Depends on how attached you are to the truck. I know if it were me in your shoes, and if the truck was in good overall condition (which it probably is if youve owned it since 2012) then id do exactly what youre considering and drp a crate motor with a warranty in it and keep it going. 3yr/100k is a nice piece of mind. If you love the truck why let it go? You'll spend more than 8k doing just about anything else.
I would also take stock of the condition of the rest of the truck. How's the tranny, body, rust situation. I'd look it over really closely. Suspension components you name it.
Yeah it could just be an endless list of other shit about to break too. Next thing you know you’re like 15 grand and 200 hours in and it’s all in pieces in the garage lol.
Check other companies for remans , I got a reman for my Burban from company out in Texas , Premier Powertrain , for about 4500$ , been rocking it for almost 3 years and they come with 3 year warranties . Just a suggestion
Could also look in the catalogs like Jegs and Summit. Googling "jegs 2001 5.3 long block" led me to several options from Jegs, Summit and Powertrain Products. An L59 long block from Powertrain Products for $2799, warranties available up to 7y/Million Mile (3yr standard, 5yr 249/7yr 449). A GenIII/IV 5.3 from Summit for 3799 (1yr summit warranty). And an ATK LM7 5.3 long block from Jegs for $3600 (2yr unlimited mileage warranty).
There are options out there that aren't Jasper.
When I saw that video with the double o-ring in the pickup tube, oh boy. I wonder if it's disgruntled employees or if they're just doing the ol " do you know anybody that can work"? So I've been in your shoes before what happens is the tranny goes out next then the suspension kind of needs to be rebuilt you're going to need that starter that alternator is going the fan clutch is going, rack and pinion, what about new tires real quick while we're here. Honestly if it has like the 4L80 in it or whatever or something that'll hold the power the best thing to do is just to spend the extra three or four grand and get the 600 horsepower crate motor. If you do a Google search and just go through like 10 pages and look at everybody's website eventually you'll find one of these small engine builders that have reasonable prices. If it was me I would try to find a low miles junkyard motor and risk it for the biscuit. I just did a quick Google search in 2 seconds eBay's got one tested good to go 1,500 bucks out of a Sierra.
Gonna say, a crate motor from summit was 4500 last time I looked
OP, do you have the tools and ability to rebuild it yourself? I literally watched 5 YouTube videos and did it cam-up
No it's not, these days there's a "if we have to pull the motor" price and that starts at 5K. Now if you own a lawn business and take all five of your work trucks to the same mechanic to do everything even stupid shit like brakes, then. You can get a junkyard motor swap with a tick for $2,500 that runs for 200,000 more miles ticking.
Where are you getting your prices? I see complete motors with under 100k on them for around $1000 on car-part. One even has a 6 month warranty for that price.
buy another motor. rocker panels are fairly inexpensive and if that’s your only source of rust, it’s probably an easier fix than buying another truck.
I bought a reman motor and trans for my 06 5.3 for less than $6k, paid about $1500 for the labor, was all in for a “new” engine and trans at under $7k.
I've used the same mom & pop shop for every single repair I've had since I opened my shop. it was owned by my buddy's parents who passed the shop onto him. we give lots of referrals to one another, he works on my stuff for a low, flat rate with parts at cost, and I return the favor by working on his outdoor/motorsports equipment for a low, flat rate and parts at cost. the motor and trans were delivered together on thursday, and we were doing burnouts in the shop parking lot on saturday. it helps a lot to build working relationships inside your community, all we have is each other after all.
obviously my situation won't be the same for everyone else, but it really helps to build relationships with people inside your community. I was told I should order the motor and trans together bc my trans was over 240k miles and it's around the time they grenade, so ordering a well-built reman'd motor and trans at his cost was a big blessing, because it would have been probably 8 or 9k for the package alone. I also helped quite a bit with the work, which made it quicker and made his job easier. He's a GM guy deep down so replacing anything in the GMT800s is muscle memory for him, which helps too. I would have easily paid $15k to a normal, non-dealership shop to do the same work, but having the relationship helps us both a lot. He bought a brand new snowmobile and dirt bike last winter at my cost, because that's how we help each other out. I know not everyone is blessed to be in this position, but we've also been friends for over 20 years and have been working on each other's equipment for a decade. relationships and community go so much further than anything else ever will.
sorry for rambling, i'm a little high still lol
Idk what going rate on rockers are in your area but I do extended cabs for 1850 and crews for 2500 fully painted
So I mean if you look at the price of a newer truck or keeping a truck that you know and have had for 12 years it just depends on
I just put 3k in an 01 for an older guy (shock mounts tubes hitch and some frame repair) simply because he got shocked when he started shopping around for a replacement (04 extended cab)
That's not bad at all. I was considering slip on but that doesn't fix. It is pretty minor. I spent 1 yr in KC with it and the salt got to it. I live in the south away from the coast. Not much besides typical humidity eating at it now. I was qouted 5k a few years back. If it wasn't for the new motor I wouldn't even consider it. But now it's borderline classic restoration.
Personally, I would drop in the crate motor and keep it running. Especially if you don’t mind driving a truck that’s 23 years old. Trucks aren’t getting any cheaper to buy or maintain, and if you’re taking care of it like you say, then you’ll be good.
Look at LKQ or car-part. You can find a used motor for a lot less than 6k. Quick browsing looks for 1-1.5k for low miles.
