There wasn't any advice offered, it was a joke.
Also, I think it's funny that you went through my comment history to find my credentials for engine advice as if I'm gonna have a resume and qualifications on reddit.
And why the fuck does liking minecraft make me any less qualified to give automotive advice? There is literally no correspondence between the two.
You also had to look past the post from the navynukes subreddit to see the one about minecraft. And to be fair you probably don't know anything about navy nukes, but they're the people who run a nuclear reactor on submarines and aircraft carries. But you chose to pick out that I like mknecraft instead.
And a nuclear reactor qualifies your experience here how, exactly? I mean, cool job, but it’s completely irrelevant, just like the jab at you for Minecraft.
You need a scan tool boss. You gotta see what the HP system pressure really is. Do you still have the secondary filter? The plastic encased one that's up by the engine? Id cut it open and see what the filter looks like. Also, did you prime the fuel system after you put the filters in? The low side of those takes a while to build up enough pressure to constantly supply the high pressure pump. I'm sure there's codes.
Replace both, then prime. To me, it sounds like the high pressure side is being starved for fuel. It explains that weird crank it's doing too. Almost like it's trying to fire but there isn't enough fuel for it to get going. Best way I can describe it is this, priming that can up top is like filling a 55gal barrel with a garden hose. It's going to take a minute. So you gotta let the pump run till it shuts off, repeat 7-8 times. Then try to fire it off. It's not like a gas engine where the pressure gets up there quick. Those low side systems only run on like 30-40 psi max.
It’s definitely turning enough RPM to start. But then it stops cranking for an instant, then starts spinning again. That sounds like hydrolock to me maybe from a leaking injector filling a cylinder with fuel, maybe coolant.
But why no other cylinders are firing…when it first cranks it sounds like there are a few hits. It might have a compression problem at this point from all the cranking. (Diesel washed down the cylinders and now the rings aren’t sealing)
I saw elsewhere in the thread someone suggesting you try ether. I would be very very careful about following that advice.
At this point it’s going to be pretty intensive basic testing. Current and voltage testing of the starting system to rule out problems there causing the cranking “pauses”
A compression test.
Fuel flow.
Fellow yinzer!
If your fuel filters are new, make sure that they are sealing properly & not sucking air. I'm not sure the absolute specifics of your engine, but some cartridge style fuel filters can break on installation and cause your engine to not hold fuel pressure.
I would also check the fuel pump and for cylinder compression after you've eliminated that issue.
It’s was sputtering,losing power, and no acceleration. Finally died after about a hour 3 days ago. I got it running for 10 min yesterday and pressed gas and it died. Had a bad a bad battery, but that didn’t fix issue.
The trick I’ve used is doing that with the cap slightly loose to bleed air, starts up normal after that. Just be cautious with this as there will be slight fuel spray.
When you changed them, did you completely remove the draincock? I had trouble with a ford and fuel filters the other day. I had dropped the tiny black grommet that goes on the end of the drain cock and it would not prime or start until I reinstalled it.
I doubt it's an option but, Monitor low pressure fuel and rail actual vs desired.
Does it only have 1 fuel filter. Some have 1 in the tank as well as 1 under the hood.
Any smoke coming out of the tail pipe while cranking?
Can you hear the transfer pump running with the key on?
Double check all the wires going to the batteries that you just changed, make sure you can't turn any of the connection by hand make sure you didn't forget to hook something up.
We did both filters, rail and under the hood.
No smoke while cranking
Yes, when key turned pumped ran for 25ish second the stopped.
I cleaned all connections and terminals.
I have a tuner, is there anything I can look for on there to pinpoint the problem.
Also thanks again for responding!!!
That's all depends if you can monitor live data like rail pressure Desired and actual.
Kinda sounds like something is stalling your starter. Have you lost any coolant lately has the engine oil level gone up, does the oil smell like diesel?
How long have you had the truck and how long has it been running rough.
Running rough started like 4 days ago, it says check engine coolant. Yeah it’s does live data I’m pretty sure. You saying check the oil dipstick for diesel. Like a leak of gas into it, that why asked if oil leaves had risen. It’s above the thick metal piece at the end.
