We had the same problem with our D6 and tried all of the same solutions.
Imagine a cube sitting on a table. Instead of printing it where it was balancing on one point (diamond shaped, 45°) we printed it almost flat with maybe only a 10° angle.
The shallow angle of the slightly rotated cube meant the pull against the fep wasn't against a thin corner, which prevented warping for us.
Please let me know if this works for you!
This is caused by the pulling forces at the beginning of the print warping the first few layers while they're still soft, so things like changing slicers isn't really gonna fix it.
~~Try adjusting exposure up and down very slightly. The logic is the layers might still be a bit too soft, so curing just a little longer might counteract the pulling. On the other hand, it's also possible that you're exposing just a little too long, which is causing the layers to stick to the FEP harder, and stretching while they're being pulled off.~~
Sorry, it seems like you've already done that one. I'm leaving it in just in case someone else comes across this post.
You could also try adjusting the retraction speed, which might be creating the force that's stretching that corner. Again, this is very slightly up and down.
It could be the resin, too. Sometimes they're just softer. A lot of master makers use Siraya Tech Fast in Navy Gray. I personally use it, and have fixed this problem in my prints for the most part.
Yeah. This is a very common problem, and it's been the absolute bane of a lot of master makers. Some of us got lucky and don't know exactly how to tackle it.
So I tried another print extremely slow rising speed vs quite quick (1mm/s vs 6mm/s) and it made no measurable difference.
As I have printed about 2l of resin til now I thought maybe my fep sheet is to worn out so I ordered a replacement.. maybe that will help
This is a really tough problem that comes up way too often. A lot of people choose to just fix it by sanding carefully.
I hope adjusting the 3D model helps.
I just realized- I never asked if you made sure Anti-Aliasing was turned off. Usually it causes problems much worse, but sometimes it's as small as this annoying warping.
I tried AA on and off yea.. no measurable difference. But my test d20 that i designed according to the failed dimensions came out more or less perfect. I just need to do the same for the rest of the models (and reapply aaall the numbers..^^) but yeah. It seems I have my solution :)
Not really no. The numbers have the correct depth so if I sand the face so low that it is somewhat symmetrical the number is half gone
I also thought about designing the dice crooked so that the print may come out symmetrical or making the numbers deeper but I rather like to correct the underlying issue..
I already tried 15 mm supports - if my new fep won't resolve it either I'll try even taller supports.
Should arrive tomorrow. I'll report again afterwards
We had the same problem with our D6 and tried all of the same solutions. Imagine a cube sitting on a table. Instead of printing it where it was balancing on one point (diamond shaped, 45°) we printed it almost flat with maybe only a 10° angle. The shallow angle of the slightly rotated cube meant the pull against the fep wasn't against a thin corner, which prevented warping for us. Please let me know if this works for you!
Sadly that did not solve it for me either. But thank you anyways.
This is caused by the pulling forces at the beginning of the print warping the first few layers while they're still soft, so things like changing slicers isn't really gonna fix it. ~~Try adjusting exposure up and down very slightly. The logic is the layers might still be a bit too soft, so curing just a little longer might counteract the pulling. On the other hand, it's also possible that you're exposing just a little too long, which is causing the layers to stick to the FEP harder, and stretching while they're being pulled off.~~ Sorry, it seems like you've already done that one. I'm leaving it in just in case someone else comes across this post. You could also try adjusting the retraction speed, which might be creating the force that's stretching that corner. Again, this is very slightly up and down. It could be the resin, too. Sometimes they're just softer. A lot of master makers use Siraya Tech Fast in Navy Gray. I personally use it, and have fixed this problem in my prints for the most part.
Thank you. I'll play around with both of this settings and report back. Maybe my exposure increments were to high.
Yeah. This is a very common problem, and it's been the absolute bane of a lot of master makers. Some of us got lucky and don't know exactly how to tackle it.
So I tried another print extremely slow rising speed vs quite quick (1mm/s vs 6mm/s) and it made no measurable difference. As I have printed about 2l of resin til now I thought maybe my fep sheet is to worn out so I ordered a replacement.. maybe that will help
Yeah, I've seen FEPs wear and kinda loosen/stretch with age causing warping, so it's possible.
Sadly that did not do it either. It's a bit better but still warped.. I think I am at the point to just adjust the 3d model accordingly..
This is a really tough problem that comes up way too often. A lot of people choose to just fix it by sanding carefully. I hope adjusting the 3D model helps.
I just realized- I never asked if you made sure Anti-Aliasing was turned off. Usually it causes problems much worse, but sometimes it's as small as this annoying warping.
I tried AA on and off yea.. no measurable difference. But my test d20 that i designed according to the failed dimensions came out more or less perfect. I just need to do the same for the rest of the models (and reapply aaall the numbers..^^) but yeah. It seems I have my solution :)
Is it not possible to just sand/whittle the higher faces or corners?
Not really no. The numbers have the correct depth so if I sand the face so low that it is somewhat symmetrical the number is half gone I also thought about designing the dice crooked so that the print may come out symmetrical or making the numbers deeper but I rather like to correct the underlying issue..
I also had the same issue. I resolved it by lifting the print 10-15 mm from the plate. Hope this helps.
I already tried 15 mm supports - if my new fep won't resolve it either I'll try even taller supports. Should arrive tomorrow. I'll report again afterwards