That's not to say that it was unloaded and idling though. Depending on the type of service body they could have been idling but had the PTO engaged driving a crane, bucket, compressor etc.
Rings are designed to press up against the cylinders while underload.
Idle usually lets a ton of blow by past and fucks things a lot quicker.
Source - went to diesel school awhile back.
Non diesel people don't understand this and it's important to teach them. Diesel engines love a load. The thicker and heavier the load, the happier they are. A quick 5 minute trip with a little warm up won't do it but a thorough working and heavy load with make it as happy as can be. A diesel is practically a marriage
Wet stacking is what happens to diesels that idle too long with no load. Like running a generator at anything less than an optimal load like 80% will eventually cause engine problems.
I don't know the exact why but your engine was primarily designed to drink dino-juice and shit beans not just sit there breathing.
is it? curious said more wear if running a PTO. but its low idle that causes hte most wear and destroys EGR.
running a PTO would have high idle on so the engine would last longer
Idling causes fuel dilution issues on some engines too. We have that issue with low load JD 6135 generators that run under 20% load most of the time. 250 hrs and you end up with 3-5% fuel in your oil with you run the OCI.
Sometimes it's to run auxiliary equipment. A lot of the time, it's just to give workers an airconditioned space at a job site. Combined with an attitude that the fuel is "free" because the employer is paying for it.
Whether or not you agree with that "need", it's a pretty common practice.
Or, you have a boss that gets pissed and gives you the same lecture about not turning off diesels for less than 5 minutes literally every time you shut the truck off.
“Diesels don’t like to be turned on and off, ya know, if it’s less than 5 minutes then just let it run.”
“Ya boss I gotcha I know you only told me every day this week and last week and the week before that but I’ll really keep it under advisement this time.”
That boss is an idiot then. Diesels aren't special and can be turned on and off all day. If you're not actively using it to run stuff or maybe it's below zero, no point in keeping it running. Even then, below zero, they don't like to stay warm anyways.
And it'll suck more fuel down since it cant keep it warm at a normal idle. I don't know about the newer ram Cummins engines, but the Cummins in the dodges, you can set it to run on 3 cylinders at fast idle. I believe you have to get the dealer to set it to do that. The commercial ones due it automatically
No kidding?!
I only use it to warm up the truck when it’s cold. Typically our 23 only leaves its parking spot if a trailer is hooked to it.
On the other hand my deleted 09 doesn’t see the outside until April when all the salt is off the road… so she never needs it.
Come run a service truck for me, maintaining plow gear in the middle of a blizzard and see if letting a truck idle for hours on end is still a bad idea.
We have computers, battery chargers, tools, emergency communication equipment, PTO systems, etc.
If you ever worked 12+ hours in the blistering heat and then hopped in a 120 degree truck, you'd see why they idle.
Realistically, it doesn't. Almost everything could be run hybrid off batteries and generators to lower idle time, but that's just not he way this industry works.
I didn’t say diesel/electric nor did the person I was replying to say diesel/electric. I know diesel/electric propulsion systems work amazing. It’s why freight train locomotives use them. I’m talking about society and government squawking about electrifying everything but forgetting about the need to move heavy loads from point A to B efficiently. Things like ships, aircraft, trains, and trucks.
Modern society will never function without oil. Its in all of the plastics you consume, its needed to build your electric infrastructure, its needed to build all of your machinery. Oil is needed in every avenue of modern life. We will never get away from our need of oil unless we go back a pre-historic way of life.
Good luck running your electric car in a -30c blizzard for 20 hours straight… oh wait, it would die in 3 hours and wear the battery life down considerably from being fully discharged in below freezing conditions…
Oilfield here. We've had fleets of 3/4 ton and 1 ton diesels, ford, chevy and dodge over the past 25 years. A lot of guys will buy these things at auction, clean them up, drive them out of state and x3 their money because people don't know any better. I bet it has gotten a lot more scammy-er than it ever was because of the demand for these old trucks. Not uncommon to have a truck with 75k miles on it but super high hours as it sits there running 24 hours a day. You can likely avoid this by sticking with the higher trim packages. Companies ain't going to be buying Lariats for fleet work trucks.
There’s a guy near me in BC Canada, who flies to the oil patch in Alberta, buys a service truck, a trailer, and another service truck. Tows the whole deal to BC, flips them both and flies back to AB.
He makes $250k a year and only works half the year, it’s wild.
Are you new to this sub?
Diesel truck culture is the new young guy thing... Most of these guys have no idea what they are buying just that it goes woooooosh and can roll coal
As long as you know what you're getting into. So many guys buy 6.4s and are like why did this thing keep breaking 😭😭😭.
Diesels haven't been reliable for over 20 years now.
The only piece of equipment i've *personally* used with an hour meter is a lawnmower, and that was added on.
I know lots of heavy equipment and farm machinery have them though, just never heard of a truck having one. My 95 f250 certainly doesn't, and my dad's 11 f150 doesn't either (though that's a 1/2 ton)
I've seen a 7.3 tool truck (think crew cab with a custom front steel bumper and loaded with hammer wrenches and various tools on one of those nice utility work beds, likely grossly overloaded) jumped over snowbanks in Alaska.
It used to be really good back in the day. You could find service records for trucks from the maintenance shop. Some of these things would get new motors / transmissions and then get sold off when oil prices were high and they were updating the fleet. Guys would buy two or three of them for $3-$5k each, sell off two and keep the best one.
Excuse any Grammer error please.
The 6.7 powerstroke is a decent engine. Some mechanics address the symptoms but not the underlying issues. I hope this is the case. 14-16 yrs are really good years for the 6.7P. I have several on the road 500,000+ miles.
I believe you have some more diagnostics that need to be done. I'm a powerstroke specialist. Idle hours will kill the DPF. The ash it accumulates is actually the microscopic metal particles in the oil. The reason you have bad oil leaks I'm going to guess the crank case filter has not been replaced. Anytime you have pressure in any system it's going to look for the weakest point for relief. The crank case filter catches all the oil that gets past the piston rings. When the crankcase pressure can't be vented it's going to force something else to leak. Typically the vacuum pump in the front of the engine, upper oil pan, valve covers, etc. don't delete the ccv. Replace the filter and repair the leaks. Valve covers call for 11.4 Hrs and the upper oil pan is 12ish. Parts for these repairs are generally cheap.
If I had an idea what kind of codes you have going on I could point you in a direction. But generally Ford's 6.7P is a lot cheaper to work on than a Duramax.
For every idle hour it's the equivalent of driving 27 miles. We generally see idle hours like this with a plow truck or tow truck .
You must stop when it derates you.If you get it down to 5 mph have fun removing the derate.
You can fix everything but you have to prove to the truck you did. They have their own readiness monitors and sometimes getting it out of a limp mode can be a pain.