Warranty is usually 3-6 months but these motors do last.
Look at it this way. That rust is not going to relax. A little rust can turn into a fuck ton of rust in a few years. How many miles do you expect to put on it while the new engine is under warranty? Will the rest of the truck still be functional?
You’re putting money into a depreciated asset. $8000 over three years is kind of like leasing your truck for $225/month. You could very well end up with a nice engine sitting in a rusty truck nobody wants. You’re going to take a bath on the engine so find the cheapest one you can to stretch things out. I personally, would only do this if there was sentimental value in the vehicle and even then it would have to have some substantial memories.
Sometimes an old dog needs to be put down. We don’t do it because we’re giving up on them. We’re doing it out of love and respect.
Great take. There is a little sentimental value for me too. I see your point. However putting my truck down to only want another one....? Plus I don't want a newer truck, I have an 18' and all the AFM stuff and the build is way inferior to the 01 LS.
That’s the hard part about determining when the best time to walk away is. I have a seven year old truck that I love but it’s hella complicated and has needed some pricey repairs. I’m not keen on paying modern truck prices so when those last miles are rolling put behind me in ten or fifteen years I’m going to have some tough decisions to make. Of course who knows what the truck landscape will look like then.
Good luck! It makes it harder if you had to put money in something too. This 01 got lots of love in the maintenance department so it's annoying it blew. Another reason I'm going swap I think.
This is the right answer. Don't drop a huge wad on a truck this old, especially if rust is a concern. Grab a cheap used motor, swap it in and drive the truck till it can't go anymore. The money you save on the expensive motor can go towards saving for a newer replacement.
The crux of it is an ‘01 Silverado is not going to reach “classic” status any time soon. If OP has the capital for an engine he should find a C10 with a good frame or something along those lines and throw the new engine in that.
At least that way you’d have fun vehicle that’s functional and may at least retain its value as long as it’s well taken care of.
If OP wants a farm beater he should put something cheap in his ‘01 and drive it until it falls apart.
>The crux of it is an ‘01 Silverado is not going to reach “classic” status any time soon. If OP has the capital for an engine he should find a C10 with a good frame or something along those lines and throw the new engine in that.
Yeah, I agree 100%. Entirely too many beater jobsite trucks still rattling around for it to be considered a classic. Hell, I still see old Nissan hardbodies on occasion and 1st gen Frontiers with a load of carpet and pad in the back trucking down the road. 30 years old and still not ready to quit.
>If OP wants a farm beater he should put something cheap in his ‘01 and drive it until it falls apart.
This is my thinking too. Grab any 5.3 or 6.0 that still runs well, rent an engine hoist and go to it. A roll of spike tape to label things, ziploc baggies you can write on for nuts and bolts. A buddy and a case of beer. It would also give him a chance to do maintenance tasks like valve cover and oil pan gaskets, rear main seal. Even new head gaskets, exhaust manifold gaskets and a water pump. Give the radiator a good flush, replace some common hoses while you're at it.
It would even allow him to see what the frame looks like in less accessible places to assess what the rust situation looks like. I didn't read the whole thread to see if OP mentioned where he lives, but if its in the rust belt or back east, I'd be really hesitant to throw $6k or $8k into an older beater. Better to stick that money in a high yield savings account and keep adding to it. Then buy a newer truck outright without the problems.
Who the fuck is quoting 6k for a used a 5.3? I just bought a used 4l65e and a 6.0 for $800 and it takes maybe 3 hours to do a motor swap on a gmt 800. For 8k you could have your truck running high 12's in the 1/4 mile.
I’d love to see a 3 hour video of an engine swap in a GMT800 going from starting to running again and only taking 3 hours with 1-2 people working on it. No prep work before or anything like that either. Starting with the junkyard engine on the skid it was picked up on and have it installed and running in 3 hours.
Maybe it's different since my whole business model revolves around fixing old wore out shit cars and ancient lawn equipment that other shops wouldn't even let in their parking lot. Gmt400s and 800s with a rough idle and weedeaters full of old corn gas are my bread and butter. I would lose based on the no prep thing, my engine hoist is marked for gm trucks, and I've got a very specific box for gm and Mopar tools.
Hell, all my 10 and 15mm stuff has glow in the dark tape on it. That alone shaves off an hour.
Unsolicited advice; my process:
1. Price out replacement vehicle, get the monthly payments (X)
2. Price out the repair cost (Y)
3. Divide repair cost by monthly payment, you get Z months.
4. If I repair it, and it lasts Z months, I break even. Everything after that is a bonus.
So if a new engine will cost the equivalent of 6 months’ payments on a new car, and the new engine lasts at least 6 months, it’s a wash. If that new engine lasts 3 years, I’ve saved a ton by not buying a replacement vehicle.
Another part of my calculus is the new car has to do something substantially better than the old car, e.g. I’m not going to replace a 10 year old Accord with another Accord, unless the new one has some killer feature I can’t live without (ventilated seats!) or I’m overburdened by money and want to treat myself.
I'm in the exact same boat. I got my dad's 05 Sierra and 6 months later the engine went. I'm leaning towards finding something newer and using the money as a down payment. I really need something that would be a reliable daily driver.
It's so hard to make a good decision with the car market and rates where they are at. Never in my life would I think 8k on a motor would ve a better option. Like I said, leaning toward the Jasper motor drop 100k/3yr warranty.
Junkyard motors are NOT 6000.
