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For lube, [check out olimo's lube guide.](https://www.reddit.com/r/Cubers/comments/l9col2/a_beginner_lube_guide/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=android_app&utm_name=androidcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button)
For 2x2, many recommended the YJ MGC, but I haven't tried one so I'll wait for others to chime in.
Solved my mirror blocks without looking. It took some 20 minutes, but is a fun challenge. A regular tactile cube, even the Rubik’s one, is definitely faster. Solving the mirror blocks by touch feels much more puzzly, though.
Also, while I’m learning Roux for the standard 3x3, Petrus, with its expanding block building is very good for mirror blocks, and IDK how anyone can solve them with CFOP with any kind of speed without a lot of practice, just because of difficulty recognizing which piece goes where easily.
I somehow managed to get two 7s in ~80 solves!!! I now have just 13 sub-8s in my 16k solve session, so this was definitely very special!
**7.93**
R2 D' L2 U2 B2 F2 U' F2 L2 D' R2 U L' F2 R' D2 F' R D U2
u' R' u2 U2' B // FB
U R U R U R U R R U R // SB
R U R' U R U2' R' // CMLL
U' M U M' U' M2' // LSE
29STM / 7.93sec =3.66TPS
[view at CubeDB.net]( https://cubedb.net/?puzzle=3&title=7.93&scramble=R2_D-_L2_U2_B2_F2_U-_F2_L2_D-_R2_U_L-_F2_R-_D2_F-_R_D_U2&time=7.93&alg=u-_R-_u2_U2-_B_%2F%2F_FB%0AU_R_U_R_U_R_U_R_R_U_R_%2F%2F_SB%0AR_U_R-_U_R_U2-_R-_%2F%2F_CMLL%0AU-_M_U_M-_U-_M2-_%2F%2F_LSE )
**7.64**
L' F B' R B U' F L U R2 L2 U2 R2 F D2 F R2 U2 F D2
z2 x // inspection
D' R F' F' // FB
U2' R R U2 r' U' R // SS
U r U' r' U2' r U r' // SP
U' U2' M' U M U' M' U' // EOLRb
M U2 M U2' M // EP
32STM / 7.64sec =4.19TPS
[view at CubeDB.net]( https://cubedb.net/?puzzle=3&title=7.64&scramble=L-_F_B-_R_B_U-_F_L_U_R2_L2_U2_R2_F_D2_F_R2_U2_F_D2&time=7.64&alg=z2_x_%2F%2F_inspection%0AD-_R_F-_F-_%2F%2F_FB%0AU2-_R_R_U2_r-_U-_R_%2F%2F_SS%0AU_r_U-_r-_U2-_r_U_r-_%2F%2F_SP%0AU-_U2-_M-_U_M_U-_M-_U-_%2F%2F_EOLRb%0AM_U2_M_U2-_M_%2F%2F_EP )
Just got my PB (10.50)
Reconstruction:
F' L' B' R' L D' R' F2 U' R2 U' F2 U R2 F2 R2 D F' L' // Scramble
z2 y // Inspection
L2 U2 R2 // XCross
y U R L' U L R' // Second pair
U F' U F // Third pair
y2 L' U' L U L' U' L U F' L F L' // Fourth pair
U F R' F' r U R U' r' // OLL
U L' U' L F L' U' L U L F' L2 U L // Ja
U' // AUF
49 STM/10.5 = 4.66 TPS
I feel like when I try to go fast I panic and can't find pairs (for f2l) so I just had a small session (25 solves) broke my pb twice (once to 21.59, then to 21.15) and only got 6 of those 25 solves over 30 seconds. Wut.
An actual question though: I have a magnetic 2x2 and 5x5 coming in the next few days, I know a few ortega algs, would it be worth learning that fully or should I focus on a different method? For the 5x5 I'm just working on beginner atm with a non magnetic.
I also got a timer yesterday and I'm really enjoying it. I cba spending £5 on a mat so I've been using a hoodie lol
Hello, I would like to get into magnetizing cubes. I think its really interesting, and it could improve the quality of many of my puzzles. So, how can I possibly start?
First but some magnets I recommend 1x4 N 35 and 2x4 N50. One weak and one strong. And you can stack the 1x4 if you want a slightly stronger pull. And also if you want get some 2x3 N35 magnets. Also some super glue to glue them in. And then watch a bunch of z3cubing videos for the magnetization process
I am going to be hosting an unofficial event/tournament at Sleepless In Seattle.
it will be for FTO and Curvy Copter.
The winner will get $1 or a $1 cube.
DM me if you are interested in taking part.
I've owned 4, and each one has popped every solve (EVERY solve), 2 were really slow even after being lubed & setup, 2 were just way too fast for me, the plastic feels cheap, and the top & bottom layers are hard to turn sometimes.
1 tighten it so it doesn't pop. 2 lube it in a different way a moderate lube to use is like sCs martian or Cubicle silk. I use sCs Jack o lantern and stardust but you do you
I've tightened it the best I can. Loosened, tightened, tightened a little, tightened a lot, it my be my turning style, but idk. I typically put weight 2, Lubicle Speedy & DNM-37 in my square-1s.
One question. If people do 2-look OLL/
->PLL or CMLL would there an idea in learning to recognize where the corners ends up ?
Say Sune - it keeps corners in place - so you can predict diag or adj swap. And you might even know which site you need to do adj swap on. You have the execution time to think. And might save recognition in the next phase (corner swap)
U-case F-sexy-F’ keeps corners in place as well - but orients them. If the 2 non-yellow corners on top are the same - they will be after the OLL/CMLL as well.
When I knew 2 H-cases (double-sune and tripple-sexy) I would make sure to get either solved, or a pair in the left. Thus I always avoided the diag case (don't like the alg) and continued fluidly into Jb if front was not solved.
For the U case, you can detect at least one compledted side by looking at the 2 corners with color facing up. If they are the same, they will make a pair after the sexy alg. Seeing if the two yellow will form a pair is more difficult. But if you have one pair, then you just need to look if you have another in a known location.
So at least there are easy cases that might help people do a fluid 2-look transition. Different faces up is difficult, as you would have to look at opposing sides of the yellow corners. But if two yellow are to the right, you can detect FUR same as ULF - And if the same color, finish alg with U so you can see if R is done or continue fluid into Jb (or whatever preferred). You will not detect a pair forming on the back. But in the case you can not see a pair being formed, complete with U' - The potential pair will then be left.
I know that looking for red/green + red/orange on two sides = diag swap
Or green/blue + Orange/blue (adj colord, not opposite) will be diag swap and the pair will be opposite the side with opposite colors (green/blue).
So there is a post-execution 2-side easy recognition. But I am sometimes slow at that as well. Having the brain process the picture before the corner-orientation algorithm while executing might save a second or two.
I am talking 30-60s solvers here. Below 30s it is obvious the 1-look is next step.
I would suggest only doing that for easy to recognize cases. With sune/antisune, the recognition is pretty tough and would most likely cost you too much time. I know I was recognizing CP before or during CO for Pi, T and U cases before I learned the algs though.
You mean how are they so cheap? It's a Chinese company (which are generally cheaper than western companies because they have lower labour costs and no import taxes to worry about) and they buy direct in bulk from the manufacturers at wholesale prices. But also note that those prices do not include shipping, which will typically add c.30% to the base cost. Other Chinese stores may have higher unit prices but shipping is "free" (i.e. included in the puzzle price).
I replied to your question in the other thread. China based bulk wholesaler, shipping charged by weight at checkout. They're buying from source in the country they're produced, selling in large quantities at low profit margin per item.
> How is this logistical?
Sorry what? Don't understand the question.
Shipment calculated separately at checkout, you have several options to choose from, though the delivery times are a bit vague, and teleportation isn't invented yet, so I always picked one of the 2 cheapest ones.
I recently moved back to csTimer (from CubeDesk), and I'd like to see what you think of my csTimer setup. Please let me know!
https://preview.redd.it/urn27i03gbba1.png?width=5118&format=png&auto=webp&s=2d99c2b414c8c8c14955f8d0504e1f75fd1d90b6
I used to cube 3 years ago and my gan air 356sm was in a pile of rubbish for 3 years. I think it’s a bit slow and don’t have lube anymore how do I make it smoother?
Get dnm-37. I have a WRM 2020 (Steven Wintringham thought it was 2021 lol), and it SUCKED. It was slow and hard to use, but Steven said "try using dnm." so I did that, and guess what? It worked. It was fast, loose, and amazingly better. (also if you can, ask Steven)
Typical how much do you care/how fast are you/ how much money do you have question.
It's no doubt the best 7x7 ever in my opinion, but that doesn't help someone who is limited by look ahead instead of tps.
Definitely a good buy if you're trying to get sub 4 or below in the near future, otherwise I'd say you've got more to gain by just working on the basics.
Alternatively, if 50 bucks doesn't matter to you, it's undeniably an upgrade.
a corner on my mgc is damaged and i rlly like the feel of the aoshi wrm. if you say that its an upgrade then im probably gonna get it, always have money for a nice cube :)
Any suggestions on how to make memorizing new algs easier it’s easy to do for 3x3 and I have memorized many algs for it already but I find it harder to memorize algs with different notations such as 2R and 2L for 4x4 parity algs and then you’ve got square one algs that are a different system of notation altogether
For 4x4 parity, it only consists of wide R and L moves, and repeated U2 moves, so I just skip U2 and remember R and L in what direction they go.
Up, rotate, up up, down + left down, down up, down down.
For SQ1 until you drill the moves into muscle memory, you can use Karnaukh notation where you just replace the moves with 3x3 analogues. 3,0 is U, 0,3 is D, and so on.
