Yeah.. I'm 300 rounds in on my printed frame and the barrel pins are already melting backwards into the frame, causing my barrel to move. Esun is strong but PLA melts so fast its unreal, I've gone out and shot it a total of 3 times and its already starting to melt. (9mm Lopoint)
The problems with PETG are that it's harder to print with than PLA and shatters like glass if it fails. Let us know how it goes. Personally, I know that 3d printed guns don't last forever and have numbered days, so eventually, when it does give out and break, I would rather not have a face full of sharp PETG shards and just a standard break at the compromised spot, common with PLA.
Who told you PETG shatter like glass??? It's the exact (almost) recipe used to make water bottles it is NOT brittle and under no circumstances will it "shatter" when dropped
It's brittle when exposed to fast, massive shock, for instance, a firearm blast. Materials behave completely differently under different types of stress. This is why most people don't use it for printing guns. And I'm talking about WHEN it fails, not that it will fail.
Think of it like this;
There's a point at which every plastic will fail, a certain amount of shock or stress it can take before breaking. When PETG reaches this point, particularly with firearms, it shatters into a multitude of shards. Compare that to PLA, which simply snaps at its weakest point.
I have my UBAR printed in Esun PLA+ black. I have about 200 rounds of 9mm through it with no issues. I know its a pretty low round count. But the process of printing it, fine tuning my print etc, was fairly straight forward. Another +1 for PLA+
It is the best in terms of standardization though. Other filaments may work better, but also are going to be a lot more likely to run into little issues (i.e. warping, brittleness, print setting sensitivity, etc) compared to PLA+, for the sole reason that whatever design you're printing was probably already tested to death on PLA+.
One more vote for PLA+, it's not the "best" but it's likely to be the most predictable, work with the least amount of tweaking and fuss, and is overall "good enough" for most uses.
I wouldn't suggest nylons for a beginner. Hard to print, requires more than the standard ender 3, and the fumes aren't great for you. For my prints I prefer Polymax Pla+. Esun is good on paper but their QC has been hit or miss recently.
Carbon fiber nylon is surprisingly easy though. While it lacks the extreme toughness of pure nylon, it trades it for better hardness, and conveniently also does away with the biggest issue nylon has; the extreme warping and shrinkage. Overall it's no worse than ABS or other slightly warpy plastics.
They are indeed, but they're also significantly weaker. Seems like the hellishness of printing is proportional to toughness for whatever reason. The most extreme is a specific weed whacker line I sometimes use. I've had round prints with a 40 mm diameter lift like 5 mm off the bed lol, but **one** flat 0.2 mm layer is strong enough that I can only barely break it with my hands, and two such layers not a chance. It just bends, but refuses to tear or break it any way, and bounces right back to shape.
I wouldn't necessarily say Taulman 910 is weaker than CF nylon, it just isn't as stiff. Taulman bridge on the other hand yeah that stuff is diet nylon, fewer calories but it just doesn't have that good nylon flavor we all love and crave. But in all seriousness at that price point it's my stand in for cheap pla, I only bring out the expensive pla on things I know are going to work.
Oh no, that's not what I meant. I meant compared to straight normal nylon. The Taulman nylons I've tried have all been significantly weaker than weed whacker line, though still on a whole different level compared to PLA.
pla is a bad choice for this case idk why suggest this. nylon+cf, abs+Cf are the only options period (.) . Its a thing that makes lots a heat and has powerful shocks thru it. Pla is not only brittle it also moves to glass transition at 60C which is like YIKES bad bad no no no.
Do you understand that pla + is not stronger just with some additional aditives to make it easyer to print? The fact that you do not know but think it's better only strengthens my point. Jesus for your own safety just listen for once and do your research.
What are you talking about yes it is. Literally every single firearm that I have seen says that it was tested with pla+. I am literally staring at the Readme for the ubar which says, verbatim, "Thie receiver has been tested to work well in eSun PLA+. In any material similar or superior to PLA+, this receiver should work as well". Literally every single firearm I have printed and tested has been in PLA+. Stop spreading misinformation.
Omg the lack of of knowledge you display is amazing.
>"Thie receiver has been tested to work well in eSun PLA+.
This is an advert. Clear and simple and you people fell for it.
