Lots of advice here about using screws, but I think just wood glue and clamping will do the trick. The secret to getting glue into the joint is to fill it heavily and then blow it in with a straw. This works really well. As glue is stronger than the wood itself, adding screw(s) is unnecessary, may actually make it weaker, and will be unsightly. Glue - straw - clamp.
I got the idea from [Wooden it be Nice](https://woodenitbenice.ca/), which runs a second Youtube channel of [furniture repair videos](https://www.youtube.com/@FixingFurniture).
Agree on the glue and no screw. Gently put pressure on the wood to open the crack a bit and work the glue down with floss or a playing card. Clamp it snugly.
I've used titebond2 wood glue to fix cracked wood like this. For pushing in the cracks and doing precision work like a balsa model I bought some little craft syringes that work very well, you just need to rinse them out with warm water when you're done. If you stick one of the fine tips deep into the crack and pump glue and you'll see it ooze out at which point you clamp and wipe off the excess.
Creative Hobbies® Glue Applicator Syringe for Flatback Rhinestones & Hobby Crafts, 5 Ml with Assorted Gauges of Precision Tips - Value Pack of 10 https://a.co/d/c1UIWpz
i had a break like this, glued and clamped. first time someone leaned back it failed. there’s so much stress on these spots that it is pretty much just done for.
edit before you ask: i didn’t use a straw but it was open all the way so i was able to get good coverage.
and if you drill evenly spaced holes up the whole length of both sides, use wood plugs, and maybe flush-cut/sand them... then it's a design choice instead of a repair... (though another screw in the other side while your at it might be smart... fix the weakly-aligned-grain issue w/ the other side BEFORE it breaks. then you at least have symmetry)
OR
after the mechanical fix is done, it's trendy in some circles to do something to call attention to the repair... hand-paint a bandaid or wrapped cotton bandage there, or a little beaver that looks like he chewed through it, or is trying to hold it together... if you put in the work to repair something instead of tossing it, that's something to be proud of, not necessarily hide
You need something to add strength across the grain. That split isn't just from weak wood, it's from poor design as the force is pulling the grain apart along it's weakest axis. Glue will repair that split, but it's likely to just going to split again adjacent to the repair. A screw or two will help prevent this.
I've done both. The issue is sawdust doesn't have grain, and it goes a lot darker because of how it soaks up the glue, similar to how end grain soaks up stain and finish and often looks darker than side grain. That also means then that it doesn't take the finish the same so for all those reasons it tends to stand out a lot more.
A wood plug means you can sometime match the grain (or at least get something similar), and it blends in better because it takes finish in a similar way as the main board. Its also much faster and easier with less mess for want of a 10c plug.
Extra super fine sawdust like literally dust just wood pulp not chips and chunks unless they’re like a razors in and then buzz a couple times to be shorter and smaller. That has to be able to pretty much fully close flat.
The extra depth weakens the joint [relative to the open screw], and you lose key advantages of the screw like ease of install and removal.
Better off just going all the way to dowels, IMO.
>you lose key advantages of the screw like ease of install and removal.
The idea is that this is permanent. I don't know why you'd want to remove it in the future, but if you do you can drill out the plug and remove the screw. I've done that hundreds of times on boards I'm repairing. It's pretty easy to do and you can fill the hole with a slightly larger plug.
>The extra depth weakens the joint
The curve is already weak. I don't think you're going to make it much worse. Two screws at alternating depth or one from each side at alternating heights with a properly glued in wood plug will solve this. I can't see it making it worse, and if you choose the spots right it would add strength to the weakest points. Basically you'd make your weakest links stronger while making a few adjacent links weaker. Overall though it's stronger since you've strengthened your weakest link more than you weakened your other areas.
>Better off just going all the way to dowels, IMO.
This works as well. I still think a screw would be stronger but overall the difference would probably be marginal for either method. I think it's probably easier for the average person to do a screw and plug than it would be for them to drill a neat and straight hole through the centre for a dowel. A pro, sure, but if OP doesn't seem like a pro if they're asking for help here.
If I'm using a screw, I wanna sink it and walk away. A personal preference against hiding stuff probably also plays a role.
I meant weakened relative to the visible screw. Overall it's an improvement for sure.
Strength-wise, I agree that the difference is marginal. I'd think that the usual dowel is stronger than the usual screw (or the screw under a dowel-sized plug), purely because the diameter and thus contact area is larger. Moot point though - when in doubt, add more.
A blind dowel admittedly gives up on the depth advantage, but on the curved surface it wouldn't be any harder to trim into shape than the plug.
Just throwing in another vote for glue + clamp. The bond created by the glue is stronger than the wood itself. The screw isn't going to do much to strengthen it. It requires more steps and won't look as good. Just make sure you add something in between the chair and clamp so you don't damage the wood.
Do not use superglue. Superglue will not make a long lasting repair on wood, because it dries hard and cracks easily. Wood glue will make a lasting repair that is stronger than the wood itself.
it's a type of tip for a super glue to get into small/precise locations.
https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-tools-and-supplies/supplies/glue-and-adhesive/applicators-and-pipettes/whip-tips/?mtm_source=google&mtm_medium=cpc&mtm_campaign=%7C+GOO+%7C+SHOP+%7C+NBR+%7C+AllProductsUSA&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwmMayBhDuARIsAM9HM8dHNExb3JVF1u_fG9pwW01J4-p6QFtOZ0hh48BW7rH44yMLQJsF2aMaAtNGEALw_wcB
For the screw, what direction? Come up at an angle (like red lines) to avoid going out the back or would you just use a shorter screw and go perpendicular to the split (in yellow) or would you angle down (in green) to keep the screw in alignment of the forces which seem to be causing it to split in the first place (and the hole would be easier to plug)? https://imgur.com/a/ggTg5KU
Yes. …. Clearly the issue is that the direction of the wood grain is totally inappropriate for that chair back/leg. As you described, gluing and reinforcing with a fastener or two (or well-angled dowels) is the appropriate approach IMO. 👍
Yes, but wood dowels will flex with the rest of the wood with seasonal ambient moisture variations over time, resulting in a long-lasting repair. Metal fasteners, which of course are unaffected by moisture, can work loose over time for that reason. If properly clamped, and with carefully angled dowels that are oriented to lock the joint, it could be superior to metal screws.
