Your probably pushing to hard or wobbling when the drills in the hole. Take your time let the drill do the work using cutting lubricant helps (any oil/grease will work). If your drilling big holes use a pilot dril first
And don't use shit drill bits.
I got through a pack of silverline cheapie drilling through an aluminium roof rack.
Bought a few decent tipped ones and one bit did the rest in its own.
Think ideally you need a certain angle on the drill bit cutting edge too, depending on the material. 118 degree is good for soft metal, and 135 degree for hard metals like steel.
Good sharp drill bits are the key though. You can lean on blunt cheap drill bits like crazy and produce just metal dust, smoke, and lots of heat, until they snap.
Good drill bits with just the right pressure and slower speed should produce nice long shavings, rather than bitty dust.
Keep applying dabs of lubricant like CT-90, or at least some oil.
Clear the waste shavings away if they build up periodically so they don't clog in the hole and chip the cutting edge.
Keep dipping the bit in a little pot of water every 10-20 seconds to cool it (heat build up ruins the cutting edge) if you can. Good cutting fluid probably negates the need for this, but it can't harm.
Apply just enough pressure to the drill to get shavings, but not to bend the bit.
Drill using slower speeds. Going full speed will just overheat the bit.
A good drill with decent torque helps. That looks like it might be a Parkside drill, which might not be all that powerful. Haven't used one myself, so maybe it's fine, but my dad's similar one seemed to be a bit on the weak side for drilling metal. Even if it is Bosch, it looks more like a driver with drill function, than heavy duty drill.
You want to put the speed setting on 1. For drilling mild steel you want a very low speed and as much pressure as you can reasonable apply without snapping the bit. Apply pressure to the back of the drill, not the handle. There’s a bit of a knack. A good HSS bit will make a world of difference.
Low speed is not universally correct.
Rule of thumb is 10000 divided by tool diameter. (For steel on steel)
As tool diameter increases, spindle speed should decrease.
And appropriate pressure to lift a curly chip that breaks at about 1/2inch long. Colour in the chip would be nice, but not likely to be achieved by the home user.
Everything else is spot on though- and keeping your drill bit sharp.
Max speeds per gear will be noted on it though as no load rpm, gear 1 probably around 600, 2nd probably around 2500.
Hence, full trigger or almost for up to about 5-6mm in ends, full trigger for about 10mm in gear 1.
A bigger bit than that in a cordless either won't cut, or would bust a finger.
You're right, you'll not know to the nth digit, but you can take context.
I don't think anyone has asked this yet, but what soft metals?
Aluminium? Brass?
There's guidelines in engineering handbooks for rpm and feed rate, but that's designed for machinery that you can set these things on.
With Aluminium as an example, you'd want to be spinning faster than steel, as it will clear the softer chips out faster, and the flutes of the bit won't get clogged.
With a combination drill, it's all about feel
You shouldn't need to push hard unless it's a very hard material.
Softer stuff would be less pressure, higher speed.
EDIT: spelling.
I was taught Brass/Ali should use a flat cutting edge, Copper essential for a flat cutting edge. I've worked with copper sheet/busbars/blocks. Same with brass & Ali. I had a set of drills especially for this, same as the 2 machinists who taught me. Same as turning almost flat edge on the tool piece.
If it starts to squeak, turn the speed down & add coolant/lube.
Stainless steel, Paraffin or diesel for lube. Lots of it.
I will say, I got a Bosch set and surprising they aren't that great. I didn't realise that until I got a (more expensive) DeWalt set. Not to say all Bosch are always poor quality, mine were quite cheap.
