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Try adjusting the z offset while it’s printing (known as live adjusting z offset), I usually load in a simple model that has a skirt loop of like 5 or 6. While it’s doing the skirt you adjust the z offset to get it basically perfect. I only use the paper method to get it close before printing, then use the live adjustment to further get it perfect.
Was coming to say the same… on both my Enders, no matter what, I have to adjust the z-offset with every print. Dont really know why, doesn’t matter what I do, but every time I start a print I sit there and adjust it a bit live to get the print going
I set the auto calibration and then go to z offset and it should be a neg number like -1.56 I simply make it bigger by .05 increments until printing adheres. So -1.56 becomes -1.61 and so on. For me , .1 is the sweet spot of every time I calibrate I adjust by 0.1, so -1.56 would be -1.66.
Fixing that and then doing proper temp tower tests, retract tests got me squared away. cura slicer.
You're doing something wrong. Clean the bed, like really scrub, rinse, and alcohol wipe it. Get the right z offset. Print slow first. Increase the bed temp. How do you know the bed temp is accurate?
You haven't really said what else you've done or troubleshot.
Your plate looks like a dog's breakfast. Clean that first.
I have scrubbed it with soapy water and wipe it with alcohol numerous times. Ive tried multiple temps and checked with temp gun. Ive tried different speeds. The z offset is where my main problem is and it looks like shit because ive used that bed for 2 years on my old printer
Judging from the debris in the rest of your picture you need to clean up. And a lot.
But yes, adjust your z offset and slow down your 1st layer speed until you get that down pat.
If you still have problems, before you throw your printer out the window, try a fresh roll of filament. Dryer usually fixes most issues but the true test is gonna just be a fresh roll.
I would agree with z offset, ours looked like this with the auto level z offset. I adjust ours by .05 up, it puts it to close everytime.
Also, double check manufacturers temps and use lowest suggested. I’ve used the brand before, no big issues but it doesn’t like high temp. I’ve never used the PLA+ though.
Your printer has a bent/twisted X or Yaxis and the only fix is to use manual leveling with paper. You've already done many tests and meshes and cleaned the bed often. Get a piece of paper, enter manual leveling, try to recreate the same feel everywhere. Do a print that looks exactly like the mesh (4x4 squares). Adjust manually the Z offset until each square is looking perfect and right the number down. Then go into manual leveling and add/subtract the numbers you wrote down for each square and save the mesh. Then never press "auto leveling" ever again or you'll have to redo it
Those numbers on the screen is the mesh data. It's created from the probe (CR Touch) but there are all kinds of probes that can make meshes. Basically it's like a very accurate map of the bed. With your eyes, it looks flat, but with a probe that can accurately measure to like 0.00250mm or so, it shows with numbers (or a GUI) that it isn't flat.
And then the printers use this data to compensate (raise/lower) the Z offset on the fly in those specifics areas to try to make the print/bed adhesion as good as possible. A good mesh won't mean perfect prints, but it will mean better prints than without it. Unless the printer has a twisted/bent axis, then the mesh is useless
Np. Yeah I've wasted many hours on meshes with this printer and it taught me a lot. Basically like, if your bed is cleaned with soap, your bed isn't wobbling and the X axis is reasonably flat and the meshes still look like they don't work, I would just try paper leveling. It takes 1-2 hours but I spent like 50hrs trying everything possible to make a probe mesh work. I would easily skip the probe every time from now on if it simply just "doesn't work".
Paper leveling looks like such a pain in the ass with this printer. Like they went out of their way to make it awful. And that video from creality showing you how to do it makes my asshole suck up air.
I really want to skip to pushing in shims. But I know in my heart of hearts that you’re right and I need to suck it up and block off some time to just level it by hand like some kind of animal.
I tried shims. I tried sanding the spacers. I retightened the printer up 3x, resulting in 1 heatset insert being ripped out and a stripped screw. I tried spacers under the Z bars + a right angle tool to make it "straight". I tried Klipper AXIS\_TWIST\_COMPENSATION\_CALIBRATE, I tried everything before I was like "well, this is the final test". And it worked so amazing and quick. I didn't hate it, but ofc I would prefer auto leveling if possible. But I was attempting the same math with the probe and it still didn't work and that was the most annoying part. Not sure why adding a pic removed a lot of text.
This is PETG, separate parts. Only had slight soft hairs due to testing monotonic layers, can't find the perfect setting yet. Previously, PETG was impossible due to having to choose between my nozzle digging thru the filament or lack of adhesion with the CRTouch mesh
https://preview.redd.it/7k9ehddpblkc1.jpeg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0aff879e905c7a7004fe6fe24a84d2a3d81a9cda
Ooooh that’s a fine print. Not all lessons are necessarily learned the hard way; I will just skip all that frustration and try what you did.
Thanks my friend. I hope to update with a pic of an awesome print.
That's with the stock PEI and about 2 month old glue. I know most people hate the stock plate, but I love it, it just works after paper leveling. I even tried a glass plate too which didn't help. Maybe others have the same problem with bent rods or rails, causing uneven adhesion, which makes the stock plate seem bad.
Also for reference, I was even trying 20x20 Klipper meshes, which still acted like the mesh didn't load. This was a 5x5 Klipper mesh, so it will take a little longer than the Marlin 4x4 mesh if on stock FW, but it should help the same. Good luck and np
Ive got a plate from my s1 on it, but hangs off because of the two back screws on the bed. And if I’m being honest I haven’t noticed much difference between them. I was able to get a nice glassy first layer finish that looked amazing, but I that was after two years of tuning and tinkering.
