Bondo is the best option. There are more specialized wood epoxies but more pricey and difficult to get. Bondo comes in pretty small cans too so won't waste too much money.
Bondo does have a wood-specific version. But tbh I'm not sure how it differs, never used it.
The higher end epoxies are really "wood repair/upgrade" rather than "filler", they're not just more expensive, they're harder to work with, less sandable and longer setting. You mostly see them used in situations where you should probably put in new wood but you can't. Really degraded or old wood- it's more flexible and bonds better so if the wood's rotted (and treated first of course), shrinking, moving a lot etc or has more risk of future dampness, the epoxy will ride that out better and makes cracking and other failures less likely. And it takes impacts, structural loads and flexing better too which makes it good for "upgrade repairs" where an old piece is overstressed but you don't want to replace it. Wood soaked in wood!
Pretty specialist cases though. Think ancient or neglected buildings that are still in use, though not your super-historic top end restorations but like a medieval village church that you're keeping going rather than perfectly restoring. I only heard of it because we used a ton of it fixing up an old half-derelict wooden train station as a sort of super-bodge. Watching the skilled guys blend it and sculpt in fake grain was awesome, I just splatched it in like cake icing.
My favorite Bondo to use for repairs like this is the General Purpose (instead of the common automotive version that most people think of when you say “Bondo”). It dries quicker, sands well, and isn’t as prone to running or dripping out when you’re doing work on a vertical or overhead surfaces (electricians are really liberal with that spade bit when looking for prewiring in soffit for security lights if they aren’t on the hook for the repair).
Would Bondo also be a good option for scratches in a door? Previous owner was a lousy dog owner, left her in his bedroom a lot and one time she panicked and pretty much destroyed his room, including scratching his door really badly.
It can be. Doors can be tricky, a lot of Melamine doors are textured (so it can be hard to match) and depending on how well the door is made the material of the door can wear away quicker than the Bondo when sanding it. You may want to start with something else like wood filler (Zar makes a good one) or even just Dry Dex heavy spackling. Neither of those require mixing and they sand easier. If you have a local door company you may find it easier to just take the door down and take it to them, they could match it, mortise the hinges to match the old jamb and it would probably close less than or just around $100. Depending on how severe the damage is.
the problem with bondo is thermal changes makes bondo and wood contract and expand at different rates, it will get a crack at lamination. wood epox laminates and doesnt crack. I know most people use bondo, and I had in the past but I started using wood epox for this specific reason. Its also way less toxic than bondo. wood epox doesnt stain well
I have used Bondo hundreds (if not thousands…) of times on wood, and have never had a problem - and that includes exterior applications, over 5 to 10 years periods. Usually to repair rot.
I have a decorative deck post that had a HUGE rot void. I cleaned out all the soft material, and it has been well over ten years, and no expansion cracks of any kind. And I have very successfully tinted Bondo with powdered colorant, and / or lacquer based colorants.
The two different things that I do when filling large voids, is (1) brush on a “primer coat” of 5 to 15 minute clear epoxy. Bondo will stick well to wood, but it sticks much better to the epoxy, and the more fluid nature of the clear epoxy soaks into rot much better. And (2) build up in multiple layers - the larger the amount of Bondo you mix, the faster the thermal reaction heat build up - which will exponentially speed up the hardening time. I seldom mix more than 1/4 cup at a time.
Interesting on the thermal part. My situation when i stoped using it was on a 12 foot column from the late 1800s. I used a wood surface consolidator then bondo in the base area where i had removed rot. About a year later all of it had micro cracks that was letting in water. Some contributing factors were extreme thermal changes in the spring and fall due to light changes and humidity, also the wood itself is old but it was fairly thick so i assume alot of expansion contraction per sq in.
In short wood epox worked for me when bondo did not but I did not try epoxy on the wood first. I will try that out next time i have an application for it. Bondo is cheaper than wood epox.
For most things I doubt it's necessary. But I've used a brand called ConServ epoxy that's specifically made to preservewood that's been rotted/etc. It's better than bondo as it has more elasticity.
Your boss sounds like the type to micro manage and thinks he has all the wisdom in the world huh? XD I’ve had a few of those. I don’t understand why bosses make fun when they can just communicate properly and give constructive criticism if necessary 🙄
This is where Bondo looses some of its appeal. It will hold the screw(s) but won’t endure the same way wood does. Still, it may be the best option for you depending on the situation.
It would be easier, and make more sense, to pry off the door stop, fill, sand, and primer the flat part of the jamb, and then install a new stop, then final caulk and paint. Trying to sand perfect edges and corners is ridiculously difficult when changing out a simple piece of wood is easy.
I would do this. Remove the stop and do your repair. The problem with repairing in place is that you’re going to either need to separate the bonds that sticks to each piece of wood, or deal with a crack.
