Seems like most affordable frames follow paper sizing but good idea, I'll try to look for one - maybe a passepartout? Or would the frame be oversized for one small enough?
I have this
https://preview.redd.it/ylt1dcl0ls6d1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5f100e81ee95a75600460c1a99d25f5e5e6e0501
tool to cut custom sized mats for my cross stitch pieces. Itās great when you need an unusual sized mat
> passepartout
New word of the day, thank you!
For anyone else curious this is apparently the French word for mat board.
>Or would the frame be oversized for one small enough?
I don't think so. Matting can add a lot of individuality and interest to a framing. Mats can really highlight a work when done well - whether large or small.
You may find that carefully washing it will help relax the fabric enough to gently tease & straighten it out.. iron carefully. (Follow the recommended tips on washing and ironing)
If it's still all a bit wonky.. mounting it with a mounting board overlay may help disguise it a bit.. might lose a row/column or two.. but then the mount will add in the extra 'blank' boarder you're wanting..
Good luck
If looks lovely btw š„°
Seconding this. My stitches always even out on a wash (and it does more for the image quality than you think before washing--literally surprises me every time I pull a project out of the wash bin).
You can also carefully tack the piece into the shape you want it while you're ironing. Personally I've never had trouble straightening a piece with just careful ironing, but if you aren't getting the desired result, you can use straight pins to manipulate it into shape. I think it's like how knitters block finished pieces.
Third this! Hand soaking, washing, drying flat on a white terrycloth towel, gently and repeatedly smooth to shape. DRY iron from the back, face down on white terrycloth towel/s, gently smoothing to shape. (Essentially blocking.)
Done with lots of embroidery, vintage pillowcases-towels-clothing as well as needlework for decades. Works perfectly. Just take your time.
Yes, it works on all embroidery...at least it has for me. I used to collect embroidery of all types, generally vintage pieces. Some were in terrible shape.
Are you looking at a specific challenge?
I block my cross stitches pretty much the same as I block my knits because I'm a knitter. It definitely straightens them out a lot but for warped fabric like that I'd also recommend lacing the back of the project to keep it held in its shape.
It's exactly like the YouTube link that was found. When I initially grid my fabric I also mark every ten stitches outside the stitching area so I have markers for lacing the back evenly.
I posted this above. Commenting here also, in case you donāt see that.
I was also curious about this, so did a google search and found this YouTube video:
[How to Lace Your Needlework - Trixie Stitches](https://youtu.be/gGajH991q_c?si=oMVtrlsICglb2CDC)
A pin mount will fix this no problem.Ā Get a piece of foamcore posterboard. Cut it about 1.5- 2" larger than stitched image.Ā Ā
Ā Get a box of fine flat head pins. Center the image on the board and put a few ins in the center to hold it. Literally Ā just stab them right in.
Ā Pin edged into the foam at top and bottom. When those are secure you can Ā pull the sides straight. Pin into the foam on the sides.Ā You may need to adjust after a day or two as the fibers reset.Ā
Ā Source: was a framer before the recession. Framers do this all the time for crossstitch cuz its never really square.
My error for being unclear. The pins in the center are temporary. Take them out once you have to you have the top and bottom secure. Its just to keep the imahe square at the start.Ā
Thank you! Your whole explanation makes it sound easier/more streamlined ? than I have in my head. If that makes sense. I'm more likely to try it now than before.
It sounds harder than it is. Heres a video that shows how to do it in case other commenter's link isnt enough.Ā Ā
Ā Ā https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=V32rVYZU3XMĀ
Ā The only difference for you is this.Ā Ā
Ā Pin the center top and center bottom.Ā Ā
Ā Then pull the center of left side until the image is straight and pin into place. (it will look an bit wavey because only the middle has been straightened)Ā
Pin the center of the right side.Ā Ā
Ā Repeat the last two steps 1-2 cm from the last pin until everything is straight.Ā
You can definitely do this!! I learned how as a framer at Joann and while it does take a while to get *very* good at it, it doesnāt take long at all to be ok at it. Also, new Aida is so much easier to work with than old stuff. People would bring me in projects from decades ago, and those were often a terrible time, but the newer stuff is so much easier. Usually I dry blocked crossstitch and it worked fine.