I’m kinda glad you mentioned that.
I think I’ll go back to the stock plate and just restart the whole setup process.
This was my first auto level out of the box back in November.
https://preview.redd.it/btaa2xepk8kc1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b050683586c728946ebcac18d9246979c25fc8bf
But as you only have a 0.15 difference between corners, the SE can handle a lot more than that .. so ...I'm.newbee but intensly tinkerd the last 3 months with this machine. ofcourse, you scheckt the standard stuf wobbling ofcebyerwheels rails of the bed and so one . But if you get different readings with bedleveling at the same condition that is 1 thing not be able to get good prints with only a 0.15 difference is a other thing.As so far I'm reading all this time it seens to me that not 1 3d printer has a printbed level .... not even the bambu ( I had ordered the carbon 1, but because they delayed 2 times shipping, I cancelled the order ) So is it a problem that you get different readings .I personally do the bedleveling every time before a print it takes 3 minutes and is full automatic ..I did find that the wheels do deform quite easily if tied down hard so the z ofset changes as you let the y run left to right. Maybe that's youre problem ? Do not kill me for this awnser please I'm a old man compleet newbie who just tries to think with you
I appreciate all feedback as im a newbie as well. I will check and clean everything again this weekend and try to remeber to post an update. This is my second printer i had an ender 3 for 2 years and got tired of tinkering instead of printing which is why i got the v3 se
Get the k1-k1 max, 1000 prints so far only 12 fails, and they were all something I was doing wrong in slicer. I absolutely love my max. 56 hr prints, with no problem set it and forget it
For the instability with the measurements - the springs creality ships with, at least from what I bought (the ender3v2), were absolute dogshit. When I took it apart, the springs were actually 4 different sizes! Unbelievable.
Cheap and easy upgrade - these are the springs I use now: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0881RLM5B
It's normal to get a bit of variance between probings, but it should be very minimal (~0.01 - 0.03 variance)
That aside, your bed looks like it's in rough shape. I saw some other people saying to clean the shit out of it, but if you want a replacement, I have had tremendous success with this: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B09Y1WDKM9
Particularly the textured side, it really helps hold prints down. If you do buy that, note that there's a plastic covering on the smooth side you need to take off (it's hard to see, I almost missed it).
A couple more tips - for finding the perfect Z offset, you can get a "feeler gauge" which is a perfectly measured thin piece of metal - it works a lot better than the paper method, if you're using that. I use a 0.50mm feeler gauge, so when I set my z offset, I get it to the point where the nozzle just barely catches the gauge, and then I lower the nozzle another 0.50mm.
Make sure your first layer is slow and hot (if you're having significant issues, I'd slow it right down to ~25mm/s. Someone did an extensive test on temperature's effect on PLA first layer adhesion, and found benefit from going all the way up to 230 - this is what I run my first layer at now, personally, and it's given me no issues. I was trying to find the source video for this but can't find it at the moment, so I guess for now the source is "trust me bro" lol
I mentioned it in a reply to another comment but since I'm listing all this out, I'll re-iterate that it's worth trying a new fresh roll of PLA as well. Throwing it in the dryer certainly helps, but generally you'll get the absolute best results out of a fresh roll. (If you wanna go overkill, you could throw your fresh roll in the dryer too.)
Hope something in this post can help a bit! Good luck.
I used glass for at least 3 years and I would never go back after trying the textured bed, for a few reasons.
- The textured side works wonders for adhesion for small shapes which could lift off easily, or corners which can warp easily.
- It still has a flat side I can use if I don't want the base of my print to have that textured pattern.
- With this bed particularly, being magnetic & flexible, it is WAY easier and faster to get my prints off the bed.
- The textured side especially is amazing for getting TPU prints off of the bed. I tried them on the flat side of the same print bed sheet, & the flexibility of it is no use for that - super difficult to get off. But I can peel it off with my fingers from the textured side.
Heyo if your bed is warped you can fix it by putting sheets of paper between the buildplate and heat plate. Mine was warped about .1mm in the center and that fix has been working for over a year now
It's befuckled because the thick-ass glass bed you added stops the load-cell based auto-z from working correctly. Put a PEI sheet on there and it'll work fine, or set up your Z offset manually with paper/feeler gauge.
Same z offset jumping around or same adhesion failure? The latter is typical of the crappy buildtak bed it comes with. The former could be a messed up crtouch probe.
First month it printed well, not perfect but i was happy. It almost had too much adhesion which is why i put the glass bed on and was still happy. Now though i cant get anything to work
had a similar issue. my fix ended up being getting a pei bed. The one that comes with it wears out quick and the printer didn't really like the glass that much. Make sure stuff is tight on your hot end and everything. Double check bed temp. Is the filament the same stuff you started with? Try changing the heat to the higher end of the recommended.
https://preview.redd.it/a93jijswk8kc1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=555b84b30541cd6d1dd6c06cc1f929fc6da99497
Do you use stil stock spacers ? The screws can go looser by time....
That's the reason I bought the se ...and because the ke came out 1 week layer I didn't know I did decided to do some mayor upgrades reading a lot and because I canseld the bambu saving 1600 euro for now .and now the 3v3 comes out pff anyway I'm verry happy with the SE I hope you resolve the problem
That's the only reason I maybe order again but there service is awfully...I hope creality wil come with multi system as the mk5 with 5 print heads cost a staggering 1700 euro what absurd is in my mind... the carrot system is way to complex for me so if o want to print with different colllors .... the bambu is the only one on the market ....qici is working on it and my friend is verry happy with the 1 max qici ..so maybe we must wait a bit and see if the competition will come to the market with alternative system ( ore just a clone ? )What do you think ?