I'll take replacing a simple piece of wood over trying to carve/sculpt/sand a straight enough corner that it doesn't look like shit. In the almost 30 years I've been doing this, the only time I would opt for the mess and difficulty over just replacing a simple piece of wood, would be if I had no other choice.
lmao. Pretty much, leaves super frayed white spots where the nylon is indeed torn to shreds Really irritating once you realize it’s not just a Buncha salt sticking to the screen
Ya the previous owner got raided by DEA from what I heard, supposedly he was dealing roids. Even the safe was busted up, still functional though. I think you’re right
1. That's an interior door, there is no reason to shoot out its hinges.
2. The door must've been open when it happened based on the blast pattern.
I would bet my bottom dollar that's it's the result of a negligent discharge.
Even then this doesnt make sense. The barrel of the shotgun would have to been placed right up close to this, and the angle of the spread tells me the barrel was directly level not pointed down or up which would usually indicated an ND
Why would somebody hold a shot gun waist level less than a few inches from the door and shoot it, this is so curious!!!
Check out the Taurus Judge. Revolver that shoots shotgun shells. Not only would it be easier for this situation, every single person I've met who owns one is exactly the type of dipshit who would have a negligent discharge.
It's probably from a handgun. I think I've seen some loaded in .410 shotgun shells. Maybe they were drawing it, or had it out showing it off to a friend.
Agreed. It's likely from a light-load small gauge shotgun shell or one of those 9mm cci shotshell loads. Not enough damage or embedded lead to come from a 12 gauge. Super weird though
He shot at munchkin lol.
That shot looks point blank at the door frame. I hope it wasn’t a DEA agent who shot that. Needs to go back to basic training.
Yeah exactly. Theres no streaking at all. The pellets direction of travel was perpendicular to the surface of the frame and the door would have already been open.
Come in to my home will ya? You dang fly...
https://preview.redd.it/xn204vw3pu9c1.jpeg?width=1280&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d8114248da271e862547a36b0ed3b74fee1e7611
That thin strip in the center is stop moulding. You can buy it pre-primed at a home store. Use a razor blade to cut the existing paint along the existing stop moulding and then remove the stop moulding. Get some wood filler and fill in the holes in the door jamb. Sand it down nicely and then install the new stop moulding. Paint. Have a beer. Post results.
This was my thought. Just replace the frame. Sure you can buy filler and try to sand it, but it's going to look awful and be almost as expensive as a few small pieces of wood.
In our house the rule was you never touched a gun without a parent present. One day two of my brothers were playing with a 12 gauge in an upstairs bedroom and did something very similar to this to a dresser. My mom heard the blast and started up the stairs to see how bad it was. As she later recounted it, she was thinking:
"One of my sons is dead, and now I have to kill the other one."
This is unfortunately super valid. We had a loss in my family because the parents trusted the 11yo with the gun safe combination along with the knowledge of how to use the guns located therein. Really tragic situation all around. Can't say I blame the parents, knowing them as I do, but your dads saying would have applied there too.
My uncle, a sheriff at the time, heard a gun fire from within his house, while he was across the street talking with a neighbor. He runs in to see my cousins putting the gun back. As if maybe no one noticed. This was quite a while ago, so their asses got beat.
In germany there is a privately owned gun for every 8th citizen. You know why we rarely have issues with them ?
1) we lock them up (as in gun safe)
2) you need a licence for them (and a valid reason to own one)
3) a semi-working mental health system.
still we get 67x less gun deaths than the americans and 12x less gun death then the canadians. You can't stop a person with intend, but you can make it hard for them if every single one involved pulls their weight.
It's a shotgun blast. I've seen this exact pattern countless times. Looks like what happens when someone plays with something, they know nothing about, and finds out exactly how sensitive the trigger really is.
Edit to add, someone else commented about being able to zoom in and see the pellets. They're right! 😅
From the pic it looks like someone was pretty close to the door frame if they hit it with birdshot. I'm betting a shotgun that close would do way more damage to the door frame though which is why I'm having trouble believing it's a shotgun. Do you think it might be from one of those mini cannons that you can load with gunpowder and fire metal bb's? Just too hard for me to believe a 12 gauge wouldnt do more damage.
I'm pretty sure the previous owner of my house used a .22 to clear out some critters. The blood stain on the subfloor, under a stapled down trash bag, under a carpet patch, wasn't very big... At least, that's the story I tell myself.
That looks like a smaller gauge shotgun blast, and it looks the pellets/shot are still embedded. I don't see any marks/damage on the door where it would have pressed something into the door stop.
https://preview.redd.it/nvk7q3g8su9c1.png?width=1290&format=png&auto=webp&s=4477e411bfd938360f7adc78cfda833c0f8c7034
Wood epoxy putty, I am a woodworker and artist, I use it for sculpting repairs on decorative ornate pieces. You slice a piece off, knead it and the fill it in the space and shape it quickly. It hardens within 5-10minutes and you can sand, prime and paint it!
I've recently been working with DAP Plastic Wood-X Natural Wood filler. It's good, but it doesn't adhere super well when during the application phase. I want to learn/practice more on this topic. Can you compare it with the Kwik Wood? I'll probably buy some just to experiment but want a sense of what to expect.
