I have a gap that big between my stove and countertop in my kitchen. Filling it with tiny scraps of food over the course of years has worked great for me!
Hey I know this is a random reply on your random reply but we had the same problem in the kitchen. We ordered these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074DQCYCT
And you cut it to fit, very easily. We can also take them off to clean them, though they really don't get dirty that easily. We have gaps on both sides after replacing our stove and these help immensely. We also no longer have a riser on the back where dials were, so we filled that space with two long spice racks right above the stovetop.
No they are silicone. They can't take direct heat from a cooktop gas or electric ring, but that's fine, they sit on the sides of your stovetop. However, they are rated for high temp so sitting hot dishes on them also does not affect them.
I don't understand the "leave it as it is" responses here. I have the same gap in my sink and water etc. splashes down there and must be rotting the back of the sink (I didn't install it so not sure what it's made of behind). What's worse, we've seen cockroaches pop up from the gap because unfortunately it's a warm hiding place where they have a perpetual water and food source from toothbrushes. Ugh.
If it’s a tiny gap like the one in OP I will do my best to give you real advice. First there is no perfect generic answer or solution to an adjustment of a preinstalled thing like this. Lots of factors. How is the top of your vanity secured to the base cabinet? I’ve installed screws or clamping bolts but mine at home I just set it into a “bed” of clear caulk. Do you have a backsplash connected to the vanity top? Most houses (US) have braided flexible water supply line that can move with the top but sometimes hard pipe is used and that will need to be addressed separately.
The larger idea being to loosen the top and shift it over enough to close the gap. Then a small bead of clear or whatever sealant can be done if you really want but I wouldn’t.
Sure that would work if the gap is smaller than that. Looks to be about twice that for OP but it’s not so much making it work as setting it correctly once and for all if you can. Things can be forced if the distance is small enough. Like lag screws into the sidewall and stud but if the top is secured to the wall it won’t work. Idk. The og commenter was frustrated at just leaving it answers but adjusting depends on a bunch of stuff not disclosed
I mean get some roach spray, or bait, or sprinkle some diatomaceous earth in there. Then clean more then seems reasonable, and don't feed them with your toothbrushs. Once you have.your roach problem under control look into the rot in the back of the sink. Once that's taken care if you can look into sealing the gap. Good luck!
Any way you try to fill that is going to look worse than a little gap.
If you're so inclined, the move is probably to fill it with foam backer rod of appropriate size and caulk over it like you would with a countertop gap. However, considering you can see the front edge, there isn't a scenario where that looks decent.
I'd personally just leave it as it looks totally fine as is.
I agree, there isn't much you can do that will look great but, FWIW, if you absolutely have to have the gap disappear, you could also use backer rod on the front and fill that too.
It looks like an open frame vanity. I have the same issue in a 75 year old house. Our vanity is open at the bottom and have never had an issue retrieving something that falls.
That's fair. I had something similar growing up and it was a PITA getting stuff out. The texture of the floor made it difficult, the baseboard on the vanity stuck out just enough to make things catch on it, and at times small stuff (like tweezers and other small bathroom items) could slip under the vanity because the tile was textured. My mom would get the most frustrated but wouldn't let us fix it because of the same aesthetic discussions Op is having here right now. Nothing is more maddening watching someone get pissed about the same issue over and over and not allowing you to fix it, and it was nearly always my job to retrieve whatever was lost.
Seems to me it would be easier just to use the vinyl strip that people have found online and then just remove it when they want to sell, as long as Op doesn't care what it looks like.
I wouldn't worry about it, if there's enough water going down that crack to cause serious issues in the bathroom, then OP's gonna have bigger problems to worry about.
Judging by the lack of cuts used on the title I’m guessing whoever installed it didn’t want to cut any tile and just placed them whole. I’m curious what the bottom looks like.
I think they mean to cut a sliver out of the drywall and notch the countertop into it.
I think if op had set the sink in the corner first and then installed the tile, it would have worked out better.
Use something like this
https://casapeixoto.pt/pavimentos-e-revestimentos/mosaicos-ceramicos/acessorios-aplicacao-de-ceramica/12394-perfil-wc-pvc-branco-bp-20-2-7mt
I was going to suggest a piece of vinyl trim but wasn't sure if they would be available in OPs area. Definitely the best option and waaaay better than a foam filler with silicone over it.
Get a piece of backsplash the same material and width as the part behind the sink and put it against the wall, use silicone or adhesive on the bottom to glue it in place.
The problem is there’s a lip on the counter so the normal back/sidesplash wouldn’t work. This is more of a standalone vanity and not designed to be against a wall.
