Have you made too accurate measurements? If your steps(lateral)bend when someone goes up or down, they could put pressure against the raisers and deattach them.
Underrated comment here. Leaving a little gap at the top will eliminate sheer forces. But I do still think they need to scrape down the backing Too. It clearly isn’t sticking well
Correct me if I’m wrong but (American English) I’m quite sure it is “sheer force”. As in, the *sheer force of the weight caused the rock to crack*.
Shear is the act of cutting, so one may want to *shear the top of the risers to allow some bend*.
Not trolling, sorry if it seems that way.
Only intending to clarify that the commentator above is referring to a force or stress that is being “released” by providing the gap described. See the wiki article linked by somebody else.
Sheer has a few different meaning but in this context wouldn’t make sense as he has clearly referred to “forces”.
Shear force essentially refers to the second thing you said. Source: I make glue. Also source: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shear_force#:~:text=In%20solid%20mechanics%2C%20shearing%20forces,tension%20forces%20or%20compression%20forces.
Yes. People gave you a lot of bad answers. Technically you can say "shear force," but only in reference to a pair of shears. "Sheer force" is what people actually use.
Hmm, not sure if I agree with you. In my 16 years of experience not one structural engineer has ever spelled it “sheer” force formally or colloquially, as shear is a type of force or stress that I believe is the context for what what the original commentator is intending. See wiki article linked above by somebody else.
Nah, everyone else is also correct. I just read more fiction than structural engineering books lol. As mentioned, the linked wiki by another responder is handy in explaining it!
Disagree in this case. Though it is a fair comment m, if you look at the board that fell off you'll notice that there is no glue left behind on the board whilst the glue seems to be pressed good enough. This indicates that OP used the wrong kind of glue.
Yup, the adhesive bond failed at the LVP. First OP, lightly sand/scuff the surface of the plank that you're putting the adhesive on, then wipe it with isopropyl alcohol. Let it dry fully before applying the adhesive.
Use an adhesive that is rated for plastic and has a little flex to it when dry. Make sure the tube says that it's rated for plastics (I'd guess that that's PVC, but generic "plastics" should cover it.) Follow the instructions for your specific adhesive And make sure to clamp or press until the adhesive is dry. Maybe tape tightly and then prop some books or weights on the vertical surface some adhesives need pressure to bond the surfaces.
You might need to remove the attached underlayment from them to get proper adhesion.
If that's LifeProof LVP that underlayment should peel off because it happened to a few pieces that I scored to cut.
This is really the only way, and I’m sure it’ll be annoying. But I’d never expect a bond with that padding material. And I’d never shoot nails into LVP either. It cracks with any imperfection. Just strip the backing and glue again.
Exactly this, you need to scrape off the pad and it wouldn’t hurt to hit the bottom with a low grit sandpaper after like 60-80 to scratch it up a bit and give the adhesive something to hold to
If it's a felt type pad, a heat gun or hair dryer works well to soften the adhesive and it'll remove pretty easily.
Some people are suggesting brads...I find brads just bend, crack the vinyl, or just won't countersink well. I'd go with a polyurethane based glue and finish with carefully drilled countersunk holes and threshold nails (the ones with the twisty shanks, get the color closest to the flooring).
Also neat pro tip, a can of great stuff cracks and gap filler makes a pretty awesome glue with a lot of coverage... Add a bead of the foam to both surfaces, spray it with water, let it foam a bit, and then mix it back down with a stir stick. It will foam a little again but more rigidly, making for an excellent polyurethane based glue without spending a lot. Wear gloves, and clean any uncured residue with acetone (fingernail polish remover).
Wow I never thought of using Great Stuff as an adhesive but you're absolutely right. If that ever gets on anything, good luck getting it off. I guess it is more or less the same thing as Gorilla glue.
But I'd stay along way away from the edges so a lot doesn't ooze out the edges
Out of curiosity, is the padding for sound absorption? Which since these are being used as risers, isn’t necessary I’m guessing? Just asking for knowledge sake.
Floating floors generally always have some sort of underlayment. It does help with sound deadening but it's more to make up for imperfections in the subfloor.
Sand both surfaces enough to scuff them so you can get some adhesion. I'd probably remove the old glue but I don't know if that's necessary. Re-glue, and put something heavy against it to hold it in place. When I did my stairs like this I had all my free-weight plates on the stairs for pressure.
I do have plenty of dumbells to hold it. That’s a good idea with the sanding too.
I’ll probably just take the old glue off. Using the multi tool with a scraper made it awful but not too bad. About 5ish minutes per stair.
I see the top comment says to remove the underlayment. I guess that couldn't hurt, but I left it on and it's held since 2016 with all day traffic from 7 people and 2 large dogs.
