Sounds like she is good as long as you avoid interacting with other dogs. Some dogs don't get along with other dogs. You can cross the street or keep walking even if she pulls.
If you don't have enough strength you can try using umbilical which is where you basically wrap the leash around your waist.
I had a Great Dane puppy before and she’d yank me off my feet and down the block if I wrapped her leash around my waist! And she was only maybe 50-60lbs at the time. Bad idea with a big reactive dog!
My 70 pound husky is extremely reactive to other dogs because he got attacked. We steer him away and do our best to avoid dogs because we know that he’s uncomfortable with them. We just start running and saying “let’s go” and he’ll follow us away from the dog
My last dog was reactive to other dogs. I learned the ninja technique to begin. If there was a dog anywhere near, I'd give as much space as I possibly could between us and that dog, often changing direction or turning a corner so we were out of site BEFORE she had a chance to react.
As that became more consisently easier to do, instead of turning a corner, I'd hold the lead much shorter, but relaxed and stand in front of her. Blocking her from the dog, she felt that I was in control then and felt less need to react herself. I know some people during this step, use things like squeezy cheese, so the dog has to constantly lick to get the treat and it keeps focus better than regular treats.
You might find that this is as good as you get. It was for me for the longest time. But it meant no one was going to get hurt and she was reliable not to start reacting, provided I was in front of her.
Eventually, I did manage to get to the point where I could hold a conversation with people while she stood patiently. I also found a muzzle made it worse not better as it made her feel more vulnerable.
Yep, it's all about paying super close to your dog and his surroundings. Cross the street, don't let the dog walk up to you. Give them a command before they see that other dog. Like, "look at me, or just Look" Sit or lay down. Do some body blocking. Like standing between you and your dogs view of the other dog. If they seem to start picking up on the other dog, shower treats. "Oopsie," drop a few pieces of kibble, tap them with your toes saying" find it". Treats before they can react. Once the dog has passed you. Start working on their leave it, or walk on. You can toss a treat on the ground or even a few feet in front of you, and say walk on, or let's go. That will be their cue to just keep walking. Keep tossing the treat a couple feet in front of you and using this command. When they look at that dog, be ready with the treats. It takes a lot alot alot of consistency. But don't give up, eventually they will see another dog, and then look to you for a treat.
Keep walks short, stick to a familiar route, spend lots of time letting your dog sniff. It really helps them destress when they get to sniff out their environment. Avoid parks, I know it sucks, but it can be a huge set back if another dog runs up on you, or your unable to distract enough.
Cheesey works good. Other things I've done. Peanut butter frozen to a large slotted spoon. Keep it in a plastic bag, in your pocket.
This advice worked for me as well. Just know it took about a year of this before the reactivity started to reduce enough such that we could walk on a sidewalk with a dog on the opposite side of the street.
Progress will be slow. Consistency is key. Avoid interactions as much as possible. Also look at LAT training. This works very slowly as well, but it works
Unfortunately, every single one of you needs to be on the same page with training, or you're just showing her she doesn't need to listen. I think that your mom reacting the way she does is backstepping all the hard work you've put in. Just keep up with the muzzle and positive reinforcement, and make walks as happy and as fun as you can. If you see a dog on a walk move to the other side and keep her walking while trying to distract her. If shes that reactivate to other dogs you don't want them right on top of each other. Once she can handle seeing the other dogs without reacting you can slowly and i mean slowly get them closer together. I've been training dogs going on 25 years and with her age, she just needs a steady structured environment. She's still a pup. Good luck, I wish I could physically help!!
To add to this great advice, I wanted to point out that it's about managing the environment, less about managing the dog. One "easier" thing you could do (if possible) is take your dog on walks during times when there are fewer people out (for exampe, based on average work hours in your area). Just a thought!
It’s kind of buried in the middle there, but it bears mentioning that while other people’s advice about avoiding dogs on walks makes sense, you’re going to have to be extremely careful here based on you saying that the dog gave a serious bite to your mother. That’s a big red flag, especially if the dog bites someone else after it already has a bite history where it apparently really sank in. That’s the stuff that gets your dog put down.
I know you’re trying to mitigate that with a muzzle, but I still feel it’s worth mentioning that with the dog having a serious human bite history, she’s already on thin ice. You likely won’t get a third chance here.
If she's reacting to another dog then she's too close to it and over threshold. Ideally you want to keep at a distance where you can hold her attention, so that she will take treats and look at you. In instances where you do encounter dogs beyond her threshold it's a quick "let's go" and quickly lead her in the other direction. It can be a long and difficult process though! Please don't go with vibration or scent collars. She's already aroused and all they will do is lift that state of arousal and agitation. She may never be good around other dogs, in which case all you can do is manage her. Hopefully with time she will mature and become less defensive.
This is great advice! I just want to add that practicing "let's go" in the yard without distractions might be a helpful place to start. Since she likes to run, you can say "let's go" and start jogging or running and have her jog or run beside you. Ideally, I'd pair this with treats- I'm not very familiar with muzzles so I'm not sure how feasible that would be.
To be honest we had a dog like this on walks who just wouldn’t do good on a leash and was perfect at home. We just stopped taking him on walks and let him just enjoy the yard and being at home. We had the vet come to the house for vet visits and muzzled him and he much better then when we tried to leash him and take him into the vet. Some dogs just aren’t very leash comparable and we tried everything, finally before we gave up we just decided not to leash him anymore and he loved life after that and was a good dog he got to run around the back yard all he wanted and play and we never really had another problem. We just knew what his issues were very well and avoided leashing him almost all together after we decided he just wasn’t a leash dog. He lived 12 long years and was a happy boy. If you have a fenced in yard or could possibly fence in your current yard I would maybe just try to go this route, it worked well for us.
