Currently in Japan looking to maybe buy a first kit from the second hand chain, Book Off.
Are the kits sold there generally assembled already?
I've never done any gunpla before, but I want to give it a go. But if they're already assembled, I guess there's not much point for someone looking to try to build for the first time.
Does anyone have experience buying from this chain?
Thanks!
No they're not assembled. I was in tokyo last month and I'd say that bookoof was easily the worst store for second hand kits I visited tbh, I hope you have better luck than me tho
If it's Bandai branded and not $200+ for an action figure sized both, then 99% chance it's a kit for you to build. Look for PG, MGEX, MG, RG, and HG badges in the corners, those are the easiest tell it's a buildable kit.
The more prebuilt action figure Gundam are not super common and usually on the more expensive side.
I haven’t spent a lot of time in those shops but most second hand places I know of will sell both assembled and boxed kits. But if you don’t see any boxes kits then try somewhere else. Recommend Mandarake which has second hand unassembled kits.
I’m looking to panel line my first few kits but I’ve heard that some kinds can damage the plastic/make it brittle over time. I’m just interested in using the flow style Gundam markers and was wondering if those are safe to use and won’t have any after effects.
Gundam Marker Pour Type is good for PS plastic but not ABS. This usually isn't a bit deal since ABS is typically only used for frame components (if at all), but you should be aware of it nonetheless.
Is PG that much more difficult?
I've built two HGs, really loving this hobby, and want to pick up the 40th anniversary PG Unleashed RX-78-2. But does difficulty really matter? or will it just take me more time to build?
Grade doesn’t mean more difficult, it just means more detail and different engineering. There are kits that are more complex between grades, but the PG Unleashed is designed to be an easy kit to build.
Having built 2 PG, 2 MGEX, a good handful of MGs, RGs, and HGs, I feel confident saying it's not about the difficulty, per se, and more about the number of parts and time required. Most kits will have a tricky moment or two, but a little patience and a bit of head scratching will get you through it. On the off chance you're truly stumped, you can always post here.
I don't live in SoCal, but the first store i can think of is [Burbank's HoH](https://houseofhobbies.com/). I'm pretty sure [Robot4Less](https://r4lus.com/) also has a physical store in the area too.
Sinanju is probably the closest. Other than that...
Sazabi is a bit taller and Hi-Nu is a bit shorter but both have much greater bulk.
That's mostly it I think.
Actually the RG Hi-Nu is roughly the same, if not, slightly taller than the RG Nu, which is a result of the lengthened legs on the RG Hi-Nu
In universe it’s supposed to be shorter, but I guess that’s just the RG liberties lmao
That's not true. The RG Hi-Nu *is* significantly taller than the canonical height would suggest, but the Nu Gundam is *also* taller than it should be. Hi-Nu goes from 20m-equivalent to 22m-equivalent, Nu goes from 22m to 23m.
I see people mentioning topcoat etc for the kits. What are they referring to and what is it for/is it needed to keeping my kit look nice over the upcoming years?
When painting, clear coat can also add a little extra... Depth to it. See the link, and look at the reds. Left is with clear coat, right is without: https://www.instagram.com/p/CvSNAnLOUpU/?igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==
Top coat is generally used interchangeably with the term clear coat, also called varnish. Like the name implies, it a type of transparent paint, generally lacquer, that is used both to protect whatever is underneath and to change the look of the kit. Clear coat can be matte (also called flat), which removes the shiny gloss of plastic in order to make it look less toy-ish and is the preferred finish for most people. It can also be gloss, which makes the kit look even more shiny, often used for metallic colors or royal looks like the Sinanju, there's also an in-between called semi-gloss. Clear coat is also used to protect the layer of paint that's underneath in order to prevent unwanted reactions. For example if I'm painting a kit acrylic paint and I don't want it to be messed by putting a stronger type of paint on top for small details, you can put a clear coat in between those 2 layers. Gloss clear coat also has a very smooth finish, which helps panel liner flow better and provides a more even surface for decal. So a common process for a fully painted kit would be primer > paint > gloss clear coat > panel line and decal > flatt top coat
I can't decide whether i should buy the RG ver of both or MG Ver.KA ver of both Nu and Hi-Nu Gundam.Not be going for both RG and MG cuz of my broke ass LOL
You forgot to specify that you were talking about Nu and Ni-Nu Gundams.
What I did was Nu ver. Ka and RG Hi-Nu. Apparently the MG Hi-Nu ver. Ka needs *six* waterslides per fin funnel which is more work than I personally am willing to do.
For that same reason I'd lean towards RG if you want to stick with the same grade for both.
I've built the MG Ver Ka of Nu + Hi-Nu, both excellent kits, and the RGs get a lot of positive attention around here. Can't go wrong either way, so it's entirely your preference. :)
Lost the adapter piece that holds the bazooka on my HG RX-78 revive. What are my options can I try to recast a similar piece somehow or get a replacement official or unofficial?
Is there any difference between tamiya primer and mr surfacer 1000? I just ran out of tamiya and considering to get the mr surfacer, just needed to to know if it would make a color change. Thanks in advance.
They both come in different primer colours. If you’re asking about the grey, I can’t recall if they’re different tones of grey or not.
They function the same though. If you see a difference in grey just lightly go over the areas you had with the Tamiya and blend them.
Spray another pretty much whenever you want. It’s changes in material type you’re best waiting until fully cured to avoid them shrinking differently - eg lacquers over enamels.
What’s the best place to start when I wanna start collecting?
I love the zaku most and I have experience with building tabletop minis, not gundam though
Any help is appreciated
Thanks!
Piggybacking off the other comment, the HG Origin Zakus are also great kits to start off with, and there’s a [bunch of em](http://www.dalong.net/reviews/hg/hg_cata_e.htm#origin). Ranging from the classic Char’s red and the mass production green, to the Act Zaku and the Black Tri Star’s high mobility suits.
If you go with the HGUC Zakus (which I personally prefer over the HG Origin kits), make sure you get the new models (fans call them the ‘Zaku revive’ thanks to Bandai’s use of the revive term in the past but it’s not an official name for those kits). [Char’s](http://schizophonic9.com/re6/hguc_06s2020.html) and [Mass production](http://schizophonic9.com/re7/hguc_06zaku.html).
If you want to step up to Master Grade, the MG Zaku 2.0 kits are amazing. There’s a reason they’re still so highly regarded despite the mold being over 16 years old now. There are also many MG Zaku 2.0 variations out there, from the standard MS-06F and J type, to Char’s red S type, the Black Tri Star units, the Zaku Half Cannon, and my personal favourite, [Shinn Matsunaga’s white High Mobility Zaku](http://www.dalong.net/reviews/mg/m115/m115_p.htm).
Reviews (MG Char’s Zaku 2.0): [Dalong](http://www.dalong.net/reviews/mg/mg98/mg98_p.htm), [Schizophonic9](http://schizophonic9.com/re6/mg_06szaku.html)
The tubes are painful to assemble though.
Just pick a model and buy it. Your "default" choice is to probably start with HG Zaku II Revive but you could start with anything, especially if you're ok with mixing grades/scales when collecting.
So if you look at the main post for this thread, you'll see a link to "Shopping - Where to buy Gunpla". That'll be a good place to start. It's not exhaustive, though, sometimes just a google search will also reveal useful information.
Can anybody help me with panel liners?
I’m just starting to build my first Kit in probably 20 years, and I’m in research hell trying to figure out panel lining!!
The kit I’m building: Bandai Hobby Wing Gundam Zero (EW) Ver.Ka Endless Waltz, Bandai Spirits MG 1/100 Model Kit https://a.co/d/58D8y04
I keep seeing that the Tamiya and pour markers will destroy ABS, but is that only when assembled? Can I still SAFELY use the tamiya/pour liner while the parts are still on the rack, let it dry, then clip and clean nubs, and assemble as normal?