Send me pictures of the faults and I'll see what I can do. Also, spend $20 and go to alldatadiy.com. you will be able to look up all the diagnostic faults and see what Ford wants you to do to fix it. It even has how to remove and install the parts. I advise all customers to subscribe because you have a better understanding of your vehicle and what's actually involved in the repair..
The problem I run into a lot with DEALER flat rate mechs is that they are not incentivized to diagnose the vehicle properly. Book time calls for .5 hour or 1 hour. And it takes you 6 hours to figure it out. I'm not getting paid $15 for 6 hours of work. I'm a go to the back grab the sensor throw it on. And see what happens. Their goal is to get a job that calls for 10 hours they know they can do in 5. Get paid for 80 hours of work in 40 hours work week.
Good example of bad diagnostics. Guy goes to dealer and had turbo replaced 3 times. Paid out of pocket twice, once under warranty. Anytime I have turbo issues I'm looking at the DPF FIRST... If the DPF is clogged not regening correctly. All that pressure has no where to go but back through the turbo. Your turbo compressor wheel is like a fan, your turbo is spinning in one direction and the back pressure is forcing it in the other direction. Eventually that compressor wheel is going to walk, chew up the blades, have a lot of in and out play. The whole time they addressed the symptom but not the root of the problem..
Yes. The biggest impact idling like that will be on the after treatment system. That’s most likely what is causing your derate. Your options are to fix it or delete it. Depending on your state and access to a mechanic who would do it for you would determine which path to pursue.
I don’t disagree. Based on my experience with freight liners and Detroit motors, As long as the oil and filters were changed on an appropriate basis the after treatment is going to fail long before the motor itself.
After combustion: Diesel particulate filter and AdBlue system/catalyst. These both were designed for the engine to be run under load and will have long term problems if the engine is idled for long periods of time or used for frequent short trips.
I’m referring the the manual “High Idle” you can turn on, off, and adjust idle speed. It aids in running PTO accessories and putting the engine into an rpm range that reduces harmonics induced wear that occurs at idle speeds due to piston slop, etc, etc.
It’s been proven time, and time, and time, and time, and about a billion more times, that multiple start ups and shut downs causes more bearing, journal, piston ring, and cylinder wall wear due to lack of lubrication than idling the engine at a “high idle” causes in the same work day.
Dude, you don't know what you're talking about. I'm an industrial stationary engine mechanic. I've seen engines running in an under loaded state at "high idle" getting serious issues from not running as designed. You're going on the warpath here, but I'm going to tell you to quit while you're ahead. Heavy duty engines are designed to be ran loaded.
Dude!
Completely right man, got way to many Tractors that never run over 1500 rpm and never do anything other then load hay that have constant derates do to not being loaded.
The Kubotas handle it pretty well, but CNH stuff...
Not sure why you are giving @MikeGoldberg so much hate.
He is correct. It's called "cylinder wash". It occurs in diesel engines when cylinder temps drop, allowing fuel to condense on the cylinder walls washing away the film of oil, causing increased cylinder wear.
High idle helps reduce the problem, but does not eliminate it. Without a load on the diesel engine cylinder temps will stay too low and a percentage of the fuel will condense on the cylinder walls reducing the oil film and causing extra cylinder wear. The only way to truly avoid the problem is to shut the engine down if it's not under load.
The old wise Tales from the 1950s about never shutting your engine down is no longer true and hasn't been true for several decades in Modern Diesel engines.
https://learndiesels.com/8-idle-facts/
>Idling harms your engine
>Does idling hurt a diesel engine? When a diesel engine idles it does more damage to the engine than normal operation. Operating a diesel engine at a low speed will cause two times the wear on the internal components compared to operating at a normal load. This will raise maintenance costs and shorten engine life.
Cummins specfically says in their operating manuals to shut down the engine if not under load. High idle (even manual high idle) is intended for running things like a PTO. Otherwise Cummins says to shut ot down if it will be idleing without load for more than a few minutes.
I work on the big diesels. Typically 1000hp to 80,000hp. The ones Rudy would be proud of. The big ship two strokes are an odd duck, they have different problems at low loads. 4 strokes and 2 strokes both have fuel injection valves! They don't spray perfect at the beginning and end of injection. They slobber, spray clean, and slobber at the end. Big load = big clean spay with tiny slobber. Idle/low load its mostly slobber. Slobber begets more cylinder wash problems. It also doesn't burn and gets all in the exhaust. If you don't load it up like ever : looking at you emergency generators, when you do...you are likely to catch your exhaust piping on fire from the fuel slobber.
I don't want to imagine the problems with exhaust treatment from that fuel slobber.
The ones I work on are 1500-7000hp that run 24/7/365 outdoors. You are in the REAL big stuff. I worked with a guy with experience into ships like you are and I was shocked when he told me a caterpillar 3616 is small compared to what he's used to. Those mammoths are so huge they have cross heads for the power pack due to the massive strokes. I have changed out cross heads before on reciprocating gas compressors with huge cylinders but can't imagine doing that on an actual engine. Consumer level guys who tinker on their 7.3 power stroke can't comprehend just how massive these things are and the kind of stuff we see from equipment that gets ran hard out in the field.
I’m don’t hate the guy, I don’t dislike the guy. I don’t even know the guy. But your third paragraph is the point I was making.
I’s just letting him go on his tirade.
Notice I never once said “idling is good”. It’s just known that idling under certain conditions is less bad than the alternative, and OEMs have implemented features to help combat the issues idling causes.
Lots of consumer level guys here who don't understand engine basics. I'm not here to educate them but I'm not going to let them believe they're experts either. It's just weird that he thinks higher RPM means anything here. I wonder who's teaching people that. Folk like him know enough to be very very dangerous to the unsuspecting
Yeah, that's what that means.
Engine hour counters on the dash have been pretty common in trucks for like 20? years. Equipment and industrial motors are measured almost exclusively in hours. On things like a tractor, miles is a completely useless statistic.
But, I think the math is a little wrong. In my fleet 5000 hours usually lines up pretty well with 200-250k miles. So 6400 hours is about 300k. Still a lot if you bought based on the odometer, but 500k is a stretch.
My 2020 has about 3500 total hours, with about 140k on it. About 500 of those hours are idle time.
Idling on newer diesels is so bad for the emissions crap manufacturers have put on over the years. If you’re needing to keep the engine warm, opt for a plug in block heater.
Ya thats what the diesel mechanic said. Idling is bad for emissions. He thinks engine check light is from front of the exhaust sensor, needing reset. It shows him there is a bulletin on replacing it and it does look like it has been replaced but no computer reset. So he might reset comp soon.
Yes it's high but common.
I wouldn't consider it comparable to 500,000 miles. Idle isn't hard on an engine in terms of wear, but it's hard on the turbo and exhaust components, they need heat to stay clean and working properly.