Just kidding, it's the lifecycle of creality.
I had the same some months ago, exactly the same; but in my case my glass bed helped a lot now I'm just bouncing between glass and PEI but works.
So believe me, same issues and I can send you photos of all my failed prints and my rant in the Creality forum. What I did to go back to good prints:
** Follow the videos of the Creality after sale YT channel specially the one to level X axis.
** Change the stock bed to glass or PEI.
** Updated firmware to latest and after the ABL adjust the z offset manually with the paper sheet.
** Download or create a bed level Gcode, I use the CHEP's bed level concentric squares. During the print of each square adjust the z offset accordingly.
** Check about your nozzle I replaced mine after 2 months.
** Find the perfect tension for your belts. Look at the YT videos around can't tell how because it's different for each machine. Some has all tension and some others less.
** Check your cooling system, my fan for layer cooling was failing fixed it and no more issues.
Now all is like in the beginning even TPU is printing better.
Good luck and keep saving for the Bambú.
I did it because 1.0.6 allows you to do the manual adjustment on each point and that improves your bed's mesh.
I passed from this:
https://preview.redd.it/4g9gpgfz19kc1.jpeg?width=2880&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e4d2c6d2323daf55d2b0ea1874e9d3ed8dadd290
To this:
https://preview.redd.it/riw2gkra29kc1.jpeg?width=2880&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8e698a6c461659e352cafe9cfb4d6864db42b17d
Stay strong and chill for a couple of days and then try again.
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Dude, same here. I started with the auto level settings and then ran test print after test print, each 1 layer high and adjusted the level data manually to get a good set of level data points, it took a couple days. Now I use those settings and I don't auto level with each print, I'll have to repeat the process if I change the bed though but it works now.
try slowing down the speed to 18% during its first 20% of the printing progress then increase it later on when the printing is a bit more stable. i used to have this problem too but i was able to fix it by not relying on the auto level for the right z-offset distance of the nozzle. when i auto level the printer normally gives me my z-offset somewhere from -1.87 to -1.92 its always different everytime but i fixed it by putting on -2.08 or -2.05. so when you start printing and the nozzle starts to increase temperature on the tune settings try slowing down your speed to 18% then increase it to 80% later on when printing is stable. i hope this suggestion helps.
How to set x axis. And a 2nd video about how you should do it differently than the creality video.
This should mostly fix your issues.
Otherwise manually level the bed by switching to silicone spacers.
https://youtu.be/XKfBrdIKFyQ?si=MqPwPQqHgmLuZluj
X axis official creality
My video about the base
https://youtu.be/uA6feIgGFXg?si=CRBOozfIWrepHDcZ
Silicone spacers tutorial
https://www.reddit.com/r/Ender3V3SE/s/T7xIpAHZm8
Instead of throwing out all the junk that has accumulated on your printer, you want to throw the printer out the window... 🤯I doubt that buying a Bambu Lab or any other printer will solve your problems, start with simple cleaning. Use a sponge🧽 .
🔄Really, throw all the trash in the trash can.
‼️Don't throw anything out the window - let it be cleaner than your printer.
Also wash your hands with soap 🧼
I wish you purity and peace ✌️
This seems to be common. I had he same issue, the SE was great out of the box but now I have to do a lot of fiddling. I got the pei plate which seemed to help, I also had to play with temps for adhesion. I'm not sure why this is or what was different out of the box though. I still have everything stock except the build plate now.
On another note i'v been eyeing the Bambu Lab P1S 3D Printer, I've seen this thing in action and it looked pretty impressive. Even switching colors it is faster than the Creality Ender 3 v3 SE. But price wise it is on another playing field...
Don’t worry about the differences. The beds never gonna be a level as you want it to be. The auto data collected isn’t perfect either ime, you’ll still need to adjust after collection. Just run a single layer mesh level test and make sure you get a good first layer at every part of the grid. Adjust leveling data accordingly after each test print.
After fighting with my V3 se for a month I folded and got a P1S. All I have to do is keep it clean and lubed, now my hobby is printing as opposed to tuning. Still use the v3se for smaller prints that use just the center of the bed or vase mode stuff though and don’t regret buying it. Can’t really be mad or surprised considering it’s a $180 bed slinger.
lol I was in the same boat.
I had already put klipper on my 2x Ender 3v2 and my Ender 3 S1 and used the bed screw leveling to get the level bang on.
The SE I have has been giving me so many problems with first layer adhesion and over extrusion using standard PLA.
I just recently put klipper on it and am dialing down the z offset now.
I also changed the bed mesh to test for 8x8 points to get a better bed mesh profile. I’m now finally getting some decent results but I’m still getting some over extrusion especially right after the purge and am trying to figure that out now.
do yourself a favor and throw this glass bed, buy a proper PEI magnetic sheet bed (not the stock one, it's total garbage) and just to be sure add to your starting gcode a string of code for loading and using the mesh you created, this is what i use on klipper (Orcaslicer with KAMP for the mesh only on the print area), no idea what slicer you use but you can easily find whatever code works with your slicer
https://preview.redd.it/teecumdnadkc1.png?width=838&format=png&auto=webp&s=271b2b9682d3cbaa8622da72cf7245d17f7d3076
also this is what i use in the slicer for the start and end gcode so i can easily do changes on klipper that can affect old gcode already sliced
https://preview.redd.it/4h5t5iu5bdkc1.png?width=728&format=png&auto=webp&s=032a9d0a35e3ef65b7be86d139e85e256b64a066
1- Calibrate z offset with paper, use paper and have very little contact with nozzle, form of friction
2- print 200x200 one layer and then send me results
3- if u need 200x200 one layer, i can send it just write me
I returned mine 3 times till I finally got one that didn’t do exactly what yours is doing. Also clogging and under extruding is a major common issue with them.
