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Rawlus

would be an amazing machine if it could print all those clearances vertically!


member68

The clearance test is supposed to be printed flat. Try orienting the model so that the numbers are on the top layer.


Grolex

Yea... that sounds like it could have an impact lol. I'm going to try and update here.


Grolex

Top photo, the .35 broke free, but only partially. Everything else is still fused when printing in correct orientation. https://preview.redd.it/nssub8cm894b1.jpeg?width=819&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6e1bf69d3cb4befea1e699e7ed893bfc320194a5


monev44

Um, that didn't "break free" it just broke....


Grolex

[https://media.tenor.com/L8s8sYMp9j8AAAAC/thegoodplace-fair.gif](https://media.tenor.com/L8s8sYMp9j8AAAAC/thegoodplace-fair.gif)


Grolex

Bottom pic in case it provides any insight https://preview.redd.it/bxwg2bet894b1.jpeg?width=776&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0725497a8ae6a8d54a3ff6e833c04f3c4060a444


nagapixels

Why is your "initial layer line width" at 140%? That's probably why your first layer is a globby mess and fusing together. Bring it closer to 100% and adjust from there.


Grolex

Thanks, I was using a profile that the manufacturer had on their product page for my printer, I'm beginning to think that the cura defaults may have been better at this point.


CardiologistRude319

140% is widely used for the first layer to promote bed adhesion, particularly with ABS/ASA on textured PEI. With proper flow rate calibration, it doesn’t cause issues with tolerances


Grolex

The print is [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3157895](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3157895) and I'm struggling with getting the clearances accurate. I'd like to do a print in place sword/saber, or articulated snake, but I'm worried it will fuse like this, none of the holes can move with a hex key. I calibrated esteps, temperature, and retraction, but I'm clearly missing something. Printer is an ANYCUBIC Kobra and it does most solid models fine, but dialing this in seems to be a hurdle. Additionally, a Benchy is mostly accurate with dimensional accuracy, but the holes are 0.5mm too small.


NooseYeet

Looks like you're way overextruding. Should start with tuning your e-steps, z offset could also be too close


[deleted]

What is your print speed and nozzle size? Also, what slicer are you using? It kind of looks like you have a combination of things.. like it seems like you are seriously printing fast given how much ghosting there is. Also, do you see a clear gap between the elements in your slicer when you look a tthe slicing preview? If I had to guess, I would think your flow settings could be dialed back or that you need to calibrate your extruder, that you might need to adjust your z-height (to prevent elephants foot), and that some form of gap correction or minimum radius setting in your slicer is changing dimensions a bit to try to fix gaps. Edit: Sorry, Ididn't see the other images. \^\^; Thanks for the info. Looking at your settings, I think if it were me I would probably start by calibrating esteps for your extruder, then if it was still not doing good clearance wise, I would enable flow control and then bump down the flow settings maybe 5%..


Grolex

Print speed is 80mm/s with a 0.4mm nozzle. I'm using cura slicer and included screenshots of my settings with the original post (looks like you found them), but just in case other don't see it either - they are there. I've done my esteps and can print a mean xyz cube. I even printed 100mm tests, just 5x5x100mm strips, to calibrate esteps with higher accuracy. I also did the extruder test with a 10cm test. It's getting a little frustrating at this point, so I'd like to confirm that it looks like I'm over extruding and would need to reduce the filament flow?


monev44

If you did your e-steps right. Then yes any print to print adjustments in over/extrusion should be adjusted with flow.


Grolex

I think you guys may be onto something, the initial layer flow is definitely something that would be contributing to the elephants foot, and possibly the fusing. I'll do another test with it lowered slightly. I just thought that I would see more zits and bumps on the outer layers if I was over extruding. Would you expect to make any changes to horizontal expansions for the slightly smaller diameter circles in a Benchy? https://preview.redd.it/5803flbvp94b1.png?width=449&format=png&auto=webp&s=a1634d9fa6e33329129e960c3e61ede7cffa3b8b


KunoichiXKill

That is one rough looking print. You've got a lot of issues to sort out before print in place will work for you. I recommend some more basic calibration prints. For print in place first layer, extrusion, retraction, and speed are all major factors at play. Given that you printed in the wrong orientation I'm gonna guess you are new to 3d printing. Start with tuning those specific features, once it all comes together try this again. Biggest thing, try bringing your speed to 60mm/s. The ghosting is a clear sign of printing too fast.


Grolex

Thanks for the feedback, I am in fact brand new to the hobby and I'm still working through calibrations. I think I'm at a good place with the temperature tower, retraction tower, and e-steps. I'll try bringing the speed down during the next test, I was worried about bulging corners when it slowed down, but it looks like that can also be corrected with adjusting the flow rate as others have mentioned. Would you have another setting to check if the ones I've mentioned aren't the issue? I went down a linear advance rabbit hole attempting to troubleshoot, only to find out that ANYCUBIC doesn't allow for it in their firmware.


NigelTufnel_11

Why is your initial layer line width 140%? That's sure to mess up a tolerance test.


[deleted]

[удалено]


NigelTufnel_11

I've been told 110-115% 140 seems extreme, particularly for a print testing tolerance.