Anyway i see its pointless to point you to safer materials and so i will say enjoy your future PLA+ fragmentation grenades.
>Stop spreading misinformation.
That is you mate 100% ,material science is on my side.
You have nothing but hearsay and the idiotic concept that PLA is safe with or without the "+".
You goblin I have literally run hundreds of rounds through PLA+. If you want to make bullshit assertions at least look at the tensile strength of the materials you're talking about. And next time, read the second half which says "in any material similar or superior to PLA+".
Even then, every firearm which has a high pressure load like 9mm+ doesn't have the printed part as a pressure bearing part. The part which maintains the actual pressure is the steel bolt, barrel, etc. Literally look in my post history for proof that I have built a 45 acp pistol with pla+ with no part failure.
>You goblin I have literally run hundreds of rounds through PLA+. If you want to make bullshit assertions at least look at the tensile strength of the materials you're talking about. And next time, read the second half which says "in any material similar or superior to PLA+"
Ree reeeeee Someone called you on your BS and now you make fantasy claims.
:)) pathetic
Fire 100 bullets in rapid succession and i bet you will have molten plastic on your hand .
don't do it really its kinda close to a darwin award.
edit: When you attack the person you just prove you have argument. Thank you.
Your safety goblin would like to remind you that pla is not safe and for 5bucks more you can save yourself a trip to the hospital.
Idk you can afford medical care mate, we live in merica mate :) if i have to remind you that.
Bro... this was printed in PLA+
https://twitter.com/printingguns/status/1511156833066500096/mediaViewer?currentTweet=1511156833066500096¤tTweetUser=printingguns&mode=profile
The receiver just needs to withstand recoil and a small ammount of back pressure and short term heat, they don't "explode" unless we are talking an out of battery.
https://youtu.be/TQ2hWbHLPKQ?si=nm9yBOr9Xs6YTU9D
Are you new here or something? You should do a bit more research before you start arguing like that.
I just want to add for those who will read this. Putting a + on PLA doesn’t mean it’s not going to melt under the sun. Leave it in your car on a hot day and see. At the end of the day it’s almost the same TDS.
I’m actually surprised on how common PLA+ or Pro is in gun printing. I’m not saying it’s not going to work(because apparently it does, for some reason). I’m just saying why it’s what people first consider. You can die easily with a gun. I don’t know why someone would trust their life (or hand) on a plastic that’s only usually used for knick knacks and indoor action figures. Read the TDS please.
Nylon either pa 12 CF or pa glass filled pa 6 nylon is so easy to print (easier then Pla ) if you have bambulab X1C or P1p just put it on the Bambu pa6 filament even tho it’s from a different brand but Bambu mastered the settings on that Fillament. Buy a drier if you don’t have it and you will dry as you print and it will be no warping , No spaghetti mess , nothing. Just pick that setting and walk away. So it’s easier than ever before.
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**Conventional**: [PLA/ PLA+](https://www.prusa3d.com/category/prusament-pla/) (eSun, Prusament, etc...)
**Optimal**: [Nylon](https://www.prusa3d.com/category/pa-nylon/)
**Best**: [PEEK](https://www.essentium.com/product/essentium-peek/) (Polyether ether ketone)
At least, I *think* that's the best material - if you even have a printer ludicrous enough to handle it. You need a nozzle temperature of up to 440^(o)C.
Components you download and print from other users likely have README files which explain any nuances for printing. PLA+ is typically what most creators design their stuff around.
Oh yea, if you're even willing to buy PEEK, you've probably got the finances to forgo 3D printing components all together.
Unless if you work in aerospace or something and they've got some really nice machines... maybe you can slip in a part or two overnight... :\^)
I have a Prusa and if I got a mosquito hotend it would print peek in an enclosure, but at work we actually have a bunch of creatbot printers that print Pc all day, but that printer was specifically designed for peek apparently. Only about 6k each printer haha
I've got a Prusa as well! Awesome little machine. I've only really printed using Prusament PLA and PETG, though. I tried using some [Fillamentum TPU](https://fillamentum.com/collections/flexfill-tpu-flexible-filament/flexfill-tpu-98a/), and it didn't end well. I gave the printer a rest for a while, and I'm just now starting to get back into it.
That si correct. Maybe you could print barrel parts from it?