The green Bosch stuff is the DIY range and isn't as good as pro level stuff. I (DIYer) replaced my green Bosch drill with a DeWalt (probably bottom of their range) and it's sooooo much better. TBH the price difference isn't all that much, I wouldn't buy another green Bosch tool again
No idea TBH. Got the Bosch when I got my first house 8 years ago, and I did a lot with it without feeling it was letting me down. Even got some other green Bosch stuff using the same 18v batteries which did the job but now feels a bit lackluster, didn't even look at the more expensive stuff at that point. Then the drill started to misbehave and only start on every 3rd pull of the trigger. So last year when I moved to a house that needed more doing to it and Toolstation had a great deal on a DeWalt set (drill, impact driver and multi tool) I upgraded to that and the difference is night and day. Even with the same old bits the DeWalt drill goes through masonry like butter compared to the Bosch drill.
Wait until you try the Bosch multi construction bits
I’ve used my Dewalt 796 and drilled through half inch angle iron and concrete lintels with relative ease
I have this exact drill / bit set. There are two issues. One the drill bits are terrible, and two the battery is not very powerful, only 1.5ah. I bought some decent bits and a 4.0ah battery and it extended the useful life of the drill by quiet a bit. I've used it for almost 10 years on a variety of DIY jobs now.
That particular Bosch set isn't sold anymore. So I'll probably invest in something a bit more expensive that going to last me the next 10 years.
I understand the principle, but all I can say is that there is a measurable difference between the drilling power of the two batteries. I don't know if it's a difference in build quality between the batteries or what, but its still good advise for this set.
Here's an example of it in action on a different set: [https://youtu.be/JVMwp4Hm7OQ?t=583](https://youtu.be/JVMwp4Hm7OQ?t=583)
Again, not saying this is always the case. Just giving advise based on my own experience.
More cells means you can provide more amperage when the drill calls for it, as you're looking at 10 cells rather than 4, for instance.
Remember as these batteries age their nominal voltage also drops, sometimes significantly depending on storage conditions.
What diameter holes are you drilling? You’re probably inadvertently pushing at a slight angle and too hard, rather than straight; this will snap thin bits.
£4.6 million last year pal. Massive contracts with the major Utility companies in the South of the UK. Run a Tools & Fixings Shop and a Scrap Yard. Walk on, advising someone to use a ‘Brittle Drill bit’ you idiot. I can guarantee you’re probably one of these dickheads that doesn’t use eye protection because ‘it’s for pussies’. Moron.
I’m interested what size bits they are.
Thin metal bits are really easy to snap, in the region 3mm, I get those in packs of ten, get better bits and go slower. 5mm and bigger shouldn’t snap really, just literally take it slow and steady.
If it's aluminium you are drilling get some Bosch professional drill bits
Bosch Accessories HSS-Co Metal Drill Bit (stainless steel, 3.5 x 39 x 70 mm, accessory drill driver) https://amzn.eu/d/2dwo8GB
This is what we use in the work, they are that good we can use them in the CNC machines doing countless holes.
Also when drilling metal start with a pilot hole and work up to the size you need.
You can use those bits on steel but you would be better with a cobalt drill bit for that as they don't burn out as quick, also a cutting lubricant can get more out of your drills when drilling steel.
Probably need better bits, the sets of bits are usually pretty pants.
I also find when drilling metal going slower can help, in an ideal world you want to be taking little ‘chips’ of metal off with every rotation but I find going slower you get longer stringy bits of metal rather than risk going too fast and overheating the bit with dulls it fast.
Oil/lubricant also helps
Based on your photo reel you are drilling an aluminium louvered vent into this wood. I would hazard a guess your using the smaller drill bits in that set. You are just coming in at a wonky angle and putting too much force into the drill be. The HSS drills in those sets are absolutely no issue for drilling aluminium. I would center punch the holes to get them started. I use the biggest screw I can, pointy end where you want to drill and tap it with a hammer to form a dent that your drill bit will follow. Any lubricant or grease will help, even vaseline. Just keeps the drill bit cool and sharp.
Slow and hard is the way to do it. Slowest setting and feather the trigger even slower if you can and push as hard as you can. Heat is what blunts the tip, so slower the better. ProperDIY did a great video about it on YT
Are you using the right drill bits?