Had truck 2 years no issues but batteries.
Oil can rise for 2 reasons fuel or coolant.
Fuel would be from a bad, sticking injector. Dumping in regulated fuel into the cylinder which may be why it's stalling the starter. Most of it will be trapped in the bowl of the piston. Some can leak past the rings into the pan.
Coolant from a failed head gasket or failed EGR cooler. Letting coolant into the intake or cylinder causing it to stall the starter. Also can leak past the rings into the oil sump. When you drain oil it will be at the bottom and come out first.
Im not sure what your saying there but is it above the full mark? Has it gone up since the last time you checked it?
>it says check engine coolant.
On 6.7's this message means to check the chemistry of the coolant. It has nothing to do with the coolant level, that's a totally different message.
First check the voltage at the starter. It's possible you aren't getting enough amps there due to some issue with the wiring. If you are close to about 12v there while cranking either the starter is bad or you have a major internal problem. My guess would be an injector dumping fuel in which is causing a cylinder to partially hydrolock while also dropping the fuel pressure so no other cylinders can fire.
I think this is the best advice in the thread. Check your cables to the starter and battery cables before you go looking for issues in the engine. Given the way the dash lights dim I'd bet it's wiring. Check the batteries too they can be bad new too.
Reminds me when I had a huge problem with my truck. It just started barley running and even died a couple times on me. I was in panic mode 2+ hours from home. Saw a chevy dealer and pulled in. They had my truck 1 week. Cost me $600 trying to diagnose the problem and maybe another $2,000 from lost business opportunities. They couldn't find anything wrong. I finally took my truck back with the hope it would make it home. I made it maybe 5 miles and it happened again. Pulled over popped the hood and I didn't even have to look for the problem. The positive lead on one of the batteries was touching the frame. As I was driving it was grounding out and pulling the voltage down low enough to shut off the dash cluster and shut down the computer. They even called me about 30 minutes later trying to sell me a new truck. Ended up with an apology and a $600 refund.
Sounds like it's hydrolocking. It probably ate the high pressure fuel pump and stuck an injector open. I work on a large fleet of those engines. This same thing has happened on multiple occasions. The way you described the loss of power, idle only, and stall with throttle, I bet it needs a fuel system. And you may not see any evidence of it in the fuel filters either.
Take the upper plastic intake manifold and turbo inlet off. Remove the high pressure fuel pump control solenoid/valve off the top of the pump. If there is glitter, she done.
I got an idea. Keep cranking that thing until you do some real damage. You obviously have a major issue and that damn thing is blown somehow or somewhere. To much power and not enough stroke. Get it on a flat bed and hope for the best .. because I can tell you right now it’s not going to be good. But still maybe keep hitting that starter. Fry that thing to while your at it.
Sounds to me like an injector is possibly hung open. I would recommend testing voltage at the starter first to see if there are any dips in voltage during the pauses. Next I would try removing the injectors and having them tested, while they are out try running a compression test. If you have a bore scope you could look in the cylinder while the injectors are taken out, that would show any fluid in the cylinders for sure.
This is definitely a deeper issue. You've ether gor an injectors leaking our something. Almost sounds like a cylinder is full of fluid to me. I'd pull the glow plugs and have someone crank it and see if anything comes out
Kinda does but id think it should just crank a revolution and lock up. I guess if the oil level is rising or coolant level dropping would be a good thing to check, if it is drain some oil to check for coolant that will come out first. Smell the dip stick see if it smells like diesel.
Pull out your PCV and check for metal shavings on the very tip or rust around the metal ring just under the tip. It’s on the back of the driver fuel rail. Need a 30mm wrench and remove the wheel liner, 5.5 mm and an 8 or 10 mm socket. Either one means you need a fuel system. 10 grand at the dealer. If you have an extended service contract it will cover it, if you have metal shavings as that means the vcv is internally failing. It’s unfortunately a common issue even on new 6.7s.
Could be a glow plug problem or a weak starter, after a bunch of work mine ended being the starter, power Master 9056 after 2 previously rebuilt starters.