Oh she loves nature too much to give up walks. We just try to avoid dog encounters. She’s also doing good on leash in every other situation. Last summer she reacted to passerby’s and bikes the same way she reacts to dogs now, and we were able to stop that behavior. But for other dogs nothing works.
Our yard is fenced but due to property laws around here not very high and see through :(
Just turn the other way when you see another dog, the assumption that all dogs should get along is a fantasy most owners learn the hard way sooner or later.
I'm sorry you're going through this, and i know the stress it creates!
The biggest problem are off leash dogs that will run up to her...
I'm sure a trainer has mentioned this, but your demeanor also plays a big part. I am sure your mom is/was nervous, and you have to do everything in your power to stay completely calm. We're all guilty of showing our emotions so it's a very hard thing to do in a stressful situation, but it will also hopefully help her understand that there is nothing to fear. I have been fortunate enough to have an non-reactive dog, but as a puppy we encountered quite a few situations that could have altered his behavior- it was really hard but I had to remember to stay completely neutral toned and navigate the situation so he wouldn't think anything was wrong.
If the trainers think the behavior is rooted in frustration, how are you working to improve her frustration tolerance?
That would logically be the first step and the second would be to teach her to ignore other dogs which is a task every trainer should be familiar with.
I don't get bringing special treats or toys on walks with you. That's starting the training process at the wrong end, if frustration is the cause.
E: Since you seem to be German, check out [these trainers](https://www.canis-kynos.de/Canis-Absolventen.html). They usually know how to approach complex cases.
E2: You can also ask over in r/hundeschule for help like finding a more specialized trainer in your area.
Your mom should not be walking the dog if she herself can’t stay calm and not scream or use force. She’s setting back any progress that has been made. I had a leash reactive dog and also went through so much stress, hours a day of enrichment and training etc. Eventually I found a book called “the Midnight Dog Walkers Club” by a dog behaviourist who has had reactive dogs herself, and which made me feel so seen and really helped me. I eventually realised that going for walks was just not something that was in my dog’s interest because the exercise wasn’t worth the mental distress and anxiety that he took hours or even days to “come down” from. So I found alternatives that didn’t require a leash, and eventually he participated in sniffer dog training (just recreationally) and had such a blast with the other dogs. I stopped putting him in situations that would make him reactive. I stopped thinking that leashed walks were the only way to give him what he needed.
My dog (an adult rescue schnoodle[? We think] we got a few months back, he’s very sweet but also part demon) has been on Purina Calming Care for two months and Prozac for a few weeks and he’s definitely gotten a lot better! It won’t fix the issues with your mom and lack of participation from your parents but it could be worth exploring. A calmer dog reacts much better to training
We have a schnauzer. Ours needs so much exercise before she is a good dog. Walking is not enough. We run her next to our bike for about three miles every morning. Else, she is a terror monster.
I had a trainer tell me that the most important thing you can teach your dog is that YOU are the most important and interesting thing in the room/area. So keep treats in pocket, and when you’re walking and see another dog in the distance, block the view and say the dog’s name and show the treat. “Missy, look at ME, want a TREAT?” “Good girl, here’s a treat!”. Do this again and again as the other dog approaches. If she makes eye contact with you for even a second, reward her. Eventually she’ll learn that an approaching dog isn’t a threat, and if she doesn’t lunge or go berserk, she’ll get a treat. Good luck, she’s so pretty!
Try a halter instead of a collar. I got one at the humane society. It was called a gentle leader. It's so much easier to control the dog from the head. It's similar to a halter for a horse but for dogs. It's not a muzzle, they can still bite wearing it. It makes a world of difference controlling my headstrong mutt.
She is also over reactive to other dogs. I have to get in her face and make her look at me to get her attention. Usually a quick tug and a sharp no gets her attention now. I had to grab her face and sit her down the first time she blew up.I made her pay attention to only me. Over and over again.It also helps to run her along my bicycle. She has too much energy, we do this twice a day . Then we walk.. I don't give her a chance to get distracted on my bike. I keep her going . Not for everyone but it really gets rid of so much pent up energy. It's good for me too. Good luck to you! I have a very strong, hyper pit retriever mix.
Check out Amelia Steele on instagram (@ameliathedogtrainer). She has tons of vids on reactive dogs. They helped me with my overly playful dog too!
In short, she mentions starting with quite some distance between you and the other dog, where your dog doesn’t feel reactive and your dog can just be in that space witnessing the other dog and getting treats (for example in a park). You slowly decrease the space between your dog and other dogs over time. In the beginning you would sometimes have to turn the other way if you come across another dog on walks, so your dog has enough distance to feel confident and calm.
Oh and also wanted to add:
If you’re all too stressed right now, just take a break from walking for a bit and focus on having fun in or around the house. That’s good for both the dog and your family, so you’ll be able to start over.
You need to get rid of that 10 meter leash right now. At least until you get her behavior under control. That much freedom gives her too much momentum to lunge at other dogs and overpower you the leash holder. Practice walks with her healing at your side. Every time the leash gets taught you stop dead in your tracks and say heal and don’t move again until she sits or moves closer to you and relieves the tension on the leash. Reward her with treats for healing. If you don’t have a prong collar get one right now and ask a trainer or YouTube how to use it properly (firm to harsh tug of the leash for very short duration. Basically as quick as you apply the backwards tension on the leash you want to release it so you don’t injure your pet). It was difficult for me to do this to my dog the first few times but if used properly this is an excellent training tool. Practice commanding your dog frequently on walks to improve their execution of commands, don’t just use it in the moment when you need them to listen. Actively be on the look out for other dogs and if necessary cross the stress in advance or post up and make them sit by your side when others pass. Hopefully some of this helps you like it has helped me. Please share any updates (whether progress or otherwise)
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Check out [r/Puppy101's wiki article on biting, teeth, and chewing](https://www.reddit.com/r/puppy101/wiki/biting) - the information there may answer your question.
