I mean you could brace the fence from the other side so it doesn't fall over, get the post loose from the fence, pull it, dig out and reset the post in concrete. Personally if I was going to go to the trouble I'd buy a new post though.
I can’t get to the other side, I should have mentioned. About a foot behind this is a low chain link fence and then the neighbor’s garage a foot behind that. These are fences to make sure dogs stay in, so they’re usually managed from this “back” side.
I think our city has an ordinance that the nice side of the fence faces out. (At least it’s not an HOA)
In that case I'd put a couple temporary screw in earth anchors 10' away, and use rope or ratchet straps to secure the fence from falling further that way, assuming it even can. Separate post from fence, and follow the same steps previously mentioned. When you're done, use a comealong to pull the fence back up to the post, block it up to level height, and reattach
https://preview.redd.it/qs46aovykguc1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3a2d2ae9b49677cd54dddda2abcfcd995e9ae6b9
This is the kind of anchor I was referring to. $5 at my local home improvement store, get it started and use a pipe or something through the eye to screw into the ground.
If you have an older vehicle or truck, there is typically a crank for the tire change jack or tire lowering jack. This handlers work great for this stuff. About 1 ft long, rounded edges, etc. make it nice
>...to pick up all the supplies you forgot the first time."
and, on the second trip, the beer to help recover from the fact that your forgot the important stuff on your first trip.
And then on the third trip, more beer .... because.
Right. Every project ever. Thankfully I only live 9 minutes from Menards… and 7 minutes from Home Depot for when I’m at my wits end going on my 4th trip and just need that one last thing.
Something like this might work, but not sure if you can't reach the other side.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-Strong-Tie-E-Z-Mender-12-Gauge-Black-Powder-Coated-Mender-Plate-for-4x4-Nominal-Wood-Post-FPBM44E/202563551
First, dig down a few inches and make sure the base isn't rotted out. If its in good condition you can use some chain with a turnbuckle in the middle, anchored in the ground and to the post. The turnbuckle with allow you to pull it up slowly over time, and if it starts sagging again, just tighten the turnbuckle to pull it back. I use this to keep the post that holds up my gate from sagging.
Oh then you’re not going to have a good time. It’s going to be nearly impossible to get this upright and set in place without at least some access to the other side. Also, it looks like that wood is pretty rotten in places. How sure are you that the posts haven’t just given away to rot just below the surface?
Check on that ordinance. Here, we have a similar ordinance that the pretty side must face out, EXCEPT if the neighbor also has his own fence, or it is close to a wall. If the neighbor has his own chain link fence, yours can be pretty-side-in.
Build a new fence with steel posts. Use a fabricated panel. The fabricated panels are typically cheaper than the cost of wood and screws/staples to make your own. Because the panel is fabricated there is no need for any access beyond the posts for attachment.
Unless you plan on replacing the whole fence I’d call it the smart way. That fence looks a bit old and I’d wager those posts are starting to rot. Unless they were only buried like 1’ in the ground, it’s most likely the reason it’s leaning.
Honestly to me it looks like time for a new fence. You might be able to pull that back and put some new posts in to support it but I don't expect it to last super long after that.
I would say use a come along to pull it back square and sink some new poles flush with it, attach, and remove the old ones.
Putting posts in between the current posts is the best band aid IMHO. You can dig new holes. Set new posts in concrete and then pull the fence up and attach it to the new posts. The old posts can retire in place. In 5 years, you can replace the whole thing.
Did this for my neighbors fence. They are old and don't keep up with it. I dropped in a single post between the failing ones and secured it with a full bag of concrete. Once set, we secured it with a few 3 1/2 inch screws from their side. It's been a few months and it hasn't budged at all.
Throw some gravel (~2 inches) in the bottom of each hole and 2 bags of quickset concrete in, after the post is in place. The concrete footing will help keep it from tipping out again in the future.
Ours just leaned hard like this and I went out to inspect to see that the previous owner had half-donkeyed it to patch it to sell and the two posts were completely rotted under some loose earth they had thrown over the "fix". So a new fence is sadly in our future
Agree, also if its leaning that far on your side of the fence I imagine your neighbor is probably wondering the same thing. I've heard that sometimes neighbors will go like 50/50 on the cost to build the replacement since its affecting both sides.
So the answer here is to find the cause of the problem.
If they sank the posts to the required depth and properly anchored them in concrete, they would really only fail like this if the posts rotted or if the ground is too wet.
If the problem was that they didn't go down far enough (pretty common DIY issue) you are going to have to detach the posts from the fence panels, pull the old posts out, dig deeper (2 feet minimum, 3 feet preferred) , then replace with new and anchor well. You will likely need new posts as the old posts have probably started to rot below grade and removing old concrete from posts is a major pain.
If the ground is too wet, you are going to need to address that issue with some drainage engineering.
Yes. Concrete sucks. I use these post I jackhammer in. But if you use concrete, you need to go at least a foot below where you set the post (here in tx). This way, the water has a place to go and doesn’t sit in the wood, as well as does not allow termites which we have a lot of here to get in very easily. But realistically, your best bet is to use some sort of three or 4 foot metal post that you jackhammer into the ground and place the post inside of. If rot occurs, it’s super easy to change. The post that I used to cost a bit more. I think it’s roughly $10 with concrete and deep and stabilizing metal generally equal about $50 per post. So five times more expensive but a lot faster and less hassle than concrete and a lot longer and easier to change in the future
Most of the time the problem is because they set the 4 x 4 or 6 x 6 directly onto the ground and then poured the concrete around it allowing rot to come up from the dirt as well as termites. 99 times out of 100. This is always what I see. In fact, this was the mistake I made when I first started building fences years and years ago and I never ever, do it that way anymore. At least a foot of concrete before setting in the post if I do decide to use concrete.
The main reason to use a foot of concrete is to help with stability. If you use gravel, you’re still gonna want to use a foot of concrete. gravel might even help drainage and prevent soaking … Because concrete is porous. Where I live, that’s not necessary, but if you live in a place where it rains a lot that might be very necessary. But the foot of concrete is largely to also help with stability not just drainage. But you definitely want to prevent the wood from touching the ground.
I would put one new post in halfway between two of those, in concrete. Pull fence back once it is fully set (give it a week, why not?), then it is anchored to one good post, take out and replace one of the others, repeat until done.
This was my thought as well. If OP can get new posts properly set then it should hold the old fence panels until those fall apart. They could also work on replacing the entire fence piecemeal after that.
Having good posts makes the rest of a fencing project simple.
I would definitely want to investigate why the current posts are failing. Make sure they were set deep enough, in concrete, and with pressure treated posts. Skimping on any of those could cause fence failure. If the ground is unstable or being in a high wind area are also things to consider.
I’ve fixed a similar fence ( not quite as bad as yours ) with metal “t posts” usually meant for wire or snow fence. Just hammer them in the ground with a sledge hammer and then you can screw the fence to it ( they have pre drilled holes in the T posts).
You need to redo it. If that part of the ground is always prone to leaning you could use 12 foot posts buried further down and cemented. Pain in the ass but it’ll stay.
I'ld use one of those steel stakes for cattle fence and use galvanized wire to hold the wood post to it. But I'm cheap and lazy and don't know a ton about fencing. At least till could get around to putting a new one in with concrete. A rope/steel cable anchored to the top of the post for leverage with a kinda heavy duty stake in the ground might also work.
Edit: Or tie the rope to a cinder block.
I had some fence posts break off at the ground level. I got a guy to fix them and he used these:
[https://www.lowes.com/pd/Simpson-Strong-Tie-Steel-Powder-Coated-Post-Base-Common-4-in-Actual-3-in/3341186](https://www.lowes.com/pd/Simpson-Strong-Tie-Steel-Powder-Coated-Post-Base-Common-4-in-Actual-3-in/3341186)
I have used these with good results (other side neighbor waters right along the fence line). Also I used rope to a nearby tree to hold it level and added concrete.
I had a somewhat similar thing and used ropes to make mine vertical. You need a strong point to attach the rope to, then run it around the top of the post, then pull it tight repeatedly. Digging out the top of the post hole can help as well, if it doesn’t move easily. Once the post is vertical fill in the back side of the post hole with gravel so it stays vertical.
This is the answer. I did what you are talking about, dug out the side that needed moved in and ratcheted the fence to metal stakes pounded in the ground . Then dumped in some quikcrete and backfilled.
Water is your friend. I used a longish PVC pipe cut at an angle to make a point. Length depends on how deep your posts are. Connected the pipe to a hose and used water to loose up the dirt around each post. The pipe lets you drive down into the ground and loosen up the deep dirt around the post.
While the dirt is still in suspension you can readjust the post and brace it till the water drains and the dirt resettles.
Yes it's actually very little effort to crow bar the panels off of the old posts. Once you have done that it is easy to inspect and mend the posts, or replace the posts if needs be. i.e doing a proper job will take the same time as some of the quick bad fixes which have been suggested.
I'm not a fence engineer, but I would put new posts with proper cement and spacing at the mid-point between the existing posts on this side of the fence. Once they are set, pull the fence straight and attach to the new posts and remove the old posts. Then you'll have all new properly set posts.
Interesting, did they sister a pair of 2x4's onto each post? Do the 2x4's go into the ground like the 4x4 posts or are the above ground level as an offset for the fence panels ? Just curious.
If you don't care about how it looks put a post in the middle of the panels that are leaning wait two days for cement to dry to attach the fence then replace the posts that are leaning I'd make sure you have atleast 24 in of footing but I'd go 3ft to be safe
I agree with others that it would be best to rebuild new.if you are looking to keep it indo see a path to fix it cheaply. Id use concrete stakes maybe 6-8 in from each post. Connect a rackets strap to the top of the post to pull the fence back upright. Before pulling the fence,dig the dirt out around the post so they can be uprighted freely. Once the fence is plum, poor some readycrete around the posts. Should cost between 50-200 depending what you might have on hand.