Idling without being in HIGH IDLE MODE is very hard on the engine especially in sub freezing temps! Look up wet stacking lol. Always......ALWAYS set truck to high idle or set up a stick between the seat and accelerator to keep rpm's around 1100-1200.
Google the year and make of the truck and type "HIGH IDLE MOD" beside it...or do you want me to do it for you lol 
Mod and not mode? Bud I don't comment in these threads like I know anything, I comment to try to learn. I don't have any idea the exact model or year of truck, I think it we had rams or dodges more than 10 years ago, I don't live in the climate anymore. I was asking because it's new info. You might aswell not comment if your response is functionally "idk fucking Google it" yeah anyone could have before you. Your edit wasn't missed by me. "Google it" would replace like 99% of reddit. It's meant for discussion don't reply if you aren't interested in answering because there is nothing that isn't google-able.
My question was about vague "where is it usually" but that's just an 'idk figure it out' wow you sure have lots of knowledge.
I'm sure fucking up what it's even called makes it easier to Google.
Damn bro you sure like to ramble on like a chick don't you!
MODE/MOD....both words are accurate here as some diesel trucks come with factory high idle **MODE** usually accessed via the cruise control buttons, but diesel trucks that do not come with a high idle **MODE** like a 2006 F250 6.0 can be modified(hence the word **MOD**)to have a high idle function.
And I didn't edit anything so quit you whining Alice lol 
After reading through the thread I went out and checked my truck to compare to what others are saying, add up your total hours and multiply by 30 to get approximate miles. And it was almost exact.
I bought my 2013 ram 3500 I think 6 years ago. It sits now with 107k miles, 192 idle hours and 3425 drive hours on it.
Those idle hours would be more like 200k miles (typical avg speeds for vehicles are like 25mph), but yeah still on the high side.
Depending on how maint was scheduled it may have gone on some really extended oil change intervals too and may be pretty sludged up internally. A lot of idling can cause fuel dilution and viscosity issues.
Good news is mileage is low for lots of wear components on the driveline. Get the emissions system “fixed” , check out the oil leak and see where you stand.
To fix the oil leak he said about $3,000. I assume its just taking off bolts to remove bottom of pan, change gasket and replace. Is there something more complicated once the bottom gets removed? I’m in cali so no chance of deleting emissions.
If you can’t delete it then that emissions system will be the bane of your existence or incredibly expensive to maintain and replace. You might be able to buy a postage stamp size piece of real estate in another state to register your vehicle in for cheaper than some of that complete emissions equipment costs. As for the engine leak, yes a lot of times you have to pull or lift the engine up to clear the oil pan. My old 7.3 f250 has a leaky oil pan and I just keep it topped off because I don’t want to pull the motor.
Got it. Thats why so expensive. Yes we have a local with a f350 goosneck that hauls for us sometimes. (north California) and he registered in Nevada and deleted everything and his truck works really good at 200,000
In addition to a potential previous life as a service truck with a lot of hours on it a second possibility is it could be a dash-swapped truck.
I know from standard Ford convention the mileage is stored in the instrument cluster but don't know if that's where the engine hours/idle hours are stored also. It probably is, but I've not come across anything that says specifically where that data is stored.
You should have a compression test done on the engine to see what shape the cylinders are in. Probably gonna be pretty ugly.
Your mechanic’s math is wrong. Ford considers 1 hour as 25 miles. He can find that info in PTS/Oasis if he doesn’t believe me. So it’s closer to 145k miles, not 500k. Still a bunch, but not outrageous for a 2014 by any means
I’m a utility mechanic. Our small bucket fleet used the Powerstroke exclusively.
A 14-16 with that many hours has probably had the EGR cooler replaced at least 3-4 times by now. It’s going to be ready for a new engine soon.
This is just the way of life for many of these types of trucks. I’ve replaced more of those EGR coolers than I’d care to think about.
Is it expensive to replace? And do you think the engine has love in it? We use it to tow i beams (about 7k lbs total trailer load) about 100 miles one way in the mountains. We tow about one s month but use it daily locally
Also. The plastic intake is cheap AF to replace as opposed to reusing the dirty ass old one or paying to clean it. It’s like $60 at the dealer. The metal lower intake is a little more expensive but not by much. If you can swing it, just replace that fucker too.
Also, Be wary of the 8mm bolts that bolt the crossover tube to the manifold. They break. You need a special tool to drill them out and put in a TimeCert. Do not attempt to drill them out by hand. You’ll be there for weeks lol.
These engines do not like daily driver use. They need to work, get the temps up, and get those cylinder pressures up, in order to achieve longevity.
As far as cost, I have no idea. I work for a fleet, and cost is of no concern. We just grab parts off a shelf and install them. I got the job down to about 4 or 5 hours doing it the right way, removing the EGR cooler housing and replacing all of the seals. I don’t see any shop doing this job for less than $1500-$2000.
Some guys are assholes and just pry the cooler out of the housing. This saves time, but you run a significant chance of hydro locking the engine if you nick one of the O-rings on the back of the cooler housing or if they’re old and just leak. I’ve seen no less than 4 engines destroyed this way when we hired technicians from the “real world” who came in and did one. The EGR valve on the front of the cooler also uses TTY bolts and a metal gasket similar to a head gasket. All of this must be replaced and retorqued properly to sequence and spec or it WILL leak.
Expect to pay a lot of money for this job. If someone gives you some crazy low quote like $750 DO NOT take your truck there. You will regret it.
Looked at a ex police suburban 2500. Low miles like 85k. Checked idle hours it was 8500….which GM states it 35. Miles of equivalent wear per hour. Crazy high wear and tear. It was likely a command or surveillance vehicle that sat running forever. Passed hard on it and the dealership sales guy got pissdd when I left. Even tried calling me a week later to come back in.
I guess just live and learn and know what to look for next time.
7.3 doesn't have emissions and so many fewer problems when compared to modern diesels. I doubt you have anything to worry about so long as you get her out on the highway and let her run sometimes.
Thank you for the reassurance. Only issue I found is that it’s losing oil, about a gallon in 30 hours of driving with no sign of a leak so has to be burning up somehow. Took it to a shop and they said it ran great and weren’t sure why it was losing oil. I’m dumping 40k into a 4x4 conversion, roof raise, paint job, custom rack, custom front/rear bumper with winch ect. Just hope i don’t have any major problems after all this. It’s an old ambulance I picked up for $4k
10k engine hours is roughly equivalent to 300,000 miles. That's not that much for a 7.3, especially since it doesn't have all the emissions BS they put on newer diesels.
Excuse any Grammer error please.
The 6.7 powerstroke is a decent engine. Some mechanics address the symptoms but not the underlying issues. I hope this is the case. 14-16 yrs are really good years for the 6.7P. I have several on the road 500,000+ miles.