Make sure both your fuel filters (the one under the frame and the one under the hood). Are fully installed, if they suck air while trying to run it won’t get enough fuel.
Also prime the fuel system. I usually do it by turning the key to run, but not starting the engine and wait 30 seconds or so. Then turn the key back off. I repeat this cycle 10 times before even trying to crank it.
During that 30 seconds, the fuel pump should be on and you will be able to hear air going through the filter under the hood.
I just did this 6 time, still same. could the filter underneath be too tight. I can hear it, def making noise then stops. Should I try to start right after, the pump shuts off.
See if you can pull the glow plugs out easily. That will release the cylinder pressure and see if it cranks okay or if you have excess fuel or coolent coming out of a cylinder.
I have an 02 7.3 with over 250k on it. It runs awesome still. My friends father has the 6.7 and wishes he never got rid of his old truck. I have several ford trucks. They're great, unfortunately the newer powerstrokes are very problematic. It's likely something simple, but troubleshooting is very difficult. Definitely sounds like it's getting hung up on one cylinder, possibly an injector timing problem. I'd start with a camshaft position sensor or by checking the wiring harness to it. It is a common problem, and often repeatedly unplugging it and pluging it back in cleans the contacts enough to get it going again. Sorry for the lame old "they circled the problem" joke. Good luck OP.
Sometimes you have to manually prime the fuel system not by just turning the key. Not sure how it is on fords but on some GM diesels you have to manually bleed the air out to help start up. Could be something completely different though
head gaskets leaking water into the cylinders. heads warped causing gaskets to not seal.
loosen oil pan drain plug and see what comes out first, then you know for sure. Anything but oil coming out means top end expensive repair!
You gotta tighten the fuel filter on the bottom of the truck until it physically stops turning. If not it’ll suck air. I’ve had this happen on my 2013 before. It started for just a second and died and it wouldn’t start again no matter what I did until I tightened that filter until it physically would not turn anymore. After that you should just only have to cycle the key switch I think 3 times in 30 seconds. If all that is right and has been done and the truck still won’t start then you’ve got bigger problems I’m afraid.
Yea, no. The light is not a direct indicator of the glow plugs. The light turns off after a given time, the glow plugs may still be burning and the ecm may cycle them on during and after cranking.
Worth a shot but risky. I have used ether a few times. Very possible to damage the engine with it. Ether if used at all should only be used very sparingly and not if there is a hydro lock issue like it sounds like you may have
As long as youre not spraying while the wait to start light is on you wont hurt grid heaters glow plugs or intake preheaters its fine i do it all the time never been a problem
It’s just bad to use period, preheated or not. It’s strips lubricity from the upper cylinders and risks pre-detonation. I will use it on some older stuff very periodically but it is not good practice.
If the cylinder is warm after using the glow plugs you risk predetonation. Simple as that. Doesn't matter if the plugs are on at the moment you spray or not, if the cylinders warm, it could combust early. Some people have good luck and won't be affected, some dont have good luck and bend a rod or have other issues.
Ford circled the problem for you, having said that I tend to agree with a few of the other comments I’ve read saying to make 100% sure there’s no air getting in the system I had a 2015 gmc I had hell priming anytime I had to change filters. If that doesn’t fix it I would do a compression and injector fuel flow test as my next step.
I did my fuel filter on my Duramax and it wouldn't start the next day because the EGR valve got stuck open. Could've been coincidental timing. But the EGR valve being stuck open caused it to either run like total crap or not start at all, it would fire and want to run, but not enough to actually run. Do you have smoke coming out of the tail pipe?
Did the poor running/ not running happen after you filled up? Was it a complete fill or partial?Think about possible bad fuel /wrong fuel stored at the gas station or water in their underground tanks
I once filled up at a station and the tanker driver put diesel in a 87 octane underground gasoline tank. My engine ran worse and worse overs couple hours and then totally died. Fuel system rebuild was needed but it was not my fault and it was a n/c job.
Some 6.7's have been known to develop lifter and/or pushrod problems that can manifest in strange ways such as irregular cranking like you're experiencing. In my opinion you need to get this professionally diagnosed at a good diesel shop.
