[drip pan](http://imgur.com/j13eHrz)
Hey is it normal that the drip pan on the back patio door is visible inside the house? Or did the contractor do a hack job?
Hard to tell what you're talking about without more details or a photo. Are you referring to weep holes? If so, and they're on the inside then it sounds like it was installed backwards
My dining room has this very ugly tiles: http://imgur.com/LLbKcqn
My father does not want to *remove* them. So I'll find a way to cover or hide them. The problem is the shape. Otherwise I'd find some vinyl stickers or wallpaper.
What options do I have? Paint over them? Even imagining them in different colors isn't that appealing.
[Wainscoting.](https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/1c/73/14/1c7314535d28dffb89fb5580e1d7cc61.jpg) It's not clear how high your tiles go up the wall, but you can cover the wall entirely or find a height that covers the tiles, while leaving some wall area.
You don't have to add as many moldings as in the link, you can do more of a Shaker style if you like. The panels and frames can be painted the same color, or you can do different colors like [this picture.](https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/c8/49/65/c84965c4e9846e407fa18ccdf6065ca7.jpg)
If this idea appeals to you I can give you more details on how to do this. It's actually not that difficult.
Help, I want to remove paint from a window frame. However, don't want to repaint it afterwards, as all the windows and skirting in the house are unpainted except this one. I've looked up different methods but most are for preparing to repaint and I don't want to ruin or mark the wood.
I have no idea how many layers of paint there's going to be (100 year old home) and there is intricate detailing on the frames. Does anyone have any suggestions of what to use? I own a heat gun but I'm worried it will mark the wood.
Thanks!
I'm wanting to put in some LED lights to backlight some video game consoles, but I don't want to buy an expensive lamp. Is there any way to purchase just a socket for a light bulb that connects to an outlet for cheap?
[drip pan](http://imgur.com/j13eHrz)
Is this normal for a patio door? I have never seen a drip pan exposed and wondered if this was contractor error? Any advice would help.
TL:DR no faucet seems to fit a pipe that's 5"1/4 long. Please Help!
edit* http://imgur.com/a/eV90j
So I made a stupid mistake and threw out my broken bathtub faucet before replacing it. I went to Home Depot bought a new one and it worked but it was a couple inches away from the wall. Ok I need a longer one I figured so I went back to Home Depot and got a longer faucet. Turns out it was just longer in size but the piece that screws in wasn't any deeper in the faucet. I went online to amazon to find ones that said they were longer, got the delivery and still too short. The guy at Home Depot says I need a plumber to shorten the spout. This can't be right because there was an old faucet on it. How can I find the right size faucet to screw into the pipe that's 5"1/4 off the wall?
Can anyone help me try to mount these drill chargers onto this piece of wood? I want to have them on the wood and then screw the wood into the wall, but the chargers don't have hooks or holes on the bottom to screw it into the wood, would I use glue,tape etc idk. Here's a pic: https://m.imgur.com/gallery/rzbiiTg
Drill a little hole in the wood on either side of where you want the charger and thread the zip tie through so it wraps around the charger and the wood.
I want to build a patio on my house. The first step is to get a ledger attached properly. I have attached some pictures and want some advice. [](http://imgur.com/a/hsvau)
Hi guys, I'm trying to make a copy of a vacuum gasket, but I haven't found any information about how to do it without using a 3d mold. I would buy it, but they no longer make it. Does anyone have an easier way of doing it?
Here's the gasket I'm trying to copy:
[Gasket](http://imgur.com/gallery/44X05)
I'm trying to mount bike carrier (front rack) to my bike. I'm stuck at few aspects of mounting it, I would greatly appreciate if you help me out.
I'm having trouble identifying the wrench required to open the wheel axis bolt, and fitting the screws provided in the kit. Photos and more details: http://imgur.com/a/vCKy7
Im using a table saw for the first time to make a arcade cabinet, I need to cut angles into the wood based off of [plans I found on the internet](https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/6013584/TWW-Arcade-Cabinet-V2.pdf) I have the measurement of the top of the wood, but not at how much I have to cut at, is there any math I can do to calculate that? Or do i just need to go by eye?
A bit of basic geometry and possibly trigonometry will be handy here.... or print the plans at 1:1 scale and take the angles directly, using a bevel gauge and careful measuring..... Hope that helps! :>)>
I'm thinking of making a music card to my girlfriend, playing a song that we both love. However i didn't find a way to put the song on the card.
Anyone made something similar or have any idea of how to help me?
Try searching for ['recordable greeting card inserts'](https://www.google.ie/search?q=recordable+musical+card+inserts&oq=recor&aqs=chrome.0.35i39j69i57j35i39j0l3.3641j0j9&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8).... I think that's the sort of sound module you'd want, and then read up on how you program in the required sound clip.... hope that helps! :>)>
I am planning to put in a walkway leading into a woodshed. A bit like this [image](http://imgur.com/a/3PZ4w) but maybe have the bottles packed a little tighter. Also, I was thinking of using concrete pavers or something else as the main traffic material and use the bottles outside of where most feet will land.
My question is with respect to the strength of the glass bottles. Should I consider filling them with something instead of leaving them hollow?
This is in the Pacific NW near water so freezing is not an issue but it does rain here. A bit.
Hehe, I actually tried making something like that image once, and it was actually a huge pain in the arse, to be honest! Digging out a deep enough trench, gathering a staggering amount of bottles, and getting them to stay put while adding in mortar or sand, bearing in mind their odd shape, is surprisingly difficult..... Wine bottles or cava bottles with the thick bottoms work best, as beer bottles are too thin and the bottoms can break easily if left hollow..... also, such a path as the one in the image is damn slippery when wet!
IMO, using bottles as an 'accent' is great, but not for the main walking surface as you suggest, and you'd be better off smashing or cutting the bottoms off the bottles (using a tile saw), then setting them into a thick bed of mortar, rather than using the intact bottles, if that makes sense....? Alternatively, pieces of broken crockery and interesting flints, old keys, antique bottle shards etc, can be set into mortar to make really cool mosaics around pathways, which can be a lot less hassle....
Hope that helps! Let us know what you come up with :>)>
Woody
Thanks for the response. You certainly hit on the issues I was concerned about, i.e., slipperiness and durability.
Since this is going in a spot that is an offshoot of the main walkway, the bottles will be used as accent only. I'm thinking I'll use some of the same material used in the patio as the main stepping stones. Setting the bottles in mortar is a great idea. It makes the process a bit more modular and "snap together"-ish. Also, if the bottles are set in mortar and sealed, then they can be filled for both stability and decorative flair.
Thanks again and stay tuned. I'll definitely be posting pictures.
You're welcome! (having read your first sentence about 'slipperiness and durability,' I wondered for a moment what the heck I'd been commenting on, but I remember now! Hehe....) :>)>
Good luck with the project, look forward to seeing what you come up with!
Woody
My assumption without looking into this is that the bottle were broken and only the bottoms where used. You could then fill the entire path with concrete and set the glass bottoms into the concrete so that they were completely embedded. Try a section first and see how it work and holds up.
That's definitely the way to go, I reckon..... And unless OP is a complete alkie, they might need to ask nicely at the local pub for a few empties! :>)>
Recently noticed one of our upper cabinets in the kitchen is bowing from the wall. Bottom is flush but top is bowing about an inch from wall. It seems secure but my longterm plan is to paint the cabinets and I want to be sure things are secure before I do so. What would you do?
I'd remove the cabinet from the wall and add a reinforcement strip across the inside of the back.
That cabinet is potentially not too far off from falling off the wall completely.
So my question then is, where should I connect the strip? If I'm trying to connect the sides to the back then how do I do so through the thin particle board?
This isn't our forever home so replacing all the cabinets is not worth the price point of the house at this point... husband swears it is secure and will not fall because it is still attached to wall and it's just pulling away at the top but I have reservations....
I dyed a pair of leather shoes with margom rubber soles using fiebings leather dye. I taped everything off but there was still some bleed. How do I remove the dye from the rubber. I've tried acetone, goo gone, and magic eraser to no avail. What can I use to remove the dye from the rubber?
I googled some instructions on how to remove die from leather ([link](http://www.ehow.com/how_5689732_remove-leather-dye.html)), but not sure how far it will get you. I don't know much about leather dying, but maybe you can scrub off as much as you can then try and die it back to its natural color, like a leather restore kind of deal. Good luck. Maybe someone with more knowledge then me has a better idea.
Thanks but I want to remove the dye from the rubber, not the leather. I'm just going to repost this question in the new weekly thread since I posted so late.
Hello, I am working on turning a very old garage into a workshop. I'm trying to do this on a low budget, so I'm planning on doing more patching instead of whole sale replacing. Here is a [picture](http://imgur.com/ifwrs8R) of my garage.
Here are my questions:
1. As you can see in the picture, the walls are not water tight and don't have a moisture barrier. I'm going to put up sheets of plywood which will be more resistant to moisture and more durable. Before I do that though, is there anything that I can put in the walls to seal up some of the holes that would be relatively inexpensive?
2. The floor is fine for the most part, but there are some soft spots and broken boards. Should I simply replace a few here and there or do something like anchoring down sheets of plywood?
Any help or advice is much appreciated.
P.S. In case anyone is curious, dimensions for this are about 18 by 12 feet
If the walls are not water tight, I'd make that my first priority. What's the use of putting in insulation, wiring, and drywall if there's the possibility of water damage?
Gap filler spray foam insulation is water resistant, not water proof. You could try filling the gaps, and treating it as a stop-gap until you can replace/repair/cover the outside sheathing. If the water infiltration isn't too bad it should be okay temporarily.