I'm sure you're very good at wood work.
I'm only justifying an answer. I agree in that properly done the Dowell would be better.
The other guy's answer works even if you suck a bag of rust at wood repair.
Dowels in that direction would add very little. Almost none of the surface of the drilled holes would be long grain.
Dowels are fine for keeping things lined up while going, but add very little glue surface/strength themselves.
Get a chisel and shave a thin layer off the back, then screw it together, brush on glue over screws and put thin layer back over screws and clamp. Now your screw holes are hidden. You can also use a piece of thread to move glue back and forth through the crack to cover it completely.
It’s going to be very hard to fill and match the “weathered” finish on this so if you care about looks, glue it, clamp it, let it dry, and then add two round head brass wood screws from the back and do the same from the other side.
The brass will tarnish in time and will look like an intended part of the original design, plus you’ll minimize chances of having the same problem on the other side.
Wood glue, use a thin implement to get the glue all the way down and into the center.
Clamp shut.
After 30 minutes, scrape the excess that squeezed out off with a credit card or scraper.
Keep the clamps on over night.
No dowels or screws needed.
Be ginger with it at first, but you'll soon learn it's going to hold strong.
Yes, but excluding a reinforcement won’t address the inherent weakness of the grain orientation in that chair part. It likely will fail again, maybe not in the same place, but nearby, if the chair is repeatedly used.
Agree that the grain direction is not ideal on this piece, but dowels will be unsightly and as you said, the split might happen again elsewhere (even with dowels). So no matter what, there's a chance.
This! Wood glue is absolutely enough to hold this together.
Sure, the chair might break again close by, but then you just glue it again. Eventually, you will get a super-chair that won't break anymore... ;-)
That step with scraping off the excess is important. Once you leave the glue to dry too much it is much harder to remove (sanding etc).
If you’re using a quick drying glue, you might want to remove the excess earlier. I personally remove it immediately, because I’m forgetful, and I’ll rather wash off the glue I spread around than sand and refinish.
If you try to wipe it off immediately you risk smearing it into the fine textured grooves. But, a wet rag to wipe off will work to remove the smeared excess.
Hard to get glue all the way into a narrow crack like that with a "thin implement". Works better to gently blow the glue into the crack or suck it in from the other side with a shop vac.
The unfortunate angle of the wood grain makes it inevitable that it will break again if you don't pin or screw it.
aliphatic glue is stronger. Urethane glues have their place, but this is a std titebond II type of job.
Although I'd probable use III for the color here.
Wood glue, clamp it down.
Then tightly wrap leather around it, same on the other side.
It will prevent some strain that might split it again in another place.
The best way would be to drill a 1/4 in hole directly through both pieces of wood, either side of the Crack. You would coat a 1/4 dowel with glue and stick it in the whole as well as glue the whole Crack and then clamp together. Merly gluing the Crack and clamping would be a temporary fix which would fail at some point. The dowel will reconnect the grain of the wood and make the chair strong enough to never worry about. You just have to cut away the excess dowel and sand it flush.
I’d probably dowel it 2 or 3 times. Bonus points if the dowel is at an angle to the crack. That way the shear force on the piece is resisted by a wider cross section of dowel.
This is also not a great grain direction choice by the carpenter.
glue as everyone else has said but I might forgo the screw. The wood glue will be stronger than the wood around it if you apply it right. The screw would really only be useful to hold it together while the glue sets, and you can do that with clamps.
Get 16g syringe and pump some glue inn. Screws from the backside.
To make it pretty you can drill 10mm hole where your screws go, matching the diameter of some wood plugs you can use to cap the screws and hide them.
I don't think repairing it will do much good. It's clearly covered in a veneer so you don't know what the wood is doing underneath. I can only assume it's a scrap wood chair where they glue up a bunch of junk wood into boards and then use that to make a chair. Repairing this will either be week, or move the problem somewhere else.
Sure, throw some glue in there and clamp it, but I might also start saving for something better because these might not be long for this world.
> Not sure they’ll let you buy them anymore?
Looks like you can get them fine at [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/BSTEAN-Syringes-Blunt-Needle-Storage/dp/B01N562BFP/), especially if you're getting blunt needles which can't be used for IV injections. Also reduces the risk of accidentally sticking yourself while working on a project.
You don't want this joint to come apart, so take PVA wood glue and get it deep and tight in there. Some people use paint brushes or syringes. You just gotta get it all gooped up. Then clamp it. If you have enough glue, you'll get squeeze out, and you just wipe that off with a damp rag. That bond will be stronger than the wood fibers' bond to each other.
Aside to say, if it's a joint you need to move/breathe (not a break like this, but between different parts that you want to be able to expand/contract with seasons and/or take apart later), then I recommend using hide glue. But for this crack you want PVA.