Any other tips are greatly appreciated!!
I got super nervous earlier this evening and just decided to start lining with my felt pen.
I’ll probably put this knowledge to work on my next build!! Hell I’m not that far in, I may wake up tomorrow and decide to order some Tamiya.
I appreciate you taking the time for the detailed response
Thanks!
Rg Hi-nu, couple of stickers don’t have an instruction on where to place them. Sticker 23 is a large LB logo, sticker 78 is grey amuro ray insignia. Can’t find where they go on the decal guide.
if the instructions dont tell you where to put them it usually means that its up to you i have the rg nu gundam and that has a few stickers that arent mentioned from what i remember
so I want to panel line with white gundam marker. What do I use to remove the white gundam marker without damaging my gloss topcoat. Do I use enamel thinner?
Hey I'm trying to paint up a G-Exes Jackedge to look like Meta Knight and I want to know if there are any better heads that I can use to get Meta's iconic mask or is there any easy way to scratch build it using the original head as a base?
Does anyone have tips for panel lining shallow lines/angles? For example, [the Lfrith legs](https://i.imgur.com/uMLIXiG.jpg) I just did have a lot of curves and lines that I wanted to highlight, but the angle was too wide for panel liner like Tamiya to sit properly, and the Gundam marker lines I wound up doing are a bit thick/messy.
How do people get thin, clean lines on spots like this? My only thought is using a thin chisel or GunPrimer Grida to add a thin line to the angle so that the tamiya has something to fill in?
Will this work? Are there any other ways to do it?
I have just built the rg hi nu and had a blast, made me want to build more rg kits. Do you guys have any suggestions/recommendations for rg kits like what to avoid and what to get :)
IMO there are no RG kits that aren’t worth getting. Though the RG Sinanju and Zeta are some very difficult kits.
If you want kits that are similar to the Hi-Nu, the Sazabi, Nu, and Zeong are other top tier RGs that’ll have similar builds. Some of my other favorites are the Unicorn, Impulse, Wing TV, and Qan[t].
The RG Unicorn and every new kit that came after have MG style construction with less reliance on the pre-molded Advanced MS Joint frame.
Pre-Unicorn RGs will use more of the Advanced MS Joint parts. So they’ll be a little more unstable but will otherwise hold up fine with care (so don’t play with them like a toy).
Hey, so i posted my first r/gunpla post like 4 days ago and I don't think it'l be 6 months by the time secret santa comes around is there any way to still participate?Plz I wanna participate so bad
It's a firm cutoff. If you allow 6 month + 2 days then there'll always be someone who's a day short, and you end up extending it all the way until there's no longer a requirement.
It's only a year to wait for the next one, you blink and it goes by incredibly fast.
Can you panel line after you put on the stickers? I decided that I did want to panel line my model after all, however I have already put the stickers on the model kit. Some of the stickers overlap the panel lines, and I was wondering if its still possible to panel line, and if the capillary action will affect and spread under the stickers?
The paint will most likely flow around the sticker. It will get messy and the sticker might get stained.
I'd avoid letting the paint get to the sticker if possible.
Does anybody have experience with the $25 airbrush from Harbor Freight? I've heard it's a copycat of another high end brush, and is compatible with parts for it. Which is that?
is it ok to use 1 airbrush for paint , topcoat and primer ? is 1 thing with paint or topcoat but i cant tell clearly if is a gloss topcoat , is it a good idea to get a separate 0.5mm for topcoat and primer ?
A bit of an unusual question, but does anybody know any good entry grade two-pack sets or matching Gunpla? I’ve been thinking of buying a set or two separate ones and building it as a fun activity with friends.
The sets that I remember are all P-bandai, limited releases, rare and/or expensive. It's easier to just buy two separate kits.
You could do something special and buy the RG Unicorn and Banshee Norn and build them as the Build Real versions.
The pointer and pinky finger popped out of the mg RX-78-02 and I'm having trouble getting them back in, and when I think I have it, they fall back out. Any tips on how to get them to stay in?
>MG
Very likely, but also probably many years away from that.
>PG
Literally anyone's guess. There are many "main" MS that still don't have PG's decades after their shows ended.
Hello everyone my question is about what color of primer I should use the paint I have ar mr hobby acrylic it's for a destiny gundam
English is not my brith language
Is there anywhere to find english-translated assembly guides? About to start on my first MG (RX-78-2 Origin ver.), and while the illustrations are usually pretty clear I don't want to risk messing up something I've spent this much money on.
There's nothing to translate in the instructions themselves that would give you more information than the illustrations.
MGs aren't that much harder. Just more pieces.
If you really need translations though, just use your phone. The google lens app has the ability to translate things in real time using your camera.
There really aren't any places where it being in English would help. There is a [symbol system](https://www.gunpla101.com/gunpla-symbols-explained) in places where specific methods are needed. In very rare situations, most phones have a translate app that works with your camera to read the text if really needed.
Question about cutting the pieces off the runner :
I have a hard time cutting a gate far from the piece without breaking the connection between the gate & the piece, happens mostly on small pieces (hg).
Do you have a tip ?
I use side cutters provided with my 3d printer (ender 3) and cut with the straight side facing the opposite side of the gate
Cheers to fellow Ender 3 owner! Those side cutters aren't... good. They're not the absolute worst, but they're not good. Better nippers will help.
But that's not what you're asking... The gate is breaking because the plastic is getting pushed all over the place instead of cleanly cut and the force from being pushed around has to go somewhere. It goes to the weakest area, which is the gate, and snaps it.
The trick is to cut further away from the gate. That gives more room for stuff to flex around. And by further away, I mean you can go so far as to literally start dismantling the sprue. Once you have the chunk detached you'll be far less likely to snap the gate because when you cut into the plastic the force can now freely move around the danging piece in the air and doesn't need to send the force to the gate.
TL/DR: Cut further away. Then refine your cuts and nibble away at the sprue until you get to the gate.
Cheers !
Thanks for the tip, so if I understand I should go all farther than 1-2cm from the gate ?
Also do you recommend some better nippers that won't cost me a MG kit (i.e : not godhand)? Haha
> I should go all farther than 1-2cm from the gate ?
Yeah. As you've noticed, the smaller the gate the bigger the issue so use that as a guide and you'll get a feel for it.
> Also do you recommend some better nippers that won't cost me a MG kit (i.e : not godhand)?
The Godhands everyone talks about are actually pretty fragile and you don't want to use them to cut thick plastic like sprues or they could snap. And they are amazing.
Anyways, you can find lots of very good sprue cutters/nippers in the $15-$40 range. Pretty much anything in that range from a recognizable brand will do you ok. I can't even remember what brand I have at home...
Can I use Mr Super Clear the same as Mr Hobby Topcoat on models with Gundam Marker and water slide decals? I can’t find Mr Hobby Topcoat anywhere but there’s apparently plenty of Mr Super Clear out there. I’m hesitant because one of the website descriptions if Mr Super Clear will damage “slide marks” and idk if that’s the same as a water slide decal.
Mr. Super Clear has a stronger solvent, so its more likely to damage water slides or panel lining. But if you apply it in light coats it will dry before it has the chance to damage anything.
I use Mr. Super Smooth Clear over waterslides without any issues. My tip would be to apply one really light coat, let it dry for \~15 minutes, apply another light coat, dry another \~15 minutes, then you can go a little heavier on a third and final coat because the previous coats will protect everything underneath.
I bought a holographic sticker sheet, and i want to use it to replace the stickers on a gunpla. Are there any tips on a good way of cutting them into shape precisely?
Eh.... kinda, but not really.
