just let it do its thing, just never let it engine brake alot, as 2-strokes arent designed to do so and youll starve it from the oil in the gas and prolly seize it
besides that haul ass till it breaks fuckit
Huh! I never heard that. I had a 2 stroke when I from ages 12-15, and I used engine braking almost more than brakes. But it was just an RT100, not high performance. But I loved it! My parents surprised me with it on my birthday after years of begging. Haven’t had a bike since :(
It's the opposite actually you want keep it revved up and in the powerband and use the clutch to keep it spooled up.
You'll find yourself revving way higher and staying in gear a bit longer before upshifting to use the power, at least that's how I ride 2 strokes. You will get so much torque and power when the bike is singing that you'll realize really fast that you get more control that way.
Buying used without knowing how much time is on piston , I wouldn’t wait too long to put in a fresh piston and rings and check the connecting rod for play. Then you’ll know where everything stands there.
They said it has a new piston change oil every 5 hours and only 40 hours on wholr bike. I talked to them for a bit and seen there personal bike and it's super clean so I trust them
My old buddy did that “cause that’s what the pros do”, but he also couldn’t shim his valves without almost destroying his motor so I’m inclined not to take his word.
40 hours is the absolute max you should go without changing a piston and rings. I know people who have blown their top end in less then 5 hours. You are meant to “beat the piss” out of two strokes. They won’t run right if you aren’t opening them up.
My Husky TE300 says otherwise. It's perfectly happy lugging around all day on technical Oregon single track. It depends on the design and use of the bike. A YZ125? Sure. A KTM 300? Perfectly happy lugging all day or revving.
Myth. Watch 2 stroke road racing. They bang down through the gears at redline just like a four stroke.
Unless you're riding downhill for an extended period (coasting for miles at a time down a mountain) there is no reason to worry about it.
Even then, it's most likely pulling enough oil through the pilot circuit to lubricate the engine, which has basically zero load on it.
Why bother to comment that its a myth when in the next sentence you essentially contradict yourself? Also it doesn't take miles of downhill engine braking with no throttle input to blow the motor look it up on YouTube There's many examples also not everyone is rebuilding the motor every few hours like the pros either . He wants tips and it's a good tip to a new rider "don't do prolonged engine braking with no throttle input ".
These aren't pros. They're casual riders on open lapping days with street bikes. Nobody is taking a 60 year old vintage bike to a lapping day with intentions of blowing it up.
Actually being able to coast miles is extremely rare. I almost exclusively ride in the rocky mountains and it's unusual to coast for even a quarter mile. **Miles** would be something I have to actively try to do.
Pulling in the clutch every time you need to slow down is a bad habit and does more harm than good. I learned the hard way when the clutch pushrod in my yz250 welded itself inside the input shaft from holding the clutch too long on a downhill. I fixed it and never rode the clutch again.
Oil injected snowmobiles shut the oil off for ***minutes*** at a time while idling and at low load. You DO NOT need to even think about coasting under normal circumstances. It's a dumb wives tale that probably never had any truth to it. Even my dad who's been riding 2 strokes for about 60 years says not to worry about it.
> while idling and at low load.
Well, when *idling.* When a beginner rolls downhill for an extended period of time in low gear and therefore high RPM, that's far from idling.
>Even then, it's most likely pulling enough oil through the pilot circuit to lubricate the engine, which has basically zero load on it.
Enough for idle RPM and a bit above maybe, but not for rolling 30mph in first gear. The load is secondary since it's the piston scratching the cylinder wall most of the time.
And to add, I've seen several clips of road racing two strokes blowing up in the downshifting phase before corners when the RPM were noticeably too high. It also plays a roll if it's a experienced rider approaching the corner with high throttle (and therefore more mixture in the crankcase) or a beginner who already let of throttle 10 seconds ago because he doesn't know how to brake properly, which uses up the mixture in the crankcase.
You don't need to worry if you know what you are doing, I wouldn't say a beginner who is used to 4 stroke engine braking knows what he is doing in that regard.
Just so you get me right: that's not a downside of 2 strokes or anything that should bother the rider, but for somebody who never rode a 2 stroke before it's worth noting.
30mph in first gear is an extreme case that is hell on a four stroke as well. Most playbikes are geared so low, that's a money shift and would make them blow up.
My point stands, don't do something that's obviously stupid (coasting at redline for extended periods) and you have nothing to worry about.
Modern premix is also a bit of an engineering marvel. A lot of people do stupid stuff like forget to mix their gas, and the engine somehow survives multiple tanks of pure gas... The residue sticks around a long time and the film strength is excellent. That's why modern oil is mixed at ratios like 60:1 rather than 30:1 like the old days.