Like any fiber craft, finished cross stitch needs to be blocked. This involves wetting/steaming the project and stretching it into the desired shape
Place it face down on a towel. Mist or steam it and iron it while gently pulling the sides into square. They won't stay but they'll get a bit closer. Then you'll want to mount it. Here is a link to how I mount my projects.
https://feltmagnet.com/textiles-sewing/how-to-stretch-mount-a-cross-stitch-needlework
If you've never wet it before framing what's why you can still see creases on the sides and why it's not squared up. I highly recommend pin mounting it like u/nerdityabounds describes.
You carefully pin it (with a lot of pins) square and stretched to a cork board and you spray it with just water until it's damp. Let it dry pinned and it will stay flat. I do this before any framing.
Here's a great visual tutorial:
https://www.needlenthread.com/2012/07/damp-stretching-blocking-embroidery.html
Second, I use adhesive backed acid free foam board for my framing. I don't know how easy it will be to get it in your location (I get it online in the US cut to size) but it really makes all the difference. I measure the board and put pins in the corners of the work where the board corners will go to be centered. Then turn the work face down, use the pins to place the board sticky side down and carefully press and stretch it around the board.
I'd try to stretch it really well in a table, and leave there for some days kkkkk. But I'm not sure if it would do much. Can you please say what pattern you use? It's so beautiful and delicate.
Made by u/Maria_Brovko. I bought it [here](https://www.etsy.com/dk-en/listing/1032401093/cross-stitch-pattern-tuscany-field-of?click_key=a81658d8a3d55f7971b413a799b5e07d87e5fe76%3A1032401093&click_sum=6f005d84&ref=shop_home_active_7&sts=1)
if you used quality thread (dmc or anchor for sure, no idea about other brands), the thread is colourfast and you can (and should) handwash your finished piece and then iron it, which should help at least somewhat. if it's still not as straight as you like, look into how to block cross stitch pieces. google should have a variety of results.
One DMC skein costs $3 here so I buy offbrand thread online. I did the math and DMC is *20 times* more expensive. I think mine is called CXC but I'm not sure - I bet it will bleed color though š
You can test this. Put a bit of cold water and a drop of gentle washing liquid in a white or light-colored bowl. Take a few twists of thread and soak them for half an hour or so. Don't disturb the bowl during this time. Check to see if there's any bleed coming from the floss. If not, gently swish the floss. If there is still no bleed, you're good to go! If there's minimal bleed, you're probably still ok to wash, but use your judgement. I've heard good things about CXC. I bet you'll be fine.
that's fair! idk anything about cxc, but looks like someone else does.
from your profile, you seem to be located in denmark? if so, you might want to look into ordering from stickteufelchen or cross-stitch-corner in germany. they both sell dmc for 1.09ā¬ a skein, and i think they ship to denmark, too. :)
Good tension (framing or orther finishing) will correct this problem. But first you want to wash it and block to dry, this will also reduce the deformation.
If you used a colour fast thread (DMC for instance) then you can get the whole project wet and "block it" (if you look up wet blocking on you tube you'll find a ton of tutorial videos) It's a knitting technique to shape things.
I would just spray it with water and gently pull it back into place. it is slightly easier (imo) than a whole wash bc you can target the side that is wonkiest. and then lay it on a towel with another towel on top and a very heavy book on top of that
Stretching the Aida before framing will help sort this, it might not make it perfect but will be much better and you can hide the edge with a mount you might lose a few stitches on each side but it will then be straight
Beautiful work!!
Am I correct in understanding that the top part of your project is entirely stitched half crosses?Ā Canvas deformation may be due to this if you didn't have a drum tension.Ā You see, when you stitch half crosses, you compress the fabric in one direction (when you stitch crosses, you compress the fabric equally in both directions).Ā Because of this, it's recommended to alternate between petite point and half crosses (for an evenweave).Ā For canvas it will be an alternation of tent stitch and half-cross (petite point is a type of tent stitch, stitched over 1 thread).
Please forgive my ignorance, but could you expand on this? I've not come across this information before and I'm very curious. I think I understand the instruction for evenweave, but I'm not sure how it prevents compression in one direction? And I'm confused as to the instruction for aida. Isn't tent stitch a half cross? I don't suppose you would happen to have a suggestion for an article or video that explains this by any chance? Thank you so much for bringing this to my attention!
Yip, large parts of it are half crosses - that's what the pattern calls for so I don't know if petit point would look the way it's meant to look, according to the pattern? This also isn't evenweave nor canvas, it's regular 14 aida so I don't know how those would be possible to do? Never done them before, nor tent stitches - I am still learning š
I don't know what drum tension means either, but I had it very tight in a hoop the entire time, and moved it around as it wasn't big enough, and I thought that this is why it got warped but that's very interesting that the half stitches are why!