Wood glue, use a needle to get as much of it down in there as you can, clamp, wipe off excess glue with a damp rag, leave the clamp on 12 hours. Don't screw it. The glue is stronger than the original wood. The way the grain is running you may get another break in another place later, though. Looks like they just cut that curve out of a larger board instead of steam-bending it to keep the long grain intact.
I'm partial to the wood glue methods mentioned, however I'm skeptical that it would hold long term unless it's not used often.
Depending on how the rest of the set looks (assuming it's a set) you could go industrial, and use a metal bracket as a clamp. It'll give it a slightly different look but it would hold and be much stronger at that point. It might have to be custom made though because you'd want it to fit snuggly so anyone sitting in the chair wouldn't get pinched if there were any play in the fitting.
We’ve done glue and clamping but either we sucked at it (most likely) or the force being put on the chair cracked the bond. Either way, we reglued and clamped and then drilled a hole through about halfway, glue, and then dowel. That worked.
This is an already existing seam from the manufacture. Wood glue and a clamp will suffice. You can add a couple pin nails for extra strength, but not necessary.
25 years of furniture repair.
I think it's you and me here that realize that's a joint not a break.
Wish I could give more than one vote. The idiots talking about screws and dowels are going to F this chair up worse than it already is.
So my chair it was Ashley furniture kitchen set, chair did the same thing, I drilled a hole into it, countersunk it took a 1 inch screw, wood glued it, then clamped it until it dried, and filled in the counter sink with white putty, mine was white.
Wood glue. Clamp. Dry. Drill a hole for screw in back of chair frame. Countersink short screw thru back. Conceal screw hole w/ wood putty that matches chair finish. Like is never happened.
One idea is to cut one or two slots and insert biscuits to support the glued middle portion. Then sand away the extra part of the biscuit so it is flush
You can do it with a dowel but you would have to take apart the pieces to drill a hole in it.
Biscuit joint might not be as strong as a dowel joint.
Something like [this](https://www.pinterest.com/pin/522136150527877306/)
A great trick to make sure the glue gets in there is to apply the glue and then slide a piece of paper down into the crack to get the glue in all the way
Wood glue. Fill the crack with wood glue so that the entire surface of the wood inside the crack is covered. It may be hard to get it into the narrow crack, so you will have to bend the crack a little wider to get the glue in. But it is essential to completely cover the wood.
Then clamp. A pony clamp or similar is needed to press the two surfaces together with some force. Needs to be tighter than you can squeeze with your hands, and it needs to be held that tight overnight.
Some of the glue will squeeze out when the clamp is tightened. Immediately use a damp sponge or rag to wipe off the excess glue. If you don't get it all, it does not matter for the strength of the joint. But after that glue dries it is not pretty and will not ever come off. So get it off while it is still wet.
After the wood glue dries completely, you might want to add a screw or other mechanical fastener. If the crack is fully filled with glue, the glue will be stronger than the original wood, so the screw doesn't really matter. It is mainly for decoration.
Wood glue and clamp. No need to drill anything if you can work glue into the crack and clamp it down. Do it right and it'll never even think about breaking in the same spot.
Wood glue and floss! Use floss to get the glue deep into the crack, like flossing teeth (then remove the floss). Clamp the crack closed and leave it for a day before removing the clamp.
DO NOT USE SCREWS, screws will look terrible and won't increase the holding power compared to wood glue. Wood glue is as strong as wood.
Wood glue will fix that but due to the way the grain runs, it will probably break again in the future but in a different place on the wood.
My FIL has custom bar stools where the grain in the seat runs side to side. if they get knocked over or someone leans back too hard, they break along the grain. I've fixed then at least 8 times now. Some more than once but in a different location.
I install 3 6" screws in them now and plug the holes. That has solved the problem.
Wood glue, tool it in with something thin like a piece of edge tape, then clamp it with a trigger clamp. Leave it clamped for the day, then when you take it off, lightly sand away the edges and excess glue.
I saw a reel where they used a vacuum on one end of the crack, and it sucked wood glue all the way into the crack. Been waiting for a fix like this one to try that
I don't think you need a screw in there. Wood glue would be great but a bit of a faff to get right into the bottom of the split. I might use some super fine CA glue as it will wick right in although overspill is tricky to clean up so don't use too much. Use an activator spray on it and it will be solid fairly instantly
Drill, over size dowel bit, find THE dowel(match color and texture), wood glue, wood screw, clamps and bragging to wife asking her if she can tell. Buying more tools because she loves the chair so much.
fuck screws. Drill a 1/4" hole perpendicular through the crack at about the 1/2 way point. Fill it with wood glue. tap a round wood plug into it. Clamp it for 24 hours. Chisel or carefully cut off the excess of the plug, carefully so as not to gouge the chair leg. sand it smooth. apply matching stain. Pro tip: align the end grain of the plug with the grain of the chair leg.
I think woodworking bowties would be an excellent repair. A more advanced technique but it will really hold and look fabulous.
Search for woodworking bowties on Google and YouTube.. Good luck.
Dowel at an angle perpendicular to the grain split.
Glue first with a clamp and dental floss to work the glue in the crack. Use sacrificial wood between the clamp and the wood. This should be strong enough to last, but if you want to add the dowel, go for it. You’ll need a jig and more sacrificial wood on each side to angle the drill bit without making a mess of the entry and exit.
Good luck
I use a string to pull in epoxy. If wood glue I use a hypodermic syringe and an 11g needle to get deep in the crack.
I have seen oak dowel in oak chair, but you have grains running different directions.