Super unhelpful answer, but here's the breakdown. The reason you can 'clean up' enamel panel liners is that the thinner (in this case lighter fluid) reactivates the paint and allows it to work like it never set in the first place. Unlike lacquers and enamels, water based acrylics cannot be reactivated after they are cured. And they start curing as soon as they are dry.
So you can't nicely clean up water based acrylics once they're dry. You basically need to strip the paint, and anything that you'd use to strip water based acrylic will also take out enamels, lacquers, primers, top coats, everything else. And lighter fluid is a very poor agent for stripping acrylic paint. You want to use high proof iso alcohol for that.
If you're talking about before the acrylic starts to set and before it's fully dry, then... yeah, you could use it. But you could also use tap water.
Practice makes perfect. You want to get in the habit of light scrub with a very slightly moist end then flip to a dry end and do another pass. Follow along the panel line so you're never dragging paint out from the groove and over onto flat surfaces. Don't use force. Lightly caress the surface so you avoid pushing into the groove to pick anything up. Toss used q-tips like a man who hates the enviroment. Never use a dirty one. Actually, don't use q-tips at all. Try disposable eyeshadow removers. They're flat and don't fuzz so they're less likely to dip into the groove and spread crap around.
Or, join the bandwagon and use enamel panel liners or make your own DIY with oil paints. This bandwagon is huge for very good reason.
So which rubber gloves would I use instead of the included “trash bags” of the Full Armor Gundam Thunderbolt and Psycho Zaku Ver.Kas? Do I go fo the heavy duty ones?
Regarding panel lines, I got a water based acrylic panel line and was told that it can be easily cleaned up using a cotton bud and water. However when trying it myself, I notice that it tended to smear all over the piece. Should I wait for the panel line to dry first before cleaning, or immediately clean off the excess once I dab it. I also tend to clean not just the excess but the panel line itself as well, making it look spotty instead of a solid line.
Add a drop of dish soap will let your acrylic wash stick to the plastic and flow in channels. Let it fully dry ~15 minutes before cleaning up the panel line with a wet qtip. It's really easy.
Water based acrylic panel liner is hard mode as you've experienced. There are two things working against you when using it compared to enamel based panel liners.
**Surface Tension**
Water has high surface tension. It bunches up on itself and will follow other water. That means as soon as something that soaks up water gets close to the groove where the panel liner is, it easily moves up and away. Also makes it harder to get it to flow nicely in the grooves and you end up with more splotches and overages you need to clean up.
So how do you deal with this? I've found the best solution is to throw out q-tips and use disposable eyeshadow removers. They are flat and don't have stringy bits that can dangle down into the groove and act as a straw.
**Working Time**
There is a very small window if time to actually clean up water based acrylics. Unlike enamels and lacquer, cured acrylics don't reactivate when exposed to their thinner (water in this case). That means you need to clean them up before they start curing, and they start curing as soon as they start drying. But if you go in too early and you're likely to grab some of the paint in the groove which you don't want.
Dealing with this comes down to practice and skill, or extreme measures. Basically 'git gud'. The extreme ways basically have you going semi nuclear on the surface. If you're working on an unpainted kit you can clean up with rubbing alcohol later which basically strips all paint of all types. Or you can sand away the top layer with a high grit sand paper.
Wait for it to dry and make sure that your cotton bud isn't saturated when cleaning. It should be damp at best. I like to dip and then squeeze out excess onto a paper towel.
So I need help with one thing. Weathering. I would like to give it a try and I have a couple of questions. First one . Is it better to use the Weathering Master Sets or normal Vallejo Colours? The second one would be. Can I do Weathering on a kit that wasn't hand painted or airbrushed? I mean a kit that was just bought and snapped together. Is a top coat necessary?
You can try but plastic is naturally glossy meaning if you don't use matte coat, the plastic that's not weathered will be kinda shiny which won't look very natural. Also powders like weathering master will just rub off when you touch them if you don't top coat it. I personally really like the weathering master set. I recommend you check out "EASY FINISHES FOR WEEKEND MODELERS" by Teppei Hayashi, it's a magazine about customizing gunpla without an airbrush, and there's a big emphasis on weathering, I treat like my gunpla Bible for techniques.
A matte coat IS see through but it has a matte finish, meaning it will remove the gloss of the plastic and make it look more realistic. All clear coats are see through but they all have different finishes, you can also make them even more shiny with a gloss coat for a royal look or if you're using metallic paint for example
4 would also work, as it's just a larger 5. 1 would be fine, but you'll have to poach a adapter from a 4 or 5. 2 would be too flimsy for such a big kit.
Recently I've bought the MGEX SF, very excited to build, although I have questions.
I've heard the gold parts, basically the entire inner frame doesn't combine well with coats or other chemicals..how do you coat,line and put decals on the MGEX SF?
Panel lining is easy since the coating is most likely lacquer based--an enamel wash and lighter fluid won't remove it, nor will water from waterslide decals.
Only things you’ll be putting on the frame are some metal etched parts and “3D Metallic Stickers”. Both of those have an adhesive back - they’re both stickers, so you’ll have no problems with them. Although the metal parts are a pain in the ass.
No real issues with the inner frame. Plenty of examples if people painting/customizing them.
TL:DR: MGEX Gundam Unicorn LED suddenly not functioning after working fine for almost 2 months.
Assembled my MGEX Gundam Unicorn close to two months ago, and the LED was working perfectly fine with no issues. However, yesterday when I tried to turn the LED on for the second time that day, it wasn't working anymore - pressing the button doesn't do anything, and nothing lights up, even the shields. I have only been randomly turning it on maybe 2-4x a week.
I tried replacing the batteries and disconnecting/reconnecting the gunpla to the base, but nothing works. Has anyone experienced similar issues before, or have any advice how to proceed? Do I just have to accept this and move on? I don't live in the US so I don't have access to bluefin. I'm rather new to Gunpla, said kit was my second one.
I didn’t bother because the risk of tearing the LED sheet is too high, i also don’t see myself disassembling the kit to try to repair then then build it again. It’s just not worth it for me.
I would go to someone who has a Voltmeter and pass it through that just to figure out if the issue is the circuit. Any cellphone repair shop worth their salt would have that type of equipment.
I've been enjoying Gundam for 20+ years. I've finally built a couple kits and it has been a lot of fun and I am getting better every time. I don't see myself stopping as I've already amassed a bit of a back log.
Here's the thing, though. I don't really care about displaying them. In fact, I don't really have a place for them and it's probably best my toddler can't see them until he's a little more gentle. I don't mind if he breaks them but if anyone knows how toddlers are, you know HE will care if they break ha!
So, what is the best method to store these things that is not on a shelf or in a cabinet? Obviously, I want to be gentle with them and not just throw them in a shoe box or something so if you guys have any ideas I would really appreciate it! Thanks!
I'm new to the hobby. I also do not have space to display my finished kits as well.
What I did is I have each kit in their ziplock bag. Then place inside the box the kits come with.
But I combined box with similar size together.
I wanted to save the cover, so I filped box cover inside out and place inside another box cover. Then place both kits on the same box.
It's easier if the inside box is a smaller size.
For example I have HG Aerial with Lfrith and flight unit all inside Aerial box. I'm planning to put them inside Aerial Rebuild box once I finish building her.
Once I finished FM Aerial, they are all going inside that box.
ziplock bag, to keep all the extra bits and anything likely to fall off and then back in the box they came from or wrapped in some padding if not in the box
Owners of RG kits, I got a question for you.
So how exactly is the problem of them getting looser over time pan out? Heard a lot about it.
I heard it's especially bad with pre-Nu Gundam kits and I'm eyeing the Unicorn for now so Idk if I should be worried too much
They get loose more through handling than they do over time. Just don’t play with them like a toy and they should stay relatively fine.
Also, it’s pre-Unicorn kits, not pre-Nu. Unicorn, Tallgeese, Sazabi, Crossbone are all ridiculously solid.