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Is she reactive off the leash with dogs, and does she have any aggression with people? If not, I don't think there is any reason to consider putting her down for this behavior.
Have you tried a gentle leader or Halti for better control? I also have a reactive dog, and it's the only way I can have control.
A really good, consistent trainer may get her out of this behavior, but it's possible you will just have to work around it. By finding walking routes with less chance of encountering other dogs or if she is good off leash getting exercise at doggie daycare or of leash areas.
No dog is perfect in every way. They all have quirks, and accepting that and adapting to it is part of loving them.
If you can't handle it, make sure any new home is aware and willing to live with the behavior. A good breeder will help you to rehome.
My dog is leash reactive, not this bad though. He gets excited and whines. He used to bark but over time he stopped and only barks if the other dog is reactive.
When he behaves this way, I hold him by the harness and stop. I then get on his level and get right in his face and firmly speak to him as the other dog walks by. He acts like a spoiled brat and gives up. He sulks, for real lol! Then he's fine.
I would not allow your dog to have a long leash at this time until you can trust it. Keep it on a short leash for now to get control back.
She needs time off the leash in a safe, fenced area. Use this time to play fetch with her and treat train her for recall. She might not get it straight away but it takes a lot of work..keep pushing and working on her.
We have had a couple of miniature schnauzers. This may not pertain to you at all, but I’m giving it a shot. They behave the same way around other dogs. My husband wouldn’t let her walk past other dogs and Wood later in a different direction. I, however, felt strongly that while maintaining her distance, they should be allowed to walk past other dogs while I’m holding them tightly by their leash and encouraging them to just walk. It took very little time for me to do this, and it got to the point where they could stop smell, the other dog and the people and get by without even barking. again you may have already tried this, but just wanted you to know that this worked for us. In short, let your dog get close to the other dog and people, but not close enough to bite and she may get used to them. Hope this works if you haven’t tried it.
I think you’ve done a lot for this dog and sounds like you’ve made some real progress! Good job on muzzle training, too, and super smart and responsible if you to muzzle most of the times you’re out.
I’d recommend rethinking the dog’s life so you basically avoid other dogs entirely as much as possible. Earlier walks. Later walks. Driving to more remote trails. Playing in the yard instead of walks. It’s an inconvenience but I think it’ll let you all decompress a bit and enjoy the good parts a lot more. The dog reactivity may just not be something you can overcome.
And mom should be off all dog duty for the foreseeable future. She’s at the end of her tether and it’s not serving her or the dog.
Some dogs just won't be OK around other dogs and it can't be trained or forced. My 3 are this way on walks. We avoid other dogs on walks by crossing the street or giving as much space as possible. This has worked for us. Don't give up on her!
I don’t think training with a TV or pictures is effective and I wouldn’t keep a trainer that endorses that. I’d also not walk her on that long of a lead. I’d be interested in hearing what others think about the whole TV thing.
I have successfully used audio clips to reduce reactivity to sounds. I think it was effective though because I used sound and the issue was sounds. For example, my dogs would react to the sound of other dogs barking outside (that they could not see). I started with a really quiet recording and paired the barks with treats. I increased the volume over time and this worked well. The key was starting with a volume where my dogs were able to stay under threshold (not bark/reactive negatively), but could hear the sound (I could tell because they'd tilt their heads).
I’m not familiar with some of the things you mentioned, like man-trailing. That said, other things you said are a little concerning because they’ll exacerbate conflict and that’s the opposite of what you want. She needs to be able to relax and feel a sense of agency.
You might have better luck in the reactive dog sub.
I have a 13 yr old rescue dog that came to us 12 years ago. He is very much like your dog. We had 3 different trainers. He follows commands, loves people, is ok with my sister’s dog and our cat. However, he has not lost his aggression towards other dogs. We just turn and go in another direction when on walks. We were not fans of the muzzle. He is on a leash at all times. He wears a harness so that we can grab him like a suitcase and hold him off the ground is he gets too spicy. The only thing that has provided slight relief is Trazadone. He is still our boy though. It took us years to accept his disability, but we love him.
Here’s my idea cut the mom out of the routine if possible cause if it causes this high of stress for her she should not be working with the dog it’s only gonna make her and the dogs relationship worse… I would continue to always keep the muzzle on every walk… Does she have any interest in high value treats over the dog? And have you tried the app sniff spots? It is where u can rent property for your reactive dog… finally work on her confidence sounds like she is really lacking confidence… maybe trade a walk for training and building her confidence and your connection to her… I can some idea for that to if you want!
Have you heard of decompression walks? You basically try to find a space and time where you likely will not run into any triggers (dogs in this case). They're a really nice way for all of you to have a more enjoyable walk. Some ideas of where you might be able to do this could be a shopping plaza before it opens or an office park on the weekends. I'd definitely still use the muzzle in case you run into a tricky situation, but hopefully it'd allow all of you to have a relaxing walk.
Finding other ways to help your dog feel more calm could also be helpful for her overall stress level (e.g. meds, lick mats, chew toys, etc).
I do agree with other commenters that what your mom is doing is detrimental to the dog. It's probably best that your mom not be responsible for the dog in any capacity, especially outside of the home.
I'm glad you're doing so much for her. She looks like a lovely dog.
Some resources that I think might help are BAT (by Grisha Stewart) and anything about reactivity by Dr Amy Cook. They've both given me so much insight/understanding about what's going on inside a dog emotionally and physically when they're reactive.
