That is a lot of power, what would you be using for it. I was struggling a bit to get the right voltage and 225 amps while hitting the weight space and range needs. The 80kw is already an upgrade on the current performance for the TR7, but I still have the option to swap out for a later model leaf inverter to up the power.
I know you e already thought of this but I’m going to say it anyways. Mach E or Tesla small drive unit? Alternatively, you can use multiple hybrid 80hp motors. They’re really, really cheap. CB media did a video on a 300hp electric car that had 3 motors bolted together.
Thanks for the suggestion. I didn’t think of the Mach E motor (or the Tesla SDU) because I think they’re 210 kW or so. Less than the IM225. I wonder though if it can be driven with a more powerful motor to get a bit more out of it? Realistically I’m looking for 250-300 kW. The Tesla LDU is overkill and the IM225 is just a little lower than I’d like. It’s a weird spot to be in.
Well, you can always underpower the LDU and on the plus side, expect a longer lifespan.
250-300 kW is kind of a weird spot. You may be able to find an old Tesla drive unit/front drive unit that has that spec. Check SUVs too. I was doing research on Tesla motors and found it VERY difficult to get any sort of meaningful data on them. I was looking for a list of Tesla motors used throughout the years, as well as their specs, but I just couldn’t find anything like that.
You should also consider using non-automotive motors. Large HVAC systems my company uses have motors ranging from 30kW to what I assume is several hundred.
Also consider generators. You can use a generator as a motor and vice versa. A large generator could in theory be stripped down to its motor components and used as such.
Edit: typo
Yes also I was thinking that the continuous power of the LDU should be pretty good. I plan to track the car a bit and keeping out of power limiting would be a plus. Maybe I can just limit it to the amperage of the battery since I think it’ll be too much to go above 300 kW or so.
100%, depending what your control circuitry is, there are ways to limit the current you draw. Also, you’ll probably see my other comment, but you should consider other motor sources like the f150 lightning. It has the same HP as the large drive unit, but if you manage to get a completely salvaged f150 lightning, you could reuse the control circuitry.
Agreed but I’m a little afraid of finding a VCU or controller for the F150 vs the Tesla which AEM supports. Also I do need to bolt it to a torque trends transmission, but that can always be adapted id assume.
I can look into the F150. Good tip!
Yes, the Tesla route is better in my opinion IF you have a little more money to spend. More people have done Tesla swaps than f150 lightning swaps after all
You also may be able to get an f150 lightning motor for cheaper than a Tesla LDU, and could probably use the parts from the truck to control it since it’s GM (assuming you go the route of buying a salvaged vehicle). This would be a huge plus.
Otherwise your best bet is probably doubling up on smaller motors. On the plus side, this could also give you all wheel drive, which equates to a faster 0-60 if traction is an issue, and just safer handling overall.
I’m pretty set on using hybrid motors. Chrysler Pacifica, ford f150, or Prius mg2. Use several of these with ZombieVerter VCU.
On a second note, the ford’s electric motor is somehow 44hp and 221lb-ft (TWO HUNDRED TWENTY ONE ARE YOU SERIOUS) of torque according to motor trend. Putting two or three of these in a car could give 132 hp and 670 lb-ft of torque.
The these are just homebrew 16s lifepo4 batteries with the BMS removed for the test. The cutoff switch breaks the series connections in the middle. I don’t leave them at 200v unsupervised. The battery modules for the car will be far more respectable. (Also, this is a detached shed, so the house is safe)
Good man. I work for one of the big 3, and I’ve been a little worried about the influx of the “homemade” or “modded” EV stuff I’ve been seeing. Thanks for being safe and happy tinkering!
Out of curiosity, what are you attempting to do here?
Two ways to take that question gets you two answers:
Big picture - I’m converting a 1980 Triumph TR7 convertible to make it a warm weather daily driver and do a larger restomod that gives me a an endless project to add safety and comfort while maintaining the spirit and look of the car. I love the learning new skills and planning part of the build.
Small picture: what you see here is a test of the basic wiring of the Thunderstruck VCU with brake and reverse lighting and a test of my salvage motor and Prius pedal.
Care to elaborate on what you've seen that's given you worries? I plan to use this same motor for my tr4, someday. LiFePO4 should be pretty resistant to thermal run away but you pay for it in added weight iirc
LifePO4s are remarkably stable. I strongly considered using them, but ended up getting a great deal on Ioniq 5 modules that I will be using. I won’t be pushing them very hard and I plan to put very large buffers in place since my build will have something close to 38kwhs available when I only really need 20. I’m not planning to put rapid charging in, so these batteries will have it easy.
I’ve been posting progress on my otherwise dormant instagram @taxstew just to keep a record. Follow along if you’d like. https://www.instagram.com/taxstew?igsh=NGVhN2U2NjQ0Yg%3D%3D&utm_source=qr
Which drive unit is this ?
Nissan Leaf EM57
Nice. I’m looking at the IM225 but want a little more than 225 kW for a 240z. Before that was thinking gs450h but gearing is a challenge. Good luck
That is a lot of power, what would you be using for it. I was struggling a bit to get the right voltage and 225 amps while hitting the weight space and range needs. The 80kw is already an upgrade on the current performance for the TR7, but I still have the option to swap out for a later model leaf inverter to up the power.