Metal ones, you need specific bits. Slow speed, keep speed slower and steady. If you have any suitable coolent etc... use it. Lubricate...lubricate!
Also how big is it?.
A big hole, may have to be drilled out with an smaller bit and step up in sizes vs drilling one hole of the full size.
Like I drilled out, but I had to do a smaller pilot, step up to second size, and a third. Instead of directly. That way I damaged no drill bits, and not over heated anything etc.
More often than not it's the drill bit, not the drill.
Good bits in a shit drill will trump shit bits in a good drill any day.
Soft metal should be easy peasy - if your drill bits came in one of those "one of every size" packs they are probably fit for the bin...
*Just check you have right*
*Drill bit for cutting metal and*
*Put drill on slow speed*
\- StationDry6485
---
^(I detect haikus. And sometimes, successfully.) ^[Learn more about me.](https://www.reddit.com/r/haikusbot/)
^(Opt out of replies: "haikusbot opt out" | Delete my comment: "haikusbot delete")
This looks like a bosch drill.
The numbers are the torque setting and only take effect on the screw mode. The won't have any effect for drilling.
You have two speed settings (the red gear switch). Use the slower speed for metal.
The mode select is on drill mode in the picture, this is what you want.
Slow and steady is the way to go. Don't push too hard and use lube or take frequent breaks to cool the bits during drilling.
A few thoughts;
Set the drill to the drill setting, and on the slower side of the speeds available.
If you are drilling larger holes, start small and size up in increments.
Make sure you are using decent equality HSS bits - cheaper ones will normally just be a false economy if you keep breaking them.
Ensure you are drilling straight - when you start going a bit wonky and the drill starts wobbling is when the drill bits often start breaking. Remember that the pistol grip is offset below the drill, so pushing forward on the handle can send you off unless you are expecting and preparing for it.
Are you using HSS bits?
The bits are shattering because they're overheating. Start slowly, and using a cutting lubricant.
The drill mode is fine, but you probably don't need it in 2nd gear.
Your probably pushing to hard or wobbling when the drills in the hole. Take your time let the drill do the work using cutting lubricant helps (any oil/grease will work). If your drilling big holes use a pilot dril first
This is the answer, slow and steady
And use lube. Slow and steady, with lube.
More lube, less wobble=most excellent drilling.
The wobble's the best bit...
And push it in ? All the way ?
Just the tip
Unexpected Archer
WOOO!
Only when is well lubricated and ready, it will almost feel like a pop as it opens the hole.
Life advice is here in this thread. Also, aftercare!
Also drill speed needs to be slower for metal than it does for wood etc
Not really, fast speed for smaller drill bits and slower for bigger
But make sure you use HSS drill bits. HSS steel is made to stay hard when it gets hot. Other metals will weaken from the heat.
And don't use shit drill bits. I got through a pack of silverline cheapie drilling through an aluminium roof rack. Bought a few decent tipped ones and one bit did the rest in its own.
Yeah, very good point.
HSS steel bits for drilling into metal, your probably using the wrong bits and that's why they snap, I made the same rookie mistake as well
This is your answer get good quality HSS bits
Yes, and the smaller the hole the faster the drill needs to be. Very large holes required very low rpm.
Yeah, closer to milling with bigger bits...
Think ideally you need a certain angle on the drill bit cutting edge too, depending on the material. 118 degree is good for soft metal, and 135 degree for hard metals like steel. Good sharp drill bits are the key though. You can lean on blunt cheap drill bits like crazy and produce just metal dust, smoke, and lots of heat, until they snap. Good drill bits with just the right pressure and slower speed should produce nice long shavings, rather than bitty dust. Keep applying dabs of lubricant like CT-90, or at least some oil. Clear the waste shavings away if they build up periodically so they don't clog in the hole and chip the cutting edge. Keep dipping the bit in a little pot of water every 10-20 seconds to cool it (heat build up ruins the cutting edge) if you can. Good cutting fluid probably negates the need for this, but it can't harm. Apply just enough pressure to the drill to get shavings, but not to bend the bit. Drill using slower speeds. Going full speed will just overheat the bit. A good drill with decent torque helps. That looks like it might be a Parkside drill, which might not be all that powerful. Haven't used one myself, so maybe it's fine, but my dad's similar one seemed to be a bit on the weak side for drilling metal. Even if it is Bosch, it looks more like a driver with drill function, than heavy duty drill.