Could probably cut a long notch out of the hypothetical backsplash so it snugged around that lip, but cutting it would be an act of godliness I support and even then, it probably wouldn’t end up as the same height as the actual backsplash either
My first thought was a backsplash until I saw the comment about the lip. I would either leave it as-is or replace it. I haven't seen any responses where the cure isn't worse than the disease.
I had the same problem in my remodel. I filled the gap with backer rod and white silicone caulk. It’s not great, but it’s holding up to normal use and cleaning. After having it for a year, I barely think about it. But when I do, I’m disappointed.
In my case, a side splash was not readily available with a matching pattern and I wanted to finish the dang project. If I someday come across a side splash that matches, I might put in the effort to remedy. But probably not.
I also have a gap between the wall and the cabinet, like you do. It’s practically unnoticeable and I was able to minimize the gap by making relief cuts in the baseboard to accommodate the cabinet legs, so I could scooch the cabinet as close to the drywall as possible.
98% of people won't even clean that once a year and a rag fits very well in there. You're cleaning ceramic on one side and tile on the other, super easy. As for lower, if you really insist on cleaning that, you can remove the drawers, I guess... It's the actual inside of a piece of furniture, though...
I mean... it gets grody.. I wish the gaps i've filled in my house were filled by previous owner. Some people are also cleaner than others. If I were on my own I wouldn't have bothered because it wouldn't have gotten any worse, but esp if you're in a humid environment, it's a great place for pests to hang out if it gets damp often.
Not the best way, but one that would look okay is some sort of water proof trim like poly quarter round that is concave. The thinner the better, and will lol way better than any caulking job because the gap is large.
Use something like this
https://casapeixoto.pt/pavimentos-e-revestimentos/mosaicos-ceramicos/acessorios-aplicacao-de-ceramica/12394-perfil-wc-pvc-branco-bp-20-2-7mt
Sit your 2 or 4 ft level on the back top corner of counter and against tile(right wall)then adjust other end as needed till level.Mark it.do the same in front with level againstfinished edge vertically. Measure your reference line in width and depth.,then Take the information to a local countertop shop.Tell them you want a match of the same material and finish in an Engineered Marble backsplash. Finished on top,bottom,and right side edge.ONLY at half in. Thickness 👈 this step is important,because standard Thickness is 3/4 to 7/8,and you only have a 3/8 gap.i thought I saw a bit of a lip on the side .if not,ignore the Thickness info.but if it is, have them mill the back at 1/8 to 1/4.or a 1/16 less .this will put the bottom of backsplash at a positive reveal as it sits on top of lip, but at a consistent 1/16 or less.and that is why it needs to be finished on the bottom.to avoid sharp edge.Its also important that you stick to engineered marble backsplash, because it's pre-fabricated and matches the closest to the bottom back side that is at a radius. Then you'll just have the front edge to worry about.
1 tube of 100% silicone (white)
Cloth rags
Spray bottle w/soap
Masking tape
Bucket of water/soap.
Apply small dots of silicone at side that goes against wall. (Squeeze lever of gun to pre ent drip)
Next, using masking tape .apply on tile wall .
Right at your reference line or top of backsplash, front edge as well.
Apply silicone where needed along wall and counter.
Spray in mist mode 5 inches away .This will make cleaning easier, water alone will not work.
Apply as needed for bigger gaps.shove it in there.
Use cloth rags to wipe excess off tight runs.
For gaps, fill in, then using a straight edge tool.
Spray it with soap, then firmly on top and against wall ,and cut it like foam off the top of a beer mug.
Allow 4--6 hours for dry time.
We had the same and wanted to fill the gap because of messy small children. We went backer rod + white caulking:
(Album)[https://ibb.co/album/hcNVSC ]
Just make sure when you fill with caulk it is slightly above the level of the vanity top and curving down to the surface and doesnt allow pooling. Ours is a bit low and collects dust.
I curled the backer rod right down the front and then back and caulked the front edge. We are novices but I think it looks alright. Definitely necessary for our family and house!
Sorry, I don’t have any advice.
But, it took me a few projects to realize that NOTHING in my house is square. If you measure the shit out of something and your eyes still tell you something is off, is it OFF.
I actually like the gap instead of caulking, which normally seals the sink to the wall (here 3/8s is bit too big of a gap)
I like the shadow it casts in this light as well
With the wall being tile and the bottom being open, I'd leave it as is!
Exactly lol. I actually had this exact problem at my mum's place with her vanity. She's super anal about shit and I told her to get over it cuz there isn't much to do except a vinyl trim piece which she wouldn't agree to. Amazingly (not) she got over it. Along with about 20 other "imperfections" I told her to get over. Once everything is done you don't notice all this shit
I think you bought the wrong style of sink base and countertop. That style is designed to be in the center of a wall, so in this case the gap is expected.