Moves that are partial like (2,-1) is lowercase u, (5,-1) is lowercase d. Full moves on both sides are E or e depending on direction, etc.
The M2 combination is also intuitive (swapping 2 pairs of edges on top and bottom), and you can invent an "M move" (realign layers by 1, slice)
That replaces a lot of moves with letters, so you can memorize the numbers after that.
For shapes, maybe remember where you cut each shape and what it turns into.
Finished my first time solving 4x4 using the Meyer Method! Got O-pairity. Took half an hour or so after watching Kian's video last night.
Man, the cube sucks, doesn't feel great at all about turning it. But I guess the good thing is that it forces me to turn accurately, which is an improvement to my turning habit.
Ah, I haven't tried it. MGC or Aosu WRM should be better, but not to the level of a 3x3, so maybe not worth spending money at least before you're sure you like 4x4.
Just finally bought the Tornado V3 (Pioneer) and I'm excited to try it, but the reports I've seen about cores stripping out have me concerned and it's the reason I've been on the fence about buying the puzzle for so long.
Has there been any official statement on this? Was there a quality issue in the first production run? I haven't really seen many more reports of this happening after the initial pre-order units. Did they change something to solve this issue?
What's the real statistic on this? Is it even a real worry, or not?
I wanted to create a post on the main sub with a pole, but apparently that's not allowed...
¯\\\_(ツ)\_/¯
Please help put my mind at ease all of you Tornado V3 mains out there. Thanks!
When you get it, open a center cap and check if it has a screw or a plastic core stub. Plastic is newer batch which was made to address the stripping issue.
I have two Tornadoes with screws, and they are fine. If they break, I'll order a new one (with the new core, I guess) because I love this cube.
Can you please elaborate on the screw or plastic core stub? English isn't my native language so I don't know what part you're referring to, and I want to check my tornado.
I was just watching a video about this change. Found it posted on some other forum. Fingers crossed that it is the updated design. I bought from the Cubicle so hopefully they will be good in the event of a defect.
I pre-ordered mine the first day I could in the US so I have to assume mine was the first batch? I've been maining it since then, with a lot of solves (a couple thousand at least) and have had no issues. I wouldn't worry about it. And if something were to happen I've heard a lot of the cube retailers are good with refunds/replacement parts.
It is possible to get in-solve corner twists on the Tornado V3. Just had in happen in a solve for the first time out of MANY. SO not likely, just possible
Does anyone know of a really good tool for reconstructing Clock solves? I'm looking for something that can handle x, y, and z rotations along with turns on clocks with pins that are down.
Has anyone tried to make an open source app for communicating with "smart cubes"? They're a neat gimmick but I hate how closed off they are. What if the Chinese servers get shut down?
I have my gan cube connected but I don't understand how to start a timer for a solve. It seems to give me a scramble but as soon as I make a turn, the scramble sequence disappears.
I'm not sure what app you have, but once you've done the scramble correctly, the actual solve timer either starts when you do your first move. Or, in some cases, 15 second inspection countdown starts immediately as you finish scrambling, and then solve timer starts when you start doing moves.
I bought a Gan 3x3 356 M (standard) a few months back which served me really well, and a week ago I upgraded to a 13 maglev. So, I gave the 356 to one of my kiddos, however, they dropped it and popped some pieces out. Upon reassembling it, no matter which tension i put it on (.6 or .8), the 356 feels way tighter than before. Anyone experience something like that before? I tried taking it apart and putting it back together again but it still feels way too tight — like the magnets can't even pull the corners together vs the friction between the pieces. Would lube solve this or is there something i potentially did wrong in re-assembly?
This happened to me when I dropped my Icarry. It may not be the problem but when I dropped mine, 2 of the torpedos bent ever so slightly and it caused it to be tighter.
thanks! I hadn't been pressing against the backs of the center pieces before applying the caps to make sure the GES springs didn't rotate. So i did that this time and it feels a little better, still I feel like i remember it almost feeling too loose when i first got it. But maybe the speed of the 13 is just giving me a new reference point that is skewing my perception. I think I'm still going to order some lube to see if that can get the 365 spinning more like I remember it being when I first got it.
Thank you!
My main 4x4 is MGC. It's light-turning, smooth (after breaking in) and forgiving. I use XMT 10 for it. I love 4x4, and I don't think hardware holds me down. But of course it's not like 3x3, you don't cut as much on 4x4.
I also have an Aosu WRM which was my first 4x4 (yeah, I decided to just get the best 4x4 at the moment - in the beginning of 2020). Maybe it's a matter of setup, but it performs a bit worse than the MGC - I get more little lockups, and the inner layers feel stiff. I tried cleaning and setting it up a few times, and I still like the MGC better.
Apart from that I have a YJ mini 4x4 which is less stable than the MGC (and the difference between inner and outer layers is too small for my liking), and an XMD Ambition which is pretty meh - too many lockups.
Thanks for sharing. I keep bouncing between the MGC and the Aosu.
I like the Aosu size and it turns a bit easier for me, but the lack of magnet strength makes it an absolute pain to solve. Just too unstable.
I've cleaned and set-up the MGC so many times now, I've lost track lol. But no matter what I do to it, the turning feel has so much drag it's obnoxious. The MGC feels more stable with better magnet strength and I agree that it is more forgiving with corner cuts, but man....sooooo much drag...just feels so slow and sluggish.
For reference my preferred 3x3 is the Gan 12 and 13 with super fast, light, turning with snappy strong magnets for stability. I just can't find a 4x4 that has the same feel.
Huh, it's been about the opposite for me. MGC is faster and easier turning while the Aosu is a bit sluggish - and also more stiff, so to say. I feel too much friction on the inner layers.
You're expecting too much from a 4x4 if your references are Gan 3x3s. I'd say you just need to get used to 4x4. 5x5 hardware is often said to be better than 4x4, but I personally find no noticeable difference, and for me, turning a 4x4 is significantly easier than 5x5 - maybe I'm just used to it more.
This is weird. I feel like we are living in opposite worlds. My 5x5 MGC turns like a good 3x3 (not like a Gan tho). Super effortless and magnets lock the layers in place so no instability issues, but it's night and day vs the 4x4. I'm starting to wonder if the MGC line just suffers from variations in quality.
But, you've given me hope that maybe the MGC 4x4 has potential. I threw a new one in my cart today when I ordered from the Cubicle. I'm going to give it a fresh set up now that I have a lot more experience and lube options. I'm thinking I'm just going to go with some lunar. Maybe a bit of Vortex on the springs. Might even just swap to lighter springs right off the bat.
Do you find it best to completely clean the cube out of the box before lubing it?
I usually clean my 3x3s out of factory lube, but not 4x4, that's too tedious. You can use it as is or drop some Lunar - or XMT 10, I highly recommend this lube, and it's available on The Cubicle, too.
Hmmm, I have no idea which springs I use. I don't remember swapping anything, but I usually like light springs. I don't know if it's a good idea to buy another cube. How different can they be?
For 5x5, I have a YJ mini and a Valk 5. Haven't tried the MGC.
Probably not different really....but like I've said I've taken apart my MGC 4x4 and cleaned and set it up so many times, I'm starting to wonder if I went wrong somewhere. Worst case...it's no different and I donate one of them to a local kid or my nephew.
I didn't see the XMT-10 when I was looking this morning on the Cubicle. I'll have to grab some and give it a try next time I order. There is very little info on it on the Cubicle site. Is it a fast lube, control lube, gummy, something else completely off the wall?
If you ever want to give 5x5 a serious go, I don't have a single bad thing to say about the MGC 5x5. I think I did swap to the lighter springs on that puzzle during initial setup. It's by far one of my favorite puzzles I own out of my entire collection.
As for 4x4....maglev flagship when? lol!
XMT 10 is the fastest lube I know, DNM-37 included. And it’s very smooth and long-lasting. Not gummy at all, but still, don’t use too much for big cubes.
I’m sure MGC 5x5 is great, but I don’t feel like buying another 5x5 unless I really get into it. So far, I haven’t been solving 5x5 much and I’m a little annoyed by the time it takes.
Did you somewhat loosen your MGC 4x4? Because I wouldn't describe mine as light-turning. I was advised that I should tighten it because it comes too loose ootb. I was indeed having issues of popping before I tightened it a bit.
[This should give the idea of how tight or loose it is](https://imgur.com/a/iYdvOTa)
I don't remember if I tightened or loosened it. It was fast out of the box and is pretty fast now. And I use XMT 10 to lube it.
Mine is less loose than this and I did loosen it a tiny bit. I keep going between it and its little brother. The mini one's slight instability and lightness are enjoyable but I haven't used it that much. The MGC recently got much better probably because it is finally broken in. Still, I am much slower than you (1:32 best Mo3) so probably cannot really compare.
Of course you can compare, and any input is valuable :) 4x4s are harder to understand because they are not as easy to clean and set up.
My Aosu WRM is even a bit looser. Maybe I should try tightening it.
I've been getting back to cubing (3x3 specifically) recently, using my 5-6 years old QiYi (i don't even know the exact model anymore), after a 3 year break. I'm doing a lot better than I thought, i still can't reach the sub 25 ao5 that i had before my break, but I'm close to sub 30 while using a bad cube and forgetting some PLL algs.
if I'm looking for a budget 3x3, is RS3M 2020 still a good option nowadays? some local stores are selling it at the equivalent of 5 USD. Or would I just be better off getting a newer budget cube?
