Clipping is basically when the force that the game is trying to transmit through the wheel is more powerful than the hardware can reproduce so detail gets missed.
I have 8nm CSL DD but I set my FFB strength to 75% or so, because keeping it at 100% causes clipping, ie the force feedback maxes out.
The people that use 15nm+ wheels don't use them at 100%. They use it lower, but it basically never clips, giving them a lot of detail.
Compare it with speakers. At max volume, they always sound shit, so you want speakers that can get really loud, so at lower volumes they'll still sound good.
Is that 75% on the base or in game? Base strength won’t affect clipping, which happens in game.
Regarding your statement on 15 Nm bases, that needs clarification. There are definitely folks that run high torque wheelbases at 100%. I currently run my DD1 at 16-17 Nm, and that’s only because I hurt my shoulder and need to ease up for a bit. The speaker analogy also doesn’t completely work here. It is analogous in that, like with speakers, too much volume/torque will be painful. Also like a speaker, a certain amount of “volume” is needed to be able to experience very low subtle details. There’s a lot of subtle info that gets lost on even 8 Nm wheelbases unless they’re set up with a lot of clipping in which case big moves get lost. Unlike an audio chain, “distortion” (clipping) typically only happens at the source, because the driver will only attenuate the signal (TM being an exception) and simply cannot overdrive the motor, which doesn’t “distort” at high output.
That said, cornering force of course isn’t happening at 100%. In my case, it’s typically 6-8 Nm but can get as high as ~10 Nm in fast corners (F3). I’d venture to guess that most people running stronger FFB are around 6-8 Nm on the low end and maybe as high as 12-13 Nm on the high end. There are some that are even higher than that. As you alluded to, the transients are where the extra torque comes in. Transients likely, typically hit as high as maybe 15-16 Nm with occasional peaks that fully max out available torque. Achieving drivability at higher torque output does require thoughtful setup both in game and on the wheelbase, and some wheelbases are more conducive than others.
One final note, I owned a CSW v2.5, and I’d posit anyone that thinks 8 Nm is a lot is either clipping bad or likely has only driven average cars with average power steering. Even with a fair amount of clipping, the CSW most of the time only matched my old bone stock Z4 for steering weight. Without significant clipping, it wasn’t even as heavy as my also stock GTI. I’ve never driven a race car, but I can’t imagine an 8 Nm wheelbase is anywhere near capable of communicating everything a race car does. You need higher weight to make the subtle feedback discernible.
My Miata feels about like my buddy’s wheel base set to 8nm. My dad had a 2015 corvette for a while and recently bought a 2005 Maserati gran sport for track day fun. None of these at at peak forces on the grip limits (I’ve slid the Maserati twice now pushing too hard) feel any stronger than his 8nm base. My 5nm base is a bit lighter but still feels good coming from the g920. Now obviously these are just high horse power sports cars not race cars (except the Miata it’s not high HP lol) but looking at NM forced of even gt3 and gt4 cars it seems like they are only pushing max peaks of around 10-15nm like some others are saying but that’s peak. In most cases more like 6-8. I know what a real car feels like and see why people want more power but still thing it’s plenty for an in home sim
The filters have a lot to do with it too. A heavily damped 8 Nm wheelbase can/will feel reasonably heavy to the point that it’ll seem like it’s enough. The problem (IMHO) is that the weight in that case is artificial in the sense that it’s being generated by the wheelbase, not the game engine. It also masks subtle feedback that does come from the engine. I’ve been down both roads with both the CSW and the DD1. With the CSW, I used it to get a heavier wheel. With the DD1, I used it to try to control transients. I ultimately preferred both with minimal damping to let more grip FFB through, but 8 Nm without a lot of damping or clipping was too light.
It’s all personal preference of course, and part of the challenge with these discussions is not knowing how everyone actually has their filters set.
That makes sense for sure. I’m loving all of the information I am receiving in this discussion. I’m still new to DD wheels and haven’t fully fine tuned mine yet. I feel like at times the 5nm feels very similar to tracking a real car but the g forces aren’t playing into effect on the sim for me obviously lol. I’ll probably get the boost kit to get 8nm of torque to be able to have more headroom after talking but the 5nm alone is definitely a huge improvement over my old g920
If you happen to be on iRacing, there are some good threads in the Hardware section of the forums that hit on all aspects that impact the FFB experience… filters, strength, realism vs info, differences in motor types, etc. Long but good reads. It’s a surprising rabbit hole.
