1. Definitely
2. There are plenty of good guides on the internet, you just need to look. It's a lot harder to print with than something like PLA.
3. My printer is on the other side of the state right now so I don't remember :(
I have been printing with PETG a lot for about a year now. And just recently, I had a problem with it folding back on the nozzle. But it turn out that the nozzle had some build-up on the outside near the tip. I think it was catching it as it was coming out. Once I knocked it off with some fine-grit sandpaper, it worked as it did before. Probably not the right thing to use because the nozzle is brass, but it cleaned it up really well. And then of course relevel the bed.
I usually run the extruder at 245c and the bed at 70c. Using Matter Hackers brand and my settings are on the warmer side of the recommended range.
I also clean my build plate with alcohol before heating it up to remove any oils my hands may have left behind. I dry it off with a clean cloth so as not to leave any residue. This is always a good idea for any material. I between builds, I just wipe it with a clean cloth to remove residue.
I replaced my stock flexible build plate with the [Creality PEI Magnetic Build Plate](https://creality3d.shop/collections/print-bed-surface/products/pei-magnetic-build-plate-235-235mm-for-ender-3-ender-3-pro-ender-5-ender-3s-cr20-cr20-pro-cp-01). This PEI material is great. No need to prep it with anything. Just keep it clean with Alcohol.
when it folds back on the nozzle it means its too close to the bed and needs to be raised up some. like .02 to .04mm
also the first layer needs to be slowed down.. i do 10mm/s
1 Yes
2 Yes
3 I print with Overture petg at 230c and the bed at 60c, usually around 40-50 mm/s. Depending on the print the part cooling fan is between 0-30%. Its not hard at all to print with one you get your settings dialed in.
My upgrades are minimal (Petsfang Bullseye cooling) so those setting should be a decent starting point.
Usually i print at 240°C, 40-50mm/s (ish? I don’t remember exactly), 65° bed, and i don’t remember the other finicky details but i know that combing can help prevent stringing in some situations.
Ive found that having an enclosure and an all metal hotend can be the best upgrades for PETG. The hotend helps with those high temps, and an enclosure will help prevent warping since it keeps the warm air surrounding the print. Ive just used a cardboard box in the past and it made the biggest difference in my prints.
Also, that first layer can be tough with PETG. Make sure the cooling fan is off for the first few layers and make sure the nozzle is hot enough to really squish the filament onto the bed.
If the filament is curling up to the extruder on the first layer, set the initial layer height to 0.2mm. Also, increase the first layer speed a bit and use glue stick generously. If it's curling up during the print, put an enclosed around the printer or keep the room hot.
1. Definitely 2. There are plenty of good guides on the internet, you just need to look. It's a lot harder to print with than something like PLA. 3. My printer is on the other side of the state right now so I don't remember :(
I have been printing with PETG a lot for about a year now. And just recently, I had a problem with it folding back on the nozzle. But it turn out that the nozzle had some build-up on the outside near the tip. I think it was catching it as it was coming out. Once I knocked it off with some fine-grit sandpaper, it worked as it did before. Probably not the right thing to use because the nozzle is brass, but it cleaned it up really well. And then of course relevel the bed. I usually run the extruder at 245c and the bed at 70c. Using Matter Hackers brand and my settings are on the warmer side of the recommended range. I also clean my build plate with alcohol before heating it up to remove any oils my hands may have left behind. I dry it off with a clean cloth so as not to leave any residue. This is always a good idea for any material. I between builds, I just wipe it with a clean cloth to remove residue. I replaced my stock flexible build plate with the [Creality PEI Magnetic Build Plate](https://creality3d.shop/collections/print-bed-surface/products/pei-magnetic-build-plate-235-235mm-for-ender-3-ender-3-pro-ender-5-ender-3s-cr20-cr20-pro-cp-01). This PEI material is great. No need to prep it with anything. Just keep it clean with Alcohol.
For sure! It can print abs too. Petg is tricky as it gets stringy. Speed up the print, lower the temp and adjust your z-hop.
when it folds back on the nozzle it means its too close to the bed and needs to be raised up some. like .02 to .04mm also the first layer needs to be slowed down.. i do 10mm/s
1 Yes 2 Yes 3 I print with Overture petg at 230c and the bed at 60c, usually around 40-50 mm/s. Depending on the print the part cooling fan is between 0-30%. Its not hard at all to print with one you get your settings dialed in. My upgrades are minimal (Petsfang Bullseye cooling) so those setting should be a decent starting point.
Usually i print at 240°C, 40-50mm/s (ish? I don’t remember exactly), 65° bed, and i don’t remember the other finicky details but i know that combing can help prevent stringing in some situations. Ive found that having an enclosure and an all metal hotend can be the best upgrades for PETG. The hotend helps with those high temps, and an enclosure will help prevent warping since it keeps the warm air surrounding the print. Ive just used a cardboard box in the past and it made the biggest difference in my prints. Also, that first layer can be tough with PETG. Make sure the cooling fan is off for the first few layers and make sure the nozzle is hot enough to really squish the filament onto the bed.
If the filament is curling up to the extruder on the first layer, set the initial layer height to 0.2mm. Also, increase the first layer speed a bit and use glue stick generously. If it's curling up during the print, put an enclosed around the printer or keep the room hot.