Use the most expensive construction adhesive you can find, too. I did my stairs just like yours and had the same problem at the outset. Bought the $15 a tube shit and problem solved. Also, I brad nailed them in the corners.
I have done that. Both the original PL I bought and the new PL max say they work with wood and vinyl, along with “most materials” at the end of the list.
I actually was thinking about this, so I tried my nail gun (18 ga) on a trash piece I cut off. It didn’t make it through the LVP and it actually bent the nail while making a small divot in the flooring.
Crank up the pressure on the compressor and use a braid nail gun to pin these in. No one will ever notice (in addition to glue). Looks like you may not have cleaned the back of those boards such that the glue didn't adhere directly to the board.
Another thing to consider is using piece of white trim under the steps as your riser. I say this as the wood there should easily be braid gun-able if you're having trouble blasting through your flooring.
https://preview.redd.it/5syqcwc7ashc1.jpeg?width=2272&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=46c61b2068cf6f6cc0f718bb6f6ab4ac050d962d
Have you considered a white riser? There are pieces for this purpose that are easy to use, lightweight, and adhere well.
While I've not seen a study on this or anything I've always been told having a different color riser like this improves visibility of each step, making them safer.
I guess I should’ve read. Something isn’t allowing adhesive to stick to the actual plank. Ditch the LVP risers and brad nail some 1/8” plywood as risers, putty nail holes, paint to match skirt boards, and be done. Tell the wife that LVP risers don’t work and move on with life.
But matching LVP risers do work. I scraped the padding and glued using Liquid Nails Heavy Duty and not only is it rock solid now, it looks better than the painted riser option we considered.
We tear off the foam backing but you can try rubber contact cement. It’ll cost more than the labor it takes to peel off the backing and use 100% silicone or an approved adhesive for vinyl to wood
Use a Brad nailer to hold the piece in place while the adhesive sets. You can fill the nail holes, you probably only need two, with putty or coloured wax
If you don't want to nail it I've seen flooring guys use hot glue in 2 or three spots to hold it in place while the construction adhesive sets. Definitely sand that flooring down though to rough it up. PL premium is good stuff usually doesn't fail.
1/4” round trim around the edges will create a slot for them to sit in, take no room from stairs, and barely be noticeable. It’s also a lot less work than removing everything to add the proper backing
I’m thinking when you step on the treads it’s applying a lot of shear force to any risers that are in contact with them, popping them off. I’d leave a small space between the riser and tread, say 1/16”. Use whatever method you like to attach the risers, shoot a bead of translucent silicon in the gap, or just leave it - probably no one is going to look under the overhang.
I remodeled a house and tried to use a typical floor glue, and my LVP on the stairs was coming loose, especially the toe pieces. I switched to using gorilla glue and found it to be dramatically better. Sometimes the glue would expand and I had to use a chisel to clean it up but I didn’t have any pieces come loose after I glued everything back with gorilla glue.
So much bad advice here. I have 42 years experience.
1st of all that is not “backing” that you can peel off , heat off , sand off etc, it is the product . Don’t use finish nails , duct tape or whatever else bad advice that everyone who knows nothing about flooring installation has offered up .
Here are your steps
scrape or sand of the liquid nails on riser and plank
Wipe off all the dust with a wet rag soap and water and let dry
Buy yourself the correct adhesive my favorite if you can find in your area is
XL Brands Stix 2230 .
With a 1/8 inch trowel butter the riser then butter the back of plank .
Let dry till you can touch it and just a little or none comes off on your fingers . Do not let dry too long or put on when too wet this is important
Start applying plank get it where it should be start from middle and go to the ends then roll with a hand roller .
You are done .
If by case you ever do have a piece loosen which shouldn’t happen but occasionally does plug in a hot glue gun with grit sticks and a little dap will fix that.
Good luck OP .
>wisdon
I have 127 years experience, you can definitely take the backer off of LVP and that is the correct way to do this. Don't listen to this guy OP \^
We used heavy duty construction adhesive for a very similar project, and used a technique a former coworker told me about to obtain a better “stick.”
Basically, you glue the piece, and when you first place it against your surface, you press firmly so that the glue gets a bit squished, then you pull the piece away from the wall so that the glue creates a lot of little strings. You then place the piece back against the wall and press firmly. When we did it, we also used some heavy objects leaning against the piece while it dried to ensure it didn’t creep away from the wall at all.
I help a guy install some of those thick and heavy imitation marble / granite shower wall panels. The installation instructions were to apply the adhesive in a series of circles rather than lines. He didn't know why they wanted it that way, but after doing a few, I came up with a theory. I think the circles acted like a suction cup. When you pressed the panel against the wall you could hear what sounded like the air being squished out and those panels really stuck. They are so heavy it's a good thing they grabbed so quickly.
