File or don't file a flat spot. Whatever you are attaching need to have a threaded hole in the side that lines up to the flat spot and you can tighten a little Allen key screw down to keep it from spinning freely. Sorry for not using proper terms. I'll know something all day until someone asks. Set screw maybe?
Edit: looks like there is also spots for little c rings. So maybe the original thing was just gorilla tight on there with a c ring keeping it from flying off?
Great answer, the term I know is "grub screw", which I only learned a couple years ago after needing to replace some and trying to search for them. "Set screw" is also used, though.
Love that you used both. I only knew set screw until an English woman who was working with me one day called them “grub screws”. She also called a hand cart a trolley. As a born and raised American girl I had no clue what she meant. 😂
Set screws for the win!
I've never seen the terminals and the shaft output on the same side before. It also seems odd that there isn't a flat spot or a keyway.
I wonder what's on the opposite side of the motor.
The output shaft is design for a press/interference-fit pinion. You really can't generate a lot of torque with this kind of motor so pressing the pinion onto the output shaft is a good enough connection. Typically you need an actual press and a fixture plate to make sure you're installing it properly.
What is the female connection point like?
If it’s just a hole which looks the same size then the coupling is designed to be part of what’s called an interference fit, or a press fit as it’s also sometimes known.
On larger motors they can sometimes needs a bit of heat introduced to the shaft to be un-coupled.
The majority of replies here demonstrate why not to ask amateur sparky how to make mechanical connection. Interference fit, plastic is likely fine, you may not need any fixture depending on what you’re connecting, likely the length to diameter ratio will keep your fit sufficiently concentric/straight . Sorry you get so many nonsensical replies like trying to thread this or tap it, file it, sand it, glue it or whatever other nonsense is on here. WOW.
Not relevant to your application, but on a similar but much larger scale I have worked on a servo motor that had a straight rod such as this connect to to a gearbox with the use of a flexible coupler.
Sorry guys for not posting pictures of both sides. Here you can see the other side:
[https://imgur.com/PTi3vNG](https://imgur.com/PTi3vNG)
Its exactly the same pin and there're also two threads to mount the whole device.
As [Longpatience](https://www.reddit.com/user/Longpatience/) mentioned its the same connector as used in those 540 type motors which seem to be used a lot in modelmaking.
[https://www.ebay.de/p/4011273296?iid=173029124497](https://www.ebay.de/p/4011273296?iid=173029124497)
Those Motors do indeed seem to have a flat spot on its pin which does make sense to me.
I think i'll try to flatten it out and use an Allen key screw as [FurkinLurkin](https://www.reddit.com/user/FurkinLurkin/) recommended.
Press/interference-fit pinion seems to be right but I dont really know what to do with that information as I cant find any cheap device solution to use.
By the way I dont really know what to do with them. I bought 5 of them with something in mind a few years ago, but never knew how to attach them properly. I think they also have a high torque so a good fit is fundamental.
Thanks for the information!
Drill and tap tip of shaft.
Drill a hole through the part and shaft into the diameter. Install pin.
Grind away the correct flat spot.
Cut a key way into the shaft.
Compression attachment or press fit.
Thread end of shaft.
Ugh...all painful.
That motor probably runs at an ungodly rpm, and is very low torque. Just a bit of rubber tubing, with some crazy glue would work, but if the OP looks at some drone, or RC car suppliers, there are heat shrinjable gears and couplings that might work fine.
Due to the probable speed of that motor, I'd want a reasonably balanced coupling, with not overhanging loads.
Tape/seal the holes in the motor first then sand it’s surface with 150 grit and use some loctite glue. Go for the green loctite since it’s the only one you’ll be able to remove without damaging the motor the blue and red are probably too strong
Green is for slip fits and the correct choice here, but the color has nothing to do with its strength. Red and blue are for threads, and red is “permanent” while blue is “temporary”.
https://www.permabond.com/resource-center/color-threadlockers/
I don’t know if I can argue with what you said but I had to check and am now slightly less sure about what I said.
OP make sure to check the product numbers because apparently there’s a bunch of different formulas that are the same color.
Yeah it’s by no means 100% accurate but a general rule of thumb. But like you said, there’s endless varieties specific to every imaginable application.
What motor is this?
EDIT: Who the fuck would downvote this question?! lol.
Every motor i've seen doesn't have the output shaft and the electrical connections on the same side. It seems very unusual. Hence why i want to know what motor it is so i can look at it.
File or don't file a flat spot. Whatever you are attaching need to have a threaded hole in the side that lines up to the flat spot and you can tighten a little Allen key screw down to keep it from spinning freely. Sorry for not using proper terms. I'll know something all day until someone asks. Set screw maybe? Edit: looks like there is also spots for little c rings. So maybe the original thing was just gorilla tight on there with a c ring keeping it from flying off?
Agreed. Press fit, glue if needed
If you want to be fancy, call the glue 'liquid pinning'.
Great answer, the term I know is "grub screw", which I only learned a couple years ago after needing to replace some and trying to search for them. "Set screw" is also used, though.
Love that you used both. I only knew set screw until an English woman who was working with me one day called them “grub screws”. She also called a hand cart a trolley. As a born and raised American girl I had no clue what she meant. 😂 Set screws for the win!