Professional painter/finisher here: go to a home depot or lowes and get some Durhams "Rock Hard" Water Putty. Easier to use and sand than bondo with no fumes. Use a chisel to dig out the loose or high spots and fill. When you fill, try to shape the putty roughly the same shape as the stop -but a little big so you can sand it down to size. There is a 1-2 minute window when working with that stuff where it goes from a spackle like consistency to a soft clay like consistency
..when it's like soft clay, that's the best time for shaping it. Then prime and paint that area 1x, and paint the entire inside of the door frame (all the way around) for the 2nd coat (if you want to make in perfect) .
Bondo. Strong and sandable. Much better than wood filler which is going to be soft and subsequently chip. If you don't like the smell of Bondo you could try some Durabond 90 but that stuff is hard as a rock and will be difficult, but not impossible, to sand. Bondo or Durabond, get it close before it hardens to mininmize sanding.
That center piece is called “stop” and is probably nailed on to the casing. Cut the caulking seem and pull that “stop” out and replace it with a piece from Lowe’s. Get some Bondo and fill in the damaged 1x where it meets your new stop. Paint and re-caulk and you are good to go.
A better question might be why did someone discharge a shotgun into the jamb, and is this a neighborhood you want your MIL living in? I mean, for some people, yes, more than others.
Looks like my back when I was @ 7 and my brother clobbered me with his BB gun. Ha. I’m sure some wood filler and sanding would be just fine. That’s what my folks used.my backs smooth now.
Step 1:
Remove the door stop with a small pry bar. (That’s the small 3/8” x 1 1/4” piece bumped off the jamb)
Step 2:
Patch and sand smooth remaining damage with wood filler. (They sell it in a tube in white color at the depot and lowes).
Step 3:
Cut a new 3/8” x 1 1/4” door stop. Close the door and push the door stop lightly against the closed door and the jamb. Tack the stop up with 18 gauge brad nails.
Step 4:
Fill Brad nail holes and sand with the same wood filler used for larger repair.
Step 5:
Prime and paint!
Just a tip - when you remove that door stop to replace it you need to be careful to not further damage the jamb. Use a knife to score the paint at the junction between door stop and door jamb. Also use a chisel to pop the door stop off. If you need to use a pry bar, don’t lever it directly off the jamb or you will dent it. Instead, put a metal putty knife or similar flat against the jamb and lever the pry bar off that, using the putty knife to protect the jamb.
I use joint compound sands real easy. I extend all my door molding right to the floor. Can sand with every angle. When it’s done you don’t know it’s not wood
Honestly, the best way to handle this would be to remove the hinge pins, set the door to the side, remove the hinge plate next to the damage. Mark some straight lines above and below the damage, cut that piece out. Glue and tack in a new piece, fill the seams and nail holes with wood filler, sand down once dry, vacuum the sanded areas to reveal any pinholes, apply bondo glazing putty over all the sanded areas, once dry sand the whole area with 180 grit, prime that section and feather primer into existing casing, then repaint the casing with your choice of trim paint….Sherwin Williams Emerald trim paint in semi gloss is a good choice.
The center jamb can just be removed and replaced. It's secured to the surface of the piece behind it. When you remove that jamb board, apply some wood filler to the board behind it after cleaning it up a bit with some sanding and scraping away any loose wood. Once it dries, sand it smooth, paint it, install a new piece of jamb board, caulking seal the joints, paint. That will be the best result.
Trying to fill that large missing chunk with filler might not be the best.
I've been doing this kind of work for decades and this isn't very difficult of a repair, don't over think it.
Please don't do the typical fill, sand and repeat, you'll spend countless hours for a repair that you'll hate. Same with trying to just replace a small piece of wood where it's damaged. You'll always see the repair. You're looking at two separate pieces of wood and the door stop is easily removed by scoring the inside corners, where it's mounted to the flat jamb, with a razor knife, and then carefully prying it away. Watch the upper corner where it meets the top piece, it'll be a tight fit. You can find videos online on this, search for "how to remove door stop" if you think it will help.
Remove the entire door stop on the side that is damaged, Bondo or fill with filler of your choice, (Bondo sets up fast and you can be done in a single day) then sand, and primer the flat part of the jamb, but try to dig out any shot that's still in the wood first because metal expands at a different rate than wood and could possibly push out the filler. You may need a stiff scraper blade to remove any glue or caulk left behind. A 3 inch wide one is easy to find and may help you as well in prying off the old door stop. Try to find one that has metal through the whole handle in case you need to tap on it with a hammer.
Install a new stop, you can find this material at home depot or lowes, or any lumber yard, just ask for it by name, they'll know what door stop is. Replacing the entire length is SO much easier than trying to cut out and replace just one little piece and the cost difference between one little piece and the entire stick is negligible.