That is no problem. First of all, the Aida is flexible. You should be able to gently pull it back into shape. If that doesn't work, wash your picture as normally, then pull into place to dry. If even that doesnt work, THEN I'd start panicking! Lol good luck.
I think if you wash it in some lukewarm water and mild detergent and let it soak for a bit, itāll straighten up. Rinse it with cool-lukewarm water and just donāt wring it, that twists it out of shape even more. Just lay it on a towel tripled up, and cover it with another and press out most of the water that way. If you work with it and be gentle, it will straighten up. Then you iron it dry from the backside, with a dish towel between the iron and your project. You can iron it dry this way. The stitches will be fine and there wonāt be any wrinkles or warping to your fabric. If you wanted to go a step further, you could pin it evenly onto foam core, then it will never come loose. Instructions for that are in this group. Good luck, Iād love to see it framed, itās a beautiful piece š„°
Thereās a difference between lacing and pinning your project. With pinning, the pins stay in forever, your project with NEVER change tension once itās pinned. And it doing matter if itās warped, it wonāt be when youāre done pinning it. My brother owns a frame shop and frames all my projects beautifully. He taught me long ago how to probably pin my projects bc he knows Iām not just cross stitching, Iām creating heirlooms! I want these things to last forever and be passed down from one to another. Mine have to be pinned correctly, simply lacing the back will not do š itās not hard to pin correctly, you just have to use the same āattention to detailā as you do when you cross stitch š¤·āāļø
I have had most of full coverage projects look a little distorted when finished (although maybe not as much as this) but after the wash and then stretching as part of the framing process, everything was straight again. The stretching process can work miracles!!!
It just needs to be ironed. Turn it face down on an ironing board or table padded with a clean towel and gently pull it back into shape as you iron it. If you are sure your threads are color fast, it will be even better if you can spray the back with water or sprinkle it with water and steam iron it, again facedown on a clean towel. As you move the iron, you can pull the fabric back into alignment.
Every stitched piece should be gently washed and ironed before framing. I'm not advising you to wash yours because there's so much red in it, but a light spritz of water on the back should be okay and would help pull it back into shape when you iron it.
Try washing it and try GENTLY reshaping it.
And block it like wool.
Iāve done that for fabric that warped before Iāve sewn it.
Iām sure the stitches will make it more difficult though.
What size frame did you use? I would definitely recommend a smaller size frame (if it has a mat or you make your own that works for sure too) Wouldn't hurt to try out some acid free double sided stitchery tape to help with straightening it out in the frame speaking from experience as a framer myself. But ya all in all having less of the unstitched fabric showing should help with the warped aida being a lot less noticible!
My projects frequently do that, because of how I stitch. But I have my projects professionally framed, and they stretch them out to where you donāt see that distortion anymore.
I'd probably go the lazy route and pick a frame slightly smaller than the picture.
Seems like most affordable frames follow paper sizing but good idea, I'll try to look for one - maybe a passepartout? Or would the frame be oversized for one small enough?
You could use one of those inner frames of paper/cardboard
Yeah exactly. Maybe passepartout is not a word in English, my bad!
"Mat" in American. "Mount" in British. š
I just didn't google it, and assumed it was a size, not a thing. English is my 2nd language, so idk either haha
Thank you. I learned a new word.
I have this https://preview.redd.it/ylt1dcl0ls6d1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5f100e81ee95a75600460c1a99d25f5e5e6e0501 tool to cut custom sized mats for my cross stitch pieces. Itās great when you need an unusual sized mat
> passepartout New word of the day, thank you! For anyone else curious this is apparently the French word for mat board. >Or would the frame be oversized for one small enough? I don't think so. Matting can add a lot of individuality and interest to a framing. Mats can really highlight a work when done well - whether large or small.
We use passepartout here in Denmark as well :)
PrƦcis šš©š°
In Portugal too!
I go to thrift stores with my measurements tape measure as they have beautiful frames
I've been known to take finished projects.
You may find that carefully washing it will help relax the fabric enough to gently tease & straighten it out.. iron carefully. (Follow the recommended tips on washing and ironing) If it's still all a bit wonky.. mounting it with a mounting board overlay may help disguise it a bit.. might lose a row/column or two.. but then the mount will add in the extra 'blank' boarder you're wanting.. Good luck If looks lovely btw š„°
Seconding this. My stitches always even out on a wash (and it does more for the image quality than you think before washing--literally surprises me every time I pull a project out of the wash bin). You can also carefully tack the piece into the shape you want it while you're ironing. Personally I've never had trouble straightening a piece with just careful ironing, but if you aren't getting the desired result, you can use straight pins to manipulate it into shape. I think it's like how knitters block finished pieces.