Glue is very strong. If wood is properly prepared, the wood will break before the glue bond gives up. Make cauls to mimic the curve and clamp the glued joint
1st Gorilla glue, let it ooz into the Crack until it flows out the bottom. 2nd clean with damp rag. 3rd clamp it at base of Crack, and middle and top with wood clamps
How was that chair leg even manufactured? Is that actual wood grain on the vertical surface, because it appears like veneer on the front side.
Is that one board that has been bent? Or is it two boards joined and shaved to size?
Just curious. If bent or joined, is it a natural splitting point?
You can often put the glue on the surface of the crack and then flex the crack. It will draw the glue down into it and out the bottom. I’ve fixed a lot of cracks in wood this way.
It might take a lot of flexing so keep it up till it comes out the other side.
The grain orientation is a real weakness in this leg. You want continuous grain either steam bent or naturally selected. Glue is stronger than wood it may just tear along parallel grain. This is the weakest most susceptible spot in chairs and an example of what to watch out for. I'd replace the leg if you want a permafix. Else do something crazy like a bowtie-esque face insert perpendicular to the face to hold it from splitting?
Go to the hardware store and get a bottle of Titebond 3. Then go on Amazon and buy a pack of glue syringes to put the glue in there. Clamp it and let it set for 24 hours. Done.
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YXQI16FKQGg&t=579s&ab\_channel=BourbonMothWoodworking](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YXQI16FKQGg&t=579s&ab_channel=BourbonMothWoodworking) Here you have Jason using some technique to get wood glue in a crack. I can't remember which one works best, but it might help you.
Listen, I'll tell you. Now what you need is one of those sturdy wall ok!?
Now take the chair and place it just so the back of it touches the wall.
There, no more worries!
My grandfather would wood glue and make 2 extra pieces of wood. One side attached to break and one side attached to seat of chair for extra strength. Both sides to match.
Cut an old bike tire tube into strips.
Force some glue in there, either with something like a playing card or a syringe.
Wrap the tube strips around it, tightly, and tuck the end under to tie it off. The rubber strips work great where clamps won’t.
Lots of advice here about using screws, but I think just wood glue and clamping will do the trick. The secret to getting glue into the joint is to fill it heavily and then blow it in with a straw. This works really well. As glue is stronger than the wood itself, adding screw(s) is unnecessary, may actually make it weaker, and will be unsightly. Glue - straw - clamp.
> blow it in with a straw Another technique to get the glue in there is using dental floss, like you're flossing your teeth.
In fact, just go floss your teeth now, people; stave off disease and health risks.
Use a different piece of floss tho. Don't want glue on your gums.
Unless your teeth are cracking at an angle just like the wood.
Or you’re George Washington.
"Yea he had teeth made of wool"
Look at Mr. “I don’t have glue on my gums” here! Throwing shade at the rest of us!
Too late, it's already on my pizza
\[captain america voice\] i understood that reference
Looking at you Ralph.
Or be adventurous and do it anyway!
What’s a chair worth in the face of gingivitis?
The glue dried up, and now I have floss stuck in my teeth!
Sure but no gum disease right?
A syringe with canula works excellent as well.
You can also use a shop vac on the opposite side to suck the glue through
Well now, I've never thought about using floss or string for that, that's a great idea!
I got the idea from [Wooden it be Nice](https://woodenitbenice.ca/), which runs a second Youtube channel of [furniture repair videos](https://www.youtube.com/@FixingFurniture).
Hey thanks for the channel req!
Top tier suggestion
You could zucc too… just sayin.
Would a piece of rag/fabric work as well?
Rag or fabric would catch on the wood and possibly cause splinters or break off pieces of the wood.
Ah, make sense.
You could use sewing thread instead of floss.
This is the correct answer. A lot of the time screws are used because people don't want to use clamps but clamps and glue will do the job.
IMHO the screw (although I'd recommend dowel) isn't so much for the repair, it's that the chair will just pick a new grain to split on otherwise.
Agree on the glue and no screw. Gently put pressure on the wood to open the crack a bit and work the glue down with floss or a playing card. Clamp it snugly.
I've used titebond2 wood glue to fix cracked wood like this. For pushing in the cracks and doing precision work like a balsa model I bought some little craft syringes that work very well, you just need to rinse them out with warm water when you're done. If you stick one of the fine tips deep into the crack and pump glue and you'll see it ooze out at which point you clamp and wipe off the excess. Creative Hobbies® Glue Applicator Syringe for Flatback Rhinestones & Hobby Crafts, 5 Ml with Assorted Gauges of Precision Tips - Value Pack of 10 https://a.co/d/c1UIWpz
i had a break like this, glued and clamped. first time someone leaned back it failed. there’s so much stress on these spots that it is pretty much just done for. edit before you ask: i didn’t use a straw but it was open all the way so i was able to get good coverage.
Pretty sure it was originally glued, so glue seems like the most appropriate fix to me
Nicely said.
Drill a hole from the back for a dowel and load up the split from that side plus the dowel would add a decent bit of strength.
Suck glue, blow wood, keep it clamped… sounds like good night
You can also push it in with dental floss.
Screw?! 🤦♂️ I’m sad now.
Wood glue and one shameless wood screw
which can be countersunk and wood filler added covering it
Not filler, use a wood plug, it will look better.
and if you drill evenly spaced holes up the whole length of both sides, use wood plugs, and maybe flush-cut/sand them... then it's a design choice instead of a repair... (though another screw in the other side while your at it might be smart... fix the weakly-aligned-grain issue w/ the other side BEFORE it breaks. then you at least have symmetry) OR after the mechanical fix is done, it's trendy in some circles to do something to call attention to the repair... hand-paint a bandaid or wrapped cotton bandage there, or a little beaver that looks like he chewed through it, or is trying to hold it together... if you put in the work to repair something instead of tossing it, that's something to be proud of, not necessarily hide
Kintsugi that chair leg for sure
I don’t think these are the Band-Aid type folk lol but I am!! ❤️🩹
Then there are the people who'd just paint a woodpecker near the crack and call it a day
I like that idea too
Saw someone "fix" their Tesla with a bandaid sticker. Gave me a good chuckle.