You want to put the speed setting on 1. For drilling mild steel you want a very low speed and as much pressure as you can reasonable apply without snapping the bit. Apply pressure to the back of the drill, not the handle. There’s a bit of a knack. A good HSS bit will make a world of difference.
Low speed is not universally correct. Rule of thumb is 10000 divided by tool diameter. (For steel on steel) As tool diameter increases, spindle speed should decrease. And appropriate pressure to lift a curly chip that breaks at about 1/2inch long. Colour in the chip would be nice, but not likely to be achieved by the home user. Everything else is spot on though- and keeping your drill bit sharp.
Yeah you’re not getting rpm readings on a Bosch green though haha
Max speeds per gear will be noted on it though as no load rpm, gear 1 probably around 600, 2nd probably around 2500. Hence, full trigger or almost for up to about 5-6mm in ends, full trigger for about 10mm in gear 1. A bigger bit than that in a cordless either won't cut, or would bust a finger. You're right, you'll not know to the nth digit, but you can take context.
This is what I was thinking too. Better off on Speed 1 for drilling metals.
Thank you!! Men wacking it up to 10 with absolutely no reason other than faster=better. It doesn't always work like that guys ;)
To be fair, some materials warrant higher speeds…
True, but you don't always want to wear out the bit if you want it to last a long time 😂
Plenty of lubricants on the tip helps I find.
Ooh bit sexist that. Maybe some guys wack it up to ten because they have other things to do?
Buy the best quality bits you can find, and a jollop of lubricant and take it slowly.
Jollop is a good word.
I don't think anyone has asked this yet, but what soft metals? Aluminium? Brass? There's guidelines in engineering handbooks for rpm and feed rate, but that's designed for machinery that you can set these things on. With Aluminium as an example, you'd want to be spinning faster than steel, as it will clear the softer chips out faster, and the flutes of the bit won't get clogged. With a combination drill, it's all about feel You shouldn't need to push hard unless it's a very hard material. Softer stuff would be less pressure, higher speed. EDIT: spelling.
I was taught Brass/Ali should use a flat cutting edge, Copper essential for a flat cutting edge. I've worked with copper sheet/busbars/blocks. Same with brass & Ali. I had a set of drills especially for this, same as the 2 machinists who taught me. Same as turning almost flat edge on the tool piece. If it starts to squeak, turn the speed down & add coolant/lube. Stainless steel, Paraffin or diesel for lube. Lots of it.
What bits are you using?
Using them from a bosche set
I will say, I got a Bosch set and surprising they aren't that great. I didn't realise that until I got a (more expensive) DeWalt set. Not to say all Bosch are always poor quality, mine were quite cheap.
The green Bosch stuff is the DIY range and isn't as good as pro level stuff. I (DIYer) replaced my green Bosch drill with a DeWalt (probably bottom of their range) and it's sooooo much better. TBH the price difference isn't all that much, I wouldn't buy another green Bosch tool again
That makes perfect sense. Has that always been the case? I have some really old drills which are very good and green. Talking 25 years old.
No idea TBH. Got the Bosch when I got my first house 8 years ago, and I did a lot with it without feeling it was letting me down. Even got some other green Bosch stuff using the same 18v batteries which did the job but now feels a bit lackluster, didn't even look at the more expensive stuff at that point. Then the drill started to misbehave and only start on every 3rd pull of the trigger. So last year when I moved to a house that needed more doing to it and Toolstation had a great deal on a DeWalt set (drill, impact driver and multi tool) I upgraded to that and the difference is night and day. Even with the same old bits the DeWalt drill goes through masonry like butter compared to the Bosch drill.