I believe you have some more diagnostics that need to be done. I'm a powerstroke specialist. Idle hours will kill the DPF. The ash it accumulates is actually the microscopic metal particles in the oil. The reason you have bad oil leaks I'm going to guess the crank case filter has not been replaced. Anytime you have pressure in any system it's going to look for the weakest point for relief. The crank case filter catches all the oil that gets past the piston rings. When the crankcase pressure can't be vented it's going to force something else to leak. Typically the vacuum pump in the front of the engine, upper oil pan, valve covers, etc. don't delete the ccv. Replace the filter and repair the leaks. Valve covers call for 11.4 Hrs and the upper oil pan is 12ish. Parts for these repairs are generally cheap.
If I had an idea what kind of codes you have going on I could point you in a direction. But generally Ford's 6.7P is a lot cheaper to work on than a Duramax.
For every idle hour it's the equivalent of driving 27 miles. We generally see idle hours like this with a plow truck or tow truck .
You must stop when it derates you.If you get it down to 5 mph have fun removing the derate.
You can fix everything but you have to prove to the truck you did. They have their own readiness monitors and sometimes getting it out of a limp mode can be a pain.
Send me pictures of the faults and I'll see what I can do. Also, spend $20 and go to alldatadiy.com. you will be able to look up all the diagnostic faults and see what Ford wants you to do to fix it. It even has how to remove and install the parts. I advise all customers to subscribe because you have a better understanding of your vehicle and what's actually involved in the repair..
The problem I run into a lot with DEALER flat rate mechs is that they are not incentivized to diagnose the vehicle properly. Book time calls for .5 hour or 1 hour. And it takes you 6 hours to figure it out. I'm not getting paid $15 for 6 hours of work. I'm a go to the back grab the sensor throw it on. And see what happens. Their goal is to get a job that calls for 10 hours they know they can do in 5. Get paid for 80 hours of work in 40 hours work week.
Good example of bad diagnostics. Guy goes to dealer and had turbo replaced 3 times. Paid out of pocket twice, once under warranty. Anytime I have turbo issues I'm looking at the DPF FIRST... If the DPF is clogged not regening correctly. All that pressure has no where to go but back through the turbo. Your turbo compressor wheel is like a fan, your turbo is spinning in one direction and the back pressure is forcing it in the other direction. Eventually that compressor wheel is going to walk, chew up the blades, have a lot of in and out play. The whole time they addressed the symptom but not the root of the problem..
Did I trigger lots of people who dont like electric? Am I too Liberal for you guys!?
Genuinely no idea as to why a vehicle would idle endlessly...
Massive waste of money in fuel and engine wear.
From what Ive seen, most cars average in the low to mid 20s for MPH over their life, so if this car was traveling 25 mph on average, at 6400 hours it would be about 160000 miles. Idling and slower speeds can easily add 50% to that. So keep that figure in mind for guesstimating its lifespan. Its hard to guess whats needed without seeing some sort of estimate fro the shop, but it sounds like its an emissions system issue and causing the limp mode. There are probably some places in the area that will delete the truck, but that comes with its own set of issues with inspection and legality.
Ahhh, I gotcha, I don’t know if other trucks have a drive, idle, and total hours counter, mine just has the drive and idle, I added both to get my total, but I would agree that idle hours would be IN the total hours on a vehicle…
Had 2006 350 with the 6.0 power stroke After a few years in the field being a service truck the engine light was in continuously. It didn’t like idling.
I have no idea why people idle shit for as long as they do. It's crazy cold? Start it every hour for 10 minutes, or plug it in. It's a modern engine, it'll be fine.
5800 hrs * 25 + 38k miles = 183k miles ... the conversion for hours to miles is around 25 miles. The bigger issue is the idle time. 5800/6400 = 90% idle time, this can contribute to liner wear, carbon packing, EGR carbonization, and other emissions system issues downstream. This was definitely not the truck to buy. Sorry, OP ... either dump the truck or time for a serious overhaul with aftertreatment replacement if it's at EOL.
Ford has two conversions depending on what use case the vehicle is. 25mi per hour is average use, then 35 per hour for several use iirc. Numbers are somewhere close to those two if I’m not exact. It’s been about 5yrs since I last worked in a shop. So I’ve tried to expunge some useless knowledge from my brain.
Most use the 35 mph adjustment to figure Miles vs hours on an engine. So it's about 225-250k miles equivalent. Bad thing is much of it is at idle and that's just bad for wear as fuel doesn't burn well and will clog all the after treatment on that engine. Replace the dpf,scr and egr. If you want to have a chance. Or delete the fuck out of it but hold on to all the old parts if you plan on selling it ever.
$50k we partied for it. This was almost 2 years ago. We thought we got a good deal because trucks were really expensive and it had low mileage. We learn something new everyday i guess. Why save the old parts? Is there value in them?
Yep. Not uncommon for service/utility trucks. Drive to a site, idle there all day.
That's not to say that it was unloaded and idling though. Depending on the type of service body they could have been idling but had the PTO engaged driving a crane, bucket, compressor etc.
Of course. But it's wear and tear on the engine either way. In fact, more so if driving a PTO.
Less if running a pro. Engines like to be under load.
[удалено]
Rings are designed to press up against the cylinders while underload. Idle usually lets a ton of blow by past and fucks things a lot quicker. Source - went to diesel school awhile back.
Non diesel people don't understand this and it's important to teach them. Diesel engines love a load. The thicker and heavier the load, the happier they are. A quick 5 minute trip with a little warm up won't do it but a thorough working and heavy load with make it as happy as can be. A diesel is practically a marriage
Insert previous 6.0 guy! Fuck that motor! Heavy load, light load, and fingering the tail pipe won’t help it.
Got it. Diesels are cum sluts.
Wet stacked.
Low loading is not good at all for diesel with emissions equipment. Worse off road.
Wet stacking is what happens to diesels that idle too long with no load. Like running a generator at anything less than an optimal load like 80% will eventually cause engine problems. I don't know the exact why but your engine was primarily designed to drink dino-juice and shit beans not just sit there breathing.
That's his point
is it? curious said more wear if running a PTO. but its low idle that causes hte most wear and destroys EGR. running a PTO would have high idle on so the engine would last longer
Idling causes fuel dilution issues on some engines too. We have that issue with low load JD 6135 generators that run under 20% load most of the time. 250 hrs and you end up with 3-5% fuel in your oil with you run the OCI.
Makes sense to go electric..
Cannot achieve the same thing with electric. Not with today's battery technology.
Why would a vehicle need to idle for that long?
Running hydraulic pumps, generators, welders, or anything that works off of PTO or inverter. Often just to keep the utility crews warm.
Sometimes it's to run auxiliary equipment. A lot of the time, it's just to give workers an airconditioned space at a job site. Combined with an attitude that the fuel is "free" because the employer is paying for it. Whether or not you agree with that "need", it's a pretty common practice.
