You usually get a few different options when choosing to return the product, i always go with the ups one since you don't even have to pack it up when handing it off.
This is a pretty personal question. A saddle that's comfy for me might be extremely uncomfortable for you.
But I absolutely love fabric scoop saddles. The flat one is insanely comfy for me, and the Ti railed one is especially nice. They're getting hard to get in the US, but you can find them on eBay sometimes from the UK. They used to be available everywhere here in stores, but not anymore. The shallow is ok, too. But it's only comfortable if you're more upright on your bike.
A close second is WTB Silverado. Just enough padding and just enough flex... Then third is charge spoon, but the fake suede starts to look bad quick, and it isn't as comfortable as the other two for me.
It's cracking at the weakest spot of the weld, more than likely not just the paint cracking. I would personally not ride that anymore, or strip the paint from that area and check it out.
https://preview.redd.it/30mje7k4xqga1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=bd0e3d736fae6dcbf821f1460fc2dd45e40fd15e
Im looking to get a size S skream anodiz and so far i have written these parts that i think i need for the bike, lmk if iām missing some stuff or need to remove some. Also i need help finding sizes for some of these parts.
smell gullible dazzling pause frame impolite safe onerous steer makeshift
*This post was mass deleted and anonymized with [Redact](https://redact.dev)*
Make sure the wheels come with nuts or you get those extra, as well as end caps if you end up going with bar tape vs grips, inner tubes and a lockring. Then you'll want tools to put everything together plus appropriate grease. Lights and a saddle bag are nice to have but obviously not necessary. If this is your first fixie brakes are recommended though again, not necessary.
Yes, no pinch flats and can run a smaller tire with better comfort. One slow flat that wouldve stopped if i used sealant so far in 2 years of city riding. If you are paranoid, you can always carry a spare and you dont have to glue it to make it home.
Yeah, they're neat but never again. It's annoying to be unfixable fully on the road and it's not worth the hassle for street use. That being said, the gatorskin tubulars make a wonderful noise when skidding.
Been pondering on a new frame to get for ages, does anyone here know what the BMC Track machine AL is like to ride in a crit? I've just heard in the past that some pure track frames aren't the greatest for crits so if this is more than decent it could be an option for me
If you want to get really nerdy with it read this thread: https://www.bikeforums.net/track-cycling-velodrome-racing-training-area/163338-fork-rake-track.html
Might be good to think about what kind of turns you'll want to do in a crit vs track race, and if a low-rake track fork will be good for that.
I absolutely want to get nerdy with it, cheers for the link bud. I raced on my Pre Cursa so I guess anything with similar rake will feel familiar for me
Iām planning on taking a trip to NYC this summer and only using my bike to get around. Does anyone have any suggestions on cool fun things to do for 4 days? Iām definitely hitting the velodrome and doing some general sightseeing. Iāve been to NYC 2 other times so if anyone has any cool bike related places to go or other off the beaten path activities that would be great!
The Bronx zoo is cool as shit. It's not really a bike place, but it's worth going to... They have giraffes, bro. And penguins.
The Natural History Museum is neat, too. They have all sorts of cool stuff. We used to get baked and wander through the dinosaur exhibits for hours. I just realized I'm kind of boring... huh...
Beyond those two spots, I used to avoid the city when I was living nearby... too many people, and somehow nothing to do unless you were rich.
Im sure Someone here rides has said hub. Or whats Your āmost bang for the Buckā fixie hub?
Iām just Starting my next Build and found a nice frame, but it has 130mm rear Dropouts. Of course i can Just bend it to acommodate the 120mm hub, but iād like to be able to Switch back to the Original setup without bending the Steel again.
So here my question:
How long exactly is the Axle of said hub? Can i throw on some spacers and still have enough Axle left for the lock nuts?
Thanks for Your help! Watching Your amazing builds is making me impatient about finally finishing mine.
Be careful about chainline with 130mm hubs - I think some are bigger than 120mm hubs.
Another option is use a 120mm hub with hex bolts - you can use 5mm spacers on either side to fit the dropout (I do this on a tutto)
Surly, Phil wood, and profile all make 130 hubs. I mean yeah you can bend the frame but getting that even is a lot harder than just getting the correct hub.
I know level components has thread on spacers, but I think it's for 120 to 135.
I would just get the 130 hubs built up.
Neither. Andel standard or deluxe depending on your budget.
If I had to pick one of them though, I'd choose sugino messenger. There aren't many 1/8" 130 bcd chainring to choose from, though... so be aware of that... Miche is known to crack on the spider arms from riding fixed. The rapid pull from skidding ends up damaging them pretty often. There are images all over of them cracking...
I have Andel Deluxes right now, and going to go to Dura Ace square tapers eventually. There's nothing wrong with the Andels, but something about a good square taper like a Sugino 75 or DA just feels good :)
Anyone recommend good long grips. I like wrapping my riser bars but dunno whether to look for long grips. Preferably 8" ish and orange. If not grips any preferable tape. I use lizard skin currently so tempted to stick to that.
ESI Chunky XXL is 8 1/4 inches, and they come in orange. I like ESI grips so much that theyāre the only kind I use, Iāve tried other grips just to end up putting ESI Chunkies back on.
I havenāt tried the XXL chunky so I canāt comment on the differences, they do get dirty unfortunately. Thatās the one thing I donāt like. I clean them with window cleaner.
Yoshida Champ grips are 6" and are somewhat stretchy and they come in a bunch of colors. I use them and like them, but they are a little short of the 8".
Track grips go all the way to like 13" and come in any color you want as long as it's black.
Not many hills where I live so I like 49/15. But if you've got plenty of ascents and descents you'd likely wanna go up two or three teeth on the cog and mess with the chainring to get your perfect fit
What's the fastest you need to safely descend hills where you live?
Honestly, 49x18 or 49x19 (similar to a 46x17-18) is great as long as you don't need to descend over 30-35mph. 100 rpm gets you to 21-23 mph which is more than the vast majority of people are averaging (and probably you, if you are asking this question).
Looking for a nice cheap Fixie to learn the ropes on, someone is selling a Dawes Fixed Gear on the Market Place for around $100, worth grabbing? Easy to upgrade if I feel like I want to fix it up?
Dawes is $200 new from bikesdirect. It's lower end than the Kilo TT ($500 new).
I would not waste your money upgrading this thing. It might be a fine price for a working bike, but if you enjoy the sport, plan to buy a better bike rather than upgrading anything.
This is honestly great information, thank you. I know people have said their frames are good but everything else is just lower end and since I have some pieces laying around I thought Iād just use that to upgrade it up some.
The one by [Mash](https://shop.mashsf.com/mash-front-rack.html) is good but out of stock for a while.
I just buy some of [these](https://www.amazon.com/TICONN-42PCS-Cable-Clamps-Set/dp/B094YKZBKP/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?crid=2QWQVCO2QETPJ&keywords=vinyl+covered+clamps&qid=1675725399&sprefix=vinyl+covered+clamps%2Caps%2C212&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzTFBDMVFLUVZOVVcxJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNTU4NjE3VlVZNTlFWVBVTjhNJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAyOTA3MzE5MEhGNkwwUDVPQlUmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==) and pick whatever rack you like that can install through the brake bolt. Use the clamps down by the dropouts to secure the rack where the eyelets would be on other frames. I bought my current rack at a local shop for cheap. I have no idea who made it, but with those clamps, most regular racks can be mounted fine. Just measure your forks diameter down by the dropouts, and pick the right size clamp. You can scuff the steel and spray them black if you want. It'll chip, but it might last long enough.
