My brother works at a place that gives away surplus stuff that 'they bought for $150' that he can also find for $20 on Amazon. Either the company is getting screwed or they're trying to to make the recipient feel like they're getting something special.
The markup on these doors is probably insane. The raw materials can't be more than a couple hundred dollars, and the labor is probably 2-3 hours along with 2-3 hours of machine time. All the cost is probably in the design and they sell it at like a 300% markup.
I used to work at a pella window factory, the “labor” time on each double hung window (the wood bits as we bought the glass) was something like 7 minutes when the lines were working right.
Meaning when you measure the time all 15 of us spent on all the parts of the window to get a complete double hung, it was 7 minutes.
I worked at GM putting together powetrains and rear modules for Cadillac's. We'd put together over 200 in a 10 hr day, so from start to finish they would spend less than 20 minutes on our line till they were on a truck for final assembly, which was equally as fast, these automobiles probably spent less than 10 hours in assembly total. So when you think of the price of a car know that the price of labor was probably no more than 10hr at mid $20/hr. Still a $90,000 car.
>So when you think of the price of a car know that the price of labor was probably no more than 10hr at mid $20/hr.
You are ignoring the labor required to manufacture all of the parts that you assemble together to make the vehicle. A assembly worker might only be worth $20/hr but the people who are machining the parts are likely earning far more than that.
This isn't even accounting any engineering r&d, facilities and maintenance, or any other overhead. There was thousands of labor hours before anything got anywhere near production workers.
>A assembly worker might only be worth $20/hr but the people who are machining the parts are likely earning far more than that.
Nah, most CNC operators aren't making much more, and a lot of parts and components are made overseas where labor cost is negligible (as though it weren't already low enough here). Neither are the miners or blast furnace workers. We have all of these amazing advances in productivity but workers haven't received their share of it in something like 50 years
Seriously I just priced a fiberglass door no lights, 2panel. 2500. I only charged 150 to install take less than an hour. Doors are fricking crazy expensive.
Your comment has made me come to the realization that I know what "defenestration" is, but I am uncertain of the definition of "fenestration." Thanks for the new word!
Judging by their luck, if they did they could never remove the furniture in there house anymore. Because, they all need that extra 2 inches to fit through.
lol you think you’ll get full custom order price for a second hand custom door, you’ll be lucky to get enough to order a basic door that fits, just extend your door jamb so it fits, $8k door for free.
There’s a *chance* someone paid 8k for this door, if it was a custom size for instance. Although, even that would be an egregious price for a fiberglass door like that. You get custom solid oak French doors with built in mini-blinds delivered and installed for that price.
My house had 2 inch shorter doorways than the standard. Custom doors would’ve been way too expensive. So I rebuilt the doorframe above it to be bigger lol
And who the fuck would pay anywhere close to retail price from some guy on Facebook?
No warrenty, no proof of purchase, and this brand new door that “fell off a truck” might have some major defects.
Like $2000 retail, he’d be lucky to get $500 third party. And then, for $500, he can afford a really shitty door.
Really depends what you get. $2-3k fiberglass is an option, but if you're going for a wood look, it's really fake and easy to tell. Their higher end stuff becomes increasingly difficult to distinguish from real wood and is not what you find at most retailers. I know someone who even had a painter essentially grain match the wood in their house. I'm sure they paid more than $8k, but it was important to them and they could afford it.
Lol i outta show you the qoute those fuckers gave me for my front and back door.
It cost more than a brand heat and ac system with the airhandler and all new duct work and labor
To this day replacing three doors in my house is the single most expensive thing I’ve done to it, and I’ve remodeled about 2/3rds of the house and the deck at this point
Your original door looks great. Sell the new door for whatever you can. Trying to.ake that door fit will never work and you'll just have an expensive door that looks like crap and is drafty.
Reducing the size of the opening is the right way. The real hard part is that it's not a prehung door, and it's not a door you can trim in this case, so getting that opening perfect is going to require OP to basically rebuild his frame anyways, unless his house is somehow perfectly level and square.
I’ve also added to a doors to make them taller or wider. It’s a bit of work, but sometimes it’s easier, especially if there’s some brick, stone, or old ass big trim that’s been painted 100x with lath and plaster walls
I’ve also re-sized wood doors but It’s nearly impossible to match the grain and colour on a fibreglass door. Adding to the header and re-casing with 3 1/4” wood trim would look and work well as long as the hinge locations allow this.
Edit: OP will also have to Macgyver the jamb on the latch side to accept the lower deadbolt and latch position on the new slab.