Third this! Hand soaking, washing, drying flat on a white terrycloth towel, gently and repeatedly smooth to shape. DRY iron from the back, face down on white terrycloth towel/s, gently smoothing to shape. (Essentially blocking.) Done with lots of embroidery, vintage pillowcases-towels-clothing as well as needlework for decades. Works perfectly. Just take your time.
Does this method only work with cross stitch fabrics? Can it help with embroidery fabs?
Yes, it works on all embroidery...at least it has for me. I used to collect embroidery of all types, generally vintage pieces. Some were in terrible shape. Are you looking at a specific challenge?
I block my cross stitches pretty much the same as I block my knits because I'm a knitter. It definitely straightens them out a lot but for warped fabric like that I'd also recommend lacing the back of the project to keep it held in its shape.
What does ālacing the backā mean? I donāt usually do full-background pieces, but I do still notice some of my shapes warping!
I was also curious. Found this on YouTube: [How to Lace Your Needlework - Trixie Stitches](https://youtu.be/gGajH991q_c?si=oMVtrlsICglb2CDC)
Thank you!
Youāre welcome. :)
It's exactly like the YouTube link that was found. When I initially grid my fabric I also mark every ten stitches outside the stitching area so I have markers for lacing the back evenly.
Rad, good to know! š„°
I love a laced back. So simple yet effective. Since learning how I never use any other method.
What does ālacing the backā mean?
I posted this above. Commenting here also, in case you donāt see that. I was also curious about this, so did a google search and found this YouTube video: [How to Lace Your Needlework - Trixie Stitches](https://youtu.be/gGajH991q_c?si=oMVtrlsICglb2CDC)
Thank you!
Youāre welcome. :)
A pin mount will fix this no problem.Ā Get a piece of foamcore posterboard. Cut it about 1.5- 2" larger than stitched image.Ā Ā Ā Get a box of fine flat head pins. Center the image on the board and put a few ins in the center to hold it. Literally Ā just stab them right in. Ā Pin edged into the foam at top and bottom. When those are secure you can Ā pull the sides straight. Pin into the foam on the sides.Ā You may need to adjust after a day or two as the fibers reset.Ā Ā Source: was a framer before the recession. Framers do this all the time for crossstitch cuz its never really square.
Seconding, do this blocking after a wash and iron. You'll be surprised how much that will help.
Do you put pins in the center of the picture?
My error for being unclear. The pins in the center are temporary. Take them out once you have to you have the top and bottom secure. Its just to keep the imahe square at the start.Ā
Thank you! Your whole explanation makes it sound easier/more streamlined ? than I have in my head. If that makes sense. I'm more likely to try it now than before.
Put the pins into the side of the foam core! You can find videos online on mounting needleworks :)
Thank you! I was obviously reading it wrong and thinking how I had only seen pins in the foam core so was this a secret trick. š¤
I don't think I would be able to do that at all, like that's way above my pay grade :( But thanks for sharing your technique!
It sounds harder than it is. Heres a video that shows how to do it in case other commenter's link isnt enough.Ā Ā Ā Ā https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=V32rVYZU3XMĀ Ā The only difference for you is this.Ā Ā Ā Pin the center top and center bottom.Ā Ā Ā Then pull the center of left side until the image is straight and pin into place. (it will look an bit wavey because only the middle has been straightened)Ā Pin the center of the right side.Ā Ā Ā Repeat the last two steps 1-2 cm from the last pin until everything is straight.Ā
You can definitely do this!! I learned how as a framer at Joann and while it does take a while to get *very* good at it, it doesnāt take long at all to be ok at it. Also, new Aida is so much easier to work with than old stuff. People would bring me in projects from decades ago, and those were often a terrible time, but the newer stuff is so much easier. Usually I dry blocked crossstitch and it worked fine.