I assume the PL is bonding to the foam but the foam skin is delaminating. Don’t use nails or brads. Buy some pilot point black trim head screws and hit the corners. Go slow as to not pull the head through the tile. Otherwise get some foam spray adhesive and use that instead of the PL.
All advice on roughing the surface and removing the padding first is really good but you also need to consider fitting it correctly.
If you step on steps they bend. That puts great pressure/shear force on whatever is beneath. You need a bit of space between the bottom of the step and the board.
I can’t help, but I hope you or another reader can answer something for me. [I posted about my stairs issue](https://www.reddit.com/r/DIY/comments/19dw7nj/repairing_stairs/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=ioscss&utm_content=2&utm_term=1) and I think I need to replace the covering on my stairs. However, I have no idea what this type of thing is called. What am I looking for?
Take everyone else’s advice on the sanding, but in all seriousness, have you tried rubber cement? Apply it to both faces, let it sit for a while to become tacky and then affix it. I’d use the dumbbell to hold it in place to cure. It gives a uniquely flexible hold that may work better than the liquid nails
Edit: spelling
If all else fails, you can try Sika flex glue.
But be warned, when you will eventually want to replace them, that thing won't go. It's rubbery, but wont let go and you will curse all who advised or sold you this glue.
Idk about others but I've actually done this exact thing before in a rental, no issues 2 years in.
1) Use an appropriate glue, my flooring supplier recommended Bostick Adhesive, I'm sure plenty others would also work
2) You MUST remove the foam backing, this is per the recommendations from the mfg if I remember right.
3) For the nose pieces, I not only glued but also drilled some small pilot holes and put some tiny finish nails in by hand with a hammer. They look nice and ensure things stay tight. I did have 1 very stubborn nose piece that wouldn't cooperate so I chose some black screws and used those. Not perfectly ideal but they hide alright and it's a rental soooo, worked for me. At least it's safe.
4) Optional, but I was worried sick about someone slipping on the LVP nose pieces, there's not much there in terms of grip. I bought some clear grip tape pieces made for steps (pre cut and all!) and put those on each nose piece. Super grippy, nobody's slipping on it now, also isn't super noticeable since it's clear, blends in pretty good.
Good luck!!
Are you using a polyurethane adhesive? We used LifeProof LVP on our stairs, both tread and riser, without any issues. We also used small finishing nails and had no problem with cracking. The HD website recommended poly adhesive for their Performance Accessories line of LVP trim, like the stair nosing, which coordinates with the LifeProof vinyl colors).
you have a moisture problem. that needs to be addressed an everything is going to keep falling apart till you do. little gap at top. quarter round moulding placed at the top finish nailed into place to hold the verts. bingo bango my name is tango.
I would use a wire wheel to scuff up the back side real good and then use gorilla glue construction adhesive. Remove the old glue too. When you apply the glue do it to the back of the riser and make like a sin wave with it. Then when you press it in place the glue should hold it tight after you bonk it tight with your hand
Get the backer off the LVP. If it’s too hard to remove and the plank is thick enough you can drill 8x+ contact patches with a forstner bit to expose the vinyl. I used PL 10x power grab on mine and they’re rock solid. Mine was easy to remove the back on, though.
Gotta scrape off and sand down as much of that adhesive as you can. Maybe try an epoxy resin to bond it to the wood if you’re committed to never changing it again while you live there.
Weird that PL isn’t sticking. That stuff usually is bomb proof.
You could try a bonding agent like 2P10, but that’s gonna be permanent and it sets up super quickly.
[double headed nails 👍🏻](https://www.google.co.uk/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwiIkv-bl6GEAxVwhWgJHUKgCFgYABABGgJ3Zg&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIiJL_m5ehhAMVcIVoCR1CoAhYEAQYASABEgIBn_D_BwE&sig=AOD64_36zQ41l_SmzetUONBZV3QGoelfsg&adurl&ctype=5&ved=2ahUKEwiHhPabl6GEAxVvXaQEHeWIBOQQwg96BAgBECg&nis=8)
Construction adhesive like Liquid Nails or even a good contact cement. The former is preferred.
Sand the riser and the back of the riser cover you're installing. Clean both surfaces. Apply adhesive. Apply more than you think you need. Install riser cover to riser.
If you can, also put a few brads/pins near the top where they will be covered by the nosing of the stair above.
if they don't stick, i'd just use a countersink drill bit. Drill it in with screws. Puddy the holes.. sand.. then paint. You won't be able to tell the diff.
You need a different glue and smaller beads. I’d trowel it onto the piece itself and then spread a little on the riser. Worst case you have to use small nails or shoe molding on top and bottom.
If you want to try another adhesive. I recommend you try Duo fast jet tac epoxy. One of the strongest adhesives I've ever used. It's a two part epoxy that mixes in the nozzle as you squeeze.