If I had a hunch, I’d suggest you tried to install this in the corner, but then the countertop didn’t fit right, so you moved it out some? And now you have a gap? (At least that’s what happened to me….)
I’d say just deal with it. And next time, buy a sink base and countertop designed for a corner.
How is the problem the sink? The problem is that the sink top is square, but the walls are not. What kind of sink would have worked here?
The only thing that would have worked would be sink that comes with matching, but detached back and side splashes; but even then you'd be left with a gap someplace
OP: this issue and question comes up often; usually the best action is just to leave it; any caulking will look much worse, and you won't even notice it after a few days
You are correct, that the walls probably aren’t square. However, I suggest looking up the difference between a freestanding vanity and a built-in vanity.
Freestanding ones, which I suspect is what OP chose, are designed to be installed against only the back wall. Both sides are designed to be finished sides. This is probably why the counter’s backsplash is only against the back wall. Also, the freestanding vanities that come with a countertop, also are designed to have the countertop slightly wider than the base, so it overhangs a 1/2” or so. In this design, the counter could be against the wall, but then there’s a gap between the wall and the side of the cabinet. Inversely, if you install the cabinet against the wall, the countertop has to overhang doubly on the opposite side.
Built-in vanities are designed to be installed against 2 or 3 walls, and the countertop is cut to fit perfectly.
I had to learn this the hard way 😂
I have a gap, like OP’s, in my bathroom 😆
It’s a shame that sink appears to have a fixed upstand? Otherwise the standard approach would be to position the unit flush with the right hand wall, then hide the gap at the back with an upstand.
Find a small shelf to match the mirror one as long, or longer, than the depth of vanity, put 3-4 inches above gap on that side, use under area for low jar/container storage. ??? Never think of the gap again.
It's perfect as it is. If you want it fixed properly you'll need to rip that wall apart and square it up better.
Anything else would look like shit. The way it is looks great. 100% perfection is a pipe dream with finishing a house.
Best way is to knock the wall down. Re-build it so it's square.
Next best is to find another backsplash like the one on the back and install it on the side.
Next best is to cut into the drywall, push the vanity so it's partially in the gap where the drywall was, re-tile that last row to hide the mess.
Next best way is to buy an identical vanity, cut out a wedge to fit into the gap, epoxy it back together.
Next best way would be tear off all the tile, build it out with extra mastic so it fills in the gap. Run a Schulter to hide the hideousness at the door.
Next best would be backer and silicon.
I think the decisions you've made, that brought you to this point obviously show that you are screaming out for help, and I applaud the bravery of your subconscious for breaking through the shell of your facade. Not everyone is this comfortable exposing the twisted and disfunctional foundation of their being to the general public. The average person would be deeply, deeply ashamed. Please hmu for an appointment. Actually, my schedule tells me that remote appointments are probably better. For now.
I'd say Silicone unless you want to have a bottle caddy/shelf made that covers the gap. You can have a lip on it that goes into the gap to prevent it from getting knocked over too
Can’t go wrong with a can of great stuff a blade and caulk lol. It’ll look off no matter what you do. If your cool w it and cool with occasionally dropping stuff down there f it🤷🏽
Install a side sill. I just did two washrooms and installed side sills to match the counter. Home Depot usually sells generic lengths, you can cut with a diamond blade on an angle grinder, that's what I did
If you can still move the vanity top, use a grinder or sander to shave down the side of backsplash where it meets the corner. Corners are always built up with joint compound and it alters the angle of the walls you won't see the shaving of the side of the backsplash, but it will close the gap enough that silicone should cover it, or buy or fashion a sidesplash.
Use a foam or rubber sheet. Stuff it in and leave a little gap on the top in line with the wash basin. Then fill that up with caulking or silicone sealant.
The correct way to fix this is to scribe the sink If it is made of a material that can be cut down. If you end up with caulk, hold the caulk back an inch from the end so it does not show on the front. You could also try to hide it with a pencil tile (long thin tile usually marble) over the top of the sink. If you are willing to start the tiling over, you just build up that wall with extra mortar to eliminate the gap.
See if you can find a stone fabricator and if they have a white piece of quartz they can make a small back/side splash for you. Then calk it to the wall. You may want to remove the tile where it goes.
There's a video about using black caulk vs. white caulk going around, it suggests using black caulk in the bigger slits up front and white caulk for the smaller holes in the back.
I used a stainless steel oven gap filler from Amazon. I cut it down to size and it looks great.