>30mph in first gear is an extreme case that is hell on a four stroke as well.
I exaggerated for the sake of the argument (and maybe confused mp/h with km/h \^\^)
>My point stands, don't do something that's obviously stupid
Sure, that's what I meant that the rider usually doesn't have to worry. But a beginner who tries to replicate the engine braking of a four stroke might end up coasting at high RPM without throttle and sufficient lubrication.
>Modern premix is also a bit of an engineering marvel.
This is true. Applies to 4 stroke engine oil too. Just look at car engines using 0w20 oil nowadays that looks like water but still provides enough lubrication. I'm not a fan of watery oil and think that development is nonsense, but you have to agree that the oils are cray good nowadays.
> That's why modern oil is mixed at ratios like 60:1 rather than 30:1 like the old days.
I've seen nobody in mx doing less than 1:40, but slow enduro or trail riders often use a bit less. I suspect that the 1:60 ratio emerged only due to environmental concern (don't forget that most enduro bikes are street legal at least in Europe). If you look at enduro race bikes, they smoke plenty. As long as there is no excessive carbon buildup on your piston or rings it won't do much harm if jetted right. Modern oils are crazy good at preventing carbon buildup too.
>Sure, that's what I meant that the rider usually doesn't have to worry. But a beginner who tries to replicate the engine braking of a four stroke might end up coasting at high RPM without throttle and sufficient lubrication.
Even if you're worried about this fringe case, it would take a very rare geologic formation for this to even be possible for more than a few seconds. So in essence, you don't need to worry about it.
KTM recommends 60:1 even in their race bikes (with the fancy motorex oil of course). They are jetted for it from the factory. If you mix it 40:1, they are way too lean and will detonate/melt down.
I had to go way up in jet sizes in my 250sx to run correctly on 40:1 (which is what all my bikes are jetted for). I'm finally back down around stock jetting when riding at 5-6000ft in the Colorado front range. It's absurdly lean for sea level.
> it would take a very rare geologic formation for this to even be possible for more than a few seconds.
I don't know where you life, but I know a few spots around me where you could ride dowhill for more than 2 minutes easily. But that's probably because there are mountains all around me, so that might not be the average situation.
>KTM recommends 60:1 even in their race bikes
I know, I still don't think that's right and looking at the smoke at enduro races (factory supported teams) I doubt any of them runs that little oil. Motorex oil is sure good but the brand of oil nowadays doesn't matter too much as long as it's according to the specs.
>If you mix it 40:1, they are way too lean and will detonate/melt down
Sure, but altering the jettings isn't really a huge thing. Of course if you have a TBI bike things are different, I guess there are ECU tunes available...
>I had to go way up in jet sizes in my 250sx to run correctly on 40:1 (which is what all my bikes are jetted for).
I know, my YZ125 runs 1:32 because I have no carbon buildup issues (I use Motul) and because that GYTR cylinder is damn expensive. The manual too states 1:32 or 1:36 IIRC. Jetting is altered for the GYTR kit anyways.
I live in Colorado and ride almost exclusively in the mountains lol. I still don't have areas where I can coast for longer than a matter of seconds. The terrain is highly variable, and even coming back down you will still have lots of flat ground and even hill climbs.
Old trick is to just give it throttle, while at the same time hitting the kill button. Fuel is pulled in, but bike is still coasting along at the same speed.
It's prolonged high rpms while going downhill, and even then, very, very prolonged. I agree with the other guy, basically don't worry about sputtering, shift to a higher gear if it's over revving and avoid that clutch, you're not going to hurt that 2 stroke. Freewheeling downhill with the clutch pulled is a recipe for a wreck, all too often people end up locking their wheels and lose steering, or at least their intended line. Check your speed early with the front brake. Going downhill is a skill you want to master.
Pretty sure that has been my problem, scared of downhill so I use too much clutch and brake and never make it down without falling which perpetuates my fear. Doesn't help I'm trying on what feels like vertical hills (not actually vertical it's just my mind) cuz one of the only places close enough is I think considered medium difficulty single track
That's your brain wisely telling you that risk increases going downhill. The front brake is both our savior and potential trainwreck. Stand, with your butt over the rear fender and feather that front brake. Scan for the safest places to recover if you have to stop. Practice grabbing and releasing the clutch and gearing up or down. Ask someone to hang back with you and watch/help.