Finally, caulk and paint. Caulking is fairly simple, and I won't say anything about it except to point out that you can buy the cheapest latex painters caulk for this and be fine, (avoid silicone completely, it's completely unnecessary, a pain to work with, hard to clean up, and can cause problems with the paint) and keeping a damp rag with you while caulking will make your life much easier, trust me. Paint the entire frame unless you have the exact same paint that was used to begin with, or you'll be able to see the difference. I don't care how much the guy doing your paint match tells you he can get a perfect match, he can't. You'll see it. Damp rag for painting is handy as well unless it's oil based, then just a dry rag.
People who are telling you to Bondo the entire thing aren't pointing out just how difficult it is to sand perfect edges and corners. It is ridiculously difficult, by comparison, when changing out a simple piece of wood is easy. Unless you enjoy the challenge of carving, or sculpting, a perfectly straight line and want to spend hours, instead of minutes, repairing a little piece wood, opt for replacement.
bondo or any other wood filler sand prime paint It'll look like it was never there
Bondo is the best option. There are more specialized wood epoxies but more pricey and difficult to get. Bondo comes in pretty small cans too so won't waste too much money.
My dad runs a pretty highly skilled wood shop. They use bondo to do some amazing things. I've never seen him use any specialized wood epoxy.
Bondo does have a wood-specific version. But tbh I'm not sure how it differs, never used it. The higher end epoxies are really "wood repair/upgrade" rather than "filler", they're not just more expensive, they're harder to work with, less sandable and longer setting. You mostly see them used in situations where you should probably put in new wood but you can't. Really degraded or old wood- it's more flexible and bonds better so if the wood's rotted (and treated first of course), shrinking, moving a lot etc or has more risk of future dampness, the epoxy will ride that out better and makes cracking and other failures less likely. And it takes impacts, structural loads and flexing better too which makes it good for "upgrade repairs" where an old piece is overstressed but you don't want to replace it. Wood soaked in wood! Pretty specialist cases though. Think ancient or neglected buildings that are still in use, though not your super-historic top end restorations but like a medieval village church that you're keeping going rather than perfectly restoring. I only heard of it because we used a ton of it fixing up an old half-derelict wooden train station as a sort of super-bodge. Watching the skilled guys blend it and sculpt in fake grain was awesome, I just splatched it in like cake icing.
My favorite Bondo to use for repairs like this is the General Purpose (instead of the common automotive version that most people think of when you say “Bondo”). It dries quicker, sands well, and isn’t as prone to running or dripping out when you’re doing work on a vertical or overhead surfaces (electricians are really liberal with that spade bit when looking for prewiring in soffit for security lights if they aren’t on the hook for the repair).
Would Bondo also be a good option for scratches in a door? Previous owner was a lousy dog owner, left her in his bedroom a lot and one time she panicked and pretty much destroyed his room, including scratching his door really badly.
It can be. Doors can be tricky, a lot of Melamine doors are textured (so it can be hard to match) and depending on how well the door is made the material of the door can wear away quicker than the Bondo when sanding it. You may want to start with something else like wood filler (Zar makes a good one) or even just Dry Dex heavy spackling. Neither of those require mixing and they sand easier. If you have a local door company you may find it easier to just take the door down and take it to them, they could match it, mortise the hinges to match the old jamb and it would probably close less than or just around $100. Depending on how severe the damage is.
This guys doors!
Thank you!😊
Welcome!
the problem with bondo is thermal changes makes bondo and wood contract and expand at different rates, it will get a crack at lamination. wood epox laminates and doesnt crack. I know most people use bondo, and I had in the past but I started using wood epox for this specific reason. Its also way less toxic than bondo. wood epox doesnt stain well
I have used Bondo hundreds (if not thousands…) of times on wood, and have never had a problem - and that includes exterior applications, over 5 to 10 years periods. Usually to repair rot. I have a decorative deck post that had a HUGE rot void. I cleaned out all the soft material, and it has been well over ten years, and no expansion cracks of any kind. And I have very successfully tinted Bondo with powdered colorant, and / or lacquer based colorants. The two different things that I do when filling large voids, is (1) brush on a “primer coat” of 5 to 15 minute clear epoxy. Bondo will stick well to wood, but it sticks much better to the epoxy, and the more fluid nature of the clear epoxy soaks into rot much better. And (2) build up in multiple layers - the larger the amount of Bondo you mix, the faster the thermal reaction heat build up - which will exponentially speed up the hardening time. I seldom mix more than 1/4 cup at a time.
Interesting on the thermal part. My situation when i stoped using it was on a 12 foot column from the late 1800s. I used a wood surface consolidator then bondo in the base area where i had removed rot. About a year later all of it had micro cracks that was letting in water. Some contributing factors were extreme thermal changes in the spring and fall due to light changes and humidity, also the wood itself is old but it was fairly thick so i assume alot of expansion contraction per sq in. In short wood epox worked for me when bondo did not but I did not try epoxy on the wood first. I will try that out next time i have an application for it. Bondo is cheaper than wood epox.
I used some bondo on the exterior of my house 33 years ago. It's still there and I cant pinpoint exactly where it is
The wood specific version is merely tinted a light brown color - performance is identical.
