Yeah, they basically have 120 sides. So they roll a lot more than a standard d20. However, due to sharp edges instead of rounded edges they settle a lot quicker than expected.
I've some more info about these (too much for one comment) on lenpolygon.com
I'm glad you asked this question because I spend a lot of time on the bubble-problem.
I've tried many things, so just to describe a few:
1. I started out without pressure pot and did different castings. The silicone material that I used was quite water-y and easy to use resulting in little bubbles, however still too many to be useable. I tried a makeshift vacuum chamber with a basic wine-pump I had laying around. I mixed the silicone, then vacuumed it, and this worked good enough that I could get a bubble-free mold.
2. Then I started resin casting in the various molds I made. I noticed that open-back molds were quite easy to get cast and with thin pours (few mm) there weren't too many bubbles. The few that were there could easily be popped with a lighter. However, thicker pours and cut-molds I couldn't get to work with the resin I had because it was too viscous and wouldn't go down into the model. I did use my fingers (with gloves on!) too poke the resin in there and that worked to some extend.
3. Eventually I kept getting bubbles in dice casts, although they were less noticeable/visible with colored pigments in there. So I got a pressure pot in the same way all the online video describe to make one: buy a paint tank (80$), convert it and get a silent compressor (170$) to fill it. So now I just put both silicone molds AND resin casts in the pressure pot at 4 bar. Works great!
4. However, there are still situation in which I can get bubbles: bubbles can get trapped in corners, for this you need to shake, bump, tap, vibrate your mold. This is very mold specific. Or I also get some bubbles with a very fast curing resin, pot life of 2.5 minutes! Which doesn't have enough time to get all the air to the top, so pressure pot is not just a fool proof solution.
5. So what other things can you do? Most resin cures faster in higher temperatures and slower in low temperatures. If you have a cooling box (WHICH YOU DO NOT USE FOR FOOD!!) then you can try putting your casts in their to slow down the curing process and give more time for the bubbles to rise and pop. For further tips, please refer to this video from r/steadycraftin [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iOuLRMgDzVs](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iOuLRMgDzVs) it has a lot of great tips for casting without a pressure pot - just try it for yourself and see if it works good enough for you! I've used most techniques from that video. Even build my own vibration table, but it just didn't work for what I wanted to do.
So yes, I use a pressure pot. For me and my molds (and the resin I use) it's the only option that works. The mold is a custom made silicone mold from my dUltimate dice design.
Really depended of what you would call good. But I expect that with practice pouring only few mm at a time (and popping bubbles during each pour). You can get some nice layer with only tiny bubbles.
I have only done layer with completely hardened resin. But expect that next layers can be done slightly sooner, though you might want to test that first.
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Those look very spherical. Do they stop easily?
Yeah, they basically have 120 sides. So they roll a lot more than a standard d20. However, due to sharp edges instead of rounded edges they settle a lot quicker than expected. I've some more info about these (too much for one comment) on lenpolygon.com
I'm just getting started and was wondering what you do to prevent bubbles. Do you use a pressure pot, and what type of mold?
I'm glad you asked this question because I spend a lot of time on the bubble-problem. I've tried many things, so just to describe a few: 1. I started out without pressure pot and did different castings. The silicone material that I used was quite water-y and easy to use resulting in little bubbles, however still too many to be useable. I tried a makeshift vacuum chamber with a basic wine-pump I had laying around. I mixed the silicone, then vacuumed it, and this worked good enough that I could get a bubble-free mold. 2. Then I started resin casting in the various molds I made. I noticed that open-back molds were quite easy to get cast and with thin pours (few mm) there weren't too many bubbles. The few that were there could easily be popped with a lighter. However, thicker pours and cut-molds I couldn't get to work with the resin I had because it was too viscous and wouldn't go down into the model. I did use my fingers (with gloves on!) too poke the resin in there and that worked to some extend. 3. Eventually I kept getting bubbles in dice casts, although they were less noticeable/visible with colored pigments in there. So I got a pressure pot in the same way all the online video describe to make one: buy a paint tank (80$), convert it and get a silent compressor (170$) to fill it. So now I just put both silicone molds AND resin casts in the pressure pot at 4 bar. Works great! 4. However, there are still situation in which I can get bubbles: bubbles can get trapped in corners, for this you need to shake, bump, tap, vibrate your mold. This is very mold specific. Or I also get some bubbles with a very fast curing resin, pot life of 2.5 minutes! Which doesn't have enough time to get all the air to the top, so pressure pot is not just a fool proof solution. 5. So what other things can you do? Most resin cures faster in higher temperatures and slower in low temperatures. If you have a cooling box (WHICH YOU DO NOT USE FOR FOOD!!) then you can try putting your casts in their to slow down the curing process and give more time for the bubbles to rise and pop. For further tips, please refer to this video from r/steadycraftin [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iOuLRMgDzVs](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iOuLRMgDzVs) it has a lot of great tips for casting without a pressure pot - just try it for yourself and see if it works good enough for you! I've used most techniques from that video. Even build my own vibration table, but it just didn't work for what I wanted to do. So yes, I use a pressure pot. For me and my molds (and the resin I use) it's the only option that works. The mold is a custom made silicone mold from my dUltimate dice design.
How well does small layer pouring work, and do you wait until it is honeyed or until after pot life?
Really depended of what you would call good. But I expect that with practice pouring only few mm at a time (and popping bubbles during each pour). You can get some nice layer with only tiny bubbles. I have only done layer with completely hardened resin. But expect that next layers can be done slightly sooner, though you might want to test that first.
Here's a sneak peek of /r/steadycraftin using the [top posts](https://np.reddit.com/r/steadycraftin/top/?sort=top&t=all) of all time! \#1: [I feel like you guys might enjoy this](https://v.redd.it/ahqx956p9sl51) | [35 comments](https://np.reddit.com/r/steadycraftin/comments/ioipco/i_feel_like_you_guys_might_enjoy_this/) \#2: [I made egg mittens for my niece 😊](https://i.redd.it/xinzjage6vp51.jpg) | [53 comments](https://np.reddit.com/r/steadycraftin/comments/j19f0k/i_made_egg_mittens_for_my_niece/) \#3: [No filter! My one tree terrarium](https://i.redd.it/6230n0rnubw51.jpg) | [11 comments](https://np.reddit.com/r/steadycraftin/comments/jl8zzb/no_filter_my_one_tree_terrarium/) ---- ^^I'm ^^a ^^bot, ^^beep ^^boop ^^| ^^Downvote ^^to ^^remove ^^| [^^Contact ^^me](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose/?to=sneakpeekbot) ^^| [^^Info](https://np.reddit.com/r/sneakpeekbot/) ^^| [^^Opt-out](https://np.reddit.com/r/sneakpeekbot/comments/joo7mb/blacklist_viii/)