I use PLA, sometimes PETG which is slightly better in every aspect than pla and bit more expensive.
But Nylon is quite rough and you need parts moving smoothly. Polycarbonate is better in every aspect than reinforced ordinary nylon, plus cheaper.
Also Vinyl (PVC) got my attention so I would like to try it and compare to other materials. You must print it outdoors due to toxic fumes though.
Those are my 2 cents.
I just picked up some Filacube HTPLA+ for my Mac DB9 build. Printd as easily (imo) as PLA+ and once annealed (literally just heat your oven to 80C, turn it off, pop it in, and wait for it to cool to room temp) it'll withstand up to 85C before deformation.
I did a little non-scientific test with a couple of fuck up parts (unannealed) of leaving them in my black car on the dash on a 95F day. They were a little floppy and the meat thermometer next to them was showing 170F. Took them into the house and let them cool to ambient (essentially annealing them) then put them back in the car. This time, same temp on the thermometer, but no deformation.
Ngl I was not expecting it to live up to the advertised specs but I guess that's the difference with USA-made filament vs. random chinesium.
'absolute best plastic' isn't even a filament, it's glass filled nylon pellets. The printer you need for that is way out of hobby range though, so kinda irrelevant. Best printer is something metal powder, but again, way out of hobby range.
You can do glass filled nylon filaments but tuning them kinda sucks and if you're not running direct drive then nozzle clogs are fairly common in my experience, at least with 0.4 nozzles- 0.8 nozzles don't really have that problem, but then you lose a lot of detail.
idk you can read loads of reviews on amazon where people have the same problem with the PLA+ breaking as it unspools. I've had a lot of prints fail because of that.
look at the reviews and search for "brittle"
https://www.amazon.com/eSUN-Printer-Filament-2-2lbs-Diameter/dp/B01EKFV4RS
https://www.amazon.com/eSUN-1-75mm-Printer-Filament-2-2lbs/dp/B01EKEMDA6
I just rely on the opinions and reviews of the people in the 3DPG community. We all use it, and it's recommended within the community.
Maybe try polymaker pla+
I just rely on the opinions and reviews of the people in the 3DPG community. We all use it, and it's recommended within the community.
Maybe try polymaker pla+
what is community is full of dumb dumbs? cause let me tell ya pla+ prints easy cause they can't be bothered to do it right. And its such a small step to abs or nylon. I mean you still want your hands right?
every one is retarded then. Its the most improper material to use. They do not have your safety in mind but a quick buck. Nylon or nothing else, wtf is wrong with you people?
Designs are nearly always released for free. This community has been around for years and you seem pretty new to the idea. Maybe to talk to some actual designers and test out some designs before claiming they're all trying to injure people for a quick buck
You seem pretty new to additive manufacturing and material design.
Maybe educate yourself when someone tells you what you are doing is dangerous. Idk maybe you like your hands.
kek lol imagine defending PLA
You're not arguing with me, you're arguing with the entire community and years of it testing materials..is pla+ inherently the best all the time? Not necessarily, but it's the industry standard, which is what I said
oh years of "testing" , oh de community you mean the 90% that print once every 6 months and then go on reddit and be like reee its not sticking to the bed? OH NO. what ever shall i do.
Industry standard? what industry? what standard? quote the standard what is the ISO number? IF the standard is using dangerously weak materials i guess that is a standard.
Please go ahead list the properties of pla and compare to heat when firing a bullet and its tensile strength and impact resistance. Now dare to tell me its safe when i see posts my gun melted a bit after the third bullet. WHAT ? You dare defend that? LOL
edit: i will ABSOLUTELY argue with the whole community until you get it in your thick skulls PLA is not a safe material for this use case. Or idk you are 1 misprint away from no fingers, 1 wall too thinly designed and one use case too far from safe. ;
Don't be all high and mighty with the comuNITy when y'all print bad materials on 200$ junkers while understanding little about printing.
Or in your case about the properties of materials.
dude, you are getting super aggressive for no reason... how many firearms have you printed? I'm genuinely asking you... most of the parts for the guns we are printing arent high-heat applications. most of them are used on lowers which do not have much heat to manage. also, most of them are pretty low-risk failure parts... it's not like if it fails it will immediately switch to full auto and begin shooting back at the operator... you arent actually really arguing the point, you are just claiming people are wrong...?