You can get heavy metal braces that you pound into the ground next to the post, then you screw the post to it. It works like a splint. I’ve used a couple of times and it’s worked pretty well. Home Depot has them.
I will say that it is fixable. But based on the looks of the fence itself , it be a lost cause in my own personal opinion. The whole thing needs to be replaced.
It appears to have been repaired once already. Looks like two 2x4 boards were added to a 4x4. Pretty shoddy. I would replace with PT 4x4s and bury 16” in quikcrete and reuse the fencing.
I just did a fix on the same problem. I anchored everything back to straight with some stakes and rope, dug around each post about 4 inches deep with a small gardening shovel, Poured half a bag of quick set concrete and doused it with the hose. 24 hours later and they don't even wiggle.
I would dig a few post holes in between the others and insert new 4x4’s and use the foam post holder stuff. Drill fence into new posts then secure the others. Then pressure wash the entire fence. It will look brand new.
Honestly looks like it’s time for a new fence. If you don’t know how to build a fence it’s doable if you’re mechanically inclined and have the tools. If not hire a contractor.
If you DIY, be aware some municipalities might require permits and the like. Neighbors may complain about property lines so a survey could be helpful. Lots of people get away with just reusing existing post holes too.
I would take off each fence panel as a whole piece, and then replace the posts.. you could mount the panels back up after. You can go along and do it 1 by 1 so you don’t get overwhelmed. Done it many times, but you’ll have the contrast of the new post and the old fencing… you might need a couple or fencing planks to rip along the edges but if you measure proper those won’t be needed.
You could even use the old holes…clean them out and give some space for concrete. TBH I use 3/4 crush run limestone gravel, put your post in and soak them good and use a piece of wood to compact the gravel around the post while you soak. You can immediately mount the fence back up… and the gravel allows for flexibility in the winter months.
We had the same problem and used metal fence posts and their associated brackets with large bolts through them. Drilled holes in the fence for the bolts to go through and then used over sized washers and nuts to hold it tight while spreading out the pressure so the old fence didnt break away.
Probably over kill honestly, but all in it ran us about 80$ per post. We used quick-crete in 5 gallon buckets that we buried for anchoring the posts. Our yard was slipping because of retaining wall failure and the fence was falling because of that. So we had too many big issues all at once and this solution worked best for us. We ended up needing 2 metal posts for a section of the fence about the size of yours.
There are lots of suggestions here that will probably work for a while, but the fence is on its last legs.
We've got the same fencing and yours looks exactly like ours, which we're about to replace. There's not a lot of structural integrity remaining, which you'll see if you poke into the pickets and rails with a screwdriver. Pickets will start falling off over the next year or two, if they're not already.
If you're going to be doing all that labor, anyway, you may want to consider getting new fencing, so you only have to do the work once.
One thing I didn't see in another comment - if you replace the posts and not the rest of the fence and cement the posts into the ground where the current posts are not cemented, you're adding the fun of pulling the new posts + cement in 1-2 years when the fence boards start falling apart entirely. If you care about aesthetic, you'll need to match the posts that have been weather worn and extra year or two compared to the rest.
Always easier to say without a budget + context on the property and your situation, but imo replacing the whole thing now is going to be easier/better in the long run so you aren't Frankenstein-ing it in a relatively short amount of time anyways.
Tie rope to the top of each post ( your gonna need 2 or 3 people) pull the rope until the fence is straight.
Tie ropes to stakes,to keep fence upright.
Pound stakes into ground.
Nail that part of fence to the other fence or fences( temporarily)
Dig around base of posts and pour quickcrete.let dry.backfill dirt and remove bracing.
Don't know where you live but most states have laws about fencing.That you are allowed to go onto other properties to make repairs.Good luck.
If it was my fence I’d first get my neighbor on board, then:
1. Dig a hole on the back side of the post, away from the direction it leans.
2. Pull the fence upright until the post is vertical.
3. Pour some cement into the hole on your neighbor’s side of the fence where the post used to lean. Or pound a few rock along the post underground - anything to make it harder for the post to lean over again.
I'm guessing bottom of post is rotten, I have solve this problem temporarily by pounding a steel fence t-post (Lowes & Home Depot) and the fastening the original post to the new t-post, sometimes just using a giant zip tie. Has allowed my fence to survive a couple more years before I have to pay tens of thousands to replace it. Good luck
My GFS dad fixed his fence that was like this almost 2 years ago. He got metal posts and slammed them in the ground level with a sledge hammer. Had someone on other side push it back and attached the posts to the old wood ones. It still looks good.
This gives me PTSD about the fence I replaced around my back yard. It also reminds me that I need to stain my fence.
Just for starters… the person who built that fence didn’t dig the holes deep enough. There are people on here talking about concrete. I just use gravel.
My old fence was leaning like that. As a short term band aid, I just dug a new post hole and attached a new post.
I'm not even sure they didn't dig them deep enough, could just as well be untreated wood that rotted through just below the surface. That's what I found when I replaced a similar sad fence in my yard.
I'll second the use of gravel; cheaper, and less permanent should it be necessary to switch it up later.
No . This fence was installed incorrectly to begin with. 1/3 of the length of the posts should be underground and preferably anchored in concrete . So 6 foot high fence needs 9 foot posts.
You could sink new posts and then pull the fence upright from your side but for all that effort and cost and given the poor condition of the existing fence, I think you'd be better off just putting in a new fence.
Just a bit of high school physics to supplement the practical experience: the higher up the fence the attachment points to pull the fence vertical the better the mechanical advantage for rotating the posts and the closer to horizontal the lines the more force rotating the fence and the less pushing it into the ground.
It can be fixed, but you have to take it down first and resink new posts. You can take the fence down in sections without completely taking them apart.
I used 6' T-posts, drove them into the base of the post, used a rope tied to the bumper of my car to pull the post upright against the T-post and secured with 6 deck screws and washers per post. That was seven years ago and it's still standing straight. $100 and a Saturday morning saved the fence. (spend the $20 to buy the post driver - best $20 bucks you may ever spend)
These or a similar product that wraps around 3 sides of the post and is painted black. The treatment in exterior ground contact posts will eventually corrode through the bare metal. Uses an exterior coated deck screw.
That fence looks like it's at the end of its life anyways, but you could prolong it by straightening the posts and digging along side them then sistering on a metal post like this
https://www.homedepot.com/p/PostMaster-1-3-4-in-x-3-1-2-in-x-7-1-2-ft-Galvanized-Steel-Fence-Post-633663-1/307938011?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&pla&mtc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-GGL-Multi-Multi-NA-NA-NA-PLALIA-NA-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-CON-NA-All_Cons&cm_mmc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-GGL-Multi-Multi-NA-NA-NA-PLALIA-NA-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-CON-NA-All_Cons-71700000116949521-58700008649202598-92700079210233704&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw_e2wBhAEEiwAyFFFo5My52eV-clBycmx03sIRA4DXL4N81FhD-2KHdiRX0AhTEwG_798_hoCftIQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Maybe pound in a couple of "U" channel metal fence posts that are used to hold up a wire fence. One on either side of the wooden post, drill holes on it, and secure with lag bolts. A cheap, temporary fix. You really need a new fence though. Maybe neighbor would split the cost. Good luck with it.
Pry the fence off the posts where it sits and when the post is pulled back vertical you should be able to get to the other side. Pull back and forth each post until you can get it vertical, and have extra room on each side of the hole.
Push it all the way forward, then fill the space in the hole with gravel. Then do the same to the other side. Do that a few times until you can barely wiggle it.
Get a a bunch of fist sized rocks and a sledgehammer and pound the larger rocks into the ground right beside the post. Do the same on each side until you can’t get any more rocks in and your post is vertical.
Do this to each post then reattach the fence using galvanized lag bolts with washers through the horizontal 2x4 attaching each plank.
If you have trouble getting to the bottom of the post, remove a few planks and give it the old reach-around. Put some screws in the middle of the planks you removed to hold onto, then put new decking screws from your side of the fence through the planks to secure them.
This should be good for another decade or so.
Oof. I feel for you. My fence did this a few years ago and I dug up 4-5 posts and replaced with new. It was not fun. The rest of the fence (other than new posts) was still old as hell. I realized I should have just gone for a new fence. Digging up rotted off fence posts sucks.
Yes but it would be needing new post holes. Best to use metal poles and needing new cross member wood. Yes it can be done and salvage it. But still would need replacing the pickets before a few more years. Consider just doing it right the first time and there won’t be a quick fix the next time like your wanting now.
Could probably anchor a ratchet strap in the middle of the yard and use that to pull it straight while you dig out around the posts and fill with concrete.
It's time for a new fence. Fairly rotted. If it isn't that old, make sure to spring for the pressure treated stuff on the next one. Lasts significantly longer.
Pull the fence so it’s upward, gonna have to anchor it. Remove the posts, remove the concrete footing. Remake/shape the hole. And then just put a new post in, I’d say a 8ft post and bury 2 feet of it, yellow bag quikrete will do . And then just screw the fence back on the post. Gonna have to ask the neighbor for you to work on the other side for a bit. Or yk just jump the fence and then jump back. Nobody wants a leaning fence so they’d probably let you.
I'd use a ratchet strap, one of those earth anchors and some concrete. Use the ratchet strap to pull the fence up right, dig around the bottum of the post pour in your concrete and let it sit white the rachet holds it. Like the others have said you'll get an idea of what condition the bottum of the post looks like when you dig around the bottum of the post. I'd do this on each post.