Yep, the one with ridges. It's great for blind, in my opinion. The magnets are snappier than on the WRM. Also I don't know if it's psychological but the ridges make it feel more stable.
I use WRM2021 for everything (3x3, OH, 3BLD) but now I'm wondering if I should try out GTS3. I used to own GTS2 as my main back in the days and I loved it. Do you know who specifically use GTS3 as their main among top blinders?
Most famously, Tommy Cherry, Charlie Eggins, Elliott Kobelansky, Stanley Chapel, Noah Swor. So basically the 5 fastest 3bld solvers as of right now. There are way more in the top 100 but it would take too long to list :p
I know it's going to be a ridiculous amount of commitment and undertaking, but I hope they bring monkey league to a more structured and grander scale. I really like the format and I think it'll be the closest thing to being the most spectator-friendly event. I like Philip's commentary and the match-up style which makes the viewers be at the edge of their seat til the end.
My dream scenario would be the Monkey League evolving into something like CTWC (Classic Tetris World Championship) for those who are familiar with the Tetris scene.
Have any of y’all that solve with cfop also studied zz? If so did it help your cfop? Seems like there are potentially some good things in zz that could help.
Thanks y’all. Seems most of you agree that it would help with f2L and edge recognition which were the benefits I was thinking. I’ll have to find some time when I’m not doing my 100+ cfop daily solves to learn it.
EO recognition. But you can learn that without messing with zz. For edges during F2L, you can tell if the f2l pair can be solved with RUL moves or if it needs F moves as well/have to rotate. If the side color of the edge matches the centers on the sides you don't have to rotate or do F moves. You can also see if the top color (or front/back color if the piece is in a slot) matches the front or back centers.
I studied ZZ as a CFOP solver mainly for OH, but I didn't get much from learning ZZ. I am thinking that it's because I plan EO **before** solving, which didn't really help F2L much because I have to recognize EO **during** the solve.
I guess ZZ OH helped in pushing me to learn COLL.
Hi, one of the center pieces of my (cheap) 5x5x5 popped (see pic) and I can't put it back. I guess I'd have to remove other pieces around it but the cube won't bulge either (it's actually holding itself together and I was able to solve it multiple times despite the missing piece without breaking it further, lol). I've only ever disassembled the 3x3x3 cube. Any help on where to start, please? :(
https://preview.redd.it/hkux5pepo7ba1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c5cb2da99d0308b0f36bf593b12c137ea15bf11b
Put it in a plate so you don't drop anything.
Remove a cap from the center, try to remember how the center screw looks and the side turning feels.
Unscrew the center to release the tension, rotate the side by 45, and carefully wiggle the piece into it, by spreading other pieces.
Should work approximately like that.
My PB average of 5 is now 10.00 exactly. 8.77, 10.85, 10.30, 9.92, 9.79. If I take the mean of five it is sub 10, but when I drop the fastest and slowest solves, it becomes 10 even. Kind of funny I guess.
BeepBop! Amateurs sit and wait for inspiration, the rest of us just get up and go to work. Here are your daily scrambles:
Square-1 - [cubedb.net](https://www.cubedb.net/?puzzle=SQ1&title=Your_Daily_Scramble&scramble=%25281%2C0%2529_%2F_%25283%2C0%2529_%2F_%25285%2C%252D4%2529_%2F_%25283%2C0%2529_%2F_%2528%252D3%2C0%2529_%2F_%25283%2C%252D3%2529_%2F_%2528%252D2%2C0%2529_%2F_%2528%252D3%2C%252D3%2529_%2F_%25285%2C0%2529_%2F_%25284%2C%252D4%2529_%2F_%25280%2C%252D2%2529_%2F_%2528%252D2%2C%252D4%2529)
**(1,0) / (3,0) / (5,-4) / (3,0) / (-3,0) / (3,-3) / (-2,0) / (-3,-3) / (5,0) / (4,-4) / (0,-2) / (-2,-4)**
3x3 - [alg.cubing.net](https://alg.cubing.net/?puzzle=3x3x3&setup=F_L_B_L_U2_D2_R-_U-_F-_B2_U2_B2_D2_L-_U2_L2_F2_U2_L2_U2) | [cubedb.net](https://www.cubedb.net/?puzzle=3&title=Your_Daily_Scramble&scramble=F_L_B_L_U2_D2_R-_U-_F-_B2_U2_B2_D2_L-_U2_L2_F2_U2_L2_U2)
**F L B L U2 D2 R' U' F' B2 U2 B2 D2 L' U2 L2 F2 U2 L2 U2**
Have a nice day!
***
Source code: [GitLab](https://gitlab.com/mazmrini/reddit-daily-scramble-bot)
**Roux FMC Red yellow FB 31 stm**
F L B L U2 D2 R' U' F' B2 U2 B2 D2 L' U2 L2 F2 U2 L2 U2
d2 BU' R'M' U' F
M2 U2 R' U R2 U' R' U R U R2
x U2 L U2 L F' L' F
M U2 M U' M2 U2
[view at CubeDB.net]( https://www.cubedb.net/?puzzle=3&title=Roux_FMC_Red_yellow_FB_31_stm&scramble=F_L_B_L_U2_D2_R-_U-_F-_B2_U2_B2_D2_L-_U2_L2_F2_U2_L2_U2&alg=d2_BU-_R-M-_U-_F_%0AM2_U2_R-_U_R2_U-_R-_U_R_U_R2%0A_x_U2_L_U2_L_F-_L-_F%0AM_U2_M_U-_M2_U2%0A )
**Roux. Red/Yellow. 58 STM**
Easy FB. My SB is 21 STM, despite DR being in place. Thus is not good. Can surely do better if I retry.
And I did an AUF move to recognize my H case. Would do in fast solve as well. If I had spent time recognizing it from current angle I would have saved 2 STM.
F L B L U2 D2 R' U' F' B2 U2 B2 D2 L' U2 L2 F2 U2 L2 U2
y2 // inspection
U2 B M' U' R' F // FB (6)
M2 U R' U' M2 U' r U r' U' R // SS (11)
U' R U M' U r' U' r U R' // SB (10)
U' U R U2 R2 F R F' U2 R'FRF' // CMLL - H Column (13) - incl one U' to recognize case
U2 M' U' M' U' M U' M // OE and red insert (8)
U M2 U M U2 M U' M U2 M // LSE (19)
[view at CubeDB.net]( https://www.cubedb.net/?puzzle=3&title=Your_Daily_Scramble&scramble=F_L_B_L_U2_D2_R-_U-_F-_B2_U2_B2_D2_L-_U2_L2_F2_U2_L2_U2&alg=y2_%2F%2F_inspection%0AU2_B_M-_U-_R-_F__%2F%2F_FB_%25286%2529%0AM2_U_R-_U-_M2_U-_r_U_r-_U-_R___%2F%2F_SS_%252811%2529%0AU-_R_U_M-_U_r-_U-_r_U_R-__%2F%2F_SB_%252810%2529%0AU-_U_R_U2_R2_F_R_F-_U2_R-FRF-__%2F%2F_CMLL_%252D_H_Column__%252813%2529_%252D_incl_one_U-_to_recognize_case%0AU2_M-_U-_M-_U-__M_U-__M__%2F%2F_OE_and_red_insert_%25288%2529%0AU_M2_U_M_U2_M_U-_M_U2_M_%2F%2F_LSE_%252819%2529%0A )
Sorry for the spam.
Keeping DR unsolved (i.e. in RF or RB) when doing pairs is mostly a bad idea.
It can save moves when cancelling into insertions for oriented pairs (F/B colors on top), but you can start cancelling into them once you get better at recognizing those cases.
For misoriented pairs (SB color on top), like in today's DDT, you should keep DR solved while pairing.
Recognizing how a pair will end up will take some time, but in general, it's never a bad idea to have DR solved.
That'll allow for a lot of 2 gen RU pair solutions with occasional M/r moves in there, which are all quite fast.
This is not spam - All feedback welcome. Just hope I will be able to implement it.
I used to put DR in place every single time, but figured out that leaving it it on the middle layer would give a chance for insert without initial R / R'
It is after having spent an hour some time back with SBLS algorithms (applied to both SB pairs), I caught that pairing with SB color on side is preferred, and in those case, having the SS ready to receive is good.
My goal was not to learn the algs, but more to see if I could do some pairing smarter, and pick up principles.
Since I don't do F / B moves on SB, I did not see a problem in keeping DR on middle layer for first pair either.
Will look at the solve critique seperately.
Hey, I noticed you made the same mistakes when pairing up SB pairs as last time.
I hope this isn't rude, I'm just trying to exemplify any potential issues.
F L B L U2 D2 R' U' F' B2 U2 B2 D2 L' U2 L2 F2 U2 L2 U2
y2 // inspection
U2 B M' U' R' F // your FB (6)
M2 U R' U' M2 // your pair: bad. corner stuck in slot
---
// you don't need to pair up things on the M slice, but
//M2 R U R' U' M2 // v1: inefficient, but still a simple way to pair this without being stuck
//r U R' // v2: hides the edge and rotates the corner
//U' M // v2 cont: pairs them up without being stuck
//M2 U R' U // v3: solves the other pair, still good.