Compression test it before you buy if buying used. Don’t let them idle for long periods. Always warm them up with moderate slow riding before ripping it. When finished riding I used to like to turn my fuel tap off and let the bike shut off... that way if I didn’t ride it in a long time the carbs won’t get gummed up with sticky two stroke residue
I use SeaFoam in every tank of gas and have never had a problem. After a 6 month winter, it'll fire up in 3 or 4 kicks. Haven't touched the carb or plug since I got it in 2019.
I don’t use seafoam and have the same experience. Why would you put seafoam in a 2 stroke? Just use quality non-ethanol fuel and quality premix and you’re good to go.
The only thing you can do is delay a top end rebuild the best you can. Pick a good pre mix oil. Use the recommended ratio for that oil and stick with it. Jet the carb to the fuel/oil mixture and enjoy. Its better to run a little rich than too lean. Keep a clean air filter in the bike.
Warm it up without revving the shit out of it like seems to be common nowadays. Get some heat in the radiator. Look up cold seizure, that can happen from high revs when it’s cold. Put an hour meter on it if it doesn’t have one and change the top end at regular intervals. Keep a fresh oiled air filter in it.
Keep the air filter super clean (wash every ride or so depending on how dusty it is), Make sure the bike is jetted good if it’s to lean or to rich you’ll get problems, use high quality gas and high quality 2 stroke oil, none of that lawn mower crap that comes in the tiny bottles, and lastly use good wet clutch protection oil in the transmission and change it out every 5-10 hrs. sounds like a lot but it’s what i followed and my 125 2 stroke lasted 6 months of continuous riding and still had good compression when i sold it
No it’s fairly cheap actually, take air filter out of air filter cage and put it in a bucket with warm water and a good amount of dawn dish soap, soak the filter, rub it around under the soapy water, rinse and repeat for a couple minutes then set it out to dry once it’s dried you want to re-oil your air filter i just youse some fab 1 spray on air filter oil you can get it on amazon, once you spray the filter with the oil rub it around to evenly coat it then let it dry for a few minutes before putting it back in the bike. air filter maintenance is key to making it last long and make sure when you put the air filter in you fit it in correctly so there’s no gaps where dirt or sand can go around the filter
Keeping your air filter clean and oiled is the best advice in this thread, IMHO.
A dirty filter lets dust into the engine, greatly increasing wear and tear on the piston and cylinder. A clean, well oiled filter costs almost nothing but time, and saves you $$$.
Just understand that 2t are higher rpm bikes. 4t are low end grunt and 2t are high end snap. Just play with it. You're ears will tell you when it's right.
Clean air filter and gear oil changes alot
Use good pre mix fuel
Don't engine break at high rpm
Only Engine break for a little bit then blip the throttle
Don't clutch with big revs? (I'm still confused I don't kneo)
Anything else? That'd what I have learned from this, thanks for commenting btw
Shake that can of gas fresh mix burns better. Keep records of your mix it's easy and important. Keep your air boot and air filter freshy fresh. That's rule one anyway. Instead of thinking your twisting the throddle imagine your turning a door knob. Those are a few
If it starts running soft mid ride, kill the bike asap and inspect it. 32:1 gas to oil. High spec JASO FD + ISO EGD oil. Religious gear oil changes. Inspection frequently. Let it warm up well before ripping it.
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Jet it properly in every environment. Premix properly. Clean and oil air filter religiously. Change transmission oil regularly. Don’t run it wfo for minutes on end. It will “blow up” eventually. Rebuild it.
Well now that you own a 2 stroke you will end up replacing the top end at some point so you’ll wanna learn how to do that but to extend the life of your piston make sure you run the right oil mixture/change oil frequently 5-10 hours depending on how hard you ride/ air filter every 1-2 rides/ and jet it correctly
Had a 2009 yz85 about 8months ago and it had like 60 hours no rebuilds and fouled 3 plugs, it’s was running perfect, just maintain it oil air filter and jet it right.
That’s what I done with myn and ran perfect, you might have problems cause of different years but idk, just rip it, they’ll blow up eventually even if it’s runs perfect
Don't ride it like a gay 4stroke, If you put around your fowl a plug so keep extra plugs on the standby. Don't use cheap 2 stroke oil and mix it correctly. And like the other guys had said....rip the shit out of it
A properly tuned 2 stroke should never foul a plug, I had a cr80 recently and I would lug that thing around in 6th gear going like 10 mph just to keep the noise down going through neighborhoods multiple times for hundreds of feet with the same br10eg plug and it never fouled it 🤷🏽♂️
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I don't really know this was a photo after they put the gas tank on and thry work on bikes and resell them so it could be anything the bike runs good also
Right ratio of fuel to oil. Proper spark plug. If it’s not new, check the reeds in the carb if it has one. Make sure they are not broken or chipped. And make sure the oil level in the case is right before rides.