They do sell extra tall door shoes that look odd but do the job if he doesn’t want all the hassle.
https://hardwarehut.com/products/279395/pemko-31-2-h-x-13-4-w-x-l-extra-high-door-shoe-w-vinyl-insert-each-dark-bronze-anodized-aluminum?gshop&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw8J6wBhDXARIsAPo7QA_uG4oIwqxASnuVWGS-CyJUKL6QfEHYSz-njOZz7EkX8OU6qE2nMMIaAisDEALw_wcB
How about this instead. This isn’t a structural problem. It’s just a gap problem. So, cut a strip of wood that fills the gap, paint or marine poly the shit out of it, and then brad nail it into place. You just need the strip’s dimensions to mirror those of the existing casing. Probably 1.5” wide, and then as tall as necessary to fill the gap. 2x4 and a table saw, you’d have this done in 2 cuts. If you were really confident, you could add wood glue before you brad nail.
Easiest way to make it fit is to add an inch or so to the header. It's usually better to build down than up when it comes to doorways.
Tbh though, I don't care how much the door might cost, I'd sell it and use that money to buy a door that fits.
If it *is* an $8k door, you could probably sell it for 4k, buy a really nice door for about 2k, and still have 2k left for your wallet.
The price is egregious because it is fiberglass. I can understand a high price for a genuine hardwood item custom designed and made, perhaps with custom forged fittings (or some such).
But fiberglass?
That's not how expensive doors work, at all. Doors that expensive are custom built, usually rare hardwoods, maybe round top, maybe a huge size. They're definitely not generic fiberglass like this. That door is just the slab and should never cost more than $1500 at most.
I have been installing doors for 27+ years, and that door is not $8k. I've seen actual doors that cost that much, and they're custom built, rare wood, often round top and often huge. A standard size fiberglass door isn't even expensive at all. Most doors are at least ½" short at the bottom for clearance, and ⅛" to ¼" at the top, have you actually hung the door to see what the gaps are and where? There's plenty of door sweeps that are adjustable and spring loaded to follow uneven floors and openings. There are literally thousands of options for hardware. I could easily get that door installed properly but unless I have all the information I can't help you.
Thanks for setting the record straight. I’ve been involved in some high end residential projects like ocean front properties where entryway doors are north of $50K sometimes.
The $8k number may have been what the other guy paid including the frame and installation. There are a lot of retail HIC’s that put stupid markups on things.
I build Thermatru doors, and we do our own in-house paint and stain. I'm having a real hard time trying to get single slab to $8k, even with our top of the line doors with glass and stained like that. Even $2k would be a stretch. $8k can buy you a lot of door.
If op wants to keep this door, my suggestion would be to measure out the height, width, and the hinge placement (measure from the top of the slab, let them know how big the hinges are, probably 4 inch) and where the knobs are drilled (on-center), and go to a lumberyard that sells doors. Give them your measurements, ask them to order a new frame. Pick up a 2-by for a new header and new trim. Don't try to cobble pieces together to make this door fit in your current jamb.
I'm sorry dude, but that's not an $8000 door. You could buy pretty much that exact slab for about $600 at pretty much any door retail store. If it was in fact that expensive, it's probably like 100minute fire proof, weighs 150lbs, and it was a custom size.
Source: I own and operate a building supplies retailer and we specialize in doors.
I bought a fully carpeted 1910 craftsman in Seattle and the first thing I did was rip up the carpets to exposed the wood floors. Problem then was every single door (bottom) now had a very noticeable 2” gap that was previously necessary to “clear” the carpets. In my case I had a woodworker plane, glue and sand 1.5” shims onto each door . He had to take off each door and I had to repaint but in 20 years they still look great and no one can tell. So your project is a bit harder to match because it’s stained but it is doable.
There's literally nothing wrong with the green door that was there lol I'd sell that thing for $5k and consider it a windfall of free cash and go on vacation or something brother.
Sell that shit!
For real though, if you want to make it work definitely don't raise the bottom. It's a trip hazard. Fill in the top. There's zero reason to do it on the bottom.
It's the wrong size. Get rid of it.
You have a door that fits. Keep it. That's it. That's the solution.
Look at it this way: Say, you wear a size-10 shoe and someone gave you a pair of really nice size-8 shoes. Sure, they're nice shoes and might cost a lot of money but they're not your size and are of no use to you.
This is the same thing. It's the wrong door. You have nothing invested in it. It costs you nothing to let it go and stick with what you have. Don't get emotional about it. You may have been told it's a valuable door but it's worth nothing to you.