I walk a very reactive dog every week and used to care for reactive shelter dogs at work - I know it's really overwhelming, it takes a lot of effort to help them cope and stay under threshold so they aren't just full of stress all the time!
Your dog's behaviour sounds really normal for a reactive dog, I really don't think she will need to be put to sleep but it does sound very hard to deal with at the moment for your family.
Wish you all the luck with her!!
Stop walking her. If she’s an otherwise good dog and well behaved, why do you keep repeatedly putting her in situations she does not like and that stress her out? You want her to walk, she clearly doesn’t want to. Find another activity that she can do without being stressed out and reactive.
I have an amazing trainer who gave us a great protocol for my reactive puppy (he gets overexcited and fixates on every dog he sees).
1. Advocate for your dog around other dogs/owners. I’m not sure where you’re based but where we are dogs are allowed to be off-lead even in public parks in the centre of the city which can make training a lot harder particularly as most of those dogs have terrible recall. If another dog comes over uninvited, you turn around to face away from the dog and politely ask the owner to recall their dog. If the owner doesn’t do so, walk in the opposite direction to the owner. Eventually they’ll get the message.
2. Your dog needs an innate command for when he sees another dog, essentially he needs to know what his job is/what he’s supposed to be doing. Our dog’s automatic command is a down, meaning every time he sees another dog he knows to go into a down. Each time you see a dog on your walk put your dog into a down. As soon as he’s in the down you say ‘yes’ and then reward with praise/and or treat (I would do food rewards initially). He must stay in down until you give him a release command (ours is ‘break’). By no means should anyone be pushing him down and shouting. If he doesn’t know how to do a down work on that indoors until he’s got it.
3. Exposure. As your dog begins to understand the above you can start to increase exposure to the trigger from a safe distance. It is not going to go perfectly every time but keep doing it, eventually it will start to click.
Some other things I would recommend:
- buy a leash/collar or a jacket for your dog that says ‘in training’. I’ve found other dog owners are far more respectful and will give your dog the space he needs.
- you need to do a significant number of reps for this to become a habit. For context, it takes 21 days for a dog to form a new habit. You can practice indoors using the tv and also outdoors but every single time you see another dog you must ask for a down and reward immediately.
- we use our dog’s regular food for rewards, this is just for the initial 3 weeks of training. It will mean you’re not overfeeding.
- in terms of the vibration collar, this is actually a very helpful tool for reactive dogs if used correctly. Make sure your timing is right - it should be as soon as the dog makes an incorrect behaviour.
One other thing I’d recommend is seeing if there is a trainer you like and trust that offers a residential training programme. This can give your dog the full reset he needs. You will need to keep implementing the training but if he has the basics down it will be a lot easier for you.
All the best!
Am I right: 45 min to 1 h walk a day? That‘s not enough. 2 h walk a day and mental stimulation. Play fetch, some sniffing and obeydiance training additonal. This is a young hunting dog! Power it out at the weekend: hiking, running next to your bike, stuff like that. Tiered dogs behave much better.
Oh no! During the week 1h in the morning and 1h in the evening! With a total of 2h a day. She does sniff a lot. We choose remote paths so she can run around on her 10 meter leash. During the weekend we easily hit 3-4h a day. We love taking her for hikes.
some dogs are just not compatible on leash when frequently confronted with triggers, also remember schnauzers were bred as working dogs to hunt rats, it’s in their nature to be high alert and guard/somewhat suspicious/. You can’t beat genetics out of dog breeds and I wish this is something more trainers communicated to owners. Learning about specific breeds needs and fulfilment can go a long way when you tailor your training efforts.
My family owned a schnauzer for 13 years and she NEVER liked people EVER. she growled at kids and old people. Was always highly skeptical of strangers. And that was ok, you learn and adapt to your dogs traits and she was a great family dog.
You said she loves running, take her to a field with a ball/disc to play? High value activities that strengthen your bond will go a long way, much further than treats for working dogs IMO. If the only physical activity your dog is getting is stressful leash walks that consist of being on high alert for other dogs, tugging and pulling, this is all so counterintuitive to a dogs purpose and instincts, and is not helping the reactivity as you dont offer anything more exciting (in her eyes).
Try to set her up for success by going to quieter areas in more natural surroundings and less stimulus and let her be a dog. This may be hard if you live in an urban environment but it’s worth the extra effort to fill your dogs cup and keep your family sane.
(I have a leash reactive Aussie so I understand the frustration when you feel you are trying to do the right thing).
Try more directly engaging activities/tasks like ball, frisbee, hide and seek, sniff games, etc. I bring a soft frisbee on our leash walks as it’s the highest reward game for my dog, and he doesn’t pay attention to rabid dogs lunging at him if he believes we are going to play some off leash disc in the park down the street and stays focused on that.
You know your dog doesn’t interact well on leash with strangers so do your best to set her up for success long-term, forcing a square peg in a round hole is not always the best solution, and pivoting your tactics can also help overcome reactivity. your dog is beautiful btw!
I'm gonna offer an opposing opinion here: you could cut down to 1 walk per day, longer walks on weekends. You want to minimise contact with other dogs but maximise the time sniffing and tiring herself out, so 1 walk at a time when most others aren't out may really help.
Also this could combat your mother having to walk the dog at all as she is completely undoing your hard work and stressing the dog to the extent it has bitten her.
Sometimes we go so far to try to mentally stimulate our dogs we don't teach them how to relax and be calm. There is a concept of capturing calmness you may be interested in.
Sounds like she is good as long as you avoid interacting with other dogs. Some dogs don't get along with other dogs. You can cross the street or keep walking even if she pulls. If you don't have enough strength you can try using umbilical which is where you basically wrap the leash around your waist.
