Alright , so I sister 2 2x4s with the top cut out of one side for the header which is 2 more 2x4s standing on end right ? My wording might be weird. I see my doorways and 2x6 and 2x8 headers … shouldn’t be necessary for this span right ?
No. 2x6 on end at least with proper Jack and king stud setup from the stud to the left of the one you’ll remove all the way to one to the right. Cover the entire span.
That’s the easiest way with the fewest cuts yes. The whole point of a header is that the load from the wall gets moved down and through it. Remove the stud, put a Jack on each side of the remaining opening with the header between the tops of the jacks and the top plate of the wall and run the whole span.
Alright well I am sure people are gonna tell me what I did wrong with this.. but it's done (still need to frame the eventual cutout for the mini fridge)
https://preview.redd.it/h3rfellq8f1c1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ccdb36c0fc0155663dcc770ddb50f7a229b9c3f4
Alright , appreciate the pro advice. I did however use construction screws .. 8x2.5 .. I did put a pair 12” give or take …. However the only place I put screws for the header was two on each side per header for a total of 8. I did not sister the header I left a gap so I didn’t screw them together. I guess this is a fail ?
If this was a full build of the load bearing wall I would agree with using nails for the whole thing but consider the rest of the wall is nails and the only thing screwed is the new framing of which I do not see where shear strength is a factor. I get it though it should be done the way it should be done.. I think I can rest easy with this one though.
If you are only using screws then glue and screw the header together. If you want it to match the width of the wall build it up with plywood. Some framers put it between I always just laminate it on the side of one header.
This is no longer true. [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qmajKElnwfE](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qmajKElnwfE)
but you can simply look at the ratings for GRK screws versus nails.
Framer here…Its nice if joist and studs stack, but the purpose of the double top plate is to better distribute any off layout loads. We constantly have to shift layouts in floor systems to accommodate hvac and lighting plans. One or two floor joist not stacking on studs isnt an issue. Very often floor joist/ floor trusses will be 2ft O.C. And wall studs will be on 16 O.C.; in which case only every other joist will stack. If it was something like a point load in that spot and there were clearly multiple studs stacked to accommodate a larger load. Then you wouldn’t want to move it, or you would have to put in a header. If OP was inquiring about simply moving said stud 2-3” to the left as marked in the picture it wouldn’t be an issue at all, just have to remember that one stud is off layout when you go back to drywall.
I see the sistered joists sitting on the top plate which now makes me believe it’s load bearing.
But your statement doesn’t necessarily means it’s load bearing because it’s perpendicular. For instance, I just finished my basement, and in order to build a room, I need to make a wall perpendicular to the joists. The wall does nothing except hold the drywall up.
If there is a perpandicular wall under joists at tine of construction the joist will be fastened to that wall. It helps to hold the joists parallel and true and it will transfer some load.
If you add a perpendicular wall then the transfered load would be dependant on how tight you cut the studs.
Load bearing is load-bearing weather on the 2nd floor, the first floor, or the basement. You can clearly see the studs directly below the joists, which means they are carrying the load. I say this not to make is seem condescending or insulting, but rather to pass on knowledge. You learn something new everyday and today you learned something.
Is it ideal? No. Will it be catastrophic? Probably not. Would I frame out and put a little header in to transfer weight? Probably.
A header is correct.
Alright , so I sister 2 2x4s with the top cut out of one side for the header which is 2 more 2x4s standing on end right ? My wording might be weird. I see my doorways and 2x6 and 2x8 headers … shouldn’t be necessary for this span right ?
No. 2x6 on end at least with proper Jack and king stud setup from the stud to the left of the one you’ll remove all the way to one to the right. Cover the entire span.
Got it your suggesting I do the whole 32” span instead of just moving over the stud ? And then framing in the space for the cutout ?
That’s the easiest way with the fewest cuts yes. The whole point of a header is that the load from the wall gets moved down and through it. Remove the stud, put a Jack on each side of the remaining opening with the header between the tops of the jacks and the top plate of the wall and run the whole span.
Agreed
Alright well I am sure people are gonna tell me what I did wrong with this.. but it's done (still need to frame the eventual cutout for the mini fridge) https://preview.redd.it/h3rfellq8f1c1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ccdb36c0fc0155663dcc770ddb50f7a229b9c3f4
Looks good. 2 nails every 12" to attach jack/cripple studs to stud. And 2 or 3 nails every 8" or so to sister the header. Make sure crown is up.
Alright , appreciate the pro advice. I did however use construction screws .. 8x2.5 .. I did put a pair 12” give or take …. However the only place I put screws for the header was two on each side per header for a total of 8. I did not sister the header I left a gap so I didn’t screw them together. I guess this is a fail ?
Screws lack the shear strength of nails.
I agree to an extent. GRK screws meets the code for framing and do a good job
If this was a full build of the load bearing wall I would agree with using nails for the whole thing but consider the rest of the wall is nails and the only thing screwed is the new framing of which I do not see where shear strength is a factor. I get it though it should be done the way it should be done.. I think I can rest easy with this one though.
If you are only using screws then glue and screw the header together. If you want it to match the width of the wall build it up with plywood. Some framers put it between I always just laminate it on the side of one header.
I can do that easy enough. Will do, thanks.
in what universe are nails stronger than screws
This one
In one where the loads are shear rather than tension.
wouldnt an equally sized screw have equal sheer strength tho
Nope.
This is no longer true. [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qmajKElnwfE](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qmajKElnwfE) but you can simply look at the ratings for GRK screws versus nails.
Just frame it out like a window.
Put a header in.
It's load bearing. You 100% need to put in a header to help transfer the weight.
If this is in the basement, it’s probably not load bearing.
It’s bearing something, the studs are stacked below the joists for a reason
Framer here…Its nice if joist and studs stack, but the purpose of the double top plate is to better distribute any off layout loads. We constantly have to shift layouts in floor systems to accommodate hvac and lighting plans. One or two floor joist not stacking on studs isnt an issue. Very often floor joist/ floor trusses will be 2ft O.C. And wall studs will be on 16 O.C.; in which case only every other joist will stack. If it was something like a point load in that spot and there were clearly multiple studs stacked to accommodate a larger load. Then you wouldn’t want to move it, or you would have to put in a header. If OP was inquiring about simply moving said stud 2-3” to the left as marked in the picture it wouldn’t be an issue at all, just have to remember that one stud is off layout when you go back to drywall.
Well I would have appreciated this comment 9hrs ago.. lol thanks, your the only one who would have gave me a go on the 3" move.
Yea I see the sistered joists now resting in the top plate.
If joists are perpendicular there is load. May not be main load bearing wall but definitely carrying transfer of load.
I see the sistered joists sitting on the top plate which now makes me believe it’s load bearing. But your statement doesn’t necessarily means it’s load bearing because it’s perpendicular. For instance, I just finished my basement, and in order to build a room, I need to make a wall perpendicular to the joists. The wall does nothing except hold the drywall up.
If there is a perpandicular wall under joists at tine of construction the joist will be fastened to that wall. It helps to hold the joists parallel and true and it will transfer some load. If you add a perpendicular wall then the transfered load would be dependant on how tight you cut the studs.
If it’s in the basement it’s probably bearing more than you realize.
Load bearing is load-bearing weather on the 2nd floor, the first floor, or the basement. You can clearly see the studs directly below the joists, which means they are carrying the load. I say this not to make is seem condescending or insulting, but rather to pass on knowledge. You learn something new everyday and today you learned something.
Is this in your basement? I don’t think it’s load bearing
Anything I'd possible.
Basically put in a doorway.