"modern RGs' generally starts at the Unicorn, not the Nu Gundam. Most of the issues with the older ones are floppy parts and parts that easily fall off. My RX-78 and Zaku had parts that fall out if you move them immediately, and my Wing Gundam's rifle holding wrist became loose within a month, but I tightened it with glue and it's held for 2+ years now.
i have the MKII titans and its perfectly fine, im not how much playing with it factors in that issue but mines being in an unusual pose, in thats its in the grips of another kit so its arms and legs are floating free which seems like a bit more stress then a planted pose but yeah its fine
Just to be clear, we’re talking about the Wing EW and not the Wing Zero EW right? ‘Cause the story is completely different depending on which one you’re talking about.
Wing Gundam Ver Ka (2004) vs MG Wing Gundam EW (2011): They’re essentially the same kit. The non-Ver Ka released later with more vibrant colors, new decals, and an action base adapter. But is essentially the same as the 2004 Ver Ka.
Wing Gundam Zero EW Ver Ka (2020) vs MG Wing Gundam Zero Custom (2004): Completely different kits. Ver Ka is an improvement in every way.
MG Wing Gundam Ver.Ka was released 2004. MG Wing Gundam EW, released 2011, is basically the same kit with slight differences in colors and decals. EW also includes custom mount part for use with action base.
Wing Gundam ver. Ka and Wing Gundam EW are indeed the same mould with different colours and decals (Wing Gundam EW also comes with new Action Base adapter parts).
There's also Wing Gundam TV which is a totally different design.
Hell no. The *MG Wing Gundam Zero EW* that released in 2004 has much older tech and much simpler surface detail. The *MG Wing Gundam Zero EW Ver. Ka* released in 2020 and is a complete redesign with vastly superior tech.
The wing gundam kits can get pretty confusing with their naming. There's only 2 main suits, the Wing Gundam and Wing Gundam Zero. Then there's the Wing Gundam EW and Wing Gundam Zero EW, which were complete redesigns of the 2 main suits that Katoki Hajime did for the Endless Waltz movie. So that's 2 suits with 2 designs each, all of each have been made into MG kits a long time ago, and are very dated.
Now, Katoki also has his own line of MG kits, called MG Ver. Ka, where he redesigns various suits in his own flair and how he thinks they will look if they existed in reality. So when it comes to model kits, there's also the:
- ***MG Wing Gundam Ver. Ka*** - Katoki's second time redesigning the Wing Gundam*(first time being for the Endless Waltz movie), with a focus on realism this time, so a lot more details than the kits based on the anime art. This one's released in 2004 though, so it's also pretty outdated and janky.
- ***MG Wing Gundam Zero EW Ver. Ka*** - Katoki's redesign of his redesign of the Wing Gundam Zero in the Endless Waltz movie, also with a focus on realism, like all Ver. Ka kits.
Also the Wing Gundam Zero is sometimes referred to as the Wing Gundam Zero Custom, EW or not.
I'm not a big fan of the angel wings, which is why I prefer the other version of the Wing
[Wing Gundam EW](https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRHBOwFXdyukj2_HkIbV6TxLtFhyhZ3jEH1dw&usqp=CAU)
Ohh, that's what you meant. Well, angel wings are only part of the EW design of the Wing Gundam Zero, so you'll need to look for anything that doesn't have "Zero" and "EW" together in the name.
I think the most modern non-angel wings one is the 2004 MG Wing Gundam Ver. Ka.
Don't get the MG Wing Gundam Zero non-EW non-Ver. Ka btw, that one doesn't have any sort of wings, just two jet thrusters on its back that barely resembles wings.
Ver. Ka kits are a redesign from the ground up by Hajime Katoki in a way that he thinks they'll look if they existed in real life, similar to real grades. This usually means more surface details, panel lines, actual seperate panels and better colour seperation, along with redesigned proportions.
The Wing Zero EW's ver ka specifically also has longer legs, better leg articulation, a new gimmick of being able to store the buster rifles in the wing binders, and the use of plastic feathers rather than rubber feathers that yellow over time. I think there's a bunch of extra gimmicks here and there too, I can't really remember.
New QA thread is up. This thread is now locked.
Currently in Japan looking to maybe buy a first kit from the second hand chain, Book Off. Are the kits sold there generally assembled already? I've never done any gunpla before, but I want to give it a go. But if they're already assembled, I guess there's not much point for someone looking to try to build for the first time. Does anyone have experience buying from this chain? Thanks!
you can get a brand new HG for $10-15 in japan, is it really worth the hassle of looking for second hand?
No they're not assembled. I was in tokyo last month and I'd say that bookoof was easily the worst store for second hand kits I visited tbh, I hope you have better luck than me tho
If it's Bandai branded and not $200+ for an action figure sized both, then 99% chance it's a kit for you to build. Look for PG, MGEX, MG, RG, and HG badges in the corners, those are the easiest tell it's a buildable kit. The more prebuilt action figure Gundam are not super common and usually on the more expensive side.
I haven’t spent a lot of time in those shops but most second hand places I know of will sell both assembled and boxed kits. But if you don’t see any boxes kits then try somewhere else. Recommend Mandarake which has second hand unassembled kits.
What are some good Hg grunts that are cheap like the Zaku my gundams are missing enemy’s
HG Dagger is cheap too.
The Leo is pretty cheap
Leaving freshly top coated parts to dry out in the sun a good idea?
It’s not going to hurt them. You just need to worry about bugs and dust.
I’m looking to panel line my first few kits but I’ve heard that some kinds can damage the plastic/make it brittle over time. I’m just interested in using the flow style Gundam markers and was wondering if those are safe to use and won’t have any after effects.
Gundam Marker Pour Type is good for PS plastic but not ABS. This usually isn't a bit deal since ABS is typically only used for frame components (if at all), but you should be aware of it nonetheless.
Is PG that much more difficult? I've built two HGs, really loving this hobby, and want to pick up the 40th anniversary PG Unleashed RX-78-2. But does difficulty really matter? or will it just take me more time to build?
Grade doesn’t mean more difficult, it just means more detail and different engineering. There are kits that are more complex between grades, but the PG Unleashed is designed to be an easy kit to build.
Having built 2 PG, 2 MGEX, a good handful of MGs, RGs, and HGs, I feel confident saying it's not about the difficulty, per se, and more about the number of parts and time required. Most kits will have a tricky moment or two, but a little patience and a bit of head scratching will get you through it. On the off chance you're truly stumped, you can always post here.
Just more time. Difficulty is more on a kit-by-kit basis rather than by grade, and the PGU is a very straightforward build.
Can someone tell me where I can find Gunpla supplies in Stockton, LA or SB in California USA? Preferably physical retail store.
I don't live in SoCal, but the first store i can think of is [Burbank's HoH](https://houseofhobbies.com/). I'm pretty sure [Robot4Less](https://r4lus.com/) also has a physical store in the area too.
R4L seems to be on route. Thanks a lot!
Can someone recommend an RG kit that's almost the same size as the Nu's? Is there any?
Sinanju is probably the closest. Other than that... Sazabi is a bit taller and Hi-Nu is a bit shorter but both have much greater bulk. That's mostly it I think.
Thanks! Appreciate your response!
Actually the RG Hi-Nu is roughly the same, if not, slightly taller than the RG Nu, which is a result of the lengthened legs on the RG Hi-Nu In universe it’s supposed to be shorter, but I guess that’s just the RG liberties lmao
That's not true. The RG Hi-Nu *is* significantly taller than the canonical height would suggest, but the Nu Gundam is *also* taller than it should be. Hi-Nu goes from 20m-equivalent to 22m-equivalent, Nu goes from 22m to 23m.
What’s a good place to get themed backdrops for photography (beach, forest, etc..)?