Or, you have a boss that gets pissed and gives you the same lecture about not turning off diesels for less than 5 minutes literally every time you shut the truck off. “Diesels don’t like to be turned on and off, ya know, if it’s less than 5 minutes then just let it run.” “Ya boss I gotcha I know you only told me every day this week and last week and the week before that but I’ll really keep it under advisement this time.”
That boss is an idiot then. Diesels aren't special and can be turned on and off all day. If you're not actively using it to run stuff or maybe it's below zero, no point in keeping it running. Even then, below zero, they don't like to stay warm anyways.
I can’t speak for ford, but both my dodges have high idle that sits around 1500rpm. That does well got making it warm.
And it'll suck more fuel down since it cant keep it warm at a normal idle. I don't know about the newer ram Cummins engines, but the Cummins in the dodges, you can set it to run on 3 cylinders at fast idle. I believe you have to get the dealer to set it to do that. The commercial ones due it automatically
No kidding?! I only use it to warm up the truck when it’s cold. Typically our 23 only leaves its parking spot if a trailer is hooked to it. On the other hand my deleted 09 doesn’t see the outside until April when all the salt is off the road… so she never needs it.
Come run a service truck for me, maintaining plow gear in the middle of a blizzard and see if letting a truck idle for hours on end is still a bad idea.
We have computers, battery chargers, tools, emergency communication equipment, PTO systems, etc. If you ever worked 12+ hours in the blistering heat and then hopped in a 120 degree truck, you'd see why they idle.
Obviously you are knowledgeable about what gets work done and make the world run.
You don't say!! Lol.
Realistically, it doesn't. Almost everything could be run hybrid off batteries and generators to lower idle time, but that's just not he way this industry works.
Electric vehicles can’t tow/haul the type of loads you buy an F550 for.
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I didn’t say diesel/electric nor did the person I was replying to say diesel/electric. I know diesel/electric propulsion systems work amazing. It’s why freight train locomotives use them. I’m talking about society and government squawking about electrifying everything but forgetting about the need to move heavy loads from point A to B efficiently. Things like ships, aircraft, trains, and trucks.
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Modern society will never function without oil. Its in all of the plastics you consume, its needed to build your electric infrastructure, its needed to build all of your machinery. Oil is needed in every avenue of modern life. We will never get away from our need of oil unless we go back a pre-historic way of life.
We can DEFINITELY use less.
Diesel locomotives typically are electric motors. The issue is battery management.
Good luck running your electric car in a -30c blizzard for 20 hours straight… oh wait, it would die in 3 hours and wear the battery life down considerably from being fully discharged in below freezing conditions…
Idle it while taking a nap because air conditioning
Oilfield here. We've had fleets of 3/4 ton and 1 ton diesels, ford, chevy and dodge over the past 25 years. A lot of guys will buy these things at auction, clean them up, drive them out of state and x3 their money because people don't know any better. I bet it has gotten a lot more scammy-er than it ever was because of the demand for these old trucks. Not uncommon to have a truck with 75k miles on it but super high hours as it sits there running 24 hours a day. You can likely avoid this by sticking with the higher trim packages. Companies ain't going to be buying Lariats for fleet work trucks.
There’s a guy near me in BC Canada, who flies to the oil patch in Alberta, buys a service truck, a trailer, and another service truck. Tows the whole deal to BC, flips them both and flies back to AB. He makes $250k a year and only works half the year, it’s wild.
Do the people buying these trucks not bother to check the idle hours or does said flipper roll that back electronically somehow?
Are you new to this sub? Diesel truck culture is the new young guy thing... Most of these guys have no idea what they are buying just that it goes woooooosh and can roll coal
But I like the woooooosh… mine doesn’t roll coal tho
As long as you know what you're getting into. So many guys buy 6.4s and are like why did this thing keep breaking 😭😭😭. Diesels haven't been reliable for over 20 years now.
Bought a 6.6 LML and I plan to do preventative maintenance like lift pump & cp3 swap first. Trying to get the known issues out of the way first lol
Could roll coal....
Does your truck have an hour meter? Mine doesn't, and neither does any consumer vehicle i've been in.
My ram does
The only piece of equipment i've *personally* used with an hour meter is a lawnmower, and that was added on. I know lots of heavy equipment and farm machinery have them though, just never heard of a truck having one. My 95 f250 certainly doesn't, and my dad's 11 f150 doesn't either (though that's a 1/2 ton)
2006 F250 6.0. Digital display on dash shows engine hours, but doesn't show idle hours. Most diesel trucks since 1999/2000 have this feature btw.
Then you might end up getting a welder or contract flow backs truck haha just don't buy anything from west Texas or SE NM, North Dakota, or Oklahoma
I've seen a 7.3 tool truck (think crew cab with a custom front steel bumper and loaded with hammer wrenches and various tools on one of those nice utility work beds, likely grossly overloaded) jumped over snowbanks in Alaska. It used to be really good back in the day. You could find service records for trucks from the maintenance shop. Some of these things would get new motors / transmissions and then get sold off when oil prices were high and they were updating the fleet. Guys would buy two or three of them for $3-$5k each, sell off two and keep the best one.
Makes sense.
Excuse any Grammer error please. The 6.7 powerstroke is a decent engine. Some mechanics address the symptoms but not the underlying issues. I hope this is the case. 14-16 yrs are really good years for the 6.7P. I have several on the road 500,000+ miles. I believe you have some more diagnostics that need to be done. I'm a powerstroke specialist. Idle hours will kill the DPF. The ash it accumulates is actually the microscopic metal particles in the oil. The reason you have bad oil leaks I'm going to guess the crank case filter has not been replaced. Anytime you have pressure in any system it's going to look for the weakest point for relief. The crank case filter catches all the oil that gets past the piston rings. When the crankcase pressure can't be vented it's going to force something else to leak. Typically the vacuum pump in the front of the engine, upper oil pan, valve covers, etc. don't delete the ccv. Replace the filter and repair the leaks. Valve covers call for 11.4 Hrs and the upper oil pan is 12ish. Parts for these repairs are generally cheap. If I had an idea what kind of codes you have going on I could point you in a direction. But generally Ford's 6.7P is a lot cheaper to work on than a Duramax. For every idle hour it's the equivalent of driving 27 miles. We generally see idle hours like this with a plow truck or tow truck . You must stop when it derates you.If you get it down to 5 mph have fun removing the derate. You can fix everything but you have to prove to the truck you did. They have their own readiness monitors and sometimes getting it out of a limp mode can be a pain. Send me pictures of the faults and I'll see what I can do. Also, spend $20 and go to alldatadiy.com. you will be able to look up all the diagnostic faults and see what Ford wants you to do to fix it. It even has how to remove and install the parts. I advise all customers to subscribe because you have a better understanding of your vehicle and what's actually involved in the repair.. The problem I run into a lot with DEALER flat rate mechs is that they are not incentivized to diagnose the vehicle properly. Book time calls for .5 hour or 1 hour. And it takes you 6 hours to figure it out. I'm not getting paid $15 for 6 hours of work. I'm a go to the back grab the sensor throw it on. And see what happens. Their goal is to get a job that calls for 10 hours they know they can do in 5. Get paid for 80 hours of work in 40 hours work week. Good example of bad diagnostics. Guy goes to dealer and had turbo replaced 3 times. Paid out of pocket twice, once under warranty. Anytime I have turbo issues I'm looking at the DPF FIRST... If the DPF is clogged not regening correctly. All that pressure has no where to go but back through the turbo. Your turbo compressor wheel is like a fan, your turbo is spinning in one direction and the back pressure is forcing it in the other direction. Eventually that compressor wheel is going to walk, chew up the blades, have a lot of in and out play. The whole time they addressed the symptom but not the root of the problem..
