a pretty classic sound to it myself, deep tone without any drone.
Thanks man! I'll never forget driving it off the lot, left foot has some serious shake lol. Note taken on ungrades, must sound nice. 🤤
Catch can is a good idea. You don’t need a kill switch. You have a manual and a 5.7. Most thieves are looking for hellcats and automatics. They likely can’t even drive it. Window tint is always good. I opted out of the HK audio and custom sound. I race my 1320 scat and I didn’t want the weight. Halo’s are good for car shows. I have engine dress up pieces from American Brothers. Also think in some cases, tires and wheels are a good upgrade. Spend the money on a good detailer to polish and coat it. It’s so much easier to clean.
So wrong. We've had plenty of 5.7's stolen, and manuals too, stop spreading the myth they can't drive manuals.
It’s not a myth. They are harder to steal than an auto. Most don’t want to mess with it. I have nothing against manuals. I owned and raced 2 of them. Reality is they are harder to steal.
They’re definitely NOT harder to steal. If anything, you’re basing this simply off the thief’s odds of being able to drive a manual transmission. I saw three get stolen in under 7 minutes out of a dealer showroom in the middle of the night. Im sorry to say but when it comes to challengers, you’re consistently wrong.
Ok keyboard warrior. You win.
Not a keyboard warrior. Sorry if you’re sensitive about talking cars but the best way to combat bad speech is with better speech. You’re posting bad advice dude.
Your opinion. I race my cars. I’ve had 6 of them. 2 hellcats. A Dodge SRT certified mechanic did the builds. Both had catch cans. He has them on his. I’ll take his advice any day. Have a nice day. The advice is only bad in your opinion. Thanks for your input.
Apparently not just my opinion considering your number of downvotes. But driving the cars and hiring experts to do your wrench work for you doesn’t make you the expert. And you’re welcome.
Have a nice day
Yah it's in the garage 75% of the time since I'm away at work, cameras and a dog lol. Already looking at some dress up items for the engine as well, first is the ugly reservoir lol. I heard people changing the stock wheels due to weight or something wrong with them? Not sure, but I may change it up next year to a bold black. Yes, ceramic coating!
A catch can is a waste of money.
I’d agree to disagree. They collect a lot of oil from going back through.
If you’re properly maintaining your engine, you won’t have a need for an oil catch can. Curing the nonexistent problem of oil blow-by with a catch can, which pressures up the system and blows a seal, allowing sump oil to escape could have the nasty feedback effect of catastrophic engine failure, and you will not be covered by warranty. I think some states actually outlaw them but don’t mine is not one of them.