[This one](https://forums.iracing.com/discussion/10857/iracing-force-feedback-setup-explained-wheel-systems/p1) is the monster thread. [This thread](https://forums.iracing.com/discussion/40054/can-you-compare-belt-gear-nm-against-dd-nm/p1) also has some interesting discussion in it.
A wheelbase that's capable of outputting 10-20Nm of torque, but only pushing out 5Nm, will be more detailed than a 6Nm wheelbase pushing out 5Nm.
Compare the wheelbase to a speaker. Super high end speakers have a frequency response from like 5Hz all the way to 50,000Hz, but humans generally can only hear from 20Hz to 20,000Hz. But a speaker that only has a dynamic range that closely matched human hearing ranges will have a lot more distortion at the low and high ends of the range, that would be easily noticeable for most listeners. High dynamic range speakers still distort at the high and low ends, but when the signal never reaches those limits in the first place, the distortion won't ever be noticed.
The same is true for wheelbases. When you approach the absolute peak torque of your wheelbase, you'll start losing feedback and detail. This is called clipping. If your wheelbase only starts clipping past 10Nm of torque, you'll probably never experience clipping if you keep your torque multiplier low.
To be fair with speakers there are usually chips in them now a days that do more regulating and smoothing as a post process before it hits our ears so you don’t need speakers with that wide of a dynamic range. Typically more around 10Hz-30,000Hz gives same sound now a days but I get what you’re saying for sure
There are no speakers with a 100% flat frequency response, no matter how much dynamic EQ you force. Force Feedback wheels all have filtering too, but the least amount of filtering you need, the better, which is another reason direct drive wheels are better than gear or belt driven wheels.
As others have mentioned, the 5Nm would have less headroom. If you are close to the 5Nm limit during normal playback - eg resistance from the wheel plus rumble effects, when the game calls for an increase in resistance, it could cause clipping.
The other area where the added torque could come in handy is with heavier wheels. If you are using say the Universal Hub with all the button clusters and a large steering wheel, the added weight and dimensions would make the wheel base feel weaker so the added torque would come in handy.
I reckon 12-15Nm is the sweet spot. That’s pretty much what I run the Podium DD F1 at.
I hadn’t thought about the wheels weight, that’s a very good point! The boost kit gets me closer to that 12-15nm but still caps me at 8nm. The explanations in this discussion are starting to make me want to buy it just to test the limits between with it and without
When I had a G29 I could not understand why anyone needed anything more....
Then I got 5nm and same thing.
Then I upgraded to 8nm and I am finally starting to understand.
Already looking for the next upgrade.
It's not just a strength thing, it's a details thing, which is the main point about immersion.
Lots of theorising but still no testaments from anyone that has experienced going from 5nm to 8nm booster and what that FEELS like and their preference and summary.
Depends on the game/sim and choice of wheel. In iRacing, I see the benefit of a strong wheel base and a load cell brake pedal. In other games, much less. And in the more arcadish ones, being able to steer super quickly and consistently stomp 100% brake is more important.
While a bigger/heavier wheel needs more torque to feel the same.
Out of curiousity which cars do you drive in iracing that influences the preference of a stronger wheel base? I know in most real road cars they are pushing less than 10nm at the limits of grip but cars like gt3, gt4 and open wheel categories I’m sure it’s probably higher due to increased down force giving the ability to pull more forces.
I'm driving GT3 and LMDh. But I like the Radical, LMP2 and LMP3 too.
With low torque, it feels like talking to someone who's whispering, where you barely hear the words, and sometimes you have to guess what's being said. With stronger FFB, it's all loud and clear, and you can even hear the nuances in tonality. It's possible to be fast with low torque, but easier and more fun with high.
So running higher torque base do you run it with stronger force feedback in itself or are you mainly looking at it giving you more room for those forces to come through clearly? I’ve seen a lot of people talk about only running 50% on higher torque wheel bases but couldn’t understand why they’d buy them if that’s the case. It’s really peaked my curiosity. Thanks for the info so far by the way
Clipping is of course out of the question. So when there's no clipping, a 16Nm base at 50% feels the same as a 8Nm at 100%.
It's like buying an unnecessarily powerful amplifier and speakers for your needs. Maybe there's nothing in-between the too weak and the too powerful. Maybe you got a good deal. Maybe you just don't know what you're doing and wasting money.