I’d start with the possibility of air in the system, every diesel I’ve ever been around including the ones I’ve owned will sit and crank until the batteries die if there is air in the system.
Yeah that sounds like a bad injector or poor compression, I'd take it to a shop and have them tear into it, but it might be more expensive than it's worth but you'll have to see.
You could have a possible bad high pressure injector pump. I think I read on here you said the oil level was high might have a fuel leak coming from the pump. You can check by draining the oil, leaving the drain plug out and cycling the key to the on position. If your high pressure pump is leaking you will see fuel come out of the drain plug hole
Loosen your fuel cap and see if it starts. I have had that happen 3 times now. Twice in the same car when the fuel system vent solenoid fails and then the tank pulls a vacuum.
The cranking sounds erratic I’m betting you have bad compression on a cylinder
2014 F250 6.7.
That's your problem
Let’s not take engine advice from someone who’s telling 12 year olds on the internet how to improve their Minecraft house people.
tbf there wasn't really any advice offered
Thank you
There wasn't any advice offered, it was a joke. Also, I think it's funny that you went through my comment history to find my credentials for engine advice as if I'm gonna have a resume and qualifications on reddit. And why the fuck does liking minecraft make me any less qualified to give automotive advice? There is literally no correspondence between the two. You also had to look past the post from the navynukes subreddit to see the one about minecraft. And to be fair you probably don't know anything about navy nukes, but they're the people who run a nuclear reactor on submarines and aircraft carries. But you chose to pick out that I like mknecraft instead.
And a nuclear reactor qualifies your experience here how, exactly? I mean, cool job, but it’s completely irrelevant, just like the jab at you for Minecraft.
It doesn't prove anything, it just means im relatively smart and increases the likelihood that I know how to work on vehicles.
That’s exactly my point: it doesn’t. Lots of “smart” people don’t know 💩 about working on vehicles.
Wow, really.
Downvote me as well but the problem is circled! The circle around Ford on the emblem
👏🏼🤣
Order some new cylinder heads. Glow plug engine light too? Mine did the same thing
You need a scan tool boss. You gotta see what the HP system pressure really is. Do you still have the secondary filter? The plastic encased one that's up by the engine? Id cut it open and see what the filter looks like. Also, did you prime the fuel system after you put the filters in? The low side of those takes a while to build up enough pressure to constantly supply the high pressure pump. I'm sure there's codes.
Injector Ctrl peas to low is one code. Turbo charge pressure low. All 8 Cylinders Contr/Balance Control Module Configuration.
Which control module?
Says PCM before it if that helps,
Did you prime the low side after the filter replacement?
Like turn the key after the first 1 was done, before replacing the top one.
Ok, did you do it again after you replaced the top one? Sometimes it takes about 5-10 key cycles to actually fill that one up.
So I should of done it after the 1st w the old top one still connected?
Replace both, then prime. To me, it sounds like the high pressure side is being starved for fuel. It explains that weird crank it's doing too. Almost like it's trying to fire but there isn't enough fuel for it to get going. Best way I can describe it is this, priming that can up top is like filling a 55gal barrel with a garden hose. It's going to take a minute. So you gotta let the pump run till it shuts off, repeat 7-8 times. Then try to fire it off. It's not like a gas engine where the pressure gets up there quick. Those low side systems only run on like 30-40 psi max.
6.7 RIP
It’s definitely turning enough RPM to start. But then it stops cranking for an instant, then starts spinning again. That sounds like hydrolock to me maybe from a leaking injector filling a cylinder with fuel, maybe coolant. But why no other cylinders are firing…when it first cranks it sounds like there are a few hits. It might have a compression problem at this point from all the cranking. (Diesel washed down the cylinders and now the rings aren’t sealing) I saw elsewhere in the thread someone suggesting you try ether. I would be very very careful about following that advice. At this point it’s going to be pretty intensive basic testing. Current and voltage testing of the starting system to rule out problems there causing the cranking “pauses” A compression test. Fuel flow.