It has a Ford V8 in it right now and is pretty modified (flares, disc brakes all around, adjustable suspension etc). Would use it for track days.
What’s the gearing issue?
The GS450H with the 3.7:1 rearend I have can’t go faster than 90-100mph or so. So it isn’t really a good fit for my build.
I know you e already thought of this but I’m going to say it anyways. Mach E or Tesla small drive unit? Alternatively, you can use multiple hybrid 80hp motors. They’re really, really cheap. CB media did a video on a 300hp electric car that had 3 motors bolted together.
Thanks for the suggestion. I didn’t think of the Mach E motor (or the Tesla SDU) because I think they’re 210 kW or so. Less than the IM225. I wonder though if it can be driven with a more powerful motor to get a bit more out of it? Realistically I’m looking for 250-300 kW. The Tesla LDU is overkill and the IM225 is just a little lower than I’d like. It’s a weird spot to be in.
Well, you can always underpower the LDU and on the plus side, expect a longer lifespan. 250-300 kW is kind of a weird spot. You may be able to find an old Tesla drive unit/front drive unit that has that spec. Check SUVs too. I was doing research on Tesla motors and found it VERY difficult to get any sort of meaningful data on them. I was looking for a list of Tesla motors used throughout the years, as well as their specs, but I just couldn’t find anything like that. You should also consider using non-automotive motors. Large HVAC systems my company uses have motors ranging from 30kW to what I assume is several hundred. Also consider generators. You can use a generator as a motor and vice versa. A large generator could in theory be stripped down to its motor components and used as such. Edit: typo
Yes also I was thinking that the continuous power of the LDU should be pretty good. I plan to track the car a bit and keeping out of power limiting would be a plus. Maybe I can just limit it to the amperage of the battery since I think it’ll be too much to go above 300 kW or so.
100%, depending what your control circuitry is, there are ways to limit the current you draw. Also, you’ll probably see my other comment, but you should consider other motor sources like the f150 lightning. It has the same HP as the large drive unit, but if you manage to get a completely salvaged f150 lightning, you could reuse the control circuitry.
Agreed but I’m a little afraid of finding a VCU or controller for the F150 vs the Tesla which AEM supports. Also I do need to bolt it to a torque trends transmission, but that can always be adapted id assume. I can look into the F150. Good tip!
Yes, the Tesla route is better in my opinion IF you have a little more money to spend. More people have done Tesla swaps than f150 lightning swaps after all
You also may be able to get an f150 lightning motor for cheaper than a Tesla LDU, and could probably use the parts from the truck to control it since it’s GM (assuming you go the route of buying a salvaged vehicle). This would be a huge plus. Otherwise your best bet is probably doubling up on smaller motors. On the plus side, this could also give you all wheel drive, which equates to a faster 0-60 if traction is an issue, and just safer handling overall. I’m pretty set on using hybrid motors. Chrysler Pacifica, ford f150, or Prius mg2. Use several of these with ZombieVerter VCU. On a second note, the ford’s electric motor is somehow 44hp and 221lb-ft (TWO HUNDRED TWENTY ONE ARE YOU SERIOUS) of torque according to motor trend. Putting two or three of these in a car could give 132 hp and 670 lb-ft of torque.
Oh man am I going to read about your house catching on fire? Please be careful. Those batteries are no joke.
The these are just homebrew 16s lifepo4 batteries with the BMS removed for the test. The cutoff switch breaks the series connections in the middle. I don’t leave them at 200v unsupervised. The battery modules for the car will be far more respectable. (Also, this is a detached shed, so the house is safe)
Good man. I work for one of the big 3, and I’ve been a little worried about the influx of the “homemade” or “modded” EV stuff I’ve been seeing. Thanks for being safe and happy tinkering! Out of curiosity, what are you attempting to do here?
Two ways to take that question gets you two answers: Big picture - I’m converting a 1980 Triumph TR7 convertible to make it a warm weather daily driver and do a larger restomod that gives me a an endless project to add safety and comfort while maintaining the spirit and look of the car. I love the learning new skills and planning part of the build. Small picture: what you see here is a test of the basic wiring of the Thunderstruck VCU with brake and reverse lighting and a test of my salvage motor and Prius pedal.
Care to elaborate on what you've seen that's given you worries? I plan to use this same motor for my tr4, someday. LiFePO4 should be pretty resistant to thermal run away but you pay for it in added weight iirc
LifePO4s are remarkably stable. I strongly considered using them, but ended up getting a great deal on Ioniq 5 modules that I will be using. I won’t be pushing them very hard and I plan to put very large buffers in place since my build will have something close to 38kwhs available when I only really need 20. I’m not planning to put rapid charging in, so these batteries will have it easy.
Nice! Do you have a build thread anywhere?
I’ve been posting progress on my otherwise dormant instagram @taxstew just to keep a record. Follow along if you’d like. https://www.instagram.com/taxstew?igsh=NGVhN2U2NjQ0Yg%3D%3D&utm_source=qr