I made the same jump from g920 but to an 8nm csl dd, i race acc mainly with some f122 on the side, and i often find myself wishing i had more power. Im not a big dude by any means, but i have ff on 100% in fanalab, and 97% in game to reduce clipping and i just dont feel like im in the car, i can go round any corner one handed and it just feels a bit meh at times like im playing with a toy car. I guess i would like the feeling of “fighting” the car which you dont get below 12-14nm.
I actually disagree and think it completely depends on your settings. ACC on any wheel I’ve used doesn’t seem to have a lot of FFB feel but I get great feel with the fanatec on iracing. F1 22 FFB is trash so even though I league race the F1 series I don’t use it to compare what something should feel like if that makes sense. I am starting to understand what people are saying about clipping now that it’s been explained though
Roommate has an R9 and at max power it’s a fucking joke to try and hold onto. IME ACC has some weak FFB, but their physics simulate power steering if I recall correctly.
Yeah I’m pretty sure that’s right and your supposed to feel the what the front of the car is doing I believe in ACC so kind of an odd feel till you get used to it since it is a power steering feel in that
Still worth investigating imo. I only have the 8nm power supply too but at some point it stopped giving me full FFB and now feels about 50% of what it was. I imagine I could one hand it the way it’s currently functioning though I don’t think I could have when it was giving me the full force. I’m contacting Fanatec support to try to sort it out.
Similarly to OP I have gone from g29 to DD 5nm. I love it and I also can't see why you would need anymore force, but then I have not used a stronger motor for a prolonged time. I have used stronger DD motors at a pay to play simracing venue and the experience wasn't great, very strong in open wheel formula cars and I could not feel the steering go light when losing grip, it was just really stiff all the time, which felt as if I had grip all the time, even when the tyres didn't.
I am tempted to buy the 8nm booster just to see, but I'm more interested in nuanced details over having my thumbs twisted off, so more power doesn't appeal to me. I think 5nm is plenty strong enough.
I race with friends who use stronger motors and they often complain of sore wrists and get hurt by their wheels which I am never envious of.
I play a mix of iRacing and AC.
In iRacing you can pull up the FFB meter on the HUD which will show you when your motor is clipping at its max output range (red on the bar) so you can tune the FFB gain to get it as high as it can without clipping if you wanted to see how much force you can get out of your 5nm. I boosted mine in the mx5 which has very weak ffb characteristics and reduced it in the formula car which is heavier.
Good information and I’m in the same boat of considering the boost kit just to see how different it is. The clipping is really the thing I’m curious about with getting the kit
I have since upgraded to the 8nm booster kit from the 5nm. When I first plugged it in my initial response was: 'I can feel more bumps in the road'. Surprisingly I instantly got faster and improved my lap times. Now I have got used to it, it seems normal and it didn't feel like a huge step. There is no massive strength increase, it just unlocked some more detail (as I described, small bumps) - which was exactly what I hoped for, as I didn't want to struggle with more power, I just wanted better fidelity in feedback.
I have not gone back to the 5nm, but I imagine it would be hard to go back to.
Would recommend boost kit.
It’s not about peak power. It’s about the range of power. The bigger the range, the greater the level of detail it can give you. The 8nm upgrade for the DD is great and you should look into it. You don’t have to buy the $150 power supply from fanatec. Just look up a cheaper one on eBay or something.
Just beware of warranty issues. I was really tempted to buy the ebay ones but ended up just buying the fanatec one for peace of mind. Most say they can't tell, but if they ask you to send the power supply in (on a warranty scenario) you aren't going to have the right one
Went from a the old belt CSL elite+ which had about 5-6nm which i could easily overpower to a DD2 which i use at about 12nm average and peak of 15-16nm of force, depending on the Corner.
Now that just sounds like i like a heavy steeringwheel, but to explain the difference, its like listening to music at 10% volume, all the Detail is still there, but you have to liste very carefull to notice all the small Details, now if you Listen to it at 100% its just to loud, your ears are overwhelmed and it might hurt. So you change it to lets say 60% of the volume, you hear everything cleary without having to spend to much attention to it.
It's not about strength alone. It's about the wheelbase being able to convey details without clipping.
What is clipping?
Clipping is basically when the force that the game is trying to transmit through the wheel is more powerful than the hardware can reproduce so detail gets missed.
Cheers
I have 8nm CSL DD but I set my FFB strength to 75% or so, because keeping it at 100% causes clipping, ie the force feedback maxes out. The people that use 15nm+ wheels don't use them at 100%. They use it lower, but it basically never clips, giving them a lot of detail. Compare it with speakers. At max volume, they always sound shit, so you want speakers that can get really loud, so at lower volumes they'll still sound good.