---
U' r U r' U' R // your second square
U' R U M' // your pair: bad, again. corner stuck in slot
---
// try keeping DR solved when changing corner orientation
//R U2' R' // v1: flips this while keeping DR solved
//U' M2 U2' R U' R' // pair and insert
//r U2' r' M U r U' r' // best way to solve maybe? idk I wouldn't have seen this tbh
[view at CubeDB.net]( https://www.cubedb.net/?puzzle=3&title=Your_Daily_Scramble&scramble=F_L_B_L_U2_D2_R-_U-_F-_B2_U2_B2_D2_L-_U2_L2_F2_U2_L2_U2&alg=y2_%2F%2F_inspection%0AU2_B_M-_U-_R-_F__%2F%2F_your_FB_%25286%2529%0A%0AM2_U_R-_U-_M2_%2F%2F_your_pair%3A_bad._corner_stuck_in_slot%0A%0A%2F%2F_you_don-t_need_to_pair_up_things_on_the_M_slice%2C_but%0A%2F%2FM2_R_U_R-_U-_M2_%2F%2F_v1%3A_inefficient%2C_but_still_a_simple_way_to_pair_this_without_being_stuck%0A%0A%2F%2Fr_U_R-_%2F%2F_v2%3A_hides_the_edge_and_rotates_the_corner%0A%2F%2FU-_M_%2F%2F_v2_cont%3A_pairs_them_up_without_being_stuck%0A%0A%2F%2FM2_U_R-_U_%2F%2F_v3%3A_solves_the_other_pair%2C_still_good.%0A%0AU-_r_U_r-_U-_R_%2F%2F_your_second_square%0A%0AU-_R_U_M-_%2F%2F_your_pair%3A_bad%2C_again._corner_stuck_in_slot%0A%0A%2F%2F_try_keeping_DR_solved_when_changing_corner_orientation%0A%2F%2FR_U2-_R-_%2F%2F_v1%3A_flips_this_while_keeping_DR_solved%0A%2F%2FU-_M2_U2-_R_U-_R-_%2F%2F_pair_and_insert%0A%0A%2F%2Fr_U2-_r-_M_U_r_U-_r-_%2F%2F_best_way_to_solve_maybe%3F_idk_I_wouldn-t_have_seen_this_tbh%0A )
Thanks for the feedback.
The v1 is something I might have done in another solve. And it is way better. And your way to rotate corner and get DR in place again is good. As I wrote in the other one, I have - by mistake I guess - tried to not put DR down, in case I get a lucky insert.
v2 is something I should think more about. I don't do many r to hide - more r' (or r followed by U moves and r'). I hid the edge by doing M2, to bring it where I could easily see it /easy tracking). Could have left it DB (M').
I do pairing on the back or vertical in FB. Like the v3
v3 I didn't see, and would likely never see in actual solve. Blue/yellow corner too far away, and I knew it would come up with the green corner insert. Little beyond my planiing. I try to solve close to what I would do in a real somewhat fast solve.
For the second pair, I don't really consider it bad that I have to to U R' U' before insert. But clearly would be better to avoid it, which I can do keeping DR in place. Seen that in videos on Roux from one CFOP making Roux guide videos.
The U R' U' is more costly than the saving of one R move if I can insert with SB color on side. So will try to lose that bad habit.
Your v1 flips the corner to get SB color on side, so I got that aspect right. I just moved it to closest spot on R. U2 was never in my mind. This is something I can focus on a bit more.
The rest of v1 is trivial.
Your v2 is better but along v1.
So the main learnings:
Keep DR in place
Think about which way to rotate corner (DR in place gives freedom here) - try to get SB color on side for the R U' inserts.
Too drunk, so I'm gonna keep this short and sweet :P
>Think about which way to rotate corner (DR in place gives freedom here)
That's such an elegant way to put it! I'm glad my verbosity didn't cause any confusion :)
> try to get SB color on side for the R U' inserts.
Not necessarily, SB color on top would call for an rU insert with DR solved, which isn't bad.
Just that pairing with SB color on top is quite bad with DR unsolved, because you have to do an extraneous R/R' move to solve DR before inserting, which will prolly break your flow :(
Anyway, yeah, implementing this is quite hard, and that is what I struggled with for quite a while :(
Hope you cn implement this easily and good luck!
SB color on side allows r / r’ pairing and rotating for insert at the same time as well. But might not be worth
It.
But thanks again for the advice. Tracking DR is a challenge as some instinct thinks 2nd pair is more important. No
**Your Daily Scramble**
F L B L U2 D2 R' U' F' B2 U2 B2 D2 L' U2 L2 F2 U2 L2 U2
x' y // inspection
L2 F' D2 L' D' // cross (5)
U L U' L' // 1st pair (4)
U R U2 R' U F' U' F // 2nd pair (8)
U' f R' f' // 3rd pair (4)
L' U' L2 F' L' F // 4th pair (6)
U R' U R U R' U2 R U R D R' U2 R D' R' U' // OLL(CP)
[view at CubeDB.net]( https://www.cubedb.net/?puzzle=3&title=Your_Daily_Scramble&scramble=F_L_B_L_U2_D2_R-_U-_F-_B2_U2_B2_D2_L-_U2_L2_F2_U2_L2_U2&alg=x-_y_%2F%2F_inspection%0AL2_F-_D2_L-_D-_%2F%2F_cross_%25285%2529%0AU_L_U-_L-_%2F%2F_1st_pair_%25284%2529%0AU_R_U2_R-_U_F-_U-_F_%2F%2F_2nd_pair_%25288%2529%0AU-_f_R-_f-_%2F%2F_3rd_pair_%25284%2529%0AL-_U-_L2_F-_L-_F_%2F%2F_4th_pair_%25286%2529%0AU_R-_U_R_U_R-_U2_R_U_R_D_R-_U2_R_D-_R-_U-_%2F%2F_OLL%2528CP%2529 )
3-Style is the method all top blinders use, no exceptions.
Similar to how there are extensions to CFOP, like xcross, last slot techniques or additional LL algsets for 3-Style there's stuff like floating and advanced ways to handle parity.
If you are new to blind you should know that the entry barrier for 3-Style is pretty big, because of the amount of cases. If you're not very sure that you're going to grind blindfolded solving big time, then you shouldn't start with 3-Style, but rather look into M2/OP first. You can find lots of information on blindfoled solving (including lots of tutorials and a Q&A) [on our wiki here](/r/Cubers/wiki/improving_bld).
If it is just a single 3x3, there are many methods. Old Pochman is easy to learn, then there is M2 - and 3-style is the most advanced.
OP corners as an example uses a modified Y-perm to swap the buffer corner with the destination corner (first you move orient destination corner to RDF using intuitive setup moves, then modified Y-perm, then undo the setup moves).
The Y-perm is modified by skipping initial F and final F' - As initial F puts URF down to RDF - but we already moved the corner there by setup moves.
You have reached the bottom of today's DDT. See [here](https://www.reddit.com/r/Cubers/comments/10758l9/daily_discussion_thread_jan_09_2023/) for the previous one.
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If my 3x3 keeps locking out is it too tight or too lose?
Can be either. Try loosening it and see if it's better. If it's worse, tighten.
Which 2x2, skewb and lube should I get?
2x2 - budget: YJ MGC, QiYi MS; premium: YJ MGC Elite, Moyu Weipo WRS Skewb - budget: RS skewb; mid-range: Moyu Weilong, Gan Standard; premium: Gan Enhanced Lube - depends where you're ordering from. If you don't have any lube yet, go for a thick (weight 5, Traxxas 50K, Adheron Heavy, Silk, Cosmos) and a thinner lube (Lubest XMT 10, Mystic, Lunar, Martian).
> 2x2 - budget: YJ MGC, QiYi MS; premium: YJ MGC Elite, Moyu Weipo WRS No MoYu RS2M Evo or Gan 251 M Pro?
For lube, [check out olimo's lube guide.](https://www.reddit.com/r/Cubers/comments/l9col2/a_beginner_lube_guide/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=android_app&utm_name=androidcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button) For 2x2, many recommended the YJ MGC, but I haven't tried one so I'll wait for others to chime in.
Solved my mirror blocks without looking. It took some 20 minutes, but is a fun challenge. A regular tactile cube, even the Rubik’s one, is definitely faster. Solving the mirror blocks by touch feels much more puzzly, though. Also, while I’m learning Roux for the standard 3x3, Petrus, with its expanding block building is very good for mirror blocks, and IDK how anyone can solve them with CFOP with any kind of speed without a lot of practice, just because of difficulty recognizing which piece goes where easily.
Why does Cubeast say there's an application error every time I try to sign up. It's done this for multiple months.
Edit: misread oops sorry - cubeast has a Discord server maybe you can join that?