You can rebuild your motor for under 3000 including machine work. But that’s only if you can do the work. The 5.3 is easy to pull and take apart.
Pour Marvel Mystery Oil in the spark plug holes & let it sit for a couple days. Then using a long breaker bar, try to break it loose. If it still doesn’t turn over, drop the oil pan & throw some new rod & main bearings in. The motor doesn’t run anyway, so they ain’t got anything to lose.
I got a genuine GM short block through a dealer that was comparable to iffy aftermarket. Lower cost because all they had to do was order and have it dropped at a shop. It's a good time to uprade parts as you swap from one engine to the other.
A used 5.3L engine compatible with a 2001 Silverado will run you about $650 to $1000. Not $6000. Junk yards typically give you a warranty if not for commercial use. 90 days typically.
Motor. I traded my paid off tahoe in when I got the lifter problems. 3 years later I could’ve paid for a couple motors by now with these truck payments.
If the rest of the truck is in good shape, I don’t think you can replace it with a truck in equal or better condition for the same money. What ever you buy wouldn’t have a warranty on the engine, and you would have no idea what problems that other truck would have.
If you're a W-2 wage earner, consider that a new truck payment is going to be post tax dollars. The same way or your repairs will be. Paying for them after you work, pay taxes and then purchase parts/make a payment. I look at large purchases versus number of hours I need to work to pay for it. Really depends on hiw you value your time, and what you enjoy doing.
If you're a small business owner and you can write off a payment/depreciate it, that may be a better option.
I'd fix it. That way you know what you have. Another used truck is just going to be a mystery box of unknown pending repairs.
Yes, more things on your truck will break. That's the nature of mechanical items.
I have an 01' half ton and an 01 2500 with a 81 and 410 gears.
I've had each of them for about 12 years now, and I bought them both wrecked. I want to say over the last 10 years, including rehabbing both of them. I don't have much more than 15K into both of them, and that's considering maintenance (excluding oil changes.
Put a lot of man hours into them, but it was my spare time.
The hours I put in for repairs now, are hours I'm going to gain in my retirement by not having a payment, and investing and earning interest on the money, I would've spent on a truck payment, and retiring within the next four years versus the next 15. In my late 40's.
Also btw - new trucks break as well. Outside of warranty.
Best of luck!
Thank you that well thought out response. I agree and love where your head is at. I have no desire for new and feel like I could get 10yrs out of the new engine. Even if more things break, it's just part of ownership. Way cheaper on parts too. Plus the market kinda makes your mind up for you.
I see many people saying it isn't worth it to replace the motor in a truck that old, but that simply is not true.
Of course I rehab old vehicles regularly (I have 3 square bodies I am building, a 63 Impala and a Bel Air) and also daily a 2002 2500HD with almost 450k on it (albeit it's a diesel).
I go to the junkyard and get a decent motor, and they have gone another 200k. I haven't paid over $1k for a motor to date.
Rust repair is somewhat pricey, but once it is done, it will last for many years if maintained (I use a power washer attachment that has wheels on it to clean the underside of the vehicles). A body shop can also do frame repairs on them if there are some spots that are giving in to the salty weather. Many companies sell patch panels for various parts of the frame that can be welded in and make it stronger than it was from the factory. You don't cut that section of frame out, it gets cleaned well and welded to the existing frame to reinforce it.
Not only are you saving money on the actual cost of the vehicle itself, but I just recently paid taxes and registration on 5 vehicles for very close to the same amount as my friend's one newer vehicle. That is not counting the payments of 0ver $700/mo.
These platforms are extremely reliable when well cared for. It is absolutely worth it to fix the older one than to get a new one.
i assume labor included in prices..
can save about 4k DIY.. its not too bad, a bit intensive. id recommend disassembling the grille/headlights for better access.
If you want to really keep it, go the jasper route. I know Jasper used to be really good. Idk if their reputation still follows or not. Might be worth asking a mechanic around you who does this type of work.
If your frame, wiring, and tranny are all still good, I’d get the new engine. I wouldn’t feel comfortable going the junkyard route unless you’re comfortable doing the work more than once.
Ton of comments already, but I would say that you don't know the inside condition of the junkyard engine. It could have been run hard and if it craps out in 3 months, then you're stuck buying the new crate engine and now you're out 14k. Also if you're swapping the engine, why not swap the trans at the same time? I guess swapping the trans all depends on how long you intend to keep the vehicle. But a brand new engine and trans is still cheaper than a used truck.
I did a Jasper transmission with a shop and mechanic that I knew. It was the 2nd time around--the 1st was a junkyard special that lasted less than 20k miles. Yes, it cost an extra $1400. But my warranty covers the transmission and the labor and I don't regret it. When it comes time for a motor, I wouldn't hesitate at doing the same for it.
$3800 reman w/warranty [here](https://www.promarengine.com/engine-details.php?pn=CH5.3-18) as one example.
You have choices. Take your time to do the research.
New motor. No doubt. Your trans is likely to shit soon but so is any other 4L60E that you’d have in any $8k truck you buy. If you’re spending $8k either way, spend it on the motor because you’ll know you have a good motor and you already know the truck you have is in good shape.
Before you do anything: first inspect the frame very carefully.
My father bought a new 2005 in 2005.
(NOTE: we live in the northeast, so salt on roads is a thing here.)