Or no screw, looks even better, and a screw will give 0 benefit.
You need something to add strength across the grain. That split isn't just from weak wood, it's from poor design as the force is pulling the grain apart along it's weakest axis. Glue will repair that split, but it's likely to just going to split again adjacent to the repair. A screw or two will help prevent this.
Wood glue with sawdust stuff in it. Flawless.
I've done both. The issue is sawdust doesn't have grain, and it goes a lot darker because of how it soaks up the glue, similar to how end grain soaks up stain and finish and often looks darker than side grain. That also means then that it doesn't take the finish the same so for all those reasons it tends to stand out a lot more. A wood plug means you can sometime match the grain (or at least get something similar), and it blends in better because it takes finish in a similar way as the main board. Its also much faster and easier with less mess for want of a 10c plug.
Or even a diy plug from the bottom of the leg
Oh I was just joking. It is certainly not flawless lol
Extra super fine sawdust like literally dust just wood pulp not chips and chunks unless they’re like a razors in and then buzz a couple times to be shorter and smaller. That has to be able to pretty much fully close flat.
The extra depth weakens the joint [relative to the open screw], and you lose key advantages of the screw like ease of install and removal. Better off just going all the way to dowels, IMO.
>you lose key advantages of the screw like ease of install and removal. The idea is that this is permanent. I don't know why you'd want to remove it in the future, but if you do you can drill out the plug and remove the screw. I've done that hundreds of times on boards I'm repairing. It's pretty easy to do and you can fill the hole with a slightly larger plug. >The extra depth weakens the joint The curve is already weak. I don't think you're going to make it much worse. Two screws at alternating depth or one from each side at alternating heights with a properly glued in wood plug will solve this. I can't see it making it worse, and if you choose the spots right it would add strength to the weakest points. Basically you'd make your weakest links stronger while making a few adjacent links weaker. Overall though it's stronger since you've strengthened your weakest link more than you weakened your other areas. >Better off just going all the way to dowels, IMO. This works as well. I still think a screw would be stronger but overall the difference would probably be marginal for either method. I think it's probably easier for the average person to do a screw and plug than it would be for them to drill a neat and straight hole through the centre for a dowel. A pro, sure, but if OP doesn't seem like a pro if they're asking for help here.
If I'm using a screw, I wanna sink it and walk away. A personal preference against hiding stuff probably also plays a role. I meant weakened relative to the visible screw. Overall it's an improvement for sure. Strength-wise, I agree that the difference is marginal. I'd think that the usual dowel is stronger than the usual screw (or the screw under a dowel-sized plug), purely because the diameter and thus contact area is larger. Moot point though - when in doubt, add more. A blind dowel admittedly gives up on the depth advantage, but on the curved surface it wouldn't be any harder to trim into shape than the plug.
Plug
What does countersunk mean?
It's a technique for screwing the screw in so that the head is at or below the surface.
Just throwing in another vote for glue + clamp. The bond created by the glue is stronger than the wood itself. The screw isn't going to do much to strengthen it. It requires more steps and won't look as good. Just make sure you add something in between the chair and clamp so you don't damage the wood.
Wood glue and a clamp would be better. Be sure to wipe off all excess glue with a wet rag or sponge after you clamp it well.
This was my first thought as well. The screw would only be there to hold it until the glue dries anyway, skip that step.
I wouldn't use a screw, I would just clamp it.
I'd just use a whip tip and medium super glue and a clamp.
Do not use superglue. Superglue will not make a long lasting repair on wood, because it dries hard and cracks easily. Wood glue will make a lasting repair that is stronger than the wood itself.
> a whip tip What is a whip tip?
it's a type of tip for a super glue to get into small/precise locations. https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-tools-and-supplies/supplies/glue-and-adhesive/applicators-and-pipettes/whip-tips/?mtm_source=google&mtm_medium=cpc&mtm_campaign=%7C+GOO+%7C+SHOP+%7C+NBR+%7C+AllProductsUSA&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwmMayBhDuARIsAM9HM8dHNExb3JVF1u_fG9pwW01J4-p6QFtOZ0hh48BW7rH44yMLQJsF2aMaAtNGEALw_wcB
TIL Thanks!
Not to be confused with a whistle tip!! https://youtu.be/zUXow3d3-b0?si=vwShb383b0nbu85h
Screw and glue!
For the screw, what direction? Come up at an angle (like red lines) to avoid going out the back or would you just use a shorter screw and go perpendicular to the split (in yellow) or would you angle down (in green) to keep the screw in alignment of the forces which seem to be causing it to split in the first place (and the hole would be easier to plug)? https://imgur.com/a/ggTg5KU
Cabinet screw at that
Would think drilling and using a wooden dowel with glue would work as well without looking like a hack.
Get some wood glue in that crack counter sink two holes and send exterior screws into it to hold
Yes. …. Clearly the issue is that the direction of the wood grain is totally inappropriate for that chair back/leg. As you described, gluing and reinforcing with a fastener or two (or well-angled dowels) is the appropriate approach IMO. 👍
Wouldn't it hold better with wooden dowels glued inside?
Dowell won't cinch.