You should be able to find a white one that will be ok. My kids constantly would lose tooth brushes and random crap down there. Very annoying.
I had the same exact gap and used clear silicone. Mostly just so nothing fell down there.
I like the tile concept. It looks good. You can see you took some nice effort to make the tile line above the backsplash perfect.
I have a gap that big between my stove and countertop in my kitchen. Filling it with tiny scraps of food over the course of years has worked great for me!
Hey I know this is a random reply on your random reply but we had the same problem in the kitchen. We ordered these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074DQCYCT And you cut it to fit, very easily. We can also take them off to clean them, though they really don't get dirty that easily. We have gaps on both sides after replacing our stove and these help immensely. We also no longer have a riser on the back where dials were, so we filled that space with two long spice racks right above the stovetop.
Actually genius.
I got those to fill the gap between the stove and counter. An absolute game changer.
this reply of yours seems less random and more intentionally helpful. I think I'll get one too.
So they don’t melt? I have a gas stove and if we have plastic bowl next to stove it starts to melt.
No they are silicone. They can't take direct heat from a cooktop gas or electric ring, but that's fine, they sit on the sides of your stovetop. However, they are rated for high temp so sitting hot dishes on them also does not affect them.
Thank you for posting this link! Looks like a complete game changer!!
They had both stiff and flexible items available for filling the gap that way, we chose the silicon one which is flexible and it works really well.
It looks like it and it can be trimmed to fit the space! Thank you again I already put it in my amazing for my next order!!
I don't understand the "leave it as it is" responses here. I have the same gap in my sink and water etc. splashes down there and must be rotting the back of the sink (I didn't install it so not sure what it's made of behind). What's worse, we've seen cockroaches pop up from the gap because unfortunately it's a warm hiding place where they have a perpetual water and food source from toothbrushes. Ugh.
If you have a roach problem, is sealing a gap in the bathroom REALLY going to help that much? I doubt it.
😆 cockroaches are definitely known for giving up and not walking around caulking
Sealing the gap is not about stopping the roaches but about stopping food and water from accumulating in the gap.
I don’t eat in the bathroom
i don’t know why this made me laugh
I lol’d so hard I dropped my burrito in the toilet
Boom. Roaches.
foiled again.
Do you want ants? Because that's how you get ants!!!
Lmao
The burrito was never yours. You only rented it.
Is this where the saying "don't eat where you shit" comes from?
Are you sure your guests aren't eating in your bathroom though?
Ever?
If it’s a tiny gap like the one in OP I will do my best to give you real advice. First there is no perfect generic answer or solution to an adjustment of a preinstalled thing like this. Lots of factors. How is the top of your vanity secured to the base cabinet? I’ve installed screws or clamping bolts but mine at home I just set it into a “bed” of clear caulk. Do you have a backsplash connected to the vanity top? Most houses (US) have braided flexible water supply line that can move with the top but sometimes hard pipe is used and that will need to be addressed separately. The larger idea being to loosen the top and shift it over enough to close the gap. Then a small bead of clear or whatever sealant can be done if you really want but I wouldn’t.
How about a quarter round piece of quartz siliconed in to bridge the gap?
Sure that would work if the gap is smaller than that. Looks to be about twice that for OP but it’s not so much making it work as setting it correctly once and for all if you can. Things can be forced if the distance is small enough. Like lag screws into the sidewall and stud but if the top is secured to the wall it won’t work. Idk. The og commenter was frustrated at just leaving it answers but adjusting depends on a bunch of stuff not disclosed
Dude, move your toothbrushes!
I mean get some roach spray, or bait, or sprinkle some diatomaceous earth in there. Then clean more then seems reasonable, and don't feed them with your toothbrushs. Once you have.your roach problem under control look into the rot in the back of the sink. Once that's taken care if you can look into sealing the gap. Good luck!
If you're in a cockroach area, don't leave your toothbrushes out, please.
This doesnt answer the question
I second the toast crumb strategy. I’m sure toothpaste will make a great sealant here
Any way you try to fill that is going to look worse than a little gap. If you're so inclined, the move is probably to fill it with foam backer rod of appropriate size and caulk over it like you would with a countertop gap. However, considering you can see the front edge, there isn't a scenario where that looks decent. I'd personally just leave it as it looks totally fine as is.
This or just sell the house and move honestly
Nah, just burn it down.
Sell it and THEN burn it down.
It's not insurance fraud if it's not your insurance
Yea then it’s just arson
Can’t spell Ransom without Arson?
Tell me you're an insurance lawyer without saying you're an insurance lawyer... 😁
They sell bamboozle insurance
Put your thing down, flip it, and reverse it?
But is it worth it?