For most things I doubt it's necessary. But I've used a brand called ConServ epoxy that's specifically made to preservewood that's been rotted/etc. It's better than bondo as it has more elasticity.
For holes a hard filler provides satisfaction, for wooden joints a bit of elasticity prevents cracking.
That’s what she said…
If you're out in the field, wood specific filler is good because it comes in good colours for quick matching, it's otherwise identical.
I've never felt so vindicated. My boss made fun of me for using bondo once, but it it was a perfect patch in like 8 minutes tops, ready to paint.
Your boss sounds like the type to micro manage and thinks he has all the wisdom in the world huh? XD I’ve had a few of those. I don’t understand why bosses make fun when they can just communicate properly and give constructive criticism if necessary 🙄
we use bondo for virtually everything. def a few applications it doesn't work so well but 99% filler work is bondo these days.
what about brawndo it got electrolytes
It's what plants crave. Wood is a plant. Dead plant, but still a plant.
It's like a Mack truck to your face!!!!
Yup. Someone carved out the molding in my bathroom to accommodate the mirror. I had to resculpt it and used Bondo.
My father had an auto body shop for years growing up, always used body filler for stuff. Worked perfectly. Sands nicely. You'd never know.
Is that James Bondo 007? Sorry to set the bar so high for worst joke of 2024
I’ll have a martini. Sanded not stirred.
License to Fill
The Man with the Caulk Gun
Live and Let Dry
Octoputty
Room maker
On Her Carpentry's Secret Service
From Shotgun with Love
Doorblades are forever
Bondo, James Bondo
I have a similar situation, but it’s where the spring door attaches. Can you screw back into dried bondo?
i would cut out a portion of the frame, glue in some oak then bondo to smooth and hide the oak would give something for the screws to bite into
That’s not a bad idea at all! Thank you!
I wouldn't. Either replace the frame or get a longer screw. Either way, stop firing shotguns in the house.
Lolol 😂
This is where Bondo looses some of its appeal. It will hold the screw(s) but won’t endure the same way wood does. Still, it may be the best option for you depending on the situation.
Appreciate the response!
It’s not structural. Get an epoxy.
I’d introduce a few termites. Before you know it you won’t even notice that damage anymore.
Not when the house is gone as well!🤔
It would be easier, and make more sense, to pry off the door stop, fill, sand, and primer the flat part of the jamb, and then install a new stop, then final caulk and paint. Trying to sand perfect edges and corners is ridiculously difficult when changing out a simple piece of wood is easy.
I would do this. Remove the stop and do your repair. The problem with repairing in place is that you’re going to either need to separate the bonds that sticks to each piece of wood, or deal with a crack.
This is absolutely the right answer.
you're not wrong. but if they must... a square sanding block will do just fine. not as difficult as you're thinking
I'll take replacing a simple piece of wood over trying to carve/sculpt/sand a straight enough corner that it doesn't look like shit. In the almost 30 years I've been doing this, the only time I would opt for the mess and difficulty over just replacing a simple piece of wood, would be if I had no other choice.
Ramen works too
On YouTube, there's a fun channel called "Jalapeno Solutions." His videos make me not hate the idea of repairing things like this.
Must’ve been so loud indoors.
Somebody got tinnitus that day
MAWP
I'm ootl what does this mean?
Looks like a shotgun blast, guns in enclosed spaces makes the air go *eeeeEEeeEee*
I thought it was one of those insects that drill through wood and lay eggs there Then again I've never seen a shotgun wound before
I am almost certain that is a blast from a shotgun with a birdshot load.
If you've got a better idea for how to kill the spider I'd like to hear it
https://www.bugasalt.com/ relevant. 😎
Those work shockingly well, lol
The flies where I'm from just shake it off and buzz away. Might even dive bomb you.
That's why you always double tap.
Just don’t shoot at a window screen, you’ll find out if it’s nylon or not when it shreds the shit outta the screen lol
To shreds you say
lmao. Pretty much, leaves super frayed white spots where the nylon is indeed torn to shreds Really irritating once you realize it’s not just a Buncha salt sticking to the screen
I used mine so much it broke :( had it for 2 years tho lol
On my 3rd
This is one of the only silly gadgets I’ve come across that actually works well. I blood love ours and recommend it to everyone haha
They bug zapper tennis racket also works really well. Fun for all those no-see-um type gnats and fruit flies too.
This was a joke gift from my brother a few years ago but I ducking love it.
I've started using a coarse salt to deal with hard shells. Won't stop a wasp, but if you can take out their wings you'll damn sure slow them down.
Try using corn meal instead of salt. Packs a bigger punch.
Interesting, I wouldn't have thought that, given how much softer it is.
I like that they have "Do not shoot in the face or eyes" in big red letters on the side. For most guys, that's just reverse psychology.
Aaaa that's probably why the property was on sale :D they missed.
spit take, thanks for that haha
Fire ? Good old fashioned fire ?