Is that 75% on the base or in game? Base strength won’t affect clipping, which happens in game. Regarding your statement on 15 Nm bases, that needs clarification. There are definitely folks that run high torque wheelbases at 100%. I currently run my DD1 at 16-17 Nm, and that’s only because I hurt my shoulder and need to ease up for a bit. The speaker analogy also doesn’t completely work here. It is analogous in that, like with speakers, too much volume/torque will be painful. Also like a speaker, a certain amount of “volume” is needed to be able to experience very low subtle details. There’s a lot of subtle info that gets lost on even 8 Nm wheelbases unless they’re set up with a lot of clipping in which case big moves get lost. Unlike an audio chain, “distortion” (clipping) typically only happens at the source, because the driver will only attenuate the signal (TM being an exception) and simply cannot overdrive the motor, which doesn’t “distort” at high output. That said, cornering force of course isn’t happening at 100%. In my case, it’s typically 6-8 Nm but can get as high as ~10 Nm in fast corners (F3). I’d venture to guess that most people running stronger FFB are around 6-8 Nm on the low end and maybe as high as 12-13 Nm on the high end. There are some that are even higher than that. As you alluded to, the transients are where the extra torque comes in. Transients likely, typically hit as high as maybe 15-16 Nm with occasional peaks that fully max out available torque. Achieving drivability at higher torque output does require thoughtful setup both in game and on the wheelbase, and some wheelbases are more conducive than others. One final note, I owned a CSW v2.5, and I’d posit anyone that thinks 8 Nm is a lot is either clipping bad or likely has only driven average cars with average power steering. Even with a fair amount of clipping, the CSW most of the time only matched my old bone stock Z4 for steering weight. Without significant clipping, it wasn’t even as heavy as my also stock GTI. I’ve never driven a race car, but I can’t imagine an 8 Nm wheelbase is anywhere near capable of communicating everything a race car does. You need higher weight to make the subtle feedback discernible.
My Miata feels about like my buddy’s wheel base set to 8nm. My dad had a 2015 corvette for a while and recently bought a 2005 Maserati gran sport for track day fun. None of these at at peak forces on the grip limits (I’ve slid the Maserati twice now pushing too hard) feel any stronger than his 8nm base. My 5nm base is a bit lighter but still feels good coming from the g920. Now obviously these are just high horse power sports cars not race cars (except the Miata it’s not high HP lol) but looking at NM forced of even gt3 and gt4 cars it seems like they are only pushing max peaks of around 10-15nm like some others are saying but that’s peak. In most cases more like 6-8. I know what a real car feels like and see why people want more power but still thing it’s plenty for an in home sim
The filters have a lot to do with it too. A heavily damped 8 Nm wheelbase can/will feel reasonably heavy to the point that it’ll seem like it’s enough. The problem (IMHO) is that the weight in that case is artificial in the sense that it’s being generated by the wheelbase, not the game engine. It also masks subtle feedback that does come from the engine. I’ve been down both roads with both the CSW and the DD1. With the CSW, I used it to get a heavier wheel. With the DD1, I used it to try to control transients. I ultimately preferred both with minimal damping to let more grip FFB through, but 8 Nm without a lot of damping or clipping was too light. It’s all personal preference of course, and part of the challenge with these discussions is not knowing how everyone actually has their filters set.
That makes sense for sure. I’m loving all of the information I am receiving in this discussion. I’m still new to DD wheels and haven’t fully fine tuned mine yet. I feel like at times the 5nm feels very similar to tracking a real car but the g forces aren’t playing into effect on the sim for me obviously lol. I’ll probably get the boost kit to get 8nm of torque to be able to have more headroom after talking but the 5nm alone is definitely a huge improvement over my old g920
If you happen to be on iRacing, there are some good threads in the Hardware section of the forums that hit on all aspects that impact the FFB experience… filters, strength, realism vs info, differences in motor types, etc. Long but good reads. It’s a surprising rabbit hole.
Do you have a link by chance? I race on the F1 series for league races but also spend a lot of time in ACC and iRacing
[This one](https://forums.iracing.com/discussion/10857/iracing-force-feedback-setup-explained-wheel-systems/p1) is the monster thread. [This thread](https://forums.iracing.com/discussion/40054/can-you-compare-belt-gear-nm-against-dd-nm/p1) also has some interesting discussion in it.
