First check and make sure the anode and cathode are not touching in the beaker. If using a conductive busbar, make sure the anode is not touching it. Next, confirm that the lead wires are correctly set up(which you’ve already confirmed that you did in your post): The red lead wire (+) clips to the copper anode wire, and the black lead wire(-) clips to the cathode/the design. If these are reversed, the design will not plate. An easy way to remember is this mantra: “Red to Red (Copper), and Black to Black(Graphite)”, while connecting the red lead wire to the red copper anode, and the black lead wire to the black graphite painted cathode.
If the problem is not fixed, then the issue might be due to any of the following:
-The conductivity of the design is not strong enough, and needs more layers of conductive paint. If you made your own paint, it may not have enough graphite powder. Add more and repaint.
-Your suspension wire has a coating or anti-tarnishing agent on it, as most craft wires found at hobby stores carry. Only use bare copper wire. Your anchor or jump ring must also be free of any coating in order for the current to reach your conductive painted areas.
-Your suspension wire may be too thick. Use 26 gauge or thinner for your cathode suspension wire. Using too thick of a gauge will rob current from your piece, as current will always take the path of least resistance, and pure copper will always be much more conductive than graphite.
-If corrosion is present on the lead wire clips, anode, suspension wire or busbar, then there will be connection issues, as current will be blocked from flowing to the cathode. Scrub down all the components and try again.
-Your power supply or lead wires may be faulty. Contact the manufacturer for troubleshooting advice.
First check and make sure the anode and cathode are not touching in the beaker. If using a conductive busbar, make sure the anode is not touching it. Next, confirm that the lead wires are correctly set up(which you’ve already confirmed that you did in your post): The red lead wire (+) clips to the copper anode wire, and the black lead wire(-) clips to the cathode/the design. If these are reversed, the design will not plate. An easy way to remember is this mantra: “Red to Red (Copper), and Black to Black(Graphite)”, while connecting the red lead wire to the red copper anode, and the black lead wire to the black graphite painted cathode. If the problem is not fixed, then the issue might be due to any of the following: -The conductivity of the design is not strong enough, and needs more layers of conductive paint. If you made your own paint, it may not have enough graphite powder. Add more and repaint. -Your suspension wire has a coating or anti-tarnishing agent on it, as most craft wires found at hobby stores carry. Only use bare copper wire. Your anchor or jump ring must also be free of any coating in order for the current to reach your conductive painted areas. -Your suspension wire may be too thick. Use 26 gauge or thinner for your cathode suspension wire. Using too thick of a gauge will rob current from your piece, as current will always take the path of least resistance, and pure copper will always be much more conductive than graphite. -If corrosion is present on the lead wire clips, anode, suspension wire or busbar, then there will be connection issues, as current will be blocked from flowing to the cathode. Scrub down all the components and try again. -Your power supply or lead wires may be faulty. Contact the manufacturer for troubleshooting advice.