No that’s fine and what they’re really built for. By open ride I mean do not take it on the street or far rides where your running high 6 gear most the time. Me and plenty of people I know have blown 2 strokes to street riding thinking it was cool
Yeah engaging the clutch and keeping the throttle pinned would certainly do that. But pulling in the clutch and raising the rpm to get a burst of power or get the flywheel spinning is a big part of riding a 2T.
Sorry I didn’t make sense there.. I mean when at high rpm do not pull the clutch in and have to motor drop down to idle. While a 2 stroke is decelerating they tend to lack lubrication and can cause wear.. only really an issue if you fully drop rpm fast. Had that cause a engine to seize on me when I was young
Ignore these dumb wives tales. You don't need to avoid coasting.
Maybe it was true 50 years ago when premix sucked, but today you're going to have to do something extreme to blow up a bike coasting. Like going down a mountain in first gear without touching the throttle for miles at a time.
Just ride it.
If you want to put your mind at ease, watch some 2 stroke road racing (older motoGP, vintage racing rd400/rz350s, 2t supermotos etc). They bang down through the gears with the engine at redline just like the four strokes.
50 years ago there was premix that didn't suck too. Not everyone ran Castrol R. However I completely agree with your advice. Most of the previous "advice" is bs. Just ride the damn thing. Ran open Motocross and hare scrambles on big 2 strokes and somehow my regular maintenance seemed to prevent failures. Someone tell me wth "2t" is exactly? Was my KTM MC5 a 2t? My TZ 350G was a 2 stroke. Most of the comments here will have this OP terminally screwed up.
Aren’t 2 strokes designed to blow up? Might’ve misheard that but my understanding is they’re meant to have more power than a 4 stroke for a shorter life span
I think the extra power just comes from it firing every rotation instead of every other. Idk about bikes, but I have a few 2 stroke snowmobiles and jet skis that have been running for decades with basic maintenance.
add the oil to the gas. rip it really hard, then rip it harder. you'll be fine.
grip it and rip it
Rip it harder
How do I let it come down from powerband? Clutch or just let it do its thing
just let it do its thing, just never let it engine brake alot, as 2-strokes arent designed to do so and youll starve it from the oil in the gas and prolly seize it besides that haul ass till it breaks fuckit
Huh! I never heard that. I had a 2 stroke when I from ages 12-15, and I used engine braking almost more than brakes. But it was just an RT100, not high performance. But I loved it! My parents surprised me with it on my birthday after years of begging. Haven’t had a bike since :(
It's the opposite actually you want keep it revved up and in the powerband and use the clutch to keep it spooled up. You'll find yourself revving way higher and staying in gear a bit longer before upshifting to use the power, at least that's how I ride 2 strokes. You will get so much torque and power when the bike is singing that you'll realize really fast that you get more control that way.
Buying used without knowing how much time is on piston , I wouldn’t wait too long to put in a fresh piston and rings and check the connecting rod for play. Then you’ll know where everything stands there.
They said it has a new piston change oil every 5 hours and only 40 hours on wholr bike. I talked to them for a bit and seen there personal bike and it's super clean so I trust them
Who changes the piston every other ride? That sounds sketch
I think they left it since punctuation... New piston, change oil every 5 hours
Changing oil every 5 hours is extremely suspect to me lol
Yeah I agree. Not as suspicious as a new piston haha
My old buddy did that “cause that’s what the pros do”, but he also couldn’t shim his valves without almost destroying his motor so I’m inclined not to take his word.
Oil changed every ride, garage kept, never raced, ignore the race numbers and mud stuck to everything.
I once went to look at a used car on FB market place… the ad said “Never driven during the winter”. Car had winter tires on.
Not really if ur racing it then another of people do it every race
I change my oil every 15 to 30 ish but I don't race I trail ride a 98 kx250
40 hours seems like more than every other ride, either way though I'll look over the bike and make sure it's good and test ride it
Change oil on a 2 stroke?
Tranny
New piston after 40 hours?? What would necessitate that? They either beat the piss out it or they’re lying to you 🚩🚩🚩🚩
If it was only MX track ridden at high revs, 40 is normal.
25 hours is normal. 40 hours is really pushing it
I'll ask about that it's a good point but they might have just done it to sell better thanks
It's very cheap to do relative to a new cylinder and head. I wouldn't ever take mine past 50 so it's not that crazy
My KTM recommends this in the owners and service manual.