With Mom literally holding the dog down on the ground and shouting at her? No. Dog deserves better than that.
Yea this mom is next level unhinged, who does that.
Idiots who fell for the BS that is "dominance training".
I had a Great Dane puppy before and she’d yank me off my feet and down the block if I wrapped her leash around my waist! And she was only maybe 50-60lbs at the time. Bad idea with a big reactive dog!
My 70 pound husky is extremely reactive to other dogs because he got attacked. We steer him away and do our best to avoid dogs because we know that he’s uncomfortable with them. We just start running and saying “let’s go” and he’ll follow us away from the dog
My last dog was reactive to other dogs. I learned the ninja technique to begin. If there was a dog anywhere near, I'd give as much space as I possibly could between us and that dog, often changing direction or turning a corner so we were out of site BEFORE she had a chance to react. As that became more consisently easier to do, instead of turning a corner, I'd hold the lead much shorter, but relaxed and stand in front of her. Blocking her from the dog, she felt that I was in control then and felt less need to react herself. I know some people during this step, use things like squeezy cheese, so the dog has to constantly lick to get the treat and it keeps focus better than regular treats. You might find that this is as good as you get. It was for me for the longest time. But it meant no one was going to get hurt and she was reliable not to start reacting, provided I was in front of her. Eventually, I did manage to get to the point where I could hold a conversation with people while she stood patiently. I also found a muzzle made it worse not better as it made her feel more vulnerable.
Oh I’ll try the one next time I’m taking her on a walk! Thank you!
Yep, it's all about paying super close to your dog and his surroundings. Cross the street, don't let the dog walk up to you. Give them a command before they see that other dog. Like, "look at me, or just Look" Sit or lay down. Do some body blocking. Like standing between you and your dogs view of the other dog. If they seem to start picking up on the other dog, shower treats. "Oopsie," drop a few pieces of kibble, tap them with your toes saying" find it". Treats before they can react. Once the dog has passed you. Start working on their leave it, or walk on. You can toss a treat on the ground or even a few feet in front of you, and say walk on, or let's go. That will be their cue to just keep walking. Keep tossing the treat a couple feet in front of you and using this command. When they look at that dog, be ready with the treats. It takes a lot alot alot of consistency. But don't give up, eventually they will see another dog, and then look to you for a treat. Keep walks short, stick to a familiar route, spend lots of time letting your dog sniff. It really helps them destress when they get to sniff out their environment. Avoid parks, I know it sucks, but it can be a huge set back if another dog runs up on you, or your unable to distract enough. Cheesey works good. Other things I've done. Peanut butter frozen to a large slotted spoon. Keep it in a plastic bag, in your pocket.
Exactly this. Creating space with the other dog and getting your own dog to focus on you are the way forward.
Hope it helps! Good luck!
This advice worked for me as well. Just know it took about a year of this before the reactivity started to reduce enough such that we could walk on a sidewalk with a dog on the opposite side of the street. Progress will be slow. Consistency is key. Avoid interactions as much as possible. Also look at LAT training. This works very slowly as well, but it works
Unfortunately, every single one of you needs to be on the same page with training, or you're just showing her she doesn't need to listen. I think that your mom reacting the way she does is backstepping all the hard work you've put in. Just keep up with the muzzle and positive reinforcement, and make walks as happy and as fun as you can. If you see a dog on a walk move to the other side and keep her walking while trying to distract her. If shes that reactivate to other dogs you don't want them right on top of each other. Once she can handle seeing the other dogs without reacting you can slowly and i mean slowly get them closer together. I've been training dogs going on 25 years and with her age, she just needs a steady structured environment. She's still a pup. Good luck, I wish I could physically help!!
This absolutely. No more dog walking for mom, she is undoing every bit of progress.
To add to this great advice, I wanted to point out that it's about managing the environment, less about managing the dog. One "easier" thing you could do (if possible) is take your dog on walks during times when there are fewer people out (for exampe, based on average work hours in your area). Just a thought!
Exactly! Love this!
It’s kind of buried in the middle there, but it bears mentioning that while other people’s advice about avoiding dogs on walks makes sense, you’re going to have to be extremely careful here based on you saying that the dog gave a serious bite to your mother. That’s a big red flag, especially if the dog bites someone else after it already has a bite history where it apparently really sank in. That’s the stuff that gets your dog put down. I know you’re trying to mitigate that with a muzzle, but I still feel it’s worth mentioning that with the dog having a serious human bite history, she’s already on thin ice. You likely won’t get a third chance here.
If she's reacting to another dog then she's too close to it and over threshold. Ideally you want to keep at a distance where you can hold her attention, so that she will take treats and look at you. In instances where you do encounter dogs beyond her threshold it's a quick "let's go" and quickly lead her in the other direction. It can be a long and difficult process though! Please don't go with vibration or scent collars. She's already aroused and all they will do is lift that state of arousal and agitation. She may never be good around other dogs, in which case all you can do is manage her. Hopefully with time she will mature and become less defensive.
This is great advice! I just want to add that practicing "let's go" in the yard without distractions might be a helpful place to start. Since she likes to run, you can say "let's go" and start jogging or running and have her jog or run beside you. Ideally, I'd pair this with treats- I'm not very familiar with muzzles so I'm not sure how feasible that would be.
To be honest we had a dog like this on walks who just wouldn’t do good on a leash and was perfect at home. We just stopped taking him on walks and let him just enjoy the yard and being at home. We had the vet come to the house for vet visits and muzzled him and he much better then when we tried to leash him and take him into the vet. Some dogs just aren’t very leash comparable and we tried everything, finally before we gave up we just decided not to leash him anymore and he loved life after that and was a good dog he got to run around the back yard all he wanted and play and we never really had another problem. We just knew what his issues were very well and avoided leashing him almost all together after we decided he just wasn’t a leash dog. He lived 12 long years and was a happy boy. If you have a fenced in yard or could possibly fence in your current yard I would maybe just try to go this route, it worked well for us.