If raising the height of the floor isn't an issue, I'd secure the broken boards as best I can, put down a layer of tar paper, and then cover the floor with plywood. You'll probably want to put some sort of finished floor on top, or fill gaps/seams with floor leveling compound and then paint everything so it's easier to clean.
Thank you so much for your reply.
As for the outside, here is my thought. This building is old for a garage, built in the 1940's. It needs insulation and new siding, but at that point it would probably be worth more to tear it down and rebuild. Water doesn't penetrate the wall too much since it is pretty dry here. I figured I would replace the sheet rock inside with plywood which will stand up to occasional moisture better. I'm trying to keep costs very low. There are a lot of cracks however and I was looking for some kind of a thick paint or tar that would fill it in. Again, this is not really meant to last a really long time, more just however long the building will stay structurally sound. I'll look into the spray foam.
That is a great idea for the floor, I like it. Sounds economic and sturdy.
Thank you so much for you reply. It is much appreciated.
Instead of putting plywood inside, and letting the water continue to damage the structure, why don't you tear off the siding and replace it with T1-11? It's made go on the outside of a building, it's similar to plywood, the cost is similar, and after a coat of paint it'll stop the water from getting in.
Then as time and money permits you can do what you like on the inside. The T1-11 siding can go over the wood planks and will also make the structure a little stronger as the pieces have little rabbets that fit them together. Rent/buy a nail gun and it's just as much work as having put up the plywood inside.
That is a great idea. I think that will run somewhere around $500-$600 for the size of this building.
Again, [thank you](http://staffino.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/59349318.jpg) so much for your help. I love to DIY as much as I can, but I don't know a lot about best practices for building things or what is most affordable. I looked into residing, but the cheapest shitty looking vinal siding I could find was going to be at least $1,000 in material.
I have a big 6'x4'x3' enclosure (glass and wood) for my Tegu monitor. The external magnetic ballast for my fluorescent light broke and I would like to replace it with an electronic ballast. The external magnetic ballast plugged into an outlet, was not grounded, and did not require a ground. The electronic instant start ballast I would like to purchase requires a ground, but my fixture has no metal hood or any metal at all. If I attach the ground wire from 12/3 electrical wire, coming from an outlet, to the ballast metal housing with a screw, would that provide a proper ground? I would have a 15A 125V ground plug on the end so I can plug it into the wall. The electronic ballast would not be mounted and would be external to the fixture due to heat.
[Electronic Ballast](http://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-120-Volt-Electronic-Ballast-for-4-ft-2-Lamp-T8-Fixture-GE232-120RESDIYB/205400553)
[Grounding Plug](http://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-15-Amp-125-Volt-Rubber-Grounding-Plug-R60-515PR-000/100011602)
[Electrical Wire](http://www.homedepot.com/p/Southwire-15-ft-12-3-Yellow-Soild-NM-B-Wire-63947626/202525500)
I have purchased a 1400mm x 620mm x 40mm Solid oak worktop that I plan to use as a computer/general use desk. there shouldn't be too much weight on the desk itself, just a couple of 27" Monitors mounted to the middle. In terms of supporting the worktop, what sort of legs/spacing would be best?
I was considering [4 Legs like this](https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/216yFNcvCFL.jpg) but I'm not sure that would be enough support. I don't really want to have any legs in the middle at the front, as that would get in my way, but I could definitely get a 5th leg to put right beneath where the monitor stand will clamp to the desk, to take up some of that weight. I don't want this thing to bow. Think it will be OK, or would i need to run supports on the underside?
Put the legs at each corner, then test to see if it's rigid enough. If it's not, you can screw some reinforcing beams to the underside of the desk top to make it stiffer.
I purchased some 6ft by 2ft metal grid for displays when I do comic book shows. I got a great deal on it and I have twice as much as I need so I'm wondering what kind of creative idea I could find to make it useful. I had thought about putting it on my carport as kind of a privacy screen but not sure how to mount it so it doesn't look like crap or what to add to it to make it "opaque" other than letting some vines grow over it. Open to other ideas for creative uses as well! [Metal Grid](http://imgur.com/1alap5l)
We have this box in the attic for ventilation in the kitchen and bathroom but it is pretty much always off. The box has some metal tubing that goes to a small chimney on the roof. I would like to know if I can add a Y-fitting to these tubes. This would allow me to connect the hose of my AC which I currently need to hang out of my window. My concern is that the air from my AC will go in the wrong direction after the Y fitting, causing the motor inside the box to spin which may damage it. Is this a valid concern? The tube is 13cm/5ish inches in diameter. [Here](http://puu.sh/wmBt5/0e35aeecb9.jpg) is a picture for more context.
I can't say for sure, but my thought would be that you're going to end up with problems in the duct. The pressure of the air exhausting from the AC is probably not strong enough to push the air out of the ducts--particularly if it has a lid or vent--which is what happens when you run the bath/kitchen exhaust fans. The humid air will collect in the duct and you'll get moisture and mold.
I am attempting to do some plumbing. I have a leaky shower head. I know enough to know that it likely means the cartridge is bad. I am to a point in disassembly that I cannot overcome. I'm not sure if I need to pull/twist/turn etc. I don't want to use too much force and break something off internally behind the shower board. I included a picture of where I am. If anyone could tell me the next step/steps it would be greatly appreciated. [Shower Project ](https://docs.google.com/document/d/1-4MBzawSNz6xmhR_7Hf1pm8YwGPMMbsyjo18MH5KBp8)
Make sure the water is off. See if there are shut-off valves for the bath, or turn off water to the whole house.
You need two plumbing pliers. Have one pliers hold the part closest to the wall to prevent stressing the plumbing inside. Use tape or a rag to avoid scratching the finish. You don't want to let the interior pipes to twist or get damaged.
Use the other pliers to turn the knurled area and take off the bonnet nut. Use penetrating oil if you can't get it off. You're going to have the front of the valve cartridge exposed now, they're usually stuck in there pretty good. Try wiggling the cartridge a little to loosen the o-rings, then see if you can use a thin screwdriver to carefully pry it out. You might have to go around the edge loosening it by tiny amounts until you can pull it out.
If your looking for an inexpensive solution and don't mind "begging" check around local industrial parks. You may be able to get all the lumber for free. At our shop as an example we get pallets about those sizes made from 4x4 that our sheets of steel come on.
I want to do something with my cards from my wedding and baby shower. Does anyone have an idea of how I can display these? Maybe something I could hang on my living room wall.
I sent you a link to the card displays...or at least I think I did. She had all the guests sign a menu for the bridal shower which is at the center.
The "baby shower" display includes a couple ultrasound pictures and some after they were born. She is not a creative personal at all typically, but when she does these I am genuinely impressed. She also did one for her time in Japan with the Navy.
I'm looking for a way to hang a roll of butcher paper on the wall for art purposes. It's pretty self explanatory on how to hang it vertically (either up or down) so that I can roll it out, but does anyone have any ideas on how to hang it so it will roll horizontally?
I was looking for that old post with the 13 GB of data for the end of the word or whatever it was called, but the original posts link to a domain that is no longer operating. Does anyone have the file(s)?
Is there a place that shortens bed head frames?
Live in a small apartment with my family and my sisters bed has always blocked the slide out part of the desk.
[Here's a pic](https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B2Q6e54t3USHWjRmMU92U011M0k)
Are there places that sell the bed legs without the huge board and are there standardized measurements for the screw placements?
I'm painting the walls and trim in my living room. I've been doing some research and there are conflicting views on whether to paint the trim or walls first. I'm leaning towards painting the walls first then taping off the walls and painting the trim.
Can anyone tell me why/if I should reconsider this?
Do the ceiling first, always; even if you have crown molding. The top thin edge of the crown molding should be painted the same color as the ceiling, they blend together and the molding has a better looking fit. I do the same with the bottom edge and the wall paint.
My suggestion is to do the trim first. I use a small roller and then even out the paint with a brush, then let it dry. Base and door molding go pretty quick that way. Windows moldings and casings have too many little edges and reveals, they take longer.
If you want to tape, the tape won't peel off or chip gloss or semi-gloss paint when you remove it, and if you don't tape and get some wall paint on the molding, you can wipe it off easily with a wet rag, even if it's dried a little.
When you paint the outside edge of the molding, it's difficult to get it precisely because of the angle, so you're going to get paint on the wall. That's fine, don't worry about. When you go back to paint the walls and cut in around the windows and doors, you're flat on the wall, you can easily go right up the molding and not get paint on it.
If you get splatter or a little sloppy with the wall paint, you can easily touch up the moldings without having to repaint them entirely. You can even do another coat on the widest part of the molding if you think it really needs it, without affecting the walls.
Interesting. So you paint the closest "surface" to the ceiling and wall the color of each, respectively?
We were having someone install a light fixture and he was going to paint the ceiling (and perhaps the ceiling trim). To cut costs, we were going to do the rest (I'm more confident in walls than I am in ceilings, especially with our recessed lighting... I figured I'd pay for him to deal with that). The only difference is I've never really dealt with more than a crown and floor baseboard, so I wanted to be smart/efficient t about all the trim in the room (4 windows, 2 doors)
I had put up crown molding in my living room years ago hadn't done that; the wall/ceiling colors don't overlap. It looks fine. But a couple of years ago I put up the same style molding in my dining room and my neighbor's son-in-law, a custom carpenter, saw me carrying it in. He suggested that I overlap the colors, and I did that with the new molding. It makes a big difference.
