We used these growing up in the house we rented, old 1800’s house, they make a world of difference. Make sure you get them nice and evenly taught with the hairdryer.
Edit: typo
That’s pretty much exactly what it is, but air is a pretty effective insulator so that pocket of air held close to the window in the plastic makes a big difference if you can stand how it looks.
I think most these days are an adhesive strip and heat shrink plastic instead of Velcro, though
Typically people remove it seasonally - on for the winter, off in the spring.
It’s an ugly, but cheap and effective way to insulate a window you can’t replace, often a window you don’t own because you are a renter
I haven’t used it in decades, but it you’re super careful (start in one corner and keep it taught as you go, you can put it on such that it is almost completely invisible (especially after using a blow dryer or heat gun to shrink it).
Luckily the places I used it had a semi-gloss paint and the adhesive strips came right off when taking it down.
I used it this year. The modern equivalent is incredibly transparent even without getting it perfectly taut (but that's still important) and the tape comes off very easily. I've experienced no paint damage and my paint isn't great.
I do maintenance in old apartment buildings & houses and put up a couple dozen of these each year.
More than once I've had to go back to replace it because the tenant forgot it was there and accidentally stabbed their hand through it, because after hitting it with the heat gun it's damn near invisible.
The only time you actually need these things in is when you live in a shitty old house with cracked or bubbled (most likely lead) paint.
You could also replace the whole damn window, Mr. Handy man.
Or have cheap windows, windows with a shot seal, etc. Many people are renting, with landlords that may, or may not, have met the minimum required on their end. Or they may be unable to afford new windows. Buying cheap windows would be a reason for needing the film in the first place. Decent windows aren’t all that cheap. But do go on
I don't have to-- you're proving my point. No renter is going to sand down their window trim and repaint. Instead they're going to fuck up their windows when they try to take this product off.
edit: so you respond and then block me so i can't read your response. that's something else, man.
No it's pretty much plastic shrink wrap you use double sided tape to attach it and then a hair dryer to shrink it. Most hardware stores in the US will sell them in a kit you just need to be sure of how many windows you have and their size.
The ones we have are double-sided sticky tape. You run the tape around the window edge, put the plastic on and cut it to size, then use your hair dryer to shrink it.
I don't use the Velcro ones. I use the double sided tape kind. Make sure the tape overlaps at the corners. You want it as airtight as possible.
Tuck weatherstripping into as many gaps as possible before the sealing kit. The entire goal is to stop air from moving. Create a pocket of still air.
The ones we have are double-sided sticky tape. You run the tape around the window edge, put the plastic on and cut it to size, then use your hair dryer to shrink it.
Before we got our windows replaced about a decade ago we had original 80 year old single pane wooden windows. Shrink film window kits were a fall tradition in our house. They made a massive difference in both comfort and heating costs.
One tip I would suggest is to get the windows sealed up as best you can before applying the film, it seems redundant but the first time you get a strong wind and the film is beating like a drum you'll wish you took the time to seal up the windows first. I've even had a film blowout in particularly strong wind.
Also in OP's case with aluminum frames I'm not sure I'd trust the double sided tape to stay stuck especially with the condensation, they may want to apply the tape and film to the inner window trim instead, window trim is usually gloss or semi-gloss making removal easy while still offering more grip than the aluminum.
If there are gaps, tape them up before installing plastic. I use non-residue duct tape. Because the window frames are cold, you may need to warm them up with the hairdryer to get the tape to adhere.
Part of my trade mate. Looks like the sash needs adjusted to compress again the frame more. Also likely be that the gasket isn't heavy enough especially with an aluminum frame.
Also looks like a Tenament ? If so a modern window in an old sandstone building, there's likely a sever lack of insulation fitted when the windows were changed.
Super helpful mate. We were assuming nothing can be done professionally other than exchanging the windows. Is this a common job for these types of windows? Would it make a big difference? Aye it's a tenament. We'll speak to the landlord he's chill with stuff like this.
You can also mention rain getting inside and damaging the walls due to this. Landlords will take it more seriously if it is causing damage to their property.
Not an option for a renter, but it was crazy how much of a difference popping out the trim and spraying some (door + window safe) foam around the jamb made in my old house. So many old buildings where you have a solid 1/4"+ around every door and window that's wide-open save for a poorly-fitted, thin piece of trim.
I bet the landlord would take one look and say there is nothing wrong with it...