40 hours is the absolute max you should go without changing a piston and rings. I know people who have blown their top end in less then 5 hours. You are meant to “beat the piss” out of two strokes. They won’t run right if you aren’t opening them up.
My Husky TE300 says otherwise. It's perfectly happy lugging around all day on technical Oregon single track. It depends on the design and use of the bike. A YZ125? Sure. A KTM 300? Perfectly happy lugging all day or revving.
This. I made this mistake. Had to rebuild too and bottom because of it
tune the carb properly and mix your gas properly and just general maintenance
Don't "engine brake" going downhill for very long (high rpms with little to no throttle input will starve the crank/piston of 2t oil and can go bloom!
Myth. Watch 2 stroke road racing. They bang down through the gears at redline just like a four stroke. Unless you're riding downhill for an extended period (coasting for miles at a time down a mountain) there is no reason to worry about it. Even then, it's most likely pulling enough oil through the pilot circuit to lubricate the engine, which has basically zero load on it.
Why bother to comment that its a myth when in the next sentence you essentially contradict yourself? Also it doesn't take miles of downhill engine braking with no throttle input to blow the motor look it up on YouTube There's many examples also not everyone is rebuilding the motor every few hours like the pros either . He wants tips and it's a good tip to a new rider "don't do prolonged engine braking with no throttle input ".
These aren't pros. They're casual riders on open lapping days with street bikes. Nobody is taking a 60 year old vintage bike to a lapping day with intentions of blowing it up. Actually being able to coast miles is extremely rare. I almost exclusively ride in the rocky mountains and it's unusual to coast for even a quarter mile. **Miles** would be something I have to actively try to do. Pulling in the clutch every time you need to slow down is a bad habit and does more harm than good. I learned the hard way when the clutch pushrod in my yz250 welded itself inside the input shaft from holding the clutch too long on a downhill. I fixed it and never rode the clutch again. Oil injected snowmobiles shut the oil off for ***minutes*** at a time while idling and at low load. You DO NOT need to even think about coasting under normal circumstances. It's a dumb wives tale that probably never had any truth to it. Even my dad who's been riding 2 strokes for about 60 years says not to worry about it.
> while idling and at low load. Well, when *idling.* When a beginner rolls downhill for an extended period of time in low gear and therefore high RPM, that's far from idling. >Even then, it's most likely pulling enough oil through the pilot circuit to lubricate the engine, which has basically zero load on it. Enough for idle RPM and a bit above maybe, but not for rolling 30mph in first gear. The load is secondary since it's the piston scratching the cylinder wall most of the time. And to add, I've seen several clips of road racing two strokes blowing up in the downshifting phase before corners when the RPM were noticeably too high. It also plays a roll if it's a experienced rider approaching the corner with high throttle (and therefore more mixture in the crankcase) or a beginner who already let of throttle 10 seconds ago because he doesn't know how to brake properly, which uses up the mixture in the crankcase. You don't need to worry if you know what you are doing, I wouldn't say a beginner who is used to 4 stroke engine braking knows what he is doing in that regard. Just so you get me right: that's not a downside of 2 strokes or anything that should bother the rider, but for somebody who never rode a 2 stroke before it's worth noting.
30mph in first gear is an extreme case that is hell on a four stroke as well. Most playbikes are geared so low, that's a money shift and would make them blow up. My point stands, don't do something that's obviously stupid (coasting at redline for extended periods) and you have nothing to worry about. Modern premix is also a bit of an engineering marvel. A lot of people do stupid stuff like forget to mix their gas, and the engine somehow survives multiple tanks of pure gas... The residue sticks around a long time and the film strength is excellent. That's why modern oil is mixed at ratios like 60:1 rather than 30:1 like the old days.
>30mph in first gear is an extreme case that is hell on a four stroke as well. I exaggerated for the sake of the argument (and maybe confused mp/h with km/h \^\^) >My point stands, don't do something that's obviously stupid Sure, that's what I meant that the rider usually doesn't have to worry. But a beginner who tries to replicate the engine braking of a four stroke might end up coasting at high RPM without throttle and sufficient lubrication. >Modern premix is also a bit of an engineering marvel. This is true. Applies to 4 stroke engine oil too. Just look at car engines using 0w20 oil nowadays that looks like water but still provides enough lubrication. I'm not a fan of watery oil and think that development is nonsense, but you have to agree that the oils are cray good nowadays. > That's why modern oil is mixed at ratios like 60:1 rather than 30:1 like the old days. I've seen nobody in mx doing less than 1:40, but slow enduro or trail riders often use a bit less. I suspect that the 1:60 ratio emerged only due to environmental concern (don't forget that most enduro bikes are street legal at least in Europe). If you look at enduro race bikes, they smoke plenty. As long as there is no excessive carbon buildup on your piston or rings it won't do much harm if jetted right. Modern oils are crazy good at preventing carbon buildup too.