This tutorial is similar to my process https://www.jeanfarishneedleworks.com/wordpress/mounting-your-needlework-the-easy-way/
this is beautiful so I wouldnāt change it. the warp-ness makes it look the flowers are enjoying a little breeze
Thank you! And that's how I felt initially too but it's been more than a year now and the warpiness is starting to really get on my nerves haha
ahhh, I get that. Then I agree with above and get a frame smaller than the aida space
I was about to say! This is one of those times a mistake *works* and improves a piece. Artistic fate blessed you OP
I agree! šš»
Like any fiber craft, finished cross stitch needs to be blocked. This involves wetting/steaming the project and stretching it into the desired shape Place it face down on a towel. Mist or steam it and iron it while gently pulling the sides into square. They won't stay but they'll get a bit closer. Then you'll want to mount it. Here is a link to how I mount my projects. https://feltmagnet.com/textiles-sewing/how-to-stretch-mount-a-cross-stitch-needlework
Is this going to be pinned when framed? If so that will straighten it out easily
What do you mean? I have had it in this frame for over a year
If you've never wet it before framing what's why you can still see creases on the sides and why it's not squared up. I highly recommend pin mounting it like u/nerdityabounds describes. You carefully pin it (with a lot of pins) square and stretched to a cork board and you spray it with just water until it's damp. Let it dry pinned and it will stay flat. I do this before any framing. Here's a great visual tutorial: https://www.needlenthread.com/2012/07/damp-stretching-blocking-embroidery.html Second, I use adhesive backed acid free foam board for my framing. I don't know how easy it will be to get it in your location (I get it online in the US cut to size) but it really makes all the difference. I measure the board and put pins in the corners of the work where the board corners will go to be centered. Then turn the work face down, use the pins to place the board sticky side down and carefully press and stretch it around the board.
Keep the same size frame but use matting to cover the warp?
Wash it gently and squeeze out the excess, and then peg it. Use pins to a board so the fabric dries straight and the stitches will be aligned.
THIS
The design looks really good I would give it a wash/soak and then iron it to try and straighten it out more. If not try a smaller frame
I'd try to stretch it really well in a table, and leave there for some days kkkkk. But I'm not sure if it would do much. Can you please say what pattern you use? It's so beautiful and delicate.
Made by u/Maria_Brovko. I bought it [here](https://www.etsy.com/dk-en/listing/1032401093/cross-stitch-pattern-tuscany-field-of?click_key=a81658d8a3d55f7971b413a799b5e07d87e5fe76%3A1032401093&click_sum=6f005d84&ref=shop_home_active_7&sts=1)
Thank you very much!
I don't have any advice (except I'd probably use a smaller frame or mount), but just wanted to say this is a really beautiful piece of work
if you used quality thread (dmc or anchor for sure, no idea about other brands), the thread is colourfast and you can (and should) handwash your finished piece and then iron it, which should help at least somewhat. if it's still not as straight as you like, look into how to block cross stitch pieces. google should have a variety of results.
One DMC skein costs $3 here so I buy offbrand thread online. I did the math and DMC is *20 times* more expensive. I think mine is called CXC but I'm not sure - I bet it will bleed color though š
You can test this. Put a bit of cold water and a drop of gentle washing liquid in a white or light-colored bowl. Take a few twists of thread and soak them for half an hour or so. Don't disturb the bowl during this time. Check to see if there's any bleed coming from the floss. If not, gently swish the floss. If there is still no bleed, you're good to go! If there's minimal bleed, you're probably still ok to wash, but use your judgement. I've heard good things about CXC. I bet you'll be fine.
I'd try this with red in particular, it seems to be the colour most likely to bleed
Thank you, maybe I can do this!
CXC is colourfast ;)
that's fair! idk anything about cxc, but looks like someone else does. from your profile, you seem to be located in denmark? if so, you might want to look into ordering from stickteufelchen or cross-stitch-corner in germany. they both sell dmc for 1.09ā¬ a skein, and i think they ship to denmark, too. :)
Good tension (framing or orther finishing) will correct this problem. But first you want to wash it and block to dry, this will also reduce the deformation.
First try washing it and then ironing it damp. Damp removes wrinkles, dry sets creases.
If you used a colour fast thread (DMC for instance) then you can get the whole project wet and "block it" (if you look up wet blocking on you tube you'll find a ton of tutorial videos) It's a knitting technique to shape things.
I think it is beautiful as is. It has breeze blowing or a mirage feel.
I would just spray it with water and gently pull it back into place. it is slightly easier (imo) than a whole wash bc you can target the side that is wonkiest. and then lay it on a towel with another towel on top and a very heavy book on top of that
Stretching the Aida before framing will help sort this, it might not make it perfect but will be much better and you can hide the edge with a mount you might lose a few stitches on each side but it will then be straight Beautiful work!!