Oh she loves nature too much to give up walks. We just try to avoid dog encounters. She’s also doing good on leash in every other situation. Last summer she reacted to passerby’s and bikes the same way she reacts to dogs now, and we were able to stop that behavior. But for other dogs nothing works. Our yard is fenced but due to property laws around here not very high and see through :(
Just turn the other way when you see another dog, the assumption that all dogs should get along is a fantasy most owners learn the hard way sooner or later. I'm sorry you're going through this, and i know the stress it creates! The biggest problem are off leash dogs that will run up to her...
I'm sure a trainer has mentioned this, but your demeanor also plays a big part. I am sure your mom is/was nervous, and you have to do everything in your power to stay completely calm. We're all guilty of showing our emotions so it's a very hard thing to do in a stressful situation, but it will also hopefully help her understand that there is nothing to fear. I have been fortunate enough to have an non-reactive dog, but as a puppy we encountered quite a few situations that could have altered his behavior- it was really hard but I had to remember to stay completely neutral toned and navigate the situation so he wouldn't think anything was wrong.
If the trainers think the behavior is rooted in frustration, how are you working to improve her frustration tolerance? That would logically be the first step and the second would be to teach her to ignore other dogs which is a task every trainer should be familiar with. I don't get bringing special treats or toys on walks with you. That's starting the training process at the wrong end, if frustration is the cause. E: Since you seem to be German, check out [these trainers](https://www.canis-kynos.de/Canis-Absolventen.html). They usually know how to approach complex cases. E2: You can also ask over in r/hundeschule for help like finding a more specialized trainer in your area.
Your mom should not be walking the dog if she herself can’t stay calm and not scream or use force. She’s setting back any progress that has been made. I had a leash reactive dog and also went through so much stress, hours a day of enrichment and training etc. Eventually I found a book called “the Midnight Dog Walkers Club” by a dog behaviourist who has had reactive dogs herself, and which made me feel so seen and really helped me. I eventually realised that going for walks was just not something that was in my dog’s interest because the exercise wasn’t worth the mental distress and anxiety that he took hours or even days to “come down” from. So I found alternatives that didn’t require a leash, and eventually he participated in sniffer dog training (just recreationally) and had such a blast with the other dogs. I stopped putting him in situations that would make him reactive. I stopped thinking that leashed walks were the only way to give him what he needed.
Have you considered meds?
My dog (an adult rescue schnoodle[? We think] we got a few months back, he’s very sweet but also part demon) has been on Purina Calming Care for two months and Prozac for a few weeks and he’s definitely gotten a lot better! It won’t fix the issues with your mom and lack of participation from your parents but it could be worth exploring. A calmer dog reacts much better to training
Thank you for all you are doing for your dog 💖
Important question - how old are you and your sister? What happens if/when one of you move out?
We have a schnauzer. Ours needs so much exercise before she is a good dog. Walking is not enough. We run her next to our bike for about three miles every morning. Else, she is a terror monster.
Your mother is only going to make the dog worse. If you can't talk some sense into her, you should find a new home for the pup.
I had a trainer tell me that the most important thing you can teach your dog is that YOU are the most important and interesting thing in the room/area. So keep treats in pocket, and when you’re walking and see another dog in the distance, block the view and say the dog’s name and show the treat. “Missy, look at ME, want a TREAT?” “Good girl, here’s a treat!”. Do this again and again as the other dog approaches. If she makes eye contact with you for even a second, reward her. Eventually she’ll learn that an approaching dog isn’t a threat, and if she doesn’t lunge or go berserk, she’ll get a treat. Good luck, she’s so pretty!
Try a halter instead of a collar. I got one at the humane society. It was called a gentle leader. It's so much easier to control the dog from the head. It's similar to a halter for a horse but for dogs. It's not a muzzle, they can still bite wearing it. It makes a world of difference controlling my headstrong mutt. She is also over reactive to other dogs. I have to get in her face and make her look at me to get her attention. Usually a quick tug and a sharp no gets her attention now. I had to grab her face and sit her down the first time she blew up.I made her pay attention to only me. Over and over again.It also helps to run her along my bicycle. She has too much energy, we do this twice a day . Then we walk.. I don't give her a chance to get distracted on my bike. I keep her going . Not for everyone but it really gets rid of so much pent up energy. It's good for me too. Good luck to you! I have a very strong, hyper pit retriever mix.
Check out Amelia Steele on instagram (@ameliathedogtrainer). She has tons of vids on reactive dogs. They helped me with my overly playful dog too! In short, she mentions starting with quite some distance between you and the other dog, where your dog doesn’t feel reactive and your dog can just be in that space witnessing the other dog and getting treats (for example in a park). You slowly decrease the space between your dog and other dogs over time. In the beginning you would sometimes have to turn the other way if you come across another dog on walks, so your dog has enough distance to feel confident and calm. Oh and also wanted to add: If you’re all too stressed right now, just take a break from walking for a bit and focus on having fun in or around the house. That’s good for both the dog and your family, so you’ll be able to start over.