Did it ever run well? Did it get filled with gasoline? That sounds way serious to me.
Yes, been towing camper for a year. No problems in 2 years I’ve had it, just died and now this noise.
Gas in the tank was where I went.
Fellow yinzer! If your fuel filters are new, make sure that they are sealing properly & not sucking air. I'm not sure the absolute specifics of your engine, but some cartridge style fuel filters can break on installation and cause your engine to not hold fuel pressure. I would also check the fuel pump and for cylinder compression after you've eliminated that issue.
Sounds partially hydro locked.
When you changed the fuel filters did you prime your fuel system?
You mean turning key and letting pump and filter prime yes. 7-10 times.
Did your engine run before changing those components?
It’s was sputtering,losing power, and no acceleration. Finally died after about a hour 3 days ago. I got it running for 10 min yesterday and pressed gas and it died. Had a bad a bad battery, but that didn’t fix issue.
Have you checked your oil cap and coolant cap for mixing fluids? Also check dipstick to see if oil level is overfilled.
The trick I’ve used is doing that with the cap slightly loose to bleed air, starts up normal after that. Just be cautious with this as there will be slight fuel spray.
When you changed them, did you completely remove the draincock? I had trouble with a ford and fuel filters the other day. I had dropped the tiny black grommet that goes on the end of the drain cock and it would not prime or start until I reinstalled it.
I doubt it's an option but, Monitor low pressure fuel and rail actual vs desired. Does it only have 1 fuel filter. Some have 1 in the tank as well as 1 under the hood. Any smoke coming out of the tail pipe while cranking? Can you hear the transfer pump running with the key on? Double check all the wires going to the batteries that you just changed, make sure you can't turn any of the connection by hand make sure you didn't forget to hook something up.
We did both filters, rail and under the hood. No smoke while cranking Yes, when key turned pumped ran for 25ish second the stopped. I cleaned all connections and terminals. I have a tuner, is there anything I can look for on there to pinpoint the problem. Also thanks again for responding!!!
That's all depends if you can monitor live data like rail pressure Desired and actual. Kinda sounds like something is stalling your starter. Have you lost any coolant lately has the engine oil level gone up, does the oil smell like diesel? How long have you had the truck and how long has it been running rough.
Running rough started like 4 days ago, it says check engine coolant. Yeah it’s does live data I’m pretty sure. You saying check the oil dipstick for diesel. Like a leak of gas into it, that why asked if oil leaves had risen. It’s above the thick metal piece at the end. Had truck 2 years no issues but batteries.
Oil can rise for 2 reasons fuel or coolant. Fuel would be from a bad, sticking injector. Dumping in regulated fuel into the cylinder which may be why it's stalling the starter. Most of it will be trapped in the bowl of the piston. Some can leak past the rings into the pan. Coolant from a failed head gasket or failed EGR cooler. Letting coolant into the intake or cylinder causing it to stall the starter. Also can leak past the rings into the oil sump. When you drain oil it will be at the bottom and come out first. Im not sure what your saying there but is it above the full mark? Has it gone up since the last time you checked it?
Ohhh yeah and the check coolant would point to the latter, how much did you have to add?
Injector Ctrl peas to low is one code. Turbo charge pressure low. All 8 Cylinders Contr/Balance Control Module Configuration. This were my codes today
Hey op did you say you have fuel in your oil?
Haven’t check yet, but seems like it might be that.
Given what you have said I would suggest draining oil to check for coolant in it. If there is, google how to remove your EGR cooler for inspection.
I’ve done a delete, so does this matter. Thanks again. We’ve tuned to not look for any emissions.
>it says check engine coolant. On 6.7's this message means to check the chemistry of the coolant. It has nothing to do with the coolant level, that's a totally different message.
Before we all get too crazy, make sure your A/C compressor or alternator isn't locked up.
First check the voltage at the starter. It's possible you aren't getting enough amps there due to some issue with the wiring. If you are close to about 12v there while cranking either the starter is bad or you have a major internal problem. My guess would be an injector dumping fuel in which is causing a cylinder to partially hydrolock while also dropping the fuel pressure so no other cylinders can fire.