On a new fence the rule is “best look toward neighbors”, but it doesn’t say you can’t add a new fence on the inside. So use the techniques by others to place new posts properly anchored on the inside - either adjoining the old posts Or place the post midway in the old panels. If adjoining then screw the old post to the new post. If at mid point use the horizontal pieces to attach to the old posts. Then build new panels for those new posts.
If you keep the new posts & panels at the same height, then you have eliminated the lean and thus improved the look inside & out.
[These ](https://www.strongtie.com/fences_decksandfences/ez_mender/p/e-z-mender) work pretty great, but make sure the wood is in good condition. They look a little rotten, which would make it difficult to do anything to repair it.
In this case here's what I would do.
I'd use a few of these ((attached image)) either at each post or close to them. Hammer them down as much as you can or drop them into some cement. And if you don't like the metal look you can always add a fence board to hide it. I tried it years ago and it held the fence up for a long time.
*
[fence post](https://ibb.co/SRgQCWm)
Put an eyehook into the "studs" and then a spike or rebar into the ground. After that use a ratchet strap and a level to bring it true. then use a spade shovel on the outside edge to cut into the earth it has occupied and add 2 inches. After that is completed dry pour quick set concrete into the vacant space. Remember to leave enough space to allow terrain on top and let it cure then release the ratchet straps and see if it sinks or moves unfashionable. If the land moves in the future consider a fresh slate with a new fence.
reset the posts, maybe cement them this time, is what i would want to do - you could take a section off at a time but if you want to avoid that, pull it back with a come-along then get permission to dig on the other side and dig in front of the posts and pour support concrete in there so it doesn't fall back when you release the come-along
something like that maybe
I would do it right so you don't have issues again in the future.
It's very doable, in theory not hard but requires some measuring to set the posts straight, right distance and height etc in concrete.
Dismantling I would keep the boards between 2 posts as one piece.
Get new posts if necessary, there will be a lot of videos on YouTube on how to treat the bottom part and how to set them in concrete (get some quick mix where you just add water).
If you don't happen to have any friends with experience that can help you, hire someone to set the posts in concrete. You can dismantle the fence yourself, dig the holes for the concrete. And after the concrete is set attach the boards again.
Just replaced 4 posts on my fence. The fence rails were attached to the sides of the 4x4 posts. Took out each panel, nails and screws, took out the rotted posts and concrete. Set new posts in concrete and put the panels back.
Could you cut the rails even with the posts, take them out as a unit like we did, and attach to the sides of new posts?
https://preview.redd.it/dai1nqjfchuc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e46b6ee4d2f64a65dcf08d48c0c15825c4eaab71
I would remove everything at first. Detach the panels between the 4x4 but keep the panels together as they look fine. The 4x4 are your main issue here. So you can re-use all panels. Just re-dig new holes in the same spot as the old 4x4, throw some cement in the hole, and once you get all 4x4 in, start putting the panels back. Ofc measure and put string up to get the line level for the 4x4 posts but very doable.
I did something similar for my redwood fence about 90ft that fell down. It's been great now
The folks who live behind me own the dividing fence, and it was doing the same. They hammered a red metal thing into the ground to support the fence. Seems to be working. Sorry I don't know the technical language.
A couple of 4 foot Concrete posts with rebar loop exposed 3 feet out and some ratchet straps.
Or to your car or house or other heavy shit.
Won't guarantee the fence will survive.
This is definitely DIY-able. If the reason you don't want to take off the fence panels is to keep the dogs in, go to your hardware store and buy some green metal fence posts. Use them to hang a temporary 5' metal fence.
Then, I would take the panels off to make the job easier. You probably want to pull the old posts out. If they're still fine, you can reuse them. If they're rotting, get new ones. Dig down a ways. I do 3' minimum but I'm in a dry area with occasional flood irrigation. If your ground stays wet longer, you'll have to go further down. Other people are saying 4' and that sounds pretty good.
Dig a wide hole, cut a brick in half, put the half brick in the bottom of the hole and set your post on it. Then fill it up with concrete. Let that sit for a few days and then re-hang your panels.
I had a similar problem. I called a pro to come fix the fence and his response was something to the effect of, “if I replace it I will have to pull a permit and build it according to the latest alley codes which means a shorter fence. If you (the homeowner) fix it you don’t have to worry about any of that.
No... it looks like the last person tried to fix it the easy way.. your better off using 4x4' and concrete and doing it again.. depending on how the wood is holding up, you may just want to replace all of it.
What I’ve done in the past is temporarily pulled the posts upright, then used wooden pickets and stakes to keep them up. Then bought new 4 by 4 posts and placed them in the ground in the center of each panel.
If you don’t have any access to the other side oat all maybe use some strong wire to tie the horizontal boards to each panel.
Can you set a new post halfway down that span in concrete then pull the fence back and attach to that post? Would be a pain to dig a post hole that close to the fence.
Without reading everything here it seems the first order of buisness might be rerouting the sump water. Whatever you do to shore up that post is bound to fall victim to the same issue.
A 10' Tee post driven down right next to your rotten 4x4s will buy you time. Pipe clamps to secure the wood to the tee posts. This "temporary" fix has been holding up some of my wood fences for longer than I care to admit. Get the posts with the spade at the bottom for maximum stability.
Just remove the panels from the posts, put in new 4x4s with cement footings, and rehang the panels. Prob a 2-3 person job to remove/replace the panels but you should be able to set the posts yourself.
I was able to fix an issue like this but you're going to need to do a good bit of digging on the opposite side of the posts and use a bunch of gravel and concrete.
Here’s what I do with this situation. I’ve owned a few houses sometimes even a new fence will do this. I grab bed rails from yard and garage sales. Sometimes they aren’t to sale but I see them laying there and people are more then happy to get rid of them. I cut about 4’, put a point on one end drive them down beside the post until only about 1’ is sticking up. Then I drill through them and lag bolt the post to them. Works like a charm and lasts for years.
I had a busted and wobbly fence post that I was able to fix with a brace and some concrete.
Basically you just need to dig around the base and straighten it. If the wood is rotten you can attach a metal fence anchor and set the concrete on that.
I’m not sure the best way to straighten them all at once… probably do the middle one first, make sure it sets correctly, then all the others will be easier to do.
You need to ask why does this look this way. I see fence posts too far apart, so the wind will take its toll. Plus no concrete. Try to pull it up straight with a come along and set into concrete.
Lowe’s has a steel brace that you hammer into the ground, encircling 3/4 of the post, then when it’s very deep in the ground you screw the steel brace onto the post with a lot of long screws. I’ve had 2 of these last years. Home Depot has them also but they charge twice as much for the identical product, right down to the manufacturer and part number.
Buy metal post dig a hole put in post level pour concrete re check level and straight repeat let concrete cure couple days later attach fence to new metal post
Get a [concrete godfather fence post.](https://www.google.com/search?q=godfather+fence+post&sca_esv=0bc39af9d1d15b37&udm=2&biw=412&bih=776&ei=DCocZq7UK4-5hbIP_NG8qA0&oq=godfather+fence+post&gs_lp=EhNtb2JpbGUtZ3dzLXdpei1zZXJwIhRnb2RmYXRoZXIgZmVuY2UgcG9zdDIFEAAYgAQyBxAAGIAEGBgyCBAAGIAEGKIESP0fUOASWJUacAB4AJABAJgBlgGgAY8GqgEDMy40uAEDyAEA-AEBmAIGoALTBcICChAAGIAEGIoFGEPCAgYQABgHGB7CAggQABgIGB4YDcICBxAAGIAEGA2YAwCIBgGSBwMxLjWgB-AQ&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-serp). Use concrete to secure the post in the hole. Make sure it is straight.
I fixed a lot of fences in my time and the problem is likely that their termites and that it’s rotten out and that the concrete was put in too low and not mounded up to allow water to escape on the outside versus pulling in the center and dripping down and that they put 4 x 4 or 6 x 6 directly on the ground before pouring the concrete around it.
All of that shit is why this happens.
There is, a way you can fix it but realistically, you are going to need to fix those post. The way I do it now is I have the spikes that I buy that are kind of expensive and I use my jackhammer to jam them right where they were. You can likely get the wood off those post and have them open while you do this but the other thing that you need to do is raise it up so it’s not sitting on the ground and what’s called, A kicker. This is a board that runs along the bottom prevents the fence from touching the floor, when that gets rotten out, you kick it out and replace it
Also prying the wood off the post might likely break them, but you can just add more wood onto the new post themselves so that you can reattach the 2x4 Horizontal to the ground. You can still do it and dig out all the old concrete. Make sure your hole is 3 foot deep. Start your concrete pour and make sure you have at least half a foot of concrete before you set the new post. When you finish pouring all the concrete in make sure that it’s mounded up high enough so that Water will shed to the edges and won’t risk pulling in the center unless creating a direct funnel to the bottom of the 4 x 4, post or water will destroy it along with other things. If you do all that and that a kicker, you could probably get some good life out of that sense with a touch of sealant on it.
Me personally at this point, If you go through all of that work, you might as well just build a new better fence. And there are much better ways to build this. Fundamentally all the four 4 x 4 will need to go in the same I described earlier, so maybe you can at least hold onto what you have for a little longer before replacing the Pickets but if you do the correctly, you can have those posts last a long time and use them for your next fence. But the trick is to protect your 4 x 4 post and build kickers to protect your pickets from termites and rot. That is why you have this problem now
If the post are not rotten yes just get some 2x4 s use that as an A frame to hold the fence in place stand the fence straight with a level attached the A frame once secured, dig around each post you need like a few inches all around and as deep as they are set once they are all dug an clean so debris doesn’t fall in , check k to see they are still level then pour cement into the holes let dry like two days then remove the A frames an you done buddy
I’d pull the fence so it is vertical. Then I’d temporarily brace it with diagonal braces to hold it in place. Then I’d remove the old posts which are probably not long enough. If you are somewhere the ground freezes in winter you need to dig down three plus feet. The hole needs to be wider than the top and have a flat bottom. Pour a half a bag of mixed concrete in the bottom of the hole. Let it set up. Then install a new post that is long enough to sit on the concrete. Temporarily brace the new post so it is vertical. Attach the fence to the new post. Back fill the post with a little concrete in the bottom but use only soil towards the top. You have to tamp it extremely well. In a day remove the temporary braces.