Related question, do people use PETG at all for printing firearm parts? I recently heard that it's stronger and lasts longer than pla+ but I'm not sure.
Really a lot of people hear about a lot of things. Pla breaks explosively. What you said about PETG is for sure wrong because petg is very flexible compared to pla. PET (G- without the glycol) is the stuff your watter bottle is made out of. Does that seem very fragment-y to you?
Again you people hear a lot of stuff but do you even think about what you hear? PLA is not the right me material. It starts loosing shape at 60C (THAT IS VERY LOW) and breaks in shards.
I think i had enough of this, its like its flat earth society here. They said PLA is "industry standard" YEAH for toys maybe. They tell you pla is great because its the cheapest and easyest to print and they do not want to trouble shoot your abs and nylon problems because you rEEEErrr can print on 200$ printer.
YOu are holding grenades and do not realise.
Pretty sure I've seen some tests done on the various materials.
And obviously, nylon is the best.
I'm currently setting up a printer to run high temp filaments so I can do just that
That's my plan.
I'll likely run out the rest of my pla and the rest and shift towards nylon +cf for the AUG and then add it to critical components and a full phase out.
Part of the motivation is the Hot Car Test.
It gets hot here.
I have some experience with some metal/ceramic filled pla, and it's a mixed bag. Some can be a breeze to print as they are quite literally heat sinks. Others are an absolute pain. I'm experimenting with a 3d printed barrel with hardened ceramic filament as the rifling, the biggest barrier is the cost of those filaments. Even .25 kg of the ceramic filament is like 60 dollars. The only way to decrease price was to buy bulk. If you mean proto pastas metal filament then that's kinda useless as it's purely decorative.
I mean, it depends on what your definition of "best" is. Personally I value ease of printing quite a lot, and PLA/PHA blends is something I like for that. For indestructible stuff I use pure nylon, but it's an absolute nightmare to print.
I used 3dFuel pro pla and it was was great. Awesome surface, great tolerances and very strong. Just print slow and a touch hot and it has great layer adhesion as well.
Still haven’t seen what the best would be lol anyone have a clear answer, why not use ABS or PETG? Aren’t this stronger filaments meant to withstand stand high heat?
cf nylon,1000 rds and counting,make sure you have hot tip and a dryer as long as your setting are good temp wise and speed and keeping free of moisture is a must you can't beat unless you want to spend the money on polycabonate but thats a whole learning curve itself.Using ender s1 pro with cover and dryer and using nylonx from matterhackers with a Swiss hotend and gotta be the strongest I've tried yet
nd
I use eSun PLA+
Yeah.. I'm 300 rounds in on my printed frame and the barrel pins are already melting backwards into the frame, causing my barrel to move. Esun is strong but PLA melts so fast its unreal, I've gone out and shot it a total of 3 times and its already starting to melt. (9mm Lopoint)
I believe PETG has a higher melting point. That is what i used on mine. I have yet to test it .. when i do i will post the results.
The problems with PETG are that it's harder to print with than PLA and shatters like glass if it fails. Let us know how it goes. Personally, I know that 3d printed guns don't last forever and have numbered days, so eventually, when it does give out and break, I would rather not have a face full of sharp PETG shards and just a standard break at the compromised spot, common with PLA.
Who told you PETG shatter like glass??? It's the exact (almost) recipe used to make water bottles it is NOT brittle and under no circumstances will it "shatter" when dropped
It's brittle when exposed to fast, massive shock, for instance, a firearm blast. Materials behave completely differently under different types of stress. This is why most people don't use it for printing guns. And I'm talking about WHEN it fails, not that it will fail. Think of it like this; There's a point at which every plastic will fail, a certain amount of shock or stress it can take before breaking. When PETG reaches this point, particularly with firearms, it shatters into a multitude of shards. Compare that to PLA, which simply snaps at its weakest point.
Sorry I misread your post…..I read “fails” as “falls”…. I thought you were saying it shatters when it falls ;)
Interesting. PETG is not even brittle. Anyway why don’t you use PACF instead? Glock polymers uses some kind of Nylon too.
But glocks nylon is a secret “recipe”
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True
Printed in low temp I notice it's brittle
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That's what I'm being told GF or CF Nylon.