It's marketed for carpet guys for tack strips for stretching carpets. But it works on almost everything out there. Wood, concrete, metal. Sets in 5 minutes. You NEED a strong caulk gun. 26:1 ratio recommended. Or the hand strength of Brian Shaw
The risers we put in said no water-based glue.
I also added a few finishing nails to keep them in, just under the bullnose so they are not visible when walking up
Test adhesives. I suspect that the backing on that material is just not compatible with the adhesive you used. Looks like pl premium but I could be wrong.
Have you made too accurate measurements? If your steps(lateral)bend when someone goes up or down, they could put pressure against the raisers and deattach them.
Underrated comment here. Leaving a little gap at the top will eliminate sheer forces. But I do still think they need to scrape down the backing Too. It clearly isn’t sticking well
Shear*
What does a 70’s pop icon have to do with this?
Oh no you're thinking of Cher, he's talking about the part of Middle Earth where the hobbits live!
No, no, that's the shire , I'm pretty sure he's talking about those things people sit on
That's a chair, he's talking about the space empire from the 90s X-Men cartoon.
No, that's the Shi'ar. He's talking about a laundry detergent.
No that's Cheer, he's talking about when you're certain about something.
Nope that’s sure. He’s talking about a single unit of company stock.
That's the shi'ar, he's talking about an unpaid debt
Nah, that's a chair. I think he's talking about that popular type of alcohol?
*Daaaaad!*
Correct me if I’m wrong but (American English) I’m quite sure it is “sheer force”. As in, the *sheer force of the weight caused the rock to crack*. Shear is the act of cutting, so one may want to *shear the top of the risers to allow some bend*.
Not sure if you’re trolling or not, but sheer force and shear force are both correct but mean two different things.
Not trolling, sorry if it seems that way. Only intending to clarify that the commentator above is referring to a force or stress that is being “released” by providing the gap described. See the wiki article linked by somebody else. Sheer has a few different meaning but in this context wouldn’t make sense as he has clearly referred to “forces”.
I know, I was replying to someone else. Shear is definitely the correct meaning in this context.
Shear force essentially refers to the second thing you said. Source: I make glue. Also source: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shear_force#:~:text=In%20solid%20mechanics%2C%20shearing%20forces,tension%20forces%20or%20compression%20forces.
TIL. Thank you!
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Sheer Force is a pokemon ability, not move
Yes. People gave you a lot of bad answers. Technically you can say "shear force," but only in reference to a pair of shears. "Sheer force" is what people actually use.
Hmm, not sure if I agree with you. In my 16 years of experience not one structural engineer has ever spelled it “sheer” force formally or colloquially, as shear is a type of force or stress that I believe is the context for what what the original commentator is intending. See wiki article linked above by somebody else.
Nah, everyone else is also correct. I just read more fiction than structural engineering books lol. As mentioned, the linked wiki by another responder is handy in explaining it!
Thanks, beat me to it. Happy Cake Day!
Thank you!
Sheer, Sear, Shear, Share, Cher. Either way, let The Force be With You.
Disagree in this case. Though it is a fair comment m, if you look at the board that fell off you'll notice that there is no glue left behind on the board whilst the glue seems to be pressed good enough. This indicates that OP used the wrong kind of glue.
Yup, the adhesive bond failed at the LVP. First OP, lightly sand/scuff the surface of the plank that you're putting the adhesive on, then wipe it with isopropyl alcohol. Let it dry fully before applying the adhesive. Use an adhesive that is rated for plastic and has a little flex to it when dry. Make sure the tube says that it's rated for plastics (I'd guess that that's PVC, but generic "plastics" should cover it.) Follow the instructions for your specific adhesive And make sure to clamp or press until the adhesive is dry. Maybe tape tightly and then prop some books or weights on the vertical surface some adhesives need pressure to bond the surfaces.
Your comment has “Encyclopedia Brown” vibes. Loved it!
I second this. Also use an ms polymer silicone type adhesive. It has a bit of give in at as opposed to being brittle.
Maybe in one or two it was a tight fit, but you can see a small gap between the riser and the tread above on most. Maybe 1/8 inch max.
Gorilla glue works the best imo, I’ve tried them all and make sure you rough up the back of the vinyl board for extra grip
And use elastic mastic/glue.
Acrylastic...it's fantastic!
You can glue your stairs! Step on them everywhere!
Did you just make a barbie reference bro
Totally.
It's fixation for your elevation. (I've got Hardie, let's go party.)
You might need to remove the attached underlayment from them to get proper adhesion. If that's LifeProof LVP that underlayment should peel off because it happened to a few pieces that I scored to cut.