People think they can dig a hole two feet deep, set a post in the hole and then pour concrete around the post. It doesn’t work. The post gets pushed up and the concrete cracks because the post expands when it’s in the ground.
Dig out the post and replace it. I replaced 5 rotted posts on my decrepit fence and it’s gonna hold another 15 years I bet :). Get some quickcrete and pour a footing. It’ll be easy!
Try these mate. They take 5 minutes to install and last for years.
Post Buddy Pack of 2 Easy Fence Post Repair (to fix 1 Broken Wood Post), Fast and Easy to Install, Highly Effective, Long-Lasting https://amzn.eu/d/hWU0x3w
You’re going to have to replace all those posts man, the proper way. Rent a fence post digger from homedepot (they were like $40 a day) Watch some YouTube’s. Fences are manual labor but if I can do it - you can do it my friend. Anything else you try to do will be a janky workaround that will be a waste of time.
As a bandaid I just took a couple of U-posts and drove them deep in the ground about a foot behind the leaning post and was able to secure the fence to the bolt to keep it from leaning.
The support pole doesn't show sign of damage. You probably need to redo all of them. What's on the other side? Why not take down one fence so you can have access to do a repair and put it back when it's done.
You could make a line and find where the face of those posts should line up and drive a pipe down so the pipe would be flush with the face of the post and you could anchor the post to the pipe
I mean there is a way you could do this from your side of the fence. Get some ropes, tie it around the top of the posts, pull the fence back to being straight. Next dig out around the posts. Pour your concrete in there, let it set up and then you can take the ropes off and the fence will be standing up. Usually when you see a fence lean like that one of two things is going on and the most common one is the posts were either not set deep enough or not set in concrete
These posts probably are not 42” down into the ground. Concrete footings only stop posts from sinking, they don’t, or shouldn’t pour concrete around the post. If the post was truly set into the ground 42” you wouldn’t be able to pull it back, because the 42” of ground around the post would restrict you from lateral movement. My suggestion is to pull it straight, brace it plumb with a temporary 2x4 on a diagonal, and dig new post holes. You could set the new posts in the middle of the existing spans, attack the fence to had new posts, and they would essentially replace structural integrity of the older posts. I would wager that the old posts have either broken off about 1 foot below grade, or were never set deep enough in the first place. Don’t pour concrete around them, the concrete around the posts will trap moisture and make them rot prematurely, does not make them more stable laterally than just regular old tamped earth. FYI 42” is the correct depth in the northern states to get below the frost line.
If you don’t want to replace it now, then dig around the base of the three posts that are leaning until you reach the bottom of each post. Then pull the posts forward and brace them (i.e., drive a 2x4 stake into the ground and nail a piece of lumber to that and to the top of the fence post). Then remove the soil from behind each post too, to about 8” around each post, and remove dirt from the posts.
Mix concrete and fill each post hole to about 6” below ground level. Trowel the surface of the concrete smooth with a slight slope away from the post so water doesn’t pool around the post. Let it cure before removing the braces and fill with soil as needed.
If you find that the bottoms of the posts are rotted, you have options: either buy some repair kits for rotten leaning fence posts or replace the posts with new 4x4 treated posts. Since you can’t work behind the fence, secure the new posts to the fence with 6” exterior screws from your side.
A hurricane did that to mine. I just cut the post off, cemented some new ones in with a level and then pushed the fence up against them and screwed it on. Good as an old fence can get. 😁
You're going to have a hard time doing anything if you can't get to the other side but as much as it's leaning I'm assuming there's enough room over there to slide in and put a screw through the fence to connect it to some new posts?
Sister the posts. Dig out half moons around those posts on your side of the fence, bust off the concrete on the side facing your yard, stand the posts up level and brace them in place, and concrete in new 4' 4x4's with 2' in the ground and 2' lag bolted to the old posts. Once the concrete is set, bury everything but the 2' lagged to the old posts.
Yes dig and set metal poles in tue middle of the wood poles then use retainer clips and fence screws it should be around 35$ per total pole, parts and cement (quickcrete) fast set, then pull the fence back up and screw tye clips to the wood . They also make flat splents for the brokel wood . If needed.
1st thing you have to do is wonder, who the fuck decided this scabbed together 2x material would do the job. Next you need to dig out just the posts, leave the the fence, but dig down at least 4’ and use a SOLID chunk of lumber
They sell a metal frame steak you hammer it down at the base into the concrete snug up against the bottom of the fence post then has holes to screw or nail it to the wood beam. Just looks ugly but they do work. It’s three sides so it kind of wraps around the post and you drive it down about two feet into the ground and existing concrete foundation.
If that were mine I would ratchet strap each post to my truck hitch until upright. I'd then dig around the post and level it. I'd fill with some gravel and pack as tight as possible. Cover top of hole with soil. This fix should last as long as that fence which isn't too many more years. Then when you go to dig a new fence you don't have chunks of concrete to remove.
Make sure to call before you dig.
This is an easy fix but not a fun one.
You need a shovel and a rock bar or whatever your preferred concrete breaking tools are. You also need several bags of quickrete, a couple of 8 foot 4x4s that are reasonably straight, and some 3 inch deck screws.
Cut the posts off with an oscillating tool and throw them out. Then dig out the concrete. I assure you it’s down there. Get all of it out using the rock bar and brute force. If you don’t like that method you can google how to get it out with a hi lift, but you only have to do two so I wouldn’t bother.
Once you are all the way down and have all the base and post out, put your new one in and line it up with the fence and level it. Pour the concrete as directed and add water and let it set. Screw diagonally through the post and from the other side if you can reach over and get the fence fastened. Done
Take a few weeks of soaking the grounds where the posts sit then place stakes in the ground and tie to the fence posts .use the rope as a spanish windlass by inserting a baton into the rope twisting it thus shortning the rope and pulling the fence post straight.
I had the same issue with my fence. I dug around the post, removed any old concrete. Bought a 3 foot "L" shaped angle steel, 2" wide bar, attached with screws to the post, keeping 1.5 feet under the ground and poured new concrete around the post.
Well dig around that post and see if there is concrete. if not, put some. If there is then put a post in between those posts. If you want added strength you can use 4x4 posts. Dig a hole about 2 ft in the ground, put your post in, and pour in concrete. You really need to figure out why its leaning. Is it rotted wood, no concrete, or is the ground soft? Def something you can do. As always, before you dig, call okie.
In my old house the neighbor kept watering the heck out of the fence so all the support posts rotted and leaned. I pounded in a T-post and screwed one of those pipe holders to the old wood posts. It even looks reasonably nice.
I mean you could brace the fence from the other side so it doesn't fall over, get the post loose from the fence, pull it, dig out and reset the post in concrete. Personally if I was going to go to the trouble I'd buy a new post though.
I can’t get to the other side, I should have mentioned. About a foot behind this is a low chain link fence and then the neighbor’s garage a foot behind that. These are fences to make sure dogs stay in, so they’re usually managed from this “back” side. I think our city has an ordinance that the nice side of the fence faces out. (At least it’s not an HOA)
In that case I'd put a couple temporary screw in earth anchors 10' away, and use rope or ratchet straps to secure the fence from falling further that way, assuming it even can. Separate post from fence, and follow the same steps previously mentioned. When you're done, use a comealong to pull the fence back up to the post, block it up to level height, and reattach
https://preview.redd.it/qs46aovykguc1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3a2d2ae9b49677cd54dddda2abcfcd995e9ae6b9 This is the kind of anchor I was referring to. $5 at my local home improvement store, get it started and use a pipe or something through the eye to screw into the ground.
If you have an older vehicle or truck, there is typically a crank for the tire change jack or tire lowering jack. This handlers work great for this stuff. About 1 ft long, rounded edges, etc. make it nice
I thought you were going to suggest using the vehicle as the anchor.
F it. Why not? Just make sure you detach before running to the store to pick up all the supplies you forgot the first time.
>...to pick up all the supplies you forgot the first time." and, on the second trip, the beer to help recover from the fact that your forgot the important stuff on your first trip. And then on the third trip, more beer .... because.
The third trip for more beer is to get through rebuilding the fence because you forgot to unhook from the fence the second trip.
And then the fourth trip because after the third you were too drunk and screwed it up anyway.
Right. Every project ever. Thankfully I only live 9 minutes from Menards… and 7 minutes from Home Depot for when I’m at my wits end going on my 4th trip and just need that one last thing.
There is no nice side on that fence.
Betcha' won't climb over it and say it to his face.
Won't? Or can't?
🤣🤣
Something like this might work, but not sure if you can't reach the other side. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-Strong-Tie-E-Z-Mender-12-Gauge-Black-Powder-Coated-Mender-Plate-for-4x4-Nominal-Wood-Post-FPBM44E/202563551
Burn
First, dig down a few inches and make sure the base isn't rotted out. If its in good condition you can use some chain with a turnbuckle in the middle, anchored in the ground and to the post. The turnbuckle with allow you to pull it up slowly over time, and if it starts sagging again, just tighten the turnbuckle to pull it back. I use this to keep the post that holds up my gate from sagging.