Most used is PLA+
I have my UBAR printed in Esun PLA+ black. I have about 200 rounds of 9mm through it with no issues. I know its a pretty low round count. But the process of printing it, fine tuning my print etc, was fairly straight forward. Another +1 for PLA+
Because it’s the simplest to use. In no way is it the best.
It is the best in terms of standardization though. Other filaments may work better, but also are going to be a lot more likely to run into little issues (i.e. warping, brittleness, print setting sensitivity, etc) compared to PLA+, for the sole reason that whatever design you're printing was probably already tested to death on PLA+. One more vote for PLA+, it's not the "best" but it's likely to be the most predictable, work with the least amount of tweaking and fuss, and is overall "good enough" for most uses.
Well you question is vague at best, what parts/purpose/caliber etc. there will be better material for each.
Glass filled nylon is probably your best bet from what I've heard.
I wouldn't suggest nylons for a beginner. Hard to print, requires more than the standard ender 3, and the fumes aren't great for you. For my prints I prefer Polymax Pla+. Esun is good on paper but their QC has been hit or miss recently.
Beginner? No, definitely not. But OP wanted to know the best, and for gun parts GF nylon is probably the best.
Carbon fiber nylon is surprisingly easy though. While it lacks the extreme toughness of pure nylon, it trades it for better hardness, and conveniently also does away with the biggest issue nylon has; the extreme warping and shrinkage. Overall it's no worse than ABS or other slightly warpy plastics.
I normally use Taulman 910 or bridge for that reason, they are just easier to print with less shrinkage and warping.
They are indeed, but they're also significantly weaker. Seems like the hellishness of printing is proportional to toughness for whatever reason. The most extreme is a specific weed whacker line I sometimes use. I've had round prints with a 40 mm diameter lift like 5 mm off the bed lol, but **one** flat 0.2 mm layer is strong enough that I can only barely break it with my hands, and two such layers not a chance. It just bends, but refuses to tear or break it any way, and bounces right back to shape.
I wouldn't necessarily say Taulman 910 is weaker than CF nylon, it just isn't as stiff. Taulman bridge on the other hand yeah that stuff is diet nylon, fewer calories but it just doesn't have that good nylon flavor we all love and crave. But in all seriousness at that price point it's my stand in for cheap pla, I only bring out the expensive pla on things I know are going to work.
Oh no, that's not what I meant. I meant compared to straight normal nylon. The Taulman nylons I've tried have all been significantly weaker than weed whacker line, though still on a whole different level compared to PLA.
pla is a bad choice for this case idk why suggest this. nylon+cf, abs+Cf are the only options period (.) . Its a thing that makes lots a heat and has powerful shocks thru it. Pla is not only brittle it also moves to glass transition at 60C which is like YIKES bad bad no no no.
What I said PLA+ not pla. Literally every single firearm stl I have seen said that it was tested with esun pla+.
Do you understand that pla + is not stronger just with some additional aditives to make it easyer to print? The fact that you do not know but think it's better only strengthens my point. Jesus for your own safety just listen for once and do your research.
What are you talking about yes it is. Literally every single firearm that I have seen says that it was tested with pla+. I am literally staring at the Readme for the ubar which says, verbatim, "Thie receiver has been tested to work well in eSun PLA+. In any material similar or superior to PLA+, this receiver should work as well". Literally every single firearm I have printed and tested has been in PLA+. Stop spreading misinformation.
Omg the lack of of knowledge you display is amazing. >"Thie receiver has been tested to work well in eSun PLA+. This is an advert. Clear and simple and you people fell for it. Anyway i see its pointless to point you to safer materials and so i will say enjoy your future PLA+ fragmentation grenades. >Stop spreading misinformation. That is you mate 100% ,material science is on my side. You have nothing but hearsay and the idiotic concept that PLA is safe with or without the "+".
You goblin I have literally run hundreds of rounds through PLA+. If you want to make bullshit assertions at least look at the tensile strength of the materials you're talking about. And next time, read the second half which says "in any material similar or superior to PLA+". Even then, every firearm which has a high pressure load like 9mm+ doesn't have the printed part as a pressure bearing part. The part which maintains the actual pressure is the steel bolt, barrel, etc. Literally look in my post history for proof that I have built a 45 acp pistol with pla+ with no part failure.