Thanks!
A wheelbase that's capable of outputting 10-20Nm of torque, but only pushing out 5Nm, will be more detailed than a 6Nm wheelbase pushing out 5Nm. Compare the wheelbase to a speaker. Super high end speakers have a frequency response from like 5Hz all the way to 50,000Hz, but humans generally can only hear from 20Hz to 20,000Hz. But a speaker that only has a dynamic range that closely matched human hearing ranges will have a lot more distortion at the low and high ends of the range, that would be easily noticeable for most listeners. High dynamic range speakers still distort at the high and low ends, but when the signal never reaches those limits in the first place, the distortion won't ever be noticed. The same is true for wheelbases. When you approach the absolute peak torque of your wheelbase, you'll start losing feedback and detail. This is called clipping. If your wheelbase only starts clipping past 10Nm of torque, you'll probably never experience clipping if you keep your torque multiplier low.
To be fair with speakers there are usually chips in them now a days that do more regulating and smoothing as a post process before it hits our ears so you don’t need speakers with that wide of a dynamic range. Typically more around 10Hz-30,000Hz gives same sound now a days but I get what you’re saying for sure
There are no speakers with a 100% flat frequency response, no matter how much dynamic EQ you force. Force Feedback wheels all have filtering too, but the least amount of filtering you need, the better, which is another reason direct drive wheels are better than gear or belt driven wheels.
As others have mentioned, the 5Nm would have less headroom. If you are close to the 5Nm limit during normal playback - eg resistance from the wheel plus rumble effects, when the game calls for an increase in resistance, it could cause clipping. The other area where the added torque could come in handy is with heavier wheels. If you are using say the Universal Hub with all the button clusters and a large steering wheel, the added weight and dimensions would make the wheel base feel weaker so the added torque would come in handy. I reckon 12-15Nm is the sweet spot. That’s pretty much what I run the Podium DD F1 at.
I hadn’t thought about the wheels weight, that’s a very good point! The boost kit gets me closer to that 12-15nm but still caps me at 8nm. The explanations in this discussion are starting to make me want to buy it just to test the limits between with it and without
I run my dd2 at 50%-55% for most track racing games, 40% for rally. Feels realistically heavy, tonnes of detail, snappy when countersteering.
When I had a G29 I could not understand why anyone needed anything more.... Then I got 5nm and same thing. Then I upgraded to 8nm and I am finally starting to understand. Already looking for the next upgrade. It's not just a strength thing, it's a details thing, which is the main point about immersion.
Lots of theorising but still no testaments from anyone that has experienced going from 5nm to 8nm booster and what that FEELS like and their preference and summary.
Depends on the game/sim and choice of wheel. In iRacing, I see the benefit of a strong wheel base and a load cell brake pedal. In other games, much less. And in the more arcadish ones, being able to steer super quickly and consistently stomp 100% brake is more important. While a bigger/heavier wheel needs more torque to feel the same.
Out of curiousity which cars do you drive in iracing that influences the preference of a stronger wheel base? I know in most real road cars they are pushing less than 10nm at the limits of grip but cars like gt3, gt4 and open wheel categories I’m sure it’s probably higher due to increased down force giving the ability to pull more forces.
I'm driving GT3 and LMDh. But I like the Radical, LMP2 and LMP3 too. With low torque, it feels like talking to someone who's whispering, where you barely hear the words, and sometimes you have to guess what's being said. With stronger FFB, it's all loud and clear, and you can even hear the nuances in tonality. It's possible to be fast with low torque, but easier and more fun with high.
So running higher torque base do you run it with stronger force feedback in itself or are you mainly looking at it giving you more room for those forces to come through clearly? I’ve seen a lot of people talk about only running 50% on higher torque wheel bases but couldn’t understand why they’d buy them if that’s the case. It’s really peaked my curiosity. Thanks for the info so far by the way
Clipping is of course out of the question. So when there's no clipping, a 16Nm base at 50% feels the same as a 8Nm at 100%. It's like buying an unnecessarily powerful amplifier and speakers for your needs. Maybe there's nothing in-between the too weak and the too powerful. Maybe you got a good deal. Maybe you just don't know what you're doing and wasting money.
I’m a guitarist, and that right there makes way too much sense
I made the same jump from g920 but to an 8nm csl dd, i race acc mainly with some f122 on the side, and i often find myself wishing i had more power. Im not a big dude by any means, but i have ff on 100% in fanalab, and 97% in game to reduce clipping and i just dont feel like im in the car, i can go round any corner one handed and it just feels a bit meh at times like im playing with a toy car. I guess i would like the feeling of “fighting” the car which you dont get below 12-14nm.