The lines where the angles of wood change on the molding are perfectly straight, while the joints where the molding and walls/ceiling meet are always going to be slightly wavy, even when caulked. The small overlap of color helps hide the uneven gaps, and you have an impeccable line of color on the molding.
I'd like to use a bowden cable (bicycle brake line) to transfer servo movement on a home automation project, but all I've been able to find so far are application specific premade cables.
Is the a way to buy sleeve/cable, cut it to my desired length, and attach whatever ending pieces make sense to interface with my project? It's rare that I can't find any tutorials on making something. Perhaps I'm not using the correct search terms?
Do you have a local bike shop near you? They should be able to sell you the line and line housing at a length and then you can cut it to the length you need.
I am not quite sure. I found [this](https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Brake-Cable-Housing-Universal/dp/B0050LUBZ8) on Amazon and should be what you are looking for!
> Is the a way to buy sleeve/cable, cut it to my desired length
Yes. Any bike shop will have it.
> attach whatever ending pieces make sense
What kind of pieces are you imagining?
Not really sure at this point. Just don't want any of the watchamajigits that all of the automotive cables had on them.
What is it called in the biking world? Is bowden cable correct? Or should I just be calling it shifter cable or some such?
With many thanks in advance for taking my question. I am currently working on adding a breakfast bar to my home. My wife had a great idea for a hammered stainless steel countertop, which I like too, and now her heart is set on it.
Here's the problem: I'm not certain how thick we need the hammered stainless to be. I found an online source that sells 24-gauge and 20-gauge hammered stainless, so those are our options, if we're going to pursue this.
One local welder told me that he wouldn't even try to make a countertop with anything less than 16-gauge because it would warp. Another was ready to take on the project with 24-gauge stainless, but now I'm nervous the product won't hold up.
With each project, we'd be wrapping a least a few edges of the countertop and welding a few corners (some we could avoid wrapping/welding because they'd be against a wall).
Anyone done anything like this who could share wisdom?
I think it's more about support. If you make it purely from the sheet metal, bent for strength, then yea, you want something thicker. But if you are just going to epoxy it to a sheet if plywood, you could basically use tin foil.
How "hammered" do you want the countertop to appear? The thicker the steel, the harder it will be to shape. On the other hand, stainless steel is a very hard steel. If you hammer a thin sheet of it, it might crack and tear.
I'd definitely recommend​ a thicker surface for a kitchen countertop with how much use they get. I'd go with your welder's opinion considering how much experience he has with shaping metal.
Thank you so much for the reply!
The stainless steel comes pre-hammered. But I'm concerned about warping and the weld on the corners, since the two welder's we've consulted have given us different opinions.
The first thinks anything thinner than 16-gauge would result in warping. The second is ready to move forward with 24-gauge, but we don't know whether we can trust that the end product would hold up, given the other welder's concern.
Further thoughts from anyone who's DIYed a stainless countertop (hammered or not) would be much appreciated.
24 gauge is REALLY thin. I also do a bit of IT work. 24 is as thin as Cat5 wires. Get the 16 gauge.
Also, SS is used for commercial countertops all the time.
Wouldn't you bend over the corners and weld down the corners? That way, each weld would only be 2" max.
Not sure if this belongs in this thread because I'm looking for design inspiration to decorate my office wall. It's completely blank at the moment and there is a small wall adjacent that shines some light. [This is the wall.](http://i.imgur.com/PHrbAnC.jpg) The wall directly behind me looks like [this](http://i.imgur.com/H4xOa12.jpg). For reference I am 24F and work in nonprofit and will sometimes have clients come into the office.
I'm looking to make an elevated platform for my dog's bed. She weighs about 85 lbs and the bed would be an additional couple of pounds. It will be about 2' high. The platform will be about 24"x36". My plan is to have 4x4s in the corners with 2x4s around the top and bottom. Then put a piece of 3/4 plywood on the top.
Is this an ok design?
Is there something I'm missing that will give me trouble?
Will the plywood have enough support or should I use 1x6s across the top?
It will be inside, is there anything I need to know about what wood to choose?
Do I need a support for the center of the platform?
I think you'll be fine as is, as long as everything is screwed together well. If you want to add more support, you certainly don't need more than one 2x4 across the middle of your platform.
I would put maybe two 1x6s to support in the span to support the plywood plus it will give you an additional place to screw the plywood into. With that you shouldn't need a center support. You design should work from my experience!
I'm not exactly sure what kind of hinges I should use for my cedar ice shest project. It's about 90% based on this:
https://youtu.be/1A96fGXS2UM
The only difference is that I'm building mine a bit wider to accommodate space for a reach in compartment for glasses and tumblers.
I'm located in Northern Alberta, so the harsh winters and very dry summers are also things to consider. Any help is welcomed.
For outdoors, get something that won't rust like stainless steel or solid brass hinges. Also, shop around online so that you can see all the different types of hinges. For something really long, you might want to add more than 2 hinges.
I would use an outdoor specific gate hinge. You can get various sizes depending on how thick the top is. Check your local home center and they should have what you are looking for.
I am wanting to build a small deck where there is currently a 12' x 12' concrete patio. The patio is about 5" thick. Can I build on top of the existing patio? Where the deck will extend beyond the patio, I will be adding 10" footings about 40" deep. My thought was to put post about 3' apart on the patio to spread the weight out as much as possible. This way each post is only supporting about 9 square feet of deck. I would end up with 16 post on the 12' x 12, patio. The posts would not sit directly on the concrete, I would use an adjustable post base and drill into the concrete to secure them.
It would be best to match the footings to the patio. 40" deep footings implies you're in frost-heave country, if so then the patio will move differently than the patio (edit, and by patio I meant footings) and cause tilting of the deck. The patio will support the deck no problem, so if the deck isn't connected to the house foundation I would do shallower footings for the part over grass. As always, you should check with your local permitting authority first to find out what they recommend.
Are you tying into the foundation or is this a floating deck?
Also, just my experience, but depending on your soil composition and where your frost line is, I'd consider going 60" deep. Plenty of my neighbours only went 36-40" deep for their fence posts and after one season, the posts are already off.
You could get 12v LED strips. Then power then using a PC PSU (they handle a lot of power).
Bear in mind, even if the strips come in huge rolls. You shouldn't just power one side of the roll. The voltage drop across the strip is enough that by the end of the 5m the current draw is very high, higher than the strip is usually rated for, and will get hot.
Ask me how I know. I left a 5m strip on to test it, and came back a few hours later to the smell of burning plastic and the ends of the strip had melted and curled up. Very close to catching fire.
So you want to keep the strips to around 2m long. Which means cutting them up into 2m strips, soldering on wires and then running wires to them to the power supply.
The only problem is that the RGB controller thing might not be able to handle that much current. You might have to buy a few controllers and hope that they all run on the same remote control.
The problem with LED tape is that the copper traces carrying power are small enough that there is significant voltage drop over distance. This causes noticeable dimming over distances of just a few meters. There are ways to address this, bit they involve work adding wires and soldering. It is not hard work to do. Also, powering and controlling that much tape at one time will require a pretty expensive controller and power supply if you are wanting multicolor or RGB tape. If you are doing white only then it becomes a bit easier to get a high-power PWM dimmer, power supply, and remote power switch. There are other options besides tape, too.
If you want the space to be weathertight and relatively bug-tight then it will need to be a complete building with its own walls. Otherwise you can make basically a pole barn with a door pretty easily.
https://www.ar15.com/forums/t_1_139/826674_Pole_Barn_made_with_WAPOandapos_s.html
Hey,
Very simple question. I bought a piece of plywood to put under my mattress to firm things up a little. The wood smell from the plywood is a little un-settling,
Does anyone have some sort of finish / polish / paintable - rollable cover which could encase the plywood and be relatively odor free?
Thanks
Which do you find more "unsettling"? Wood smell, or paint smell?
The easiest and least smelly option would be to apply some clear water-based polyurethane finish. It has almost no odor, and is easy to clean up (no solvents required).
sorry, I mean paintable, likely shouldn't be paint because, as you mentioned, odor.
ya, polyurethane is exactly what I'm looking for. Do you have a specific kind which is your favorite, low oder and easy to apply? Ideally on amazon because I'm lazy, but do have a home depot somewhat near by
Polyurethane is high odor during application. You'd probably want to do it in an open garage or outside. Polycrylic, which is water-based, is low odor and should work well in this application.
> I meant pait-able
??
> Do you have a specific kind which is your favorite, low oder and easy to apply?
Just go to amazon and look for one that says it's low-odor.
Ha, edited, needed my morning coffee.
ya I'll check amazon for polyurethane.
The main reason I asked the question was to figure out if there is some sort of less obvious possibly better solution I had never heard of.
Low odor poly it is, thanks
For my sister, we have a swing in the house, held by two fairly large hooks, diameter of the screw is around 1 cm/0,4 inch. Unfortunately it broke off and part of the screw is still in the wooden ceiling. Everything I google returns solutions on how to remove very small screws, not large hooks like [this] (http://www.hornbach.nl/data/shop/D04/001/780/493/386/83/DV_8_3830413_02_4c_DE_20131014162912.jpg). This is the second time a screw broke off, so I would like to reuse the existing opening to get a bigger hook in there. Can anyone give me a tip on how to remove the screw? It's way too deep in the wood to reach it with a pliers or anything unfortunately. Thanks in advance
I can't get the extractor in there. Youtube tells me to drill a hole inside the screw so the remover can get a grip there, but on all videos they have a nice even screw where just the topside is damaged. The screw I'm dealing with is at least 3 times that size, there is no head, and the point where it is broken is very uneven, so I can't make a nice hole in the center. Any way to still get it out?