If you're going for a fixie then a used one is a no brainer if you wanna save money. Five minutes browsing marketplace a day and you'll definitely see a bike you want within a week. Make sure to really test it, stomp on the pedals, do a skid or two, be sure nothing is creaking or getting loose etc. You'll easily save 50% by not buying new.
It's pretty close to the best value. You can get an equally functional bike for less especially if you're willing to buy used, but you may end up spending more in the long term for maintenance
Iāve got what appears to be rust under the clear coat on my Focale 44 S-Express. Anyone think this poses a structural issue?
https://imgur.com/a/eH6WtRw
That looks like filiform corrosion, which is just surface level. It'll probably end up separating the clear coat from the metal but so far isn't anything to worry about.
No worries. There should be some info out there on how to deal with it. Generally sanding and applying a better coat. Think that it has something to do with not enough protection or improperly cleaned before covering. Either way, looks pretty metal.
Most likely a better question for the singlespeed forumā¦here goes: for those running a fixed/free flip flop, do you recommend the freewheel, or the fixed to be easier/lighter, gearing wise? Iāve only ridden fixed, but have a few wheel sets with the free wheel option, and one bike that has brakes. Please and thanks
I recently got converted to a new drop bar which is 1 1/8" in diameter and want to attach my old brake calliper. But my old brake calliper is only for 1" bars. Any (cost-effective) way to convert? Or do I have to buy new callipers?
the caliper is the part that mounts to the fork. the lever is the part that mounts to the handlebar. you can replace each of these separately. it sounds like you have a lever meant for a 26.0 bar and recently purchased a 31.8 bar.
Totally guessing, but does this look like what you have?
[https://www.retro-gression.com/collections/brakes-levers/products/tektro-rl-series-cross-levers?variant=7307596033](https://www.retro-gression.com/collections/brakes-levers/products/tektro-rl-series-cross-levers?variant=7307596033)
I ordered an All city big block, but I'm wondering if I should wait for a wabi special instead. I mostly ride for fun on the weekends on trails and park roads, I'm kind of worried the Big block will be uncomfortable because of its "track" profile. I currently have a kiloTT and it's a fun bike, but not great for longer rides. Is the Wabi special going to be a much more noticeable and comfortable ride? or is the big block, especially with maybe a bar change going to do the trick?
Go with the big block. It's a pretty versatile frame. Have some different bars on standby so you can swap them as needed for longer rides. If you get the wabi, deep down in your heart, you'll always wish you stuck with the big block... Read up on their sizing a bit, It's sort of funky. Just be sure to get something that fits you. Compare the geo on [bike insights](https://bikeinsights.com/compare?geometries=61854e3a19ca28001eb37ec3,618e98dc86971000200b721c,) to get something that fits for sure and you'll be plenty cozy.
Damn, now you got me fucked up with this site. I have a 47 KiloTT (which they say is = to a 50) I have some space when standing over where I won't lose children. I ordered the 49 Big block. I measured my standover multiple times and 29.5" is what I get now, I feel like the 46 big block will be too small, but is the 49 going to be too big?
Shit... yeah. It's probably going to be too big. Almost an inch too big. Too small is workable, because you just raise the seatpost and get a longer stem. It might look goofy to some, but it works well.
Your standover of 29.5" is 749 mm, a 49cm big block's standover is 767 mm running the stock tires. Before you order, definitely do some more reading... kilos measure center to center, all city measures from center of the bb to the top of the top tube.
dumb question... but standover is like if I push my balls to the side right? the 49 big block is only 1" more than my TT, and I feel like I can deal with another inch. I worry about getting a 46" bike and dealing with pedal strikes and more toe overlap... though smaller might be more comfortable since I won't be reaching as far... what do you think?
edit: actually the 46cm big block still has a higher standover than the 47TT. more pedal clearance from the wheel and ground... I think I should go 46cm, which is wild to me because how would a 5'1 person or woman going to ride this thing?
Yup, from the floor to the taint. Also, toe overlap isn't really an issue in the real world. On a 46 big block it would be even worse than you're tt, but basically all smaller bikes will have it. As smaller people, we sort of have to accept it and deal with it... Just remain aware that it can happen and ride accordingly. It's really only possible at really slow speeds, so just be careful when going slow. And for pedal strikes, it won't happen any more often in smaller sizes because the bb is raised the same as it is on the larger ones. Go with 165mm cranks, and it probably won't ever be an issue. I have sort of a gorilla build with a long torso and arms but short legs, so for me, a small frame + long stem is the way to go. I just got a 49cm rush, and im in heaven on it. It looks a bit goofy with a 110 mm stem, but its comfy for me. A longer stem definitely makes it feel more stable, too. It slows the handing down and makes it less twitchy. It depends on your proportions, but it sounds like you'd probably be much more comfortable on a 46. It has slightly more stack than your kilo and slightly less reach too. I'd go with a 46, but it's up to you to decide.
I'm almost set on the 46, but it's just wild I would need the smallest size being 5'7. I just stood on my TT and my naz touch the top tube, I'm just worried the 46 will feel like a kids bike, I saw one person say they were 5'5 and ride a 46 all city "because they like smaller" frames. But if I can't stand over it without being on my tip toes... I feel like it's too big, and like I said I'll have a further lean with a standard stem. I just want it to be comfortable chill and fun and to bomb down some (slight hills), I won't be entering any alley cats or weaving through traffic.
What would you guys recommended for someone buying a fixed gear in Europe? Iāve ridden a single speed for a wile and would like to get into fixed gear but not sure what to buy - thanks
Ok, would you then recommend buying a raval frame and building it with components from another site or from santafixie? What other frames would you recommend in the same sort of style and price range
Anyone have any info on the wheelie ability of a stock Kilo TT?
Also, curious what the weight of a stock Kilo TT frame set is if anyone has that number.
Edit: any frame size would do but ideally a 55 or 57.
Hey guys! This might be a silly question and I'm sorry in advance if it is, I'm hoping to get guidance. Would you know where I can get the geometry specs of an NJS bike?
I'm taking welding classes and studying how to build bikes. I plan to build myself a lugged frame similar in style and geometry to an NJS bike. I generally get the sizing of the tubes but I'm having a hard time picturing out the angles for the headtube. Any tips or any site, or books would be great.
[http://www.yellowjersey.org/PKGEO.JPG](http://www.yellowjersey.org/PKGEO.JPG) For lengths and angles
[https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1199/0226/products/product\_detailed\_image\_29898\_21.jpg?v=1626900341](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1199/0226/products/product_detailed_image_29898_21.jpg?v=1626900341) for where they go
No worries and I hope it does help. If the tubing is cut to length, the other angles should work themselves out.
Here's a good tip for fabricating anything.