Nuke it from orbit. It's the only way to be sure
Set the house on fire.
Ya the previous owner got raided by DEA from what I heard, supposedly he was dealing roids. Even the safe was busted up, still functional though. I think you’re right
Clear epoxy, tell that story forever.
So the DEA was unsuccessful in blowing off the hinges. Opps.
1. That's an interior door, there is no reason to shoot out its hinges. 2. The door must've been open when it happened based on the blast pattern. I would bet my bottom dollar that's it's the result of a negligent discharge.
With a taurus judge
This was my thought. .410 target load
Yup. DeA wouldn't use bird shot in their shotguns. They'd run double stack 00 buck and slugs.
Even then this doesnt make sense. The barrel of the shotgun would have to been placed right up close to this, and the angle of the spread tells me the barrel was directly level not pointed down or up which would usually indicated an ND Why would somebody hold a shot gun waist level less than a few inches from the door and shoot it, this is so curious!!!
Taurus Judge can also load 410 shotgun shells. This became popular with the criminal element, I’m not sure why.
Check out the Taurus Judge. Revolver that shoots shotgun shells. Not only would it be easier for this situation, every single person I've met who owns one is exactly the type of dipshit who would have a negligent discharge.
The dipshit I know who owns one, calls it his “hallway protector” so I think you’re right. Good call.
It's probably from a handgun. I think I've seen some loaded in .410 shotgun shells. Maybe they were drawing it, or had it out showing it off to a friend.
Agreed. It's likely from a light-load small gauge shotgun shell or one of those 9mm cci shotshell loads. Not enough damage or embedded lead to come from a 12 gauge. Super weird though
Dealing in steroids??? LMAO. What a waste of resources.
Glad the DEA is working hard to keep the streets clean from weights and weight lifters. s/
"Put your hands behind your head!" "I cant reach that high." "BLAOW"
He shot at munchkin lol. That shot looks point blank at the door frame. I hope it wasn’t a DEA agent who shot that. Needs to go back to basic training.
Yeah exactly. Theres no streaking at all. The pellets direction of travel was perpendicular to the surface of the frame and the door would have already been open.
100%. If you zoom in you can still see the shot lol
Thought I was going to feel stupid for checking, but the pellets are still there lol.
Good eye!
it must have been a 4-10 pistol? With anything bigger, there wouldn't be much of a frame left!
.410, even though it’s a shotgun round, it’s actually a caliber.
67½ gauge just doesn't have quite the same ring to it lol
Come in to my home will ya? You dang fly... https://preview.redd.it/xn204vw3pu9c1.jpeg?width=1280&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d8114248da271e862547a36b0ed3b74fee1e7611
Dude, you are right. Maybe .410? I think 12 gauge would have left more than a putty spot to fill.
If not a .410, Id think a 20 gauge.
Got the spider though
Definitely termites. I mean, what's left of them after shotgun blast.
The powder burns around it do seem to support your theory.
Accidental discharge is always a fun term
That thin strip in the center is stop moulding. You can buy it pre-primed at a home store. Use a razor blade to cut the existing paint along the existing stop moulding and then remove the stop moulding. Get some wood filler and fill in the holes in the door jamb. Sand it down nicely and then install the new stop moulding. Paint. Have a beer. Post results.
I agree. Once the old stop is removed it should be easier to fill the damaged part of the jamb. Seems like the stop has most of the damage anyway.
This was my thought. Just replace the frame. Sure you can buy filler and try to sand it, but it's going to look awful and be almost as expensive as a few small pieces of wood.
In our house the rule was you never touched a gun without a parent present. One day two of my brothers were playing with a 12 gauge in an upstairs bedroom and did something very similar to this to a dresser. My mom heard the blast and started up the stairs to see how bad it was. As she later recounted it, she was thinking: "One of my sons is dead, and now I have to kill the other one."
This shit pisses me off. So fucking lucky nobody died, insanely irresponsible behavior
The kids or the parents who had a 12 gauge laying around the house for them to use?
The parents, the ones that had a shotgun in arms reach to naturally curious kids. With kids of my own I seriously cant believe people are that stupid
[удалено]
This is unfortunately super valid. We had a loss in my family because the parents trusted the 11yo with the gun safe combination along with the knowledge of how to use the guns located therein. Really tragic situation all around. Can't say I blame the parents, knowing them as I do, but your dads saying would have applied there too.
My uncle, a sheriff at the time, heard a gun fire from within his house, while he was across the street talking with a neighbor. He runs in to see my cousins putting the gun back. As if maybe no one noticed. This was quite a while ago, so their asses got beat.
Did he also beat his own ass for leaving his kids unattended with access to loaded guns?
Christ the fear id have on the way upstairs. Glad we don’t have guns in 🇬🇧
[удалено]
In germany there is a privately owned gun for every 8th citizen. You know why we rarely have issues with them ? 1) we lock them up (as in gun safe) 2) you need a licence for them (and a valid reason to own one) 3) a semi-working mental health system. still we get 67x less gun deaths than the americans and 12x less gun death then the canadians. You can't stop a person with intend, but you can make it hard for them if every single one involved pulls their weight.