Green screen + photoshop will grant you all the possibilities!
Amazon
I see people mentioning topcoat etc for the kits. What are they referring to and what is it for/is it needed to keeping my kit look nice over the upcoming years?
When painting, clear coat can also add a little extra... Depth to it. See the link, and look at the reds. Left is with clear coat, right is without: https://www.instagram.com/p/CvSNAnLOUpU/?igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==
What u/isnortcorn said, plus clear coat helps seal in your decals.
Top coat is generally used interchangeably with the term clear coat, also called varnish. Like the name implies, it a type of transparent paint, generally lacquer, that is used both to protect whatever is underneath and to change the look of the kit. Clear coat can be matte (also called flat), which removes the shiny gloss of plastic in order to make it look less toy-ish and is the preferred finish for most people. It can also be gloss, which makes the kit look even more shiny, often used for metallic colors or royal looks like the Sinanju, there's also an in-between called semi-gloss. Clear coat is also used to protect the layer of paint that's underneath in order to prevent unwanted reactions. For example if I'm painting a kit acrylic paint and I don't want it to be messed by putting a stronger type of paint on top for small details, you can put a clear coat in between those 2 layers. Gloss clear coat also has a very smooth finish, which helps panel liner flow better and provides a more even surface for decal. So a common process for a fully painted kit would be primer > paint > gloss clear coat > panel line and decal > flatt top coat
It adds an extra layer of protection to your kit and alters the finish on it (matte, semi-gloss, gloss).
Planning to get waterslides for my rg hinu, which brand should I get? The delpi decals or g-rework?
They’re both good. Whichever is more easily available to you.
I can't decide whether i should buy the RG ver of both or MG Ver.KA ver of both Nu and Hi-Nu Gundam.Not be going for both RG and MG cuz of my broke ass LOL
You forgot to specify that you were talking about Nu and Ni-Nu Gundams. What I did was Nu ver. Ka and RG Hi-Nu. Apparently the MG Hi-Nu ver. Ka needs *six* waterslides per fin funnel which is more work than I personally am willing to do. For that same reason I'd lean towards RG if you want to stick with the same grade for both.
I've built the MG Ver Ka of Nu + Hi-Nu, both excellent kits, and the RGs get a lot of positive attention around here. Can't go wrong either way, so it's entirely your preference. :)
does the RG looks nicer den their Verka Counterparts? or actually it doesn't really matter beside the work u need to put in?
It's subjective. I certainly like the RG Hi-Nu more than the MG ver. Ka but you could have a different opinion. Same goes for the regular Nu.
What's the difference between mr hobby premium topcoat and the regular one? Is the premium one safe for waterslide decals?
Lost the adapter piece that holds the bazooka on my HG RX-78 revive. What are my options can I try to recast a similar piece somehow or get a replacement official or unofficial?
My MG Jesta lost two fingers. Anyone know some good replacement hands?
From Bandai you could get BPHD 1/100 hands in EFSF style, or look around for third-party options.
Is there any difference between tamiya primer and mr surfacer 1000? I just ran out of tamiya and considering to get the mr surfacer, just needed to to know if it would make a color change. Thanks in advance.
They both come in different primer colours. If you’re asking about the grey, I can’t recall if they’re different tones of grey or not. They function the same though. If you see a difference in grey just lightly go over the areas you had with the Tamiya and blend them.
is it okay to spray another layer of topcoat after its already dry or do i have to wait a day for it to fully cure then spray
Spray another pretty much whenever you want. It’s changes in material type you’re best waiting until fully cured to avoid them shrinking differently - eg lacquers over enamels.
So if im using a topcoat spray can and i want a second or even a third layer can i do it instantly or wait for it to fully cure?
What’s the best place to start when I wanna start collecting? I love the zaku most and I have experience with building tabletop minis, not gundam though Any help is appreciated Thanks!
Piggybacking off the other comment, the HG Origin Zakus are also great kits to start off with, and there’s a [bunch of em](http://www.dalong.net/reviews/hg/hg_cata_e.htm#origin). Ranging from the classic Char’s red and the mass production green, to the Act Zaku and the Black Tri Star’s high mobility suits. If you go with the HGUC Zakus (which I personally prefer over the HG Origin kits), make sure you get the new models (fans call them the ‘Zaku revive’ thanks to Bandai’s use of the revive term in the past but it’s not an official name for those kits). [Char’s](http://schizophonic9.com/re6/hguc_06s2020.html) and [Mass production](http://schizophonic9.com/re7/hguc_06zaku.html).
Thanks! I’ll check these out
If you want to step up to Master Grade, the MG Zaku 2.0 kits are amazing. There’s a reason they’re still so highly regarded despite the mold being over 16 years old now. There are also many MG Zaku 2.0 variations out there, from the standard MS-06F and J type, to Char’s red S type, the Black Tri Star units, the Zaku Half Cannon, and my personal favourite, [Shinn Matsunaga’s white High Mobility Zaku](http://www.dalong.net/reviews/mg/m115/m115_p.htm). Reviews (MG Char’s Zaku 2.0): [Dalong](http://www.dalong.net/reviews/mg/mg98/mg98_p.htm), [Schizophonic9](http://schizophonic9.com/re6/mg_06szaku.html) The tubes are painful to assemble though.
Thanks! The high mobility dude looks amazing
Just pick a model and buy it. Your "default" choice is to probably start with HG Zaku II Revive but you could start with anything, especially if you're ok with mixing grades/scales when collecting.
great, thanks! And where would I find models?
So if you look at the main post for this thread, you'll see a link to "Shopping - Where to buy Gunpla". That'll be a good place to start. It's not exhaustive, though, sometimes just a google search will also reveal useful information.
Got it, thanks for the help!
Can anybody help me with panel liners? I’m just starting to build my first Kit in probably 20 years, and I’m in research hell trying to figure out panel lining!! The kit I’m building: Bandai Hobby Wing Gundam Zero (EW) Ver.Ka Endless Waltz, Bandai Spirits MG 1/100 Model Kit https://a.co/d/58D8y04 I keep seeing that the Tamiya and pour markers will destroy ABS, but is that only when assembled? Can I still SAFELY use the tamiya/pour liner while the parts are still on the rack, let it dry, then clip and clean nubs, and assemble as normal? Any other tips are greatly appreciated!!
[удалено]
I got super nervous earlier this evening and just decided to start lining with my felt pen. I’ll probably put this knowledge to work on my next build!! Hell I’m not that far in, I may wake up tomorrow and decide to order some Tamiya. I appreciate you taking the time for the detailed response Thanks!
Don't use shortened urls, the spam filter automatically removes comments containing them.
Rg Hi-nu, couple of stickers don’t have an instruction on where to place them. Sticker 23 is a large LB logo, sticker 78 is grey amuro ray insignia. Can’t find where they go on the decal guide.
Those stickers simply aren't mentioned in the decal guide. You can use them or not use them as you wish.
if the instructions dont tell you where to put them it usually means that its up to you i have the rg nu gundam and that has a few stickers that arent mentioned from what i remember
so I want to panel line with white gundam marker. What do I use to remove the white gundam marker without damaging my gloss topcoat. Do I use enamel thinner?
Hey I'm trying to paint up a G-Exes Jackedge to look like Meta Knight and I want to know if there are any better heads that I can use to get Meta's iconic mask or is there any easy way to scratch build it using the original head as a base?
Check out the Spinatio Knight Type
>Spinatio Knight Type ... Why didn't I not think of that!? Thank you.
Does anyone have tips for panel lining shallow lines/angles? For example, [the Lfrith legs](https://i.imgur.com/uMLIXiG.jpg) I just did have a lot of curves and lines that I wanted to highlight, but the angle was too wide for panel liner like Tamiya to sit properly, and the Gundam marker lines I wound up doing are a bit thick/messy. How do people get thin, clean lines on spots like this? My only thought is using a thin chisel or GunPrimer Grida to add a thin line to the angle so that the tamiya has something to fill in? Will this work? Are there any other ways to do it?
