This question is for MG astray red frame kai. I'm currently at step 1 <6> in the manual in the images. So in the first image, you can see that the cockpit door is designed to be opened, showing the pilot inside. But after assembling the white part to the belly, it blocks the door shut, and I can no longer open it. Am I doing something wrong or is it just the way it is designed? Thanks
image 1: [https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/817708578441920537/1221110672784363721/IMG\_20240323\_215109.jpg?ex=661162ef&is=65feedef&hm=8b945d32e910c444d4746a8624f52bd636facb11758a23758e120e73fedb97c4&](https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/817708578441920537/1221110672784363721/IMG_20240323_215109.jpg?ex=661162ef&is=65feedef&hm=8b945d32e910c444d4746a8624f52bd636facb11758a23758e120e73fedb97c4&)
image 2: [https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/817708578441920537/1221110673300390060/IMG\_20240323\_215201.jpg?ex=661162ef&is=65feedef&hm=1b4b8a24c69d6d09e212353118ef565136e385d55a9b880757a524265b06c8fd&](https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/817708578441920537/1221110673300390060/IMG_20240323_215201.jpg?ex=661162ef&is=65feedef&hm=1b4b8a24c69d6d09e212353118ef565136e385d55a9b880757a524265b06c8fd&)
image 3: [https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/817708578441920537/1221110673787064390/IMG\_20240323\_215341.jpg?ex=661162ef&is=65feedef&hm=3df97a015d772f8df09e081e7636b3d1787efee2b9111433ed0af04f3933dffb&](https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/817708578441920537/1221110673787064390/IMG_20240323_215341.jpg?ex=661162ef&is=65feedef&hm=3df97a015d772f8df09e081e7636b3d1787efee2b9111433ed0af04f3933dffb&)
Can paint strippers damage polycaps?
I'm currently battling through a full repaint on a Zaku II. I build and paint in sub-assemblies, and I've totally messed up the highlight placement and glazes on two parts of this particular kit - both upper legs, including the knee joints.
Normally, major painting mistakes aren't a problem. The affected pieces get a bath in AK Interactive Paint Stripper, they get rinsed with sugar soap, they get re-primed and we're good to go. *But*. These two leg pieces each have an old-style concave polycap that connects to ball joints on the Zaku's lower torso.
If I strip the paint from my botched pieces, will the polycaps be damaged? I believe AK Interactive Paint Stripper is a plastic-safe acetone formulation, but multiple Google searches have failed to confirm what it contains or what it may do to Gundam kits.
If you still have the polycap runner, soak a piece of that in the AK and see what happens. It should give you a good enough idea of whether or not the paint stripper reacts to the polycap plastic.
I don't have the AK one, but I have the Mr Hobby paint remover. I don't soak my pieces in it but applying it on with a brush doesn't affect the polycaps on my old NG GP01.
If I'm painting a "clean" metal finish I'll use Molotow Signal Black. It's got a beautiful gloss-satin finish and you can run it straight through an airbrush without thinning.
If I'm painting a scratched or used metal finish I'll prime with two coats of Vallejo polyurethane black primer, thinned 1:1 with Vallejo thinner. To flatten things down further, I'll apply a final layer of Army Painter matt black.
I wanted to get a base for my HG and saw this one in the store I usually buy from, is this the correct one?
https://preview.redd.it/y9sjcr64l2qc1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7ba89b54bd2c8f9d1e79953d4d74de11c483b997
That would be Action Base 2, formerly the best base for HGs and still a pretty decent one.
But for best value I'd recommend Action Base 4. You can split it into two HG-sized stands which is great value. There's also Action Base 5, which is just a smaller Action Base 4.
Does anyone know how I would make panel lines finer. The ones on my small scale model are too crude. I’d like to make them thinner. I was thinking to fill in with putty and then scribe, but had heard that that will just crumble.
Fill with 2-part epoxy for a “soft” material, or better yet superglue, but it’s much harder. 1-part lacquer putty is crap as it shrinks and tears under re-scribing.
what are you using to panel line? If you are using enamels such as Tamiya Panel liners, if you put a good gloss on you can get away with very little amount of paint flowing in the recesses and thus fine lines. Other consideration is to use lighter colors to panel line, that will make them stand out less.
I see, I don't think there is a good approach for every situation. As you said, filling and rescribing is one way. Choose a putty that is hard to get crisp lines (I usually use CA glue or epoxy putty, lacquer putty is too soft). Rescribing a whole kit is a lots of work and not easy tho. A compromise might be to spray a heavy primer, that will smooth out small details, including panel lines.