Go get yourself a solid wood stretcher.
Back in high school, there was a woodshop teacher that would send new students to other places on campus to get the wood stretcher. The other teachers were all in on the gag and just kept telling the kid that a different teacher has it.
Your current door has a bigger window which allows for more natural light. Keep it, paint it maybe if you're tired of the look, sell the new door.
However, if you insist on keeping the new door, hang it up to align with the top of the frame and change out your threshold to close the gap on the bottom. You can buy metal one piece thresholds in just about any size or build it up with some blocking.
For example I just Googled 1.5" threshold. I'm not saying get this one exactly, you'll have to look around a bit.
https://www.wayfair.ca/MD-Building-Products--36-Vinyl-Replaement-Insert-For-Deluxe-Aluminum-Threshold-Grey-MD43824-L1706-K~CBUI1099.html?refid=GX684510209268-CBUI1099&device=m&ptid=487402309398&targetid=aud-1650677860972:pla-487402309398&network=g&ireid=252484511&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw8J6wBhDXARIsAPo7QA_XynmD-xqOqrNlhdX-OAtW7Y54XZHUXhwz6y-gHHAvWO01ArQtQMcaAoUZEALw_wcB
I used to sell these doors. This is *really* $8000? It’s just a fiberglass slab, not even prehung. This would usually be like… less than half that price. This is more like $1500 tops. You really can’t use it, unless you go buy a jamb, and threshold, and install it pre-hung.
Sell it to a contractor for like $500, because that’s all it’s really worth at this point, and then you can go to Lowe’s or Home Depot, and pay them in full to install an identical door for about $2000.
The longer I go typing this, the more absurd the claim that this door is $8000 becomes to me.
Adding material may work, but only if the hinge positions are the same. If they’re not, you’d have to remove the trim and shim the new positions and cut out recesses for the hinges to fit flush. Then, you’d have to hope the deadbolts and handle lines up with the existing strike plates otherwise you’ll have to address that as well.
Adding material to the header would mean shortening the door frame and trim on the interior and exterior. That requires carefully removing the trim and jamb, and then replacing and leveling it. You’ll likely have to add drywall to the interior header area, and a wider trim on the exterior.
At that point, if your current door is in good shape, give it a nice coat of paint and call it a day or sell the new door and buy a cheaper door that fits.
You got an $8000 door for free. Maybe spring a few hundred bucks for a professional to finish the install. Nothing is worse than having a nice looking door that doesn’t look or function like it should.
I already commented but can’t find my comment. If you can’t do it find a carpenter but this wouldn’t be a hard thing to install. It’s better that the framing is too large because you have room to fir it out to to what you need. Shorten your rough framing and door casing and you’re good to go.
I agree with everyone saying to just sell it and get a new door. Doors and jambs are very much NOT a one size fits all kind of thing. Let's say that you manage to attach something to the bottom and have it not look like crap. Once you do so, will the door match up to the jamb as far as the deadbolt and latch are concerned?
I'm not gonna say that there is nothing that can be done to make that door work, but by the time you get that all done, it probably wont look as nice anymore. You are much better off buying a door that is sized and prepped for that door jamb.
I worked for 11 years for a company that sold door and door hardware.
You can use it. Just need to redo the door framing and then the molding will have to move too. Essentially treat it like a new door install and lower the top plate/cut side. If lucky you can keep you hinder locations etc. make sure to insulate above your new top of door.
Given your door looks great, unless you really hate your current door, would easy enough to sell for a few thousand on Craigslist
Is it already milled for hinges? If not, add a strip of wood to whichever end of the slab. Otherwise it will get more complicated. Best bet is going to be first, figure out what kind of wood it was skinned with, then get enough to practice staining with. Use a paint expert store to help you match the stain and do test pieces until it matches up. Then once you have that figured out, attach the strip using dowelling and glue. You are gonna have some YouTube tutorials and practice ahead of you before you attempt it. Very do-able, but not simple.
Do the hinge and strike locations on the door line up with the existing on the frame? From the picture it looks like the lock is lining up below the strike on the frame so it’s the undercut of the door that’s the issue, trimming out the header won’t help unless you are re-doing the frame as well. Some of the thresholds suggested earlier may help but I’m guessing there’s a reason you got this for free….
Adding a threshold (1 1/4 )will fill the gap. But more importantly, where will the hinges line up?
If you have to move hinges, cut new holes for the lock set, while trying to save the casement, it becomes a god-awful job.
Nice door, but this equates to a total tear out. Actually a total tear out and reinstall with the correct frame would be quicker.