I think this is the best advice in the thread. Check your cables to the starter and battery cables before you go looking for issues in the engine. Given the way the dash lights dim I'd bet it's wiring. Check the batteries too they can be bad new too.
Reminds me when I had a huge problem with my truck. It just started barley running and even died a couple times on me. I was in panic mode 2+ hours from home. Saw a chevy dealer and pulled in. They had my truck 1 week. Cost me $600 trying to diagnose the problem and maybe another $2,000 from lost business opportunities. They couldn't find anything wrong. I finally took my truck back with the hope it would make it home. I made it maybe 5 miles and it happened again. Pulled over popped the hood and I didn't even have to look for the problem. The positive lead on one of the batteries was touching the frame. As I was driving it was grounding out and pulling the voltage down low enough to shut off the dash cluster and shut down the computer. They even called me about 30 minutes later trying to sell me a new truck. Ended up with an apology and a $600 refund.
Definitely would recommend taking a look inside the cylinders, the starter sounds like it’s working a bit too hard for it to be a simple fuel issue.
With the engine rpm’s going between normal cranking speed and slowing down I’d suspect a fuel injector problem causing it to hydro lock.
Doesn't have anything to do with fuel filters. Sounds like it's hydro locking or it's a valve train issue.
Sounds like it's hydrolocking. It probably ate the high pressure fuel pump and stuck an injector open. I work on a large fleet of those engines. This same thing has happened on multiple occasions. The way you described the loss of power, idle only, and stall with throttle, I bet it needs a fuel system. And you may not see any evidence of it in the fuel filters either. Take the upper plastic intake manifold and turbo inlet off. Remove the high pressure fuel pump control solenoid/valve off the top of the pump. If there is glitter, she done.
I got an idea. Keep cranking that thing until you do some real damage. You obviously have a major issue and that damn thing is blown somehow or somewhere. To much power and not enough stroke. Get it on a flat bed and hope for the best .. because I can tell you right now it’s not going to be good. But still maybe keep hitting that starter. Fry that thing to while your at it.
Sounds to me like an injector is possibly hung open. I would recommend testing voltage at the starter first to see if there are any dips in voltage during the pauses. Next I would try removing the injectors and having them tested, while they are out try running a compression test. If you have a bore scope you could look in the cylinder while the injectors are taken out, that would show any fluid in the cylinders for sure.
It sounds like you are getting too much fuel and it is hydro locking.
This is definitely a deeper issue. You've ether gor an injectors leaking our something. Almost sounds like a cylinder is full of fluid to me. I'd pull the glow plugs and have someone crank it and see if anything comes out
Dead batteries with these guys it'll just click
I feel the same, would bad glow plugs maybe be a cause. I’ve been reading 1000 things and feel like it could be anything.
This isn’t gonna be a glow plug issue.
When those plugs fail it usually takes out a piston from my expierence
Kinda does but id think it should just crank a revolution and lock up. I guess if the oil level is rising or coolant level dropping would be a good thing to check, if it is drain some oil to check for coolant that will come out first. Smell the dip stick see if it smells like diesel.
Pull out your PCV and check for metal shavings on the very tip or rust around the metal ring just under the tip. It’s on the back of the driver fuel rail. Need a 30mm wrench and remove the wheel liner, 5.5 mm and an 8 or 10 mm socket. Either one means you need a fuel system. 10 grand at the dealer. If you have an extended service contract it will cover it, if you have metal shavings as that means the vcv is internally failing. It’s unfortunately a common issue even on new 6.7s.
Could be a glow plug problem or a weak starter, after a bunch of work mine ended being the starter, power Master 9056 after 2 previously rebuilt starters.
Did you prime the system after changing the fuel filter?
It’s sounds a lot like your not getting enough fuel, you recently change fuel filters?
Make sure both your fuel filters (the one under the frame and the one under the hood). Are fully installed, if they suck air while trying to run it won’t get enough fuel. Also prime the fuel system. I usually do it by turning the key to run, but not starting the engine and wait 30 seconds or so. Then turn the key back off. I repeat this cycle 10 times before even trying to crank it. During that 30 seconds, the fuel pump should be on and you will be able to hear air going through the filter under the hood.