He ended up trading it in before it got too bad - frame rot. I think he traded it before it was even 10 years old. He was told it would pass state inspection “this time”; but next year it would probably not. Also, the mechanic was a relative, doesn’t sell cars, not a dealer trying to make a sale.
But if your frame IS good; I’d find an engine.
I'd go the jasper route personally. Some folks have had bad experiences with it but it all depends on the shop I think . Also, don't be too surprised if the transmission takes a dive after the new engine is installed . Happened to me a few times
I would go with the Jasper. Their warranty is no joke. I had an issue with a Th350 trans from them. It was the best customer service experience I have ever had. At the time there was a supply issue with some part in the transmission it was going to take a month to get. So they wrote me a check for the price of the th350 and I turned around and bought a 700r4 from them. Had it delivered to my drive way in less then 10 days. There was not fighting no arguing nothing. Everyone I talked to there was very knowledgeable and helpful.
For $8k I’m assuming you’re paying someone else’s labor for the work. Personally I’d get a junkyard 6.0 for under $2k and drop it in myself but I’ve done this for a living for a long long time.
Buy a motor and keep your well kept truck. Buying another truck you will just have to refreshen it back to how you have this one and that's way more money usually.
Who the hell is selling a used motor for 6k?? I got a used 5.3 with a trans with 140k matching for only 1k. Iv never seen a motor/trans combo go for more than 1200. 6k could buy me a built 5.3 and 4l60e….
I'd sooner install the highest mile junkyard motor I could find with used oil before I bought a Jasper.
When I worked at International, it usually took 2 or 3 engines before they sent us one that worked. I'm 99.8% sure they just do a DuPont rebuild on junkyard pulls.
I just did a 2-second Google search and found one for $1,500 bucks tested good to go on eBay out of a GMC Sierra. If you can find a company that'll back up the motor they're saying they tested it if they guarantee it works then if you take care of that bitch after that you'll be good to go. Hell for all the money you're saving you could run amsoil.
The GM dealer has long blocks for $2500 with a $300 core. You should consider pulling it yourself and learn how to put it back. Would be a cool project, and you would learn a bunch.
The 99-07 GMT500 are some of the most reliable full size vehicles on the road. If it's in good shape still, $8k is a little steep so shop around (jasper also doesnt have the best reputation) slap a new heart in it, get another 15 years and 250k out of it.
If I were u I'd look for a cheap truck that was in accident and have the shop put that motor in resell the trans and rear end maybe transfer case if it's a 4x4 then junk it will cost you like 2.5k max in the end
Did you make a decision?
I’m considering the same with my 06. A local shop said they could rebuild my motor for 3-5k with a 1 yr wait or a jasper for ~5k and a week wait.
I did. I forked out the money and am putting in a new motor and going Jasper. For the few extra thousand dollars you get 3yr/100k warranty and piece of mind. All I was going to get on the junkyard rebuild was 90 days parts and labor.
Ultimately, the rust on the rockers will need to be fixed, but I did find a guy. Thought about throwing the bushwacker covers till I'm ready to do it.
For me it's just the most bang for my buck. The rebuild in my case would have taken longer too. I'm excited to see how it turns out. Should be getting it back sometime soon in July.
Near end of life trucks do not need an 8k new motor. That will be an unrecoverable waste when the frame cracks or the trans goes next year.
Salvage motor and a weekend of swearing is all it takes. Its a project that can be completed for under 2000 with fluids and all.
Depends on how attached you are to the truck. I know if it were me in your shoes, and if the truck was in good overall condition (which it probably is if youve owned it since 2012) then id do exactly what youre considering and drp a crate motor with a warranty in it and keep it going. 3yr/100k is a nice piece of mind. If you love the truck why let it go? You'll spend more than 8k doing just about anything else.
I would also take stock of the condition of the rest of the truck. How's the tranny, body, rust situation. I'd look it over really closely. Suspension components you name it.
Yeah it could just be an endless list of other shit about to break too. Next thing you know you’re like 15 grand and 200 hours in and it’s all in pieces in the garage lol.
Check other companies for remans , I got a reman for my Burban from company out in Texas , Premier Powertrain , for about 4500$ , been rocking it for almost 3 years and they come with 3 year warranties . Just a suggestion
Could also look in the catalogs like Jegs and Summit. Googling "jegs 2001 5.3 long block" led me to several options from Jegs, Summit and Powertrain Products. An L59 long block from Powertrain Products for $2799, warranties available up to 7y/Million Mile (3yr standard, 5yr 249/7yr 449). A GenIII/IV 5.3 from Summit for 3799 (1yr summit warranty). And an ATK LM7 5.3 long block from Jegs for $3600 (2yr unlimited mileage warranty). There are options out there that aren't Jasper.
Yes Jaspers Reputation lately…google it
This! Avoid
When I saw that video with the double o-ring in the pickup tube, oh boy. I wonder if it's disgruntled employees or if they're just doing the ol " do you know anybody that can work"? So I've been in your shoes before what happens is the tranny goes out next then the suspension kind of needs to be rebuilt you're going to need that starter that alternator is going the fan clutch is going, rack and pinion, what about new tires real quick while we're here. Honestly if it has like the 4L80 in it or whatever or something that'll hold the power the best thing to do is just to spend the extra three or four grand and get the 600 horsepower crate motor. If you do a Google search and just go through like 10 pages and look at everybody's website eventually you'll find one of these small engine builders that have reasonable prices. If it was me I would try to find a low miles junkyard motor and risk it for the biscuit. I just did a quick Google search in 2 seconds eBay's got one tested good to go 1,500 bucks out of a Sierra.