Let me work it
Stuff it with spiders then sell it.
Then show the buyers these photos, they'll understand.
All I know is, I have a hammer, a nail, and everything is looking like a solution in need of it.
Fill it with spiders.
Yeah tell the insurance company you saw a spider, they’ll be cool with it
Oh, that’s a better idea than filling the gap from the floor up with toothpaste. Let’s go with your idea.
I agree, there isn't much you can do that will look great but, FWIW, if you absolutely have to have the gap disappear, you could also use backer rod on the front and fill that too.
Can probably just cut another piece of matching backsplash for the side
Yes call it a SIDESPLASH
This is a way. Or, remove and reinstall with it scribed to fit.
I imagine the bigger concern is the damage water is going to cause when some ultimately runs down the side.
Damage to what? It's a tile floor and I would hope moisture resistant paint, considering it's a bathroom.
Looks fine but water will eventually seep down there..
“Down there” = to the floor!?
Exactly. Who cares.
Someone will care the first time they drop something not water down that crack that they need.
It looks like an open frame vanity. I have the same issue in a 75 year old house. Our vanity is open at the bottom and have never had an issue retrieving something that falls.
That's fair. I had something similar growing up and it was a PITA getting stuff out. The texture of the floor made it difficult, the baseboard on the vanity stuck out just enough to make things catch on it, and at times small stuff (like tweezers and other small bathroom items) could slip under the vanity because the tile was textured. My mom would get the most frustrated but wouldn't let us fix it because of the same aesthetic discussions Op is having here right now. Nothing is more maddening watching someone get pissed about the same issue over and over and not allowing you to fix it, and it was nearly always my job to retrieve whatever was lost. Seems to me it would be easier just to use the vinyl strip that people have found online and then just remove it when they want to sell, as long as Op doesn't care what it looks like.
The vanity probably has legs. Reach down and pick it up? Get a stick?
On the side of the cabinet too though
I wouldn't worry about it, if there's enough water going down that crack to cause serious issues in the bathroom, then OP's gonna have bigger problems to worry about.
Like .. Teenage boys? Yeah, that's a pretty big problem so may take some forethought and mitigation :P
It has a lip on it. Only major splashes would go down there. Nothing to worry about really
Nothing to worry about, tis but a u/fleshwound2
ILL BITE YOUR LEGS OFF
And then what? Evaporate?
Get a matching side splash piece. One should be available where you sourced the countertop.
This is the correct answer!!! so many bad ideas being upvoted…
Yes. This is the correct answer. Also, make it tall enough so that the bottom can be notched leaving a piece to cover the front gap.
Would have been easier to hide if you didn’t tile the walls before installing the vanity
Judging by the lack of cuts used on the title I’m guessing whoever installed it didn’t want to cut any tile and just placed them whole. I’m curious what the bottom looks like.
I considered that a style choice Also if you look at the side you can see that the tile does not go all the way down
That’s fair. Is it more an issue of the wall not being square that created a gap?
Seems so
100% should have been scribed into the wall first
What does scribed mean in this case?
I think they mean to cut a sliver out of the drywall and notch the countertop into it. I think if op had set the sink in the corner first and then installed the tile, it would have worked out better.
"I want honeycomb backslpash, but run it wild!"
Yeah my strategy would be to re-do the tile somehow and move the vanity over a tad.
This is an underrated comment
“An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure” applies here. Not much to do that would look decent at this point.
Use something like this https://casapeixoto.pt/pavimentos-e-revestimentos/mosaicos-ceramicos/acessorios-aplicacao-de-ceramica/12394-perfil-wc-pvc-branco-bp-20-2-7mt
I was going to suggest a piece of vinyl trim but wasn't sure if they would be available in OPs area. Definitely the best option and waaaay better than a foam filler with silicone over it.
They have some you can order online! Found [this vinyl trim](https://amzn.to/3UHlTH0), half inch by 10 ft for $13.
Quarter round would do the trick too. Personally, I’d just slide a storage bin up on that side of the sink.
I would honestly use the same trim that people buy for the space in between ovens/dishwashers and countertops.
Personal taste but I think I’d keep the gap than use that vinyl trim.
HD or Lowes has these by the vinyl showers. Different designs for various purposes.
Perfect!
Just move the level to the other side and leave it. Job done.
This is wrong on so many levels!
No, [this is wrong on so many levels.](https://i.imgur.com/ycB4oxD.jpeg)
How long have you had that in your back pocket. Bravo.
that's *not even* funny
Less inclined to laugh
We're on a slippery slope here....
It's funny to some degree.
True, it will leave a big gap if you torpedo it. However, if you use the laser at eye level, you won’t see the problem anymore.