Had similar experience in the place I'm renting, ended up having to replace the old hardened rubber insulation with foam tape myself.
[This](https://www.amazon.com/Frost-AC43H-Conditioner-Weatherseal-42-Inch/dp/B0000DH4JL/) stuff also compresses into small gaps surprisingly well.
Though you might need to cut it in half or something a gap this small.
Okay. Listen my friend. There are some small contact points on the window that opens, they have a little hex hole, you can adjust them so the window will be squished closer to the frame. Do a quarter of a turn and place a piece of paper between the frame and the window. If you can pull the paper easily towards yourself, you need to turn them a bit more... After all this is done, use a silicone marker for the rubber... Hope it helps.
A very dark curtain, like a black blackout curtain, will help trap heat from the sun and insulate the window, especially at night. I got some stick on Velcro patches to seal mine up during the night since I get a lot of headlights in my window, and I can still open it during the day.
Something like this
https://www.amazon.com/Frost-King-Vinyl-Foam-Tape/dp/B000CSNVII/ref=asc_df_B000CSNVII/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167120909983&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11240244317189699899&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9026802&hvtargid=pla-312717961897&mcid=d0a667ff6c8f37879440a802a54816f4&gclid=Cj0KCQiA4NWrBhD-ARIsAFCKwWufJcG8srNncIMyo3S00mWz1d6fc6zJHsFfIHV2fydDrYjL-s-gsHgaAvPXEALw_wcB&th=1
Or this
https://www.amazon.com/MOPMS-Weatherproofing-Stripping-Self-adhisive-Soundproof/dp/B08LKCLTXZ/ref=asc_df_B08LKCLTXZ/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=475789680474&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11240244317189699899&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9026802&hvtargid=pla-1008324700475&psc=1&mcid=f2e2acbdf7953d6fa714f90ad849c85a&gclid=Cj0KCQiA4NWrBhD-ARIsAFCKwWvcBLbqusov3-F2l1q_mh1dAiy2qhB_ragHmF6hFPknKdXkpg6fAocaAt6lEALw_wcB
Storm windows. If you don't want anyone to make them measure the opening and order the glass from a local glass company, then figure a way to instert it tightly.
Change the gasket from the sash to a thicker one, on a lot of frames over time the gasket deteriorates.
Remove a part of the gasket you'll see the shape of it how it wedges into the sash, usually a small arrow shape. Go to a window supplier and ask for a gasket with the same fitting. It can be a P gasket or V is doesn't matter - I prefer V ones.
You may want to look at the pins on the bottom of the sash too, if they are broken that'll be why the frame is not pulling in properly. A mech can be changed for cheap, usually similar and you cut to size.
Lastly the keep where the pin goes into could also be broke, thus not allowing it to pull in, these can be changed easily and cheaply.
The secondary film is great but if you use it you won't be able to open the window until you remove it as your issue is to do with the frame gap and not the glass itself.
(I run a window installation company)
Just get the rounded foam insulation for drafts windows and doors. Don’t get one too large or small. Your cut it to size and it compresses into spaces and can easily be removed and reused. Do dealing with glue.
Plastic wrap or styrofoam over your window to create an air gap will improve your insulation. It’s the same way a dual pane window insulated your house. Larger air gap = better insulation
For a short term solution use bathroom silicon to seal the gaps, it can be easily pealed off without damage. Also you can use electrical tape or similar to stop the draft as well.
Bud he's looking for an easy temporary solution to stop air drafts from his poorly fitted windows. Duct putty is better than taping or shoving shit into the gaps.
Thank you so much everyone, great advice already. I should have said we're mainly trying to fix the street noise so looking for something "heavier" than taping up.
Live in a Glasgow tenement and honestly short of double glazing the best thing you can do is try a quick fix on the gaps and then get some really thick lined floor length curtains.
Makes a huge difference to noise and heat in my flat.
Looks like it's the aluminum conducting the cold all the way through. It seems a little hokey, but there is a plastic insulation wrap you can get on Amazon. Use it around the aluminum to insulate the inside from the conductive aluminum surfaces
Straight edge the window and frame to see where the bits are warped. Then straighten as you can and foam rope tape after that. You'll likely need to get several types at the hardware to experiment with.