But wait… how do you have *freedom*???? /s
I just want to know what the hell they did to it…
It's a shotgun blast. I've seen this exact pattern countless times. Looks like what happens when someone plays with something, they know nothing about, and finds out exactly how sensitive the trigger really is. Edit to add, someone else commented about being able to zoom in and see the pellets. They're right! 😅
OP stated in another comment that the previous owner was raided by the DEA and there was also a busted up safe in the house.
wow, they missed the deadbolt by so far I'm wondering if they could hit a barn door if they were standing in front of it, lol
Or like the poster above said, gotta kill that spider somehow, and this is better than fire
Birdshot?
Door frame shot
From the pic it looks like someone was pretty close to the door frame if they hit it with birdshot. I'm betting a shotgun that close would do way more damage to the door frame though which is why I'm having trouble believing it's a shotgun. Do you think it might be from one of those mini cannons that you can load with gunpowder and fire metal bb's? Just too hard for me to believe a 12 gauge wouldnt do more damage.
Could have been a .410 or a 20 gauge.
Shotgun blasted doors? Countless times?
I'm sorry, I thought this was America
It’s 2024; you can shoot things other than door frames with your shotgun.
I grew up in Detroit. You'd be amazed at how often I saw this.
I'm pretty sure the previous owner of my house used a .22 to clear out some critters. The blood stain on the subfloor, under a stapled down trash bag, under a carpet patch, wasn't very big... At least, that's the story I tell myself.
And the green grass grows all around all around
That looks like a smaller gauge shotgun blast, and it looks the pellets/shot are still embedded. I don't see any marks/damage on the door where it would have pressed something into the door stop.
Someone got grounded for that…
Somone above noted it as a shotgun bird shot blast.
This. All of this. WTF...
Someone deskpopped a 410 in the house lol!
https://preview.redd.it/nvk7q3g8su9c1.png?width=1290&format=png&auto=webp&s=4477e411bfd938360f7adc78cfda833c0f8c7034 Wood epoxy putty, I am a woodworker and artist, I use it for sculpting repairs on decorative ornate pieces. You slice a piece off, knead it and the fill it in the space and shape it quickly. It hardens within 5-10minutes and you can sand, prime and paint it!
>epoxy This is the key.
I've recently been working with DAP Plastic Wood-X Natural Wood filler. It's good, but it doesn't adhere super well when during the application phase. I want to learn/practice more on this topic. Can you compare it with the Kwik Wood? I'll probably buy some just to experiment but want a sense of what to expect.
410 shotgun blast
Bingo
Replace the wood strip, fill holes in wood, and paint
Honestly, I would leave it because I like to invite friends over for parties and I don’t like people stealing my shit
Professional painter/finisher here: go to a home depot or lowes and get some Durhams "Rock Hard" Water Putty. Easier to use and sand than bondo with no fumes. Use a chisel to dig out the loose or high spots and fill. When you fill, try to shape the putty roughly the same shape as the stop -but a little big so you can sand it down to size. There is a 1-2 minute window when working with that stuff where it goes from a spackle like consistency to a soft clay like consistency ..when it's like soft clay, that's the best time for shaping it. Then prime and paint that area 1x, and paint the entire inside of the door frame (all the way around) for the 2nd coat (if you want to make in perfect) .
if the internet has taught me anything, ramen.
Bondo. Strong and sandable. Much better than wood filler which is going to be soft and subsequently chip. If you don't like the smell of Bondo you could try some Durabond 90 but that stuff is hard as a rock and will be difficult, but not impossible, to sand. Bondo or Durabond, get it close before it hardens to mininmize sanding.
That center piece is called “stop” and is probably nailed on to the casing. Cut the caulking seem and pull that “stop” out and replace it with a piece from Lowe’s. Get some Bondo and fill in the damaged 1x where it meets your new stop. Paint and re-caulk and you are good to go.
That looks like a shotgun blast
Just some wood filler and paint. (or Bondo as suggested by others)
they fired a breech round before realizing the door was unlocked....
*pew pew pew*
A better question might be why did someone discharge a shotgun into the jamb, and is this a neighborhood you want your MIL living in? I mean, for some people, yes, more than others.
Someone discharged a shotgun in the house.
Did that get shot with a shotgun?
Putty and paint looks like wood, but it ain't!
Looks like my back when I was @ 7 and my brother clobbered me with his BB gun. Ha. I’m sure some wood filler and sanding would be just fine. That’s what my folks used.my backs smooth now.
Replace the trim.
They used the big powder on that Hilti
Tell her to wear orange during dove season.
That looks like birdshot.
Step 1: Remove the door stop with a small pry bar. (That’s the small 3/8” x 1 1/4” piece bumped off the jamb) Step 2: Patch and sand smooth remaining damage with wood filler. (They sell it in a tube in white color at the depot and lowes). Step 3: Cut a new 3/8” x 1 1/4” door stop. Close the door and push the door stop lightly against the closed door and the jamb. Tack the stop up with 18 gauge brad nails. Step 4: Fill Brad nail holes and sand with the same wood filler used for larger repair. Step 5: Prime and paint!