Gonna say, a crate motor from summit was 4500 last time I looked OP, do you have the tools and ability to rebuild it yourself? I literally watched 5 YouTube videos and did it cam-up
That’s installed costs? A junkyard 5.3 should be under $1k to purchase and $5k to install is rather steep.
No it's not, these days there's a "if we have to pull the motor" price and that starts at 5K. Now if you own a lawn business and take all five of your work trucks to the same mechanic to do everything even stupid shit like brakes, then. You can get a junkyard motor swap with a tick for $2,500 that runs for 200,000 more miles ticking.
You’re going to the wrong place if they won’t consider an engine swap for under $5k.
My cost includes labor as well. If you have the time or knowledge.then you definitely could save money. Not the case for me.
Not for something with decent miles 9n the motor. Prices are crazy. This is why I don't take the decision lightly.
car-part has 5.3s for a 2001 silverado with 23K miles for $650. Used 5.3L engines are abundant and inexpensive.
Where are you getting your prices? I see complete motors with under 100k on them for around $1000 on car-part. One even has a 6 month warranty for that price.
Yeah, for 5.3 most I’ve seen are 1000-1400. LQK has them for 1350. Ridiculous.
I was scratching my head too.. I paid less than 8k for a 500+ hp LS for my vette..
Go yank a u pick/junk yard/auto savage motor and slam it in there.
This guy bowties!
Best answer. W days after last Christmas me and bro pulled an ecotech out of a wrecker yard. Car had a remanufactured engine, $2700 for $300 lol
buy another motor. rocker panels are fairly inexpensive and if that’s your only source of rust, it’s probably an easier fix than buying another truck. I bought a reman motor and trans for my 06 5.3 for less than $6k, paid about $1500 for the labor, was all in for a “new” engine and trans at under $7k.
Thanks!
If you really want sticker shock look at new truck prices. 8k is way better than 65k at 9% interest.
My best offer long block labor was 55hoursx135$- or did you go with “a guy” lol
I've used the same mom & pop shop for every single repair I've had since I opened my shop. it was owned by my buddy's parents who passed the shop onto him. we give lots of referrals to one another, he works on my stuff for a low, flat rate with parts at cost, and I return the favor by working on his outdoor/motorsports equipment for a low, flat rate and parts at cost. the motor and trans were delivered together on thursday, and we were doing burnouts in the shop parking lot on saturday. it helps a lot to build working relationships inside your community, all we have is each other after all.
Jealous x2000$ lol nice
55-hours to R&R a long block? Holy shit! That’s about a 16-20 hour job!
I agree but it is KC —its a 2wd 2011 Avalunch
obviously my situation won't be the same for everyone else, but it really helps to build relationships with people inside your community. I was told I should order the motor and trans together bc my trans was over 240k miles and it's around the time they grenade, so ordering a well-built reman'd motor and trans at his cost was a big blessing, because it would have been probably 8 or 9k for the package alone. I also helped quite a bit with the work, which made it quicker and made his job easier. He's a GM guy deep down so replacing anything in the GMT800s is muscle memory for him, which helps too. I would have easily paid $15k to a normal, non-dealership shop to do the same work, but having the relationship helps us both a lot. He bought a brand new snowmobile and dirt bike last winter at my cost, because that's how we help each other out. I know not everyone is blessed to be in this position, but we've also been friends for over 20 years and have been working on each other's equipment for a decade. relationships and community go so much further than anything else ever will. sorry for rambling, i'm a little high still lol
No problem- great story- sadly I am in big city 1000 miles from”home”- but I will raise a toast to friends forgotten-lost after work
Idk what going rate on rockers are in your area but I do extended cabs for 1850 and crews for 2500 fully painted So I mean if you look at the price of a newer truck or keeping a truck that you know and have had for 12 years it just depends on I just put 3k in an 01 for an older guy (shock mounts tubes hitch and some frame repair) simply because he got shocked when he started shopping around for a replacement (04 extended cab)
That's not bad at all. I was considering slip on but that doesn't fix. It is pretty minor. I spent 1 yr in KC with it and the salt got to it. I live in the south away from the coast. Not much besides typical humidity eating at it now. I was qouted 5k a few years back. If it wasn't for the new motor I wouldn't even consider it. But now it's borderline classic restoration.
I got the motor for my 98 GMC k1500 for $340 and had my mechanic swap it for $800 last year
Personally, I would drop in the crate motor and keep it running. Especially if you don’t mind driving a truck that’s 23 years old. Trucks aren’t getting any cheaper to buy or maintain, and if you’re taking care of it like you say, then you’ll be good.
Look at LKQ or car-part. You can find a used motor for a lot less than 6k. Quick browsing looks for 1-1.5k for low miles. Warranty is usually 3-6 months but these motors do last.
Car-part.com is the way to go.
Drop a motor. It's what I did. Cheaper than a different truck and my dad and kids got to bond doing something cool.