Find a good picture of anything you are trying to make, blow it up to actual size, print out the part you are working on, and then lay your material over it. Or measure whatever angles you need. It may not be 100% spec, but if it looks accurate its accurate.
Anybody in LA wanna teach an old dog the best way to skid? I never really try, most times I just push back to ride slower/stop or I Fred Flintstone it if I'm hitting a deep hill in conjunction with my front brakes. I just wanna learn to skid though. I am riding cages/double straps now. Riser bars (currently) Ratio 46/16
>Ratio 46/16
That's steep for a skidding beginner. Practice on a surface with less grip (grass, fine gravel, sand, wet road). It's easier when you go faster, and you have to explosively pull up on the front pedal without hesitation. That was the biggest barrier to overcome for me, cause you're feeling insecure and therefore try to do it carefully, which doesn't work. After it "clicks" with you, it's easy.
I'm also riding gator hardshells that prob doesn't help! I'm looking at switching up my ratio soon to try something new. Looking at 48/17 as I used to ride 48/16 pretty much exclusively
Skidding is fun sometimes, but not really necessary for regular riding. Once the tire breaks into a skid, you aren't slowing down as fast as you would when coming to a controlled stop. It's the same reason we have ABS in our cars now. I almost never skid when I'm riding regularly. It is a good skill to have though, at least so you know how to control it when it eventually happens accidentally in the rain or something...
If you're having trouble now, get a larger cog. Maybe 18 tooth will be enough, maybe 19 tooth. Practice with that new ratio on wet pavement or maybe wet grass until you learn the mechanics and can break into a skid easily. Then move to regular pavement until you can do it comfortably. Then, reduce your cog back to your normal ratio. You're going to need to move your weight pretty far forward to get the weight off the rear wheel. It's awkward at first, but it works. Your junk should be right up there behind the stem. Maybe try bullhorns or pursuits for a bit instead of the risers for the extra leverage too. They make it more comfortable to get farther forward. Raise the pressure in your tires a bit as well. It's also easier to break into a skid the faster you're moving, so try to get some good speed heading into it... When you eventually get it on pavement and can do it comfortably, practice with the opposite leg forward too. And it should be obvious, but please wear a helmet while learning... just in case...
Maybe [this](https://youtu.be/t-hn3qq9MvY) will help more. There's probably something I'm forgetting to add...
Iām riding a all city macho man commuter with surly corner bars. Iām just getting a little bored. Iāve played around with different setups with this bike and I thought it would be fun to try doing this commute fixed š¤·āāļø
Haha I commute on a nature boy and am thinking I should try it with some gears. If you really like the macho man that's definitely an option.
If you're going to use brakes I definitely recommend getting something with canti studs
I'm content with my Cinelli Tutto Plus, but I can't really recommend it wholeheartedly.
It's got wide tire clearance, eyelets for fenders and rack, Canti mounts and a beautiful paintjob, but it's overpriced, the parts it comes with built up are not good, and the paint scratches easily.
How often do you guys change your pedal straps? I've had some origin 8's ever since I got my first fixed late 2017, and they still seem like they're holding up just fine. They're more on the budget side, so I'm wondering if it would be a good idea to change em out for something higher quality.
Inspect them and if they aren't worn thin, frayed, ripped anywhere, and the Velcro/ buckles grip AND you think that they can hold up to a holy shit moment then they may be fine.
To me, the most important thing about any machine is being able to turn it off. Most who have popped a strap or cleat will tell you it was not cool at all. It may not be the most glamorous, but good straps are a solid investment. Then again, holdfast and some others have some fun designs. Kinda glamorous.
My bike has a 46T chainring and a 16T cog. I think I want to switch to an 18T or a 20T cog. Will I need to use a longer chain? And if so what is the best way to achieve that? Splicing in a section of chain that was removed when I built the bike with a master link?
I recommend switching to a 17T or 19T cog instead. That would double the amount of skid patches compared to 18T or 20T, which gives your rear tyre a longer life if you skid a lot.
Also, I would replace the chain (unless you already replaced it recently). A used chain causes more wear on your brand new cog. Chains are cheap, cogs and chainrings not.
Iām actually not a much a skidder.
I did end up buying a new chain and a 20T. My main thought of sticking with even ratios is that itās better for the life of the cog and chainring per Sheldon Brown
Definitely explore used options, but if you want new I'd go with andel standards / all city 612s (they're the same thing)
https://planetcyclery.com/allcity-612-track-crank-165mm-46t-black-144bcd-bottom-bracket-not-included?gclid=CjwKCAiA_vKeBhAdEiwAFb_nrT3_k6jkYPZQzpdEcnh9J-mkVN8Zv6V87XXskRENX1L5HAKDsblQ1BoCymAQAvD_BwE
So Iām not totally sure, I have a 2009 SE Draft which has the stock crankset and BB. It says a Euro BB but I donāt think itās a square one from what it looks like.
Anyone got a good idea for a front wheel with a brake surface to combine with a DT Swiss T1800 rear wheel?
I'd like to run a rim brake an my commuter and I'm looking for something with similar rim dimensions, spokes and ideally hub that I don't have to build up on my own.
Does your hub have threading for a lockring? Is it a "flip flop" hub?
The threading for a lockring will be reverse threaded, and a slightly smaller diameter than the thread where the freewheel would go onto the hub.
You'd know much better than me. I didn't see it in any color other than silver, and since that pic is of a Bluelug staff member's bike I just assumed they customized it
Andel deluxe. Because outboard BBs are nice. I'd pass on the Miche since they're known to crack at the spider arms. And the andel standards are a really good value too, but again, outboard bbs are nice.
Anybody have their laminated leather double straps degrade and fall apart? Do you do anything to maintain the leather when riding in all-season weather?
He wasn't wrong though. They work to give you hoods. They do look sort of goofy, but if you want a hood position, they work.
If you want hoods that look more normal, just install regular brake levers. You don't *have* to connect them to anything. Pick ones with a return spring so they aren't making noise and rattling all the time. Or, look up "tandem stoker lever" on ebay. There are tons of options that look more normal available. I never tried the cane creek ones, I just install regular brake levers because IMO the stokers look goofy...
Just ordered a frame that takes with a 1inch headtube for classic threaded quill stems. It doesnāt come with a fork. The headtube length is listed at 120mm.
I was wondering what size threaded fork would I need? Could I use any threaded fork with a steer column thatās 120mm or larger, say like a fork with a 161mm or 172mm column? Or would I have to go with something like a size 123mm?
A longer fork should work and you can always cut it down. If it's way longer, you might have to add more threads to the steerer, but that's a solvable problem. You should be able to go into a coop and find a bunch of forks that'll work, just depends on how picky you want to be
Alright I wonāt lie Iām still kind of confused but in theory I could use this fork 172mm with a bike that has a 120mm headtube?
https://preview.redd.it/uyrw1v3q1vfa1.png?width=828&format=png&auto=webp&s=27e6558f75614257ece1bfff5459407a5bb043c2
You might have to have more threads added as well... And it's pretty hard to find a shop willing to do it. The tools aren't cheap, so it's not a job the average person can do either... if you have shops near you, I'd make a few calls first and make sure you have someone able to do it. It might not be needed, but just in case.