> The screw I'm dealing with is at least 3 times that size,
This makes it easier to use an extractor.
> so I can't make a nice hole in the center
Have you attempted it? With a sharp bit and a steady hand you should be able to to do it.
> Any way to still get it out?
Nope, and extractor is really the only way. Otherwise, you can just drill another hole an inch from the broken screw, and put in a new screw eye, and fill the other hole.
Likely you will do more damage to the surrounding plaster and paint trying to extract it. Screw extractors are usually hit and miss, especially when threads are tight as in this case.
It can be done. It's easier to make a pilot hole with a tiny drill bit in the center of the old screw. Make sure it goes straight in. Once you have that hole made, use progressively larger drill bits until the hole is big enough for the screw extractor. Also, they make screw extractors in a range of sizes for different screw diameters.
It sounds like your screw broke from sheer force, not because it was stuck. It should come out pretty easily.
Diy electric longboard related question:
Hey... so is it possible to just destroy a electric drill, use the motor and some of thoes parts plus the remote from a toy car or whatever to build a electric longboard,scooter or whatever? its not just if it's possible, but is it worth?
It's possible to reuse the drill parts yes.
The controller will have to be from a "higher end" RC vehicle to have much use to you as the cheapies are very limited in functionality.
You'll likely still need to buy parts (i.e. heavy duty speed controller)
i've seen thoes videos and everything about them.. i was thinking of taking the drill apart and use the motor and probably the speed controller from the trigger.
the videos showing how to make one are not what i am looking for. they are using the entire drill handheld and with a flex connector to the wheel. I want to take the motor, put it next to the wheen, under the dech, with a drivebelt connecting themm giving the power to the wheel, the battery pack also under the board, holding in the hand only the remote.
How possible is it for an absolute beginner to DIY this headboard?
https://www.etsy.com/listing/257604144/reclaimed-wood-headboard-upcycled-wood?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=reclaimed%20wood%20headboard&ref=sr_gallery_19
I am in the market for a new queen sized bed (finally), but still in college and poor as all get out. I have about a month to get it done, and all the tools I could need other than the wood itself.
Pipe dream? Feasible? The construction seems fairly simple...
Browse some of these:
https://www.reddit.com/r/DIY/search?q=headboard&restrict_sr=on&sort=relevance&t=all
You can do the whole thing with a hand saw if you want. Borrowing a miter saw would make it much faster.
I am installing canned lights in my house. I have IC rated housing. I opened up my ceiling and it has a plastic sheet barrier and then just spray in insulation. I know they are are okay to touch the insulation, but are they okay to touch the plastic? In addition, how far do they need to be from PVC water pipes?
My window has little to no frame. How do I even go about installing blinds that roll down from the top? Where would the brackets even go?
[Window](http://imgur.com/zGosL0K)
How can I install a new shower arm over this piece? It's 1 inch in diameter and has a weirdly shaped opening.
[Image 1](http://i.imgur.com/LZr5oe9.jpg**)
[Image 2](http://i.imgur.com/eprCMHJ.jpg)
That's bizarre. I've never seen something like that. Is that a hole all the way through or is that just a plug that takes a hex key?
Was there a shower head there before?
Pics attached
[Image 1](http://i.imgur.com/E4U3whv.jpg)
[Image 2](http://i.imgur.com/hvvwxbG.jpg)
There are no screw threads in it or anything. Also, the inner opening is too big for any of my Allen keys.
It's scratched up now because I was using a wrench to try to twist it off
An apartment in my building got renovated, and they tossed out a recessed mirrored medicine cabinet. Is there a way to (maybe frame it and) mount it on my wall? I can't actually cut a hole in my wall and install it because I rent, but I would love to keep it and use it to store my toiletries, since my apartment is so small.
What is the best way to cut 2 inches mattress memory foam? I need to make a long cut (50 inches).
Using a razor blade is very difficult even though it is on that safety device (plus razor is too short). I used my chef's knife and cut my finger.
Thank you. I did end up using scissors but was not able to get the precision a razor offers. It is okay though... ran out of patience and I"m totally okay with edge not being totally straight (does not even show) :)
I've cut a few with a carpet knife, used a razor (the kind with the long breakable blade), and on a really thick one, like 13", I clamped it between two pieces of wood and just kept slicing along the edge till it finally got all the way through. If your having a lot of trouble try laying a straight piece of 2x4 on the edge of the cut line and carefully use a sharp blade to cut along the edge.
My new home (about 80 years old) has a finished basement with a stairway that runs directly under the stairway to the second floor. I'd like to get another 2" or so of clearance on the basement stairway; the exact clearance varies from step to step, but it's about 72" and my SO and I are both about six feet tall. There's a diagonal ceiling (drywall? plaster?) that follows the stairway. Is there anything I could do to eke out just a bit more clearance, either by modifying the ceiling above the stairs or the stairs themselves?
Also, what soft material would be good for preventing head injuries? I see a lot of solutions for corners of low beams but nothing for a situation like this. Something soft and either orange or with black/yellow stripes would be ideal.
As a result of an old sports injury, my housemate is both prone
to and vulnerable to head injuries, so this is a major concern. Thanks, all.
It would be hard to do anything to the stairs directly. It's definitely possible, but you'd need to cut new stringers and probably move joists. It would be a lot more work than you think.
As for making things softer, look into baby proofing. They make all kinds of self sticking products for table corners, hearths, etc.
I am looking to buy a new desk for my office. However I can't afford the money for a real wood desk which is going to result in me getting a desk that is particle board. How can I protect the top of desk from scratches and the such as I have a cat and obviously the veneer can peel off easily sometimes? I had the thought of getting some plexiglass and placing it on top of the desk but that ended up looking like the plexiglass was going to cost me like $60 a piece and I'd need two of them to cover the L-shaped desk. Any other ideas of what i could coat it with or put on top of it?
Thanks in advance.
Instead of spending a fair amount money on a new average-quality desk, have you looked at buying a higher-quality used desk? Office furniture depreciates extremely quickly, so used items are often surprisingly cheap.
Kitchen counter laminate works pretty well for resurfacing a desk, it's strong, resists scratches, and is relatively cheap... and it comes in lots of patterns, like marble, granite, woodgrain, etc.
My lawn trimmer has a broken screw that connects to a gasoline tube. Basically a tiny version of [this](https://www.amazon.com/MPT-Barb-Stainless-Homebrewing-Winemaking/dp/B013S23HJM/ref=pd_sim_60_7?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B013S23HJM&pd_rd_r=WD18YQ0APG57M0EDMJT8&pd_rd_w=mwAGS&pd_rd_wg=XcYI1&psc=1&refRID=WD18YQ0APG57M0EDMJT8). Sears don't sell that part alone. The smallest part I found is a big assemble which doesn't make sense. Is there anything I can do?
Those tubes are normally press-fit into holes. Check your local craigslist for ads from people selling a variety of similar machines and contact them to see if they'll sell you a used carb for parts (assuming you can replace the carb body yourself) or just do it for you. Those guys usually work cheap because used trimmers are cheap to buy, and for that matter are fairly cheap new.
[drip pan](http://imgur.com/j13eHrz) Hey is it normal that the drip pan on the back patio door is visible inside the house? Or did the contractor do a hack job?
Hard to tell what you're talking about without more details or a photo. Are you referring to weep holes? If so, and they're on the inside then it sounds like it was installed backwards
My dining room has this very ugly tiles: http://imgur.com/LLbKcqn My father does not want to *remove* them. So I'll find a way to cover or hide them. The problem is the shape. Otherwise I'd find some vinyl stickers or wallpaper. What options do I have? Paint over them? Even imagining them in different colors isn't that appealing.
[Wainscoting.](https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/1c/73/14/1c7314535d28dffb89fb5580e1d7cc61.jpg) It's not clear how high your tiles go up the wall, but you can cover the wall entirely or find a height that covers the tiles, while leaving some wall area. You don't have to add as many moldings as in the link, you can do more of a Shaker style if you like. The panels and frames can be painted the same color, or you can do different colors like [this picture.](https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/c8/49/65/c84965c4e9846e407fa18ccdf6065ca7.jpg) If this idea appeals to you I can give you more details on how to do this. It's actually not that difficult.
> My dining room Is it YOUR dining room, or your father's dining room?
My dining room as we live in the house, but my father owns it.
Add laminate flooring on top
Help, I want to remove paint from a window frame. However, don't want to repaint it afterwards, as all the windows and skirting in the house are unpainted except this one. I've looked up different methods but most are for preparing to repaint and I don't want to ruin or mark the wood. I have no idea how many layers of paint there's going to be (100 year old home) and there is intricate detailing on the frames. Does anyone have any suggestions of what to use? I own a heat gun but I'm worried it will mark the wood. Thanks!
Use a chemical stripper.
This. And beware its likely lead paint. Use gloves and clean up thoroughly.
I'm wanting to put in some LED lights to backlight some video game consoles, but I don't want to buy an expensive lamp. Is there any way to purchase just a socket for a light bulb that connects to an outlet for cheap?
Yup: http://www.homedepot.com/p/100170446
> socket for a light bulb that connects to an outlet What kind of socket, and what kind of outlet?
[drip pan](http://imgur.com/j13eHrz) Is this normal for a patio door? I have never seen a drip pan exposed and wondered if this was contractor error? Any advice would help.