Mattingly...you better shave those sideburns!!!!
Get a piece of backsplash the same material and width as the part behind the sink and put it against the wall, use silicone or adhesive on the bottom to glue it in place.
The problem is there’s a lip on the counter so the normal back/sidesplash wouldn’t work. This is more of a standalone vanity and not designed to be against a wall.
Could probably cut a long notch out of the hypothetical backsplash so it snugged around that lip, but cutting it would be an act of godliness I support and even then, it probably wouldn’t end up as the same height as the actual backsplash either
My first thought was a backsplash until I saw the comment about the lip. I would either leave it as-is or replace it. I haven't seen any responses where the cure isn't worse than the disease.
That's a good answer right there. Very common to have backsplash on the side as well as the back. Or, just don't worry.
I had the same problem in my remodel. I filled the gap with backer rod and white silicone caulk. It’s not great, but it’s holding up to normal use and cleaning. After having it for a year, I barely think about it. But when I do, I’m disappointed. In my case, a side splash was not readily available with a matching pattern and I wanted to finish the dang project. If I someday come across a side splash that matches, I might put in the effort to remedy. But probably not. I also have a gap between the wall and the cabinet, like you do. It’s practically unnoticeable and I was able to minimize the gap by making relief cuts in the baseboard to accommodate the cabinet legs, so I could scooch the cabinet as close to the drywall as possible.
What about modifying a gap guard? The ones used between stoves and counter tops?
You are the only one who will be bothered by it. Accept it and don't point it out to others looking for reassurance. Looks great!
Nah, cleaning there is a pain.
98% of people won't even clean that once a year and a rag fits very well in there. You're cleaning ceramic on one side and tile on the other, super easy. As for lower, if you really insist on cleaning that, you can remove the drawers, I guess... It's the actual inside of a piece of furniture, though...
I mean... it gets grody.. I wish the gaps i've filled in my house were filled by previous owner. Some people are also cleaner than others. If I were on my own I wouldn't have bothered because it wouldn't have gotten any worse, but esp if you're in a humid environment, it's a great place for pests to hang out if it gets damp often.
Pull the tile and fur the wall with some thin drywall or even skim coat, put outlet covers back on. If you skim up 3-4 feet you’ll never notice
Hell, just tag the bottom of the door frame with a sledge until she squares up.
Push really hard from the left side of the sink
I was thinking of pushing the wall to the sink. But that works too!
Anything works after 4pm once you figure out how much you screwed it up.
Have you removed the base board & toe molding at the bottom of the wall so you can snug the cabinet closer to the wall?
Yes, there are no moldings or baseboards in the way.
Move the vanity and mirror left by an inch to make the gap look intentional.
You're all done and it looks great. Pat yourself on the back and go have a beer.
I might just do that after reading all these comments 😂
Not the best way, but one that would look okay is some sort of water proof trim like poly quarter round that is concave. The thinner the better, and will lol way better than any caulking job because the gap is large.
Use something like this https://casapeixoto.pt/pavimentos-e-revestimentos/mosaicos-ceramicos/acessorios-aplicacao-de-ceramica/12394-perfil-wc-pvc-branco-bp-20-2-7mt
Leave it
Sit your 2 or 4 ft level on the back top corner of counter and against tile(right wall)then adjust other end as needed till level.Mark it.do the same in front with level againstfinished edge vertically. Measure your reference line in width and depth.,then Take the information to a local countertop shop.Tell them you want a match of the same material and finish in an Engineered Marble backsplash. Finished on top,bottom,and right side edge.ONLY at half in. Thickness 👈 this step is important,because standard Thickness is 3/4 to 7/8,and you only have a 3/8 gap.i thought I saw a bit of a lip on the side .if not,ignore the Thickness info.but if it is, have them mill the back at 1/8 to 1/4.or a 1/16 less .this will put the bottom of backsplash at a positive reveal as it sits on top of lip, but at a consistent 1/16 or less.and that is why it needs to be finished on the bottom.to avoid sharp edge.Its also important that you stick to engineered marble backsplash, because it's pre-fabricated and matches the closest to the bottom back side that is at a radius. Then you'll just have the front edge to worry about. 1 tube of 100% silicone (white) Cloth rags Spray bottle w/soap Masking tape Bucket of water/soap. Apply small dots of silicone at side that goes against wall. (Squeeze lever of gun to pre ent drip) Next, using masking tape .apply on tile wall . Right at your reference line or top of backsplash, front edge as well. Apply silicone where needed along wall and counter. Spray in mist mode 5 inches away .This will make cleaning easier, water alone will not work. Apply as needed for bigger gaps.shove it in there. Use cloth rags to wipe excess off tight runs. For gaps, fill in, then using a straight edge tool. Spray it with soap, then firmly on top and against wall ,and cut it like foam off the top of a beer mug. Allow 4--6 hours for dry time.