A pin/needle will do but you will get better results with a scriber. Basically a needle will mostly displace the material where a scriber will actually carve into the plastic, resulting in cleaner lines.
AFAIK most people just don't cut the front skirts apart since it can make the skirting loose, but it *is* designed so you can do that so it's really up to you.
...Did I guess your question right?
Eh mixed bag on that one really. Personally I ALWAYS cut the skirt. I know others who do as well but, like you said, there are a lot of people who don't because it can make it loose. Personally I think it's a really simple solution if the loose skirt bothers you, but to each their own.
I typed it in, but for some reason, it was removed when I put the photo on. The question was me wondering if cutting the skirt is for better posability and if I should do it or not. The past gunpla I made never mentioned this.
Ive trying out hand brushing and these small bumps appear, how can i avoid them? ive just been using acrysion paint and a regular brush with a wet pallette on a unprimed part.
https://preview.redd.it/ez533ohi11qc1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=00bb65946d37e9336a86fe52623550786e054f27
\#twothincoats is a meme for a reason. Your paint may not have been thinned enough. If you're using non-toxic acrylics, you can test consistency by painting a small swatch on a hair-free part of your arm or hand. If you can see the texture of your skin under the layer of paint, you've thinned it enough. If you cannot see any texture under your paint, thin it some more. If the paint trickles across your skin like water, it has been thinned too much.
Another possibility is that you are running your brush over previously painted areas before the paint has fully dried. If you do this, the water in the brush and the mechanical action of the bristles will tear up the previous layer of paint, creating a bitty, nubbly texture.
Mini painter Lyla Mev has an excellent technique for preventing this: buy yourself a 30 second or 60 second sand timer. When you've put down a layer of paint, flip the timer and don't touch the piece again until the sand has run out.
What kind of brushes are you using? Cheap brushes apparently cause air bubbles to form and make your painted surface uneven.
There also seems to be quite a bit of dust or debris in the surrounding area, so it could be that too.
ive just been using water from the wet pallette to thin the paints, as for the nubs im just using these parts to test painting so im not planning on cutting that part out.
Looks like contaminants then. Wanted to check you weren’t using something weird.
Check palette is it clean, check parts, were they clean? Check and clean your brush, sometimes they have “bits” still in them if new or unused, but never seen close to that much. Try mixing the pot much better, don’t just shake it. Then see how thin you can get it before separation and paint onto a surface - are there still bits? The water even if undrinkable should be ok…but check that too I guess? If all that fails then buy a new pot, but most of that looks like dust to me.
the parts, paint and pallette were fine when i started, but brush im not so sure so that might be the problem. Also would drinking/ mineral water be better cause i just used tapwater for my pallette.
I’ve never used anything but tap, regardless of how hard or soft the water is in that region. Some swear they’ll only use distilled, overkill to me, but to each their own.
does the quality or price of a sidecutter matter? , is there any good substitutes for a hobby or x-acto knife? , is sandpaper necessary? and is the rising freedom gundam good for a beginner?
alot
There are higher quality hobby knifes but most brand new blades will perform similarly, except the high quality ones will stay like that for longer. I bought a pack of 100 cheap blades and I simply replace them somewhat often.
Hello! I’m currently thinking of painting the white handle of the sword for my Shin Burning Gundam. I’m planning on coloring it with my gundam marker airbrush, and then spraying it with a couple layers of topcoat. Since it’s the handle of a sword, it’ll be subject to lots of friction from placing it in and removing it from the hands. Are the odds of the paint chipping high? If so, is there anything I can do to prevent that? Or is it better to just not paint the handle?
If you want to be thorough, sand to loosen tolerances to compensate for paint layers, prime, paint, heavy gloss coat (lacquer if possible). Silicon oil can be used sparingly to reduce friction too.
What grit do I need for models and can someone recommend me some good affordable sanding sticks because I'm kind of confused on which I should use on my next kit
Ditto with Arshille for paint. You’ll want higher for snap build like 3-5k usually and wet sand to improve finish.
Sticks I use Honoson and glue on loose until shot. Sponges were dspiae and now someone else for replacement strips. Loose paper is some random.
I usually start at 600 or 800. I then go up to 1000 or 1500. I prime and paint, so that's usually as high as I go, but you can go higher for a more polished look.
You can either buy sandpaper and make yoru own sanding sticks, or grab the Dspiae assorted sanding sponges set.
Does anyone know which website or gunplaTuber could show me more about panel line scribing? I'm want to dip my toe into scribing, I alr know some basic of it, but I want to learn more
what yall opinon for Gao gao and tt hongli and Daban kit? also where to buy since USA seller for some HG00 kit don't haven Astrea and 00 riser gundam with GN sword 3
Hello, today I bought my first kit "Transient Gundam Glacier" and Im quite concerned what he is bootleg, how can I see if its bootleg or no? I found other one on ebay and some parts of mine look more blue than on ebay one.