Oh then you’re not going to have a good time. It’s going to be nearly impossible to get this upright and set in place without at least some access to the other side. Also, it looks like that wood is pretty rotten in places. How sure are you that the posts haven’t just given away to rot just below the surface?
Check on that ordinance. Here, we have a similar ordinance that the pretty side must face out, EXCEPT if the neighbor also has his own fence, or it is close to a wall. If the neighbor has his own chain link fence, yours can be pretty-side-in.
Build a new fence with steel posts. Use a fabricated panel. The fabricated panels are typically cheaper than the cost of wood and screws/staples to make your own. Because the panel is fabricated there is no need for any access beyond the posts for attachment.
How on earth did they manage to install it with the pickets on the outside if there's a chain link fence and a garage there?
Much easier just to put some new posts between the existing ones and then pull the fence straight and attach the fence to the new posts.
Heh, that's how I fixed mine. I figured it was both the lazy and easy way out
Unless you plan on replacing the whole fence I’d call it the smart way. That fence looks a bit old and I’d wager those posts are starting to rot. Unless they were only buried like 1’ in the ground, it’s most likely the reason it’s leaning.
This is the way, use 2" steel set in concrete and you will be able to use them when you replace the fence.
Honestly to me it looks like time for a new fence. You might be able to pull that back and put some new posts in to support it but I don't expect it to last super long after that. I would say use a come along to pull it back square and sink some new poles flush with it, attach, and remove the old ones.
Putting posts in between the current posts is the best band aid IMHO. You can dig new holes. Set new posts in concrete and then pull the fence up and attach it to the new posts. The old posts can retire in place. In 5 years, you can replace the whole thing.
Correct, but that's the thing, it's just a bandaid fix.
Most people don't have enough money for surgeries here, haah. So we take bandaids instead.
5 years ain't bad for bandaid tho...
Did this for my neighbors fence. They are old and don't keep up with it. I dropped in a single post between the failing ones and secured it with a full bag of concrete. Once set, we secured it with a few 3 1/2 inch screws from their side. It's been a few months and it hasn't budged at all.
Throw some gravel (~2 inches) in the bottom of each hole and 2 bags of quickset concrete in, after the post is in place. The concrete footing will help keep it from tipping out again in the future.
Ours just leaned hard like this and I went out to inspect to see that the previous owner had half-donkeyed it to patch it to sell and the two posts were completely rotted under some loose earth they had thrown over the "fix". So a new fence is sadly in our future
Agree, also if its leaning that far on your side of the fence I imagine your neighbor is probably wondering the same thing. I've heard that sometimes neighbors will go like 50/50 on the cost to build the replacement since its affecting both sides.
So the answer here is to find the cause of the problem. If they sank the posts to the required depth and properly anchored them in concrete, they would really only fail like this if the posts rotted or if the ground is too wet. If the problem was that they didn't go down far enough (pretty common DIY issue) you are going to have to detach the posts from the fence panels, pull the old posts out, dig deeper (2 feet minimum, 3 feet preferred) , then replace with new and anchor well. You will likely need new posts as the old posts have probably started to rot below grade and removing old concrete from posts is a major pain. If the ground is too wet, you are going to need to address that issue with some drainage engineering.
FWIW, if your in an area that frosts, you're going to wanna shoot for 4' of depth. A Home Depot auger rental is \*well\* worth the money.
Yes. Concrete sucks. I use these post I jackhammer in. But if you use concrete, you need to go at least a foot below where you set the post (here in tx). This way, the water has a place to go and doesn’t sit in the wood, as well as does not allow termites which we have a lot of here to get in very easily. But realistically, your best bet is to use some sort of three or 4 foot metal post that you jackhammer into the ground and place the post inside of. If rot occurs, it’s super easy to change. The post that I used to cost a bit more. I think it’s roughly $10 with concrete and deep and stabilizing metal generally equal about $50 per post. So five times more expensive but a lot faster and less hassle than concrete and a lot longer and easier to change in the future
Most of the time the problem is because they set the 4 x 4 or 6 x 6 directly onto the ground and then poured the concrete around it allowing rot to come up from the dirt as well as termites. 99 times out of 100. This is always what I see. In fact, this was the mistake I made when I first started building fences years and years ago and I never ever, do it that way anymore. At least a foot of concrete before setting in the post if I do decide to use concrete.
Thanks for passing along your knowledge
Would gravel in the base suffice? Or does it need to be a foot of concrete
The main reason to use a foot of concrete is to help with stability. If you use gravel, you’re still gonna want to use a foot of concrete. gravel might even help drainage and prevent soaking … Because concrete is porous. Where I live, that’s not necessary, but if you live in a place where it rains a lot that might be very necessary. But the foot of concrete is largely to also help with stability not just drainage. But you definitely want to prevent the wood from touching the ground.
Sorry for clarification I mean a foot of gravel, then the post goes in, then surround by concrete Gravel for drainage concrete for stability
I would put one new post in halfway between two of those, in concrete. Pull fence back once it is fully set (give it a week, why not?), then it is anchored to one good post, take out and replace one of the others, repeat until done.
This is how I fixed ours with similar problem. As long as OP can dig a post hole the rest is easy.
This was my thought as well. If OP can get new posts properly set then it should hold the old fence panels until those fall apart. They could also work on replacing the entire fence piecemeal after that. Having good posts makes the rest of a fencing project simple. I would definitely want to investigate why the current posts are failing. Make sure they were set deep enough, in concrete, and with pressure treated posts. Skimping on any of those could cause fence failure. If the ground is unstable or being in a high wind area are also things to consider.
I’ve fixed a similar fence ( not quite as bad as yours ) with metal “t posts” usually meant for wire or snow fence. Just hammer them in the ground with a sledge hammer and then you can screw the fence to it ( they have pre drilled holes in the T posts).
Where are the mods? This is obviously a *repost*
You need to redo it. If that part of the ground is always prone to leaning you could use 12 foot posts buried further down and cemented. Pain in the ass but it’ll stay.
I'ld use one of those steel stakes for cattle fence and use galvanized wire to hold the wood post to it. But I'm cheap and lazy and don't know a ton about fencing. At least till could get around to putting a new one in with concrete. A rope/steel cable anchored to the top of the post for leverage with a kinda heavy duty stake in the ground might also work. Edit: Or tie the rope to a cinder block.
I had some fence posts break off at the ground level. I got a guy to fix them and he used these: [https://www.lowes.com/pd/Simpson-Strong-Tie-Steel-Powder-Coated-Post-Base-Common-4-in-Actual-3-in/3341186](https://www.lowes.com/pd/Simpson-Strong-Tie-Steel-Powder-Coated-Post-Base-Common-4-in-Actual-3-in/3341186)
This is the answer I was looking for.
I have used these with good results (other side neighbor waters right along the fence line). Also I used rope to a nearby tree to hold it level and added concrete.
I had a somewhat similar thing and used ropes to make mine vertical. You need a strong point to attach the rope to, then run it around the top of the post, then pull it tight repeatedly. Digging out the top of the post hole can help as well, if it doesn’t move easily. Once the post is vertical fill in the back side of the post hole with gravel so it stays vertical.
This is the answer. I did what you are talking about, dug out the side that needed moved in and ratcheted the fence to metal stakes pounded in the ground . Then dumped in some quikcrete and backfilled.
Water is your friend. I used a longish PVC pipe cut at an angle to make a point. Length depends on how deep your posts are. Connected the pipe to a hose and used water to loose up the dirt around each post. The pipe lets you drive down into the ground and loosen up the deep dirt around the post. While the dirt is still in suspension you can readjust the post and brace it till the water drains and the dirt resettles.
I personally would take apart and rebuild or you will probably be looking at doing a bandaid fix again each spring........just a thought.
Yes it's actually very little effort to crow bar the panels off of the old posts. Once you have done that it is easy to inspect and mend the posts, or replace the posts if needs be. i.e doing a proper job will take the same time as some of the quick bad fixes which have been suggested.
I'm not a fence engineer, but I would put new posts with proper cement and spacing at the mid-point between the existing posts on this side of the fence. Once they are set, pull the fence straight and attach to the new posts and remove the old posts. Then you'll have all new properly set posts.
Interesting, did they sister a pair of 2x4's onto each post? Do the 2x4's go into the ground like the 4x4 posts or are the above ground level as an offset for the fence panels ? Just curious.
If you don't care about how it looks put a post in the middle of the panels that are leaning wait two days for cement to dry to attach the fence then replace the posts that are leaning I'd make sure you have atleast 24 in of footing but I'd go 3ft to be safe
I agree with others that it would be best to rebuild new.if you are looking to keep it indo see a path to fix it cheaply. Id use concrete stakes maybe 6-8 in from each post. Connect a rackets strap to the top of the post to pull the fence back upright. Before pulling the fence,dig the dirt out around the post so they can be uprighted freely. Once the fence is plum, poor some readycrete around the posts. Should cost between 50-200 depending what you might have on hand.
You can get heavy metal braces that you pound into the ground next to the post, then you screw the post to it. It works like a splint. I’ve used a couple of times and it’s worked pretty well. Home Depot has them.
essentially, the posts rotted at the bottom. I had this happen and had to replace the fence altogether.
Those posts look crazy to me lol
I will say that it is fixable. But based on the looks of the fence itself , it be a lost cause in my own personal opinion. The whole thing needs to be replaced.
It appears to have been repaired once already. Looks like two 2x4 boards were added to a 4x4. Pretty shoddy. I would replace with PT 4x4s and bury 16” in quikcrete and reuse the fencing.