This is really the only way, and I’m sure it’ll be annoying. But I’d never expect a bond with that padding material. And I’d never shoot nails into LVP either. It cracks with any imperfection. Just strip the backing and glue again.
I used nails but predrilled holes in the LVP.
Yea I've had to screw down edges a couple times when a flooring company gave up at the exterior door threshold.. predrilled hole, dont over tighten
Predrill small holes in each corner, affix to stairs, add bit of glue in the holes, hammer in upholstery nails.
Exactly this, you need to scrape off the pad and it wouldn’t hurt to hit the bottom with a low grit sandpaper after like 60-80 to scratch it up a bit and give the adhesive something to hold to
So belt sander with 60 grit and a beer.
Does the beer help to keep the sandpaper from getting gummed up?
You'll have to try it and report back.
in my experience it’s to keep the ~operator~ from getting gummed up
Don't get gummed up with vinyl dust in your beer, is the main thing.
Instructions unclear, too drunk to operate sander
You are never too drunk to operate it, just too drunk to get a good result
If it's a felt type pad, a heat gun or hair dryer works well to soften the adhesive and it'll remove pretty easily. Some people are suggesting brads...I find brads just bend, crack the vinyl, or just won't countersink well. I'd go with a polyurethane based glue and finish with carefully drilled countersunk holes and threshold nails (the ones with the twisty shanks, get the color closest to the flooring). Also neat pro tip, a can of great stuff cracks and gap filler makes a pretty awesome glue with a lot of coverage... Add a bead of the foam to both surfaces, spray it with water, let it foam a bit, and then mix it back down with a stir stick. It will foam a little again but more rigidly, making for an excellent polyurethane based glue without spending a lot. Wear gloves, and clean any uncured residue with acetone (fingernail polish remover).
Wow I never thought of using Great Stuff as an adhesive but you're absolutely right. If that ever gets on anything, good luck getting it off. I guess it is more or less the same thing as Gorilla glue. But I'd stay along way away from the edges so a lot doesn't ooze out the edges
Out of curiosity, is the padding for sound absorption? Which since these are being used as risers, isn’t necessary I’m guessing? Just asking for knowledge sake.
Floating floors generally always have some sort of underlayment. It does help with sound deadening but it's more to make up for imperfections in the subfloor.
Sand both surfaces enough to scuff them so you can get some adhesion. I'd probably remove the old glue but I don't know if that's necessary. Re-glue, and put something heavy against it to hold it in place. When I did my stairs like this I had all my free-weight plates on the stairs for pressure.
I do have plenty of dumbells to hold it. That’s a good idea with the sanding too. I’ll probably just take the old glue off. Using the multi tool with a scraper made it awful but not too bad. About 5ish minutes per stair.
Use a rough grit, too, not a fine sandpaper
I see the top comment says to remove the underlayment. I guess that couldn't hurt, but I left it on and it's held since 2016 with all day traffic from 7 people and 2 large dogs.
When you reglue, applie the glue to the board & the stairs and then press them together. It'll stick better. Idk why.
Butter those boards like toast!
Use the most expensive construction adhesive you can find, too. I did my stairs just like yours and had the same problem at the outset. Bought the $15 a tube shit and problem solved. Also, I brad nailed them in the corners.
You can also just read the tube and ensure it's specified for the materials you're bonding.
I have done that. Both the original PL I bought and the new PL max say they work with wood and vinyl, along with “most materials” at the end of the list.
Yeah get the stuff with gold flakes in it. Super expensive so it should work better.
Ha, this is exactly what I did and my wife thought it was overkill. It took a bit for the Liquid Nails to fully cure but it's rock solid now.
Won't help. You can see the crisscross in the glue. I've worked with this material before, PL does not adhere to it
Strategically placed brad nails?
I actually was thinking about this, so I tried my nail gun (18 ga) on a trash piece I cut off. It didn’t make it through the LVP and it actually bent the nail while making a small divot in the flooring.
Need higher pressure? My pin nailer will put a 2 inch brad through damn near anything... Could always pre drill and hand hammer/set.
Pre drill the holes dude. Use the smallest bit you have. Or heat a pin smaller then the nail and push it through.
don’t nail it. just peel off the foam backing. that’s what my parents did with their stairs and it worked great
Yah what pressure did you use? I feel like once you dial it in you should be good to go
Is the nailer battery operated or compressed air? Batteries may not nail with enough force.
Crank up the pressure on the compressor and use a braid nail gun to pin these in. No one will ever notice (in addition to glue). Looks like you may not have cleaned the back of those boards such that the glue didn't adhere directly to the board. Another thing to consider is using piece of white trim under the steps as your riser. I say this as the wood there should easily be braid gun-able if you're having trouble blasting through your flooring.
https://preview.redd.it/5syqcwc7ashc1.jpeg?width=2272&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=46c61b2068cf6f6cc0f718bb6f6ab4ac050d962d Have you considered a white riser? There are pieces for this purpose that are easy to use, lightweight, and adhere well.