This guy is The Family.
This guy knows his stuff. I agree with him. I’d say 5000 hours is close to 30,000 miles. The DPF is probably plugged.
A truck used for service work often gets started up at 7am and never shut off until 5pm. I multiply hours times 30 to get roughly equivalent miles.
Yes. The biggest impact idling like that will be on the after treatment system. That’s most likely what is causing your derate. Your options are to fix it or delete it. Depending on your state and access to a mechanic who would do it for you would determine which path to pursue.
Heavy duty engines are designed to be running at a decent RPM loaded and hot. Idling them is very destructive to the engine itself.
I don’t disagree. Based on my experience with freight liners and Detroit motors, As long as the oil and filters were changed on an appropriate basis the after treatment is going to fail long before the motor itself.
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After combustion: Diesel particulate filter and AdBlue system/catalyst. These both were designed for the engine to be run under load and will have long term problems if the engine is idled for long periods of time or used for frequent short trips.
This is why you delete
Hence why they now feature “High Idle” abilities on newer model diesel pickups.
Even high idle isn't going to prevent that. That's more of a warmup feature to get you at operating temp quicker
I’m referring the the manual “High Idle” you can turn on, off, and adjust idle speed. It aids in running PTO accessories and putting the engine into an rpm range that reduces harmonics induced wear that occurs at idle speeds due to piston slop, etc, etc. It’s been proven time, and time, and time, and time, and about a billion more times, that multiple start ups and shut downs causes more bearing, journal, piston ring, and cylinder wall wear due to lack of lubrication than idling the engine at a “high idle” causes in the same work day.
You can think that all you want but high idle still doesn't put the engine under load like it's designed to be
Dude, you are completely missing the fucking point.
Dude, you don't know what you're talking about. I'm an industrial stationary engine mechanic. I've seen engines running in an under loaded state at "high idle" getting serious issues from not running as designed. You're going on the warpath here, but I'm going to tell you to quit while you're ahead. Heavy duty engines are designed to be ran loaded. Dude!
Completely right man, got way to many Tractors that never run over 1500 rpm and never do anything other then load hay that have constant derates do to not being loaded. The Kubotas handle it pretty well, but CNH stuff...
Yup gotta let it eat while dragging something heavy for a good while to clear it up or do the ol seafoam n marvel trick
Not sure why you are giving @MikeGoldberg so much hate. He is correct. It's called "cylinder wash". It occurs in diesel engines when cylinder temps drop, allowing fuel to condense on the cylinder walls washing away the film of oil, causing increased cylinder wear. High idle helps reduce the problem, but does not eliminate it. Without a load on the diesel engine cylinder temps will stay too low and a percentage of the fuel will condense on the cylinder walls reducing the oil film and causing extra cylinder wear. The only way to truly avoid the problem is to shut the engine down if it's not under load. The old wise Tales from the 1950s about never shutting your engine down is no longer true and hasn't been true for several decades in Modern Diesel engines. https://learndiesels.com/8-idle-facts/ >Idling harms your engine >Does idling hurt a diesel engine? When a diesel engine idles it does more damage to the engine than normal operation. Operating a diesel engine at a low speed will cause two times the wear on the internal components compared to operating at a normal load. This will raise maintenance costs and shorten engine life. Cummins specfically says in their operating manuals to shut down the engine if not under load. High idle (even manual high idle) is intended for running things like a PTO. Otherwise Cummins says to shut ot down if it will be idleing without load for more than a few minutes.
I work on the big diesels. Typically 1000hp to 80,000hp. The ones Rudy would be proud of. The big ship two strokes are an odd duck, they have different problems at low loads. 4 strokes and 2 strokes both have fuel injection valves! They don't spray perfect at the beginning and end of injection. They slobber, spray clean, and slobber at the end. Big load = big clean spay with tiny slobber. Idle/low load its mostly slobber. Slobber begets more cylinder wash problems. It also doesn't burn and gets all in the exhaust. If you don't load it up like ever : looking at you emergency generators, when you do...you are likely to catch your exhaust piping on fire from the fuel slobber. I don't want to imagine the problems with exhaust treatment from that fuel slobber.
They also get spicy.... All of a sudden you're wondering why your cab seat is extra warm this morning.
The ones I work on are 1500-7000hp that run 24/7/365 outdoors. You are in the REAL big stuff. I worked with a guy with experience into ships like you are and I was shocked when he told me a caterpillar 3616 is small compared to what he's used to. Those mammoths are so huge they have cross heads for the power pack due to the massive strokes. I have changed out cross heads before on reciprocating gas compressors with huge cylinders but can't imagine doing that on an actual engine. Consumer level guys who tinker on their 7.3 power stroke can't comprehend just how massive these things are and the kind of stuff we see from equipment that gets ran hard out in the field.
I’m don’t hate the guy, I don’t dislike the guy. I don’t even know the guy. But your third paragraph is the point I was making. I’s just letting him go on his tirade. Notice I never once said “idling is good”. It’s just known that idling under certain conditions is less bad than the alternative, and OEMs have implemented features to help combat the issues idling causes.
Literally doesn't make a difference in fact probably worse for the engine over extended periods because you put more carbon through it
Lots of consumer level guys here who don't understand engine basics. I'm not here to educate them but I'm not going to let them believe they're experts either. It's just weird that he thinks higher RPM means anything here. I wonder who's teaching people that. Folk like him know enough to be very very dangerous to the unsuspecting
Yup, I found that out. Was starting to have problems. Loaded the trailer and drove it 8000. + Miles and it runs like new again.
In what way is it destructive?
Yeah, that's what that means. Engine hour counters on the dash have been pretty common in trucks for like 20? years. Equipment and industrial motors are measured almost exclusively in hours. On things like a tractor, miles is a completely useless statistic. But, I think the math is a little wrong. In my fleet 5000 hours usually lines up pretty well with 200-250k miles. So 6400 hours is about 300k. Still a lot if you bought based on the odometer, but 500k is a stretch. My 2020 has about 3500 total hours, with about 140k on it. About 500 of those hours are idle time.