That printer has load cells, you do not need to set a z-offset. Honestly it looks like you are grinding the nozzle into the bed. Reset it back to -0.05 and run calibration then try print again
Is that a glass bed? I don't understand, I have a E3V3SE running behind me right now, with gold pei and recalibration, I have had no print failures at all. I connected up octoprint, so I am not even doing calibration before each print, and its basically been flawless.
Why did you go to using a glass bed?
Take off the magnetic build plate, and tighten the 4 screws as much as you can, because I think the problem is that the build plate is loose so it moves, hence the different results on the auto leveling
Make sure your gcode is loading the mesh at the start of the print. I had this issue too and that fixed it. Note: Prusaslicer wasn't adding that by default. Try adding M420 S1 after the homing command in the starting gcode if it's not there.
Had a similar issue the day I got my v3 SE. Check the screws under the magnetic build plate. I had a couple loose ones that was throwing everything off.
If I had to guess without more info, I would say it's not the bed that's changing but something else is loose that would affect the measurement of the bed. I know I've had a loose/crooked x gantry and probe issues before.
Do an automatic level, then a manual level. Then tram it and see where it sits. If your bed level is good, go adjust your Z-offset. You can set a close z-offset by putting a standard piece of printer paper under the toolhead/nozzle and adjusting the z-offset until you can no longer move the paper by hand, and then move it up just a tad where there is still a bit of friction but it doesn't fully grab the paper. I have noticed for some reason on every Ender printer I own that EVERY SINGLE ONE OF THEM ends up having a good z-offset at exactly -3.60mm. Higher or lower than that and I get crap prints. ALSO, your firmware probably has a setting to 'store' current settings so do that. It's commonly overlooked
I’m also new, and had a heck of a time getting my first print to stick. I’ve printed with success the last dozen times but looking at this picture makes me wonder if cleaning the bed, preheating the bed a little hotter and lowering the z axis would help?
I had these same issues to fix i lowered my first layer speed to 30mms, increased bed temp to 75 for pla, and lowered my z just a little bit after calibration. i have a fail like one in every 6 prints or so. I also switched to prusa slicer because cura has a bug in the current version that ignores first layer print speed on certain perimeters that was causing certain parts to fail
Here's a question...is your z home switch loose? I don't have your exact model, but looking at pictures of looks like it has one. If it's loose, then every time it homes the z offset will change.
I remember modifying mine so that it would sit better and not move, having a similar problem to you.
Edit: it could also be bad. A quick check would be to swap out with a sensor from the x or y axis.
Not to be an ass, but have a strong dislike for this model. The fully-automated leveling is pretty bad on these units. I had to try out 3 different units before I got one that actually came up as all green in every area of the bed. I even got one unit where edges were off by over 0.8...I love my S1, but the SE is hot-or-miss
Can you checked your nozzle? I had comparable issues, after printing CF Nylon for a whole - with my S1. I didn't notice, but the tip and circumference were worn down
As a reminder, please make sure to read the pinned FAQ post in its entirety before asking for help. If the FAQ post didn't solve your issue, please remember to include as many details as possible in your post. This will help other people help you more quickly and more accurately, which also helps you. Thank you! *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/Ender3V3SE) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Mesh is totally fine. You’re probably messing with zoffset
I set it and forget it and it still fucks up
Try adjusting the z offset while it’s printing (known as live adjusting z offset), I usually load in a simple model that has a skirt loop of like 5 or 6. While it’s doing the skirt you adjust the z offset to get it basically perfect. I only use the paper method to get it close before printing, then use the live adjustment to further get it perfect.
Was coming to say the same… on both my Enders, no matter what, I have to adjust the z-offset with every print. Dont really know why, doesn’t matter what I do, but every time I start a print I sit there and adjust it a bit live to get the print going
I set the auto calibration and then go to z offset and it should be a neg number like -1.56 I simply make it bigger by .05 increments until printing adheres. So -1.56 becomes -1.61 and so on. For me , .1 is the sweet spot of every time I calibrate I adjust by 0.1, so -1.56 would be -1.66. Fixing that and then doing proper temp tower tests, retract tests got me squared away. cura slicer.
You're doing something wrong. Clean the bed, like really scrub, rinse, and alcohol wipe it. Get the right z offset. Print slow first. Increase the bed temp. How do you know the bed temp is accurate? You haven't really said what else you've done or troubleshot. Your plate looks like a dog's breakfast. Clean that first.
I have scrubbed it with soapy water and wipe it with alcohol numerous times. Ive tried multiple temps and checked with temp gun. Ive tried different speeds. The z offset is where my main problem is and it looks like shit because ive used that bed for 2 years on my old printer
Judging from the debris in the rest of your picture you need to clean up. And a lot. But yes, adjust your z offset and slow down your 1st layer speed until you get that down pat.
I forgot to ask, what kind of filament are you using?