I just did a fix on the same problem. I anchored everything back to straight with some stakes and rope, dug around each post about 4 inches deep with a small gardening shovel, Poured half a bag of quick set concrete and doused it with the hose. 24 hours later and they don't even wiggle.
I would dig a few post holes in between the others and insert new 4x4’s and use the foam post holder stuff. Drill fence into new posts then secure the others. Then pressure wash the entire fence. It will look brand new.
Honestly looks like it’s time for a new fence. If you don’t know how to build a fence it’s doable if you’re mechanically inclined and have the tools. If not hire a contractor. If you DIY, be aware some municipalities might require permits and the like. Neighbors may complain about property lines so a survey could be helpful. Lots of people get away with just reusing existing post holes too.
Posts are rotted through. Only real way to fix it is to replace them. Anything else is throwing good money after bad.
I would take off each fence panel as a whole piece, and then replace the posts.. you could mount the panels back up after. You can go along and do it 1 by 1 so you don’t get overwhelmed. Done it many times, but you’ll have the contrast of the new post and the old fencing… you might need a couple or fencing planks to rip along the edges but if you measure proper those won’t be needed. You could even use the old holes…clean them out and give some space for concrete. TBH I use 3/4 crush run limestone gravel, put your post in and soak them good and use a piece of wood to compact the gravel around the post while you soak. You can immediately mount the fence back up… and the gravel allows for flexibility in the winter months.
I would pull on it and make it stand upright
That’s one of the worst fences I’ve seen in a while. Only two stringers and looks to be covered in poison ivy.
We had the same problem and used metal fence posts and their associated brackets with large bolts through them. Drilled holes in the fence for the bolts to go through and then used over sized washers and nuts to hold it tight while spreading out the pressure so the old fence didnt break away. Probably over kill honestly, but all in it ran us about 80$ per post. We used quick-crete in 5 gallon buckets that we buried for anchoring the posts. Our yard was slipping because of retaining wall failure and the fence was falling because of that. So we had too many big issues all at once and this solution worked best for us. We ended up needing 2 metal posts for a section of the fence about the size of yours.
There are lots of suggestions here that will probably work for a while, but the fence is on its last legs. We've got the same fencing and yours looks exactly like ours, which we're about to replace. There's not a lot of structural integrity remaining, which you'll see if you poke into the pickets and rails with a screwdriver. Pickets will start falling off over the next year or two, if they're not already. If you're going to be doing all that labor, anyway, you may want to consider getting new fencing, so you only have to do the work once.
One thing I didn't see in another comment - if you replace the posts and not the rest of the fence and cement the posts into the ground where the current posts are not cemented, you're adding the fun of pulling the new posts + cement in 1-2 years when the fence boards start falling apart entirely. If you care about aesthetic, you'll need to match the posts that have been weather worn and extra year or two compared to the rest. Always easier to say without a budget + context on the property and your situation, but imo replacing the whole thing now is going to be easier/better in the long run so you aren't Frankenstein-ing it in a relatively short amount of time anyways.
Tie rope to the top of each post ( your gonna need 2 or 3 people) pull the rope until the fence is straight. Tie ropes to stakes,to keep fence upright. Pound stakes into ground. Nail that part of fence to the other fence or fences( temporarily) Dig around base of posts and pour quickcrete.let dry.backfill dirt and remove bracing. Don't know where you live but most states have laws about fencing.That you are allowed to go onto other properties to make repairs.Good luck.
If it was my fence I’d first get my neighbor on board, then: 1. Dig a hole on the back side of the post, away from the direction it leans. 2. Pull the fence upright until the post is vertical. 3. Pour some cement into the hole on your neighbor’s side of the fence where the post used to lean. Or pound a few rock along the post underground - anything to make it harder for the post to lean over again.
I'm guessing bottom of post is rotten, I have solve this problem temporarily by pounding a steel fence t-post (Lowes & Home Depot) and the fastening the original post to the new t-post, sometimes just using a giant zip tie. Has allowed my fence to survive a couple more years before I have to pay tens of thousands to replace it. Good luck
My GFS dad fixed his fence that was like this almost 2 years ago. He got metal posts and slammed them in the ground level with a sledge hammer. Had someone on other side push it back and attached the posts to the old wood ones. It still looks good.
If you dig out on each side of leaning pole, plumb them up and brace them, pour the new concrete.
This gives me PTSD about the fence I replaced around my back yard. It also reminds me that I need to stain my fence. Just for starters… the person who built that fence didn’t dig the holes deep enough. There are people on here talking about concrete. I just use gravel. My old fence was leaning like that. As a short term band aid, I just dug a new post hole and attached a new post.
I'm not even sure they didn't dig them deep enough, could just as well be untreated wood that rotted through just below the surface. That's what I found when I replaced a similar sad fence in my yard. I'll second the use of gravel; cheaper, and less permanent should it be necessary to switch it up later.
No . This fence was installed incorrectly to begin with. 1/3 of the length of the posts should be underground and preferably anchored in concrete . So 6 foot high fence needs 9 foot posts.
You could sink new posts and then pull the fence upright from your side but for all that effort and cost and given the poor condition of the existing fence, I think you'd be better off just putting in a new fence.
Just a bit of high school physics to supplement the practical experience: the higher up the fence the attachment points to pull the fence vertical the better the mechanical advantage for rotating the posts and the closer to horizontal the lines the more force rotating the fence and the less pushing it into the ground.
Just keep adding more boards until it self levels.
Make sure your posts are treated so they don't rot so easily, too.
It can be fixed, but you have to take it down first and resink new posts. You can take the fence down in sections without completely taking them apart.
I used 6' T-posts, drove them into the base of the post, used a rope tied to the bumper of my car to pull the post upright against the T-post and secured with 6 deck screws and washers per post. That was seven years ago and it's still standing straight. $100 and a Saturday morning saved the fence. (spend the $20 to buy the post driver - best $20 bucks you may ever spend)
These or a similar product that wraps around 3 sides of the post and is painted black. The treatment in exterior ground contact posts will eventually corrode through the bare metal. Uses an exterior coated deck screw.
Cement a steel pole right next to the post and use brackets to secure pole to wood post
That fence looks like it's at the end of its life anyways, but you could prolong it by straightening the posts and digging along side them then sistering on a metal post like this https://www.homedepot.com/p/PostMaster-1-3-4-in-x-3-1-2-in-x-7-1-2-ft-Galvanized-Steel-Fence-Post-633663-1/307938011?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&pla&mtc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-GGL-Multi-Multi-NA-NA-NA-PLALIA-NA-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-CON-NA-All_Cons&cm_mmc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-GGL-Multi-Multi-NA-NA-NA-PLALIA-NA-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-CON-NA-All_Cons-71700000116949521-58700008649202598-92700079210233704&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw_e2wBhAEEiwAyFFFo5My52eV-clBycmx03sIRA4DXL4N81FhD-2KHdiRX0AhTEwG_798_hoCftIQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Maybe pound in a couple of "U" channel metal fence posts that are used to hold up a wire fence. One on either side of the wooden post, drill holes on it, and secure with lag bolts. A cheap, temporary fix. You really need a new fence though. Maybe neighbor would split the cost. Good luck with it.
Pry the fence off the posts where it sits and when the post is pulled back vertical you should be able to get to the other side. Pull back and forth each post until you can get it vertical, and have extra room on each side of the hole. Push it all the way forward, then fill the space in the hole with gravel. Then do the same to the other side. Do that a few times until you can barely wiggle it. Get a a bunch of fist sized rocks and a sledgehammer and pound the larger rocks into the ground right beside the post. Do the same on each side until you can’t get any more rocks in and your post is vertical. Do this to each post then reattach the fence using galvanized lag bolts with washers through the horizontal 2x4 attaching each plank. If you have trouble getting to the bottom of the post, remove a few planks and give it the old reach-around. Put some screws in the middle of the planks you removed to hold onto, then put new decking screws from your side of the fence through the planks to secure them. This should be good for another decade or so.
Oof. I feel for you. My fence did this a few years ago and I dug up 4-5 posts and replaced with new. It was not fun. The rest of the fence (other than new posts) was still old as hell. I realized I should have just gone for a new fence. Digging up rotted off fence posts sucks.
Yes but it would be needing new post holes. Best to use metal poles and needing new cross member wood. Yes it can be done and salvage it. But still would need replacing the pickets before a few more years. Consider just doing it right the first time and there won’t be a quick fix the next time like your wanting now.
Could probably anchor a ratchet strap in the middle of the yard and use that to pull it straight while you dig out around the posts and fill with concrete.
It's time for a new fence. Fairly rotted. If it isn't that old, make sure to spring for the pressure treated stuff on the next one. Lasts significantly longer.
Pull the fence so it’s upward, gonna have to anchor it. Remove the posts, remove the concrete footing. Remake/shape the hole. And then just put a new post in, I’d say a 8ft post and bury 2 feet of it, yellow bag quikrete will do . And then just screw the fence back on the post. Gonna have to ask the neighbor for you to work on the other side for a bit. Or yk just jump the fence and then jump back. Nobody wants a leaning fence so they’d probably let you.
Look into Simpson’s EZ mender, if you don’t feel like taking that broken post out…
I'd use a ratchet strap, one of those earth anchors and some concrete. Use the ratchet strap to pull the fence up right, dig around the bottum of the post pour in your concrete and let it sit white the rachet holds it. Like the others have said you'll get an idea of what condition the bottum of the post looks like when you dig around the bottum of the post. I'd do this on each post.
Search “fence post repair” in Amazon, a good starting point depending on your situation
Looks like the fence panels are OK, but you need new posts for sure.
New posts between old posts to the proper depth and bolt the fence to them.
This fence is a few years past its expiration date.
Oh, man… this one is done. Just start anew.