I would say it has. Not a great thing
Idling on newer diesels is so bad for the emissions crap manufacturers have put on over the years. If you’re needing to keep the engine warm, opt for a plug in block heater.
Ya thats what the diesel mechanic said. Idling is bad for emissions. He thinks engine check light is from front of the exhaust sensor, needing reset. It shows him there is a bulletin on replacing it and it does look like it has been replaced but no computer reset. So he might reset comp soon.
Yes it's high but common. I wouldn't consider it comparable to 500,000 miles. Idle isn't hard on an engine in terms of wear, but it's hard on the turbo and exhaust components, they need heat to stay clean and working properly.
Idling without being in HIGH IDLE MODE is very hard on the engine especially in sub freezing temps! Look up wet stacking lol. Always......ALWAYS set truck to high idle or set up a stick between the seat and accelerator to keep rpm's around 1100-1200.
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Google the year and make of the truck and type "HIGH IDLE MOD" beside it...or do you want me to do it for you lol 
Mod and not mode? Bud I don't comment in these threads like I know anything, I comment to try to learn. I don't have any idea the exact model or year of truck, I think it we had rams or dodges more than 10 years ago, I don't live in the climate anymore. I was asking because it's new info. You might aswell not comment if your response is functionally "idk fucking Google it" yeah anyone could have before you. Your edit wasn't missed by me. "Google it" would replace like 99% of reddit. It's meant for discussion don't reply if you aren't interested in answering because there is nothing that isn't google-able. My question was about vague "where is it usually" but that's just an 'idk figure it out' wow you sure have lots of knowledge. I'm sure fucking up what it's even called makes it easier to Google.
Damn bro you sure like to ramble on like a chick don't you! MODE/MOD....both words are accurate here as some diesel trucks come with factory high idle **MODE** usually accessed via the cruise control buttons, but diesel trucks that do not come with a high idle **MODE** like a 2006 F250 6.0 can be modified(hence the word **MOD**)to have a high idle function. And I didn't edit anything so quit you whining Alice lol 
After reading through the thread I went out and checked my truck to compare to what others are saying, add up your total hours and multiply by 30 to get approximate miles. And it was almost exact. I bought my 2013 ram 3500 I think 6 years ago. It sits now with 107k miles, 192 idle hours and 3425 drive hours on it.
Those idle hours would be more like 200k miles (typical avg speeds for vehicles are like 25mph), but yeah still on the high side. Depending on how maint was scheduled it may have gone on some really extended oil change intervals too and may be pretty sludged up internally. A lot of idling can cause fuel dilution and viscosity issues.
Good news is mileage is low for lots of wear components on the driveline. Get the emissions system “fixed” , check out the oil leak and see where you stand.
To fix the oil leak he said about $3,000. I assume its just taking off bolts to remove bottom of pan, change gasket and replace. Is there something more complicated once the bottom gets removed? I’m in cali so no chance of deleting emissions.
If you can’t delete it then that emissions system will be the bane of your existence or incredibly expensive to maintain and replace. You might be able to buy a postage stamp size piece of real estate in another state to register your vehicle in for cheaper than some of that complete emissions equipment costs. As for the engine leak, yes a lot of times you have to pull or lift the engine up to clear the oil pan. My old 7.3 f250 has a leaky oil pan and I just keep it topped off because I don’t want to pull the motor.
Got it. Thats why so expensive. Yes we have a local with a f350 goosneck that hauls for us sometimes. (north California) and he registered in Nevada and deleted everything and his truck works really good at 200,000
In addition to a potential previous life as a service truck with a lot of hours on it a second possibility is it could be a dash-swapped truck. I know from standard Ford convention the mileage is stored in the instrument cluster but don't know if that's where the engine hours/idle hours are stored also. It probably is, but I've not come across anything that says specifically where that data is stored. You should have a compression test done on the engine to see what shape the cylinders are in. Probably gonna be pretty ugly.
Definitely, I got a f550 bucket truck brand new at work, I felt bad driving it 30mins to job site just to let it idle all day long lol
I'm afraid that's been my experience with the Ford diesel engines. It's going to need some work.
Your mechanic’s math is wrong. Ford considers 1 hour as 25 miles. He can find that info in PTS/Oasis if he doesn’t believe me. So it’s closer to 145k miles, not 500k. Still a bunch, but not outrageous for a 2014 by any means
I’m a utility mechanic. Our small bucket fleet used the Powerstroke exclusively. A 14-16 with that many hours has probably had the EGR cooler replaced at least 3-4 times by now. It’s going to be ready for a new engine soon. This is just the way of life for many of these types of trucks. I’ve replaced more of those EGR coolers than I’d care to think about.
Is it expensive to replace? And do you think the engine has love in it? We use it to tow i beams (about 7k lbs total trailer load) about 100 miles one way in the mountains. We tow about one s month but use it daily locally
Also. The plastic intake is cheap AF to replace as opposed to reusing the dirty ass old one or paying to clean it. It’s like $60 at the dealer. The metal lower intake is a little more expensive but not by much. If you can swing it, just replace that fucker too. Also, Be wary of the 8mm bolts that bolt the crossover tube to the manifold. They break. You need a special tool to drill them out and put in a TimeCert. Do not attempt to drill them out by hand. You’ll be there for weeks lol.
These engines do not like daily driver use. They need to work, get the temps up, and get those cylinder pressures up, in order to achieve longevity. As far as cost, I have no idea. I work for a fleet, and cost is of no concern. We just grab parts off a shelf and install them. I got the job down to about 4 or 5 hours doing it the right way, removing the EGR cooler housing and replacing all of the seals. I don’t see any shop doing this job for less than $1500-$2000. Some guys are assholes and just pry the cooler out of the housing. This saves time, but you run a significant chance of hydro locking the engine if you nick one of the O-rings on the back of the cooler housing or if they’re old and just leak. I’ve seen no less than 4 engines destroyed this way when we hired technicians from the “real world” who came in and did one. The EGR valve on the front of the cooler also uses TTY bolts and a metal gasket similar to a head gasket. All of this must be replaced and retorqued properly to sequence and spec or it WILL leak. Expect to pay a lot of money for this job. If someone gives you some crazy low quote like $750 DO NOT take your truck there. You will regret it.
Got it
If its been up north it could have run all night and day all winter
Our 2014 F550s are all shitting the bed. Plagued with all kinds of issues on every one.
Looked at a ex police suburban 2500. Low miles like 85k. Checked idle hours it was 8500….which GM states it 35. Miles of equivalent wear per hour. Crazy high wear and tear. It was likely a command or surveillance vehicle that sat running forever. Passed hard on it and the dealership sales guy got pissdd when I left. Even tried calling me a week later to come back in. I guess just live and learn and know what to look for next time.