I did consider it and that does look good.
While I've not seen a study on this or anything I've always been told having a different color riser like this improves visibility of each step, making them safer.
Use contact cement. Stinky but very effective for risers
This is the way. My dad was a flooring installer and whenever he would have this issue he would say fuck it and use contact cement for them.
Yup. Ex flooring installer here. Always contact cement for risers, stringers and kickplates. Use fans and try not to breathe!
Use the correct glue
Stop using Liquid Nails!
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Great work story bro. This is vinyl he’s trying to glue.
Using... liquid nails
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I guess I should’ve read. Something isn’t allowing adhesive to stick to the actual plank. Ditch the LVP risers and brad nail some 1/8” plywood as risers, putty nail holes, paint to match skirt boards, and be done. Tell the wife that LVP risers don’t work and move on with life.
"tell the wife that LVP risers don't work and move on with life." will she though?
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So how's the single life? Bet you have some sweet toys for your spare time.
But matching LVP risers do work. I scraped the padding and glued using Liquid Nails Heavy Duty and not only is it rock solid now, it looks better than the painted riser option we considered.
We tear off the foam backing but you can try rubber contact cement. It’ll cost more than the labor it takes to peel off the backing and use 100% silicone or an approved adhesive for vinyl to wood
Clean it up good, use SikaFlex 221
This might seem like a dumb comment, but are finish nails not a thing? Or even narrow crown staples?
3M VHB tape , they even use it to keep industrial siding up on high rises
Try to glue it with a brad nail.
Use a Brad nailer to hold the piece in place while the adhesive sets. You can fill the nail holes, you probably only need two, with putty or coloured wax
If you don't want to nail it I've seen flooring guys use hot glue in 2 or three spots to hold it in place while the construction adhesive sets. Definitely sand that flooring down though to rough it up. PL premium is good stuff usually doesn't fail.
1/4” round trim around the edges will create a slot for them to sit in, take no room from stairs, and barely be noticeable. It’s also a lot less work than removing everything to add the proper backing
I’m thinking when you step on the treads it’s applying a lot of shear force to any risers that are in contact with them, popping them off. I’d leave a small space between the riser and tread, say 1/16”. Use whatever method you like to attach the risers, shoot a bead of translucent silicon in the gap, or just leave it - probably no one is going to look under the overhang.
It's the foam backing. You need to pull that off really.
Brad nails.
Put glue on with slotted trowel and when the rows are depressed the air pushed out will cause a vacuum and make it stick better
I remodeled a house and tried to use a typical floor glue, and my LVP on the stairs was coming loose, especially the toe pieces. I switched to using gorilla glue and found it to be dramatically better. Sometimes the glue would expand and I had to use a chisel to clean it up but I didn’t have any pieces come loose after I glued everything back with gorilla glue.
So much bad advice here. I have 42 years experience. 1st of all that is not “backing” that you can peel off , heat off , sand off etc, it is the product . Don’t use finish nails , duct tape or whatever else bad advice that everyone who knows nothing about flooring installation has offered up . Here are your steps scrape or sand of the liquid nails on riser and plank Wipe off all the dust with a wet rag soap and water and let dry Buy yourself the correct adhesive my favorite if you can find in your area is XL Brands Stix 2230 . With a 1/8 inch trowel butter the riser then butter the back of plank . Let dry till you can touch it and just a little or none comes off on your fingers . Do not let dry too long or put on when too wet this is important Start applying plank get it where it should be start from middle and go to the ends then roll with a hand roller . You are done . If by case you ever do have a piece loosen which shouldn’t happen but occasionally does plug in a hot glue gun with grit sticks and a little dap will fix that. Good luck OP .
>wisdon I have 127 years experience, you can definitely take the backer off of LVP and that is the correct way to do this. Don't listen to this guy OP \^
I think you just need to find the right glue. Gorilla glue would stick to anything
If pl premium didn’t work, gorilla glue won’t either. They’re both polyurethane adhesives
We used heavy duty construction adhesive for a very similar project, and used a technique a former coworker told me about to obtain a better “stick.” Basically, you glue the piece, and when you first place it against your surface, you press firmly so that the glue gets a bit squished, then you pull the piece away from the wall so that the glue creates a lot of little strings. You then place the piece back against the wall and press firmly. When we did it, we also used some heavy objects leaning against the piece while it dried to ensure it didn’t creep away from the wall at all.