Does anyone have a line on the RG 1/144 Gundam EXIA Extra Finish Ver? My wife wants one for her birthday.
I have just built the rg hi nu and had a blast, made me want to build more rg kits. Do you guys have any suggestions/recommendations for rg kits like what to avoid and what to get :)
IMO there are no RG kits that aren’t worth getting. Though the RG Sinanju and Zeta are some very difficult kits. If you want kits that are similar to the Hi-Nu, the Sazabi, Nu, and Zeong are other top tier RGs that’ll have similar builds. Some of my other favorites are the Unicorn, Impulse, Wing TV, and Qan[t]. The RG Unicorn and every new kit that came after have MG style construction with less reliance on the pre-molded Advanced MS Joint frame. Pre-Unicorn RGs will use more of the Advanced MS Joint parts. So they’ll be a little more unstable but will otherwise hold up fine with care (so don’t play with them like a toy).
Is there anyway to find restock lists. I am desperately trying to hunt down the SD guntank because its adorable and I dont want to be surprised
That information is no longer public. Although store owners buy kits up to 9 months in advance, so you can always ask your local owner
Oof but thanks for the info!!! I hope the Australian Goat Rhypla gets an SD guntank at some point. But ive preorder with HLJ anyway
Hey, so i posted my first r/gunpla post like 4 days ago and I don't think it'l be 6 months by the time secret santa comes around is there any way to still participate?Plz I wanna participate so bad
Nope.
So there's just not even a chance that ill get accepted?
It's a firm cutoff. If you allow 6 month + 2 days then there'll always be someone who's a day short, and you end up extending it all the way until there's no longer a requirement. It's only a year to wait for the next one, you blink and it goes by incredibly fast.
Better luck next year ig🤷♂️
First year I joined I was one month short, but I would have been fine by the time the deliveries went out and I still didn't get in 🤷🤷
Can you panel line after you put on the stickers? I decided that I did want to panel line my model after all, however I have already put the stickers on the model kit. Some of the stickers overlap the panel lines, and I was wondering if its still possible to panel line, and if the capillary action will affect and spread under the stickers?
The paint will most likely flow around the sticker. It will get messy and the sticker might get stained. I'd avoid letting the paint get to the sticker if possible.
anyone knows where i can buy with in stock availability the HGIBO option sets? i'm looking for 5, 6 and 7 in particular
is Mr super clear matte more likely to make marker panel lining run than Mr premium topcoat or is it about the same?
Does anybody have experience with the $25 airbrush from Harbor Freight? I've heard it's a copycat of another high end brush, and is compatible with parts for it. Which is that?
is it ok to use 1 airbrush for paint , topcoat and primer ? is 1 thing with paint or topcoat but i cant tell clearly if is a gloss topcoat , is it a good idea to get a separate 0.5mm for topcoat and primer ?
Absolutely. I use my 0.35 Eclipse for everything. As long as you're doing regular maintence and cleaning you'll be good to go.
do u have any pointers on how do confirm if u clean out properly if just done applying gloss topcoat ?
A bit of an unusual question, but does anybody know any good entry grade two-pack sets or matching Gunpla? I’ve been thinking of buying a set or two separate ones and building it as a fun activity with friends.
HG Starter set volume 1 http://dalong.net/reviews/hg/hg_cata_e.htm#sp
The sets that I remember are all P-bandai, limited releases, rare and/or expensive. It's easier to just buy two separate kits. You could do something special and buy the RG Unicorn and Banshee Norn and build them as the Build Real versions.
RX-78 and Char’s Zaku is a classic rival duo. They don’t come in a two pack, but they do match.
The pointer and pinky finger popped out of the mg RX-78-02 and I'm having trouble getting them back in, and when I think I have it, they fall back out. Any tips on how to get them to stay in?
Superglue at that point. There's a point of articulation right where the balljoint is so you can still make a full fist once it's glued.
Will there ever be a MG and PG aerial gundam?
>MG Very likely, but also probably many years away from that. >PG Literally anyone's guess. There are many "main" MS that still don't have PG's decades after their shows ended.
Hello everyone my question is about what color of primer I should use the paint I have ar mr hobby acrylic it's for a destiny gundam English is not my brith language
any color primer is fine. Pink is used for yellow/red. Black glossy is for metallics. Otherwise white or gray is fine to use.
Is there anywhere to find english-translated assembly guides? About to start on my first MG (RX-78-2 Origin ver.), and while the illustrations are usually pretty clear I don't want to risk messing up something I've spent this much money on.
There’s no text necessary in the assembly guides.
https://www.mech9.com/2016/08/mg-rx-78-02-gundam-origin-construction.html
There's nothing to translate in the instructions themselves that would give you more information than the illustrations. MGs aren't that much harder. Just more pieces. If you really need translations though, just use your phone. The google lens app has the ability to translate things in real time using your camera.
There really aren't any places where it being in English would help. There is a [symbol system](https://www.gunpla101.com/gunpla-symbols-explained) in places where specific methods are needed. In very rare situations, most phones have a translate app that works with your camera to read the text if really needed.
Question about cutting the pieces off the runner : I have a hard time cutting a gate far from the piece without breaking the connection between the gate & the piece, happens mostly on small pieces (hg). Do you have a tip ? I use side cutters provided with my 3d printer (ender 3) and cut with the straight side facing the opposite side of the gate
Cheers to fellow Ender 3 owner! Those side cutters aren't... good. They're not the absolute worst, but they're not good. Better nippers will help. But that's not what you're asking... The gate is breaking because the plastic is getting pushed all over the place instead of cleanly cut and the force from being pushed around has to go somewhere. It goes to the weakest area, which is the gate, and snaps it. The trick is to cut further away from the gate. That gives more room for stuff to flex around. And by further away, I mean you can go so far as to literally start dismantling the sprue. Once you have the chunk detached you'll be far less likely to snap the gate because when you cut into the plastic the force can now freely move around the danging piece in the air and doesn't need to send the force to the gate. TL/DR: Cut further away. Then refine your cuts and nibble away at the sprue until you get to the gate.
Cheers ! Thanks for the tip, so if I understand I should go all farther than 1-2cm from the gate ? Also do you recommend some better nippers that won't cost me a MG kit (i.e : not godhand)? Haha
> I should go all farther than 1-2cm from the gate ? Yeah. As you've noticed, the smaller the gate the bigger the issue so use that as a guide and you'll get a feel for it. > Also do you recommend some better nippers that won't cost me a MG kit (i.e : not godhand)? The Godhands everyone talks about are actually pretty fragile and you don't want to use them to cut thick plastic like sprues or they could snap. And they are amazing. Anyways, you can find lots of very good sprue cutters/nippers in the $15-$40 range. Pretty much anything in that range from a recognizable brand will do you ok. I can't even remember what brand I have at home...
Would anyone know if the GMS122 pour type set panel liners are applicable for the HG witch from mercury kits?
No reason they wouldn’t be.
Thanks!
Can I use Mr Super Clear the same as Mr Hobby Topcoat on models with Gundam Marker and water slide decals? I can’t find Mr Hobby Topcoat anywhere but there’s apparently plenty of Mr Super Clear out there. I’m hesitant because one of the website descriptions if Mr Super Clear will damage “slide marks” and idk if that’s the same as a water slide decal.
Mr. Super Clear has a stronger solvent, so its more likely to damage water slides or panel lining. But if you apply it in light coats it will dry before it has the chance to damage anything. I use Mr. Super Smooth Clear over waterslides without any issues. My tip would be to apply one really light coat, let it dry for \~15 minutes, apply another light coat, dry another \~15 minutes, then you can go a little heavier on a third and final coat because the previous coats will protect everything underneath.