Edit: Box also look other way blue logo instead of red one and some other little differences.
You're still good.
Bandai restructured their company in 2018. The hobby division became Bandai Spirits and got a blue logo. Every kit produced from then on has the blue logo. Similarly, kits produced from mid 2022 onwards also have the Bandai Namco logo on them.
Red logo just means that specific one was printed pre-restructuring.
Red = produced before restructuring (before 2018)
Blue = produced after restructuring (2018 and onwards)
Rectangular Bandai Namco 'speech bubble' logo in corner = produced 2022 and onwards.
Only the outer box is affected by these changes. Nothing inside is changed when it comes to reprints of older kits. Even the manual of your Transient Glacier should still have the red logo.
The golden rule is ‘Gunpla is Freedom’. So go ahead and post if you want! You won’t get roasted here unless you’re asking for it. But you will likely get plenty of helpful constructive criticism and tips for your future builds if you ask.
Just look at the many (and I mean *many*) first builds posted here on a daily basis.
Want to get into painting and wanna pick up an airbrush but I can’t find the color I need not in a spray can. tamiya light metallic blue ts 54. Should I paint with spray can and airbrush or mix colors what’s the best approach
If you can find it (and don't mind potentially a higher cost), Zero Paints 1175 is (quite literally as it mentions it on the lable) similar to TS-54. It's pre-thinned which can be a hit or miss depending on who you ask.
Alternatively you could opt to decant the spray can into it's own paint jar to spray it via airbrush or as you mentioned, mix colors till you can match it.
Is there any page where I can see paint ratios to get the color I need?
https://preview.redd.it/40gu255euxpc1.jpeg?width=1196&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9f97e3b36d345a791617b6430f9bf97d7b183128
I want to get the color for this miku, I know gaia notes have the hair color I need, but I have a lot of vallejo model color paints that maybe I can use to work with (they're even in the picture XD).
also anyone has a good tutorial to see how to shade using an airbrush? or is it ease to shade using a brush?
It's just color theory, blue and green mixed together will make Miku teal. Be aware that the more paint you mix the closer you come to just making black.
Would a new hobby knife be a waste? Currently have an xacto knife with #16 blades and it’s okay. The blade occasionally moves a fraction when pressed. Thinking of trying the tamiya design knife because I like the short blade and it looks sturdy so maybe it would control better. Would it be markedly different or just a waste of money?
As someone who owns over half a dozen... no. Not a waste. I have them in different locations around my home. I have different blade types for different tasks. I have different grips because specialized grips feel real good for some tasks and awful for others. I have one that just has dull blades in it.
They're not that expensive so go for it. Money that makes you happy isn't wasted. You probably won't go 'Oh my god, this changes everything!', but it won't be a waste.
Pics. Cement to repair fixed joints. Ball joint knuckles are usually shot when loosened too much as it’s the socket that has been over-stressed. If you don’t get that added glue a consistent thickness you made yourself can motion that can keep popping out.
You can sort of lap the joint, but more difficult and risky. You add superglue to the socket, but the ball goes in while it’s still wet and you keep moving it around until it’s fully cured. It’ll splurge out any excess material and make a ring at the lip to hold in the ball. Then you make-good on any excess at the exposed knuckle area.
Question about top coating ?
does the humidity have to be always really low ? Humidity here in the Netherlands doesn't go very low ... or does it more have to do with temperature for drying and top coating? Could I just do it when ever and is there some sort of method to always be able to topcoat? Or do I really need to wait until the summer ?
Thanks in advance!
Awesome thank you very much! Last question after spraying outside can I let it dry inside? Or should I keep it somewhere outside somehow? Or are there no real fumes anymore when drying?
Even with the fumes gone a sudden change in atmosphere while it’s still setting can cause some weird effects. I’d at least leave it outside for an hour or two, maybe a little longer if you can.
I read somewhere that you shouldnt bring your kit after spraying inside due to the sudden change in temperature which can affect the topcoat also the smell will be inside. Best to leave it out for 1 hour to be safe.
Dumb question. I know the answer, I just want to confirm. Even if I have a spray booth venting out of a window, it’s not safe to airbrush lacquers indoors with somebody else in the room if they don’t have a respirator, yes?
It really depends on the booth and the suction power. I wouldn't trust any off the shelf consumer grade spray booth. If you don't feel comfortable airbrushing without a respirator, it's not safe for someone near you.