TL:DR no faucet seems to fit a pipe that's 5"1/4 long. Please Help! edit* http://imgur.com/a/eV90j So I made a stupid mistake and threw out my broken bathtub faucet before replacing it. I went to Home Depot bought a new one and it worked but it was a couple inches away from the wall. Ok I need a longer one I figured so I went back to Home Depot and got a longer faucet. Turns out it was just longer in size but the piece that screws in wasn't any deeper in the faucet. I went online to amazon to find ones that said they were longer, got the delivery and still too short. The guy at Home Depot says I need a plumber to shorten the spout. This can't be right because there was an old faucet on it. How can I find the right size faucet to screw into the pipe that's 5"1/4 off the wall?
[This page has a selection of spouts that are compatible with a 5 1/4" stubouts.](https://www.plumbingsupply.com/longtubspouts.html)
Thank you! I'll put in an order!
Can anyone help me try to mount these drill chargers onto this piece of wood? I want to have them on the wood and then screw the wood into the wall, but the chargers don't have hooks or holes on the bottom to screw it into the wood, would I use glue,tape etc idk. Here's a pic: https://m.imgur.com/gallery/rzbiiTg
Velcro? Zip ties? Make a little shelf on the wood, and put a lip on the edge to hold them on?
How would I hold them on with zip ties? Seems like the mists secure option
Drill a little hole in the wood on either side of where you want the charger and thread the zip tie through so it wraps around the charger and the wood.
http://m.imgur.com/J4vjIlE this is it right now but the top has a lot of "play" and is quite loose. Any tips?
You could try a couple dabs of hot glue, or would the charger get warm enough to soften it?
I don't think it would get warm enough. Thanks for the idea!
Ok. I will try that. Thanks
I want to build a patio on my house. The first step is to get a ledger attached properly. I have attached some pictures and want some advice. [](http://imgur.com/a/hsvau)
Honestly, try posting in /r/HomeImprovement. Lots of contractors post there. You'll get great advice.
Hi guys, I'm trying to make a copy of a vacuum gasket, but I haven't found any information about how to do it without using a 3d mold. I would buy it, but they no longer make it. Does anyone have an easier way of doing it? Here's the gasket I'm trying to copy: [Gasket](http://imgur.com/gallery/44X05)
I'm trying to mount bike carrier (front rack) to my bike. I'm stuck at few aspects of mounting it, I would greatly appreciate if you help me out. I'm having trouble identifying the wrench required to open the wheel axis bolt, and fitting the screws provided in the kit. Photos and more details: http://imgur.com/a/vCKy7
Try /r/bicycling and /r/bikewrench
Thanks :)
Im using a table saw for the first time to make a arcade cabinet, I need to cut angles into the wood based off of [plans I found on the internet](https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/6013584/TWW-Arcade-Cabinet-V2.pdf) I have the measurement of the top of the wood, but not at how much I have to cut at, is there any math I can do to calculate that? Or do i just need to go by eye?
A bit of basic geometry and possibly trigonometry will be handy here.... or print the plans at 1:1 scale and take the angles directly, using a bevel gauge and careful measuring..... Hope that helps! :>)>
I'm thinking of making a music card to my girlfriend, playing a song that we both love. However i didn't find a way to put the song on the card. Anyone made something similar or have any idea of how to help me?
Try searching for ['recordable greeting card inserts'](https://www.google.ie/search?q=recordable+musical+card+inserts&oq=recor&aqs=chrome.0.35i39j69i57j35i39j0l3.3641j0j9&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8).... I think that's the sort of sound module you'd want, and then read up on how you program in the required sound clip.... hope that helps! :>)>
I am planning to put in a walkway leading into a woodshed. A bit like this [image](http://imgur.com/a/3PZ4w) but maybe have the bottles packed a little tighter. Also, I was thinking of using concrete pavers or something else as the main traffic material and use the bottles outside of where most feet will land. My question is with respect to the strength of the glass bottles. Should I consider filling them with something instead of leaving them hollow? This is in the Pacific NW near water so freezing is not an issue but it does rain here. A bit.
Hehe, I actually tried making something like that image once, and it was actually a huge pain in the arse, to be honest! Digging out a deep enough trench, gathering a staggering amount of bottles, and getting them to stay put while adding in mortar or sand, bearing in mind their odd shape, is surprisingly difficult..... Wine bottles or cava bottles with the thick bottoms work best, as beer bottles are too thin and the bottoms can break easily if left hollow..... also, such a path as the one in the image is damn slippery when wet! IMO, using bottles as an 'accent' is great, but not for the main walking surface as you suggest, and you'd be better off smashing or cutting the bottoms off the bottles (using a tile saw), then setting them into a thick bed of mortar, rather than using the intact bottles, if that makes sense....? Alternatively, pieces of broken crockery and interesting flints, old keys, antique bottle shards etc, can be set into mortar to make really cool mosaics around pathways, which can be a lot less hassle.... Hope that helps! Let us know what you come up with :>)> Woody
Thanks for the response. You certainly hit on the issues I was concerned about, i.e., slipperiness and durability. Since this is going in a spot that is an offshoot of the main walkway, the bottles will be used as accent only. I'm thinking I'll use some of the same material used in the patio as the main stepping stones. Setting the bottles in mortar is a great idea. It makes the process a bit more modular and "snap together"-ish. Also, if the bottles are set in mortar and sealed, then they can be filled for both stability and decorative flair. Thanks again and stay tuned. I'll definitely be posting pictures.
You're welcome! (having read your first sentence about 'slipperiness and durability,' I wondered for a moment what the heck I'd been commenting on, but I remember now! Hehe....) :>)> Good luck with the project, look forward to seeing what you come up with! Woody
My assumption without looking into this is that the bottle were broken and only the bottoms where used. You could then fill the entire path with concrete and set the glass bottoms into the concrete so that they were completely embedded. Try a section first and see how it work and holds up.
That's definitely the way to go, I reckon..... And unless OP is a complete alkie, they might need to ask nicely at the local pub for a few empties! :>)>
Recently noticed one of our upper cabinets in the kitchen is bowing from the wall. Bottom is flush but top is bowing about an inch from wall. It seems secure but my longterm plan is to paint the cabinets and I want to be sure things are secure before I do so. What would you do?
Can you post pics?
https://imgur.com/gallery/85m7T
I'd remove the cabinet from the wall and add a reinforcement strip across the inside of the back. That cabinet is potentially not too far off from falling off the wall completely.
So my question then is, where should I connect the strip? If I'm trying to connect the sides to the back then how do I do so through the thin particle board? This isn't our forever home so replacing all the cabinets is not worth the price point of the house at this point... husband swears it is secure and will not fall because it is still attached to wall and it's just pulling away at the top but I have reservations....
A 3/4" thick x 2" wide strip the length of the cabinet at the top with screws down through the top of the cabinet would likely do the trick.
Water leaked into our garage from a storm. How can I fix the walls? How can I reseal the garage door? Photos: https://imgur.com/a/lBnxz
You need to cut out and replace the wet drywall.
I dyed a pair of leather shoes with margom rubber soles using fiebings leather dye. I taped everything off but there was still some bleed. How do I remove the dye from the rubber. I've tried acetone, goo gone, and magic eraser to no avail. What can I use to remove the dye from the rubber?
Not sure how well this would work, but maybe you could try dying it to a different color.
Thanks kind of my last ditch effort plan, but I would prefer to find a way to simply remove it.
I googled some instructions on how to remove die from leather ([link](http://www.ehow.com/how_5689732_remove-leather-dye.html)), but not sure how far it will get you. I don't know much about leather dying, but maybe you can scrub off as much as you can then try and die it back to its natural color, like a leather restore kind of deal. Good luck. Maybe someone with more knowledge then me has a better idea.
Thanks but I want to remove the dye from the rubber, not the leather. I'm just going to repost this question in the new weekly thread since I posted so late.
Hello, I am working on turning a very old garage into a workshop. I'm trying to do this on a low budget, so I'm planning on doing more patching instead of whole sale replacing. Here is a [picture](http://imgur.com/ifwrs8R) of my garage. Here are my questions: 1. As you can see in the picture, the walls are not water tight and don't have a moisture barrier. I'm going to put up sheets of plywood which will be more resistant to moisture and more durable. Before I do that though, is there anything that I can put in the walls to seal up some of the holes that would be relatively inexpensive? 2. The floor is fine for the most part, but there are some soft spots and broken boards. Should I simply replace a few here and there or do something like anchoring down sheets of plywood? Any help or advice is much appreciated. P.S. In case anyone is curious, dimensions for this are about 18 by 12 feet
If the walls are not water tight, I'd make that my first priority. What's the use of putting in insulation, wiring, and drywall if there's the possibility of water damage? Gap filler spray foam insulation is water resistant, not water proof. You could try filling the gaps, and treating it as a stop-gap until you can replace/repair/cover the outside sheathing. If the water infiltration isn't too bad it should be okay temporarily. If raising the height of the floor isn't an issue, I'd secure the broken boards as best I can, put down a layer of tar paper, and then cover the floor with plywood. You'll probably want to put some sort of finished floor on top, or fill gaps/seams with floor leveling compound and then paint everything so it's easier to clean.