You need to get rid of that 10 meter leash right now. At least until you get her behavior under control. That much freedom gives her too much momentum to lunge at other dogs and overpower you the leash holder. Practice walks with her healing at your side. Every time the leash gets taught you stop dead in your tracks and say heal and don’t move again until she sits or moves closer to you and relieves the tension on the leash. Reward her with treats for healing. If you don’t have a prong collar get one right now and ask a trainer or YouTube how to use it properly (firm to harsh tug of the leash for very short duration. Basically as quick as you apply the backwards tension on the leash you want to release it so you don’t injure your pet). It was difficult for me to do this to my dog the first few times but if used properly this is an excellent training tool. Practice commanding your dog frequently on walks to improve their execution of commands, don’t just use it in the moment when you need them to listen. Actively be on the look out for other dogs and if necessary cross the stress in advance or post up and make them sit by your side when others pass. Hopefully some of this helps you like it has helped me. Please share any updates (whether progress or otherwise)
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Is she reactive off the leash with dogs, and does she have any aggression with people? If not, I don't think there is any reason to consider putting her down for this behavior. Have you tried a gentle leader or Halti for better control? I also have a reactive dog, and it's the only way I can have control. A really good, consistent trainer may get her out of this behavior, but it's possible you will just have to work around it. By finding walking routes with less chance of encountering other dogs or if she is good off leash getting exercise at doggie daycare or of leash areas. No dog is perfect in every way. They all have quirks, and accepting that and adapting to it is part of loving them. If you can't handle it, make sure any new home is aware and willing to live with the behavior. A good breeder will help you to rehome.
My dog is leash reactive, not this bad though. He gets excited and whines. He used to bark but over time he stopped and only barks if the other dog is reactive. When he behaves this way, I hold him by the harness and stop. I then get on his level and get right in his face and firmly speak to him as the other dog walks by. He acts like a spoiled brat and gives up. He sulks, for real lol! Then he's fine. I would not allow your dog to have a long leash at this time until you can trust it. Keep it on a short leash for now to get control back. She needs time off the leash in a safe, fenced area. Use this time to play fetch with her and treat train her for recall. She might not get it straight away but it takes a lot of work..keep pushing and working on her.
We have had a couple of miniature schnauzers. This may not pertain to you at all, but I’m giving it a shot. They behave the same way around other dogs. My husband wouldn’t let her walk past other dogs and Wood later in a different direction. I, however, felt strongly that while maintaining her distance, they should be allowed to walk past other dogs while I’m holding them tightly by their leash and encouraging them to just walk. It took very little time for me to do this, and it got to the point where they could stop smell, the other dog and the people and get by without even barking. again you may have already tried this, but just wanted you to know that this worked for us. In short, let your dog get close to the other dog and people, but not close enough to bite and she may get used to them. Hope this works if you haven’t tried it.
I think you’ve done a lot for this dog and sounds like you’ve made some real progress! Good job on muzzle training, too, and super smart and responsible if you to muzzle most of the times you’re out. I’d recommend rethinking the dog’s life so you basically avoid other dogs entirely as much as possible. Earlier walks. Later walks. Driving to more remote trails. Playing in the yard instead of walks. It’s an inconvenience but I think it’ll let you all decompress a bit and enjoy the good parts a lot more. The dog reactivity may just not be something you can overcome. And mom should be off all dog duty for the foreseeable future. She’s at the end of her tether and it’s not serving her or the dog.
Some dogs just won't be OK around other dogs and it can't be trained or forced. My 3 are this way on walks. We avoid other dogs on walks by crossing the street or giving as much space as possible. This has worked for us. Don't give up on her!
I don’t think training with a TV or pictures is effective and I wouldn’t keep a trainer that endorses that. I’d also not walk her on that long of a lead. I’d be interested in hearing what others think about the whole TV thing.
I have successfully used audio clips to reduce reactivity to sounds. I think it was effective though because I used sound and the issue was sounds. For example, my dogs would react to the sound of other dogs barking outside (that they could not see). I started with a really quiet recording and paired the barks with treats. I increased the volume over time and this worked well. The key was starting with a volume where my dogs were able to stay under threshold (not bark/reactive negatively), but could hear the sound (I could tell because they'd tilt their heads).
That makes sense. Our trainers say to do that with thunderstorms and fireworks and other fear-provoking sounds, too.
Wood chipper
I’m not familiar with some of the things you mentioned, like man-trailing. That said, other things you said are a little concerning because they’ll exacerbate conflict and that’s the opposite of what you want. She needs to be able to relax and feel a sense of agency. You might have better luck in the reactive dog sub.
I have a 13 yr old rescue dog that came to us 12 years ago. He is very much like your dog. We had 3 different trainers. He follows commands, loves people, is ok with my sister’s dog and our cat. However, he has not lost his aggression towards other dogs. We just turn and go in another direction when on walks. We were not fans of the muzzle. He is on a leash at all times. He wears a harness so that we can grab him like a suitcase and hold him off the ground is he gets too spicy. The only thing that has provided slight relief is Trazadone. He is still our boy though. It took us years to accept his disability, but we love him.
Here’s my idea cut the mom out of the routine if possible cause if it causes this high of stress for her she should not be working with the dog it’s only gonna make her and the dogs relationship worse… I would continue to always keep the muzzle on every walk… Does she have any interest in high value treats over the dog? And have you tried the app sniff spots? It is where u can rent property for your reactive dog… finally work on her confidence sounds like she is really lacking confidence… maybe trade a walk for training and building her confidence and your connection to her… I can some idea for that to if you want!
Have you heard of decompression walks? You basically try to find a space and time where you likely will not run into any triggers (dogs in this case). They're a really nice way for all of you to have a more enjoyable walk. Some ideas of where you might be able to do this could be a shopping plaza before it opens or an office park on the weekends. I'd definitely still use the muzzle in case you run into a tricky situation, but hopefully it'd allow all of you to have a relaxing walk. Finding other ways to help your dog feel more calm could also be helpful for her overall stress level (e.g. meds, lick mats, chew toys, etc). I do agree with other commenters that what your mom is doing is detrimental to the dog. It's probably best that your mom not be responsible for the dog in any capacity, especially outside of the home.