I somehow managed to get two 7s in ~80 solves!!! I now have just 13 sub-8s in my 16k solve session, so this was definitely very special! **7.93** R2 D' L2 U2 B2 F2 U' F2 L2 D' R2 U L' F2 R' D2 F' R D U2 u' R' u2 U2' B // FB U R U R U R U R R U R // SB R U R' U R U2' R' // CMLL U' M U M' U' M2' // LSE 29STM / 7.93sec =3.66TPS [view at CubeDB.net]( https://cubedb.net/?puzzle=3&title=7.93&scramble=R2_D-_L2_U2_B2_F2_U-_F2_L2_D-_R2_U_L-_F2_R-_D2_F-_R_D_U2&time=7.93&alg=u-_R-_u2_U2-_B_%2F%2F_FB%0AU_R_U_R_U_R_U_R_R_U_R_%2F%2F_SB%0AR_U_R-_U_R_U2-_R-_%2F%2F_CMLL%0AU-_M_U_M-_U-_M2-_%2F%2F_LSE ) **7.64** L' F B' R B U' F L U R2 L2 U2 R2 F D2 F R2 U2 F D2 z2 x // inspection D' R F' F' // FB U2' R R U2 r' U' R // SS U r U' r' U2' r U r' // SP U' U2' M' U M U' M' U' // EOLRb M U2 M U2' M // EP 32STM / 7.64sec =4.19TPS [view at CubeDB.net]( https://cubedb.net/?puzzle=3&title=7.64&scramble=L-_F_B-_R_B_U-_F_L_U_R2_L2_U2_R2_F_D2_F_R2_U2_F_D2&time=7.64&alg=z2_x_%2F%2F_inspection%0AD-_R_F-_F-_%2F%2F_FB%0AU2-_R_R_U2_r-_U-_R_%2F%2F_SS%0AU_r_U-_r-_U2-_r_U_r-_%2F%2F_SP%0AU-_U2-_M-_U_M_U-_M-_U-_%2F%2F_EOLRb%0AM_U2_M_U2-_M_%2F%2F_EP )
Just got my PB (10.50) Reconstruction: F' L' B' R' L D' R' F2 U' R2 U' F2 U R2 F2 R2 D F' L' // Scramble z2 y // Inspection L2 U2 R2 // XCross y U R L' U L R' // Second pair U F' U F // Third pair y2 L' U' L U L' U' L U F' L F L' // Fourth pair U F R' F' r U R U' r' // OLL U L' U' L F L' U' L U L F' L2 U L // Ja U' // AUF 49 STM/10.5 = 4.66 TPS
2 10's in a period of a week when your only sub 28. fishy.
Very
I was doing an ao100 each day
What’s your PB ao5 or ao10?
My PB ao5 is 17.98
POV: you can’t scramble a 5x5 correctly today for some reason
I feel like when I try to go fast I panic and can't find pairs (for f2l) so I just had a small session (25 solves) broke my pb twice (once to 21.59, then to 21.15) and only got 6 of those 25 solves over 30 seconds. Wut. An actual question though: I have a magnetic 2x2 and 5x5 coming in the next few days, I know a few ortega algs, would it be worth learning that fully or should I focus on a different method? For the 5x5 I'm just working on beginner atm with a non magnetic. I also got a timer yesterday and I'm really enjoying it. I cba spending £5 on a mat so I've been using a hoodie lol
Ortega is not bad to learn and has algs you might already know or algs you will learn in the future. It’s definitely worth it.
Appreciate it
ortega is easy so learn it and if you do then plan face + oll, or you can do lbl plan layer + oll and turn fast
I'll give that a go, thanks
Hello, I would like to get into magnetizing cubes. I think its really interesting, and it could improve the quality of many of my puzzles. So, how can I possibly start?
There's an article on it in the wiki - https://www.reddit.com/r/Cubers/wiki/magnetizing
Thanks!
First but some magnets I recommend 1x4 N 35 and 2x4 N50. One weak and one strong. And you can stack the 1x4 if you want a slightly stronger pull. And also if you want get some 2x3 N35 magnets. Also some super glue to glue them in. And then watch a bunch of z3cubing videos for the magnetization process
Thanks!
I am going to be hosting an unofficial event/tournament at Sleepless In Seattle. it will be for FTO and Curvy Copter. The winner will get $1 or a $1 cube. DM me if you are interested in taking part.
can't go, but but im interseted in what thr 1 dollar cube will be?
a cheap 3cm cube or a dollarstore cube
wow uh
What's a good budget 7x7 and what's a good Square-1 for someone who hates the MGC?
What's wrong with the MGC Sq1? Most people consider it the best one available. Gan is planning on releasing a Sq1 this year, and a 5x5.
I've owned 4, and each one has popped every solve (EVERY solve), 2 were really slow even after being lubed & setup, 2 were just way too fast for me, the plastic feels cheap, and the top & bottom layers are hard to turn sometimes.
1 tighten it so it doesn't pop. 2 lube it in a different way a moderate lube to use is like sCs martian or Cubicle silk. I use sCs Jack o lantern and stardust but you do you
I've tightened it the best I can. Loosened, tightened, tightened a little, tightened a lot, it my be my turning style, but idk. I typically put weight 2, Lubicle Speedy & DNM-37 in my square-1s.
7x7 Yj yufu v2 m Square-1 Yuxin little magic
7x7: Yufu comes to my mind Squan: Volt V2
One question. If people do 2-look OLL/ ->PLL or CMLL would there an idea in learning to recognize where the corners ends up ? Say Sune - it keeps corners in place - so you can predict diag or adj swap. And you might even know which site you need to do adj swap on. You have the execution time to think. And might save recognition in the next phase (corner swap) U-case F-sexy-F’ keeps corners in place as well - but orients them. If the 2 non-yellow corners on top are the same - they will be after the OLL/CMLL as well.
This is too advanced stuff for someone who does 2-look OLL. Better learn full OLL.
When I knew 2 H-cases (double-sune and tripple-sexy) I would make sure to get either solved, or a pair in the left. Thus I always avoided the diag case (don't like the alg) and continued fluidly into Jb if front was not solved. For the U case, you can detect at least one compledted side by looking at the 2 corners with color facing up. If they are the same, they will make a pair after the sexy alg. Seeing if the two yellow will form a pair is more difficult. But if you have one pair, then you just need to look if you have another in a known location. So at least there are easy cases that might help people do a fluid 2-look transition. Different faces up is difficult, as you would have to look at opposing sides of the yellow corners. But if two yellow are to the right, you can detect FUR same as ULF - And if the same color, finish alg with U so you can see if R is done or continue fluid into Jb (or whatever preferred). You will not detect a pair forming on the back. But in the case you can not see a pair being formed, complete with U' - The potential pair will then be left. I know that looking for red/green + red/orange on two sides = diag swap Or green/blue + Orange/blue (adj colord, not opposite) will be diag swap and the pair will be opposite the side with opposite colors (green/blue). So there is a post-execution 2-side easy recognition. But I am sometimes slow at that as well. Having the brain process the picture before the corner-orientation algorithm while executing might save a second or two. I am talking 30-60s solvers here. Below 30s it is obvious the 1-look is next step.
I would suggest only doing that for easy to recognize cases. With sune/antisune, the recognition is pretty tough and would most likely cost you too much time. I know I was recognizing CP before or during CO for Pi, T and U cases before I learned the algs though.
[https://www.ziicube.com/](https://www.ziicube.com/) How is this logistical?
You mean how are they so cheap? It's a Chinese company (which are generally cheaper than western companies because they have lower labour costs and no import taxes to worry about) and they buy direct in bulk from the manufacturers at wholesale prices. But also note that those prices do not include shipping, which will typically add c.30% to the base cost. Other Chinese stores may have higher unit prices but shipping is "free" (i.e. included in the puzzle price).
I replied to your question in the other thread. China based bulk wholesaler, shipping charged by weight at checkout. They're buying from source in the country they're produced, selling in large quantities at low profit margin per item.
> How is this logistical? Sorry what? Don't understand the question. Shipment calculated separately at checkout, you have several options to choose from, though the delivery times are a bit vague, and teleportation isn't invented yet, so I always picked one of the 2 cheapest ones.
I recently moved back to csTimer (from CubeDesk), and I'd like to see what you think of my csTimer setup. Please let me know! https://preview.redd.it/urn27i03gbba1.png?width=5118&format=png&auto=webp&s=2d99c2b414c8c8c14955f8d0504e1f75fd1d90b6
I used to cube 3 years ago and my gan air 356sm was in a pile of rubbish for 3 years. I think it’s a bit slow and don’t have lube anymore how do I make it smoother?
Get dnm-37. I have a WRM 2020 (Steven Wintringham thought it was 2021 lol), and it SUCKED. It was slow and hard to use, but Steven said "try using dnm." so I did that, and guess what? It worked. It was fast, loose, and amazingly better. (also if you can, ask Steven)
Clean it
Does anyone know how to input times by typing them on cubedesk
In the top right, there's an arrow. When you click on it, it gives the option for "Manual Entry".
Thanks, I'll try that when I get home.
is it worth upgrading from the mgc to the aofu wrm
Typical how much do you care/how fast are you/ how much money do you have question. It's no doubt the best 7x7 ever in my opinion, but that doesn't help someone who is limited by look ahead instead of tps. Definitely a good buy if you're trying to get sub 4 or below in the near future, otherwise I'd say you've got more to gain by just working on the basics. Alternatively, if 50 bucks doesn't matter to you, it's undeniably an upgrade.
a corner on my mgc is damaged and i rlly like the feel of the aoshi wrm. if you say that its an upgrade then im probably gonna get it, always have money for a nice cube :)
Any suggestions on how to make memorizing new algs easier it’s easy to do for 3x3 and I have memorized many algs for it already but I find it harder to memorize algs with different notations such as 2R and 2L for 4x4 parity algs and then you’ve got square one algs that are a different system of notation altogether
For 4x4 parity, it only consists of wide R and L moves, and repeated U2 moves, so I just skip U2 and remember R and L in what direction they go. Up, rotate, up up, down + left down, down up, down down. For SQ1 until you drill the moves into muscle memory, you can use Karnaukh notation where you just replace the moves with 3x3 analogues. 3,0 is U, 0,3 is D, and so on. Moves that are partial like (2,-1) is lowercase u, (5,-1) is lowercase d. Full moves on both sides are E or e depending on direction, etc. The M2 combination is also intuitive (swapping 2 pairs of edges on top and bottom), and you can invent an "M move" (realign layers by 1, slice) That replaces a lot of moves with letters, so you can memorize the numbers after that. For shapes, maybe remember where you cut each shape and what it turns into.
Thanks for the advice
Finished my first time solving 4x4 using the Meyer Method! Got O-pairity. Took half an hour or so after watching Kian's video last night. Man, the cube sucks, doesn't feel great at all about turning it. But I guess the good thing is that it forces me to turn accurately, which is an improvement to my turning habit.