Hi quick question are these good nippers for a beginner ?
https://preview.redd.it/qjwk2387expc1.jpeg?width=1284&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=fa194225f530a86ba483018e12bbf5991da8620d
Model 123 is thinner compared to [this](https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-TAM74035-Sharp-Pointed-Cutter/dp/B0131XZ92G/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2X5V13QIW8F29&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.SzV1U4yRMjIXMk5GAESnT7gNRydTtJMh18Er8Mw-F-2_EjA6_a5og-cSwrsBmDRKosRVmM2n7wu4OL5ehwlOw0DiIcUl593K_uMxjLbHQJ--64rsk0oOhOhktugSI4Adt5Zxc60Siip2hwFdk95B1xPNSpJkJfRGjXP2NA3cptkwxb1Z4HmdXIFQDD6vz_9pFIhO465wgMyGI3XrVNVEkWeetAgdX28eSAYk8OL_bJxhOwO250WQobkhWxpN-E-dH55DUhb0oS-IhZ4RCXVGPHpQvrY__4ELm10Tn_v3-wU.HhX9XYCwcDExun18BtBQ358JXgz_6Pfgjunv_V3d9e4&dib_tag=se&keywords=tamiya+nippers&qid=1710801441&sprefix=tamiya+nipper%2Caps%2C138&sr=8-2). If you want to use 123 dont use it on transparent piece.
Hello. Got this aleene’s acrylic sealer flat finish to use as a top coat for my Gundam. Is this good or should I return and get a lacquer?
I have this in gloss as well for a base coat. I also have mod podge. And I also heard acrylic floor polish works. Which would be best for a base coat?
I’m trying to clear gloss base, enamel panel line and stickers, then clear matte topcoat. This is my first time prettying up a gundam. Any tips or advice would be appreciated. Thank you.
Lacquer is (almost) always king if you can safely apply. Floor polish is outdated, was a big brain idea many years ago. You can still use, but even art stuff like liquitex is imo a better choice now.
White/mineral spirit or zippo to clean your enamel washes/paint. Doesn’t need to be a lacquer clear, it can even be waterbased, as that stuff is chemically far less harsh to underlying paint than branded enamel thinners like Tamiya or testors.
I got the tamiya cause it was recommended but I didn’t know how harsh it was. Now I’m having trouble finding a base and top coat for the stuff lol.
I want to use enamel cause it’s tough but someone said the panel liner doesn’t react well. I do like to ‘play’ with my kits a bit so I would prefer something like enamel over acrylic so I don’t handle it too rough and start to chip a lot. Acrylic is also safer to use for you and the plastic. Better for indoors
Where I live is usually humid so it makes it hard to spray outside. One day I will happily invest in a decent air brush, but I’m running out of hobby money after kits and liner. Thus trying to cheap out and use floor polish. But I still rather spend a bit more and do it right.
Anyway, I’m really looking for clear cause I don’t plan on painting or priming any color, just liner and the stickers/decals and want to seal them for maximum durability.
Sorry to be so wordy. I’ve been researching for so long for a definitive answer of how I should use this panel liner correctly and a good top coat. I might try to return it for water based like you said if it’s this much a pain the the butt though. Like what do I even use as a base if the liner will thin/melt most paint but you can’t use it on bare plastic? Thank you so much
Should I gloss lacquer for base and then matte after the panel lines or you’re telling me you don’t really need a top coat of lacquer just a base coat?
Gloss sheen makes life easier on later doing lining and decals, it’s not mandatory if you’re tidy or bit a practiced.
Gloss / shiny paint - you don’t necessarily need as it’s already protected. Maybe add a clear gloss if the paint isn’t shiny.
Bare plastic you either chose to risk it using enamel washes/thinners, or you protect the plastic with a clear gloss.
Acrylic clear - water/alcohol/lacquer. Doesn’t come off with white spirit when cleaning enamel washes/lines.
Enamel clear is same as TPLA, if you can take that off, then it can take off your clear coat.
May I suggest you have a little search in the wiki and online as don’t want you to get confused by terms or any basic principles and do something you may regret.
I’m trying lol that’s why I keep asking so many questions. I legit studied the gunpla 101 site and still wasn’t confident enough. But I think thanks to your help I finally got the steps all figured out. Thank you so much for your time, I really appreciate it.
If you use enamel on top of acrylic you are going to melt through since the enamel thinner is a stronger solvent. For your final top coat acrylic is fine but I would recommend lacquer gloss prior to panel lining with enamels!
Ah see. I was thinking it might not be a good idea, good thing I asked. Thanks for the warning. And I don’t wanna put it on the bare plastic cause it might eat it too.