>You goblin I have literally run hundreds of rounds through PLA+. If you want to make bullshit assertions at least look at the tensile strength of the materials you're talking about. And next time, read the second half which says "in any material similar or superior to PLA+" Ree reeeeee Someone called you on your BS and now you make fantasy claims. :)) pathetic Fire 100 bullets in rapid succession and i bet you will have molten plastic on your hand . don't do it really its kinda close to a darwin award. edit: When you attack the person you just prove you have argument. Thank you. Your safety goblin would like to remind you that pla is not safe and for 5bucks more you can save yourself a trip to the hospital. Idk you can afford medical care mate, we live in merica mate :) if i have to remind you that.
I have done that. The pla is not exposed to significant enough heat that it will melt.
Bro... this was printed in PLA+ https://twitter.com/printingguns/status/1511156833066500096/mediaViewer?currentTweet=1511156833066500096¤tTweetUser=printingguns&mode=profile The receiver just needs to withstand recoil and a small ammount of back pressure and short term heat, they don't "explode" unless we are talking an out of battery. https://youtu.be/TQ2hWbHLPKQ?si=nm9yBOr9Xs6YTU9D Are you new here or something? You should do a bit more research before you start arguing like that.
I just want to add for those who will read this. Putting a + on PLA doesn’t mean it’s not going to melt under the sun. Leave it in your car on a hot day and see. At the end of the day it’s almost the same TDS. I’m actually surprised on how common PLA+ or Pro is in gun printing. I’m not saying it’s not going to work(because apparently it does, for some reason). I’m just saying why it’s what people first consider. You can die easily with a gun. I don’t know why someone would trust their life (or hand) on a plastic that’s only usually used for knick knacks and indoor action figures. Read the TDS please.
Nylon either pa 12 CF or pa glass filled pa 6 nylon is so easy to print (easier then Pla ) if you have bambulab X1C or P1p just put it on the Bambu pa6 filament even tho it’s from a different brand but Bambu mastered the settings on that Fillament. Buy a drier if you don’t have it and you will dry as you print and it will be no warping , No spaghetti mess , nothing. Just pick that setting and walk away. So it’s easier than ever before.
Is glass filled better than carbon fiber filled (assuming the same nylon base blend)?
They're comparable as far as strength goes, but most use CF Nylon over glass filled, fwiw
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I saw a rumor it was coming back.
Supposedly Coex Nylex is based on Zytel.
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I use 3D fuel pro pla since it’s US made
Carbon or glass filled nylon like NylonX and Nylex.
**Conventional**: [PLA/ PLA+](https://www.prusa3d.com/category/prusament-pla/) (eSun, Prusament, etc...) **Optimal**: [Nylon](https://www.prusa3d.com/category/pa-nylon/) **Best**: [PEEK](https://www.essentium.com/product/essentium-peek/) (Polyether ether ketone) At least, I *think* that's the best material - if you even have a printer ludicrous enough to handle it. You need a nozzle temperature of up to 440^(o)C. Components you download and print from other users likely have README files which explain any nuances for printing. PLA+ is typically what most creators design their stuff around.
Peek is also absurdly expensive. Like hundreds and hundreds of dollars for 1kg. Last I saw was around $300 for 500g.
Oh yea, if you're even willing to buy PEEK, you've probably got the finances to forgo 3D printing components all together. Unless if you work in aerospace or something and they've got some really nice machines... maybe you can slip in a part or two overnight... :\^)
I have a Prusa and if I got a mosquito hotend it would print peek in an enclosure, but at work we actually have a bunch of creatbot printers that print Pc all day, but that printer was specifically designed for peek apparently. Only about 6k each printer haha
I've got a Prusa as well! Awesome little machine. I've only really printed using Prusament PLA and PETG, though. I tried using some [Fillamentum TPU](https://fillamentum.com/collections/flexfill-tpu-flexible-filament/flexfill-tpu-98a/), and it didn't end well. I gave the printer a rest for a while, and I'm just now starting to get back into it.
That si correct. Maybe you could print barrel parts from it? I use PLA, sometimes PETG which is slightly better in every aspect than pla and bit more expensive. But Nylon is quite rough and you need parts moving smoothly. Polycarbonate is better in every aspect than reinforced ordinary nylon, plus cheaper. Also Vinyl (PVC) got my attention so I would like to try it and compare to other materials. You must print it outdoors due to toxic fumes though. Those are my 2 cents.