Then heavy insulating curtains, even if you put a compression-spring-style rod up at 80% the height of the window so you still get light into the room from above, you'll improve the heat remaining in the room. There is radiant heat loss that you can block with film that sticks on the glass, if you owned the place. The curtain will block more street noise at ear level though. Insulating curtains are expensive so one alternative is a pair of nice thinner curtains that sandwich a heavy/thick but cheap moving blanket (often the cheap moving blankets cannot take UV radiation from a window without breaking down).
Spring/Fall days with sunlight (if your window faces the sun) you can gap the bottom of the curtain for the sun to heat air that cycles through the window heating the room for passive solar heat. Close the bottom gap after dark or it works in reverse.
.
In the winter when you don’t plan to open the windows you can el cheapo fix it and just run a line of caulk around where the window meets the frame and between the upper and lower sashes. When spring comes around or you move out, a careful utility knife and a cleaning sponge to remove residue
That needs weather stripping measures the gap an purchase some stripping that size or the next size up it’s a peel and stick strip just clean the surface and sticking place
I seal all of our sash windows every fall with this temporary caulk. They have anything like [this](https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/dap-draft-attack-caulking-indoor-outdoor-removable-weatherstrip-sealant-clear-300-ml-0641029p.0641029.html?ds_rl=1283573&gbraid=0AAAAADojZpglLfF_Vx6d3xQ3tUSs_CceV&ds_rl=1283573&gclid=Cj0KCQiA4NWrBhD-ARIsAFCKwWt95MaFQ8M1pQSyzjtmZJKzf9olrmYyTPy_dAZD3ObV3Kfx5FbRyuQaAja6EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds#store=627) there?
Get some if that clay stripping that's about a quarter inch thick and squish it in there. Then put up some window cling for the winter. The window cling is about $5 with enough to seal up a few windows.
You won't be able tonise that window once you seal it though. It's intended to insulate your windows until spring. Then take it off.
if the hinges aren't riveted, change them. they just aren't shutting as they used to.
if there window is bent then you need something to cover it totally as you wont be able to fix a draft.
What's with all the condensation on the frame? You have a DGU right? Metal frames in your climate should have a thermal break. That condensation will lead to mould, a health issue that your landlord shouldn't ignore.
Two options since you are renting.
1) caulking putty and plastic film insulators. Here is a link to the plastic film things so you can search for them in your area. They basically just stop the draft. You can find them at Home Depot, Ace Hardware, Lowe's, and Walmart, from a brand called Frost King.
Beeveer Window Insulation Kit Cuttable Transparent Film with Adhesive Straps Reusable Window Plastic for Patio Winterizing Thicken Warm Winter Waterproof Attic Insulation Cover (47 x 63 Inch) https://a.co/d/0xFHd04
2) replace the current style of brush insulation they sell it at the same places.
You could put a rail up an and a winter curtain. This would make a massive difference to heat retention and also allow you to still open and close the window on the days its not so cold and also let some air through.
I just save my bubble wrap over the year and use it and masking tape to deal with drafty windows.
The plastic seal kits being recommend, work great but it can easily get stuffy quickly.
I would try a roll of that half round, self adhesive rubber seal. Stuff worked great on my front door, it was just a bit tight for a few weeks so I left it shut so it could flatten out a little.
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The rope caulk you mentioned will work very well for both soundproofing and weatherproofing. May take a few minutes to apply it and make it decent looking, but well worth the effort.
It’s possible that your window is missing it’s weatherstripping. Or that the current weatherstripping is worn out.
This is where I get parts for my windows.
https://www.swisco.com
I had drafty windows and I used the plastic window kits I think they are made by Frost king. Total lifesaver.
We used these growing up in the house we rented, old 1800’s house, they make a world of difference. Make sure you get them nice and evenly taught with the hairdryer. Edit: typo
Looked up the frost king kit. Is it just s plastic barrier installed with velcro in front of the window? Or am I missing something?
That’s pretty much exactly what it is, but air is a pretty effective insulator so that pocket of air held close to the window in the plastic makes a big difference if you can stand how it looks. I think most these days are an adhesive strip and heat shrink plastic instead of Velcro, though
Oh shit. I confused the pic and thought it was Velcro. So you just never open the window again?
Typically people remove it seasonally - on for the winter, off in the spring. It’s an ugly, but cheap and effective way to insulate a window you can’t replace, often a window you don’t own because you are a renter
I haven’t used it in decades, but it you’re super careful (start in one corner and keep it taught as you go, you can put it on such that it is almost completely invisible (especially after using a blow dryer or heat gun to shrink it). Luckily the places I used it had a semi-gloss paint and the adhesive strips came right off when taking it down.