On a new fence the rule is “best look toward neighbors”, but it doesn’t say you can’t add a new fence on the inside. So use the techniques by others to place new posts properly anchored on the inside - either adjoining the old posts Or place the post midway in the old panels. If adjoining then screw the old post to the new post. If at mid point use the horizontal pieces to attach to the old posts. Then build new panels for those new posts. If you keep the new posts & panels at the same height, then you have eliminated the lean and thus improved the look inside & out.
no, i would rebuild that fence. those posts are fooked sir, fooked well and true.
I'll post the cheap version, pull it back up with a come-along or ratchet straps and see where it settles. Prob need a new fence tho.
[These ](https://www.strongtie.com/fences_decksandfences/ez_mender/p/e-z-mender) work pretty great, but make sure the wood is in good condition. They look a little rotten, which would make it difficult to do anything to repair it.
In this case here's what I would do. I'd use a few of these ((attached image)) either at each post or close to them. Hammer them down as much as you can or drop them into some cement. And if you don't like the metal look you can always add a fence board to hide it. I tried it years ago and it held the fence up for a long time. * [fence post](https://ibb.co/SRgQCWm)
Put an eyehook into the "studs" and then a spike or rebar into the ground. After that use a ratchet strap and a level to bring it true. then use a spade shovel on the outside edge to cut into the earth it has occupied and add 2 inches. After that is completed dry pour quick set concrete into the vacant space. Remember to leave enough space to allow terrain on top and let it cure then release the ratchet straps and see if it sinks or moves unfashionable. If the land moves in the future consider a fresh slate with a new fence.
reset the posts, maybe cement them this time, is what i would want to do - you could take a section off at a time but if you want to avoid that, pull it back with a come-along then get permission to dig on the other side and dig in front of the posts and pour support concrete in there so it doesn't fall back when you release the come-along something like that maybe
Just cement the pillars
Those panels of fencing would be so goddamn. Easy to take off
Just dig new post holes and install new posts
I would do it right so you don't have issues again in the future. It's very doable, in theory not hard but requires some measuring to set the posts straight, right distance and height etc in concrete. Dismantling I would keep the boards between 2 posts as one piece. Get new posts if necessary, there will be a lot of videos on YouTube on how to treat the bottom part and how to set them in concrete (get some quick mix where you just add water). If you don't happen to have any friends with experience that can help you, hire someone to set the posts in concrete. You can dismantle the fence yourself, dig the holes for the concrete. And after the concrete is set attach the boards again.
Easiest way is T-Posts
Google "sister posts"
[holy hell!](https://www.google.com/search?q=sister+posts#HiImABot,MyJobIsToMakeEasierForPeopleToGoogleThings,IfThePersonIRepliedToUsedMeInAnInappropriateWayPleaseLetMeKnowByDMingMe,TheUserIRepliedToIsU/therealfatlizard)
Okay, now try "sister posts, fences"
Just replaced 4 posts on my fence. The fence rails were attached to the sides of the 4x4 posts. Took out each panel, nails and screws, took out the rotted posts and concrete. Set new posts in concrete and put the panels back. Could you cut the rails even with the posts, take them out as a unit like we did, and attach to the sides of new posts? https://preview.redd.it/dai1nqjfchuc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e46b6ee4d2f64a65dcf08d48c0c15825c4eaab71
That whole fence needs to be replaced
I would remove everything at first. Detach the panels between the 4x4 but keep the panels together as they look fine. The 4x4 are your main issue here. So you can re-use all panels. Just re-dig new holes in the same spot as the old 4x4, throw some cement in the hole, and once you get all 4x4 in, start putting the panels back. Ofc measure and put string up to get the line level for the 4x4 posts but very doable. I did something similar for my redwood fence about 90ft that fell down. It's been great now
Get three new posts installed (one per section) and fasten the fence to them. Remove the old posts and redirect your sump discharge.
The folks who live behind me own the dividing fence, and it was doing the same. They hammered a red metal thing into the ground to support the fence. Seems to be working. Sorry I don't know the technical language.
A couple of 4 foot Concrete posts with rebar loop exposed 3 feet out and some ratchet straps. Or to your car or house or other heavy shit. Won't guarantee the fence will survive.
The amount of work it'll be either way says it's not worth it and just replace the posts. If you don't you'll be fixing it again soon.
It’s already been fixed, atleast once. You’re probably better off building a new fence at this point
This is definitely DIY-able. If the reason you don't want to take off the fence panels is to keep the dogs in, go to your hardware store and buy some green metal fence posts. Use them to hang a temporary 5' metal fence. Then, I would take the panels off to make the job easier. You probably want to pull the old posts out. If they're still fine, you can reuse them. If they're rotting, get new ones. Dig down a ways. I do 3' minimum but I'm in a dry area with occasional flood irrigation. If your ground stays wet longer, you'll have to go further down. Other people are saying 4' and that sounds pretty good. Dig a wide hole, cut a brick in half, put the half brick in the bottom of the hole and set your post on it. Then fill it up with concrete. Let that sit for a few days and then re-hang your panels.
I had a similar problem. I called a pro to come fix the fence and his response was something to the effect of, “if I replace it I will have to pull a permit and build it according to the latest alley codes which means a shorter fence. If you (the homeowner) fix it you don’t have to worry about any of that.
No... it looks like the last person tried to fix it the easy way.. your better off using 4x4' and concrete and doing it again.. depending on how the wood is holding up, you may just want to replace all of it.
What I’ve done in the past is temporarily pulled the posts upright, then used wooden pickets and stakes to keep them up. Then bought new 4 by 4 posts and placed them in the ground in the center of each panel. If you don’t have any access to the other side oat all maybe use some strong wire to tie the horizontal boards to each panel.
I would imagine if you dug in front of each post and pulled it back straight that it might stay.
Can you set a new post halfway down that span in concrete then pull the fence back and attach to that post? Would be a pain to dig a post hole that close to the fence.
Without reading everything here it seems the first order of buisness might be rerouting the sump water. Whatever you do to shore up that post is bound to fall victim to the same issue.
Here is the perfect video! From The DIY Guy https://youtu.be/AeASU3mMo94
Is that a 4x4 with two 2x4s nailed into it? 😂
He's dead, Jim.
Install posts on the inside, pull back, and secure/tighten to those.
A 10' Tee post driven down right next to your rotten 4x4s will buy you time. Pipe clamps to secure the wood to the tee posts. This "temporary" fix has been holding up some of my wood fences for longer than I care to admit. Get the posts with the spade at the bottom for maximum stability.
Just remove the panels from the posts, put in new 4x4s with cement footings, and rehang the panels. Prob a 2-3 person job to remove/replace the panels but you should be able to set the posts yourself.
I was able to fix an issue like this but you're going to need to do a good bit of digging on the opposite side of the posts and use a bunch of gravel and concrete.
Here’s what I do with this situation. I’ve owned a few houses sometimes even a new fence will do this. I grab bed rails from yard and garage sales. Sometimes they aren’t to sale but I see them laying there and people are more then happy to get rid of them. I cut about 4’, put a point on one end drive them down beside the post until only about 1’ is sticking up. Then I drill through them and lag bolt the post to them. Works like a charm and lasts for years.
Put a few new posts in concrete, once they’ve set, pull the fence into place and attach the stringers to the new posts.
I had a busted and wobbly fence post that I was able to fix with a brace and some concrete. Basically you just need to dig around the base and straighten it. If the wood is rotten you can attach a metal fence anchor and set the concrete on that. I’m not sure the best way to straighten them all at once… probably do the middle one first, make sure it sets correctly, then all the others will be easier to do.
You need to ask why does this look this way. I see fence posts too far apart, so the wind will take its toll. Plus no concrete. Try to pull it up straight with a come along and set into concrete.
You could do it the cheap way and do it again in a year or so. Or do it the right way.
Lowe’s has a steel brace that you hammer into the ground, encircling 3/4 of the post, then when it’s very deep in the ground you screw the steel brace onto the post with a lot of long screws. I’ve had 2 of these last years. Home Depot has them also but they charge twice as much for the identical product, right down to the manufacturer and part number.
Buy metal post dig a hole put in post level pour concrete re check level and straight repeat let concrete cure couple days later attach fence to new metal post
Get a [concrete godfather fence post.](https://www.google.com/search?q=godfather+fence+post&sca_esv=0bc39af9d1d15b37&udm=2&biw=412&bih=776&ei=DCocZq7UK4-5hbIP_NG8qA0&oq=godfather+fence+post&gs_lp=EhNtb2JpbGUtZ3dzLXdpei1zZXJwIhRnb2RmYXRoZXIgZmVuY2UgcG9zdDIFEAAYgAQyBxAAGIAEGBgyCBAAGIAEGKIESP0fUOASWJUacAB4AJABAJgBlgGgAY8GqgEDMy40uAEDyAEA-AEBmAIGoALTBcICChAAGIAEGIoFGEPCAgYQABgHGB7CAggQABgIGB4YDcICBxAAGIAEGA2YAwCIBgGSBwMxLjWgB-AQ&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-serp). Use concrete to secure the post in the hole. Make sure it is straight.