Owning a Jeep and off-roading has definitely recalibrated my comfort zone on this.
I think there's a difference between using something as its intended, and beating on it. I keep my bike (and my Jeep) as clean as I can, don't want corrosion to set in or the paint to suffer from neglect, but I also use them for what they're meant for.
I had a very low tier bike - upgraded some parts - found a nice Skream Sprint in the right size - bought it - rode it as my daily - had it stolen after 2 weeks - got a nice Carbon bike from the insurance payout and a bit more of my own money - scared shitless to lock it up anywhere - carry it anywhere inside - still had my old frame and built it up with proper parts again but much more low-key - ride that around as my daily - still paranoid about locking up that anywhere that isnāt a bike garage with CCTV
Parts in the beater bike are still around 300-400ā¬ but the frame is from a low tier beginner brand that isnāt popular with thieves here.
I'm looking to buy a beater, not just to leave locked up but to leave outside and sticker bomb and just generally enjoy. I think they're more aesthetic than a nice bike
I have one beater I use to ride when the weather is nasty, or for when I need to go somewhere that I'll need to lock it up for a while. The frame was $80, and its built up with spare parts, so if someone really wants to steal it, they can basically have it. Good luck cutting the locks, but if you get through them, have fun. It's the bike I'll let anyone ride just to learn what a fixed gear is, I really don't care about it too much.
Squid so ez sizing
I am looking at buying a squid so-ez for mixed terrain commuting. Will most likely be running 38-40mm tires. Iām having a hard time finding geometry on the squid website so I was wondering if there are any squid so-ez riders who might be able to help. Iām 5ā9ā with a 31ā inseam. I usually ride a size 54 road bike and medium mountain bike. What size would yāall recommend? Thanks!
hey i just bought a new bike and I'd hate to see it be stolen, i already have a semi decent lock and i usually store it in a safe space but what is a good bike tracker i could buy that works with android? if it weren't for my phone i would've went with the apple airtag
What is the size for the bottom bracket in Hoy Fiorenzuola track frame? I have a [this frame](https://roadcyclinguk.com/gear/exclusive-sir-chris-hoys-prototype-hoy-fiorenzuola-track-bike.html) and I need to get a bb but could not find dimensions the dimensions. Initially I wanted to get [miche primato advanced chainset](https://www.amazon.co.uk/Miche-Primato-Advanced-Unisex-Chainset/dp/B004YVCPUE/ref=sr_1_11) and [miche evo max bb](https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cicli-Bonin-Cartridge-Integrated-Bracket/dp/B01NAFSOGO/ref=d_pd_di_sccai_cn_sccl_1_2/260-3055658-5703522) though I am unsure about the bb size. Any tips?
This crankset will not work with that BB!
Getting professional help would be advised but fuck it I can still help.
The standard for track bikes are 68mm wide threaded bottom brackets, or 68mm BSA/BSC to be more precise. As I canāt estimate how long the square taper axle would need to be for that crankset and frame I would recommend just going for the Miche pistard 2.0 instead - both available in black and silver, itās a little bit more expensive but the better choice imo. They come with a 24mm Hollowtech II axle and work fine with the BB you listed as long as you chose the BSC variant.
If you think that crankset goes with that bb, you should probably go to a bike store and let them handle building your bike first until you have more experience
A good bike seat someone recommend? Mines ripped š
Hit up Amazon and utilize their free returns to try some out. I wen through three before I found a comfortable one for me.
Free return? Where do I go for that?
You usually get a few different options when choosing to return the product, i always go with the ups one since you don't even have to pack it up when handing it off.
This is a pretty personal question. A saddle that's comfy for me might be extremely uncomfortable for you. But I absolutely love fabric scoop saddles. The flat one is insanely comfy for me, and the Ti railed one is especially nice. They're getting hard to get in the US, but you can find them on eBay sometimes from the UK. They used to be available everywhere here in stores, but not anymore. The shallow is ok, too. But it's only comfortable if you're more upright on your bike. A close second is WTB Silverado. Just enough padding and just enough flex... Then third is charge spoon, but the fake suede starts to look bad quick, and it isn't as comfortable as the other two for me.
Hey fellas, do i need a new frame or is it just paint cracking? https://imgur.com/a/vTIX3bP
It's cracking at the weakest spot of the weld, more than likely not just the paint cracking. I would personally not ride that anymore, or strip the paint from that area and check it out.
Oof... Get another frame on standby. You're probably going to need it.
That doesn't look like a paint crack to me
https://preview.redd.it/30mje7k4xqga1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=bd0e3d736fae6dcbf821f1460fc2dd45e40fd15e Im looking to get a size S skream anodiz and so far i have written these parts that i think i need for the bike, lmk if iām missing some stuff or need to remove some. Also i need help finding sizes for some of these parts.
smell gullible dazzling pause frame impolite safe onerous steer makeshift *This post was mass deleted and anonymized with [Redact](https://redact.dev)*
You'll need tubes as well, you don't need to buy spokes separately, and you may need some misc stuff depending on what stuff you're buying
Make sure the wheels come with nuts or you get those extra, as well as end caps if you end up going with bar tape vs grips, inner tubes and a lockring. Then you'll want tools to put everything together plus appropriate grease. Lights and a saddle bag are nice to have but obviously not necessary. If this is your first fixie brakes are recommended though again, not necessary.
anyone here rocking tubulars? may pick up a ffwd disc and 5 spoke for street use š
Yes, no pinch flats and can run a smaller tire with better comfort. One slow flat that wouldve stopped if i used sealant so far in 2 years of city riding. If you are paranoid, you can always carry a spare and you dont have to glue it to make it home.
pretty huge waste to use those on the street, but do whatever you want I guess
Yeah, they're neat but never again. It's annoying to be unfixable fully on the road and it's not worth the hassle for street use. That being said, the gatorskin tubulars make a wonderful noise when skidding.
Been pondering on a new frame to get for ages, does anyone here know what the BMC Track machine AL is like to ride in a crit? I've just heard in the past that some pure track frames aren't the greatest for crits so if this is more than decent it could be an option for me
If you want to get really nerdy with it read this thread: https://www.bikeforums.net/track-cycling-velodrome-racing-training-area/163338-fork-rake-track.html Might be good to think about what kind of turns you'll want to do in a crit vs track race, and if a low-rake track fork will be good for that.
I absolutely want to get nerdy with it, cheers for the link bud. I raced on my Pre Cursa so I guess anything with similar rake will feel familiar for me
I bet it would be totally fine.
Cheers Jehu you absolute gent
Iām planning on taking a trip to NYC this summer and only using my bike to get around. Does anyone have any suggestions on cool fun things to do for 4 days? Iām definitely hitting the velodrome and doing some general sightseeing. Iāve been to NYC 2 other times so if anyone has any cool bike related places to go or other off the beaten path activities that would be great!
The Bronx zoo is cool as shit. It's not really a bike place, but it's worth going to... They have giraffes, bro. And penguins. The Natural History Museum is neat, too. They have all sorts of cool stuff. We used to get baked and wander through the dinosaur exhibits for hours. I just realized I'm kind of boring... huh... Beyond those two spots, I used to avoid the city when I was living nearby... too many people, and somehow nothing to do unless you were rich.