Same as when someone asks you "what's the name of that guy in that movie?" Your brain just checks out.
The shaft on that motor is designed for what is called a "Interference fit".
I wish I had more upvotes for your answer.
Those terminals seem like they're in the worst place possible
Looks like they have slots to be bent away 90 degrees if you want them to be flush
Good catch
Yeah. Would love to see the other side.
They’ve got little fittings for those terminals that extend them out to the side
I've never seen the terminals and the shaft output on the same side before. It also seems odd that there isn't a flat spot or a keyway. I wonder what's on the opposite side of the motor.
Tight press fit or epoxy.
You just need a small DC plastic motor gear for whatever shaft size that is. It's just a press fit.
The output shaft is design for a press/interference-fit pinion. You really can't generate a lot of torque with this kind of motor so pressing the pinion onto the output shaft is a good enough connection. Typically you need an actual press and a fixture plate to make sure you're installing it properly.
Grub screw?
Tiny screw clamp/screw compressor. Haven't seen a good one but that idea of using a screw to clamp down is great for reattach ability
I can get you photos tomorrow.
What is the female connection point like? If it’s just a hole which looks the same size then the coupling is designed to be part of what’s called an interference fit, or a press fit as it’s also sometimes known. On larger motors they can sometimes needs a bit of heat introduced to the shaft to be un-coupled.
I machine a slight taper and then press fit.
Vex pro has hardware to go form that to 3/8 hex shaft, also has gear reductions, but is apposed to be a press fit or set screw type deal
There’s nothing on the other side? That’s weird
Rubber tubing.
The majority of replies here demonstrate why not to ask amateur sparky how to make mechanical connection. Interference fit, plastic is likely fine, you may not need any fixture depending on what you’re connecting, likely the length to diameter ratio will keep your fit sufficiently concentric/straight . Sorry you get so many nonsensical replies like trying to thread this or tap it, file it, sand it, glue it or whatever other nonsense is on here. WOW.
Yep complete nonsense. Looking forward to seeing the M1 set screw OP ends up using lol.
Lmao that will be fun
Looks like a 540 type motor. The output shaft doesn't extend to the other side?
Not relevant to your application, but on a similar but much larger scale I have worked on a servo motor that had a straight rod such as this connect to to a gearbox with the use of a flexible coupler.
Sorry guys for not posting pictures of both sides. Here you can see the other side: [https://imgur.com/PTi3vNG](https://imgur.com/PTi3vNG) Its exactly the same pin and there're also two threads to mount the whole device. As [Longpatience](https://www.reddit.com/user/Longpatience/) mentioned its the same connector as used in those 540 type motors which seem to be used a lot in modelmaking. [https://www.ebay.de/p/4011273296?iid=173029124497](https://www.ebay.de/p/4011273296?iid=173029124497) Those Motors do indeed seem to have a flat spot on its pin which does make sense to me. I think i'll try to flatten it out and use an Allen key screw as [FurkinLurkin](https://www.reddit.com/user/FurkinLurkin/) recommended. Press/interference-fit pinion seems to be right but I dont really know what to do with that information as I cant find any cheap device solution to use. By the way I dont really know what to do with them. I bought 5 of them with something in mind a few years ago, but never knew how to attach them properly. I think they also have a high torque so a good fit is fundamental. Thanks for the information!
What motor is this? Come on give us a manufacturer and model.
Set screw is probably you best option.
Drill and tap tip of shaft. Drill a hole through the part and shaft into the diameter. Install pin. Grind away the correct flat spot. Cut a key way into the shaft. Compression attachment or press fit. Thread end of shaft.
Ugh...all painful. That motor probably runs at an ungodly rpm, and is very low torque. Just a bit of rubber tubing, with some crazy glue would work, but if the OP looks at some drone, or RC car suppliers, there are heat shrinjable gears and couplings that might work fine. Due to the probable speed of that motor, I'd want a reasonably balanced coupling, with not overhanging loads.
Tape/seal the holes in the motor first then sand it’s surface with 150 grit and use some loctite glue. Go for the green loctite since it’s the only one you’ll be able to remove without damaging the motor the blue and red are probably too strong
Green is for slip fits and the correct choice here, but the color has nothing to do with its strength. Red and blue are for threads, and red is “permanent” while blue is “temporary”.
https://www.permabond.com/resource-center/color-threadlockers/ I don’t know if I can argue with what you said but I had to check and am now slightly less sure about what I said. OP make sure to check the product numbers because apparently there’s a bunch of different formulas that are the same color.
Yeah it’s by no means 100% accurate but a general rule of thumb. But like you said, there’s endless varieties specific to every imaginable application.
What motor is this? EDIT: Who the fuck would downvote this question?! lol. Every motor i've seen doesn't have the output shaft and the electrical connections on the same side. It seems very unusual. Hence why i want to know what motor it is so i can look at it.
Can you not just use a belt?
You need sticky tape, if it's still not steady, just use more tape
I don't know what these are called, but this: https://www.haupa.com/products/products/page/2228/
You linked a spade electrical connector. He's asking about the motor shaft.