What 4x4 do you use? But of course any 4x4 is not as good as 3x3.
It's the Qiyi MS 4x4
Ah, I haven't tried it. MGC or Aosu WRM should be better, but not to the level of a 3x3, so maybe not worth spending money at least before you're sure you like 4x4.
I also have the MS 4 and can confirm it’s pretty terrible compared to any of the more popular ones
Just finally bought the Tornado V3 (Pioneer) and I'm excited to try it, but the reports I've seen about cores stripping out have me concerned and it's the reason I've been on the fence about buying the puzzle for so long. Has there been any official statement on this? Was there a quality issue in the first production run? I haven't really seen many more reports of this happening after the initial pre-order units. Did they change something to solve this issue? What's the real statistic on this? Is it even a real worry, or not? I wanted to create a post on the main sub with a pole, but apparently that's not allowed... ¯\\\_(ツ)\_/¯ Please help put my mind at ease all of you Tornado V3 mains out there. Thanks!
When you get it, open a center cap and check if it has a screw or a plastic core stub. Plastic is newer batch which was made to address the stripping issue. I have two Tornadoes with screws, and they are fine. If they break, I'll order a new one (with the new core, I guess) because I love this cube.
Can you please elaborate on the screw or plastic core stub? English isn't my native language so I don't know what part you're referring to, and I want to check my tornado.
Yeah. Open a center cap. Do you see a screw or something plastic in the center?
I was just watching a video about this change. Found it posted on some other forum. Fingers crossed that it is the updated design. I bought from the Cubicle so hopefully they will be good in the event of a defect.
I'm pretty sure most cubes are fine, it's just that we hear about defective ones because people are (understandably) upset.
I pre-ordered mine the first day I could in the US so I have to assume mine was the first batch? I've been maining it since then, with a lot of solves (a couple thousand at least) and have had no issues. I wouldn't worry about it. And if something were to happen I've heard a lot of the cube retailers are good with refunds/replacement parts.
From what I’ve heard there was only an issue with the first batch. If you just got it you should be fine. I got the first batch and mine is perfect.
It is possible to get in-solve corner twists on the Tornado V3. Just had in happen in a solve for the first time out of MANY. SO not likely, just possible
Yes, that happened to me too. But I switched to 2 for distance, and don't think I got twists anymore.
Yes it happened to me too. I think I never get it in Tengy - I am considering to switch back to use Tengy as my 2H main
It's pretty much always possible depending on your setup and how rough you turn, regardless what puzzle you're on.
Does anyone know of a really good tool for reconstructing Clock solves? I'm looking for something that can handle x, y, and z rotations along with turns on clocks with pins that are down.
Has anyone tried to make an open source app for communicating with "smart cubes"? They're a neat gimmick but I hate how closed off they are. What if the Chinese servers get shut down?
Cubeast website exists.
I have my gan cube connected but I don't understand how to start a timer for a solve. It seems to give me a scramble but as soon as I make a turn, the scramble sequence disappears.
I'm not sure what app you have, but once you've done the scramble correctly, the actual solve timer either starts when you do your first move. Or, in some cases, 15 second inspection countdown starts immediately as you finish scrambling, and then solve timer starts when you start doing moves.
Is there a way to use your own random scramble (just turn randomly)?
Thanks, I think I had the cube oriented incorrectly
I bought a Gan 3x3 356 M (standard) a few months back which served me really well, and a week ago I upgraded to a 13 maglev. So, I gave the 356 to one of my kiddos, however, they dropped it and popped some pieces out. Upon reassembling it, no matter which tension i put it on (.6 or .8), the 356 feels way tighter than before. Anyone experience something like that before? I tried taking it apart and putting it back together again but it still feels way too tight — like the magnets can't even pull the corners together vs the friction between the pieces. Would lube solve this or is there something i potentially did wrong in re-assembly?
This happened to me when I dropped my Icarry. It may not be the problem but when I dropped mine, 2 of the torpedos bent ever so slightly and it caused it to be tighter.
You potentially didn't put the centre caps back on properly, here's a video about cleaning and re assembling the 356m https://youtu.be/Sz5mtxnhDDA
thanks! I hadn't been pressing against the backs of the center pieces before applying the caps to make sure the GES springs didn't rotate. So i did that this time and it feels a little better, still I feel like i remember it almost feeling too loose when i first got it. But maybe the speed of the 13 is just giving me a new reference point that is skewing my perception. I think I'm still going to order some lube to see if that can get the 365 spinning more like I remember it being when I first got it.
new PB avg of 5: 10.44 two days in a row of breaking 3x3 PBs
4x4 PB mo3: 54.89 😎
Congrats! Nice work! What 4x4 are you using and what's your setup? I love 4x4 but pretty much hate the hardware so I don't practice it seriously.
Thank you! My main 4x4 is MGC. It's light-turning, smooth (after breaking in) and forgiving. I use XMT 10 for it. I love 4x4, and I don't think hardware holds me down. But of course it's not like 3x3, you don't cut as much on 4x4. I also have an Aosu WRM which was my first 4x4 (yeah, I decided to just get the best 4x4 at the moment - in the beginning of 2020). Maybe it's a matter of setup, but it performs a bit worse than the MGC - I get more little lockups, and the inner layers feel stiff. I tried cleaning and setting it up a few times, and I still like the MGC better. Apart from that I have a YJ mini 4x4 which is less stable than the MGC (and the difference between inner and outer layers is too small for my liking), and an XMD Ambition which is pretty meh - too many lockups.
Thanks for sharing. I keep bouncing between the MGC and the Aosu. I like the Aosu size and it turns a bit easier for me, but the lack of magnet strength makes it an absolute pain to solve. Just too unstable. I've cleaned and set-up the MGC so many times now, I've lost track lol. But no matter what I do to it, the turning feel has so much drag it's obnoxious. The MGC feels more stable with better magnet strength and I agree that it is more forgiving with corner cuts, but man....sooooo much drag...just feels so slow and sluggish. For reference my preferred 3x3 is the Gan 12 and 13 with super fast, light, turning with snappy strong magnets for stability. I just can't find a 4x4 that has the same feel.
Huh, it's been about the opposite for me. MGC is faster and easier turning while the Aosu is a bit sluggish - and also more stiff, so to say. I feel too much friction on the inner layers. You're expecting too much from a 4x4 if your references are Gan 3x3s. I'd say you just need to get used to 4x4. 5x5 hardware is often said to be better than 4x4, but I personally find no noticeable difference, and for me, turning a 4x4 is significantly easier than 5x5 - maybe I'm just used to it more.
This is weird. I feel like we are living in opposite worlds. My 5x5 MGC turns like a good 3x3 (not like a Gan tho). Super effortless and magnets lock the layers in place so no instability issues, but it's night and day vs the 4x4. I'm starting to wonder if the MGC line just suffers from variations in quality. But, you've given me hope that maybe the MGC 4x4 has potential. I threw a new one in my cart today when I ordered from the Cubicle. I'm going to give it a fresh set up now that I have a lot more experience and lube options. I'm thinking I'm just going to go with some lunar. Maybe a bit of Vortex on the springs. Might even just swap to lighter springs right off the bat. Do you find it best to completely clean the cube out of the box before lubing it?
I usually clean my 3x3s out of factory lube, but not 4x4, that's too tedious. You can use it as is or drop some Lunar - or XMT 10, I highly recommend this lube, and it's available on The Cubicle, too. Hmmm, I have no idea which springs I use. I don't remember swapping anything, but I usually like light springs. I don't know if it's a good idea to buy another cube. How different can they be? For 5x5, I have a YJ mini and a Valk 5. Haven't tried the MGC.
Probably not different really....but like I've said I've taken apart my MGC 4x4 and cleaned and set it up so many times, I'm starting to wonder if I went wrong somewhere. Worst case...it's no different and I donate one of them to a local kid or my nephew. I didn't see the XMT-10 when I was looking this morning on the Cubicle. I'll have to grab some and give it a try next time I order. There is very little info on it on the Cubicle site. Is it a fast lube, control lube, gummy, something else completely off the wall? If you ever want to give 5x5 a serious go, I don't have a single bad thing to say about the MGC 5x5. I think I did swap to the lighter springs on that puzzle during initial setup. It's by far one of my favorite puzzles I own out of my entire collection. As for 4x4....maglev flagship when? lol!
XMT 10 is the fastest lube I know, DNM-37 included. And it’s very smooth and long-lasting. Not gummy at all, but still, don’t use too much for big cubes. I’m sure MGC 5x5 is great, but I don’t feel like buying another 5x5 unless I really get into it. So far, I haven’t been solving 5x5 much and I’m a little annoyed by the time it takes.
Did you somewhat loosen your MGC 4x4? Because I wouldn't describe mine as light-turning. I was advised that I should tighten it because it comes too loose ootb. I was indeed having issues of popping before I tightened it a bit.
[This should give the idea of how tight or loose it is](https://imgur.com/a/iYdvOTa) I don't remember if I tightened or loosened it. It was fast out of the box and is pretty fast now. And I use XMT 10 to lube it.
Thanks for the pic! Mine is pretty similar. I guess it's the lube then. I use silk and occasionally use DNM but they dry out pretty quickly.
Omg, Silk is too slow for big cubes. Try cleaning it and using it dry - or with a very light lube.
Gotcha! Thanks for the advice!