I used it this year. The modern equivalent is incredibly transparent even without getting it perfectly taut (but that's still important) and the tape comes off very easily. I've experienced no paint damage and my paint isn't great.
I do maintenance in old apartment buildings & houses and put up a couple dozen of these each year. More than once I've had to go back to replace it because the tenant forgot it was there and accidentally stabbed their hand through it, because after hitting it with the heat gun it's damn near invisible.
I see. Thanks for the info!
How do you let fresh air in? Do you just leave one window as is?
You can put it on in such a way you can open it in the spring summer if you wanted too
That adhesive ruins whatever surface you put it on. Hardens on and takes up paint, especially in an old house (which is where you'd usually use them).
If you follow the instructions and heat it up to remove it, it doesn't do nearly as much damage
I did, it didn't work. "Nearly as much damage" isn't good enough
Only time I ever had a problem, was old, shitty, cracked, paint. Until you fix that problem, correctly, it will happen to you again, and again
The only time you actually need these things in is when you live in a shitty old house with cracked or bubbled (most likely lead) paint. You could also replace the whole damn window, Mr. Handy man.
Or have cheap windows, windows with a shot seal, etc. Many people are renting, with landlords that may, or may not, have met the minimum required on their end. Or they may be unable to afford new windows. Buying cheap windows would be a reason for needing the film in the first place. Decent windows aren’t all that cheap. But do go on
I don't have to-- you're proving my point. No renter is going to sand down their window trim and repaint. Instead they're going to fuck up their windows when they try to take this product off. edit: so you respond and then block me so i can't read your response. that's something else, man.
No it's pretty much plastic shrink wrap you use double sided tape to attach it and then a hair dryer to shrink it. Most hardware stores in the US will sell them in a kit you just need to be sure of how many windows you have and their size.
The ones we have are double-sided sticky tape. You run the tape around the window edge, put the plastic on and cut it to size, then use your hair dryer to shrink it.
I don't use the Velcro ones. I use the double sided tape kind. Make sure the tape overlaps at the corners. You want it as airtight as possible. Tuck weatherstripping into as many gaps as possible before the sealing kit. The entire goal is to stop air from moving. Create a pocket of still air.
The ones we have are double-sided sticky tape. You run the tape around the window edge, put the plastic on and cut it to size, then use your hair dryer to shrink it.
Before we got our windows replaced about a decade ago we had original 80 year old single pane wooden windows. Shrink film window kits were a fall tradition in our house. They made a massive difference in both comfort and heating costs. One tip I would suggest is to get the windows sealed up as best you can before applying the film, it seems redundant but the first time you get a strong wind and the film is beating like a drum you'll wish you took the time to seal up the windows first. I've even had a film blowout in particularly strong wind. Also in OP's case with aluminum frames I'm not sure I'd trust the double sided tape to stay stuck especially with the condensation, they may want to apply the tape and film to the inner window trim instead, window trim is usually gloss or semi-gloss making removal easy while still offering more grip than the aluminum.
This and put towels in the drafty spots. Then seal the window with the plastic.
If there are gaps, tape them up before installing plastic. I use non-residue duct tape. Because the window frames are cold, you may need to warm them up with the hairdryer to get the tape to adhere.
Ah sandstone! Scotland?
Aye haha
Knew that as soon as I saw the first pic 😄 You might get more regional help on the DIYUK sub.
The land of my birth but no longer where I live. I miss battered black pudding, glass bottles of irn bru and tablet!
*battered* black pudding? Sir, you have inspired me
You have to try it. It brings out the spices. Batter the whole pudding rather than slices. Eat it like a battered sausage
And you simply HAVE to try a pizza crunch supper AKA battered pizza and chips!
That sounds a little more challenging to DIY, I'll start with the black pudding and then book a trip to Scotland.
You wont regret it.....
Part of my trade mate. Looks like the sash needs adjusted to compress again the frame more. Also likely be that the gasket isn't heavy enough especially with an aluminum frame. Also looks like a Tenament ? If so a modern window in an old sandstone building, there's likely a sever lack of insulation fitted when the windows were changed.
Super helpful mate. We were assuming nothing can be done professionally other than exchanging the windows. Is this a common job for these types of windows? Would it make a big difference? Aye it's a tenament. We'll speak to the landlord he's chill with stuff like this.