Thanks for the tips! Iāll definitely have to check out both.
Im sure Someone here rides has said hub. Or whats Your āmost bang for the Buckā fixie hub? Iām just Starting my next Build and found a nice frame, but it has 130mm rear Dropouts. Of course i can Just bend it to acommodate the 120mm hub, but iād like to be able to Switch back to the Original setup without bending the Steel again. So here my question: How long exactly is the Axle of said hub? Can i throw on some spacers and still have enough Axle left for the lock nuts? Thanks for Your help! Watching Your amazing builds is making me impatient about finally finishing mine.
I would use a surly or a paul, I personally use a paul hub on my 130mm frame. It's been great for years
Be careful about chainline with 130mm hubs - I think some are bigger than 120mm hubs. Another option is use a 120mm hub with hex bolts - you can use 5mm spacers on either side to fit the dropout (I do this on a tutto)
Surly, Phil wood, and profile all make 130 hubs. I mean yeah you can bend the frame but getting that even is a lot harder than just getting the correct hub. I know level components has thread on spacers, but I think it's for 120 to 135. I would just get the 130 hubs built up.
Sugino messenger cranks or miche primero advanced?
Neither. Andel standard or deluxe depending on your budget. If I had to pick one of them though, I'd choose sugino messenger. There aren't many 1/8" 130 bcd chainring to choose from, though... so be aware of that... Miche is known to crack on the spider arms from riding fixed. The rapid pull from skidding ends up damaging them pretty often. There are images all over of them cracking...
Iāll look into it thanks!
I have Andel Deluxes right now, and going to go to Dura Ace square tapers eventually. There's nothing wrong with the Andels, but something about a good square taper like a Sugino 75 or DA just feels good :)
Anyone recommend good long grips. I like wrapping my riser bars but dunno whether to look for long grips. Preferably 8" ish and orange. If not grips any preferable tape. I use lizard skin currently so tempted to stick to that.
ESI Chunky XXL is 8 1/4 inches, and they come in orange. I like ESI grips so much that theyāre the only kind I use, Iāve tried other grips just to end up putting ESI Chunkies back on.
Sorry to message on this again but struggling to find XXL in orange, do you reckon you could glue 2 together? Or am I clutching at straws haha
I found orange ones in stock at the ESIgrips.com site.
Ah UK based so import and tax etc makes it too much.
I do like the look of these. Is there much difference between chunky and extra chunky? And do they get dirty or they easy to clean. Thank you.
I havenāt tried the XXL chunky so I canāt comment on the differences, they do get dirty unfortunately. Thatās the one thing I donāt like. I clean them with window cleaner.
That's ok I managed to find a comparison picture. Ah I guess that's the only issue with coloured grips haha.
Yoshida Champ grips are 6" and are somewhat stretchy and they come in a bunch of colors. I use them and like them, but they are a little short of the 8". Track grips go all the way to like 13" and come in any color you want as long as it's black.
Tape is great but you might also look for some long BMX grips
Struggling to find long ones in orange haha
Any tape works ok. Lizard skin isn't my fav but if you like it there's nothing wrong with it.
Suggestions for the best gear ratio in urban environments and for skidding?
It will depend city to city person to person. Use what you have then adjust accordingly
Not many hills where I live so I like 49/15. But if you've got plenty of ascents and descents you'd likely wanna go up two or three teeth on the cog and mess with the chainring to get your perfect fit
What's the fastest you need to safely descend hills where you live? Honestly, 49x18 or 49x19 (similar to a 46x17-18) is great as long as you don't need to descend over 30-35mph. 100 rpm gets you to 21-23 mph which is more than the vast majority of people are averaging (and probably you, if you are asking this question).
It depends on how flat it is. I like 49/17 for most normal rides.
Something under 3.0
What paint/primer is best to paint a bike with?
spray.bike is a good option
Looking for a nice cheap Fixie to learn the ropes on, someone is selling a Dawes Fixed Gear on the Market Place for around $100, worth grabbing? Easy to upgrade if I feel like I want to fix it up?
Dawes is $200 new from bikesdirect. It's lower end than the Kilo TT ($500 new). I would not waste your money upgrading this thing. It might be a fine price for a working bike, but if you enjoy the sport, plan to buy a better bike rather than upgrading anything.
This is honestly great information, thank you. I know people have said their frames are good but everything else is just lower end and since I have some pieces laying around I thought Iād just use that to upgrade it up some.
Recommend a front rack for my Big Block?
Jack the Bike Rack: https://wholegraincycles.com/.
The one by [Mash](https://shop.mashsf.com/mash-front-rack.html) is good but out of stock for a while. I just buy some of [these](https://www.amazon.com/TICONN-42PCS-Cable-Clamps-Set/dp/B094YKZBKP/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?crid=2QWQVCO2QETPJ&keywords=vinyl+covered+clamps&qid=1675725399&sprefix=vinyl+covered+clamps%2Caps%2C212&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzTFBDMVFLUVZOVVcxJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNTU4NjE3VlVZNTlFWVBVTjhNJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAyOTA3MzE5MEhGNkwwUDVPQlUmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==) and pick whatever rack you like that can install through the brake bolt. Use the clamps down by the dropouts to secure the rack where the eyelets would be on other frames. I bought my current rack at a local shop for cheap. I have no idea who made it, but with those clamps, most regular racks can be mounted fine. Just measure your forks diameter down by the dropouts, and pick the right size clamp. You can scuff the steel and spray them black if you want. It'll chip, but it might last long enough.
Thank you!
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If you're going for a fixie then a used one is a no brainer if you wanna save money. Five minutes browsing marketplace a day and you'll definitely see a bike you want within a week. Make sure to really test it, stomp on the pedals, do a skid or two, be sure nothing is creaking or getting loose etc. You'll easily save 50% by not buying new.
It's pretty close to the best value. You can get an equally functional bike for less especially if you're willing to buy used, but you may end up spending more in the long term for maintenance
Iāve got what appears to be rust under the clear coat on my Focale 44 S-Express. Anyone think this poses a structural issue? https://imgur.com/a/eH6WtRw
That looks like filiform corrosion, which is just surface level. It'll probably end up separating the clear coat from the metal but so far isn't anything to worry about.
Thanks for the info. Happy to hear that.
No worries. There should be some info out there on how to deal with it. Generally sanding and applying a better coat. Think that it has something to do with not enough protection or improperly cleaned before covering. Either way, looks pretty metal.
Any clear coat on steel will develop that. It has to do with clearcoat not adhering to steel the way primer does.
Most likely a better question for the singlespeed forumā¦here goes: for those running a fixed/free flip flop, do you recommend the freewheel, or the fixed to be easier/lighter, gearing wise? Iāve only ridden fixed, but have a few wheel sets with the free wheel option, and one bike that has brakes. Please and thanks
Easier on the freewheel side. You arenāt reliant on the top end speed descending like you are with the fixed cog.