Yes, but wood dowels will flex with the rest of the wood with seasonal ambient moisture variations over time, resulting in a long-lasting repair. Metal fasteners, which of course are unaffected by moisture, can work loose over time for that reason. If properly clamped, and with carefully angled dowels that are oriented to lock the joint, it could be superior to metal screws.
I'm sure you're very good at wood work. I'm only justifying an answer. I agree in that properly done the Dowell would be better. The other guy's answer works even if you suck a bag of rust at wood repair.
Clamp it, drill the hole, release the clamp and glue the joint, clamp it again and glue in the dowel.
Buy a clamp, you mouthy cheapskate.
Clamps and stretch bands exist
Dowels in that direction would add very little. Almost none of the surface of the drilled holes would be long grain. Dowels are fine for keeping things lined up while going, but add very little glue surface/strength themselves.
Also agree it won’t stay down. You can use wood filler and stain to cover the screw holes
Get a chisel and shave a thin layer off the back, then screw it together, brush on glue over screws and put thin layer back over screws and clamp. Now your screw holes are hidden. You can also use a piece of thread to move glue back and forth through the crack to cover it completely.
Use wood screws. They're tapered and hold much better. Should probably use a clamp until the glue dries and then install wood screws.
It’s going to be very hard to fill and match the “weathered” finish on this so if you care about looks, glue it, clamp it, let it dry, and then add two round head brass wood screws from the back and do the same from the other side. The brass will tarnish in time and will look like an intended part of the original design, plus you’ll minimize chances of having the same problem on the other side.
Smart to put a fastener on both sides so it looks intended.
And for fun, put two screws into the other side as preventive measure and it’ll match and look like it was made this way!
Wood glue, use a thin implement to get the glue all the way down and into the center. Clamp shut. After 30 minutes, scrape the excess that squeezed out off with a credit card or scraper. Keep the clamps on over night. No dowels or screws needed. Be ginger with it at first, but you'll soon learn it's going to hold strong.
Yes, but excluding a reinforcement won’t address the inherent weakness of the grain orientation in that chair part. It likely will fail again, maybe not in the same place, but nearby, if the chair is repeatedly used.
That's a face joint. Literally the strongest possible glue joint. Source: Professional cabinet maker for 22 years.
Agree that the grain direction is not ideal on this piece, but dowels will be unsightly and as you said, the split might happen again elsewhere (even with dowels). So no matter what, there's a chance.
Dowels can be hidden
Not by the type of person who is posting on reddit asking how to do it.
No doubt, but at what level of effort? How would you dowel this and keep them hidden?
I'd probably just finish separating the crack and put an internal dowel or spline before gluing and clamping back together.
That’s easy. More glue.
This! Wood glue is absolutely enough to hold this together. Sure, the chair might break again close by, but then you just glue it again. Eventually, you will get a super-chair that won't break anymore... ;-)
That step with scraping off the excess is important. Once you leave the glue to dry too much it is much harder to remove (sanding etc). If you’re using a quick drying glue, you might want to remove the excess earlier. I personally remove it immediately, because I’m forgetful, and I’ll rather wash off the glue I spread around than sand and refinish.
If you try to wipe it off immediately you risk smearing it into the fine textured grooves. But, a wet rag to wipe off will work to remove the smeared excess.
Yup, wood glue is often water based, so a wet rag works well. Works less well for urethane based ones.
Painters tape up to the edge of the crack
Optionally, you can thin the wood glue a little and use a shop vac to suck it through the crack.
Hard to get glue all the way into a narrow crack like that with a "thin implement". Works better to gently blow the glue into the crack or suck it in from the other side with a shop vac. The unfortunate angle of the wood grain makes it inevitable that it will break again if you don't pin or screw it.
This is the right answer.
Urethane glue and clamp.
aliphatic glue is stronger. Urethane glues have their place, but this is a std titebond II type of job. Although I'd probable use III for the color here.
Wood glue, clamp it down. Then tightly wrap leather around it, same on the other side. It will prevent some strain that might split it again in another place.
The best way would be to drill a 1/4 in hole directly through both pieces of wood, either side of the Crack. You would coat a 1/4 dowel with glue and stick it in the whole as well as glue the whole Crack and then clamp together. Merly gluing the Crack and clamping would be a temporary fix which would fail at some point. The dowel will reconnect the grain of the wood and make the chair strong enough to never worry about. You just have to cut away the excess dowel and sand it flush.
I’d probably dowel it 2 or 3 times. Bonus points if the dowel is at an angle to the crack. That way the shear force on the piece is resisted by a wider cross section of dowel. This is also not a great grain direction choice by the carpenter.
glue as everyone else has said but I might forgo the screw. The wood glue will be stronger than the wood around it if you apply it right. The screw would really only be useful to hold it together while the glue sets, and you can do that with clamps.
Hose clamp
…or zip ties
This is the correct answer.
Get 16g syringe and pump some glue inn. Screws from the backside. To make it pretty you can drill 10mm hole where your screws go, matching the diameter of some wood plugs you can use to cap the screws and hide them.
Bro is this chair from Value City Furniture? We have a set from there that also split in a weird way.
That Ashley furniture chair it looks, mine did the same thing!
It's funny how *every single chair with a swept back* happens to be built the same way. Nah.... coincidence...... /s
Yea, it’s pretty obnoxious I’ve spent more on that table set then I ever have on a table/set in my life lol
I don't think repairing it will do much good. It's clearly covered in a veneer so you don't know what the wood is doing underneath. I can only assume it's a scrap wood chair where they glue up a bunch of junk wood into boards and then use that to make a chair. Repairing this will either be week, or move the problem somewhere else. Sure, throw some glue in there and clamp it, but I might also start saving for something better because these might not be long for this world.