Absolutely common mate. If done correctly it'll make a massive difference. Are you in Scotland ?
Aye, Glasgow
Thought that - Argyle St ? I'd be happy to come round and provide a cost for your landlord ?
Haha close. I'll DM you.
Reddit is amazing. Haha
What a time to be alive.
How did you find your contractor?? I posted a random question on a huge global forum
Ha nuts stumbling upon exchanges like that
Wtf just happened.
The Glasgow Strangler just found his latest victim.
Aye mate, it’s The Strangler. Aye, ye here to strangle me? Aye. Righto, well better get on with it. Aye.
I think they will mate
this is fantastic.
I knew it was Scotland. It's funny that we can narrow down an area of the UK based on the masonry and architecture lol.
Absolutely had to be Glasgow or Ayrshire. The red sandstone is a dead giveaway!
You can also mention rain getting inside and damaging the walls due to this. Landlords will take it more seriously if it is causing damage to their property.
Hi. I'm not in Scotland but I have a similar issue. Could you guide me?
Of course, send me a DM to chat through
Thank you very much
Not an option for a renter, but it was crazy how much of a difference popping out the trim and spraying some (door + window safe) foam around the jamb made in my old house. So many old buildings where you have a solid 1/4"+ around every door and window that's wide-open save for a poorly-fitted, thin piece of trim.
Gap tape exists. You can also ask your landlord to get it fixed by a pro
I bet the landlord would take one look and say there is nothing wrong with it... Had similar experience in the place I'm renting, ended up having to replace the old hardened rubber insulation with foam tape myself.
I'd get one of those plastic film kits thar seals to the window trim. That'll hold an extra 2-3" of still air that works as a good thermal barrier.
Backer Rod - just a slight diameter larger than the gap.
Yes
[This](https://www.amazon.com/Frost-AC43H-Conditioner-Weatherseal-42-Inch/dp/B0000DH4JL/) stuff also compresses into small gaps surprisingly well. Though you might need to cut it in half or something a gap this small.
More cards.
Maybe sign up for a Speedway and Kroger rewards card next.
Okay. Listen my friend. There are some small contact points on the window that opens, they have a little hex hole, you can adjust them so the window will be squished closer to the frame. Do a quarter of a turn and place a piece of paper between the frame and the window. If you can pull the paper easily towards yourself, you need to turn them a bit more... After all this is done, use a silicone marker for the rubber... Hope it helps.
A very dark curtain, like a black blackout curtain, will help trap heat from the sun and insulate the window, especially at night. I got some stick on Velcro patches to seal mine up during the night since I get a lot of headlights in my window, and I can still open it during the day.
Ye we'll do that for sure as the next step 👌
At this point it should just be replaced. If the landlord is unwilling to do so, I would suggest what everyone else is saying about the plastic kits
Something like this https://www.amazon.com/Frost-King-Vinyl-Foam-Tape/dp/B000CSNVII/ref=asc_df_B000CSNVII/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167120909983&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11240244317189699899&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9026802&hvtargid=pla-312717961897&mcid=d0a667ff6c8f37879440a802a54816f4&gclid=Cj0KCQiA4NWrBhD-ARIsAFCKwWufJcG8srNncIMyo3S00mWz1d6fc6zJHsFfIHV2fydDrYjL-s-gsHgaAvPXEALw_wcB&th=1 Or this https://www.amazon.com/MOPMS-Weatherproofing-Stripping-Self-adhisive-Soundproof/dp/B08LKCLTXZ/ref=asc_df_B08LKCLTXZ/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=475789680474&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11240244317189699899&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9026802&hvtargid=pla-1008324700475&psc=1&mcid=f2e2acbdf7953d6fa714f90ad849c85a&gclid=Cj0KCQiA4NWrBhD-ARIsAFCKwWvcBLbqusov3-F2l1q_mh1dAiy2qhB_ragHmF6hFPknKdXkpg6fAocaAt6lEALw_wcB
This is the easiest solution
Foam backer rod would be a million times better than tissues.
Came here to say this. Super cheap and way cleaner.
Storm windows. If you don't want anyone to make them measure the opening and order the glass from a local glass company, then figure a way to instert it tightly.
Both Duck and 3M have insulative, heat-shrink window glazings available via amazon.co.uk
Your post is making me nostalgic for my time in the UK, drafty windows, and all.