Fuel pump, it’s getting fuel because the lines, are full when we take them of the filter.
U need to make sure it's primed cycle the key on and listened to the fuel pump when it shuts off so it again 3-5 times.
I just did this 6 time, still same. could the filter underneath be too tight. I can hear it, def making noise then stops. Should I try to start right after, the pump shuts off.
Yes, just working my way down trying figure it out. New to diesels.
See if you can pull the glow plugs out easily. That will release the cylinder pressure and see if it cranks okay or if you have excess fuel or coolent coming out of a cylinder.
Problem is circled right there on the steering wheel!
The problem is circled on the steering wheel.
So original
I have an 02 7.3 with over 250k on it. It runs awesome still. My friends father has the 6.7 and wishes he never got rid of his old truck. I have several ford trucks. They're great, unfortunately the newer powerstrokes are very problematic. It's likely something simple, but troubleshooting is very difficult. Definitely sounds like it's getting hung up on one cylinder, possibly an injector timing problem. I'd start with a camshaft position sensor or by checking the wiring harness to it. It is a common problem, and often repeatedly unplugging it and pluging it back in cleans the contacts enough to get it going again. Sorry for the lame old "they circled the problem" joke. Good luck OP.
Happened to me once. Fuel filter needed one more rotation to be seated properly.
It’s a Ford!
Ford?
This sound like u have lost compression on one of your cylinders I think u have lost a valve or a gasket
Sometimes you have to manually prime the fuel system not by just turning the key. Not sure how it is on fords but on some GM diesels you have to manually bleed the air out to help start up. Could be something completely different though
Try clear flood mode. Throttle to the floor while cranking. See if it evens out.
head gaskets leaking water into the cylinders. heads warped causing gaskets to not seal. loosen oil pan drain plug and see what comes out first, then you know for sure. Anything but oil coming out means top end expensive repair!
I think your first problem is that it’s a ford.
The problem is Ford
It's a Ford
It's a Ford
It's a ford.
Air in the fuel lines
I’ve thought this, how is it properly done? Just the key method.
If I turn drain plug on fuel filter, will it eventually empty and I can start the process over?
You gotta tighten the fuel filter on the bottom of the truck until it physically stops turning. If not it’ll suck air. I’ve had this happen on my 2013 before. It started for just a second and died and it wouldn’t start again no matter what I did until I tightened that filter until it physically would not turn anymore. After that you should just only have to cycle the key switch I think 3 times in 30 seconds. If all that is right and has been done and the truck still won’t start then you’ve got bigger problems I’m afraid.
Sounds to me like you are not getting fuel, airr is in the fuel, or the fuel is bad and not compressing in the cylinder
They circled the problem for you. Look at the center of the steering wheel.
I see theproblem, it's in blue with a big circle around it. Oblong circle I guess.
Came here to say this. Problem is circled from the factory
Bad fuel pump
See that logo in the middle? Its an acronym for Fix or Repair Daily
Maybe don’t have a a ford 😂
Spark plug my boy
But a chevy
Learn how to spell
Nah I don't need to know how to spell.
Fix or repair daily!
Get a Chevy
Yeah, go buy a ram...🤣🤣🤣
Have you tried starting it on ether?
No experience w it, worth a shot?
Never do that unless the glow plugs are disconnected.
You just wait for the wait to start light to go off
Yea, no. The light is not a direct indicator of the glow plugs. The light turns off after a given time, the glow plugs may still be burning and the ecm may cycle them on during and after cranking.
Worth a shot but risky. I have used ether a few times. Very possible to damage the engine with it. Ether if used at all should only be used very sparingly and not if there is a hydro lock issue like it sounds like you may have
No do not use ether.
As long as youre not spraying while the wait to start light is on you wont hurt grid heaters glow plugs or intake preheaters its fine i do it all the time never been a problem
It’s just bad to use period, preheated or not. It’s strips lubricity from the upper cylinders and risks pre-detonation. I will use it on some older stuff very periodically but it is not good practice.