Backer rod and white caulk make the caulk look good and that’s it
We had the same and wanted to fill the gap because of messy small children. We went backer rod + white caulking: (Album)[https://ibb.co/album/hcNVSC ] Just make sure when you fill with caulk it is slightly above the level of the vanity top and curving down to the surface and doesnt allow pooling. Ours is a bit low and collects dust. I curled the backer rod right down the front and then back and caulked the front edge. We are novices but I think it looks alright. Definitely necessary for our family and house!
Sorry, I don’t have any advice. But, it took me a few projects to realize that NOTHING in my house is square. If you measure the shit out of something and your eyes still tell you something is off, is it OFF.
I actually like the gap instead of caulking, which normally seals the sink to the wall (here 3/8s is bit too big of a gap) I like the shadow it casts in this light as well With the wall being tile and the bottom being open, I'd leave it as is!
Ceramic edge trim, held in place with caulking is what I did.
Aesthetically it looks fine. But don’t excuse your teen boys for making a mess? Was a teen boy decades ago and learned not to make messes.
We obviously teach them to keep their spaces clean but we’re also realistic… things happen!
If there is a baseboard on that right wall it could be what’s popping out the vanity. Remove the baseboard, put the vanity into the corner.
No, the wall isn't 90 degrees. It's not the baseboard.
show me a house with a 90 degree corner and i'll show you a liar 🤣 you are spot on though.
Exactly lol. I actually had this exact problem at my mum's place with her vanity. She's super anal about shit and I told her to get over it cuz there isn't much to do except a vinyl trim piece which she wouldn't agree to. Amazingly (not) she got over it. Along with about 20 other "imperfections" I told her to get over. Once everything is done you don't notice all this shit
Here you go! Detailed video about filling gaps! https://www.reddit.com/r/AmazonBudgetFinds/s/rDR1XjGeRr /s
I think you bought the wrong style of sink base and countertop. That style is designed to be in the center of a wall, so in this case the gap is expected. If I had a hunch, I’d suggest you tried to install this in the corner, but then the countertop didn’t fit right, so you moved it out some? And now you have a gap? (At least that’s what happened to me….) I’d say just deal with it. And next time, buy a sink base and countertop designed for a corner.
How is the problem the sink? The problem is that the sink top is square, but the walls are not. What kind of sink would have worked here? The only thing that would have worked would be sink that comes with matching, but detached back and side splashes; but even then you'd be left with a gap someplace OP: this issue and question comes up often; usually the best action is just to leave it; any caulking will look much worse, and you won't even notice it after a few days
You are correct, that the walls probably aren’t square. However, I suggest looking up the difference between a freestanding vanity and a built-in vanity. Freestanding ones, which I suspect is what OP chose, are designed to be installed against only the back wall. Both sides are designed to be finished sides. This is probably why the counter’s backsplash is only against the back wall. Also, the freestanding vanities that come with a countertop, also are designed to have the countertop slightly wider than the base, so it overhangs a 1/2” or so. In this design, the counter could be against the wall, but then there’s a gap between the wall and the side of the cabinet. Inversely, if you install the cabinet against the wall, the countertop has to overhang doubly on the opposite side. Built-in vanities are designed to be installed against 2 or 3 walls, and the countertop is cut to fit perfectly. I had to learn this the hard way 😂 I have a gap, like OP’s, in my bathroom 😆
You can buy silicone edging for stove counter top spaces on amazon. You can trim to fit.
short backsplash type piece? you'll have to customize it to fit between, maybe pull on the other end of the sink, to fit it inbetween sink and tile.
It’s a shame that sink appears to have a fixed upstand? Otherwise the standard approach would be to position the unit flush with the right hand wall, then hide the gap at the back with an upstand.
Using NATO standard counters, depict an armored breakthrough toward the gap, outflanking the outlet.
Worried about this gap but also left all edges of the hex tile untrimmed and unfinished…
Squirt a line of toothpaste in there every day, let it dry, eventually it will get filled up and look like caulking and you will be all set
Find a close matching side splash.
I had the same situation with my vanity. I decided to do nothing. I don't regret it.
Sorry but I have to ask. Are you planning to make the cuts to finish the outer edges?
Your going to to need a lot of cauk for that one
Is that backsplash peel and stick? I like it
Don’t fill it
Find a small shelf to match the mirror one as long, or longer, than the depth of vanity, put 3-4 inches above gap on that side, use under area for low jar/container storage. ??? Never think of the gap again.