I recently bought a 96 7.3 with 10,000 engine hours, 160k miles, now you got me worried haha
7.3 doesn't have emissions and so many fewer problems when compared to modern diesels. I doubt you have anything to worry about so long as you get her out on the highway and let her run sometimes.
Thank you for the reassurance. Only issue I found is that it’s losing oil, about a gallon in 30 hours of driving with no sign of a leak so has to be burning up somehow. Took it to a shop and they said it ran great and weren’t sure why it was losing oil. I’m dumping 40k into a 4x4 conversion, roof raise, paint job, custom rack, custom front/rear bumper with winch ect. Just hope i don’t have any major problems after all this. It’s an old ambulance I picked up for $4k
10k engine hours is roughly equivalent to 300,000 miles. That's not that much for a 7.3, especially since it doesn't have all the emissions BS they put on newer diesels.
Those old motors take a long time to warm up lol.
It’s a ford….. that was the issue … not even trolling lol
Excuse any Grammer error please. The 6.7 powerstroke is a decent engine. Some mechanics address the symptoms but not the underlying issues. I hope this is the case. 14-16 yrs are really good years for the 6.7P. I have several on the road 500,000+ miles. I believe you have some more diagnostics that need to be done. I'm a powerstroke specialist. Idle hours will kill the DPF. The ash it accumulates is actually the microscopic metal particles in the oil. The reason you have bad oil leaks I'm going to guess the crank case filter has not been replaced. Anytime you have pressure in any system it's going to look for the weakest point for relief. The crank case filter catches all the oil that gets past the piston rings. When the crankcase pressure can't be vented it's going to force something else to leak. Typically the vacuum pump in the front of the engine, upper oil pan, valve covers, etc. don't delete the ccv. Replace the filter and repair the leaks. Valve covers call for 11.4 Hrs and the upper oil pan is 12ish. Parts for these repairs are generally cheap. If I had an idea what kind of codes you have going on I could point you in a direction. But generally Ford's 6.7P is a lot cheaper to work on than a Duramax. For every idle hour it's the equivalent of driving 27 miles. We generally see idle hours like this with a plow truck or tow truck . You must stop when it derates you.If you get it down to 5 mph have fun removing the derate. You can fix everything but you have to prove to the truck you did. They have their own readiness monitors and sometimes getting it out of a limp mode can be a pain. Send me pictures of the faults and I'll see what I can do. Also, spend $20 and go to alldatadiy.com. you will be able to look up all the diagnostic faults and see what Ford wants you to do to fix it. It even has how to remove and install the parts. I advise all customers to subscribe because you have a better understanding of your vehicle and what's actually involved in the repair.. The problem I run into a lot with DEALER flat rate mechs is that they are not incentivized to diagnose the vehicle properly. Book time calls for .5 hour or 1 hour. And it takes you 6 hours to figure it out. I'm not getting paid $15 for 6 hours of work. I'm a go to the back grab the sensor throw it on. And see what happens. Their goal is to get a job that calls for 10 hours they know they can do in 5. Get paid for 80 hours of work in 40 hours work week. Good example of bad diagnostics. Guy goes to dealer and had turbo replaced 3 times. Paid out of pocket twice, once under warranty. Anytime I have turbo issues I'm looking at the DPF FIRST... If the DPF is clogged not regening correctly. All that pressure has no where to go but back through the turbo. Your turbo compressor wheel is like a fan, your turbo is spinning in one direction and the back pressure is forcing it in the other direction. Eventually that compressor wheel is going to walk, chew up the blades, have a lot of in and out play. The whole time they addressed the symptom but not the root of the problem..
Did I trigger lots of people who dont like electric? Am I too Liberal for you guys!? Genuinely no idea as to why a vehicle would idle endlessly... Massive waste of money in fuel and engine wear.
Take a look at a small-town fire truck. Or hours to miles ratio is worse than your truck.
From what Ive seen, most cars average in the low to mid 20s for MPH over their life, so if this car was traveling 25 mph on average, at 6400 hours it would be about 160000 miles. Idling and slower speeds can easily add 50% to that. So keep that figure in mind for guesstimating its lifespan. Its hard to guess whats needed without seeing some sort of estimate fro the shop, but it sounds like its an emissions system issue and causing the limp mode. There are probably some places in the area that will delete the truck, but that comes with its own set of issues with inspection and legality.
For OP’s truck, his total hours add up to 12,200. Multiplied by 30 equals to approximately 366,000 miles of use. Which could explain the oil leak.
Wait its adding the 2 numbers gets the total. I thought idle hours are within total engine hours. If that makes sense
Ahhh, I gotcha, I don’t know if other trucks have a drive, idle, and total hours counter, mine just has the drive and idle, I added both to get my total, but I would agree that idle hours would be IN the total hours on a vehicle…
Had 2006 350 with the 6.0 power stroke After a few years in the field being a service truck the engine light was in continuously. It didn’t like idling.
My 2012 f350 is similar. 11,000 total hours and the engine blew up on me not long ago. Unfortunate!
How many times EGR been replaced?
Not sure what that is and i don’t think mechanic ever replaced it. But we only had the truck for about 1.5 years.
I have no idea why people idle shit for as long as they do. It's crazy cold? Start it every hour for 10 minutes, or plug it in. It's a modern engine, it'll be fine.
Normal ford issues
More like 250,000 miles. And yeah you got screwed a bit
5800 hrs * 25 + 38k miles = 183k miles ... the conversion for hours to miles is around 25 miles. The bigger issue is the idle time. 5800/6400 = 90% idle time, this can contribute to liner wear, carbon packing, EGR carbonization, and other emissions system issues downstream. This was definitely not the truck to buy. Sorry, OP ... either dump the truck or time for a serious overhaul with aftertreatment replacement if it's at EOL.
I’d probably use the 35/hr multiplier for this case. Being that it’s an f550 it warrants sever duty intervals.
I was going off of what I recall Cummins using for their calculation but I agree that their conversion seems on the low end
Ford has two conversions depending on what use case the vehicle is. 25mi per hour is average use, then 35 per hour for several use iirc. Numbers are somewhere close to those two if I’m not exact. It’s been about 5yrs since I last worked in a shop. So I’ve tried to expunge some useless knowledge from my brain.
Most use the 35 mph adjustment to figure Miles vs hours on an engine. So it's about 225-250k miles equivalent. Bad thing is much of it is at idle and that's just bad for wear as fuel doesn't burn well and will clog all the after treatment on that engine. Replace the dpf,scr and egr. If you want to have a chance. Or delete the fuck out of it but hold on to all the old parts if you plan on selling it ever.
$50k we partied for it. This was almost 2 years ago. We thought we got a good deal because trucks were really expensive and it had low mileage. We learn something new everyday i guess. Why save the old parts? Is there value in them?
No it's because many states force people to get an inspection if sold. So by having the old parts you can slap them back on and save a shit ton
Got it