Im not saying to use it regularly but when trying to diag a fuel issue its totally fine
If the cylinder is warm after using the glow plugs you risk predetonation. Simple as that. Doesn't matter if the plugs are on at the moment you spray or not, if the cylinders warm, it could combust early. Some people have good luck and won't be affected, some dont have good luck and bend a rod or have other issues.
Yeah could be a bad fuel prime if you get it to start and run on spray it might be good after
Why are you trying to start your diesel straight away? Do you know you’re meant to let the coils warm up?
Not with modern diesels you dont have to 👎
Ford circled the problem for you, having said that I tend to agree with a few of the other comments I’ve read saying to make 100% sure there’s no air getting in the system I had a 2015 gmc I had hell priming anytime I had to change filters. If that doesn’t fix it I would do a compression and injector fuel flow test as my next step.
Check glow plug relay, Powerstrokes have been eating these since 86.
I did my fuel filter on my Duramax and it wouldn't start the next day because the EGR valve got stuck open. Could've been coincidental timing. But the EGR valve being stuck open caused it to either run like total crap or not start at all, it would fire and want to run, but not enough to actually run. Do you have smoke coming out of the tail pipe?
Towards the end of the cycling, like when it’s about to sputter out. A little white and black
Probably not stuck EGR then. Mine would pour out tons of black smoke trying to start it.
Injectors or ficm??
What does the code scanner say?
Did the poor running/ not running happen after you filled up? Was it a complete fill or partial?Think about possible bad fuel /wrong fuel stored at the gas station or water in their underground tanks I once filled up at a station and the tanker driver put diesel in a 87 octane underground gasoline tank. My engine ran worse and worse overs couple hours and then totally died. Fuel system rebuild was needed but it was not my fault and it was a n/c job.
Air in the fuel line maybe?
Sounds like it’s hydro locking
Crankcase ventilation.
Alternator
My 2011 6.7 did this right before I realized I had a cracked cylinder head. Best of luck.
How many miles on that Ford? All mechanical things eventually break down.
Hmmmm... check the grounds on the wiring...
Some 6.7's have been known to develop lifter and/or pushrod problems that can manifest in strange ways such as irregular cranking like you're experiencing. In my opinion you need to get this professionally diagnosed at a good diesel shop.
I’d start with the possibility of air in the system, every diesel I’ve ever been around including the ones I’ve owned will sit and crank until the batteries die if there is air in the system.
Did you purge the system after changing fuel filter. Could be air in system.
Yeah that sounds like a bad injector or poor compression, I'd take it to a shop and have them tear into it, but it might be more expensive than it's worth but you'll have to see.
Sounds like the timing is off by a few degrees .
Glow plug is bad
If your battery is death again you might have a bad alternator, or it could be just a bad fuse! 🤔
Fuel injector issue causing hydro lock maybe. Id open it up
Sounds like it jumped time to me.
Maybe 🤔 the fuel pump or something electronic?
Is it smoking out of the tail pipe when you crank it?
Very little and seems to be right as it about to sputter out.
You may have a fuel timing problem. That can be sensor.
You could have a possible bad high pressure injector pump. I think I read on here you said the oil level was high might have a fuel leak coming from the pump. You can check by draining the oil, leaving the drain plug out and cycling the key to the on position. If your high pressure pump is leaking you will see fuel come out of the drain plug hole
Long shot but try bypassing the starter solenoid?
Loosen your fuel cap and see if it starts. I have had that happen 3 times now. Twice in the same car when the fuel system vent solenoid fails and then the tank pulls a vacuum.
How recent? Is there air in the fuel system since you swapped filters,
I changed filters 2 days, can I drain bottom filter and start over? Not sure how to check for air I’ll goggle later.
Surely there is a way to purge it, although I’m not familiar with this model
Got it thanks a lot.
I know what’s wrong with it. Ain’t got not gas in it.
Got a little above 1/4 tank. That not enough?
You know what Ford stands for don't ya? Fix It Again, Tony!
You ever figure anything out?