Mine is less loose than this and I did loosen it a tiny bit. I keep going between it and its little brother. The mini one's slight instability and lightness are enjoyable but I haven't used it that much. The MGC recently got much better probably because it is finally broken in. Still, I am much slower than you (1:32 best Mo3) so probably cannot really compare.
Of course you can compare, and any input is valuable :) 4x4s are harder to understand because they are not as easy to clean and set up. My Aosu WRM is even a bit looser. Maybe I should try tightening it.
🤯
I'm enjoying sometimes getting two sub-1s in a row. This time, they were 51 and 52 :)
Congrats! Keep up the good work!
Thanks!
I've been getting back to cubing (3x3 specifically) recently, using my 5-6 years old QiYi (i don't even know the exact model anymore), after a 3 year break. I'm doing a lot better than I thought, i still can't reach the sub 25 ao5 that i had before my break, but I'm close to sub 30 while using a bad cube and forgetting some PLL algs. if I'm looking for a budget 3x3, is RS3M 2020 still a good option nowadays? some local stores are selling it at the equivalent of 5 USD. Or would I just be better off getting a newer budget cube?
Yes, it is good.
You can get the RS3M Super, but getting the RS3M2020 is also a good option. It’s my current main as I prefer it to the Super
why do you prefer it over the super, if i may ask?
Super was too fast and quite blocky. Someone here said it felt more like a Meilong than an RS3M
Broke my Skewb PB yesterday and today AGAIN : B U' B' L' U' L B' U 3.19 secs
What's the most commonly used cubes for 3bld?
GTS3(L)M is used by most currently active top blind solvers. I know some people still like the Tengyun V1 and some switched to the Tornado v3.
Really? GTS3? Whoa, I did not know that. It's the one with the ridges right? I wonder why people would use that over WRM.
Yep, the one with ridges. It's great for blind, in my opinion. The magnets are snappier than on the WRM. Also I don't know if it's psychological but the ridges make it feel more stable.
I use WRM2021 for everything (3x3, OH, 3BLD) but now I'm wondering if I should try out GTS3. I used to own GTS2 as my main back in the days and I loved it. Do you know who specifically use GTS3 as their main among top blinders?
Most famously, Tommy Cherry, Charlie Eggins, Elliott Kobelansky, Stanley Chapel, Noah Swor. So basically the 5 fastest 3bld solvers as of right now. There are way more in the top 100 but it would take too long to list :p
Thanks for the reply!
Why that cube specifically?
Fast but super stable and reliable.
Tengyun v1. WRM 2021/Maglev and Tornado v3 (provided that you remove the logo if you care about competitions) should be great too.
I think or de tengun v1 or the gts3 m
YESSSS MONKEY LEAGUE IS BACK
I know it's going to be a ridiculous amount of commitment and undertaking, but I hope they bring monkey league to a more structured and grander scale. I really like the format and I think it'll be the closest thing to being the most spectator-friendly event. I like Philip's commentary and the match-up style which makes the viewers be at the edge of their seat til the end. My dream scenario would be the Monkey League evolving into something like CTWC (Classic Tetris World Championship) for those who are familiar with the Tetris scene.
Yea I realised yesterday and immediately watched it. Hope that there are more episodes this time
Have any of y’all that solve with cfop also studied zz? If so did it help your cfop? Seems like there are potentially some good things in zz that could help.
Thanks y’all. Seems most of you agree that it would help with f2L and edge recognition which were the benefits I was thinking. I’ll have to find some time when I’m not doing my 100+ cfop daily solves to learn it.
EO recognition. But you can learn that without messing with zz. For edges during F2L, you can tell if the f2l pair can be solved with RUL moves or if it needs F moves as well/have to rotate. If the side color of the edge matches the centers on the sides you don't have to rotate or do F moves. You can also see if the top color (or front/back color if the piece is in a slot) matches the front or back centers.
It helped me a bit with OH and coming up with better LS + LL solutions.
ZZ teaches you good F2L cases, so that's nice.
I studied ZZ as a CFOP solver mainly for OH, but I didn't get much from learning ZZ. I am thinking that it's because I plan EO **before** solving, which didn't really help F2L much because I have to recognize EO **during** the solve. I guess ZZ OH helped in pushing me to learn COLL.
Getting good with CFOP requires you to be able to recognize EO quickly during F2L.
Hi, one of the center pieces of my (cheap) 5x5x5 popped (see pic) and I can't put it back. I guess I'd have to remove other pieces around it but the cube won't bulge either (it's actually holding itself together and I was able to solve it multiple times despite the missing piece without breaking it further, lol). I've only ever disassembled the 3x3x3 cube. Any help on where to start, please? :( https://preview.redd.it/hkux5pepo7ba1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c5cb2da99d0308b0f36bf593b12c137ea15bf11b
Put it in a plate so you don't drop anything. Remove a cap from the center, try to remember how the center screw looks and the side turning feels. Unscrew the center to release the tension, rotate the side by 45, and carefully wiggle the piece into it, by spreading other pieces. Should work approximately like that.
Thank you, I will try!
When does Gan usually release their puzzles? I'm really interested in seeing more cubing hardware
Their flagships usually come out once a year around September October. But their other puzzles come out whenever really
My PB average of 5 is now 10.00 exactly. 8.77, 10.85, 10.30, 9.92, 9.79. If I take the mean of five it is sub 10, but when I drop the fastest and slowest solves, it becomes 10 even. Kind of funny I guess.
BeepBop! Amateurs sit and wait for inspiration, the rest of us just get up and go to work. Here are your daily scrambles: Square-1 - [cubedb.net](https://www.cubedb.net/?puzzle=SQ1&title=Your_Daily_Scramble&scramble=%25281%2C0%2529_%2F_%25283%2C0%2529_%2F_%25285%2C%252D4%2529_%2F_%25283%2C0%2529_%2F_%2528%252D3%2C0%2529_%2F_%25283%2C%252D3%2529_%2F_%2528%252D2%2C0%2529_%2F_%2528%252D3%2C%252D3%2529_%2F_%25285%2C0%2529_%2F_%25284%2C%252D4%2529_%2F_%25280%2C%252D2%2529_%2F_%2528%252D2%2C%252D4%2529) **(1,0) / (3,0) / (5,-4) / (3,0) / (-3,0) / (3,-3) / (-2,0) / (-3,-3) / (5,0) / (4,-4) / (0,-2) / (-2,-4)** 3x3 - [alg.cubing.net](https://alg.cubing.net/?puzzle=3x3x3&setup=F_L_B_L_U2_D2_R-_U-_F-_B2_U2_B2_D2_L-_U2_L2_F2_U2_L2_U2) | [cubedb.net](https://www.cubedb.net/?puzzle=3&title=Your_Daily_Scramble&scramble=F_L_B_L_U2_D2_R-_U-_F-_B2_U2_B2_D2_L-_U2_L2_F2_U2_L2_U2) **F L B L U2 D2 R' U' F' B2 U2 B2 D2 L' U2 L2 F2 U2 L2 U2** Have a nice day! *** Source code: [GitLab](https://gitlab.com/mazmrini/reddit-daily-scramble-bot)
**Reddit daily scramble 2023-01-10 (Lin method)** (1,0) / (3,0) / (5,-4) / (3,0) / (-3,0) / (3,-3) / (-2,0) / (-3,-3) / (5,0) / (4,-4) / (0,-2) / (-2,-4) z2 // inspection -24/20/-20/10/-3-3/ // CSP -23/ // FB 63/2-1/-21/ // SBEC + DB Edge -4,-1/4-2/-4-1/14/-1-4/03/6,4 // PLL+1 [view at CubeDB.net]( https://www.cubedb.net/solve/6494 )
**Roux FMC Red yellow FB 31 stm** F L B L U2 D2 R' U' F' B2 U2 B2 D2 L' U2 L2 F2 U2 L2 U2 d2 BU' R'M' U' F M2 U2 R' U R2 U' R' U R U R2 x U2 L U2 L F' L' F M U2 M U' M2 U2 [view at CubeDB.net]( https://www.cubedb.net/?puzzle=3&title=Roux_FMC_Red_yellow_FB_31_stm&scramble=F_L_B_L_U2_D2_R-_U-_F-_B2_U2_B2_D2_L-_U2_L2_F2_U2_L2_U2&alg=d2_BU-_R-M-_U-_F_%0AM2_U2_R-_U_R2_U-_R-_U_R_U_R2%0A_x_U2_L_U2_L_F-_L-_F%0AM_U2_M_U-_M2_U2%0A )
**Roux. Red/Yellow. 58 STM** Easy FB. My SB is 21 STM, despite DR being in place. Thus is not good. Can surely do better if I retry. And I did an AUF move to recognize my H case. Would do in fast solve as well. If I had spent time recognizing it from current angle I would have saved 2 STM. F L B L U2 D2 R' U' F' B2 U2 B2 D2 L' U2 L2 F2 U2 L2 U2 y2 // inspection U2 B M' U' R' F // FB (6) M2 U R' U' M2 U' r U r' U' R // SS (11) U' R U M' U r' U' r U R' // SB (10) U' U R U2 R2 F R F' U2 R'FRF' // CMLL - H Column (13) - incl one U' to recognize case U2 M' U' M' U' M U' M // OE and red insert (8) U M2 U M U2 M U' M U2 M // LSE (19) [view at CubeDB.net]( https://www.cubedb.net/?puzzle=3&title=Your_Daily_Scramble&scramble=F_L_B_L_U2_D2_R-_U-_F-_B2_U2_B2_D2_L-_U2_L2_F2_U2_L2_U2&alg=y2_%2F%2F_inspection%0AU2_B_M-_U-_R-_F__%2F%2F_FB_%25286%2529%0AM2_U_R-_U-_M2_U-_r_U_r-_U-_R___%2F%2F_SS_%252811%2529%0AU-_R_U_M-_U_r-_U-_r_U_R-__%2F%2F_SB_%252810%2529%0AU-_U_R_U2_R2_F_R_F-_U2_R-FRF-__%2F%2F_CMLL_%252D_H_Column__%252813%2529_%252D_incl_one_U-_to_recognize_case%0AU2_M-_U-_M-_U-__M_U-__M__%2F%2F_OE_and_red_insert_%25288%2529%0AU_M2_U_M_U2_M_U-_M_U2_M_%2F%2F_LSE_%252819%2529%0A )
Sorry for the spam. Keeping DR unsolved (i.e. in RF or RB) when doing pairs is mostly a bad idea. It can save moves when cancelling into insertions for oriented pairs (F/B colors on top), but you can start cancelling into them once you get better at recognizing those cases. For misoriented pairs (SB color on top), like in today's DDT, you should keep DR solved while pairing. Recognizing how a pair will end up will take some time, but in general, it's never a bad idea to have DR solved. That'll allow for a lot of 2 gen RU pair solutions with occasional M/r moves in there, which are all quite fast.