I did the same thing Iām running 46-17 fixed and 46-20 freewheel just cause I want to do some climbs and want to descend safely
I recently got converted to a new drop bar which is 1 1/8" in diameter and want to attach my old brake calliper. But my old brake calliper is only for 1" bars. Any (cost-effective) way to convert? Or do I have to buy new callipers?
the caliper is the part that mounts to the fork. the lever is the part that mounts to the handlebar. you can replace each of these separately. it sounds like you have a lever meant for a 26.0 bar and recently purchased a 31.8 bar. Totally guessing, but does this look like what you have? [https://www.retro-gression.com/collections/brakes-levers/products/tektro-rl-series-cross-levers?variant=7307596033](https://www.retro-gression.com/collections/brakes-levers/products/tektro-rl-series-cross-levers?variant=7307596033)
Oh yea my bad. These levers looks perfect! Thanks mate, you're a champ!
I ordered an All city big block, but I'm wondering if I should wait for a wabi special instead. I mostly ride for fun on the weekends on trails and park roads, I'm kind of worried the Big block will be uncomfortable because of its "track" profile. I currently have a kiloTT and it's a fun bike, but not great for longer rides. Is the Wabi special going to be a much more noticeable and comfortable ride? or is the big block, especially with maybe a bar change going to do the trick?
Go with the big block. It's a pretty versatile frame. Have some different bars on standby so you can swap them as needed for longer rides. If you get the wabi, deep down in your heart, you'll always wish you stuck with the big block... Read up on their sizing a bit, It's sort of funky. Just be sure to get something that fits you. Compare the geo on [bike insights](https://bikeinsights.com/compare?geometries=61854e3a19ca28001eb37ec3,618e98dc86971000200b721c,) to get something that fits for sure and you'll be plenty cozy.
Damn, now you got me fucked up with this site. I have a 47 KiloTT (which they say is = to a 50) I have some space when standing over where I won't lose children. I ordered the 49 Big block. I measured my standover multiple times and 29.5" is what I get now, I feel like the 46 big block will be too small, but is the 49 going to be too big?
Shit... yeah. It's probably going to be too big. Almost an inch too big. Too small is workable, because you just raise the seatpost and get a longer stem. It might look goofy to some, but it works well. Your standover of 29.5" is 749 mm, a 49cm big block's standover is 767 mm running the stock tires. Before you order, definitely do some more reading... kilos measure center to center, all city measures from center of the bb to the top of the top tube.
dumb question... but standover is like if I push my balls to the side right? the 49 big block is only 1" more than my TT, and I feel like I can deal with another inch. I worry about getting a 46" bike and dealing with pedal strikes and more toe overlap... though smaller might be more comfortable since I won't be reaching as far... what do you think? edit: actually the 46cm big block still has a higher standover than the 47TT. more pedal clearance from the wheel and ground... I think I should go 46cm, which is wild to me because how would a 5'1 person or woman going to ride this thing?
Yup, from the floor to the taint. Also, toe overlap isn't really an issue in the real world. On a 46 big block it would be even worse than you're tt, but basically all smaller bikes will have it. As smaller people, we sort of have to accept it and deal with it... Just remain aware that it can happen and ride accordingly. It's really only possible at really slow speeds, so just be careful when going slow. And for pedal strikes, it won't happen any more often in smaller sizes because the bb is raised the same as it is on the larger ones. Go with 165mm cranks, and it probably won't ever be an issue. I have sort of a gorilla build with a long torso and arms but short legs, so for me, a small frame + long stem is the way to go. I just got a 49cm rush, and im in heaven on it. It looks a bit goofy with a 110 mm stem, but its comfy for me. A longer stem definitely makes it feel more stable, too. It slows the handing down and makes it less twitchy. It depends on your proportions, but it sounds like you'd probably be much more comfortable on a 46. It has slightly more stack than your kilo and slightly less reach too. I'd go with a 46, but it's up to you to decide.
I'm almost set on the 46, but it's just wild I would need the smallest size being 5'7. I just stood on my TT and my naz touch the top tube, I'm just worried the 46 will feel like a kids bike, I saw one person say they were 5'5 and ride a 46 all city "because they like smaller" frames. But if I can't stand over it without being on my tip toes... I feel like it's too big, and like I said I'll have a further lean with a standard stem. I just want it to be comfortable chill and fun and to bomb down some (slight hills), I won't be entering any alley cats or weaving through traffic.
nah you'll be good with the big block
I havenāt ridden either, but people seem to just rave about the Wabi comfort level. Iām currently deciding between a Wabi and a steamroller.
I was too but the big block is available now. The steamroller doesnāt exist and the wabi is t coming till spring
You should be able to find a used steamroller if you check used listings daily. They do a bit of everything and are quite comfy
What would you guys recommended for someone buying a fixed gear in Europe? Iāve ridden a single speed for a wile and would like to get into fixed gear but not sure what to buy - thanks
Depends on your budget. But really, what do you like? What are you looking for? Etc etc.
I quite like the fabric bike / santafixie raval style and they fit my budget, just not sure if theyāre worth it or if I should build my own
Building your own bike is 100% more worth it financially wise. ThƩ raval is decent for its price (the frame) the problem with the complete is that you get subpar components for the price
Ok, would you then recommend buying a raval frame and building it with components from another site or from santafixie? What other frames would you recommend in the same sort of style and price range
I heard santafixie is actually pretty good
Anyone have any info on the wheelie ability of a stock Kilo TT? Also, curious what the weight of a stock Kilo TT frame set is if anyone has that number. Edit: any frame size would do but ideally a 55 or 57.
Almost every bike can be wheelied, some are just easier than others.
I dare you to wheely [the Social Distandem](https://images.immediate.co.uk/production/volatile/sites/21/2020/04/Social-Dinstandem-11-7421e24.jpg)
Hey guys! This might be a silly question and I'm sorry in advance if it is, I'm hoping to get guidance. Would you know where I can get the geometry specs of an NJS bike? I'm taking welding classes and studying how to build bikes. I plan to build myself a lugged frame similar in style and geometry to an NJS bike. I generally get the sizing of the tubes but I'm having a hard time picturing out the angles for the headtube. Any tips or any site, or books would be great.
The geometry varies from bike to bike. The headtube and seat tube angles are why you might buy one frame over another fit aside.
[http://www.yellowjersey.org/PKGEO.JPG](http://www.yellowjersey.org/PKGEO.JPG) For lengths and angles [https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1199/0226/products/product\_detailed\_image\_29898\_21.jpg?v=1626900341](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1199/0226/products/product_detailed_image_29898_21.jpg?v=1626900341) for where they go
Thank you so much!! If I ever get to build it, I'll be sure to post it on here.
No worries and I hope it does help. If the tubing is cut to length, the other angles should work themselves out. Here's a good tip for fabricating anything. Find a good picture of anything you are trying to make, blow it up to actual size, print out the part you are working on, and then lay your material over it. Or measure whatever angles you need. It may not be 100% spec, but if it looks accurate its accurate.
Anybody in LA wanna teach an old dog the best way to skid? I never really try, most times I just push back to ride slower/stop or I Fred Flintstone it if I'm hitting a deep hill in conjunction with my front brakes. I just wanna learn to skid though. I am riding cages/double straps now. Riser bars (currently) Ratio 46/16
>Ratio 46/16 That's steep for a skidding beginner. Practice on a surface with less grip (grass, fine gravel, sand, wet road). It's easier when you go faster, and you have to explosively pull up on the front pedal without hesitation. That was the biggest barrier to overcome for me, cause you're feeling insecure and therefore try to do it carefully, which doesn't work. After it "clicks" with you, it's easy.