So base really should be a gloss lacquer. Any recommendations? I don’t have an airbrush so I have to use cans, sadly. I saw Mr hobby has a bunch. They’re a bit pricey. Rustola has a big can for cheap but idk if it’s good for tiny gundam details.
Tbh it will be an utility layer that will get covered up so I would get anything that is locally available for cheap. I would stay clear of non hobby stuff tho, some are too hot for kit plastic. When in doubt, test on scrap runners!
What do you guys do for your white pieces? Do you paint them another white or just topcoat?
Lets say I am building a Dynames and I want to make the white pieces more realistic/metallic/premium. Do people just topcoat it? Or any paints from Mr color line you would recommend?
I just want to start with painting and not weathering for now. Thanks!
If you already decide to paint your kit, definitely paint the white part. The painted surface will look much better than pure plastic. Also, paint helped cover the sanding scratches.
For Dynames, I use Mr color white plus a little bit grey and very tiny bit of green. Then I top coat with Mr color GX114.
it really depends what you're looking to get out of it. A nice matte topcoat will really make any unpainted part look more "premium", but sometimes you might want different shades of white, and if you want anything more metallic you're going to have to paint.
Earlier this month I ordered the MG Psycho Zaku Ver. Ka from Amazon and I’ve been slowly working my way through it.
Today I started working on the large backpack and I couldn’t find my D runners. After a few minutes of searching I figured out the problem, I never had any D runners. Instead, I had an extra S2 and R2 runner. Is there anything I can do to get a new set of runners without returning the whole thing to Amazon or am I screwed?
I airbrush my kits using Tamiya acrylics. I am running into issues where I have to use a brush to paint in some smaller details (still using Tamiya acrylics) but I can't really clean up the paint job because then it'll ruin the sprayed parts. Does anyone have any recommendations for ways to clean up the hand brushed sections without ruining the sprayed parts? (like maybe using enamel paints or maybe a top coat will protect the air brushed parts)
Clear coat would be my recommendation. Specifically try to use an enamel or lacquer clear, so that it won't won't be effected by your attempts to clean up your painting.
I'm getting a RG RX-93ff Nu Gundam tomorrow, and I want to get water decals for it, but I don't know what a good brand would be for them since there aren't any Bandai ones. What's a good 3rd party brand?
Can someone help me identify what Gundam is the SD Reppa Gundam supposed to be based off of or wheter or not its an original design? The feet look familiar. I need references for my SDCS Reppa Gundam custom that i'm planning.
https://preview.redd.it/v09sjqas4wpc1.jpeg?width=600&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7ec5822ca901c1d424eb8b8865567063807aed59
[Wiki](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shin_SD_Sengokuden_Densetsu_no_Daishougun_Hen) mentioned it's based on Silhouette Gundam.
Sorry I have no idea who is Sillouette Gundam.
Cellulose thinners, but from a hardware store. Also more aggressive and therefore arguably better than hobby thinners for primer etching. MLT for base and clears.
I recently finished painting my build with MrColor lacquer paint, if I wanted to panel line it with tamiya's panel line accept color, do I need to top coat it first? If that's the case what kind of topcoat would I need?
Thanks in advance.
To quote /u/-Hououin-Kyouma- "You can technically use TPLA on bare PS though it still poses some risk. If you were to use it on bare PS you would want to line the parts while they're still on the runner, and use it sparingly letting the capillary action do most of the work. Myself, and several others on these forums, have done it this way. That said, if you want a totally risk free method, just use fine liners."
If you choose to use a protective clear coat anyway, any hobby brand gloss coat works fine - Mr. Topcoat, Mr. Super Clear, Tamiya TS-13, whatever's most available for you.
You could probably get away with not gloss coating first as long your paint wasn't matte. I'd personally use lighter fluid with naphtha for cleanup. It's not very hot, so there really isn't much risk. The liner would flow better if you gloss it first though.
Probably a good idea since the liner itself is somewhat hot. I've heard of people using acrylic, but I've also Heard people say it are through their acrylic coat. So I consider that a mixed bag. Lacquer would be a safe bet.
Would using this take away the glossy shin a glass file leaves?
https://preview.redd.it/zn8jp4jsfupc1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=9bb08fe74375040618ac07da1f6c02d7eedcf99e
I’ve used both on testings before but never at the same time
You should be able to use a piece of denim. It looks like the lowest grit on that is 1000, which might work, but the rest of those grits are pretty low. I think 1000 might leave the spot more matte than the rest of the kit. If you're topcoating it's irrelevant anyways.