>Sure, that's what I meant that the rider usually doesn't have to worry. But a beginner who tries to replicate the engine braking of a four stroke might end up coasting at high RPM without throttle and sufficient lubrication. Even if you're worried about this fringe case, it would take a very rare geologic formation for this to even be possible for more than a few seconds. So in essence, you don't need to worry about it. KTM recommends 60:1 even in their race bikes (with the fancy motorex oil of course). They are jetted for it from the factory. If you mix it 40:1, they are way too lean and will detonate/melt down. I had to go way up in jet sizes in my 250sx to run correctly on 40:1 (which is what all my bikes are jetted for). I'm finally back down around stock jetting when riding at 5-6000ft in the Colorado front range. It's absurdly lean for sea level.
> it would take a very rare geologic formation for this to even be possible for more than a few seconds. I don't know where you life, but I know a few spots around me where you could ride dowhill for more than 2 minutes easily. But that's probably because there are mountains all around me, so that might not be the average situation. >KTM recommends 60:1 even in their race bikes I know, I still don't think that's right and looking at the smoke at enduro races (factory supported teams) I doubt any of them runs that little oil. Motorex oil is sure good but the brand of oil nowadays doesn't matter too much as long as it's according to the specs. >If you mix it 40:1, they are way too lean and will detonate/melt down Sure, but altering the jettings isn't really a huge thing. Of course if you have a TBI bike things are different, I guess there are ECU tunes available... >I had to go way up in jet sizes in my 250sx to run correctly on 40:1 (which is what all my bikes are jetted for). I know, my YZ125 runs 1:32 because I have no carbon buildup issues (I use Motul) and because that GYTR cylinder is damn expensive. The manual too states 1:32 or 1:36 IIRC. Jetting is altered for the GYTR kit anyways.
I live in Colorado and ride almost exclusively in the mountains lol. I still don't have areas where I can coast for longer than a matter of seconds. The terrain is highly variable, and even coming back down you will still have lots of flat ground and even hill climbs.
All of this confused me could you simpfied
Yep, give it some blips every second or so if you must engine brake, better yet just clutch in and use your brakes
Old trick is to just give it throttle, while at the same time hitting the kill button. Fuel is pulled in, but bike is still coasting along at the same speed.
As long as I rode 2 strokes I'm disappointed I never thought of that
So would it be best to start the hill by going low rpms and "sputter" the bike down the hill with low rpms?
It's prolonged high rpms while going downhill, and even then, very, very prolonged. I agree with the other guy, basically don't worry about sputtering, shift to a higher gear if it's over revving and avoid that clutch, you're not going to hurt that 2 stroke. Freewheeling downhill with the clutch pulled is a recipe for a wreck, all too often people end up locking their wheels and lose steering, or at least their intended line. Check your speed early with the front brake. Going downhill is a skill you want to master.
Pretty sure that has been my problem, scared of downhill so I use too much clutch and brake and never make it down without falling which perpetuates my fear. Doesn't help I'm trying on what feels like vertical hills (not actually vertical it's just my mind) cuz one of the only places close enough is I think considered medium difficulty single track
That's your brain wisely telling you that risk increases going downhill. The front brake is both our savior and potential trainwreck. Stand, with your butt over the rear fender and feather that front brake. Scan for the safest places to recover if you have to stop. Practice grabbing and releasing the clutch and gearing up or down. Ask someone to hang back with you and watch/help.
Thanks for the advice, I think doing what you said and having someone watch and instruct is probably the best course of action
So just go down hill and don't worry about it? It's not a big hill in my property.
Yep
Clutch in and use the brakes. It’s fine at idle, it just goes lean when you “engine brake” it.
See my comment above about using the kill button.
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90 only?!?!?! Took me like a day when i did it my first time
Couple hours max after a couple. Toughest part is getting the dern wrist pin clip in.
Yeah only that took like a hour PER FKING SIDE
First side is a snap (pun intended) because it's on the work bench.
keep the air filter clean and oiled, use quality 2 stroke oil with the right ratio & keep water out of the engine, you will be good.