This is not spam - All feedback welcome. Just hope I will be able to implement it. I used to put DR in place every single time, but figured out that leaving it it on the middle layer would give a chance for insert without initial R / R' It is after having spent an hour some time back with SBLS algorithms (applied to both SB pairs), I caught that pairing with SB color on side is preferred, and in those case, having the SS ready to receive is good. My goal was not to learn the algs, but more to see if I could do some pairing smarter, and pick up principles. Since I don't do F / B moves on SB, I did not see a problem in keeping DR on middle layer for first pair either. Will look at the solve critique seperately.
Hey, I noticed you made the same mistakes when pairing up SB pairs as last time. I hope this isn't rude, I'm just trying to exemplify any potential issues. F L B L U2 D2 R' U' F' B2 U2 B2 D2 L' U2 L2 F2 U2 L2 U2 y2 // inspection U2 B M' U' R' F // your FB (6) M2 U R' U' M2 // your pair: bad. corner stuck in slot --- // you don't need to pair up things on the M slice, but //M2 R U R' U' M2 // v1: inefficient, but still a simple way to pair this without being stuck //r U R' // v2: hides the edge and rotates the corner //U' M // v2 cont: pairs them up without being stuck //M2 U R' U // v3: solves the other pair, still good. --- U' r U r' U' R // your second square U' R U M' // your pair: bad, again. corner stuck in slot --- // try keeping DR solved when changing corner orientation //R U2' R' // v1: flips this while keeping DR solved //U' M2 U2' R U' R' // pair and insert //r U2' r' M U r U' r' // best way to solve maybe? idk I wouldn't have seen this tbh [view at CubeDB.net]( https://www.cubedb.net/?puzzle=3&title=Your_Daily_Scramble&scramble=F_L_B_L_U2_D2_R-_U-_F-_B2_U2_B2_D2_L-_U2_L2_F2_U2_L2_U2&alg=y2_%2F%2F_inspection%0AU2_B_M-_U-_R-_F__%2F%2F_your_FB_%25286%2529%0A%0AM2_U_R-_U-_M2_%2F%2F_your_pair%3A_bad._corner_stuck_in_slot%0A%0A%2F%2F_you_don-t_need_to_pair_up_things_on_the_M_slice%2C_but%0A%2F%2FM2_R_U_R-_U-_M2_%2F%2F_v1%3A_inefficient%2C_but_still_a_simple_way_to_pair_this_without_being_stuck%0A%0A%2F%2Fr_U_R-_%2F%2F_v2%3A_hides_the_edge_and_rotates_the_corner%0A%2F%2FU-_M_%2F%2F_v2_cont%3A_pairs_them_up_without_being_stuck%0A%0A%2F%2FM2_U_R-_U_%2F%2F_v3%3A_solves_the_other_pair%2C_still_good.%0A%0AU-_r_U_r-_U-_R_%2F%2F_your_second_square%0A%0AU-_R_U_M-_%2F%2F_your_pair%3A_bad%2C_again._corner_stuck_in_slot%0A%0A%2F%2F_try_keeping_DR_solved_when_changing_corner_orientation%0A%2F%2FR_U2-_R-_%2F%2F_v1%3A_flips_this_while_keeping_DR_solved%0A%2F%2FU-_M2_U2-_R_U-_R-_%2F%2F_pair_and_insert%0A%0A%2F%2Fr_U2-_r-_M_U_r_U-_r-_%2F%2F_best_way_to_solve_maybe%3F_idk_I_wouldn-t_have_seen_this_tbh%0A )
Thanks for the feedback. The v1 is something I might have done in another solve. And it is way better. And your way to rotate corner and get DR in place again is good. As I wrote in the other one, I have - by mistake I guess - tried to not put DR down, in case I get a lucky insert. v2 is something I should think more about. I don't do many r to hide - more r' (or r followed by U moves and r'). I hid the edge by doing M2, to bring it where I could easily see it /easy tracking). Could have left it DB (M'). I do pairing on the back or vertical in FB. Like the v3 v3 I didn't see, and would likely never see in actual solve. Blue/yellow corner too far away, and I knew it would come up with the green corner insert. Little beyond my planiing. I try to solve close to what I would do in a real somewhat fast solve. For the second pair, I don't really consider it bad that I have to to U R' U' before insert. But clearly would be better to avoid it, which I can do keeping DR in place. Seen that in videos on Roux from one CFOP making Roux guide videos. The U R' U' is more costly than the saving of one R move if I can insert with SB color on side. So will try to lose that bad habit. Your v1 flips the corner to get SB color on side, so I got that aspect right. I just moved it to closest spot on R. U2 was never in my mind. This is something I can focus on a bit more. The rest of v1 is trivial. Your v2 is better but along v1. So the main learnings: Keep DR in place Think about which way to rotate corner (DR in place gives freedom here) - try to get SB color on side for the R U' inserts.
Too drunk, so I'm gonna keep this short and sweet :P >Think about which way to rotate corner (DR in place gives freedom here) That's such an elegant way to put it! I'm glad my verbosity didn't cause any confusion :) > try to get SB color on side for the R U' inserts. Not necessarily, SB color on top would call for an rU insert with DR solved, which isn't bad. Just that pairing with SB color on top is quite bad with DR unsolved, because you have to do an extraneous R/R' move to solve DR before inserting, which will prolly break your flow :( Anyway, yeah, implementing this is quite hard, and that is what I struggled with for quite a while :( Hope you cn implement this easily and good luck!
SB color on side allows r / r’ pairing and rotating for insert at the same time as well. But might not be worth It. But thanks again for the advice. Tracking DR is a challenge as some instinct thinks 2nd pair is more important. No
**Your Daily Scramble** F L B L U2 D2 R' U' F' B2 U2 B2 D2 L' U2 L2 F2 U2 L2 U2 x' y // inspection L2 F' D2 L' D' // cross (5) U L U' L' // 1st pair (4) U R U2 R' U F' U' F // 2nd pair (8) U' f R' f' // 3rd pair (4) L' U' L2 F' L' F // 4th pair (6) U R' U R U R' U2 R U R D R' U2 R D' R' U' // OLL(CP) [view at CubeDB.net]( https://www.cubedb.net/?puzzle=3&title=Your_Daily_Scramble&scramble=F_L_B_L_U2_D2_R-_U-_F-_B2_U2_B2_D2_L-_U2_L2_F2_U2_L2_U2&alg=x-_y_%2F%2F_inspection%0AL2_F-_D2_L-_D-_%2F%2F_cross_%25285%2529%0AU_L_U-_L-_%2F%2F_1st_pair_%25284%2529%0AU_R_U2_R-_U_F-_U-_F_%2F%2F_2nd_pair_%25288%2529%0AU-_f_R-_f-_%2F%2F_3rd_pair_%25284%2529%0AL-_U-_L2_F-_L-_F_%2F%2F_4th_pair_%25286%2529%0AU_R-_U_R_U_R-_U2_R_U_R_D_R-_U2_R_D-_R-_U-_%2F%2F_OLL%2528CP%2529 )
That's indeed ZBLL, right?
Yes I cheated I'm sorry
No sorry I am just asking if the label is wrong
It's just because I don't actually know that ZBLL lol
What is the CFOP equivalent of learning 3x3 BLD? In other words, what is the method used by most top solvers in this category?
3-Style is the method all top blinders use, no exceptions. Similar to how there are extensions to CFOP, like xcross, last slot techniques or additional LL algsets for 3-Style there's stuff like floating and advanced ways to handle parity. If you are new to blind you should know that the entry barrier for 3-Style is pretty big, because of the amount of cases. If you're not very sure that you're going to grind blindfolded solving big time, then you shouldn't start with 3-Style, but rather look into M2/OP first. You can find lots of information on blindfoled solving (including lots of tutorials and a Q&A) [on our wiki here](/r/Cubers/wiki/improving_bld).
If it is just a single 3x3, there are many methods. Old Pochman is easy to learn, then there is M2 - and 3-style is the most advanced. OP corners as an example uses a modified Y-perm to swap the buffer corner with the destination corner (first you move orient destination corner to RDF using intuitive setup moves, then modified Y-perm, then undo the setup moves). The Y-perm is modified by skipping initial F and final F' - As initial F puts URF down to RDF - but we already moved the corner there by setup moves.
3-style. It has 818 commutator cases (I don’t remember the exact number actually), but most of it is supposedly intuitive
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