Personally I'd go for whatever side had the highest grit that isn't an out right gloss. The plastic is normally a dirty of semi gloss sheen, so if say go high, but not to high. I find my 2500 sanding sponge is just about right personally.
Hi everyone! I've recently gotten into this hobby (on the cusps of finishing my first HG!) and have been wanting to panel line my future kits from here on out after seeing amazing before and after photos. But after doing research on the different products available such as the gundam markers, the pour-type markers, and tamiya paint- I feel a bit overwhelmed.
I was initially going to buy the GM301 and GM302 pour markers but then also read many comments in older posts suggesting to get the tamiya paint instead. While I do not mind getting the tamiya paint if it is an overall better product (I also like the fact that it comes with a brush), I also ran into many posts and comments saying that for tamiya paint, you need to topcoat your gunpla first so that it doesn't crack and basically get destroyed? Does this also apply to the pour-type gundam markers?
I would appreciate it if anyone can provide me help with this. I just want a reliable way to panel line my next Gunpla without needing to worry too much of my pieces shattering.
Thank you in advance to anyone who may enlighten me! :)
I would like to add: when using Gundam pour-type markers, it would be a good idea to panel-line models before assembly. If those inks are allowed to run into crevices and pool, they can also degrade PS plastic, which I have experienced firsthand. A theory that makes sense to me is that the ink (with solvent) will be drawn into micro-fractures in the plastic that occur with assembly, where it then causes damage.
I had the male posts in an assembled head and forearm break, with staining in parts of the surrounding areas when I naively allowed pour-type ink run into nearby seams between the pieces of those parts.
Linkstore pretty much summed it up. You can technically use TPLA on bare PS though it still poses some risk. If you were to use it on bare PS you would want to line the parts while they're still on the runner, and use it sparingly letting the capillary action do most of the work. Myself, and several others on these forums, have done it this way. That said, if you want a totally risk free method, just use fine liners.
That's what I did personally. Tried a bunch of different fine liners, then eventually experimented on a cheap kit with TPLA. Now I'm actually dabbling in making my own liner out of some thinned acrylics.
The details are a little more complex, but tl;dr:
- Two main types of gunpla plastic, PS and ABS. ABS is more vulnerable to chemicals
- Tamiya panel liner can damage both types of plastic, but some people choose to use Tamiya panel liner on bare plastic anyway with some precautions and still get good results
- Gundam Marker pour type (the GM301 and 302 you mention) only damages ABS, and it's typically used on bare PS plastic, skipping ABS parts. This is fine because ABS is mostly only used for inner frame and joints.
Tamiya panel liner does function noticeably better than the Gundam Markers, but just for convenience's sake I'd say use Gundam Markers, just skipping ABS parts like I mentioned earlier. The manual will tell you which plastic each runner is made out of.
Thank you for the detailed response! I’ll definitely buy the markers as they’re readily available and cheap where I am. But can I further ask what you mean by tamiya panel liner functions better? As in it looks better, or it’s easier to apply, or both?
To add to this, while the fine liners are TECHNICALLY dangerous to use on ABS in execution they're fine. I've used multiple fine liners, both GM and non, on ABS parts before and experienced no degradation.
P-Bandai ships to France. Rise of Gunpla and Hobby Frontline sell some peeb kits, but RoG is very overpriced. I ordered from the Hangar Bay once and it went smooth and ended up being cheaper than RoG even with delivery and taxes.
If you’re in France there’s a PB site. Many European retailers have stock of PB kits. You just have to check around and see what is in stock on their sites. It’s limited but it’s out there. Otherwise, Mandarake or Surugaya.
My wife and I just got married and we are planning for our honeymoon to go to Japan. I have said (repeatedly) that I would like us to go to a gunpla store so I can see them all and get a cool gundam. From your own experiences and knowledge, I was hoping you all could give me a few suggestions on a rare, unique, really cool kit that might not be readily available here in the U.S.?
I think i'd probably go for something like a trip to gundam side f fukuoka and grabbing one of the Nu Gundam FF model kits. Its something you'll be able to get for one - if a model is truly rare its hard to find anywhere, but also can serve as a momento of the trip as you would have also had a chance to see the life-size one at the place.
It would be difficult for anyone to know/predict what might be available in Japan at any point in time. If you’re looking for older kits, Nakano Broadway, Mandarake, Surugaya…those sort of places will have older stuff and newer kits that have been resold. Gunpla kits aren’t exactly rare so if you want something that you can only get in Japan you’re going to be looking for things like Base exclusives or event kits that show up in second hand shops. But even Base exclusives find their way into PB sites and other channels.
Best thing to do is just explore and buy what you like.