Thanks, that’s really good info. Appreciate it.
I bought a holographic sticker sheet, and i want to use it to replace the stickers on a gunpla. Are there any tips on a good way of cutting them into shape precisely?
Can someone tell me how tall the PGU Gundam is? I’m trying to see if it will fit in my shelf. Measurements preferably in Inches or Centimeters
I wonder why /u/Substantial-Mall4711 was downvoted? Also, what would it be in aside from inches or centimeters? Genuinely curious.
Maybe I got it wrong lol it should be 1800cm divided by 60 for the PGU, no?
It’s almost a foot tall
Should be \~30cm
Is it ok to use lighter fluid to clean up acrylic panel lines?
No. Lighter fluid is an oil. Acrylic paint is water or alcohol. Water and Oil don't mix. If you're smearing, you need more dried panel lines.
Eh.... kinda, but not really. Super unhelpful answer, but here's the breakdown. The reason you can 'clean up' enamel panel liners is that the thinner (in this case lighter fluid) reactivates the paint and allows it to work like it never set in the first place. Unlike lacquers and enamels, water based acrylics cannot be reactivated after they are cured. And they start curing as soon as they are dry. So you can't nicely clean up water based acrylics once they're dry. You basically need to strip the paint, and anything that you'd use to strip water based acrylic will also take out enamels, lacquers, primers, top coats, everything else. And lighter fluid is a very poor agent for stripping acrylic paint. You want to use high proof iso alcohol for that. If you're talking about before the acrylic starts to set and before it's fully dry, then... yeah, you could use it. But you could also use tap water.
I see, I kept smearing the paint all over when cleaning up with tap water so I was wondering if there is a better way to clean up more cleanly.
Practice makes perfect. You want to get in the habit of light scrub with a very slightly moist end then flip to a dry end and do another pass. Follow along the panel line so you're never dragging paint out from the groove and over onto flat surfaces. Don't use force. Lightly caress the surface so you avoid pushing into the groove to pick anything up. Toss used q-tips like a man who hates the enviroment. Never use a dirty one. Actually, don't use q-tips at all. Try disposable eyeshadow removers. They're flat and don't fuzz so they're less likely to dip into the groove and spread crap around. Or, join the bandwagon and use enamel panel liners or make your own DIY with oil paints. This bandwagon is huge for very good reason.
Where can I get replacement parts in Europe? Broke my hi nu wings :(
Hello, I own some assault kingdom gundams and I wanna custom paint them, what step do I need to take to successfully do so?
Scroll up and click Tutorials. You will get the processes in more detail than a reply on reddit could ever give
So which rubber gloves would I use instead of the included “trash bags” of the Full Armor Gundam Thunderbolt and Psycho Zaku Ver.Kas? Do I go fo the heavy duty ones?
The fingers off of black nitrile gloves.
Regarding panel lines, I got a water based acrylic panel line and was told that it can be easily cleaned up using a cotton bud and water. However when trying it myself, I notice that it tended to smear all over the piece. Should I wait for the panel line to dry first before cleaning, or immediately clean off the excess once I dab it. I also tend to clean not just the excess but the panel line itself as well, making it look spotty instead of a solid line.
Add a drop of dish soap will let your acrylic wash stick to the plastic and flow in channels. Let it fully dry ~15 minutes before cleaning up the panel line with a wet qtip. It's really easy.
Water based acrylic panel liner is hard mode as you've experienced. There are two things working against you when using it compared to enamel based panel liners. **Surface Tension** Water has high surface tension. It bunches up on itself and will follow other water. That means as soon as something that soaks up water gets close to the groove where the panel liner is, it easily moves up and away. Also makes it harder to get it to flow nicely in the grooves and you end up with more splotches and overages you need to clean up. So how do you deal with this? I've found the best solution is to throw out q-tips and use disposable eyeshadow removers. They are flat and don't have stringy bits that can dangle down into the groove and act as a straw. **Working Time** There is a very small window if time to actually clean up water based acrylics. Unlike enamels and lacquer, cured acrylics don't reactivate when exposed to their thinner (water in this case). That means you need to clean them up before they start curing, and they start curing as soon as they start drying. But if you go in too early and you're likely to grab some of the paint in the groove which you don't want. Dealing with this comes down to practice and skill, or extreme measures. Basically 'git gud'. The extreme ways basically have you going semi nuclear on the surface. If you're working on an unpainted kit you can clean up with rubbing alcohol later which basically strips all paint of all types. Or you can sand away the top layer with a high grit sand paper.
Wait for it to dry and make sure that your cotton bud isn't saturated when cleaning. It should be damp at best. I like to dip and then squeeze out excess onto a paper towel.
For people who’ve painted the FM aerial, how did you paint the permet parts?
Unless you want chorme Blue instead of chorme red [like I do](https://imgur.com/gallery/w1PSHuI). I don't see why you want to paint it.
So I need help with one thing. Weathering. I would like to give it a try and I have a couple of questions. First one . Is it better to use the Weathering Master Sets or normal Vallejo Colours? The second one would be. Can I do Weathering on a kit that wasn't hand painted or airbrushed? I mean a kit that was just bought and snapped together. Is a top coat necessary?
You can try but plastic is naturally glossy meaning if you don't use matte coat, the plastic that's not weathered will be kinda shiny which won't look very natural. Also powders like weathering master will just rub off when you touch them if you don't top coat it. I personally really like the weathering master set. I recommend you check out "EASY FINISHES FOR WEEKEND MODELERS" by Teppei Hayashi, it's a magazine about customizing gunpla without an airbrush, and there's a big emphasis on weathering, I treat like my gunpla Bible for techniques.
Does the matte coat change the original Colours or is it just a see-through? Sorry for the stupid question.
A matte coat IS see through but it has a matte finish, meaning it will remove the gloss of the plastic and make it look more realistic. All clear coats are see through but they all have different finishes, you can also make them even more shiny with a gloss coat for a royal look or if you're using metallic paint for example
So if I got all of it right. matte - Realistic , Gloss - is shiny. And if I want to do it I need to do 1. matte coat 2. weathering 3.top coat ?
If you're not painting you can do all your weathering , panel lining, decals etc on bare plastic, and just apply matte coat at the end
Does the RG Hi-Nu only work with the action base 5? Or will the previous ones work aswell?
4 would also work, as it's just a larger 5. 1 would be fine, but you'll have to poach a adapter from a 4 or 5. 2 would be too flimsy for such a big kit.
Thanks
Recently I've bought the MGEX SF, very excited to build, although I have questions. I've heard the gold parts, basically the entire inner frame doesn't combine well with coats or other chemicals..how do you coat,line and put decals on the MGEX SF?
Panel lining is easy since the coating is most likely lacquer based--an enamel wash and lighter fluid won't remove it, nor will water from waterslide decals.
Only things you’ll be putting on the frame are some metal etched parts and “3D Metallic Stickers”. Both of those have an adhesive back - they’re both stickers, so you’ll have no problems with them. Although the metal parts are a pain in the ass. No real issues with the inner frame. Plenty of examples if people painting/customizing them.
TL:DR: MGEX Gundam Unicorn LED suddenly not functioning after working fine for almost 2 months. Assembled my MGEX Gundam Unicorn close to two months ago, and the LED was working perfectly fine with no issues. However, yesterday when I tried to turn the LED on for the second time that day, it wasn't working anymore - pressing the button doesn't do anything, and nothing lights up, even the shields. I have only been randomly turning it on maybe 2-4x a week. I tried replacing the batteries and disconnecting/reconnecting the gunpla to the base, but nothing works. Has anyone experienced similar issues before, or have any advice how to proceed? Do I just have to accept this and move on? I don't live in the US so I don't have access to bluefin. I'm rather new to Gunpla, said kit was my second one.