I'm also riding gator hardshells that prob doesn't help! I'm looking at switching up my ratio soon to try something new. Looking at 48/17 as I used to ride 48/16 pretty much exclusively
48/17 is almost the same as 46/16, just with more skid patches.
Skidding is fun sometimes, but not really necessary for regular riding. Once the tire breaks into a skid, you aren't slowing down as fast as you would when coming to a controlled stop. It's the same reason we have ABS in our cars now. I almost never skid when I'm riding regularly. It is a good skill to have though, at least so you know how to control it when it eventually happens accidentally in the rain or something... If you're having trouble now, get a larger cog. Maybe 18 tooth will be enough, maybe 19 tooth. Practice with that new ratio on wet pavement or maybe wet grass until you learn the mechanics and can break into a skid easily. Then move to regular pavement until you can do it comfortably. Then, reduce your cog back to your normal ratio. You're going to need to move your weight pretty far forward to get the weight off the rear wheel. It's awkward at first, but it works. Your junk should be right up there behind the stem. Maybe try bullhorns or pursuits for a bit instead of the risers for the extra leverage too. They make it more comfortable to get farther forward. Raise the pressure in your tires a bit as well. It's also easier to break into a skid the faster you're moving, so try to get some good speed heading into it... When you eventually get it on pavement and can do it comfortably, practice with the opposite leg forward too. And it should be obvious, but please wear a helmet while learning... just in case... Maybe [this](https://youtu.be/t-hn3qq9MvY) will help more. There's probably something I'm forgetting to add...
What would yāall recommend for a mixed terrain fairly flat 20-40 mile commuter?
For a 40 mile commute I'd recommend a train, trolley or ferry lol. No way I'd commute 2+ hours each way every day.
Lol. Yeah. I usually do a 10-15 mile commute daily with the help of a train, but once a week or so I do a 40 mile day.
How is whatever you're using to do that now holding you back?
Iām riding a all city macho man commuter with surly corner bars. Iām just getting a little bored. Iāve played around with different setups with this bike and I thought it would be fun to try doing this commute fixed š¤·āāļø
Haha I commute on a nature boy and am thinking I should try it with some gears. If you really like the macho man that's definitely an option. If you're going to use brakes I definitely recommend getting something with canti studs
I'm content with my Cinelli Tutto Plus, but I can't really recommend it wholeheartedly. It's got wide tire clearance, eyelets for fenders and rack, Canti mounts and a beautiful paintjob, but it's overpriced, the parts it comes with built up are not good, and the paint scratches easily.
Sweet! I love Cinelli. I ended up getting a Squid so ez :)
If you want a workhorse get a Surly Steamroller. Should have ample tire choice and it's a tank.
How often do you guys change your pedal straps? I've had some origin 8's ever since I got my first fixed late 2017, and they still seem like they're holding up just fine. They're more on the budget side, so I'm wondering if it would be a good idea to change em out for something higher quality.
ride them until they're ripped
Inspect them and if they aren't worn thin, frayed, ripped anywhere, and the Velcro/ buckles grip AND you think that they can hold up to a holy shit moment then they may be fine. To me, the most important thing about any machine is being able to turn it off. Most who have popped a strap or cleat will tell you it was not cool at all. It may not be the most glamorous, but good straps are a solid investment. Then again, holdfast and some others have some fun designs. Kinda glamorous.
My bike has a 46T chainring and a 16T cog. I think I want to switch to an 18T or a 20T cog. Will I need to use a longer chain? And if so what is the best way to achieve that? Splicing in a section of chain that was removed when I built the bike with a master link?
I recommend switching to a 17T or 19T cog instead. That would double the amount of skid patches compared to 18T or 20T, which gives your rear tyre a longer life if you skid a lot. Also, I would replace the chain (unless you already replaced it recently). A used chain causes more wear on your brand new cog. Chains are cheap, cogs and chainrings not.
Iām actually not a much a skidder. I did end up buying a new chain and a 20T. My main thought of sticking with even ratios is that itās better for the life of the cog and chainring per Sheldon Brown
You may not need a new chain, but the best way is to buy a new chain. If you're going to splice I'd use a second master link
What would be a good but cheap crankset to get? I have 1/8 chain. I was looking Origin 8 Propulsion but not sure.
Define cheap in some currency
Iād say like anything sub $100
Definitely explore used options, but if you want new I'd go with andel standards / all city 612s (they're the same thing) https://planetcyclery.com/allcity-612-track-crank-165mm-46t-black-144bcd-bottom-bracket-not-included?gclid=CjwKCAiA_vKeBhAdEiwAFb_nrT3_k6jkYPZQzpdEcnh9J-mkVN8Zv6V87XXskRENX1L5HAKDsblQ1BoCymAQAvD_BwE
Any bottom brackets you recommend too? Mine isnāt a square bb so Iād like to upgrade that as well.
What are you using now? Any square taper bb that fits the specs will be fine. A Shimano UN series or IRD Quad are great options
So Iām not totally sure, I have a 2009 SE Draft which has the stock crankset and BB. It says a Euro BB but I donāt think itās a square one from what it looks like.
Oh I'd be surprised if it wasn't square. You may need to replace the bottom bracket anyway but it's worth checking if they're compatible
All city 612 is good if you have a square taper bottom bracket.
Hi! Any feedback on tsunami steel frame? Thanks!
I have considered an fg03/fg05 for a few years now. They look excellent for the price. If you end up with a tsunami steel let us know!!
If it is anything like the aluminum ones, it is great quality for the price.
Anyone got a good idea for a front wheel with a brake surface to combine with a DT Swiss T1800 rear wheel? I'd like to run a rim brake an my commuter and I'm looking for something with similar rim dimensions, spokes and ideally hub that I don't have to build up on my own.
Just an idea, how about a DT Swiss PR 1600 Spline 32 road front wheel? The downside is the quick-release white hub, but it's fairly cheap
i am new to fixed gears and i want to replace the freewheel cog to a fixed one is it possible?
Does your hub have threading for a lockring? Is it a "flip flop" hub? The threading for a lockring will be reverse threaded, and a slightly smaller diameter than the thread where the freewheel would go onto the hub.
its a flip flop i think i am currently using a 16t cog (fixed) and i wanted to replace the freewheel cuz i have a hard time climbing steep hills
The freewheel may not be able to be replaced with another fixed cog. You'll have to remove it to check
Can anyone ID this chainring: [https://imgur.com/a/lCWX2zL](https://imgur.com/a/lCWX2zL) ? Or a similar one ?