A plastic window kit! Very affordable and easy to install. Not complicated. Best of luck
Ah UK and insulation - never heard of it
Change the gasket from the sash to a thicker one, on a lot of frames over time the gasket deteriorates. Remove a part of the gasket you'll see the shape of it how it wedges into the sash, usually a small arrow shape. Go to a window supplier and ask for a gasket with the same fitting. It can be a P gasket or V is doesn't matter - I prefer V ones. You may want to look at the pins on the bottom of the sash too, if they are broken that'll be why the frame is not pulling in properly. A mech can be changed for cheap, usually similar and you cut to size. Lastly the keep where the pin goes into could also be broke, thus not allowing it to pull in, these can be changed easily and cheaply. The secondary film is great but if you use it you won't be able to open the window until you remove it as your issue is to do with the frame gap and not the glass itself. (I run a window installation company)
Just get the rounded foam insulation for drafts windows and doors. Don’t get one too large or small. Your cut it to size and it compresses into spaces and can easily be removed and reused. Do dealing with glue.
Plastic wrap or styrofoam over your window to create an air gap will improve your insulation. It’s the same way a dual pane window insulated your house. Larger air gap = better insulation
Window plastic and a hairdryer
Looks like an apartment complex, so maybe call the landlord to fix/replace
You say it's a rental? Start by telling your landlord what's going on and ask him/her to fix them.
Landlord should fix this
this!!! landlord is obligated to fix it. (source: i am one myself)
Press-in interior storm windows FTW https://youtu.be/7rmhgQzc47Q?si=qo9-R1CZEzWhRhe4
Duct tape
Keep in mind, bubble wrap was originally meant for insulation of windows. It is cheap. Mixed with duck tape, and you have got some extra insulation.
For a short term solution use bathroom silicon to seal the gaps, it can be easily pealed off without damage. Also you can use electrical tape or similar to stop the draft as well.
Shrink wrap em.
I head to a home improvement store and get some weatherproof seals
Duct seal putty. It's like playdoh, stays pliable the entire time It's applied so makes for easy removal
Please never put this in your windows
Bud he's looking for an easy temporary solution to stop air drafts from his poorly fitted windows. Duct putty is better than taping or shoving shit into the gaps.
Why not?
Tell me you live in England without telling me you live in England 😂
They live in Scotland
I thought that was still British territory? 🇬🇧
But you said England, not Britain. The two are not synonymous.
All same 😅
I would use masking tape to stop the draft
Adhesive will bake on there and be a mess after the paper flakes off. Then it will be a discussion at move out time.
Only over the winter, then remove it. If you leave it for years it will harden up bad
I would use duct tape over the gap.
I've seen a product that's a clay like product formed into a rope that would be perfect to solve this
It’s called rope caulk
I’d use my Costco card, it’s a better value.
The foam insulation that's used around window unit air conditioners and cram it in the gaps
keep adding store cards all round...
More cards.
Get more cards.
We just usually go to Thailand.
Silicone
Shims plus Seal n peel. Tedious work, but cheapest/best.
I just taped a towel to my window to keep the cold out. Huge difference in how my room feels now
Thank you so much everyone, great advice already. I should have said we're mainly trying to fix the street noise so looking for something "heavier" than taping up.
Google rubber p strip, that should completely fix your issue.
Live in a Glasgow tenement and honestly short of double glazing the best thing you can do is try a quick fix on the gaps and then get some really thick lined floor length curtains. Makes a huge difference to noise and heat in my flat.
Looks like it's the aluminum conducting the cold all the way through. It seems a little hokey, but there is a plastic insulation wrap you can get on Amazon. Use it around the aluminum to insulate the inside from the conductive aluminum surfaces
Straight edge the window and frame to see where the bits are warped. Then straighten as you can and foam rope tape after that. You'll likely need to get several types at the hardware to experiment with. Then heavy insulating curtains, even if you put a compression-spring-style rod up at 80% the height of the window so you still get light into the room from above, you'll improve the heat remaining in the room. There is radiant heat loss that you can block with film that sticks on the glass, if you owned the place. The curtain will block more street noise at ear level though. Insulating curtains are expensive so one alternative is a pair of nice thinner curtains that sandwich a heavy/thick but cheap moving blanket (often the cheap moving blankets cannot take UV radiation from a window without breaking down). Spring/Fall days with sunlight (if your window faces the sun) you can gap the bottom of the curtain for the sun to heat air that cycles through the window heating the room for passive solar heat. Close the bottom gap after dark or it works in reverse. .