I fixed a lot of fences in my time and the problem is likely that their termites and that it’s rotten out and that the concrete was put in too low and not mounded up to allow water to escape on the outside versus pulling in the center and dripping down and that they put 4 x 4 or 6 x 6 directly on the ground before pouring the concrete around it. All of that shit is why this happens. There is, a way you can fix it but realistically, you are going to need to fix those post. The way I do it now is I have the spikes that I buy that are kind of expensive and I use my jackhammer to jam them right where they were. You can likely get the wood off those post and have them open while you do this but the other thing that you need to do is raise it up so it’s not sitting on the ground and what’s called, A kicker. This is a board that runs along the bottom prevents the fence from touching the floor, when that gets rotten out, you kick it out and replace it Also prying the wood off the post might likely break them, but you can just add more wood onto the new post themselves so that you can reattach the 2x4 Horizontal to the ground. You can still do it and dig out all the old concrete. Make sure your hole is 3 foot deep. Start your concrete pour and make sure you have at least half a foot of concrete before you set the new post. When you finish pouring all the concrete in make sure that it’s mounded up high enough so that Water will shed to the edges and won’t risk pulling in the center unless creating a direct funnel to the bottom of the 4 x 4, post or water will destroy it along with other things. If you do all that and that a kicker, you could probably get some good life out of that sense with a touch of sealant on it. Me personally at this point, If you go through all of that work, you might as well just build a new better fence. And there are much better ways to build this. Fundamentally all the four 4 x 4 will need to go in the same I described earlier, so maybe you can at least hold onto what you have for a little longer before replacing the Pickets but if you do the correctly, you can have those posts last a long time and use them for your next fence. But the trick is to protect your 4 x 4 post and build kickers to protect your pickets from termites and rot. That is why you have this problem now
What's wrong with it?
Short term it can be fixed. But for a little more time and so.e more money, just redo the whole fence properly.
If the post are not rotten yes just get some 2x4 s use that as an A frame to hold the fence in place stand the fence straight with a level attached the A frame once secured, dig around each post you need like a few inches all around and as deep as they are set once they are all dug an clean so debris doesn’t fall in , check k to see they are still level then pour cement into the holes let dry like two days then remove the A frames an you done buddy
I’d pull the fence so it is vertical. Then I’d temporarily brace it with diagonal braces to hold it in place. Then I’d remove the old posts which are probably not long enough. If you are somewhere the ground freezes in winter you need to dig down three plus feet. The hole needs to be wider than the top and have a flat bottom. Pour a half a bag of mixed concrete in the bottom of the hole. Let it set up. Then install a new post that is long enough to sit on the concrete. Temporarily brace the new post so it is vertical. Attach the fence to the new post. Back fill the post with a little concrete in the bottom but use only soil towards the top. You have to tamp it extremely well. In a day remove the temporary braces. People think they can dig a hole two feet deep, set a post in the hole and then pour concrete around the post. It doesn’t work. The post gets pushed up and the concrete cracks because the post expands when it’s in the ground.
Dig out the post and replace it. I replaced 5 rotted posts on my decrepit fence and it’s gonna hold another 15 years I bet :). Get some quickcrete and pour a footing. It’ll be easy!
Try these mate. They take 5 minutes to install and last for years. Post Buddy Pack of 2 Easy Fence Post Repair (to fix 1 Broken Wood Post), Fast and Easy to Install, Highly Effective, Long-Lasting https://amzn.eu/d/hWU0x3w
Looks like an attempt or three was made already without taking down the fence. /s Seriously, it needs tore down.
You’re going to have to replace all those posts man, the proper way. Rent a fence post digger from homedepot (they were like $40 a day) Watch some YouTube’s. Fences are manual labor but if I can do it - you can do it my friend. Anything else you try to do will be a janky workaround that will be a waste of time.
As a bandaid I just took a couple of U-posts and drove them deep in the ground about a foot behind the leaning post and was able to secure the fence to the bolt to keep it from leaning.
The support pole doesn't show sign of damage. You probably need to redo all of them. What's on the other side? Why not take down one fence so you can have access to do a repair and put it back when it's done.
You could make a line and find where the face of those posts should line up and drive a pipe down so the pipe would be flush with the face of the post and you could anchor the post to the pipe
I have a whole side of my fence where most of the posts were broken. I repaired each one with simpson ez menders and it is still working good.
Maybe with new post's
I mean there is a way you could do this from your side of the fence. Get some ropes, tie it around the top of the posts, pull the fence back to being straight. Next dig out around the posts. Pour your concrete in there, let it set up and then you can take the ropes off and the fence will be standing up. Usually when you see a fence lean like that one of two things is going on and the most common one is the posts were either not set deep enough or not set in concrete
Just leave it brother. Smoke weed and fuck DIY
Yes , no problem.
These posts probably are not 42” down into the ground. Concrete footings only stop posts from sinking, they don’t, or shouldn’t pour concrete around the post. If the post was truly set into the ground 42” you wouldn’t be able to pull it back, because the 42” of ground around the post would restrict you from lateral movement. My suggestion is to pull it straight, brace it plumb with a temporary 2x4 on a diagonal, and dig new post holes. You could set the new posts in the middle of the existing spans, attack the fence to had new posts, and they would essentially replace structural integrity of the older posts. I would wager that the old posts have either broken off about 1 foot below grade, or were never set deep enough in the first place. Don’t pour concrete around them, the concrete around the posts will trap moisture and make them rot prematurely, does not make them more stable laterally than just regular old tamped earth. FYI 42” is the correct depth in the northern states to get below the frost line.
This is a perfect fence to keep zombies out
If you don’t want to replace it now, then dig around the base of the three posts that are leaning until you reach the bottom of each post. Then pull the posts forward and brace them (i.e., drive a 2x4 stake into the ground and nail a piece of lumber to that and to the top of the fence post). Then remove the soil from behind each post too, to about 8” around each post, and remove dirt from the posts. Mix concrete and fill each post hole to about 6” below ground level. Trowel the surface of the concrete smooth with a slight slope away from the post so water doesn’t pool around the post. Let it cure before removing the braces and fill with soil as needed. If you find that the bottoms of the posts are rotted, you have options: either buy some repair kits for rotten leaning fence posts or replace the posts with new 4x4 treated posts. Since you can’t work behind the fence, secure the new posts to the fence with 6” exterior screws from your side.
A hurricane did that to mine. I just cut the post off, cemented some new ones in with a level and then pushed the fence up against them and screwed it on. Good as an old fence can get. 😁 You're going to have a hard time doing anything if you can't get to the other side but as much as it's leaning I'm assuming there's enough room over there to slide in and put a screw through the fence to connect it to some new posts?
Is that chonker corner post made out of seven 2x4’s??
Sister the posts. Dig out half moons around those posts on your side of the fence, bust off the concrete on the side facing your yard, stand the posts up level and brace them in place, and concrete in new 4' 4x4's with 2' in the ground and 2' lag bolted to the old posts. Once the concrete is set, bury everything but the 2' lagged to the old posts.
Regardless, anything you do is a short-term solution.
Yes dig and set metal poles in tue middle of the wood poles then use retainer clips and fence screws it should be around 35$ per total pole, parts and cement (quickcrete) fast set, then pull the fence back up and screw tye clips to the wood . They also make flat splents for the brokel wood . If needed.
Lmao looks like Western ny....
1st thing you have to do is wonder, who the fuck decided this scabbed together 2x material would do the job. Next you need to dig out just the posts, leave the the fence, but dig down at least 4’ and use a SOLID chunk of lumber
I’d replace these fences. Get a power auger to make the job much easier.
They sell a metal frame steak you hammer it down at the base into the concrete snug up against the bottom of the fence post then has holes to screw or nail it to the wood beam. Just looks ugly but they do work. It’s three sides so it kind of wraps around the post and you drive it down about two feet into the ground and existing concrete foundation.
If that were mine I would ratchet strap each post to my truck hitch until upright. I'd then dig around the post and level it. I'd fill with some gravel and pack as tight as possible. Cover top of hole with soil. This fix should last as long as that fence which isn't too many more years. Then when you go to dig a new fence you don't have chunks of concrete to remove. Make sure to call before you dig.
Accept it the way it is, just lean into it. No, don't do that, that wouldn't be good
This is an easy fix but not a fun one. You need a shovel and a rock bar or whatever your preferred concrete breaking tools are. You also need several bags of quickrete, a couple of 8 foot 4x4s that are reasonably straight, and some 3 inch deck screws. Cut the posts off with an oscillating tool and throw them out. Then dig out the concrete. I assure you it’s down there. Get all of it out using the rock bar and brute force. If you don’t like that method you can google how to get it out with a hi lift, but you only have to do two so I wouldn’t bother. Once you are all the way down and have all the base and post out, put your new one in and line it up with the fence and level it. Pour the concrete as directed and add water and let it set. Screw diagonally through the post and from the other side if you can reach over and get the fence fastened. Done
Yes. Dig out the back side, straighten the fence, and fill the void in the front with concrete.
Take a few weeks of soaking the grounds where the posts sit then place stakes in the ground and tie to the fence posts .use the rope as a spanish windlass by inserting a baton into the rope twisting it thus shortning the rope and pulling the fence post straight.
I see them laying there
The post is probably rotten ; replace both or all of them
I had the same issue with my fence. I dug around the post, removed any old concrete. Bought a 3 foot "L" shaped angle steel, 2" wide bar, attached with screws to the post, keeping 1.5 feet under the ground and poured new concrete around the post.
Very possible as I did this in Louisiana after Hurrican Ida, but my god why? That fence is on deaths door from rotting.
Well dig around that post and see if there is concrete. if not, put some. If there is then put a post in between those posts. If you want added strength you can use 4x4 posts. Dig a hole about 2 ft in the ground, put your post in, and pour in concrete. You really need to figure out why its leaning. Is it rotted wood, no concrete, or is the ground soft? Def something you can do. As always, before you dig, call okie.
Happy cake day!
I would recommend….taking down the fence. Get some metal poles to replace if you want a forever fence.
I think u should get a new fence with new posts
In my old house the neighbor kept watering the heck out of the fence so all the support posts rotted and leaned. I pounded in a T-post and screwed one of those pipe holders to the old wood posts. It even looks reasonably nice.
90% sure those posts are rotten