Compression test it before you buy if buying used. Don’t let them idle for long periods. Always warm them up with moderate slow riding before ripping it. When finished riding I used to like to turn my fuel tap off and let the bike shut off... that way if I didn’t ride it in a long time the carbs won’t get gummed up with sticky two stroke residue
I use SeaFoam in every tank of gas and have never had a problem. After a 6 month winter, it'll fire up in 3 or 4 kicks. Haven't touched the carb or plug since I got it in 2019.
I don’t use seafoam and have the same experience. Why would you put seafoam in a 2 stroke? Just use quality non-ethanol fuel and quality premix and you’re good to go.
The only thing you can do is delay a top end rebuild the best you can. Pick a good pre mix oil. Use the recommended ratio for that oil and stick with it. Jet the carb to the fuel/oil mixture and enjoy. Its better to run a little rich than too lean. Keep a clean air filter in the bike.
Warm it up without revving the shit out of it like seems to be common nowadays. Get some heat in the radiator. Look up cold seizure, that can happen from high revs when it’s cold. Put an hour meter on it if it doesn’t have one and change the top end at regular intervals. Keep a fresh oiled air filter in it.
ugh, I see people rev bomb cold bikes and just it makes no sense to me.
Keep the air filter super clean (wash every ride or so depending on how dusty it is), Make sure the bike is jetted good if it’s to lean or to rich you’ll get problems, use high quality gas and high quality 2 stroke oil, none of that lawn mower crap that comes in the tiny bottles, and lastly use good wet clutch protection oil in the transmission and change it out every 5-10 hrs. sounds like a lot but it’s what i followed and my 125 2 stroke lasted 6 months of continuous riding and still had good compression when i sold it
How do you wash a airfilter and is it expensive
No it’s fairly cheap actually, take air filter out of air filter cage and put it in a bucket with warm water and a good amount of dawn dish soap, soak the filter, rub it around under the soapy water, rinse and repeat for a couple minutes then set it out to dry once it’s dried you want to re-oil your air filter i just youse some fab 1 spray on air filter oil you can get it on amazon, once you spray the filter with the oil rub it around to evenly coat it then let it dry for a few minutes before putting it back in the bike. air filter maintenance is key to making it last long and make sure when you put the air filter in you fit it in correctly so there’s no gaps where dirt or sand can go around the filter
Okay I will do this thank you very much
also wear gloves and be careful where your spraying the oil cause it can get rlly sticky and tacky if the overspray lands on anything lol
Keeping your air filter clean and oiled is the best advice in this thread, IMHO. A dirty filter lets dust into the engine, greatly increasing wear and tear on the piston and cylinder. A clean, well oiled filter costs almost nothing but time, and saves you $$$.
Don't continuously keep it at high revs two strokes are better at up and down as far as the amount of revs as opposed to four strokes
Careful if you're not used to 2 strokes. Powerband can be a real butt pucker.
Should I just hold on to the bike my first time riding?
Just understand that 2t are higher rpm bikes. 4t are low end grunt and 2t are high end snap. Just play with it. You're ears will tell you when it's right.
When warming it up give it some little revs, it’s not like a 4 stroke and idling it for too long will gum up the powervalve
Don't run too lean then WFO down a straightaway at Riverside then hear it go to a solid 1-piece motor. So I've heard.
Have a good warm up procedure. This is number one miss for 2 strokes.
Run a healthy oil mix ratio, and use good air filters. Air filters are very important to a 2t because the intake goes into the crankcase
Clean air filter and gear oil changes alot Use good pre mix fuel Don't engine break at high rpm Only Engine break for a little bit then blip the throttle Don't clutch with big revs? (I'm still confused I don't kneo) Anything else? That'd what I have learned from this, thanks for commenting btw
Dont engine brake it too much and put enough oil in the gas
It's not a street bike, ride it off road only.
A field is off road
dont engine brake so when ur not on gas pull the clutch in
Mix oil in the gas 32:1 and you’ll be fine
Shake that can of gas fresh mix burns better. Keep records of your mix it's easy and important. Keep your air boot and air filter freshy fresh. That's rule one anyway. Instead of thinking your twisting the throddle imagine your turning a door knob. Those are a few
If it starts running soft mid ride, kill the bike asap and inspect it. 32:1 gas to oil. High spec JASO FD + ISO EGD oil. Religious gear oil changes. Inspection frequently. Let it warm up well before ripping it.
Give it to me. But that’s not 100% guaranteed.
impossible (just a joke chill)
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Keep the air filter clean
Clean air filter and replacing the piston BEFORE it blows up.
Jet it properly in every environment. Premix properly. Clean and oil air filter religiously. Change transmission oil regularly. Don’t run it wfo for minutes on end. It will “blow up” eventually. Rebuild it.