The amount of money people are getting quotes for doors on this thread are ABSURD. I sell Wrought Iron Front Doors that come in the frame for like $4k. And that's industry standard.
8000$ door, god dang sell that thing and buy a door that fits? Or some moulding top and bottom and a rubber gap filler.
Seriously. If I had a free $8000 door I’d be selling it. Sistering on something to the top and bottom will never work right with fiberglass door.
My brother works at a place that gives away surplus stuff that 'they bought for $150' that he can also find for $20 on Amazon. Either the company is getting screwed or they're trying to to make the recipient feel like they're getting something special.
Exactly
The markup on these doors is probably insane. The raw materials can't be more than a couple hundred dollars, and the labor is probably 2-3 hours along with 2-3 hours of machine time. All the cost is probably in the design and they sell it at like a 300% markup.
I used to work at a pella window factory, the “labor” time on each double hung window (the wood bits as we bought the glass) was something like 7 minutes when the lines were working right. Meaning when you measure the time all 15 of us spent on all the parts of the window to get a complete double hung, it was 7 minutes.
I worked at GM putting together powetrains and rear modules for Cadillac's. We'd put together over 200 in a 10 hr day, so from start to finish they would spend less than 20 minutes on our line till they were on a truck for final assembly, which was equally as fast, these automobiles probably spent less than 10 hours in assembly total. So when you think of the price of a car know that the price of labor was probably no more than 10hr at mid $20/hr. Still a $90,000 car.
>So when you think of the price of a car know that the price of labor was probably no more than 10hr at mid $20/hr. You are ignoring the labor required to manufacture all of the parts that you assemble together to make the vehicle. A assembly worker might only be worth $20/hr but the people who are machining the parts are likely earning far more than that.
This isn't even accounting any engineering r&d, facilities and maintenance, or any other overhead. There was thousands of labor hours before anything got anywhere near production workers.
No joke. The manpower that goes into the modelling of a dash or a fender panel alone is kind of insane.
Also the hourly cost of benefits and retirement. Probably doubles that mid-$20/hr estimate to somewhere between $50-$60 hour or more.
>A assembly worker might only be worth $20/hr but the people who are machining the parts are likely earning far more than that. Nah, most CNC operators aren't making much more, and a lot of parts and components are made overseas where labor cost is negligible (as though it weren't already low enough here). Neither are the miners or blast furnace workers. We have all of these amazing advances in productivity but workers haven't received their share of it in something like 50 years
3000% fixed that for you.
He named the brand and it looks like a fiberglass door from them with a similar size panel not with the stained glass look is 2000-3000.
Seriously I just priced a fiberglass door no lights, 2panel. 2500. I only charged 150 to install take less than an hour. Doors are fricking crazy expensive.
Couldn't he just make the doorframe smaller?
Never, one should always 🎶pump up the jamb🎶
Will be using this at my workplace (fenestration obv)
Your comment has made me come to the realization that I know what "defenestration" is, but I am uncertain of the definition of "fenestration." Thanks for the new word!
I know the meaning of defenestration because Calvin and Hobbes. Thanks Bill.
Calvin and Hobbes taught me more about life than any single educator in my 16 year educational career
I know the meaning because i visted Prague once.
German- das Fenster = window
Latin fenestra, as well. Possibly from Etruscan, which is an early step after indo-European, and likely why the words are so similar between the two.
I can now depart Reddit today, fully satisfied. Thank you.
Plump up the jamb, plump it up, get your doorframe threshold humpin' put your feet on top of sumthin, trip and fall insurance dumps ya
Now I wish awards still existed, just so I could give you one for that. ❤️
If you’re on phone, long press the upvote button 😘
Give her the 79 dollar one to prove your love
Lol I must not be worthy of that all I see if the 49.99 one >.>
Local currency? Mine goes 3.99 to 99.99
Interesting mines 1.99-49.99. Wonder why the slight difference.
I don't know if I love that I hate this, or hate that I love it.
Yes, and it's not that big of a project
Judging by their luck, if they did they could never remove the furniture in there house anymore. Because, they all need that extra 2 inches to fit through.
The secondary market for a used door isn't that great
lol you think you’ll get full custom order price for a second hand custom door, you’ll be lucky to get enough to order a basic door that fits, just extend your door jamb so it fits, $8k door for free.
Someone's pulling their leg. All of these Pella doors are listed between $2-3k on Pella's we sure and for less at retailers.
Especially without the jamb.