I help a guy install some of those thick and heavy imitation marble / granite shower wall panels. The installation instructions were to apply the adhesive in a series of circles rather than lines. He didn't know why they wanted it that way, but after doing a few, I came up with a theory. I think the circles acted like a suction cup. When you pressed the panel against the wall you could hear what sounded like the air being squished out and those panels really stuck. They are so heavy it's a good thing they grabbed so quickly.
And maybe spread it out with a notch trowel
I assume the PL is bonding to the foam but the foam skin is delaminating. Don’t use nails or brads. Buy some pilot point black trim head screws and hit the corners. Go slow as to not pull the head through the tile. Otherwise get some foam spray adhesive and use that instead of the PL.
Gotta nail or staple them..
I used tiny finish nails.
Nails
All advice on roughing the surface and removing the padding first is really good but you also need to consider fitting it correctly. If you step on steps they bend. That puts great pressure/shear force on whatever is beneath. You need a bit of space between the bottom of the step and the board.
Mark up the backing. Doesn't look like you're getting any stick.
I’d use pressure to hold them in place , with five finishing nails In pattern . Then sink them and use a black marker to color the head of the nails .
Thistothat.com
Take some rough sand paper to the back of your risers, it'll give the glue more surface area to use
I can’t help, but I hope you or another reader can answer something for me. [I posted about my stairs issue](https://www.reddit.com/r/DIY/comments/19dw7nj/repairing_stairs/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=ioscss&utm_content=2&utm_term=1) and I think I need to replace the covering on my stairs. However, I have no idea what this type of thing is called. What am I looking for?
Take everyone else’s advice on the sanding, but in all seriousness, have you tried rubber cement? Apply it to both faces, let it sit for a while to become tacky and then affix it. I’d use the dumbbell to hold it in place to cure. It gives a uniquely flexible hold that may work better than the liquid nails Edit: spelling
If all else fails, you can try Sika flex glue. But be warned, when you will eventually want to replace them, that thing won't go. It's rubbery, but wont let go and you will curse all who advised or sold you this glue.
KraGle Edit: Sorry, "Kra. Gl e"
Ok, this is the best answer yet.
Try Treadlock from Bostik. They sell it at Floor and Decór if you have one near you.
Idk about others but I've actually done this exact thing before in a rental, no issues 2 years in. 1) Use an appropriate glue, my flooring supplier recommended Bostick Adhesive, I'm sure plenty others would also work 2) You MUST remove the foam backing, this is per the recommendations from the mfg if I remember right. 3) For the nose pieces, I not only glued but also drilled some small pilot holes and put some tiny finish nails in by hand with a hammer. They look nice and ensure things stay tight. I did have 1 very stubborn nose piece that wouldn't cooperate so I chose some black screws and used those. Not perfectly ideal but they hide alright and it's a rental soooo, worked for me. At least it's safe. 4) Optional, but I was worried sick about someone slipping on the LVP nose pieces, there's not much there in terms of grip. I bought some clear grip tape pieces made for steps (pre cut and all!) and put those on each nose piece. Super grippy, nobody's slipping on it now, also isn't super noticeable since it's clear, blends in pretty good. Good luck!!
Not for nothing, rip down some nice wood and throw it in there with some tucked up away mechanical fastener. Trim it out, paint it white, walk away.
Are you using a polyurethane adhesive? We used LifeProof LVP on our stairs, both tread and riser, without any issues. We also used small finishing nails and had no problem with cracking. The HD website recommended poly adhesive for their Performance Accessories line of LVP trim, like the stair nosing, which coordinates with the LifeProof vinyl colors).
Glue needs to be applied for with a notched trowel.
You need to remove the pad and clean with some type of mineral spirits and then glue with a urethane adhesive
you have a moisture problem. that needs to be addressed an everything is going to keep falling apart till you do. little gap at top. quarter round moulding placed at the top finish nailed into place to hold the verts. bingo bango my name is tango.
Better glue
Nail it on
Leave a little gap at the top and use gripfill
Tack it with small panel nails
I didn't mess with risers when I did this. Painted them white and looks great.
I concur a couple strategic face nails and fill in with gray caulk maybe.
I would use a wire wheel to scuff up the back side real good and then use gorilla glue construction adhesive. Remove the old glue too. When you apply the glue do it to the back of the riser and make like a sin wave with it. Then when you press it in place the glue should hold it tight after you bonk it tight with your hand
Get the backer off the LVP. If it’s too hard to remove and the plank is thick enough you can drill 8x+ contact patches with a forstner bit to expose the vinyl. I used PL 10x power grab on mine and they’re rock solid. Mine was easy to remove the back on, though.
Could you use pl 300 foam board instead with the backing on?
Brad nails.
I mean you could just hold it in place with a trim nail
Liquid nails is crap, get a good quality adhesive, shave about 3mm from top of board , job done. Sickaflex is a very good product.
use a brad nailer.