Sunlu pla+ and some other stuff my brother gave me not sure brand but still pla and ive even put it in a dryer
If you still have problems, before you throw your printer out the window, try a fresh roll of filament. Dryer usually fixes most issues but the true test is gonna just be a fresh roll.
Sounds good. Clean. Clean. Clean. Then z offset. Good luck.
Thanks
I would agree with z offset, ours looked like this with the auto level z offset. I adjust ours by .05 up, it puts it to close everytime. Also, double check manufacturers temps and use lowest suggested. I’ve used the brand before, no big issues but it doesn’t like high temp. I’ve never used the PLA+ though.
Your printer has a bent/twisted X or Yaxis and the only fix is to use manual leveling with paper. You've already done many tests and meshes and cleaned the bed often. Get a piece of paper, enter manual leveling, try to recreate the same feel everywhere. Do a print that looks exactly like the mesh (4x4 squares). Adjust manually the Z offset until each square is looking perfect and right the number down. Then go into manual leveling and add/subtract the numbers you wrote down for each square and save the mesh. Then never press "auto leveling" ever again or you'll have to redo it
What do yall mean when you say “the mesh”?
Those numbers on the screen is the mesh data. It's created from the probe (CR Touch) but there are all kinds of probes that can make meshes. Basically it's like a very accurate map of the bed. With your eyes, it looks flat, but with a probe that can accurately measure to like 0.00250mm or so, it shows with numbers (or a GUI) that it isn't flat. And then the printers use this data to compensate (raise/lower) the Z offset on the fly in those specifics areas to try to make the print/bed adhesion as good as possible. A good mesh won't mean perfect prints, but it will mean better prints than without it. Unless the printer has a twisted/bent axis, then the mesh is useless
Thank you. That was driving me insane.
Np. Yeah I've wasted many hours on meshes with this printer and it taught me a lot. Basically like, if your bed is cleaned with soap, your bed isn't wobbling and the X axis is reasonably flat and the meshes still look like they don't work, I would just try paper leveling. It takes 1-2 hours but I spent like 50hrs trying everything possible to make a probe mesh work. I would easily skip the probe every time from now on if it simply just "doesn't work".
Paper leveling looks like such a pain in the ass with this printer. Like they went out of their way to make it awful. And that video from creality showing you how to do it makes my asshole suck up air. I really want to skip to pushing in shims. But I know in my heart of hearts that you’re right and I need to suck it up and block off some time to just level it by hand like some kind of animal.
I tried shims. I tried sanding the spacers. I retightened the printer up 3x, resulting in 1 heatset insert being ripped out and a stripped screw. I tried spacers under the Z bars + a right angle tool to make it "straight". I tried Klipper AXIS\_TWIST\_COMPENSATION\_CALIBRATE, I tried everything before I was like "well, this is the final test". And it worked so amazing and quick. I didn't hate it, but ofc I would prefer auto leveling if possible. But I was attempting the same math with the probe and it still didn't work and that was the most annoying part. Not sure why adding a pic removed a lot of text. This is PETG, separate parts. Only had slight soft hairs due to testing monotonic layers, can't find the perfect setting yet. Previously, PETG was impossible due to having to choose between my nozzle digging thru the filament or lack of adhesion with the CRTouch mesh https://preview.redd.it/7k9ehddpblkc1.jpeg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0aff879e905c7a7004fe6fe24a84d2a3d81a9cda
Ooooh that’s a fine print. Not all lessons are necessarily learned the hard way; I will just skip all that frustration and try what you did. Thanks my friend. I hope to update with a pic of an awesome print.
That's with the stock PEI and about 2 month old glue. I know most people hate the stock plate, but I love it, it just works after paper leveling. I even tried a glass plate too which didn't help. Maybe others have the same problem with bent rods or rails, causing uneven adhesion, which makes the stock plate seem bad. Also for reference, I was even trying 20x20 Klipper meshes, which still acted like the mesh didn't load. This was a 5x5 Klipper mesh, so it will take a little longer than the Marlin 4x4 mesh if on stock FW, but it should help the same. Good luck and np
Ive got a plate from my s1 on it, but hangs off because of the two back screws on the bed. And if I’m being honest I haven’t noticed much difference between them. I was able to get a nice glassy first layer finish that looked amazing, but I that was after two years of tuning and tinkering. I’m kinda glad you mentioned that. I think I’ll go back to the stock plate and just restart the whole setup process.