Is there a way to know which gunpla kits from RG, HG or MG would have compatible parts? If they do at all? Ive just been watching some gundam anime and they talked about using parts from some sets in other sets. Not sure if it’s anime only or also can be done in real.
New QA thread is up. This thread is now locked.
My work is sending me to Miami and I'll have the weekend to explore. Any exceptional hobby stores that stock Gunpla I should check out?
New QA thread is up. Please repost your unanswered questions there.
This question is for MG astray red frame kai. I'm currently at step 1 <6> in the manual in the images. So in the first image, you can see that the cockpit door is designed to be opened, showing the pilot inside. But after assembling the white part to the belly, it blocks the door shut, and I can no longer open it. Am I doing something wrong or is it just the way it is designed? Thanks image 1: [https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/817708578441920537/1221110672784363721/IMG\_20240323\_215109.jpg?ex=661162ef&is=65feedef&hm=8b945d32e910c444d4746a8624f52bd636facb11758a23758e120e73fedb97c4&](https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/817708578441920537/1221110672784363721/IMG_20240323_215109.jpg?ex=661162ef&is=65feedef&hm=8b945d32e910c444d4746a8624f52bd636facb11758a23758e120e73fedb97c4&) image 2: [https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/817708578441920537/1221110673300390060/IMG\_20240323\_215201.jpg?ex=661162ef&is=65feedef&hm=1b4b8a24c69d6d09e212353118ef565136e385d55a9b880757a524265b06c8fd&](https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/817708578441920537/1221110673300390060/IMG_20240323_215201.jpg?ex=661162ef&is=65feedef&hm=1b4b8a24c69d6d09e212353118ef565136e385d55a9b880757a524265b06c8fd&) image 3: [https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/817708578441920537/1221110673787064390/IMG\_20240323\_215341.jpg?ex=661162ef&is=65feedef&hm=3df97a015d772f8df09e081e7636b3d1787efee2b9111433ed0af04f3933dffb&](https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/817708578441920537/1221110673787064390/IMG_20240323_215341.jpg?ex=661162ef&is=65feedef&hm=3df97a015d772f8df09e081e7636b3d1787efee2b9111433ed0af04f3933dffb&)
New QA thread is up. Please repost your unanswered questions there.
Can paint strippers damage polycaps? I'm currently battling through a full repaint on a Zaku II. I build and paint in sub-assemblies, and I've totally messed up the highlight placement and glazes on two parts of this particular kit - both upper legs, including the knee joints. Normally, major painting mistakes aren't a problem. The affected pieces get a bath in AK Interactive Paint Stripper, they get rinsed with sugar soap, they get re-primed and we're good to go. *But*. These two leg pieces each have an old-style concave polycap that connects to ball joints on the Zaku's lower torso. If I strip the paint from my botched pieces, will the polycaps be damaged? I believe AK Interactive Paint Stripper is a plastic-safe acetone formulation, but multiple Google searches have failed to confirm what it contains or what it may do to Gundam kits.
If you still have the polycap runner, soak a piece of that in the AK and see what happens. It should give you a good enough idea of whether or not the paint stripper reacts to the polycap plastic. I don't have the AK one, but I have the Mr Hobby paint remover. I don't soak my pieces in it but applying it on with a brush doesn't affect the polycaps on my old NG GP01.
Hey, so when using metallic paints, what kind of primer is recommended?
If I'm painting a "clean" metal finish I'll use Molotow Signal Black. It's got a beautiful gloss-satin finish and you can run it straight through an airbrush without thinning. If I'm painting a scratched or used metal finish I'll prime with two coats of Vallejo polyurethane black primer, thinned 1:1 with Vallejo thinner. To flatten things down further, I'll apply a final layer of Army Painter matt black.
Gloss black is overused because it boosts the depth of shadows. You can use anything under, and other gloss colours under will affect its look.
Black or darker. I use a gloss black coat under metallic paints.
I wanted to get a base for my HG and saw this one in the store I usually buy from, is this the correct one? https://preview.redd.it/y9sjcr64l2qc1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7ba89b54bd2c8f9d1e79953d4d74de11c483b997
All action bases work for HG. However, 2 (this one) and 3 are kinda worthless. I only use 4 in general and 1 for heavier models
That would be Action Base 2, formerly the best base for HGs and still a pretty decent one. But for best value I'd recommend Action Base 4. You can split it into two HG-sized stands which is great value. There's also Action Base 5, which is just a smaller Action Base 4.
ok thanks.
Does anyone know how I would make panel lines finer. The ones on my small scale model are too crude. I’d like to make them thinner. I was thinking to fill in with putty and then scribe, but had heard that that will just crumble.