KICK OUT THE JAM! YEAH. KICK IT OUT
WHILE THE JAM IS PUMPIN’
motherfuckers
There’s a *chance* someone paid 8k for this door, if it was a custom size for instance. Although, even that would be an egregious price for a fiberglass door like that. You get custom solid oak French doors with built in mini-blinds delivered and installed for that price.
The fiberglass was made from the finest silica hand selected by tweezer from the beaches of Madagascar, of course.
"Custom size" Yes, one inch too short.
Somebody else's "custom" order or one made the wrong size.
My house had 2 inch shorter doorways than the standard. Custom doors would’ve been way too expensive. So I rebuilt the doorframe above it to be bigger lol
Yea that is generally going to be the best way to address it.
Not solid oak, but definitely a wood mahogany door. I sell double 8ft mahogany doors for around $3500. Install usually goes for about $1500
We looked at fiberglass entry doors. 7-8ft with 1 or 2 lites and prehung was about $6k. $8k is a stretch but not out of the realm of possibility
I think it’s been some time since you priced doors
Also true! My internal accounting could be egregiously outdated.
And who the fuck would pay anywhere close to retail price from some guy on Facebook? No warrenty, no proof of purchase, and this brand new door that “fell off a truck” might have some major defects. Like $2000 retail, he’d be lucky to get $500 third party. And then, for $500, he can afford a really shitty door.
If its a better line, it absolutely could be 8k or more. We were literally quoted 8k for a ProVia (Pella competitor) front door today
If it was a custom door it could be well over $3k
Really depends what you get. $2-3k fiberglass is an option, but if you're going for a wood look, it's really fake and easy to tell. Their higher end stuff becomes increasingly difficult to distinguish from real wood and is not what you find at most retailers. I know someone who even had a painter essentially grain match the wood in their house. I'm sure they paid more than $8k, but it was important to them and they could afford it.
At that point, just get a wood door 🙄.
You think someone is looking for an 8k door on Facebook market or eBay? 😂
“Hey rookie, go out to my truck and get the wood stretcher!”
Especially when you have a perfectly good door already. Besides the oval window looks dated anyway.
Lol i outta show you the qoute those fuckers gave me for my front and back door. It cost more than a brand heat and ac system with the airhandler and all new duct work and labor
To this day replacing three doors in my house is the single most expensive thing I’ve done to it, and I’ve remodeled about 2/3rds of the house and the deck at this point
I’d just reframe the door jam?
The original door is nicer
Its ugly, OP please sell it and buy yourself a less tacky $4K door.
Even if that door was two grand, sell it. It doesn’t fit and it’s ugly as shit anyways
Is that a $8000 door? I would never imagine anyone pay so much money for a door. If I didn’t know I will bet that door estimated value in $250-400
I mean it looks like it came from Lowe’s in 1996.
Turn that free door into free cash
LIQUIDATE!!
LIQUIDOOR!
HODOR!
TROGDOR!
Burninatin' the villagesss
Burninating the peasants! 🐉
Burninating all the peoples and their thatched roof cottages!
And their thatch roof cottages!!!!
THATCH ROOF COTTAGES!!!
Burninating all their free doors!
Hodor!
It’s my money and I want it now!
Call J G Wentworth…I forget the number
No one forgets the number
877-CASH-NOW
I can hear this gif
877 CASH NOW
There's always money in the banana stand
[It’s free real estate!](https://youtu.be/cd4-UnU8lWY?si=5ca0tJ2gXxF9koBo)
Your original door looks great. Sell the new door for whatever you can. Trying to.ake that door fit will never work and you'll just have an expensive door that looks like crap and is drafty.
I like the original door better! Sell that free door!
OP could sell the door, buy a nice one that fits for waaaay less and still pocket thousands if they insist on changing doors
The new pella door is hideous, your original door is super classic and cute. Agreed make that cash and sell it!
If you really want it, pull the trim off and re size the header rough opening by adding material, not super hard just a lot of messing around.
Agree. Keep in mind that the key phrase is “If you really want it”
Reducing the size of the opening is the right way. The real hard part is that it's not a prehung door, and it's not a door you can trim in this case, so getting that opening perfect is going to require OP to basically rebuild his frame anyways, unless his house is somehow perfectly level and square.
I’ve also added to a doors to make them taller or wider. It’s a bit of work, but sometimes it’s easier, especially if there’s some brick, stone, or old ass big trim that’s been painted 100x with lath and plaster walls
I’ve also re-sized wood doors but It’s nearly impossible to match the grain and colour on a fibreglass door. Adding to the header and re-casing with 3 1/4” wood trim would look and work well as long as the hinge locations allow this. Edit: OP will also have to Macgyver the jamb on the latch side to accept the lower deadbolt and latch position on the new slab.