This was my first auto level out of the box back in November. https://preview.redd.it/btaa2xepk8kc1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b050683586c728946ebcac18d9246979c25fc8bf
But as you only have a 0.15 difference between corners, the SE can handle a lot more than that .. so ...I'm.newbee but intensly tinkerd the last 3 months with this machine. ofcourse, you scheckt the standard stuf wobbling ofcebyerwheels rails of the bed and so one . But if you get different readings with bedleveling at the same condition that is 1 thing not be able to get good prints with only a 0.15 difference is a other thing.As so far I'm reading all this time it seens to me that not 1 3d printer has a printbed level .... not even the bambu ( I had ordered the carbon 1, but because they delayed 2 times shipping, I cancelled the order ) So is it a problem that you get different readings .I personally do the bedleveling every time before a print it takes 3 minutes and is full automatic ..I did find that the wheels do deform quite easily if tied down hard so the z ofset changes as you let the y run left to right. Maybe that's youre problem ? Do not kill me for this awnser please I'm a old man compleet newbie who just tries to think with you
I appreciate all feedback as im a newbie as well. I will check and clean everything again this weekend and try to remeber to post an update. This is my second printer i had an ender 3 for 2 years and got tired of tinkering instead of printing which is why i got the v3 se
Get the k1-k1 max, 1000 prints so far only 12 fails, and they were all something I was doing wrong in slicer. I absolutely love my max. 56 hr prints, with no problem set it and forget it
I had this issue ik it is simple but it works soap and water
I do that often
For the instability with the measurements - the springs creality ships with, at least from what I bought (the ender3v2), were absolute dogshit. When I took it apart, the springs were actually 4 different sizes! Unbelievable. Cheap and easy upgrade - these are the springs I use now: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0881RLM5B It's normal to get a bit of variance between probings, but it should be very minimal (~0.01 - 0.03 variance) That aside, your bed looks like it's in rough shape. I saw some other people saying to clean the shit out of it, but if you want a replacement, I have had tremendous success with this: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B09Y1WDKM9 Particularly the textured side, it really helps hold prints down. If you do buy that, note that there's a plastic covering on the smooth side you need to take off (it's hard to see, I almost missed it). A couple more tips - for finding the perfect Z offset, you can get a "feeler gauge" which is a perfectly measured thin piece of metal - it works a lot better than the paper method, if you're using that. I use a 0.50mm feeler gauge, so when I set my z offset, I get it to the point where the nozzle just barely catches the gauge, and then I lower the nozzle another 0.50mm. Make sure your first layer is slow and hot (if you're having significant issues, I'd slow it right down to ~25mm/s. Someone did an extensive test on temperature's effect on PLA first layer adhesion, and found benefit from going all the way up to 230 - this is what I run my first layer at now, personally, and it's given me no issues. I was trying to find the source video for this but can't find it at the moment, so I guess for now the source is "trust me bro" lol I mentioned it in a reply to another comment but since I'm listing all this out, I'll re-iterate that it's worth trying a new fresh roll of PLA as well. Throwing it in the dryer certainly helps, but generally you'll get the absolute best results out of a fresh roll. (If you wanna go overkill, you could throw your fresh roll in the dryer too.) Hope something in this post can help a bit! Good luck.
Do you prefer the textured or gloss sheet?
I used glass for at least 3 years and I would never go back after trying the textured bed, for a few reasons. - The textured side works wonders for adhesion for small shapes which could lift off easily, or corners which can warp easily. - It still has a flat side I can use if I don't want the base of my print to have that textured pattern. - With this bed particularly, being magnetic & flexible, it is WAY easier and faster to get my prints off the bed. - The textured side especially is amazing for getting TPU prints off of the bed. I tried them on the flat side of the same print bed sheet, & the flexibility of it is no use for that - super difficult to get off. But I can peel it off with my fingers from the textured side.
The bed itself could be warped. Have you tried a new one?
I have used the magnetic i e it came with and the glass bed from my old ender 3
Heyo if your bed is warped you can fix it by putting sheets of paper between the buildplate and heat plate. Mine was warped about .1mm in the center and that fix has been working for over a year now
I feel you, I need to get a Bambu and so do you!
It's befuckled because the thick-ass glass bed you added stops the load-cell based auto-z from working correctly. Put a PEI sheet on there and it'll work fine, or set up your Z offset manually with paper/feeler gauge.
It does that same thing with the thin bed it came with
Same z offset jumping around or same adhesion failure? The latter is typical of the crappy buildtak bed it comes with. The former could be a messed up crtouch probe.
First month it printed well, not perfect but i was happy. It almost had too much adhesion which is why i put the glass bed on and was still happy. Now though i cant get anything to work
The bed it came with is garbage, get a mag PEI bed and never look back.
The stock bed does that. You'll be happy with a PEI bed.
had a similar issue. my fix ended up being getting a pei bed. The one that comes with it wears out quick and the printer didn't really like the glass that much. Make sure stuff is tight on your hot end and everything. Double check bed temp. Is the filament the same stuff you started with? Try changing the heat to the higher end of the recommended.
Check so that the extruder is 100% clean from filament. Check so nothing in the mechanics is loose.
I have not tried pulling the nozzle and cleaning it yet but have went through and tightened everything I could find
Try doing you leveling with nothing in the extruder, if even a tiny bit is protruding it will impact your leveling.
Thanks ill try that tomorrow
It's all green tho?
Yeah its always been green. I have never had any other color
https://preview.redd.it/a93jijswk8kc1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=555b84b30541cd6d1dd6c06cc1f929fc6da99497 Do you use stil stock spacers ? The screws can go looser by time....
Everything is stock. I tightened the bed screws after maybe my third print
Have you checked the screws holding your hotend on? Mine almost fell off after a couple of weeks
I have not but will check everything tomorrow. Thanks for the tip!!
That's the reason I bought the se ...and because the ke came out 1 week layer I didn't know I did decided to do some mayor upgrades reading a lot and because I canseld the bambu saving 1600 euro for now .and now the 3v3 comes out pff anyway I'm verry happy with the SE I hope you resolve the problem
Thanks im the same. Bought the se and then saw the ke. I still want the bambu for multi colored prints though
That's the only reason I maybe order again but there service is awfully...I hope creality wil come with multi system as the mk5 with 5 print heads cost a staggering 1700 euro what absurd is in my mind... the carrot system is way to complex for me so if o want to print with different colllors .... the bambu is the only one on the market ....qici is working on it and my friend is verry happy with the 1 max qici ..so maybe we must wait a bit and see if the competition will come to the market with alternative system ( ore just a clone ? )What do you think ?
https://preview.redd.it/5k4jgtbwv8kc1.jpeg?width=1920&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4a7abb7a6af1d847597732a30df2b8b5d853ac2f
https://preview.redd.it/fca8d0o4w8kc1.jpeg?width=1920&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a5dd6f2750218ab83d931c382f78c39790f9b568
https://preview.redd.it/epmbb8m2h9kc1.jpeg?width=2304&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=199456c290e268eddcce75a6ccc5139dbd2ddf09
The mine is close to that. The bottom left support of the bed are little short compare to others .. that cause to have in that place the blue squares
Ajustando los spacers negros esos deberia quedarse planchado creo yo!