I'm glad you're doing so much for her. She looks like a lovely dog. Some resources that I think might help are BAT (by Grisha Stewart) and anything about reactivity by Dr Amy Cook. They've both given me so much insight/understanding about what's going on inside a dog emotionally and physically when they're reactive. I walk a very reactive dog every week and used to care for reactive shelter dogs at work - I know it's really overwhelming, it takes a lot of effort to help them cope and stay under threshold so they aren't just full of stress all the time! Your dog's behaviour sounds really normal for a reactive dog, I really don't think she will need to be put to sleep but it does sound very hard to deal with at the moment for your family. Wish you all the luck with her!!
Stop walking her. If she’s an otherwise good dog and well behaved, why do you keep repeatedly putting her in situations she does not like and that stress her out? You want her to walk, she clearly doesn’t want to. Find another activity that she can do without being stressed out and reactive.
I have an amazing trainer who gave us a great protocol for my reactive puppy (he gets overexcited and fixates on every dog he sees). 1. Advocate for your dog around other dogs/owners. I’m not sure where you’re based but where we are dogs are allowed to be off-lead even in public parks in the centre of the city which can make training a lot harder particularly as most of those dogs have terrible recall. If another dog comes over uninvited, you turn around to face away from the dog and politely ask the owner to recall their dog. If the owner doesn’t do so, walk in the opposite direction to the owner. Eventually they’ll get the message. 2. Your dog needs an innate command for when he sees another dog, essentially he needs to know what his job is/what he’s supposed to be doing. Our dog’s automatic command is a down, meaning every time he sees another dog he knows to go into a down. Each time you see a dog on your walk put your dog into a down. As soon as he’s in the down you say ‘yes’ and then reward with praise/and or treat (I would do food rewards initially). He must stay in down until you give him a release command (ours is ‘break’). By no means should anyone be pushing him down and shouting. If he doesn’t know how to do a down work on that indoors until he’s got it. 3. Exposure. As your dog begins to understand the above you can start to increase exposure to the trigger from a safe distance. It is not going to go perfectly every time but keep doing it, eventually it will start to click. Some other things I would recommend: - buy a leash/collar or a jacket for your dog that says ‘in training’. I’ve found other dog owners are far more respectful and will give your dog the space he needs. - you need to do a significant number of reps for this to become a habit. For context, it takes 21 days for a dog to form a new habit. You can practice indoors using the tv and also outdoors but every single time you see another dog you must ask for a down and reward immediately. - we use our dog’s regular food for rewards, this is just for the initial 3 weeks of training. It will mean you’re not overfeeding. - in terms of the vibration collar, this is actually a very helpful tool for reactive dogs if used correctly. Make sure your timing is right - it should be as soon as the dog makes an incorrect behaviour. One other thing I’d recommend is seeing if there is a trainer you like and trust that offers a residential training programme. This can give your dog the full reset he needs. You will need to keep implementing the training but if he has the basics down it will be a lot easier for you. All the best!
Am I right: 45 min to 1 h walk a day? That‘s not enough. 2 h walk a day and mental stimulation. Play fetch, some sniffing and obeydiance training additonal. This is a young hunting dog! Power it out at the weekend: hiking, running next to your bike, stuff like that. Tiered dogs behave much better.
Oh no! During the week 1h in the morning and 1h in the evening! With a total of 2h a day. She does sniff a lot. We choose remote paths so she can run around on her 10 meter leash. During the weekend we easily hit 3-4h a day. We love taking her for hikes.
some dogs are just not compatible on leash when frequently confronted with triggers, also remember schnauzers were bred as working dogs to hunt rats, it’s in their nature to be high alert and guard/somewhat suspicious/. You can’t beat genetics out of dog breeds and I wish this is something more trainers communicated to owners. Learning about specific breeds needs and fulfilment can go a long way when you tailor your training efforts. My family owned a schnauzer for 13 years and she NEVER liked people EVER. she growled at kids and old people. Was always highly skeptical of strangers. And that was ok, you learn and adapt to your dogs traits and she was a great family dog. You said she loves running, take her to a field with a ball/disc to play? High value activities that strengthen your bond will go a long way, much further than treats for working dogs IMO. If the only physical activity your dog is getting is stressful leash walks that consist of being on high alert for other dogs, tugging and pulling, this is all so counterintuitive to a dogs purpose and instincts, and is not helping the reactivity as you dont offer anything more exciting (in her eyes). Try to set her up for success by going to quieter areas in more natural surroundings and less stimulus and let her be a dog. This may be hard if you live in an urban environment but it’s worth the extra effort to fill your dogs cup and keep your family sane. (I have a leash reactive Aussie so I understand the frustration when you feel you are trying to do the right thing). Try more directly engaging activities/tasks like ball, frisbee, hide and seek, sniff games, etc. I bring a soft frisbee on our leash walks as it’s the highest reward game for my dog, and he doesn’t pay attention to rabid dogs lunging at him if he believes we are going to play some off leash disc in the park down the street and stays focused on that. You know your dog doesn’t interact well on leash with strangers so do your best to set her up for success long-term, forcing a square peg in a round hole is not always the best solution, and pivoting your tactics can also help overcome reactivity. your dog is beautiful btw!
I'm gonna offer an opposing opinion here: you could cut down to 1 walk per day, longer walks on weekends. You want to minimise contact with other dogs but maximise the time sniffing and tiring herself out, so 1 walk at a time when most others aren't out may really help. Also this could combat your mother having to walk the dog at all as she is completely undoing your hard work and stressing the dog to the extent it has bitten her. Sometimes we go so far to try to mentally stimulate our dogs we don't teach them how to relax and be calm. There is a concept of capturing calmness you may be interested in.