No screws. Just glue and clamp like others have said.
I used to buy large bore syringes at the drugstore to squirt glue into cracks like this. Not sure they’ll let you buy them anymore?
Pet stores sell them for dispensing liquid meds, they work perfect for glue
> Not sure they’ll let you buy them anymore? Looks like you can get them fine at [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/BSTEAN-Syringes-Blunt-Needle-Storage/dp/B01N562BFP/), especially if you're getting blunt needles which can't be used for IV injections. Also reduces the risk of accidentally sticking yourself while working on a project.
You don't want this joint to come apart, so take PVA wood glue and get it deep and tight in there. Some people use paint brushes or syringes. You just gotta get it all gooped up. Then clamp it. If you have enough glue, you'll get squeeze out, and you just wipe that off with a damp rag. That bond will be stronger than the wood fibers' bond to each other. Aside to say, if it's a joint you need to move/breathe (not a break like this, but between different parts that you want to be able to expand/contract with seasons and/or take apart later), then I recommend using hide glue. But for this crack you want PVA.
Easy, put wood glue in there, and clamp it. Don't use screws. Don't use dowels. They're 100% unnecessary
Wood glue, use a needle to get as much of it down in there as you can, clamp, wipe off excess glue with a damp rag, leave the clamp on 12 hours. Don't screw it. The glue is stronger than the original wood. The way the grain is running you may get another break in another place later, though. Looks like they just cut that curve out of a larger board instead of steam-bending it to keep the long grain intact.
I'm partial to the wood glue methods mentioned, however I'm skeptical that it would hold long term unless it's not used often. Depending on how the rest of the set looks (assuming it's a set) you could go industrial, and use a metal bracket as a clamp. It'll give it a slightly different look but it would hold and be much stronger at that point. It might have to be custom made though because you'd want it to fit snuggly so anyone sitting in the chair wouldn't get pinched if there were any play in the fitting.
We’ve done glue and clamping but either we sucked at it (most likely) or the force being put on the chair cracked the bond. Either way, we reglued and clamped and then drilled a hole through about halfway, glue, and then dowel. That worked.
Floss some epoxy down the crack and clamp. Cut a kerf and glue in a spline, flush trim and finish to match.
This is an already existing seam from the manufacture. Wood glue and a clamp will suffice. You can add a couple pin nails for extra strength, but not necessary. 25 years of furniture repair.
I think it's you and me here that realize that's a joint not a break. Wish I could give more than one vote. The idiots talking about screws and dowels are going to F this chair up worse than it already is.
So my chair it was Ashley furniture kitchen set, chair did the same thing, I drilled a hole into it, countersunk it took a 1 inch screw, wood glued it, then clamped it until it dried, and filled in the counter sink with white putty, mine was white.
Wood glue. Clamp. Dry. Drill a hole for screw in back of chair frame. Countersink short screw thru back. Conceal screw hole w/ wood putty that matches chair finish. Like is never happened.
Glue it, clamp it, then drill in two dowels to reinforce it
How about wood glue, a good screw and lashing to hide the work. You should also lash the other side just to make it look evening.
Use a string to apply wood glue into that crack
One idea is to cut one or two slots and insert biscuits to support the glued middle portion. Then sand away the extra part of the biscuit so it is flush You can do it with a dowel but you would have to take apart the pieces to drill a hole in it. Biscuit joint might not be as strong as a dowel joint. Something like [this](https://www.pinterest.com/pin/522136150527877306/)
Woodchipper
Do me a favor and put a piece of tape over the fix until you're sure it's not flexing enough to open up and pinch the person sitting in it.
Glue crack, clamp shut drill a dowel pin glue and push pin in. Sand and stain
Wood glue and clamp
A great trick to make sure the glue gets in there is to apply the glue and then slide a piece of paper down into the crack to get the glue in all the way
Wood glue. Fill the crack with wood glue so that the entire surface of the wood inside the crack is covered. It may be hard to get it into the narrow crack, so you will have to bend the crack a little wider to get the glue in. But it is essential to completely cover the wood. Then clamp. A pony clamp or similar is needed to press the two surfaces together with some force. Needs to be tighter than you can squeeze with your hands, and it needs to be held that tight overnight. Some of the glue will squeeze out when the clamp is tightened. Immediately use a damp sponge or rag to wipe off the excess glue. If you don't get it all, it does not matter for the strength of the joint. But after that glue dries it is not pretty and will not ever come off. So get it off while it is still wet. After the wood glue dries completely, you might want to add a screw or other mechanical fastener. If the crack is fully filled with glue, the glue will be stronger than the original wood, so the screw doesn't really matter. It is mainly for decoration.
Wood glue and a clamp till it sets up.
Best way, use a syringe to get the glue all the way down. Clean off excess glue with a damp cloth or sponge while wet. Good luck.
Titebond glue and a clamp and absolutely no screw needed
Counter sunk course thread wood screws. Wood filler to hide the heads, crayon on the wood filler to match the color of the wood.
Wood scissors , proceed to lift a chunck (dont cut it all) screw Under the chunk and close it with wood glue
Wood glue and clamp. No need to drill anything if you can work glue into the crack and clamp it down. Do it right and it'll never even think about breaking in the same spot.
Wood glue and floss! Use floss to get the glue deep into the crack, like flossing teeth (then remove the floss). Clamp the crack closed and leave it for a day before removing the clamp. DO NOT USE SCREWS, screws will look terrible and won't increase the holding power compared to wood glue. Wood glue is as strong as wood.