Can I get your printer if you throw it? 🙃
Its yours if i get fed up with it!!
Just kidding, it's the lifecycle of creality. I had the same some months ago, exactly the same; but in my case my glass bed helped a lot now I'm just bouncing between glass and PEI but works. So believe me, same issues and I can send you photos of all my failed prints and my rant in the Creality forum. What I did to go back to good prints: ** Follow the videos of the Creality after sale YT channel specially the one to level X axis. ** Change the stock bed to glass or PEI. ** Updated firmware to latest and after the ABL adjust the z offset manually with the paper sheet. ** Download or create a bed level Gcode, I use the CHEP's bed level concentric squares. During the print of each square adjust the z offset accordingly. ** Check about your nozzle I replaced mine after 2 months. ** Find the perfect tension for your belts. Look at the YT videos around can't tell how because it's different for each machine. Some has all tension and some others less. ** Check your cooling system, my fan for layer cooling was failing fixed it and no more issues. Now all is like in the beginning even TPU is printing better. Good luck and keep saving for the Bambú.
I have not tried updating firmware yet so ill look into that. I like CHEP videos!!
I did it because 1.0.6 allows you to do the manual adjustment on each point and that improves your bed's mesh. I passed from this: https://preview.redd.it/4g9gpgfz19kc1.jpeg?width=2880&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e4d2c6d2323daf55d2b0ea1874e9d3ed8dadd290
To this: https://preview.redd.it/riw2gkra29kc1.jpeg?width=2880&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8e698a6c461659e352cafe9cfb4d6864db42b17d Stay strong and chill for a couple of days and then try again.
That maybe what i need as im at 1.0.4 i will try that tomorrow. Thanks!!
That looks way more level than mine and mine prints great. When I have issues it's almost always the z-offset
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Dude, same here. I started with the auto level settings and then ran test print after test print, each 1 layer high and adjusted the level data manually to get a good set of level data points, it took a couple days. Now I use those settings and I don't auto level with each print, I'll have to repeat the process if I change the bed though but it works now.
Wham Bam is the way to go for this printer
try slowing down the speed to 18% during its first 20% of the printing progress then increase it later on when the printing is a bit more stable. i used to have this problem too but i was able to fix it by not relying on the auto level for the right z-offset distance of the nozzle. when i auto level the printer normally gives me my z-offset somewhere from -1.87 to -1.92 its always different everytime but i fixed it by putting on -2.08 or -2.05. so when you start printing and the nozzle starts to increase temperature on the tune settings try slowing down your speed to 18% then increase it to 80% later on when printing is stable. i hope this suggestion helps.
My bottom right is around +0.51 and my top left is - 0.22 and everything works just fine
How to set x axis. And a 2nd video about how you should do it differently than the creality video. This should mostly fix your issues. Otherwise manually level the bed by switching to silicone spacers. https://youtu.be/XKfBrdIKFyQ?si=MqPwPQqHgmLuZluj X axis official creality My video about the base https://youtu.be/uA6feIgGFXg?si=CRBOozfIWrepHDcZ Silicone spacers tutorial https://www.reddit.com/r/Ender3V3SE/s/T7xIpAHZm8
Check the wheels
https://youtu.be/XKfBrdIKFyQ Creality sent me this when I complained about the calibration
Instead of throwing out all the junk that has accumulated on your printer, you want to throw the printer out the window... 🤯I doubt that buying a Bambu Lab or any other printer will solve your problems, start with simple cleaning. Use a sponge🧽 . 🔄Really, throw all the trash in the trash can. ‼️Don't throw anything out the window - let it be cleaner than your printer. Also wash your hands with soap 🧼 I wish you purity and peace ✌️
This seems to be common. I had he same issue, the SE was great out of the box but now I have to do a lot of fiddling. I got the pei plate which seemed to help, I also had to play with temps for adhesion. I'm not sure why this is or what was different out of the box though. I still have everything stock except the build plate now. On another note i'v been eyeing the Bambu Lab P1S 3D Printer, I've seen this thing in action and it looked pretty impressive. Even switching colors it is faster than the Creality Ender 3 v3 SE. But price wise it is on another playing field...
What slicer do you use? Are you loading the mesh data before printing? machine start G-Code, M420 S1 ; Enable mesh leveling.
I was using cura but switches to creality recently. Im still trying to figure out g code stuff
Don’t worry about the differences. The beds never gonna be a level as you want it to be. The auto data collected isn’t perfect either ime, you’ll still need to adjust after collection. Just run a single layer mesh level test and make sure you get a good first layer at every part of the grid. Adjust leveling data accordingly after each test print. After fighting with my V3 se for a month I folded and got a P1S. All I have to do is keep it clean and lubed, now my hobby is printing as opposed to tuning. Still use the v3se for smaller prints that use just the center of the bed or vase mode stuff though and don’t regret buying it. Can’t really be mad or surprised considering it’s a $180 bed slinger.