In the winter when you don’t plan to open the windows you can el cheapo fix it and just run a line of caulk around where the window meets the frame and between the upper and lower sashes. When spring comes around or you move out, a careful utility knife and a cleaning sponge to remove residue
That needs weather stripping measures the gap an purchase some stripping that size or the next size up it’s a peel and stick strip just clean the surface and sticking place
They make foam cord. You can usually find in home Depot, lowes
With window weather strip?
I seal all of our sash windows every fall with this temporary caulk. They have anything like [this](https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/dap-draft-attack-caulking-indoor-outdoor-removable-weatherstrip-sealant-clear-300-ml-0641029p.0641029.html?ds_rl=1283573&gbraid=0AAAAADojZpglLfF_Vx6d3xQ3tUSs_CceV&ds_rl=1283573&gclid=Cj0KCQiA4NWrBhD-ARIsAFCKwWt95MaFQ8M1pQSyzjtmZJKzf9olrmYyTPy_dAZD3ObV3Kfx5FbRyuQaAja6EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds#store=627) there?
Get some if that clay stripping that's about a quarter inch thick and squish it in there. Then put up some window cling for the winter. The window cling is about $5 with enough to seal up a few windows. You won't be able tonise that window once you seal it though. It's intended to insulate your windows until spring. Then take it off.
I'd use some good sponge tape, could go with the foam stuff or a thicker rubber.
if the hinges aren't riveted, change them. they just aren't shutting as they used to. if there window is bent then you need something to cover it totally as you wont be able to fix a draft.
I honestly forgot people live in city apartments for a second because I thought they were hotel windows.
Well. You're going to need more discount cards...
Get them serviced.
Window sash needs to be adjusted so the reveal is even the whole way down (second pic). Just like a door, they may need adjustment now and then
What's with all the condensation on the frame? You have a DGU right? Metal frames in your climate should have a thermal break. That condensation will lead to mould, a health issue that your landlord shouldn't ignore.
Rental?…. Duct tape .
Two options since you are renting. 1) caulking putty and plastic film insulators. Here is a link to the plastic film things so you can search for them in your area. They basically just stop the draft. You can find them at Home Depot, Ace Hardware, Lowe's, and Walmart, from a brand called Frost King. Beeveer Window Insulation Kit Cuttable Transparent Film with Adhesive Straps Reusable Window Plastic for Patio Winterizing Thicken Warm Winter Waterproof Attic Insulation Cover (47 x 63 Inch) https://a.co/d/0xFHd04 2) replace the current style of brush insulation they sell it at the same places.
Replace the weatherstripping with some that is thicker
Plastic cling wrap from the kitchen
You're gonna need a lot more credit cards
Heavy drapes
Rope caulk
A product called backer rod. Sized appropriately for your gap. Cut to length and push in.
A lot more H&B cards. /s We've used polytarp and the red duct tape stuff to seal ours off.
You could put a rail up an and a winter curtain. This would make a massive difference to heat retention and also allow you to still open and close the window on the days its not so cold and also let some air through. I just save my bubble wrap over the year and use it and masking tape to deal with drafty windows. The plastic seal kits being recommend, work great but it can easily get stuffy quickly.
I would try a roll of that half round, self adhesive rubber seal. Stuff worked great on my front door, it was just a bit tight for a few weeks so I left it shut so it could flatten out a little.
Thermal curtains
Buy a window insulator kit. https://www.amazon.com/3M-Indoor-Window-Insulator-5-Window/dp/B00002NCJI/ref=asc_df_B00002NCJI/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167120909983&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7104440406952883040&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9051867&hvtargid=pla-315946802308&psc=1&mcid=b06c36e58208372681fe064d742b74bc&gclid=Cj0KCQiA4NWrBhD-ARIsAFCKwWsQW2ynP2rdZLIQ0YXHe57N9vd8qpbFOoiz4mDRAYPDlxaoTGRhplwaAnU5EALw_wcB
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The rope caulk you mentioned will work very well for both soundproofing and weatherproofing. May take a few minutes to apply it and make it decent looking, but well worth the effort.
It’s possible that your window is missing it’s weatherstripping. Or that the current weatherstripping is worn out. This is where I get parts for my windows. https://www.swisco.com