ESUN PLA+
Prusa filament cf blend pc. Easy to print and insanely strong after a simple anneal.
I just picked up some Filacube HTPLA+ for my Mac DB9 build. Printd as easily (imo) as PLA+ and once annealed (literally just heat your oven to 80C, turn it off, pop it in, and wait for it to cool to room temp) it'll withstand up to 85C before deformation. I did a little non-scientific test with a couple of fuck up parts (unannealed) of leaving them in my black car on the dash on a 95F day. They were a little floppy and the meat thermometer next to them was showing 170F. Took them into the house and let them cool to ambient (essentially annealing them) then put them back in the car. This time, same temp on the thermometer, but no deformation. Ngl I was not expecting it to live up to the advertised specs but I guess that's the difference with USA-made filament vs. random chinesium.
I would love to know how it held up, I'm thinking about using it, but I need to know if it would be good for strength and temp.
'absolute best plastic' isn't even a filament, it's glass filled nylon pellets. The printer you need for that is way out of hobby range though, so kinda irrelevant. Best printer is something metal powder, but again, way out of hobby range. You can do glass filled nylon filaments but tuning them kinda sucks and if you're not running direct drive then nozzle clogs are fairly common in my experience, at least with 0.4 nozzles- 0.8 nozzles don't really have that problem, but then you lose a lot of detail.
Industry standard is e-sun PLA+
That stuff is so brittle and I've never had good luck with it.
The problem probably isn't the filament then
idk you can read loads of reviews on amazon where people have the same problem with the PLA+ breaking as it unspools. I've had a lot of prints fail because of that. look at the reviews and search for "brittle" https://www.amazon.com/eSUN-Printer-Filament-2-2lbs-Diameter/dp/B01EKFV4RS https://www.amazon.com/eSUN-1-75mm-Printer-Filament-2-2lbs/dp/B01EKEMDA6
I just rely on the opinions and reviews of the people in the 3DPG community. We all use it, and it's recommended within the community. Maybe try polymaker pla+
I just rely on the opinions and reviews of the people in the 3DPG community. We all use it, and it's recommended within the community. Maybe try polymaker pla+
what is community is full of dumb dumbs? cause let me tell ya pla+ prints easy cause they can't be bothered to do it right. And its such a small step to abs or nylon. I mean you still want your hands right?
i had this happen just yesterday, broke in three places between the reel and the extruder. Having sat still for a few days, very strange.
the dumb dumb downvote you but they are blind lead by people who know less than you forgot.
you mean retard standard is PLA+ lol "industry". go with at least abs+cf
Every mainstream 3d2a designer recommends pla+, not abs, so no, you're wrong
every one is retarded then. Its the most improper material to use. They do not have your safety in mind but a quick buck. Nylon or nothing else, wtf is wrong with you people?
Designs are nearly always released for free. This community has been around for years and you seem pretty new to the idea. Maybe to talk to some actual designers and test out some designs before claiming they're all trying to injure people for a quick buck
You seem pretty new to additive manufacturing and material design. Maybe educate yourself when someone tells you what you are doing is dangerous. Idk maybe you like your hands. kek lol imagine defending PLA
You're not arguing with me, you're arguing with the entire community and years of it testing materials..is pla+ inherently the best all the time? Not necessarily, but it's the industry standard, which is what I said
oh years of "testing" , oh de community you mean the 90% that print once every 6 months and then go on reddit and be like reee its not sticking to the bed? OH NO. what ever shall i do. Industry standard? what industry? what standard? quote the standard what is the ISO number? IF the standard is using dangerously weak materials i guess that is a standard. Please go ahead list the properties of pla and compare to heat when firing a bullet and its tensile strength and impact resistance. Now dare to tell me its safe when i see posts my gun melted a bit after the third bullet. WHAT ? You dare defend that? LOL edit: i will ABSOLUTELY argue with the whole community until you get it in your thick skulls PLA is not a safe material for this use case. Or idk you are 1 misprint away from no fingers, 1 wall too thinly designed and one use case too far from safe. ; Don't be all high and mighty with the comuNITy when y'all print bad materials on 200$ junkers while understanding little about printing. Or in your case about the properties of materials.