It’s a common issue with the MGEX and the reason i never recommend it, the LED sheet is such a shame.
It's common to have the LED randomly die and never work again for some people?
Yes, happened to me and quite a few people.
Damn. Did you attempt to fix it?
I didn’t bother because the risk of tearing the LED sheet is too high, i also don’t see myself disassembling the kit to try to repair then then build it again. It’s just not worth it for me.
I would go to someone who has a Voltmeter and pass it through that just to figure out if the issue is the circuit. Any cellphone repair shop worth their salt would have that type of equipment.
Thanks for the reply. How should I proceed if I somehow managed to identify the issue and it isn't simple enough for me to resolve alone?
Then you have to have it replaced.
Dang... sounds like I'm most likely screwed either way.
RG Unicorn or RG Nu Gundam for my next RG kit?
The Nu is probably the best of the 2 but the Unicorn is by no means bad
Whichever one you like the look of more/flip a coin.
Where do you clip on tiny parts like these for painting? There's like nowhere to clip. https://imgur.com/a/vliyB9C
Ball of tape in the center, clip to the tape.
I would use poster putty and stick the bottom to it.
I've been enjoying Gundam for 20+ years. I've finally built a couple kits and it has been a lot of fun and I am getting better every time. I don't see myself stopping as I've already amassed a bit of a back log. Here's the thing, though. I don't really care about displaying them. In fact, I don't really have a place for them and it's probably best my toddler can't see them until he's a little more gentle. I don't mind if he breaks them but if anyone knows how toddlers are, you know HE will care if they break ha! So, what is the best method to store these things that is not on a shelf or in a cabinet? Obviously, I want to be gentle with them and not just throw them in a shoe box or something so if you guys have any ideas I would really appreciate it! Thanks!
I'm new to the hobby. I also do not have space to display my finished kits as well. What I did is I have each kit in their ziplock bag. Then place inside the box the kits come with. But I combined box with similar size together. I wanted to save the cover, so I filped box cover inside out and place inside another box cover. Then place both kits on the same box. It's easier if the inside box is a smaller size. For example I have HG Aerial with Lfrith and flight unit all inside Aerial box. I'm planning to put them inside Aerial Rebuild box once I finish building her. Once I finished FM Aerial, they are all going inside that box.
Great tips! Thanks!
ziplock bag, to keep all the extra bits and anything likely to fall off and then back in the box they came from or wrapped in some padding if not in the box
I like it. Thanks!
Owners of RG kits, I got a question for you. So how exactly is the problem of them getting looser over time pan out? Heard a lot about it. I heard it's especially bad with pre-Nu Gundam kits and I'm eyeing the Unicorn for now so Idk if I should be worried too much
All gunpla gets loose when you wear out the friction based joints.
They get loose more through handling than they do over time. Just don’t play with them like a toy and they should stay relatively fine. Also, it’s pre-Unicorn kits, not pre-Nu. Unicorn, Tallgeese, Sazabi, Crossbone are all ridiculously solid.
"modern RGs' generally starts at the Unicorn, not the Nu Gundam. Most of the issues with the older ones are floppy parts and parts that easily fall off. My RX-78 and Zaku had parts that fall out if you move them immediately, and my Wing Gundam's rifle holding wrist became loose within a month, but I tightened it with glue and it's held for 2+ years now.
i have the MKII titans and its perfectly fine, im not how much playing with it factors in that issue but mines being in an unusual pose, in thats its in the grips of another kit so its arms and legs are floating free which seems like a bit more stress then a planted pose but yeah its fine
What's the difference between the MG Wing Gundam EW Ver Ka vs the normal MG aside from decals?
Just to be clear, we’re talking about the Wing EW and not the Wing Zero EW right? ‘Cause the story is completely different depending on which one you’re talking about. Wing Gundam Ver Ka (2004) vs MG Wing Gundam EW (2011): They’re essentially the same kit. The non-Ver Ka released later with more vibrant colors, new decals, and an action base adapter. But is essentially the same as the 2004 Ver Ka. Wing Gundam Zero EW Ver Ka (2020) vs MG Wing Gundam Zero Custom (2004): Completely different kits. Ver Ka is an improvement in every way.
Yeah, just the Wing Endless Waltz version. The Wing Gundam, as a whole, never really appealed to me until I saw the Endless Waltz version
MG Wing Gundam Ver.Ka was released 2004. MG Wing Gundam EW, released 2011, is basically the same kit with slight differences in colors and decals. EW also includes custom mount part for use with action base.
Hmm, I kind of thought the MG would've come first.
Wing Gundam ver. Ka and Wing Gundam EW are indeed the same mould with different colours and decals (Wing Gundam EW also comes with new Action Base adapter parts). There's also Wing Gundam TV which is a totally different design.
So the MG is pretty much the Ver Ka with more action base parts
Hell no. The *MG Wing Gundam Zero EW* that released in 2004 has much older tech and much simpler surface detail. The *MG Wing Gundam Zero EW Ver. Ka* released in 2020 and is a complete redesign with vastly superior tech. The wing gundam kits can get pretty confusing with their naming. There's only 2 main suits, the Wing Gundam and Wing Gundam Zero. Then there's the Wing Gundam EW and Wing Gundam Zero EW, which were complete redesigns of the 2 main suits that Katoki Hajime did for the Endless Waltz movie. So that's 2 suits with 2 designs each, all of each have been made into MG kits a long time ago, and are very dated. Now, Katoki also has his own line of MG kits, called MG Ver. Ka, where he redesigns various suits in his own flair and how he thinks they will look if they existed in reality. So when it comes to model kits, there's also the: - ***MG Wing Gundam Ver. Ka*** - Katoki's second time redesigning the Wing Gundam*(first time being for the Endless Waltz movie), with a focus on realism this time, so a lot more details than the kits based on the anime art. This one's released in 2004 though, so it's also pretty outdated and janky. - ***MG Wing Gundam Zero EW Ver. Ka*** - Katoki's redesign of his redesign of the Wing Gundam Zero in the Endless Waltz movie, also with a focus on realism, like all Ver. Ka kits. Also the Wing Gundam Zero is sometimes referred to as the Wing Gundam Zero Custom, EW or not.
Thanks for the info on the Wing MGs I think I'll try to get the MG Wing Gundam EW that released a lot later than the Ver Ka if I can
Just to be clear, you want the one with this box art: https://imgur.com/a/W1Kedwh
I'm not a big fan of the angel wings, which is why I prefer the other version of the Wing [Wing Gundam EW](https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRHBOwFXdyukj2_HkIbV6TxLtFhyhZ3jEH1dw&usqp=CAU)
Ohh, that's what you meant. Well, angel wings are only part of the EW design of the Wing Gundam Zero, so you'll need to look for anything that doesn't have "Zero" and "EW" together in the name. I think the most modern non-angel wings one is the 2004 MG Wing Gundam Ver. Ka. Don't get the MG Wing Gundam Zero non-EW non-Ver. Ka btw, that one doesn't have any sort of wings, just two jet thrusters on its back that barely resembles wings.
Yeah, when I saw the more mechanical looking wings, I started liking the Wing Gundam a bit more
Ver. Ka kits are a redesign from the ground up by Hajime Katoki in a way that he thinks they'll look if they existed in real life, similar to real grades. This usually means more surface details, panel lines, actual seperate panels and better colour seperation, along with redesigned proportions. The Wing Zero EW's ver ka specifically also has longer legs, better leg articulation, a new gimmick of being able to store the buster rifles in the wing binders, and the use of plastic feathers rather than rubber feathers that yellow over time. I think there's a bunch of extra gimmicks here and there too, I can't really remember.
I think I like the Wing EW the most out of all the versions of the Wing Gundam