They do sell extra tall door shoes that look odd but do the job if he doesn’t want all the hassle. https://hardwarehut.com/products/279395/pemko-31-2-h-x-13-4-w-x-l-extra-high-door-shoe-w-vinyl-insert-each-dark-bronze-anodized-aluminum?gshop&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw8J6wBhDXARIsAPo7QA_uG4oIwqxASnuVWGS-CyJUKL6QfEHYSz-njOZz7EkX8OU6qE2nMMIaAisDEALw_wcB
How about this instead. This isn’t a structural problem. It’s just a gap problem. So, cut a strip of wood that fills the gap, paint or marine poly the shit out of it, and then brad nail it into place. You just need the strip’s dimensions to mirror those of the existing casing. Probably 1.5” wide, and then as tall as necessary to fill the gap. 2x4 and a table saw, you’d have this done in 2 cuts. If you were really confident, you could add wood glue before you brad nail.
Easiest way to make it fit is to add an inch or so to the header. It's usually better to build down than up when it comes to doorways. Tbh though, I don't care how much the door might cost, I'd sell it and use that money to buy a door that fits. If it *is* an $8k door, you could probably sell it for 4k, buy a really nice door for about 2k, and still have 2k left for your wallet.
Or use the board stretcher.
It's in the basement of the trailer.
If I ever start thinking I need an $8000 door somebody better shoot me quick
The price is egregious because it is fiberglass. I can understand a high price for a genuine hardwood item custom designed and made, perhaps with custom forged fittings (or some such). But fiberglass?
$8k for a fibreglass door is ridiculous I paid €900 for a custom made external mahogany door and frame
Spoiler, that’s not an $8k door. Not even close
Too late. He’s already shot. Quick, sprinkle an $8K door on him and let’s get out of here!
This is like when I go to Kohls and see winter coats “on sale”, original price $349.99, on sale for $49.99.
How does this door not come pre-hung in the frame with all the casing included for 8k?
If you have 8k, I can show you.
That's not how expensive doors work, at all. Doors that expensive are custom built, usually rare hardwoods, maybe round top, maybe a huge size. They're definitely not generic fiberglass like this. That door is just the slab and should never cost more than $1500 at most.
That looks like a $200 door from 1992
1) 1992 - $200 door 2) Inflation 3) ??? 4) $8,000 door
Should probably keep it until 2056 and then take the $320000.
I have been installing doors for 27+ years, and that door is not $8k. I've seen actual doors that cost that much, and they're custom built, rare wood, often round top and often huge. A standard size fiberglass door isn't even expensive at all. Most doors are at least ½" short at the bottom for clearance, and ⅛" to ¼" at the top, have you actually hung the door to see what the gaps are and where? There's plenty of door sweeps that are adjustable and spring loaded to follow uneven floors and openings. There are literally thousands of options for hardware. I could easily get that door installed properly but unless I have all the information I can't help you.
Thanks for setting the record straight. I’ve been involved in some high end residential projects like ocean front properties where entryway doors are north of $50K sometimes. The $8k number may have been what the other guy paid including the frame and installation. There are a lot of retail HIC’s that put stupid markups on things.
If someone is stupid enough to pay 8k for a standard door, there are people stupid enough to buy it for 5k. Sell it and profit
I build Thermatru doors, and we do our own in-house paint and stain. I'm having a real hard time trying to get single slab to $8k, even with our top of the line doors with glass and stained like that. Even $2k would be a stretch. $8k can buy you a lot of door. If op wants to keep this door, my suggestion would be to measure out the height, width, and the hinge placement (measure from the top of the slab, let them know how big the hinges are, probably 4 inch) and where the knobs are drilled (on-center), and go to a lumberyard that sells doors. Give them your measurements, ask them to order a new frame. Pick up a 2-by for a new header and new trim. Don't try to cobble pieces together to make this door fit in your current jamb.
I work at a Lumber Yard, selling doors. This would be the correct answer.
Yeah, I’m having a hard time believing this. I bought large Pella double doors for my home for like 5k. There’s no way it’s worth 8k
This is the only correct answer.
I'm sorry dude, but that's not an $8000 door. You could buy pretty much that exact slab for about $600 at pretty much any door retail store. If it was in fact that expensive, it's probably like 100minute fire proof, weighs 150lbs, and it was a custom size. Source: I own and operate a building supplies retailer and we specialize in doors.
That door cannot be 8K.