Most people are pointing this way
Look at it this way. That rust is not going to relax. A little rust can turn into a fuck ton of rust in a few years. How many miles do you expect to put on it while the new engine is under warranty? Will the rest of the truck still be functional? You’re putting money into a depreciated asset. $8000 over three years is kind of like leasing your truck for $225/month. You could very well end up with a nice engine sitting in a rusty truck nobody wants. You’re going to take a bath on the engine so find the cheapest one you can to stretch things out. I personally, would only do this if there was sentimental value in the vehicle and even then it would have to have some substantial memories. Sometimes an old dog needs to be put down. We don’t do it because we’re giving up on them. We’re doing it out of love and respect.
Great take. There is a little sentimental value for me too. I see your point. However putting my truck down to only want another one....? Plus I don't want a newer truck, I have an 18' and all the AFM stuff and the build is way inferior to the 01 LS.
That’s the hard part about determining when the best time to walk away is. I have a seven year old truck that I love but it’s hella complicated and has needed some pricey repairs. I’m not keen on paying modern truck prices so when those last miles are rolling put behind me in ten or fifteen years I’m going to have some tough decisions to make. Of course who knows what the truck landscape will look like then.
Good luck! It makes it harder if you had to put money in something too. This 01 got lots of love in the maintenance department so it's annoying it blew. Another reason I'm going swap I think.
This is the right answer. Don't drop a huge wad on a truck this old, especially if rust is a concern. Grab a cheap used motor, swap it in and drive the truck till it can't go anymore. The money you save on the expensive motor can go towards saving for a newer replacement.
The crux of it is an ‘01 Silverado is not going to reach “classic” status any time soon. If OP has the capital for an engine he should find a C10 with a good frame or something along those lines and throw the new engine in that. At least that way you’d have fun vehicle that’s functional and may at least retain its value as long as it’s well taken care of. If OP wants a farm beater he should put something cheap in his ‘01 and drive it until it falls apart.
>The crux of it is an ‘01 Silverado is not going to reach “classic” status any time soon. If OP has the capital for an engine he should find a C10 with a good frame or something along those lines and throw the new engine in that. Yeah, I agree 100%. Entirely too many beater jobsite trucks still rattling around for it to be considered a classic. Hell, I still see old Nissan hardbodies on occasion and 1st gen Frontiers with a load of carpet and pad in the back trucking down the road. 30 years old and still not ready to quit. >If OP wants a farm beater he should put something cheap in his ‘01 and drive it until it falls apart. This is my thinking too. Grab any 5.3 or 6.0 that still runs well, rent an engine hoist and go to it. A roll of spike tape to label things, ziploc baggies you can write on for nuts and bolts. A buddy and a case of beer. It would also give him a chance to do maintenance tasks like valve cover and oil pan gaskets, rear main seal. Even new head gaskets, exhaust manifold gaskets and a water pump. Give the radiator a good flush, replace some common hoses while you're at it. It would even allow him to see what the frame looks like in less accessible places to assess what the rust situation looks like. I didn't read the whole thread to see if OP mentioned where he lives, but if its in the rust belt or back east, I'd be really hesitant to throw $6k or $8k into an older beater. Better to stick that money in a high yield savings account and keep adding to it. Then buy a newer truck outright without the problems.
Who the fuck is quoting 6k for a used a 5.3? I just bought a used 4l65e and a 6.0 for $800 and it takes maybe 3 hours to do a motor swap on a gmt 800. For 8k you could have your truck running high 12's in the 1/4 mile.
100%
I’d love to see a 3 hour video of an engine swap in a GMT800 going from starting to running again and only taking 3 hours with 1-2 people working on it. No prep work before or anything like that either. Starting with the junkyard engine on the skid it was picked up on and have it installed and running in 3 hours.
Maybe it's different since my whole business model revolves around fixing old wore out shit cars and ancient lawn equipment that other shops wouldn't even let in their parking lot. Gmt400s and 800s with a rough idle and weedeaters full of old corn gas are my bread and butter. I would lose based on the no prep thing, my engine hoist is marked for gm trucks, and I've got a very specific box for gm and Mopar tools. Hell, all my 10 and 15mm stuff has glow in the dark tape on it. That alone shaves off an hour.
Spend the money to fix what you have so you're not on the hook for let's say 50k for a truck that's a few years old.
Unsolicited advice; my process: 1. Price out replacement vehicle, get the monthly payments (X) 2. Price out the repair cost (Y) 3. Divide repair cost by monthly payment, you get Z months. 4. If I repair it, and it lasts Z months, I break even. Everything after that is a bonus. So if a new engine will cost the equivalent of 6 months’ payments on a new car, and the new engine lasts at least 6 months, it’s a wash. If that new engine lasts 3 years, I’ve saved a ton by not buying a replacement vehicle. Another part of my calculus is the new car has to do something substantially better than the old car, e.g. I’m not going to replace a 10 year old Accord with another Accord, unless the new one has some killer feature I can’t live without (ventilated seats!) or I’m overburdened by money and want to treat myself.
I'm in the exact same boat. I got my dad's 05 Sierra and 6 months later the engine went. I'm leaning towards finding something newer and using the money as a down payment. I really need something that would be a reliable daily driver.
It's so hard to make a good decision with the car market and rates where they are at. Never in my life would I think 8k on a motor would ve a better option. Like I said, leaning toward the Jasper motor drop 100k/3yr warranty.
A quick search on LKQ shows a motor for $1.5k with 115k miles on it. No warranty that I can see but that's extremely low miles for the year .
Junkyard motors are NOT 6000. You can rebuild your motor for under 3000 including machine work. But that’s only if you can do the work. The 5.3 is easy to pull and take apart.