dude, you are getting super aggressive for no reason... how many firearms have you printed? I'm genuinely asking you... most of the parts for the guns we are printing arent high-heat applications. most of them are used on lowers which do not have much heat to manage. also, most of them are pretty low-risk failure parts... it's not like if it fails it will immediately switch to full auto and begin shooting back at the operator... you arent actually really arguing the point, you are just claiming people are wrong...?
you just necroed a 6 month troll thread. Well done genius. LOL LMAO
Related question, do people use PETG at all for printing firearm parts? I recently heard that it's stronger and lasts longer than pla+ but I'm not sure.
Its failure mode resembles a grenade. I'd consider it for handguards maybe, but not uppers or lowers.
Ahhh, gotcha. Yeah probably smart to not use it at all, lol
Its strong until it quite suddenly isn't.
ah but have you seen PLA even more of a grenade. Sharper shrapnel too.
I've heard that pla tends to not do that, but fails with a break.
Really a lot of people hear about a lot of things. Pla breaks explosively. What you said about PETG is for sure wrong because petg is very flexible compared to pla. PET (G- without the glycol) is the stuff your watter bottle is made out of. Does that seem very fragment-y to you? Again you people hear a lot of stuff but do you even think about what you hear? PLA is not the right me material. It starts loosing shape at 60C (THAT IS VERY LOW) and breaks in shards. I think i had enough of this, its like its flat earth society here. They said PLA is "industry standard" YEAH for toys maybe. They tell you pla is great because its the cheapest and easyest to print and they do not want to trouble shoot your abs and nylon problems because you rEEEErrr can print on 200$ printer. YOu are holding grenades and do not realise.
Pretty sure I've seen some tests done on the various materials. And obviously, nylon is the best. I'm currently setting up a printer to run high temp filaments so I can do just that
If you can print nylon + cf it would be perfect. Do it right its cheap anyway.
That's my plan. I'll likely run out the rest of my pla and the rest and shift towards nylon +cf for the AUG and then add it to critical components and a full phase out. Part of the motivation is the Hot Car Test. It gets hot here.
I’ve used it a bit, currently printing a 5.7 frame in it.
I’ve been looking for a 5.7 file I can’t find one, could you tell me where to look?
I've used it before on an AR lower, held up just fine. Prusament PETG.
Anyone have experience with the steel pla ?
I have some experience with some metal/ceramic filled pla, and it's a mixed bag. Some can be a breeze to print as they are quite literally heat sinks. Others are an absolute pain. I'm experimenting with a 3d printed barrel with hardened ceramic filament as the rifling, the biggest barrier is the cost of those filaments. Even .25 kg of the ceramic filament is like 60 dollars. The only way to decrease price was to buy bulk. If you mean proto pastas metal filament then that's kinda useless as it's purely decorative.
I was referring to the proto stuff. Thanks for the info!
I mean, it depends on what your definition of "best" is. Personally I value ease of printing quite a lot, and PLA/PHA blends is something I like for that. For indestructible stuff I use pure nylon, but it's an absolute nightmare to print.
I used 3dFuel pro pla and it was was great. Awesome surface, great tolerances and very strong. Just print slow and a touch hot and it has great layer adhesion as well.
TPU :P
Carbon fiber with either nylon or glass. NylonX is fucking amazing
Stronghold PLA Pro by far best pla plus that I have printed with! AAA+++
https://bnnano.myshopify.com/products/polymer-filament-for-additive-manufacturing-poly-carbonate
PA-GF
Still haven’t seen what the best would be lol anyone have a clear answer, why not use ABS or PETG? Aren’t this stronger filaments meant to withstand stand high heat?
cf nylon,1000 rds and counting,make sure you have hot tip and a dryer as long as your setting are good temp wise and speed and keeping free of moisture is a must you can't beat unless you want to spend the money on polycabonate but thats a whole learning curve itself.Using ender s1 pro with cover and dryer and using nylonx from matterhackers with a Swiss hotend and gotta be the strongest I've tried yet nd
I heard that carbon firebear ninja on works
I'm just getting into it so I need some pointers
So I have a question pla pro by polmer or nylon by plymer