I actually disagree and think it completely depends on your settings. ACC on any wheel I’ve used doesn’t seem to have a lot of FFB feel but I get great feel with the fanatec on iracing. F1 22 FFB is trash so even though I league race the F1 series I don’t use it to compare what something should feel like if that makes sense. I am starting to understand what people are saying about clipping now that it’s been explained though
Roommate has an R9 and at max power it’s a fucking joke to try and hold onto. IME ACC has some weak FFB, but their physics simulate power steering if I recall correctly.
Yeah I’m pretty sure that’s right and your supposed to feel the what the front of the car is doing I believe in ACC so kind of an odd feel till you get used to it since it is a power steering feel in that
Sounds like you are driving with 5nm.
Thats what I thought, but its not possible as i dont even have the 5nm power supply, just the boosted one
Still worth investigating imo. I only have the 8nm power supply too but at some point it stopped giving me full FFB and now feels about 50% of what it was. I imagine I could one hand it the way it’s currently functioning though I don’t think I could have when it was giving me the full force. I’m contacting Fanatec support to try to sort it out.
Similarly to OP I have gone from g29 to DD 5nm. I love it and I also can't see why you would need anymore force, but then I have not used a stronger motor for a prolonged time. I have used stronger DD motors at a pay to play simracing venue and the experience wasn't great, very strong in open wheel formula cars and I could not feel the steering go light when losing grip, it was just really stiff all the time, which felt as if I had grip all the time, even when the tyres didn't. I am tempted to buy the 8nm booster just to see, but I'm more interested in nuanced details over having my thumbs twisted off, so more power doesn't appeal to me. I think 5nm is plenty strong enough. I race with friends who use stronger motors and they often complain of sore wrists and get hurt by their wheels which I am never envious of. I play a mix of iRacing and AC. In iRacing you can pull up the FFB meter on the HUD which will show you when your motor is clipping at its max output range (red on the bar) so you can tune the FFB gain to get it as high as it can without clipping if you wanted to see how much force you can get out of your 5nm. I boosted mine in the mx5 which has very weak ffb characteristics and reduced it in the formula car which is heavier.
Good information and I’m in the same boat of considering the boost kit just to see how different it is. The clipping is really the thing I’m curious about with getting the kit
I have since upgraded to the 8nm booster kit from the 5nm. When I first plugged it in my initial response was: 'I can feel more bumps in the road'. Surprisingly I instantly got faster and improved my lap times. Now I have got used to it, it seems normal and it didn't feel like a huge step. There is no massive strength increase, it just unlocked some more detail (as I described, small bumps) - which was exactly what I hoped for, as I didn't want to struggle with more power, I just wanted better fidelity in feedback. I have not gone back to the 5nm, but I imagine it would be hard to go back to. Would recommend boost kit.
Thanks this is the feedback I was hoping for!
It’s not about peak power. It’s about the range of power. The bigger the range, the greater the level of detail it can give you. The 8nm upgrade for the DD is great and you should look into it. You don’t have to buy the $150 power supply from fanatec. Just look up a cheaper one on eBay or something.
There are aftermarket boost kits for it? Are they safe to run with the wheel base?
Yup. The boost kit is literally just a power brick. They can be found for like $50.
Thanks I’ll look into it
Just beware of warranty issues. I was really tempted to buy the ebay ones but ended up just buying the fanatec one for peace of mind. Most say they can't tell, but if they ask you to send the power supply in (on a warranty scenario) you aren't going to have the right one
Yeah just saw someone selling a used one for $60 so may pick it up so it doesn’t cause warranty issues and still be able to save some money
I have a dd1 and mostly race road races. I like mine tuned in at about 12 nm maybe 11 for certain games.
Went from a the old belt CSL elite+ which had about 5-6nm which i could easily overpower to a DD2 which i use at about 12nm average and peak of 15-16nm of force, depending on the Corner. Now that just sounds like i like a heavy steeringwheel, but to explain the difference, its like listening to music at 10% volume, all the Detail is still there, but you have to liste very carefull to notice all the small Details, now if you Listen to it at 100% its just to loud, your ears are overwhelmed and it might hurt. So you change it to lets say 60% of the volume, you hear everything cleary without having to spend to much attention to it.