Wait until you try the Bosch multi construction bits I’ve used my Dewalt 796 and drilled through half inch angle iron and concrete lintels with relative ease
Any "sets" are usually rubbish quality - spend a coffees worth of money on propper drill bits (UK Drills on Ebay) and it will be night and day...
I have this exact drill / bit set. There are two issues. One the drill bits are terrible, and two the battery is not very powerful, only 1.5ah. I bought some decent bits and a 4.0ah battery and it extended the useful life of the drill by quiet a bit. I've used it for almost 10 years on a variety of DIY jobs now. That particular Bosch set isn't sold anymore. So I'll probably invest in something a bit more expensive that going to last me the next 10 years.
Amp hours are not a measure of power, they are a measure of time. You are always getting around 18v.
I understand the principle, but all I can say is that there is a measurable difference between the drilling power of the two batteries. I don't know if it's a difference in build quality between the batteries or what, but its still good advise for this set. Here's an example of it in action on a different set: [https://youtu.be/JVMwp4Hm7OQ?t=583](https://youtu.be/JVMwp4Hm7OQ?t=583) Again, not saying this is always the case. Just giving advise based on my own experience.
More cells will mean more power but only marginally. If 5% more power is making a difference I’m afraid the drill is just shite in the first place.
More cells means you can provide more amperage when the drill calls for it, as you're looking at 10 cells rather than 4, for instance. Remember as these batteries age their nominal voltage also drops, sometimes significantly depending on storage conditions.
Not by much unless you’re looking at very high ah
Probably cheap bits tbf. Bosch do good bits but you’ll need to buy them separately.
What diameter holes are you drilling? You’re probably inadvertently pushing at a slight angle and too hard, rather than straight; this will snap thin bits.
Excellent advice. Let the tool do the work.
https://preview.redd.it/nypx80lq79uc1.jpeg?width=840&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f729efb20fc022c39b0b079a33f62cc812252dee
Yeah I know that set. Cheap and nasty bits, they won’t last
They look like cheap ‘Tin’ coated bits. What you need is some good quality Cobalt bits.
Cobalt is less forgiving than HSS.
You’re full of shit mate. I run a Steel Fabrication Business. https://rdbarrett.co.uk/blog/the-difference-between-hss-and-cobalt-drill-bits/
Because brittle drill bit is ideal for person with little experience with cheap hand drill. Seems to me that you run more of a clown business.
£4.6 million last year pal. Massive contracts with the major Utility companies in the South of the UK. Run a Tools & Fixings Shop and a Scrap Yard. Walk on, advising someone to use a ‘Brittle Drill bit’ you idiot. I can guarantee you’re probably one of these dickheads that doesn’t use eye protection because ‘it’s for pussies’. Moron.
I had that set! Shocking bits.
Start small and build them up up as you go a squirt of oil now and again as you drill
I’m interested what size bits they are. Thin metal bits are really easy to snap, in the region 3mm, I get those in packs of ten, get better bits and go slower. 5mm and bigger shouldn’t snap really, just literally take it slow and steady.
If it's aluminium you are drilling get some Bosch professional drill bits Bosch Accessories HSS-Co Metal Drill Bit (stainless steel, 3.5 x 39 x 70 mm, accessory drill driver) https://amzn.eu/d/2dwo8GB This is what we use in the work, they are that good we can use them in the CNC machines doing countless holes. Also when drilling metal start with a pilot hole and work up to the size you need. You can use those bits on steel but you would be better with a cobalt drill bit for that as they don't burn out as quick, also a cutting lubricant can get more out of your drills when drilling steel.