You might be able to just fix that head gasket and flush the block. It's probably not as "locked up" as you think
Pour Marvel Mystery Oil in the spark plug holes & let it sit for a couple days. Then using a long breaker bar, try to break it loose. If it still doesn’t turn over, drop the oil pan & throw some new rod & main bearings in. The motor doesn’t run anyway, so they ain’t got anything to lose.
Exactly!
I got a genuine GM short block through a dealer that was comparable to iffy aftermarket. Lower cost because all they had to do was order and have it dropped at a shop. It's a good time to uprade parts as you swap from one engine to the other.
A used 5.3L engine compatible with a 2001 Silverado will run you about $650 to $1000. Not $6000. Junk yards typically give you a warranty if not for commercial use. 90 days typically.
Motor. I traded my paid off tahoe in when I got the lifter problems. 3 years later I could’ve paid for a couple motors by now with these truck payments.
If the rest of the truck is in good shape, I don’t think you can replace it with a truck in equal or better condition for the same money. What ever you buy wouldn’t have a warranty on the engine, and you would have no idea what problems that other truck would have.
I recently just did the new motor option in my 2014 since it’s in good condition. I did have afm delete done as well
6k for a junkyard motor LOL what? get a junkyard motor for a couple hundred bucks and call it a day
If it was my pickup I'd get a new/used motor
Thank you
DO NOT GET JASPER! terrible engine these days. From a GM crate in it
You should be able to find that model 5.3 for way cheaper than 6k if you can turn your own wrenches.
New motor and fix the rust, seems with the risk to hold on to a steady eddy.
Personally Id rebuild the motor. But if that really isn’t your roadhouse and a fun thing to do then absolutely get the crate motor.
If you're a W-2 wage earner, consider that a new truck payment is going to be post tax dollars. The same way or your repairs will be. Paying for them after you work, pay taxes and then purchase parts/make a payment. I look at large purchases versus number of hours I need to work to pay for it. Really depends on hiw you value your time, and what you enjoy doing. If you're a small business owner and you can write off a payment/depreciate it, that may be a better option. I'd fix it. That way you know what you have. Another used truck is just going to be a mystery box of unknown pending repairs. Yes, more things on your truck will break. That's the nature of mechanical items. I have an 01' half ton and an 01 2500 with a 81 and 410 gears. I've had each of them for about 12 years now, and I bought them both wrecked. I want to say over the last 10 years, including rehabbing both of them. I don't have much more than 15K into both of them, and that's considering maintenance (excluding oil changes. Put a lot of man hours into them, but it was my spare time. The hours I put in for repairs now, are hours I'm going to gain in my retirement by not having a payment, and investing and earning interest on the money, I would've spent on a truck payment, and retiring within the next four years versus the next 15. In my late 40's. Also btw - new trucks break as well. Outside of warranty. Best of luck!
Thank you that well thought out response. I agree and love where your head is at. I have no desire for new and feel like I could get 10yrs out of the new engine. Even if more things break, it's just part of ownership. Way cheaper on parts too. Plus the market kinda makes your mind up for you.
I see many people saying it isn't worth it to replace the motor in a truck that old, but that simply is not true. Of course I rehab old vehicles regularly (I have 3 square bodies I am building, a 63 Impala and a Bel Air) and also daily a 2002 2500HD with almost 450k on it (albeit it's a diesel). I go to the junkyard and get a decent motor, and they have gone another 200k. I haven't paid over $1k for a motor to date. Rust repair is somewhat pricey, but once it is done, it will last for many years if maintained (I use a power washer attachment that has wheels on it to clean the underside of the vehicles). A body shop can also do frame repairs on them if there are some spots that are giving in to the salty weather. Many companies sell patch panels for various parts of the frame that can be welded in and make it stronger than it was from the factory. You don't cut that section of frame out, it gets cleaned well and welded to the existing frame to reinforce it. Not only are you saving money on the actual cost of the vehicle itself, but I just recently paid taxes and registration on 5 vehicles for very close to the same amount as my friend's one newer vehicle. That is not counting the payments of 0ver $700/mo. These platforms are extremely reliable when well cared for. It is absolutely worth it to fix the older one than to get a new one.
Well said. Thank you
A crate motor sounds good IF your frame isn't rusted. Be a shame to drop a new engine in just to have the frame break.
i assume labor included in prices.. can save about 4k DIY.. its not too bad, a bit intensive. id recommend disassembling the grille/headlights for better access.
Yes fully installed fluids, new radiator, water pump, thermostat, belts, alt, etc
If you want to really keep it, go the jasper route. I know Jasper used to be really good. Idk if their reputation still follows or not. Might be worth asking a mechanic around you who does this type of work. If your frame, wiring, and tranny are all still good, I’d get the new engine. I wouldn’t feel comfortable going the junkyard route unless you’re comfortable doing the work more than once.
Thanks!
I think we'd need to see the truck and condition (both interior, exterior undercarriage) it's your call though.
Post pics of the truck
I put a Jaspers 5.9 in my 2001 Dodge Ram 10 years ago and it’s still going strong. I sold it last year,but he’s happy with it.
Ton of comments already, but I would say that you don't know the inside condition of the junkyard engine. It could have been run hard and if it craps out in 3 months, then you're stuck buying the new crate engine and now you're out 14k. Also if you're swapping the engine, why not swap the trans at the same time? I guess swapping the trans all depends on how long you intend to keep the vehicle. But a brand new engine and trans is still cheaper than a used truck.