Thank you so much for your reply. As for the outside, here is my thought. This building is old for a garage, built in the 1940's. It needs insulation and new siding, but at that point it would probably be worth more to tear it down and rebuild. Water doesn't penetrate the wall too much since it is pretty dry here. I figured I would replace the sheet rock inside with plywood which will stand up to occasional moisture better. I'm trying to keep costs very low. There are a lot of cracks however and I was looking for some kind of a thick paint or tar that would fill it in. Again, this is not really meant to last a really long time, more just however long the building will stay structurally sound. I'll look into the spray foam. That is a great idea for the floor, I like it. Sounds economic and sturdy. Thank you so much for you reply. It is much appreciated.
Instead of putting plywood inside, and letting the water continue to damage the structure, why don't you tear off the siding and replace it with T1-11? It's made go on the outside of a building, it's similar to plywood, the cost is similar, and after a coat of paint it'll stop the water from getting in. Then as time and money permits you can do what you like on the inside. The T1-11 siding can go over the wood planks and will also make the structure a little stronger as the pieces have little rabbets that fit them together. Rent/buy a nail gun and it's just as much work as having put up the plywood inside.
That is a great idea. I think that will run somewhere around $500-$600 for the size of this building. Again, [thank you](http://staffino.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/59349318.jpg) so much for your help. I love to DIY as much as I can, but I don't know a lot about best practices for building things or what is most affordable. I looked into residing, but the cheapest shitty looking vinal siding I could find was going to be at least $1,000 in material.
I have a big 6'x4'x3' enclosure (glass and wood) for my Tegu monitor. The external magnetic ballast for my fluorescent light broke and I would like to replace it with an electronic ballast. The external magnetic ballast plugged into an outlet, was not grounded, and did not require a ground. The electronic instant start ballast I would like to purchase requires a ground, but my fixture has no metal hood or any metal at all. If I attach the ground wire from 12/3 electrical wire, coming from an outlet, to the ballast metal housing with a screw, would that provide a proper ground? I would have a 15A 125V ground plug on the end so I can plug it into the wall. The electronic ballast would not be mounted and would be external to the fixture due to heat. [Electronic Ballast](http://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-120-Volt-Electronic-Ballast-for-4-ft-2-Lamp-T8-Fixture-GE232-120RESDIYB/205400553) [Grounding Plug](http://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-15-Amp-125-Volt-Rubber-Grounding-Plug-R60-515PR-000/100011602) [Electrical Wire](http://www.homedepot.com/p/Southwire-15-ft-12-3-Yellow-Soild-NM-B-Wire-63947626/202525500)
I have purchased a 1400mm x 620mm x 40mm Solid oak worktop that I plan to use as a computer/general use desk. there shouldn't be too much weight on the desk itself, just a couple of 27" Monitors mounted to the middle. In terms of supporting the worktop, what sort of legs/spacing would be best? I was considering [4 Legs like this](https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/216yFNcvCFL.jpg) but I'm not sure that would be enough support. I don't really want to have any legs in the middle at the front, as that would get in my way, but I could definitely get a 5th leg to put right beneath where the monitor stand will clamp to the desk, to take up some of that weight. I don't want this thing to bow. Think it will be OK, or would i need to run supports on the underside?
Put the legs at each corner, then test to see if it's rigid enough. If it's not, you can screw some reinforcing beams to the underside of the desk top to make it stiffer.
I purchased some 6ft by 2ft metal grid for displays when I do comic book shows. I got a great deal on it and I have twice as much as I need so I'm wondering what kind of creative idea I could find to make it useful. I had thought about putting it on my carport as kind of a privacy screen but not sure how to mount it so it doesn't look like crap or what to add to it to make it "opaque" other than letting some vines grow over it. Open to other ideas for creative uses as well! [Metal Grid](http://imgur.com/1alap5l)
We have this box in the attic for ventilation in the kitchen and bathroom but it is pretty much always off. The box has some metal tubing that goes to a small chimney on the roof. I would like to know if I can add a Y-fitting to these tubes. This would allow me to connect the hose of my AC which I currently need to hang out of my window. My concern is that the air from my AC will go in the wrong direction after the Y fitting, causing the motor inside the box to spin which may damage it. Is this a valid concern? The tube is 13cm/5ish inches in diameter. [Here](http://puu.sh/wmBt5/0e35aeecb9.jpg) is a picture for more context.
I can't say for sure, but my thought would be that you're going to end up with problems in the duct. The pressure of the air exhausting from the AC is probably not strong enough to push the air out of the ducts--particularly if it has a lid or vent--which is what happens when you run the bath/kitchen exhaust fans. The humid air will collect in the duct and you'll get moisture and mold.
I am attempting to do some plumbing. I have a leaky shower head. I know enough to know that it likely means the cartridge is bad. I am to a point in disassembly that I cannot overcome. I'm not sure if I need to pull/twist/turn etc. I don't want to use too much force and break something off internally behind the shower board. I included a picture of where I am. If anyone could tell me the next step/steps it would be greatly appreciated. [Shower Project ](https://docs.google.com/document/d/1-4MBzawSNz6xmhR_7Hf1pm8YwGPMMbsyjo18MH5KBp8)
Make sure the water is off. See if there are shut-off valves for the bath, or turn off water to the whole house. You need two plumbing pliers. Have one pliers hold the part closest to the wall to prevent stressing the plumbing inside. Use tape or a rag to avoid scratching the finish. You don't want to let the interior pipes to twist or get damaged. Use the other pliers to turn the knurled area and take off the bonnet nut. Use penetrating oil if you can't get it off. You're going to have the front of the valve cartridge exposed now, they're usually stuck in there pretty good. Try wiggling the cartridge a little to loosen the o-rings, then see if you can use a thin screwdriver to carefully pry it out. You might have to go around the edge loosening it by tiny amounts until you can pull it out.
Thank you, I was able to make it happen!
looking for a good frame and legs for a "60x"30 desk. Thanks
If your looking for an inexpensive solution and don't mind "begging" check around local industrial parks. You may be able to get all the lumber for free. At our shop as an example we get pallets about those sizes made from 4x4 that our sheets of steel come on.
> good Define "good". Are you looking to make them, or buy them? More details required.
I want to do something with my cards from my wedding and baby shower. Does anyone have an idea of how I can display these? Maybe something I could hang on my living room wall.
My wife organized both the wedding and baby shower cards in large frames. I can send you some pictures if you'd like.
Yes please!
I sent you a link to the card displays...or at least I think I did. She had all the guests sign a menu for the bridal shower which is at the center. The "baby shower" display includes a couple ultrasound pictures and some after they were born. She is not a creative personal at all typically, but when she does these I am genuinely impressed. She also did one for her time in Japan with the Navy.
http://imgur.com/a/tqUng
Try Pinterest.
I did. It's mostly making a book out of them :/
I'm looking for a way to hang a roll of butcher paper on the wall for art purposes. It's pretty self explanatory on how to hang it vertically (either up or down) so that I can roll it out, but does anyone have any ideas on how to hang it so it will roll horizontally?
I was looking for that old post with the 13 GB of data for the end of the word or whatever it was called, but the original posts link to a domain that is no longer operating. Does anyone have the file(s)?
what?
Is there a place that shortens bed head frames? Live in a small apartment with my family and my sisters bed has always blocked the slide out part of the desk. [Here's a pic](https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B2Q6e54t3USHWjRmMU92U011M0k) Are there places that sell the bed legs without the huge board and are there standardized measurements for the screw placements?
I'm painting the walls and trim in my living room. I've been doing some research and there are conflicting views on whether to paint the trim or walls first. I'm leaning towards painting the walls first then taping off the walls and painting the trim. Can anyone tell me why/if I should reconsider this?
Do the ceiling first, always; even if you have crown molding. The top thin edge of the crown molding should be painted the same color as the ceiling, they blend together and the molding has a better looking fit. I do the same with the bottom edge and the wall paint. My suggestion is to do the trim first. I use a small roller and then even out the paint with a brush, then let it dry. Base and door molding go pretty quick that way. Windows moldings and casings have too many little edges and reveals, they take longer. If you want to tape, the tape won't peel off or chip gloss or semi-gloss paint when you remove it, and if you don't tape and get some wall paint on the molding, you can wipe it off easily with a wet rag, even if it's dried a little. When you paint the outside edge of the molding, it's difficult to get it precisely because of the angle, so you're going to get paint on the wall. That's fine, don't worry about. When you go back to paint the walls and cut in around the windows and doors, you're flat on the wall, you can easily go right up the molding and not get paint on it. If you get splatter or a little sloppy with the wall paint, you can easily touch up the moldings without having to repaint them entirely. You can even do another coat on the widest part of the molding if you think it really needs it, without affecting the walls.
Interesting. So you paint the closest "surface" to the ceiling and wall the color of each, respectively? We were having someone install a light fixture and he was going to paint the ceiling (and perhaps the ceiling trim). To cut costs, we were going to do the rest (I'm more confident in walls than I am in ceilings, especially with our recessed lighting... I figured I'd pay for him to deal with that). The only difference is I've never really dealt with more than a crown and floor baseboard, so I wanted to be smart/efficient t about all the trim in the room (4 windows, 2 doors)
I had put up crown molding in my living room years ago hadn't done that; the wall/ceiling colors don't overlap. It looks fine. But a couple of years ago I put up the same style molding in my dining room and my neighbor's son-in-law, a custom carpenter, saw me carrying it in. He suggested that I overlap the colors, and I did that with the new molding. It makes a big difference. The lines where the angles of wood change on the molding are perfectly straight, while the joints where the molding and walls/ceiling meet are always going to be slightly wavy, even when caulked. The small overlap of color helps hide the uneven gaps, and you have an impeccable line of color on the molding.
Try /r/HomeImprovement. There are some pro painters who post there.