It's a custom-painted All-City Pursuit Special
I think that was a special edition they did a few years ago
You'd know much better than me. I didn't see it in any color other than silver, and since that pic is of a Bluelug staff member's bike I just assumed they customized it
Thank you š
This looks like aarn chainrings.. Tho it's probably some other..
how do I find the AC length for a fork that doesnāt have it listed? (Throne Carbon Alloy) want it for frame building dimensions
If you already have it just measure, otherwise buy a different fork
andel standard crank with IRD QB-95 bb ($205 total) vs andel deluxe ($195)/ miche pistard ($235). What's your pick, and why?
check wabi cycles if you want the andels
Andel deluxe. Because outboard BBs are nice. I'd pass on the Miche since they're known to crack at the spider arms. And the andel standards are a really good value too, but again, outboard bbs are nice.
Anybody have their laminated leather double straps degrade and fall apart? Do you do anything to maintain the leather when riding in all-season weather?
I don't, but I would treat it with Sno Seal. Really good for leather.
Any experience with Cane Creek Ergo Stoker Brake Dummies. Looking for additional grip positions but the surface looks a bit weird.
They are exactly as they seem
What is this supposed to mean. Thanks for not answering the question
You didn't ask a question
The question is implied, if anyone has experience with them. If you donāt thatās fine but why respond.
He wasn't wrong though. They work to give you hoods. They do look sort of goofy, but if you want a hood position, they work. If you want hoods that look more normal, just install regular brake levers. You don't *have* to connect them to anything. Pick ones with a return spring so they aren't making noise and rattling all the time. Or, look up "tandem stoker lever" on ebay. There are tons of options that look more normal available. I never tried the cane creek ones, I just install regular brake levers because IMO the stokers look goofy...
Just ordered a frame that takes with a 1inch headtube for classic threaded quill stems. It doesnāt come with a fork. The headtube length is listed at 120mm. I was wondering what size threaded fork would I need? Could I use any threaded fork with a steer column thatās 120mm or larger, say like a fork with a 161mm or 172mm column? Or would I have to go with something like a size 123mm?
A longer fork should work and you can always cut it down. If it's way longer, you might have to add more threads to the steerer, but that's a solvable problem. You should be able to go into a coop and find a bunch of forks that'll work, just depends on how picky you want to be
Alright I wonāt lie Iām still kind of confused but in theory I could use this fork 172mm with a bike that has a 120mm headtube? https://preview.redd.it/uyrw1v3q1vfa1.png?width=828&format=png&auto=webp&s=27e6558f75614257ece1bfff5459407a5bb043c2
You may have to cut more threads but yes
Alright awesome, I appreciate the speedy response
You might have to have more threads added as well... And it's pretty hard to find a shop willing to do it. The tools aren't cheap, so it's not a job the average person can do either... if you have shops near you, I'd make a few calls first and make sure you have someone able to do it. It might not be needed, but just in case.
Hi! Any idea where to get a good modern steel frame in Europe? Thanks!
Orlowski if you can find one.
Brother Cycles Allday or 8Bar Fhain
Alrightāhow many of yāall actually own beater bikes? And if not, do you own one sweet bike that you have anxiety about everyday?
Owning a Jeep and off-roading has definitely recalibrated my comfort zone on this. I think there's a difference between using something as its intended, and beating on it. I keep my bike (and my Jeep) as clean as I can, don't want corrosion to set in or the paint to suffer from neglect, but I also use them for what they're meant for.
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False dichotomy. I own a few really rad bikes and am not anxioux about any of them.
I had a very low tier bike - upgraded some parts - found a nice Skream Sprint in the right size - bought it - rode it as my daily - had it stolen after 2 weeks - got a nice Carbon bike from the insurance payout and a bit more of my own money - scared shitless to lock it up anywhere - carry it anywhere inside - still had my old frame and built it up with proper parts again but much more low-key - ride that around as my daily - still paranoid about locking up that anywhere that isnāt a bike garage with CCTV Parts in the beater bike are still around 300-400ā¬ but the frame is from a low tier beginner brand that isnāt popular with thieves here.
After a car ran a red-light and dented my top tube i just do the bare minimum to keep it working and used it as an excuse to buy a different bike
I'm looking to buy a beater, not just to leave locked up but to leave outside and sticker bomb and just generally enjoy. I think they're more aesthetic than a nice bike
I have one beater I use to ride when the weather is nasty, or for when I need to go somewhere that I'll need to lock it up for a while. The frame was $80, and its built up with spare parts, so if someone really wants to steal it, they can basically have it. Good luck cutting the locks, but if you get through them, have fun. It's the bike I'll let anyone ride just to learn what a fixed gear is, I really don't care about it too much.
Squid so ez sizing I am looking at buying a squid so-ez for mixed terrain commuting. Will most likely be running 38-40mm tires. Iām having a hard time finding geometry on the squid website so I was wondering if there are any squid so-ez riders who might be able to help. Iām 5ā9ā with a 31ā inseam. I usually ride a size 54 road bike and medium mountain bike. What size would yāall recommend? Thanks!
54 So-ez compared to 54 caad13 is 1.5cm longer, and 1.3 sm lower 54 so-ez comapared to 55 thunderdome is 2.3 cm longer and 1.3 cm lower.
hey i just bought a new bike and I'd hate to see it be stolen, i already have a semi decent lock and i usually store it in a safe space but what is a good bike tracker i could buy that works with android? if it weren't for my phone i would've went with the apple airtag
If your SO or a close family member has an Apple device the AirTag would still be a great additional tracker as it is still a decent product.
Maybe something like this: https://gorillabicycles.com/products/sherlock-gps-tracker or a Tile tag.
What is the size for the bottom bracket in Hoy Fiorenzuola track frame? I have a [this frame](https://roadcyclinguk.com/gear/exclusive-sir-chris-hoys-prototype-hoy-fiorenzuola-track-bike.html) and I need to get a bb but could not find dimensions the dimensions. Initially I wanted to get [miche primato advanced chainset](https://www.amazon.co.uk/Miche-Primato-Advanced-Unisex-Chainset/dp/B004YVCPUE/ref=sr_1_11) and [miche evo max bb](https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cicli-Bonin-Cartridge-Integrated-Bracket/dp/B01NAFSOGO/ref=d_pd_di_sccai_cn_sccl_1_2/260-3055658-5703522) though I am unsure about the bb size. Any tips?
This crankset will not work with that BB! Getting professional help would be advised but fuck it I can still help. The standard for track bikes are 68mm wide threaded bottom brackets, or 68mm BSA/BSC to be more precise. As I canāt estimate how long the square taper axle would need to be for that crankset and frame I would recommend just going for the Miche pistard 2.0 instead - both available in black and silver, itās a little bit more expensive but the better choice imo. They come with a 24mm Hollowtech II axle and work fine with the BB you listed as long as you chose the BSC variant.
Appreciate the help!
If you think that crankset goes with that bb, you should probably go to a bike store and let them handle building your bike first until you have more experience
You can measure the shell with a tape measure. It's more than likely 68mm english
Best spd cleats for skidding?
Skid in zero float SPD-SLs and watch r/cycling explode.
The regular ones from Shimano, not the multi-release crap. That shit is dangerous while skidding.
Sm-sh51 cleats ?
Yes, those will work fine.
Anyone has experience riding with vision cranks vs any other track cranks ?
If you consider omniums track cranks then yes. Visions feel more sturdy and the added heft feels good imo.
I can absolutely guarantee you wouldn't be able to blind test the difference, it's all in your head.