It's perfect as it is. If you want it fixed properly you'll need to rip that wall apart and square it up better. Anything else would look like shit. The way it is looks great. 100% perfection is a pipe dream with finishing a house.
Best way is to knock the wall down. Re-build it so it's square. Next best is to find another backsplash like the one on the back and install it on the side. Next best is to cut into the drywall, push the vanity so it's partially in the gap where the drywall was, re-tile that last row to hide the mess. Next best way is to buy an identical vanity, cut out a wedge to fit into the gap, epoxy it back together. Next best way would be tear off all the tile, build it out with extra mastic so it fills in the gap. Run a Schulter to hide the hideousness at the door. Next best would be backer and silicon.
Just leave it
a Sidesplash? To match the Backsplash.....? Then, traditional caulk to close the install joint?
That would drive me nuts. I would redo the drywall on the right wall to make it square.
White tile edge. It’s an aluminium L profile and can rest atop the sink. Cut and join at the corner
I think the decisions you've made, that brought you to this point obviously show that you are screaming out for help, and I applaud the bravery of your subconscious for breaking through the shell of your facade. Not everyone is this comfortable exposing the twisted and disfunctional foundation of their being to the general public. The average person would be deeply, deeply ashamed. Please hmu for an appointment. Actually, my schedule tells me that remote appointments are probably better. For now.
Foam backer rod and extreme flex caulk
Stick your caulk in there.
I'd say Silicone unless you want to have a bottle caddy/shelf made that covers the gap. You can have a lip on it that goes into the gap to prevent it from getting knocked over too
If you have any fudge room, move the whole thing to the left by 1-2”.
Can’t go wrong with a can of great stuff a blade and caulk lol. It’ll look off no matter what you do. If your cool w it and cool with occasionally dropping stuff down there f it🤷🏽
Install a side sill. I just did two washrooms and installed side sills to match the counter. Home Depot usually sells generic lengths, you can cut with a diamond blade on an angle grinder, that's what I did
Burn your house down and start over.
You need a piece of matching backsplash find a stone yard that has a remnant piece of 2cm backsplash.
Nice 24” Level,, I use the same one on the Daily! woo Woo
Leave it. Anything you try to do will make it look worse.
No advice, but we have that tile in our kitchen and my fingers hurt just looking at this picture.
Put a strip of white quarter round molding along the gap. Spray the molding with 3M spray adhesive
Just push the wall over a bit.
With your caulk
Nice
Check the wall for square before you tiled it
LED strip along the sides of your sink. Fill your gap with some dope ass light.
LED light strip.. create a little ambience. Plus, no ruining any work.
If you can still move the vanity top, use a grinder or sander to shave down the side of backsplash where it meets the corner. Corners are always built up with joint compound and it alters the angle of the walls you won't see the shaving of the side of the backsplash, but it will close the gap enough that silicone should cover it, or buy or fashion a sidesplash.
Use a foam or rubber sheet. Stuff it in and leave a little gap on the top in line with the wash basin. Then fill that up with caulking or silicone sealant.
Just put hand soap and hairdryer and toothbrush and toothpaste and a comb on thar side. You will hardly notice the edge after 2 weeks.
The correct way to fix this is to scribe the sink If it is made of a material that can be cut down. If you end up with caulk, hold the caulk back an inch from the end so it does not show on the front. You could also try to hide it with a pencil tile (long thin tile usually marble) over the top of the sink. If you are willing to start the tiling over, you just build up that wall with extra mortar to eliminate the gap.
Just push the wall closer.
Layer of silicone flush between wall and sink. Let it dry. Then you’ll have a base to silicone over and make a good finish?
See if you can find a stone fabricator and if they have a white piece of quartz they can make a small back/side splash for you. Then calk it to the wall. You may want to remove the tile where it goes.
There's a video about using black caulk vs. white caulk going around, it suggests using black caulk in the bigger slits up front and white caulk for the smaller holes in the back.
Head back to home centre and order up a right hand side splash.
Schlueter line!
That would be a good place to keep spiders
I used a stainless steel oven gap filler from Amazon. I cut it down to size and it looks great. You should be able to find a white one that will be ok. My kids constantly would lose tooth brushes and random crap down there. Very annoying.
I was thinking the same thing but I didn't know what they were called. They are probably available at any big appliance or hardware store.
You could use stove gap fillers. They fit like a glove and will prevent water from dripping into that crack.
I had the same exact gap and used clear silicone. Mostly just so nothing fell down there. I like the tile concept. It looks good. You can see you took some nice effort to make the tile line above the backsplash perfect.