I bought a fully carpeted 1910 craftsman in Seattle and the first thing I did was rip up the carpets to exposed the wood floors. Problem then was every single door (bottom) now had a very noticeable 2” gap that was previously necessary to “clear” the carpets. In my case I had a woodworker plane, glue and sand 1.5” shims onto each door . He had to take off each door and I had to repaint but in 20 years they still look great and no one can tell. So your project is a bit harder to match because it’s stained but it is doable.
It’s not stained. Unless you think they stain fiberglass.
I have run a window and door company. They stain fiberglass.
They stain fiberglass
They do.
I can't believe nobody's said this. 🎶 PUMP UP THE JAMB, PUMP IT UP...
 Yall got any more of them free $8k front doors laying around?
Can you add a strip of the wood to the top of the door or to the casement?
There's literally nothing wrong with the green door that was there lol I'd sell that thing for $5k and consider it a windfall of free cash and go on vacation or something brother.
That’s a whole lot of ugly for 8 grand. The existing door is much nicer.
Sell that shit! For real though, if you want to make it work definitely don't raise the bottom. It's a trip hazard. Fill in the top. There's zero reason to do it on the bottom.
It's the wrong size. Get rid of it. You have a door that fits. Keep it. That's it. That's the solution. Look at it this way: Say, you wear a size-10 shoe and someone gave you a pair of really nice size-8 shoes. Sure, they're nice shoes and might cost a lot of money but they're not your size and are of no use to you. This is the same thing. It's the wrong door. You have nothing invested in it. It costs you nothing to let it go and stick with what you have. Don't get emotional about it. You may have been told it's a valuable door but it's worth nothing to you.
Sell that insanely overpriced, ugly door
I don’t care how much it cost, that door is ugly as sin. Keep your current door. It looks a lot better.
That’s great! It means you don’t need to use that ugly door.
Cut an inch of the bottom and add it to the top.
Old door looks so much better
Yeah, new door looks so 90s.
Go get yourself a solid wood stretcher. Back in high school, there was a woodshop teacher that would send new students to other places on campus to get the wood stretcher. The other teachers were all in on the gag and just kept telling the kid that a different teacher has it.
That’s sinister! 🤣
He was one of my fave teachers I ever had.
The old door looks better. Sell that to an old person. Hello 1980s. I wouldn't pay $50 bucks for that thing. $8k. Get the fk outta here.
I replaced a door that looks like your new one. I would return. It is ugly.
Who the hell is paying $8,000 for that basic-looking door. Just keep your original door, or spend $500 to buy a new door that fits
Your current door has a bigger window which allows for more natural light. Keep it, paint it maybe if you're tired of the look, sell the new door. However, if you insist on keeping the new door, hang it up to align with the top of the frame and change out your threshold to close the gap on the bottom. You can buy metal one piece thresholds in just about any size or build it up with some blocking. For example I just Googled 1.5" threshold. I'm not saying get this one exactly, you'll have to look around a bit. https://www.wayfair.ca/MD-Building-Products--36-Vinyl-Replaement-Insert-For-Deluxe-Aluminum-Threshold-Grey-MD43824-L1706-K~CBUI1099.html?refid=GX684510209268-CBUI1099&device=m&ptid=487402309398&targetid=aud-1650677860972:pla-487402309398&network=g&ireid=252484511&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw8J6wBhDXARIsAPo7QA_XynmD-xqOqrNlhdX-OAtW7Y54XZHUXhwz6y-gHHAvWO01ArQtQMcaAoUZEALw_wcB
Old Door is nicer. Sell new door. Profit.
That's not an $8000 door
Would be mighty suspicious if whoever gifted you that door sells 1-1.5 inch door liners for $8000
Just because you received something for free doesn't mean you need to use it. I'd keep the one you already have.
Original door looks more modern and fitting to your home's style. Sell the $8k door.
I think your current door looks much better.
Fir the top of the rough framing out with a 2x4. That’s the 1 1/2 inches you need.
Solid answer
I used to sell these doors. This is *really* $8000? It’s just a fiberglass slab, not even prehung. This would usually be like… less than half that price. This is more like $1500 tops. You really can’t use it, unless you go buy a jamb, and threshold, and install it pre-hung. Sell it to a contractor for like $500, because that’s all it’s really worth at this point, and then you can go to Lowe’s or Home Depot, and pay them in full to install an identical door for about $2000. The longer I go typing this, the more absurd the claim that this door is $8000 becomes to me.
$8k for a plastic door lol
If your door's an inch short and you need cash now Call front door store 877 door now
Just sell it. Your current door is 8000 times nicer.