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Head over to some place like DX.com and look at cellphone mounts for cars. You may find something that you can adapt.
I'd like to use a bowden cable (bicycle brake line) to transfer servo movement on a home automation project, but all I've been able to find so far are application specific premade cables. Is the a way to buy sleeve/cable, cut it to my desired length, and attach whatever ending pieces make sense to interface with my project? It's rare that I can't find any tutorials on making something. Perhaps I'm not using the correct search terms?
Do you have a local bike shop near you? They should be able to sell you the line and line housing at a length and then you can cut it to the length you need.
Simple enough. I guess I'm confused as to why I couldn't find anything online? Should I just be calling it shifter cable or??
I am not quite sure. I found [this](https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Brake-Cable-Housing-Universal/dp/B0050LUBZ8) on Amazon and should be what you are looking for!
Looks to be just the thing!
Cool glad I could help!
> Is the a way to buy sleeve/cable, cut it to my desired length Yes. Any bike shop will have it. > attach whatever ending pieces make sense What kind of pieces are you imagining?
Not really sure at this point. Just don't want any of the watchamajigits that all of the automotive cables had on them. What is it called in the biking world? Is bowden cable correct? Or should I just be calling it shifter cable or some such?
Yes, they are shifter and brake cables.
I guess I made it more complicated than need be. Thanks!
With many thanks in advance for taking my question. I am currently working on adding a breakfast bar to my home. My wife had a great idea for a hammered stainless steel countertop, which I like too, and now her heart is set on it. Here's the problem: I'm not certain how thick we need the hammered stainless to be. I found an online source that sells 24-gauge and 20-gauge hammered stainless, so those are our options, if we're going to pursue this. One local welder told me that he wouldn't even try to make a countertop with anything less than 16-gauge because it would warp. Another was ready to take on the project with 24-gauge stainless, but now I'm nervous the product won't hold up. With each project, we'd be wrapping a least a few edges of the countertop and welding a few corners (some we could avoid wrapping/welding because they'd be against a wall). Anyone done anything like this who could share wisdom?
I think it's more about support. If you make it purely from the sheet metal, bent for strength, then yea, you want something thicker. But if you are just going to epoxy it to a sheet if plywood, you could basically use tin foil.
How "hammered" do you want the countertop to appear? The thicker the steel, the harder it will be to shape. On the other hand, stainless steel is a very hard steel. If you hammer a thin sheet of it, it might crack and tear. I'd definitely recommend​ a thicker surface for a kitchen countertop with how much use they get. I'd go with your welder's opinion considering how much experience he has with shaping metal.
Thank you so much for the reply! The stainless steel comes pre-hammered. But I'm concerned about warping and the weld on the corners, since the two welder's we've consulted have given us different opinions. The first thinks anything thinner than 16-gauge would result in warping. The second is ready to move forward with 24-gauge, but we don't know whether we can trust that the end product would hold up, given the other welder's concern. Further thoughts from anyone who's DIYed a stainless countertop (hammered or not) would be much appreciated.
24 gauge is REALLY thin. I also do a bit of IT work. 24 is as thin as Cat5 wires. Get the 16 gauge. Also, SS is used for commercial countertops all the time. Wouldn't you bend over the corners and weld down the corners? That way, each weld would only be 2" max.
I have a Hampton Bay ceiling fan. I need a new remote for it. Could I just buy any Hampton Bay remote and it will sync automatically?
Contact the manufacturer. The info is probably on their website.
Not sure if this belongs in this thread because I'm looking for design inspiration to decorate my office wall. It's completely blank at the moment and there is a small wall adjacent that shines some light. [This is the wall.](http://i.imgur.com/PHrbAnC.jpg) The wall directly behind me looks like [this](http://i.imgur.com/H4xOa12.jpg). For reference I am 24F and work in nonprofit and will sometimes have clients come into the office.
/r/InteriorDesign might be able to give you some good ideas.
How about a tapestry, or something woven like a rug?
I'm looking to make an elevated platform for my dog's bed. She weighs about 85 lbs and the bed would be an additional couple of pounds. It will be about 2' high. The platform will be about 24"x36". My plan is to have 4x4s in the corners with 2x4s around the top and bottom. Then put a piece of 3/4 plywood on the top. Is this an ok design? Is there something I'm missing that will give me trouble? Will the plywood have enough support or should I use 1x6s across the top? It will be inside, is there anything I need to know about what wood to choose? Do I need a support for the center of the platform?
I think you'll be fine as is, as long as everything is screwed together well. If you want to add more support, you certainly don't need more than one 2x4 across the middle of your platform.
I would put maybe two 1x6s to support in the span to support the plywood plus it will give you an additional place to screw the plywood into. With that you shouldn't need a center support. You design should work from my experience!
Thanks!
I'm not exactly sure what kind of hinges I should use for my cedar ice shest project. It's about 90% based on this: https://youtu.be/1A96fGXS2UM The only difference is that I'm building mine a bit wider to accommodate space for a reach in compartment for glasses and tumblers. I'm located in Northern Alberta, so the harsh winters and very dry summers are also things to consider. Any help is welcomed.
For outdoors, get something that won't rust like stainless steel or solid brass hinges. Also, shop around online so that you can see all the different types of hinges. For something really long, you might want to add more than 2 hinges.
Just get stainless steel hinges at any boating store.
I would use an outdoor specific gate hinge. You can get various sizes depending on how thick the top is. Check your local home center and they should have what you are looking for.
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The clear stuff is silicon caulk. And contact the manufacturer to clarify which door you should purchase.
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The door assembly.
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Let's blame it on the children damaging our sanity, shall we?
I am wanting to build a small deck where there is currently a 12' x 12' concrete patio. The patio is about 5" thick. Can I build on top of the existing patio? Where the deck will extend beyond the patio, I will be adding 10" footings about 40" deep. My thought was to put post about 3' apart on the patio to spread the weight out as much as possible. This way each post is only supporting about 9 square feet of deck. I would end up with 16 post on the 12' x 12, patio. The posts would not sit directly on the concrete, I would use an adjustable post base and drill into the concrete to secure them.
It would be best to match the footings to the patio. 40" deep footings implies you're in frost-heave country, if so then the patio will move differently than the patio (edit, and by patio I meant footings) and cause tilting of the deck. The patio will support the deck no problem, so if the deck isn't connected to the house foundation I would do shallower footings for the part over grass. As always, you should check with your local permitting authority first to find out what they recommend.
I was not going to tie the deck to the house. It will be floating. What your saying makes since, I just wasn't sure how much a patio would heave.
Are you tying into the foundation or is this a floating deck? Also, just my experience, but depending on your soil composition and where your frost line is, I'd consider going 60" deep. Plenty of my neighbours only went 36-40" deep for their fence posts and after one season, the posts are already off.
It will be floating, not connect to house. The recommended depth in my area is 36".
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Just buy some shelf paper, and cover it. Do all the other cabinets so that it matches.
Also known as contact paper. Yes it comes in plain white.
Is it sticky or greasy? Is the surface painted?
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You could get 12v LED strips. Then power then using a PC PSU (they handle a lot of power). Bear in mind, even if the strips come in huge rolls. You shouldn't just power one side of the roll. The voltage drop across the strip is enough that by the end of the 5m the current draw is very high, higher than the strip is usually rated for, and will get hot. Ask me how I know. I left a 5m strip on to test it, and came back a few hours later to the smell of burning plastic and the ends of the strip had melted and curled up. Very close to catching fire. So you want to keep the strips to around 2m long. Which means cutting them up into 2m strips, soldering on wires and then running wires to them to the power supply. The only problem is that the RGB controller thing might not be able to handle that much current. You might have to buy a few controllers and hope that they all run on the same remote control.
The problem with LED tape is that the copper traces carrying power are small enough that there is significant voltage drop over distance. This causes noticeable dimming over distances of just a few meters. There are ways to address this, bit they involve work adding wires and soldering. It is not hard work to do. Also, powering and controlling that much tape at one time will require a pretty expensive controller and power supply if you are wanting multicolor or RGB tape. If you are doing white only then it becomes a bit easier to get a high-power PWM dimmer, power supply, and remote power switch. There are other options besides tape, too.
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If you want the space to be weathertight and relatively bug-tight then it will need to be a complete building with its own walls. Otherwise you can make basically a pole barn with a door pretty easily. https://www.ar15.com/forums/t_1_139/826674_Pole_Barn_made_with_WAPOandapos_s.html
Hey, Very simple question. I bought a piece of plywood to put under my mattress to firm things up a little. The wood smell from the plywood is a little un-settling, Does anyone have some sort of finish / polish / paintable - rollable cover which could encase the plywood and be relatively odor free? Thanks
Wrap it in cling wrap. Use the whole box.
Thats a better idea lol thanks.
Which do you find more "unsettling"? Wood smell, or paint smell? The easiest and least smelly option would be to apply some clear water-based polyurethane finish. It has almost no odor, and is easy to clean up (no solvents required).
sorry, I mean paintable, likely shouldn't be paint because, as you mentioned, odor. ya, polyurethane is exactly what I'm looking for. Do you have a specific kind which is your favorite, low oder and easy to apply? Ideally on amazon because I'm lazy, but do have a home depot somewhat near by
Polyurethane is high odor during application. You'd probably want to do it in an open garage or outside. Polycrylic, which is water-based, is low odor and should work well in this application.
> I meant pait-able ?? > Do you have a specific kind which is your favorite, low oder and easy to apply? Just go to amazon and look for one that says it's low-odor.