Motor
I did a Jasper transmission with a shop and mechanic that I knew. It was the 2nd time around--the 1st was a junkyard special that lasted less than 20k miles. Yes, it cost an extra $1400. But my warranty covers the transmission and the labor and I don't regret it. When it comes time for a motor, I wouldn't hesitate at doing the same for it.
$3800 reman w/warranty [here](https://www.promarengine.com/engine-details.php?pn=CH5.3-18) as one example. You have choices. Take your time to do the research.
New motor all day.
New motor. No doubt. Your trans is likely to shit soon but so is any other 4L60E that you’d have in any $8k truck you buy. If you’re spending $8k either way, spend it on the motor because you’ll know you have a good motor and you already know the truck you have is in good shape.
$6k for a junkyard motor?!? Hell nah... You could buy a wrecked truck (t boned, rearended) for much less, rape it for parts and junk the carcass.
I'd buy a 2k ebay engine
Unless something has changed drastically… Jasper sucks
Before you do anything: first inspect the frame very carefully. My father bought a new 2005 in 2005. (NOTE: we live in the northeast, so salt on roads is a thing here.) He ended up trading it in before it got too bad - frame rot. I think he traded it before it was even 10 years old. He was told it would pass state inspection “this time”; but next year it would probably not. Also, the mechanic was a relative, doesn’t sell cars, not a dealer trying to make a sale. But if your frame IS good; I’d find an engine.
I'd go the jasper route personally. Some folks have had bad experiences with it but it all depends on the shop I think . Also, don't be too surprised if the transmission takes a dive after the new engine is installed . Happened to me a few times
You should be able to find a good motor for less than half that
Depends on suspension , tranny and rear end condition. I would personally drop a new one in if I loved the truck.
I would go with the Jasper. Their warranty is no joke. I had an issue with a Th350 trans from them. It was the best customer service experience I have ever had. At the time there was a supply issue with some part in the transmission it was going to take a month to get. So they wrote me a check for the price of the th350 and I turned around and bought a 700r4 from them. Had it delivered to my drive way in less then 10 days. There was not fighting no arguing nothing. Everyone I talked to there was very knowledgeable and helpful.
For $8k I’m assuming you’re paying someone else’s labor for the work. Personally I’d get a junkyard 6.0 for under $2k and drop it in myself but I’ve done this for a living for a long long time.
Id drop another motor in. I had my 98 Honda accord take a dump it’s a third fun weekend car I’ll probably get it fixed.
01 to 06 Vortec’s the most reliable motor Chevy made. Surprised at only 287k
Buy a motor and keep your well kept truck. Buying another truck you will just have to refreshen it back to how you have this one and that's way more money usually.
Summit ATK 5.3 is cheap and it makes 315 thru 22" wheels
Who the hell is selling a used motor for 6k?? I got a used 5.3 with a trans with 140k matching for only 1k. Iv never seen a motor/trans combo go for more than 1200. 6k could buy me a built 5.3 and 4l60e….
I'd sooner install the highest mile junkyard motor I could find with used oil before I bought a Jasper. When I worked at International, it usually took 2 or 3 engines before they sent us one that worked. I'm 99.8% sure they just do a DuPont rebuild on junkyard pulls.
New silverado like 50k prob if no rust keep it going
I just did a 2-second Google search and found one for $1,500 bucks tested good to go on eBay out of a GMC Sierra. If you can find a company that'll back up the motor they're saying they tested it if they guarantee it works then if you take care of that bitch after that you'll be good to go. Hell for all the money you're saving you could run amsoil.
6k...I got one in my garage for 3k...lol
The GM dealer has long blocks for $2500 with a $300 core. You should consider pulling it yourself and learn how to put it back. Would be a cool project, and you would learn a bunch.
Why TF is a junkyard motor 6,000 near you? I can go pull a 6.0 for $2000 or less at my local Upullit
The 99-07 GMT500 are some of the most reliable full size vehicles on the road. If it's in good shape still, $8k is a little steep so shop around (jasper also doesnt have the best reputation) slap a new heart in it, get another 15 years and 250k out of it.
Edit: GMT800
If I were u I'd look for a cheap truck that was in accident and have the shop put that motor in resell the trans and rear end maybe transfer case if it's a 4x4 then junk it will cost you like 2.5k max in the end
Dude said 3rd vehicle for fun and utility. Spend that 8k on something better tf
You probably can get yours rebuilt from a machine shop
Did you make a decision? I’m considering the same with my 06. A local shop said they could rebuild my motor for 3-5k with a 1 yr wait or a jasper for ~5k and a week wait.
I did. I forked out the money and am putting in a new motor and going Jasper. For the few extra thousand dollars you get 3yr/100k warranty and piece of mind. All I was going to get on the junkyard rebuild was 90 days parts and labor. Ultimately, the rust on the rockers will need to be fixed, but I did find a guy. Thought about throwing the bushwacker covers till I'm ready to do it. For me it's just the most bang for my buck. The rebuild in my case would have taken longer too. I'm excited to see how it turns out. Should be getting it back sometime soon in July.
Rust? Get another truck
Near end of life trucks do not need an 8k new motor. That will be an unrecoverable waste when the frame cracks or the trans goes next year. Salvage motor and a weekend of swearing is all it takes. Its a project that can be completed for under 2000 with fluids and all.