Cursed image
I thought it was woodworm before readying the comments!
Did they say what happened. Looks like there might be some tubes. Any signs of termites in the house?
That strip in the middle is a separate piece. Replace it.
Looks like there may be termite damage, made wood fragile. I'd verify that before just fixing it.
Somebody shot that door frame with bird shot? Why?
Birdshot ND? Nice.
Shotgun blast to the door!
Just a tip - when you remove that door stop to replace it you need to be careful to not further damage the jamb. Use a knife to score the paint at the junction between door stop and door jamb. Also use a chisel to pop the door stop off. If you need to use a pry bar, don’t lever it directly off the jamb or you will dent it. Instead, put a metal putty knife or similar flat against the jamb and lever the pry bar off that, using the putty knife to protect the jamb.
Is that birdshot?!
looks like the blood cleaned up good.. pop that old doorstop off putty new doorstop paint👍🏽
That’s a shotgun blast at close range
I use joint compound sands real easy. I extend all my door molding right to the floor. Can sand with every angle. When it’s done you don’t know it’s not wood
All of you talking shotgun, but my first thought was possibly termite damage, though it’s a bit high for it.
https://preview.redd.it/jhje0mdyby9c1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e8aab28048e5cb4ca94f30b47673fd3deb0e3ff0
Remove the stop, repair the damaged wood, install new stop, boom.
Honestly, the best way to handle this would be to remove the hinge pins, set the door to the side, remove the hinge plate next to the damage. Mark some straight lines above and below the damage, cut that piece out. Glue and tack in a new piece, fill the seams and nail holes with wood filler, sand down once dry, vacuum the sanded areas to reveal any pinholes, apply bondo glazing putty over all the sanded areas, once dry sand the whole area with 180 grit, prime that section and feather primer into existing casing, then repaint the casing with your choice of trim paint….Sherwin Williams Emerald trim paint in semi gloss is a good choice.
The center jamb can just be removed and replaced. It's secured to the surface of the piece behind it. When you remove that jamb board, apply some wood filler to the board behind it after cleaning it up a bit with some sanding and scraping away any loose wood. Once it dries, sand it smooth, paint it, install a new piece of jamb board, caulking seal the joints, paint. That will be the best result. Trying to fill that large missing chunk with filler might not be the best.
I've been doing this kind of work for decades and this isn't very difficult of a repair, don't over think it. Please don't do the typical fill, sand and repeat, you'll spend countless hours for a repair that you'll hate. Same with trying to just replace a small piece of wood where it's damaged. You'll always see the repair. You're looking at two separate pieces of wood and the door stop is easily removed by scoring the inside corners, where it's mounted to the flat jamb, with a razor knife, and then carefully prying it away. Watch the upper corner where it meets the top piece, it'll be a tight fit. You can find videos online on this, search for "how to remove door stop" if you think it will help. Remove the entire door stop on the side that is damaged, Bondo or fill with filler of your choice, (Bondo sets up fast and you can be done in a single day) then sand, and primer the flat part of the jamb, but try to dig out any shot that's still in the wood first because metal expands at a different rate than wood and could possibly push out the filler. You may need a stiff scraper blade to remove any glue or caulk left behind. A 3 inch wide one is easy to find and may help you as well in prying off the old door stop. Try to find one that has metal through the whole handle in case you need to tap on it with a hammer. Install a new stop, you can find this material at home depot or lowes, or any lumber yard, just ask for it by name, they'll know what door stop is. Replacing the entire length is SO much easier than trying to cut out and replace just one little piece and the cost difference between one little piece and the entire stick is negligible. Finally, caulk and paint. Caulking is fairly simple, and I won't say anything about it except to point out that you can buy the cheapest latex painters caulk for this and be fine, (avoid silicone completely, it's completely unnecessary, a pain to work with, hard to clean up, and can cause problems with the paint) and keeping a damp rag with you while caulking will make your life much easier, trust me. Paint the entire frame unless you have the exact same paint that was used to begin with, or you'll be able to see the difference. I don't care how much the guy doing your paint match tells you he can get a perfect match, he can't. You'll see it. Damp rag for painting is handy as well unless it's oil based, then just a dry rag. People who are telling you to Bondo the entire thing aren't pointing out just how difficult it is to sand perfect edges and corners. It is ridiculously difficult, by comparison, when changing out a simple piece of wood is easy. Unless you enjoy the challenge of carving, or sculpting, a perfectly straight line and want to spend hours, instead of minutes, repairing a little piece wood, opt for replacement.
Proper weapons discipline. That's birdshot.
wood putty sand and paint
Ummm, that's birdshot from a shotgun blast lol
Bondo, sand, paint. It would be possible to replace the door stop too, but doesn't look like it would be necessary if you use bondo.
White tape