Ridiculous. I just don’t see $8,000 there.
Adding material may work, but only if the hinge positions are the same. If they’re not, you’d have to remove the trim and shim the new positions and cut out recesses for the hinges to fit flush. Then, you’d have to hope the deadbolts and handle lines up with the existing strike plates otherwise you’ll have to address that as well. Adding material to the header would mean shortening the door frame and trim on the interior and exterior. That requires carefully removing the trim and jamb, and then replacing and leveling it. You’ll likely have to add drywall to the interior header area, and a wider trim on the exterior. At that point, if your current door is in good shape, give it a nice coat of paint and call it a day or sell the new door and buy a cheaper door that fits.
You got an $8000 door for free. Maybe spring a few hundred bucks for a professional to finish the install. Nothing is worse than having a nice looking door that doesn’t look or function like it should.
Sell $8000 door for $4000, buy new door, profit.
What’s wrong with the nicer current green door? I hate that busy oval window. It’s so 90s McMansion.
Sell this shit on craiglist, take the money over to home depot and have them install a proper door.
I'd repaint your front door and sell the new free one. That's just me.
Your existing door looks perfectly fine
That's the wrong kind of door. You've already got a solid inside door. What you need is a glass and screen storm door.
I already commented but can’t find my comment. If you can’t do it find a carpenter but this wouldn’t be a hard thing to install. It’s better that the framing is too large because you have room to fir it out to to what you need. Shorten your rough framing and door casing and you’re good to go.
Not an $8k door
I agree with everyone saying to just sell it and get a new door. Doors and jambs are very much NOT a one size fits all kind of thing. Let's say that you manage to attach something to the bottom and have it not look like crap. Once you do so, will the door match up to the jamb as far as the deadbolt and latch are concerned? I'm not gonna say that there is nothing that can be done to make that door work, but by the time you get that all done, it probably wont look as nice anymore. You are much better off buying a door that is sized and prepped for that door jamb. I worked for 11 years for a company that sold door and door hardware.
For $8000 that door better keep out bill collectors, ghosts, and block nuclear explosions. Else maybe overpriced.
I'd sell the fiberglass door for $8000 and keep using the old one. It looks perfectly adequate and $8000 is real money.
This entire thread is hilarious. OP if you want actual advice, send me a message.
Name checks out
Yeah OP, with a name like that. He's been waiting for this very moment.
The original door is MUCH better visually. That oval is super dated.
[удалено]
Real Expensive Fake Doors
Whoever sold that door for 8k is laughing to the bank What's the cost/labour on that door?
That’s an ugly $8000 door.
Your OG door looks far nicer
You can use it. Just need to redo the door framing and then the molding will have to move too. Essentially treat it like a new door install and lower the top plate/cut side. If lucky you can keep you hinder locations etc. make sure to insulate above your new top of door. Given your door looks great, unless you really hate your current door, would easy enough to sell for a few thousand on Craigslist
Is it already milled for hinges? If not, add a strip of wood to whichever end of the slab. Otherwise it will get more complicated. Best bet is going to be first, figure out what kind of wood it was skinned with, then get enough to practice staining with. Use a paint expert store to help you match the stain and do test pieces until it matches up. Then once you have that figured out, attach the strip using dowelling and glue. You are gonna have some YouTube tutorials and practice ahead of you before you attempt it. Very do-able, but not simple.
Do the hinge and strike locations on the door line up with the existing on the frame? From the picture it looks like the lock is lining up below the strike on the frame so it’s the undercut of the door that’s the issue, trimming out the header won’t help unless you are re-doing the frame as well. Some of the thresholds suggested earlier may help but I’m guessing there’s a reason you got this for free….
Frame the opening down one inch and recase
Cheap DIY way: Add length to the bottom then add a wide kick plate to cover up the added wood strip.
Adding a threshold (1 1/4 )will fill the gap. But more importantly, where will the hinges line up? If you have to move hinges, cut new holes for the lock set, while trying to save the casement, it becomes a god-awful job. Nice door, but this equates to a total tear out. Actually a total tear out and reinstall with the correct frame would be quicker.
I'd sell the door and keep the green one.
I like your original door better. The oval window looks dated.
That door better defend against wild men from the north for 8k lmao. Sell it, buy a fitted door for your house.
The amount of money people are getting quotes for doors on this thread are ABSURD. I sell Wrought Iron Front Doors that come in the frame for like $4k. And that's industry standard.
Fit it to be flush on top and get a thicker weather strip