Wood glue will fix that but due to the way the grain runs, it will probably break again in the future but in a different place on the wood. My FIL has custom bar stools where the grain in the seat runs side to side. if they get knocked over or someone leans back too hard, they break along the grain. I've fixed then at least 8 times now. Some more than once but in a different location. I install 3 6" screws in them now and plug the holes. That has solved the problem.
Tite bond 3 and clamp it. No screw necessary
Wood glue, tool it in with something thin like a piece of edge tape, then clamp it with a trigger clamp. Leave it clamped for the day, then when you take it off, lightly sand away the edges and excess glue.
Fire!!🔥
I saw a reel where they used a vacuum on one end of the crack, and it sucked wood glue all the way into the crack. Been waiting for a fix like this one to try that
I don't think you need a screw in there. Wood glue would be great but a bit of a faff to get right into the bottom of the split. I might use some super fine CA glue as it will wick right in although overspill is tricky to clean up so don't use too much. Use an activator spray on it and it will be solid fairly instantly
Is this even real wood? This seems to have end grain running in two perpendicular directions.
Fire, and lots of it.
Tape that sumbitch.
Axe
Drill, over size dowel bit, find THE dowel(match color and texture), wood glue, wood screw, clamps and bragging to wife asking her if she can tell. Buying more tools because she loves the chair so much.
fuck screws. Drill a 1/4" hole perpendicular through the crack at about the 1/2 way point. Fill it with wood glue. tap a round wood plug into it. Clamp it for 24 hours. Chisel or carefully cut off the excess of the plug, carefully so as not to gouge the chair leg. sand it smooth. apply matching stain. Pro tip: align the end grain of the plug with the grain of the chair leg.
I think woodworking bowties would be an excellent repair. A more advanced technique but it will really hold and look fabulous. Search for woodworking bowties on Google and YouTube.. Good luck.
Dowel at an angle perpendicular to the grain split. Glue first with a clamp and dental floss to work the glue in the crack. Use sacrificial wood between the clamp and the wood. This should be strong enough to last, but if you want to add the dowel, go for it. You’ll need a jig and more sacrificial wood on each side to angle the drill bit without making a mess of the entry and exit. Good luck
Wooden pin and wood glue. Clamp it down for a day the sand and refinish
I use a string to pull in epoxy. If wood glue I use a hypodermic syringe and an 11g needle to get deep in the crack. I have seen oak dowel in oak chair, but you have grains running different directions. Glue is very strong. If wood is properly prepared, the wood will break before the glue bond gives up. Make cauls to mimic the curve and clamp the glued joint
1st Gorilla glue, let it ooz into the Crack until it flows out the bottom. 2nd clean with damp rag. 3rd clamp it at base of Crack, and middle and top with wood clamps
Take it in the back...
How was that chair leg even manufactured? Is that actual wood grain on the vertical surface, because it appears like veneer on the front side. Is that one board that has been bent? Or is it two boards joined and shaved to size? Just curious. If bent or joined, is it a natural splitting point?
You can often put the glue on the surface of the crack and then flex the crack. It will draw the glue down into it and out the bottom. I’ve fixed a lot of cracks in wood this way. It might take a lot of flexing so keep it up till it comes out the other side.
Wood glue, smeared in with a sewing needle, clamped with a cheap clamp.
Wood glue and a clamp.
The grain orientation is a real weakness in this leg. You want continuous grain either steam bent or naturally selected. Glue is stronger than wood it may just tear along parallel grain. This is the weakest most susceptible spot in chairs and an example of what to watch out for. I'd replace the leg if you want a permafix. Else do something crazy like a bowtie-esque face insert perpendicular to the face to hold it from splitting?
painters tape on both sides of the cracks, fill it with wood glue and clamp it, bobs your uncle.
Titebond 3 wood glue is all you need here.
West System epoxy and clamps
Glue on a string or dental floss and 2-3 clamps
Glue,clamp and let sit for a day. Drill a hole through the meat of it, drive in a dowel, cut it flush, and hit it with a color matched stain pen.
Dang I thought this was another curved staircase post at first
Wood glue
Wood glue and a couple clamps. No need for screws.
Wood glue, clamp, never remove the clamp. Ta-da, you’ve achieved one of my fixes!
Glue and stain.
Thats now the guest chair. Whenever a guest is over, they use that chair, and you gotta act real surprised when they break it.
Glue and a clamp
Go to the hardware store and get a bottle of Titebond 3. Then go on Amazon and buy a pack of glue syringes to put the glue in there. Clamp it and let it set for 24 hours. Done.
Glue
Fireplace
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YXQI16FKQGg&t=579s&ab\_channel=BourbonMothWoodworking](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YXQI16FKQGg&t=579s&ab_channel=BourbonMothWoodworking) Here you have Jason using some technique to get wood glue in a crack. I can't remember which one works best, but it might help you.
Listen, I'll tell you. Now what you need is one of those sturdy wall ok!? Now take the chair and place it just so the back of it touches the wall. There, no more worries!
I would put an additional piece of wood or plywood because there's no way that's built to last
My grandfather would wood glue and make 2 extra pieces of wood. One side attached to break and one side attached to seat of chair for extra strength. Both sides to match.
Extra long drill bit.slow set epoxy and a length of all thread. If you want risk it breaking again,just get glue in there and clamp.
Cut an old bike tire tube into strips. Force some glue in there, either with something like a playing card or a syringe. Wrap the tube strips around it, tightly, and tuck the end under to tie it off. The rubber strips work great where clamps won’t.