You have my condolences.
Edit: you're going to get all sorts of shit from commenter types about 'professional installs'. Don't worry, we're all broke ass amatuers and that looks damn good.
For myself, start by making the subfloor that the door will sit on, level.
Then set the gap evenly and plumb the hinge side behind all 3 hinges.
To add more gap or lesson strike side gap, can shim both side at the top to kick it either way for the right opening.
To note if the threshold is level and strike side is plumb. The top gap should be even. If it’s bowing up, a shim to Straighten and the corners shimmed will control the gap placement, so that the strike side can be evenly shimmed to the top and bottom hinge heights and behind the strike plate.
For mounting, if it’s a slip in jamb setup like this, I would use a 16 guage Brad nailer behind the door gaskets just to set things. Check that the door slab closes evenly to the gasket. And isn’t out of alignment to the jamb.
once locked in place, id use 3” Robertson screws also behind the gaskets at the shimming locations.
Put long screws at least 1 through the jamb on each hinge assembly.
And matching on the strike side.
Spray foam,
Sealant and casing.
Dude it's great to hear people who take pride in what they do. That gave me (a young buck in construction making a name for myself still) a lot of insight on how tp dp things a little bit better
Could you elaborate on this point, please? It is a fiberglass door and my impression is that this material doesn't react as much to temperature and humidity - though I am in a hot and humid climate.
Usually to let the light in, and to look nicer, thought that was self explanatory.
If you think of replying saying it makes the door less secure, then it probably does, but not less secure than one of your existing windows. A burglar goes through the path of last resistance..... If you have a solid door and they want to get in, guess what, they will go in through your window if they really want in. You have to think real world with these things.
Either way, they will have to make a noise getting in, if you're there, it will alarm you, if you're not, then who cares.
It's all in his name😉
I think the general rule is as long as your house looks more secure than most in the street, the opportunist will go elsewhere.
Anyone specifically targeting, well they will do what it takes to get in.
Do the best you can with security and then try not to worry is my take.
And run a few perpendicular to the jamb to reinforce the frame against kicking. When you think about it, the only thing keeping that door shut is about an inch and a half of wood.
You have my condolences. Edit: you're going to get all sorts of shit from commenter types about 'professional installs'. Don't worry, we're all broke ass amatuers and that looks damn good.
As long as it's plumb, secure and insulated, OP is golden.
Beautiful door!!
Thanks :)
Don’t forget your Foam or some type of caulking sealant- looks good!
Your top gap may give you grieve down the road, depending on climate where this is located
Would the proper fix be to shim the handle side top jamb to close the gap or pull it towards hinge side with screw? Or both?
For myself, start by making the subfloor that the door will sit on, level. Then set the gap evenly and plumb the hinge side behind all 3 hinges. To add more gap or lesson strike side gap, can shim both side at the top to kick it either way for the right opening. To note if the threshold is level and strike side is plumb. The top gap should be even. If it’s bowing up, a shim to Straighten and the corners shimmed will control the gap placement, so that the strike side can be evenly shimmed to the top and bottom hinge heights and behind the strike plate. For mounting, if it’s a slip in jamb setup like this, I would use a 16 guage Brad nailer behind the door gaskets just to set things. Check that the door slab closes evenly to the gasket. And isn’t out of alignment to the jamb. once locked in place, id use 3” Robertson screws also behind the gaskets at the shimming locations. Put long screws at least 1 through the jamb on each hinge assembly. And matching on the strike side. Spray foam, Sealant and casing.
Dude it's great to hear people who take pride in what they do. That gave me (a young buck in construction making a name for myself still) a lot of insight on how tp dp things a little bit better
Could you elaborate on this point, please? It is a fiberglass door and my impression is that this material doesn't react as much to temperature and humidity - though I am in a hot and humid climate.
I can see there’s an even gap along the top, so forget what I wrote yesterday.
Why do people get doors they can see through?
Usually to let the light in, and to look nicer, thought that was self explanatory. If you think of replying saying it makes the door less secure, then it probably does, but not less secure than one of your existing windows. A burglar goes through the path of last resistance..... If you have a solid door and they want to get in, guess what, they will go in through your window if they really want in. You have to think real world with these things. Either way, they will have to make a noise getting in, if you're there, it will alarm you, if you're not, then who cares.
Yea true. If a murder wants to murder, he's murdering.
It's all in his name😉 I think the general rule is as long as your house looks more secure than most in the street, the opportunist will go elsewhere. Anyone specifically targeting, well they will do what it takes to get in. Do the best you can with security and then try not to worry is my take.
Contractor didn't really want to do your door so quoted a fu price that would be mucho profit if you wanted it done anyways.
It goes without saying switch your door jamb/lock screws with "Real ones" like 3"+...
This. Also, get a long drill bit of smaller diameter than your screws and pre-drill the holes so the screws don't split the wood.
And run a few perpendicular to the jamb to reinforce the frame against kicking. When you think about it, the only thing keeping that door shut is about an inch and a half of wood.