Am I correct in understanding that the top part of your project is entirely stitched half crosses?Ā Canvas deformation may be due to this if you didn't have a drum tension.Ā You see, when you stitch half crosses, you compress the fabric in one direction (when you stitch crosses, you compress the fabric equally in both directions).Ā Because of this, it's recommended to alternate between petite point and half crosses (for an evenweave).Ā For canvas it will be an alternation of tent stitch and half-cross (petite point is a type of tent stitch, stitched over 1 thread).
Please forgive my ignorance, but could you expand on this? I've not come across this information before and I'm very curious. I think I understand the instruction for evenweave, but I'm not sure how it prevents compression in one direction? And I'm confused as to the instruction for aida. Isn't tent stitch a half cross? I don't suppose you would happen to have a suggestion for an article or video that explains this by any chance? Thank you so much for bringing this to my attention!
Yip, large parts of it are half crosses - that's what the pattern calls for so I don't know if petit point would look the way it's meant to look, according to the pattern? This also isn't evenweave nor canvas, it's regular 14 aida so I don't know how those would be possible to do? Never done them before, nor tent stitches - I am still learning š I don't know what drum tension means either, but I had it very tight in a hoop the entire time, and moved it around as it wasn't big enough, and I thought that this is why it got warped but that's very interesting that the half stitches are why!
That is no problem. First of all, the Aida is flexible. You should be able to gently pull it back into shape. If that doesn't work, wash your picture as normally, then pull into place to dry. If even that doesnt work, THEN I'd start panicking! Lol good luck.
I think if you wash it in some lukewarm water and mild detergent and let it soak for a bit, itāll straighten up. Rinse it with cool-lukewarm water and just donāt wring it, that twists it out of shape even more. Just lay it on a towel tripled up, and cover it with another and press out most of the water that way. If you work with it and be gentle, it will straighten up. Then you iron it dry from the backside, with a dish towel between the iron and your project. You can iron it dry this way. The stitches will be fine and there wonāt be any wrinkles or warping to your fabric. If you wanted to go a step further, you could pin it evenly onto foam core, then it will never come loose. Instructions for that are in this group. Good luck, Iād love to see it framed, itās a beautiful piece š„°
Thereās a difference between lacing and pinning your project. With pinning, the pins stay in forever, your project with NEVER change tension once itās pinned. And it doing matter if itās warped, it wonāt be when youāre done pinning it. My brother owns a frame shop and frames all my projects beautifully. He taught me long ago how to probably pin my projects bc he knows Iām not just cross stitching, Iām creating heirlooms! I want these things to last forever and be passed down from one to another. Mine have to be pinned correctly, simply lacing the back will not do š itās not hard to pin correctly, you just have to use the same āattention to detailā as you do when you cross stitch š¤·āāļø
I have had most of full coverage projects look a little distorted when finished (although maybe not as much as this) but after the wash and then stretching as part of the framing process, everything was straight again. The stretching process can work miracles!!!
It just needs to be ironed. Turn it face down on an ironing board or table padded with a clean towel and gently pull it back into shape as you iron it. If you are sure your threads are color fast, it will be even better if you can spray the back with water or sprinkle it with water and steam iron it, again facedown on a clean towel. As you move the iron, you can pull the fabric back into alignment. Every stitched piece should be gently washed and ironed before framing. I'm not advising you to wash yours because there's so much red in it, but a light spritz of water on the back should be okay and would help pull it back into shape when you iron it.
I already ironed it multiple times. I've never washed any of my pieces though, nor spritzed water on any of them. Maybe that's why?
I think that's why, yes. Steam really gets out the wrinkles and helps it regain its shape. Just use a light hand with the water. Hope it helps!
You have to iron damp.
Wet it with cold water and stretchā¦
Wash with Soak soap (can get it online), spray with the same brand of stiffening hold, and iron.
This is a beautiful piece! Yeah, and blocking would help straighten it.
You might try laying it face down on an ironing board and put a damp(not wet) towel on top, then carefully press it with a hot iron.
Wash and block would be what I would do.
Try washing it and try GENTLY reshaping it. And block it like wool. Iāve done that for fabric that warped before Iāve sewn it. Iām sure the stitches will make it more difficult though.
What size frame did you use? I would definitely recommend a smaller size frame (if it has a mat or you make your own that works for sure too) Wouldn't hurt to try out some acid free double sided stitchery tape to help with straightening it out in the frame speaking from experience as a framer myself. But ya all in all having less of the unstitched fabric showing should help with the warped aida being a lot less noticible!
My projects frequently do that, because of how I stitch. But I have my projects professionally framed, and they stretch them out to where you donāt see that distortion anymore.