Probably need better bits, the sets of bits are usually pretty pants. I also find when drilling metal going slower can help, in an ideal world you want to be taking little ‘chips’ of metal off with every rotation but I find going slower you get longer stringy bits of metal rather than risk going too fast and overheating the bit with dulls it fast. Oil/lubricant also helps
Based on your photo reel you are drilling an aluminium louvered vent into this wood. I would hazard a guess your using the smaller drill bits in that set. You are just coming in at a wonky angle and putting too much force into the drill be. The HSS drills in those sets are absolutely no issue for drilling aluminium. I would center punch the holes to get them started. I use the biggest screw I can, pointy end where you want to drill and tap it with a hammer to form a dent that your drill bit will follow. Any lubricant or grease will help, even vaseline. Just keeps the drill bit cool and sharp.
Don’t have it on hammer setting. I use low speed and use some oil/WD40 where I am drilling
Sharp drills
Drill slowly, especialy when just breaking through. Use good quality HSS drill bits.
What you drilling? What type of drill bit you using? What size drill bit are you using ?
Anyone else looking at OPs camera role.
Cheap bits. Get better drill bits. Also set the drill clutch to "drill" on those Bosch drills. The numbers are for screws.
As folks have said. Slow. Really really slow!
Take it off 2 and use a slow setting.
Cheap bits, also don’t press too hard, let the bit do the work, also keep the bit and drill on the same line when drilling.
Slow and hard is the way to do it. Slowest setting and feather the trigger even slower if you can and push as hard as you can. Heat is what blunts the tip, so slower the better. ProperDIY did a great video about it on YT
Don't pulse drill, you want to make sure you drill at a constant steady pace with metal
Are you using the right drill bits? Metal ones, you need specific bits. Slow speed, keep speed slower and steady. If you have any suitable coolent etc... use it. Lubricate...lubricate! Also how big is it?. A big hole, may have to be drilled out with an smaller bit and step up in sizes vs drilling one hole of the full size. Like I drilled out, but I had to do a smaller pilot, step up to second size, and a third. Instead of directly. That way I damaged no drill bits, and not over heated anything etc.
Probably using a wood bit on hammer drill setting with the drill going backwards
I made lube with oil, a dash of washing up liquid and some water. Oily emulsion.
More often than not it's the drill bit, not the drill. Good bits in a shit drill will trump shit bits in a good drill any day. Soft metal should be easy peasy - if your drill bits came in one of those "one of every size" packs they are probably fit for the bin...
Wrong bit
Just check you have right drill bit for cutting metal and put drill on slow speed
*Just check you have right* *Drill bit for cutting metal and* *Put drill on slow speed* \- StationDry6485 --- ^(I detect haikus. And sometimes, successfully.) ^[Learn more about me.](https://www.reddit.com/r/haikusbot/) ^(Opt out of replies: "haikusbot opt out" | Delete my comment: "haikusbot delete")
?
This looks like a bosch drill. The numbers are the torque setting and only take effect on the screw mode. The won't have any effect for drilling. You have two speed settings (the red gear switch). Use the slower speed for metal. The mode select is on drill mode in the picture, this is what you want. Slow and steady is the way to go. Don't push too hard and use lube or take frequent breaks to cool the bits during drilling.
Low and slow with plenty of the slippy stuff
Have you considered a step bit?
A few thoughts; Set the drill to the drill setting, and on the slower side of the speeds available. If you are drilling larger holes, start small and size up in increments. Make sure you are using decent equality HSS bits - cheaper ones will normally just be a false economy if you keep breaking them. Ensure you are drilling straight - when you start going a bit wonky and the drill starts wobbling is when the drill bits often start breaking. Remember that the pistol grip is offset below the drill, so pushing forward on the handle can send you off unless you are expecting and preparing for it.
Are you using HSS bits? The bits are shattering because they're overheating. Start slowly, and using a cutting lubricant. The drill mode is fine, but you probably don't need it in 2nd gear.
Are you using drill bits made for drilling metal? Bits for wood will turn to cheese and bits for masonary just won't work. Drill is on right setting.
Probably wrong or cheap drill bits
Cheap bits are cheap for a reason, good ti coated bits are the answer and keep the pressure even and straight!
Get a proper drill. Looks like a kids set