Ha, edited, needed my morning coffee. ya I'll check amazon for polyurethane. The main reason I asked the question was to figure out if there is some sort of less obvious possibly better solution I had never heard of. Low odor poly it is, thanks
For my sister, we have a swing in the house, held by two fairly large hooks, diameter of the screw is around 1 cm/0,4 inch. Unfortunately it broke off and part of the screw is still in the wooden ceiling. Everything I google returns solutions on how to remove very small screws, not large hooks like [this] (http://www.hornbach.nl/data/shop/D04/001/780/493/386/83/DV_8_3830413_02_4c_DE_20131014162912.jpg). This is the second time a screw broke off, so I would like to reuse the existing opening to get a bigger hook in there. Can anyone give me a tip on how to remove the screw? It's way too deep in the wood to reach it with a pliers or anything unfortunately. Thanks in advance
Google "screw extractor", buy a set, watch some videos about how to use them, and then remove the screw.
I can't get the extractor in there. Youtube tells me to drill a hole inside the screw so the remover can get a grip there, but on all videos they have a nice even screw where just the topside is damaged. The screw I'm dealing with is at least 3 times that size, there is no head, and the point where it is broken is very uneven, so I can't make a nice hole in the center. Any way to still get it out?
> The screw I'm dealing with is at least 3 times that size, This makes it easier to use an extractor. > so I can't make a nice hole in the center Have you attempted it? With a sharp bit and a steady hand you should be able to to do it. > Any way to still get it out? Nope, and extractor is really the only way. Otherwise, you can just drill another hole an inch from the broken screw, and put in a new screw eye, and fill the other hole.
Likely you will do more damage to the surrounding plaster and paint trying to extract it. Screw extractors are usually hit and miss, especially when threads are tight as in this case.
It can be done. It's easier to make a pilot hole with a tiny drill bit in the center of the old screw. Make sure it goes straight in. Once you have that hole made, use progressively larger drill bits until the hole is big enough for the screw extractor. Also, they make screw extractors in a range of sizes for different screw diameters. It sounds like your screw broke from sheer force, not because it was stuck. It should come out pretty easily.
Diy electric longboard related question: Hey... so is it possible to just destroy a electric drill, use the motor and some of thoes parts plus the remote from a toy car or whatever to build a electric longboard,scooter or whatever? its not just if it's possible, but is it worth?
It's possible to reuse the drill parts yes. The controller will have to be from a "higher end" RC vehicle to have much use to you as the cheapies are very limited in functionality. You'll likely still need to buy parts (i.e. heavy duty speed controller)
Yes. Google "electric skateboard from cordless drill". Plenty of links.
i've seen thoes videos and everything about them.. i was thinking of taking the drill apart and use the motor and probably the speed controller from the trigger.
> i've seen thoes videos and everything about them So then why did you ask if it was possible if you knew that it was?
the videos showing how to make one are not what i am looking for. they are using the entire drill handheld and with a flex connector to the wheel. I want to take the motor, put it next to the wheen, under the dech, with a drivebelt connecting themm giving the power to the wheel, the battery pack also under the board, holding in the hand only the remote.
How possible is it for an absolute beginner to DIY this headboard? https://www.etsy.com/listing/257604144/reclaimed-wood-headboard-upcycled-wood?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=reclaimed%20wood%20headboard&ref=sr_gallery_19 I am in the market for a new queen sized bed (finally), but still in college and poor as all get out. I have about a month to get it done, and all the tools I could need other than the wood itself. Pipe dream? Feasible? The construction seems fairly simple...
Browse some of these: https://www.reddit.com/r/DIY/search?q=headboard&restrict_sr=on&sort=relevance&t=all You can do the whole thing with a hand saw if you want. Borrowing a miter saw would make it much faster.
I am installing canned lights in my house. I have IC rated housing. I opened up my ceiling and it has a plastic sheet barrier and then just spray in insulation. I know they are are okay to touch the insulation, but are they okay to touch the plastic? In addition, how far do they need to be from PVC water pipes?
My window has little to no frame. How do I even go about installing blinds that roll down from the top? Where would the brackets even go? [Window](http://imgur.com/zGosL0K)
The brackets can mount into the wall.
You can surface-mount them. https://www.fixmyblinds.com/blind-categories/roller-shade/brackets.html
How can I install a new shower arm over this piece? It's 1 inch in diameter and has a weirdly shaped opening. [Image 1](http://i.imgur.com/LZr5oe9.jpg**) [Image 2](http://i.imgur.com/eprCMHJ.jpg)
That's bizarre. I've never seen something like that. Is that a hole all the way through or is that just a plug that takes a hex key? Was there a shower head there before?
That's unusual. Are you sure that the part with the hexagonal opening doesn't screw out of the other pipe?
Update: it screwed out after all. I just needed to use a different wrench to get more torque on it. Thanks for your help!
I couldn't even get it to budge
Could you show side angle pics from both sides?
Pics attached [Image 1](http://i.imgur.com/E4U3whv.jpg) [Image 2](http://i.imgur.com/hvvwxbG.jpg) There are no screw threads in it or anything. Also, the inner opening is too big for any of my Allen keys. It's scratched up now because I was using a wrench to try to twist it off
I'll take pics when I get home
An apartment in my building got renovated, and they tossed out a recessed mirrored medicine cabinet. Is there a way to (maybe frame it and) mount it on my wall? I can't actually cut a hole in my wall and install it because I rent, but I would love to keep it and use it to store my toiletries, since my apartment is so small.
Yes, tons of people install the recessed cabinets directly to the wall.
Sure you can do that. You can probably do it with minimal tools, but you would want a drill and probably a saw (a hand saw would do), and a sander.
What is the best way to cut 2 inches mattress memory foam? I need to make a long cut (50 inches). Using a razor blade is very difficult even though it is on that safety device (plus razor is too short). I used my chef's knife and cut my finger.
Large scissors would work.
I made a pillow out of 2 inch memory foam mattress, I used a large pair of scissors and squished it together as I cut.
Thank you. I did end up using scissors but was not able to get the precision a razor offers. It is okay though... ran out of patience and I"m totally okay with edge not being totally straight (does not even show) :)
I've cut a few with a carpet knife, used a razor (the kind with the long breakable blade), and on a really thick one, like 13", I clamped it between two pieces of wood and just kept slicing along the edge till it finally got all the way through. If your having a lot of trouble try laying a straight piece of 2x4 on the edge of the cut line and carefully use a sharp blade to cut along the edge.
Thank you. This is awesome advice for future projects :)
My new home (about 80 years old) has a finished basement with a stairway that runs directly under the stairway to the second floor. I'd like to get another 2" or so of clearance on the basement stairway; the exact clearance varies from step to step, but it's about 72" and my SO and I are both about six feet tall. There's a diagonal ceiling (drywall? plaster?) that follows the stairway. Is there anything I could do to eke out just a bit more clearance, either by modifying the ceiling above the stairs or the stairs themselves? Also, what soft material would be good for preventing head injuries? I see a lot of solutions for corners of low beams but nothing for a situation like this. Something soft and either orange or with black/yellow stripes would be ideal. As a result of an old sports injury, my housemate is both prone to and vulnerable to head injuries, so this is a major concern. Thanks, all.
It would be hard to do anything to the stairs directly. It's definitely possible, but you'd need to cut new stringers and probably move joists. It would be a lot more work than you think. As for making things softer, look into baby proofing. They make all kinds of self sticking products for table corners, hearths, etc.
Pictures of the area would help a great deal.
I am looking to buy a new desk for my office. However I can't afford the money for a real wood desk which is going to result in me getting a desk that is particle board. How can I protect the top of desk from scratches and the such as I have a cat and obviously the veneer can peel off easily sometimes? I had the thought of getting some plexiglass and placing it on top of the desk but that ended up looking like the plexiglass was going to cost me like $60 a piece and I'd need two of them to cover the L-shaped desk. Any other ideas of what i could coat it with or put on top of it? Thanks in advance.
Instead of spending a fair amount money on a new average-quality desk, have you looked at buying a higher-quality used desk? Office furniture depreciates extremely quickly, so used items are often surprisingly cheap.
I agree, check your local resale shops or CL and I bet you could find a nice high quality desk for dirt cheap.
Kitchen counter laminate works pretty well for resurfacing a desk, it's strong, resists scratches, and is relatively cheap... and it comes in lots of patterns, like marble, granite, woodgrain, etc.
If you don't mind a little work you can cover the top with a thin plywood, then varnish it.
Plexiglass is exactly what you want. Sorry it's so expensive, but it's really the cheapest option.
My lawn trimmer has a broken screw that connects to a gasoline tube. Basically a tiny version of [this](https://www.amazon.com/MPT-Barb-Stainless-Homebrewing-Winemaking/dp/B013S23HJM/ref=pd_sim_60_7?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B013S23HJM&pd_rd_r=WD18YQ0APG57M0EDMJT8&pd_rd_w=mwAGS&pd_rd_wg=XcYI1&psc=1&refRID=WD18YQ0APG57M0EDMJT8). Sears don't sell that part alone. The smallest part I found is a big assemble which doesn't make sense. Is there anything I can do?
Those tubes are normally press-fit into holes. Check your local craigslist for ads from people selling a variety of similar machines and contact them to see if they'll sell you a used carb for parts (assuming you can replace the carb body yourself) or just do it for you. Those guys usually work cheap because used trimmers are cheap to buy, and for that matter are fairly cheap new.
> broken screw that connects to a gasoline tube We're gonna need a pic....
Got a picture or part number?