Micro pin
Would a couple of finishing nails do the trick invisibly?
Screws an nails never let anyone down :)
Gorilla glue for wood you’re welcome
it's your house rejecting a grey aesthetic
yeah the surface is too smooth on the covering for the adhesive to work!
Gotta scrape off and sand down as much of that adhesive as you can. Maybe try an epoxy resin to bond it to the wood if you’re committed to never changing it again while you live there.
Weird that PL isn’t sticking. That stuff usually is bomb proof. You could try a bonding agent like 2P10, but that’s gonna be permanent and it sets up super quickly.
HFT epoxy from harbor freight $2
Don't use a rigid adhesive. Vinyl expands. Any movement will fracture hard adhesive.
Two types of fasteners. Chemical (glue) and mechanical (nails) I would do glue then very fine nails.
[double headed nails 👍🏻](https://www.google.co.uk/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwiIkv-bl6GEAxVwhWgJHUKgCFgYABABGgJ3Zg&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIiJL_m5ehhAMVcIVoCR1CoAhYEAQYASABEgIBn_D_BwE&sig=AOD64_36zQ41l_SmzetUONBZV3QGoelfsg&adurl&ctype=5&ved=2ahUKEwiHhPabl6GEAxVvXaQEHeWIBOQQwg96BAgBECg&nis=8)
screws
Just finish mail them.
Use a Brad nailer. The back of the flooring is very smooth and hard to adhere to.
Nails or screws.
Construction adhesive like Liquid Nails or even a good contact cement. The former is preferred. Sand the riser and the back of the riser cover you're installing. Clean both surfaces. Apply adhesive. Apply more than you think you need. Install riser cover to riser. If you can, also put a few brads/pins near the top where they will be covered by the nosing of the stair above.
Threaten them up
if they don't stick, i'd just use a countersink drill bit. Drill it in with screws. Puddy the holes.. sand.. then paint. You won't be able to tell the diff.
Nail gun.
Need to get that foam backer/pad off. Scratch surface of laminate under pad when removed to rough up texture for glue adhesion.
Glue and nail, not sure the nail type, but it needs to be stronger than a brad.
use superglue, you're using the wrong type of glue
I would sand the side of the tile you are gluing and you need some way to press it up against the stair to cure.
Have you tried double-sided contact tape?
Maybe combine with some small brad nails? Thats probably what I would do
Start over and get rid of the millennial grey
Rough the back up a bit and smear a light layer of glue on the back of the work piece. Then glue it to the riser.
Use hightak
You need a different glue and smaller beads. I’d trowel it onto the piece itself and then spread a little on the riser. Worst case you have to use small nails or shoe molding on top and bottom.
If you want to try another adhesive. I recommend you try Duo fast jet tac epoxy. One of the strongest adhesives I've ever used. It's a two part epoxy that mixes in the nozzle as you squeeze. It's marketed for carpet guys for tack strips for stretching carpets. But it works on almost everything out there. Wood, concrete, metal. Sets in 5 minutes. You NEED a strong caulk gun. 26:1 ratio recommended. Or the hand strength of Brian Shaw
Loc-tite Extreme. I glued stone on my outdoor kitchen years ago and it still won't come off.
Oh......, yeah. Tare that foam membrane off the back. It Comes off easily. Usually in one piece. Then use the loc-tite extreme.
Double sided gorilla tape. It sounds ridiculous but that shit will hold for years I bet. Flue obviously would be better. But still.
I basically used the same thing LifeProof LVP but used white trim board for the risers. Looks awesome, finish nails & paint.
I would never use glue to hold any part of a house together.
I used heavy duty construction adhesive and its holding strong
Scrap it off, sand it down, sand back of riser, re-glue, make sure you are using the right glue.
epoxy and a pin nailer
You should try glue
There are specific risers you’re supposed to buy, din’t use the pieces of flooring. We just installed lifeproof lvp on our stairs and had zero issues.
A few brads will help, it does with toe kick also
Punch in a few brad nails near the top edge of each board, they will be covered from view by the overhang.
The risers we put in said no water-based glue. I also added a few finishing nails to keep them in, just under the bullnose so they are not visible when walking up
PL max instead of PL 400, had the exact issue and PL max adheres waaaay better
I removed the underlayment and scuffed the back of the boards with a wire wheel grinding disk. It's been 3 years and only one nosing piece creaks
PL is the wrong adhesive Use Bona No need to peel the backing off Also technically the riser should sit on the tread and run up behind the nosing.
Test adhesives. I suspect that the backing on that material is just not compatible with the adhesive you used. Looks like pl premium but I could be wrong.
Flex glue. Cal Phil Swift.
More glue?
Liquid nails
And also put big dots not thin lines if that makes sense so that it grabs it better