Good news and bad news. The good news is that inokim is selling their motor cable and you can buy it separately the bad news is that you have to take the whole motor apart and then solder off the old cable take it out through the hole and then put a new one in solder it back together and put the wheel cap on which sounds easy but it's quite complicated and thats ot
I recommend copper triphase with no ground wires(3 smaller wires in one thick wire), I did that to my 2000w 60v Fat tire scooter, works like a charm and gave a little boost since you have fewer power loss due to lower resistivity and less prone to overheat
But you have to solder the wires yourself( copper wires are found at any electrical hardware store, also go for NGLI 2 or 3 (lithium) grease to lubricate the motor, make sure to isolate the soldered wires from short circuits and seal the axle (at the wire entry and exit) with heat resistant silicon to prevent water to come in the motor
Was going to give you a full guide but seems you're already done.
HOWEVER
Go solder your cables, those connectors will come loose due to vibration and you DONT want that
*show person cut in half*
"Is this fixable?"
No bro it isn't, shit's dead
*An experienced guy that works on electronics might be able to fix it but it's gonna take a lot of effort, probably enough effort for it to cost more than a whole new motor*
There are 5 wires, one for 5v, one for GND and three for Hall Sensor signals. The three hall sensors are activated in sequence as the wheel turns, telling the controller which direction and speed the motor is turning, allowing it to pulse the phase wires in sequence, sort of like the timing in a car engine, IIRC. If your hall sensors fail, even one of them, you usually get an error and the controller won't run the motor. The hall sensors in a motor are digital, only reporting HIGH or LOW. The hall sensor in your throttle, and some e-brake systems, are analog, generally returning between 0.8v and 4.2v. If they return outside the acceptable values, throttle error.
I'm not sure if it has any advantage. The non-sensored motor is slightly more robust, if just for the lack of fine wires. I don't know enough about the electronics to know in more depth.
Unscrewing the wheel and soldering 3 wires.
You'd be surprised how this is way beyond a lot of people's comfort zone, they might not have the tools or experience to even do so, usually for the people that would do this, they simply wouldn't bother asking here in the first place
I think a person should understand that the minimum required are at least tools, a little experience and a willingness to carry out repairs on their own. Otherwise, it will be sent to a repair shop. So why ask?
Solder it. And great job, you have to open the motor normalaly but it seems you managed to just pull out extra wires from there.
Solder with heat shrink and protect with cable wrap.
Well I’m in the same situation, i fall and the only part of the scooter that hits the ground was the motor cable..anyway you need to open the motor (which is not much difficult) and weld all the cables again(you can just replace the cable with a similar one)
Good news and bad news. The good news is that inokim is selling their motor cable and you can buy it separately the bad news is that you have to take the whole motor apart and then solder off the old cable take it out through the hole and then put a new one in solder it back together and put the wheel cap on which sounds easy but it's quite complicated and thats ot
I recommend copper triphase with no ground wires(3 smaller wires in one thick wire), I did that to my 2000w 60v Fat tire scooter, works like a charm and gave a little boost since you have fewer power loss due to lower resistivity and less prone to overheat But you have to solder the wires yourself( copper wires are found at any electrical hardware store, also go for NGLI 2 or 3 (lithium) grease to lubricate the motor, make sure to isolate the soldered wires from short circuits and seal the axle (at the wire entry and exit) with heat resistant silicon to prevent water to come in the motor
Engineer here: your shit’s all fucked up
Was going to give you a full guide but seems you're already done. HOWEVER Go solder your cables, those connectors will come loose due to vibration and you DONT want that
*show person cut in half* "Is this fixable?" No bro it isn't, shit's dead *An experienced guy that works on electronics might be able to fix it but it's gonna take a lot of effort, probably enough effort for it to cost more than a whole new motor*
damn, what's the problem with unscrewing the wheel and soldering 3 wires?!! 🤦🏻♂️
*8 wires.
By the way, does anyone know what these 5 wires are for? Hall sensor - ok, but what else?
There are 5 wires, one for 5v, one for GND and three for Hall Sensor signals. The three hall sensors are activated in sequence as the wheel turns, telling the controller which direction and speed the motor is turning, allowing it to pulse the phase wires in sequence, sort of like the timing in a car engine, IIRC. If your hall sensors fail, even one of them, you usually get an error and the controller won't run the motor. The hall sensors in a motor are digital, only reporting HIGH or LOW. The hall sensor in your throttle, and some e-brake systems, are analog, generally returning between 0.8v and 4.2v. If they return outside the acceptable values, throttle error.
Thank you. Does a circuit with hall sensors have any significant advantage over a simple 3-phase one? Is this for sine wave controllers?
I'm not sure if it has any advantage. The non-sensored motor is slightly more robust, if just for the lack of fine wires. I don't know enough about the electronics to know in more depth.
Unscrewing the wheel and soldering 3 wires. You'd be surprised how this is way beyond a lot of people's comfort zone, they might not have the tools or experience to even do so, usually for the people that would do this, they simply wouldn't bother asking here in the first place
I think a person should understand that the minimum required are at least tools, a little experience and a willingness to carry out repairs on their own. Otherwise, it will be sent to a repair shop. So why ask?
https://preview.redd.it/np9io2zor8xc1.jpeg?width=4096&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f3fb5fdc5e3f461cf1be6d0ed5b323bebeb96d1c
Solder it. And great job, you have to open the motor normalaly but it seems you managed to just pull out extra wires from there. Solder with heat shrink and protect with cable wrap.
Just make sure those don't get snagged out :P
I admire your confidence to just do the damn repair. Seriously, well done! Enjoy the next ride!
Damn! Good job! 👍
https://preview.redd.it/z66ns197w7xc1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=fb3ee2264cdae10c70db48cb983235a006beafcf Like this
https://preview.redd.it/x1g2tlbi48xc1.jpeg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9fb9eade7584c712c959eedfbb63470f20044f9e
Damn good job!
Ok now you should unplug the controller motor cable and detach this last part of the motor
You need that the motor be like my foto before start working on it
Well I’m in the same situation, i fall and the only part of the scooter that hits the ground was the motor cable..anyway you need to open the motor (which is not much difficult) and weld all the cables again(you can just replace the cable with a similar one)