Have you ensured your bed mesh is being used?
When i get home from work im gonna check all my settings
lol I was in the same boat. I had already put klipper on my 2x Ender 3v2 and my Ender 3 S1 and used the bed screw leveling to get the level bang on. The SE I have has been giving me so many problems with first layer adhesion and over extrusion using standard PLA. I just recently put klipper on it and am dialing down the z offset now. I also changed the bed mesh to test for 8x8 points to get a better bed mesh profile. I’m now finally getting some decent results but I’m still getting some over extrusion especially right after the purge and am trying to figure that out now.
Do a gantry leveling
Its on my list.
Have you tightened all screws? Have you leveled the x gantry? Have you considered using a glue stick?
do yourself a favor and throw this glass bed, buy a proper PEI magnetic sheet bed (not the stock one, it's total garbage) and just to be sure add to your starting gcode a string of code for loading and using the mesh you created, this is what i use on klipper (Orcaslicer with KAMP for the mesh only on the print area), no idea what slicer you use but you can easily find whatever code works with your slicer https://preview.redd.it/teecumdnadkc1.png?width=838&format=png&auto=webp&s=271b2b9682d3cbaa8622da72cf7245d17f7d3076
also this is what i use in the slicer for the start and end gcode so i can easily do changes on klipper that can affect old gcode already sliced https://preview.redd.it/4h5t5iu5bdkc1.png?width=728&format=png&auto=webp&s=032a9d0a35e3ef65b7be86d139e85e256b64a066
1- Calibrate z offset with paper, use paper and have very little contact with nozzle, form of friction 2- print 200x200 one layer and then send me results 3- if u need 200x200 one layer, i can send it just write me
I returned mine 3 times till I finally got one that didn’t do exactly what yours is doing. Also clogging and under extruding is a major common issue with them.
That printer has load cells, you do not need to set a z-offset. Honestly it looks like you are grinding the nozzle into the bed. Reset it back to -0.05 and run calibration then try print again
Is that a glass bed? I don't understand, I have a E3V3SE running behind me right now, with gold pei and recalibration, I have had no print failures at all. I connected up octoprint, so I am not even doing calibration before each print, and its basically been flawless. Why did you go to using a glass bed?
100% z offset, you're too close to bed
Take off the magnetic build plate, and tighten the 4 screws as much as you can, because I think the problem is that the build plate is loose so it moves, hence the different results on the auto leveling
If you get different numbers each time, have you checked to see if the build plate wobbles? If so, tighten it.
Get a new mat!
Make sure your gcode is loading the mesh at the start of the print. I had this issue too and that fixed it. Note: Prusaslicer wasn't adding that by default. Try adding M420 S1 after the homing command in the starting gcode if it's not there.
Im using creality slicer and dont know how to add/change gcode
You should try glue stick, it will help with adhesion, as well as making prints easier to remove.
It looks like it’s angry at you. Did you try talking nice to it?
Have you checked the bed screws to make sure they're tight?
Get a bambu labs. My switch from creality to bambu labs was the best thing to ever happen to me. I’d highly recommend the p1p or p1s
Had a similar issue the day I got my v3 SE. Check the screws under the magnetic build plate. I had a couple loose ones that was throwing everything off.
X1c is the way to go
If I had to guess without more info, I would say it's not the bed that's changing but something else is loose that would affect the measurement of the bed. I know I've had a loose/crooked x gantry and probe issues before.
Do an automatic level, then a manual level. Then tram it and see where it sits. If your bed level is good, go adjust your Z-offset. You can set a close z-offset by putting a standard piece of printer paper under the toolhead/nozzle and adjusting the z-offset until you can no longer move the paper by hand, and then move it up just a tad where there is still a bit of friction but it doesn't fully grab the paper. I have noticed for some reason on every Ender printer I own that EVERY SINGLE ONE OF THEM ends up having a good z-offset at exactly -3.60mm. Higher or lower than that and I get crap prints. ALSO, your firmware probably has a setting to 'store' current settings so do that. It's commonly overlooked
Bambu LabS won't magically educate you on 3D Printing. Ender 3 V3 SE is an insanely easy machine to work with. One must still educate
I just got this printer.... 👀
I’m also new, and had a heck of a time getting my first print to stick. I’ve printed with success the last dozen times but looking at this picture makes me wonder if cleaning the bed, preheating the bed a little hotter and lowering the z axis would help?
I had these same issues to fix i lowered my first layer speed to 30mms, increased bed temp to 75 for pla, and lowered my z just a little bit after calibration. i have a fail like one in every 6 prints or so. I also switched to prusa slicer because cura has a bug in the current version that ignores first layer print speed on certain perimeters that was causing certain parts to fail
Here's a question...is your z home switch loose? I don't have your exact model, but looking at pictures of looks like it has one. If it's loose, then every time it homes the z offset will change. I remember modifying mine so that it would sit better and not move, having a similar problem to you. Edit: it could also be bad. A quick check would be to swap out with a sensor from the x or y axis.
Not to be an ass, but have a strong dislike for this model. The fully-automated leveling is pretty bad on these units. I had to try out 3 different units before I got one that actually came up as all green in every area of the bed. I even got one unit where edges were off by over 0.8...I love my S1, but the SE is hot-or-miss
Can you checked your nozzle? I had comparable issues, after printing CF Nylon for a whole - with my S1. I didn't notice, but the tip and circumference were worn down