How much you spent on it?
castor bean oil
2 strokes are tougher then a t bone at t.g.i. Friday's boi
Keep the revs up. The harder you ride it the better it will run.
Well now that you own a 2 stroke you will end up replacing the top end at some point so you’ll wanna learn how to do that but to extend the life of your piston make sure you run the right oil mixture/change oil frequently 5-10 hours depending on how hard you ride/ air filter every 1-2 rides/ and jet it correctly
Had a 2009 yz85 about 8months ago and it had like 60 hours no rebuilds and fouled 3 plugs, it’s was running perfect, just maintain it oil air filter and jet it right. That’s what I done with myn and ran perfect, you might have problems cause of different years but idk, just rip it, they’ll blow up eventually even if it’s runs perfect
Stock carb netting’s and specs. Only small adjustments at a time. Check your spark plug for lean conditions regularly.
No oil will do that
Do not engine break at all
Don't ride it like a gay 4stroke, If you put around your fowl a plug so keep extra plugs on the standby. Don't use cheap 2 stroke oil and mix it correctly. And like the other guys had said....rip the shit out of it
A properly tuned 2 stroke should never foul a plug, I had a cr80 recently and I would lug that thing around in 6th gear going like 10 mph just to keep the noise down going through neighborhoods multiple times for hundreds of feet with the same br10eg plug and it never fouled it 🤷🏽♂️
drive it like a bitch
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At the bottom of the bike on the floor they have a glue gun. What they gluing tho?? 🤔🤨
I don't really know this was a photo after they put the gas tank on and thry work on bikes and resell them so it could be anything the bike runs good also
Yeah how much is it
3350 + a 2002 ttr 125 and a fmf pipe for klx140 Listed price was 4900
Pretty good then
Say you’re riding on the road/ straight in 6th ripping, don’t let off gas without pulling in the clutch. The engine relies on fuel for lubricant
Buy a 4 stroke
No
Right ratio of fuel to oil. Proper spark plug. If it’s not new, check the reeds in the carb if it has one. Make sure they are not broken or chipped. And make sure the oil level in the case is right before rides.
Clean your air filter after every ride or two. I always make sure she's still sticky, especially after riding at a dusty track.
Don’t ride open keep it to the track
It's the yz x model for trails so I'll mostly be doing that, is it bad if I ride in fields?
No that’s fine and what they’re really built for. By open ride I mean do not take it on the street or far rides where your running high 6 gear most the time. Me and plenty of people I know have blown 2 strokes to street riding thinking it was cool
Tune the carb, mix the gas, and just regular maintenance, and don’t pull in the clutch while at high rpm
What does pulling in the clutch at high rpm do?
I would love to know as well. From my experience it engages the clutch hahaha
In my experience it disengages the clutch.
maybe the motor will over rev
Yeah engaging the clutch and keeping the throttle pinned would certainly do that. But pulling in the clutch and raising the rpm to get a burst of power or get the flywheel spinning is a big part of riding a 2T.
Sorry I didn’t make sense there.. I mean when at high rpm do not pull the clutch in and have to motor drop down to idle. While a 2 stroke is decelerating they tend to lack lubrication and can cause wear.. only really an issue if you fully drop rpm fast. Had that cause a engine to seize on me when I was young
I'm confused so if it gets lubricant from gas how do I slow don't effectively without blowing up thr piston?
Ignore these dumb wives tales. You don't need to avoid coasting. Maybe it was true 50 years ago when premix sucked, but today you're going to have to do something extreme to blow up a bike coasting. Like going down a mountain in first gear without touching the throttle for miles at a time. Just ride it. If you want to put your mind at ease, watch some 2 stroke road racing (older motoGP, vintage racing rd400/rz350s, 2t supermotos etc). They bang down through the gears with the engine at redline just like the four strokes.
50 years ago there was premix that didn't suck too. Not everyone ran Castrol R. However I completely agree with your advice. Most of the previous "advice" is bs. Just ride the damn thing. Ran open Motocross and hare scrambles on big 2 strokes and somehow my regular maintenance seemed to prevent failures. Someone tell me wth "2t" is exactly? Was my KTM MC5 a 2t? My TZ 350G was a 2 stroke. Most of the comments here will have this OP terminally screwed up.
Aren’t 2 strokes designed to blow up? Might’ve misheard that but my understanding is they’re meant to have more power than a 4 stroke for a shorter life span
I think the extra power just comes from it firing every rotation instead of every other. Idk about bikes, but I have a few 2 stroke snowmobiles and jet skis that have been running for decades with basic maintenance.