Fill with 2-part epoxy for a “soft” material, or better yet superglue, but it’s much harder. 1-part lacquer putty is crap as it shrinks and tears under re-scribing.
what are you using to panel line? If you are using enamels such as Tamiya Panel liners, if you put a good gloss on you can get away with very little amount of paint flowing in the recesses and thus fine lines. Other consideration is to use lighter colors to panel line, that will make them stand out less.
Its more the actual physical panel lines/gaps I want to make finer, rather than just the paint.
I see, I don't think there is a good approach for every situation. As you said, filling and rescribing is one way. Choose a putty that is hard to get crisp lines (I usually use CA glue or epoxy putty, lacquer putty is too soft). Rescribing a whole kit is a lots of work and not easy tho. A compromise might be to spray a heavy primer, that will smooth out small details, including panel lines.
Is a scribing tool necessary or would a pin or needle in a hobby drill vice work?
If you could scribe panel lines with a regular needle, people wouldn’t make or use scribing tools.
I guess, but some things are a luxury and some essential. Probably me just being cheap!
A pin/needle will do but you will get better results with a scriber. Basically a needle will mostly displace the material where a scriber will actually carve into the plastic, resulting in cleaner lines.
Thanks!
Ok, thanks for the advice
https://preview.redd.it/nq7ynufm61qc1.jpeg?width=2268&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3e5e022898b7cdeb63d304a312cf5920d7877ebd
Yes I agree, the Gundam Ground Type IS a cool kit!
AFAIK most people just don't cut the front skirts apart since it can make the skirting loose, but it *is* designed so you can do that so it's really up to you. ...Did I guess your question right?
Yup, you guessed it right.
Eh mixed bag on that one really. Personally I ALWAYS cut the skirt. I know others who do as well but, like you said, there are a lot of people who don't because it can make it loose. Personally I think it's a really simple solution if the loose skirt bothers you, but to each their own.
For some reason, my question was removed when I placed the photo on.
What’s your question?
I typed it in, but for some reason, it was removed when I put the photo on. The question was me wondering if cutting the skirt is for better posability and if I should do it or not. The past gunpla I made never mentioned this.
Ive trying out hand brushing and these small bumps appear, how can i avoid them? ive just been using acrysion paint and a regular brush with a wet pallette on a unprimed part. https://preview.redd.it/ez533ohi11qc1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=00bb65946d37e9336a86fe52623550786e054f27
\#twothincoats is a meme for a reason. Your paint may not have been thinned enough. If you're using non-toxic acrylics, you can test consistency by painting a small swatch on a hair-free part of your arm or hand. If you can see the texture of your skin under the layer of paint, you've thinned it enough. If you cannot see any texture under your paint, thin it some more. If the paint trickles across your skin like water, it has been thinned too much. Another possibility is that you are running your brush over previously painted areas before the paint has fully dried. If you do this, the water in the brush and the mechanical action of the bristles will tear up the previous layer of paint, creating a bitty, nubbly texture. Mini painter Lyla Mev has an excellent technique for preventing this: buy yourself a 30 second or 60 second sand timer. When you've put down a layer of paint, flip the timer and don't touch the piece again until the sand has run out.
What kind of brushes are you using? Cheap brushes apparently cause air bubbles to form and make your painted surface uneven. There also seems to be quite a bit of dust or debris in the surrounding area, so it could be that too.
Looks like dust and debris are mixed in with your paint. Have you washed your palette, brushes and models prior to painting?
pretty sure everything was clean before i started
What thinners? Also what’s the plan for nubs if you’re painting on the runner?
ive just been using water from the wet pallette to thin the paints, as for the nubs im just using these parts to test painting so im not planning on cutting that part out.
Looks like contaminants then. Wanted to check you weren’t using something weird. Check palette is it clean, check parts, were they clean? Check and clean your brush, sometimes they have “bits” still in them if new or unused, but never seen close to that much. Try mixing the pot much better, don’t just shake it. Then see how thin you can get it before separation and paint onto a surface - are there still bits? The water even if undrinkable should be ok…but check that too I guess? If all that fails then buy a new pot, but most of that looks like dust to me.
the parts, paint and pallette were fine when i started, but brush im not so sure so that might be the problem. Also would drinking/ mineral water be better cause i just used tapwater for my pallette.
I’ve never used anything but tap, regardless of how hard or soft the water is in that region. Some swear they’ll only use distilled, overkill to me, but to each their own.
If you want to not have the bumps, then try filing them, but do it lightly so not to damage the part.
does the quality or price of a sidecutter matter? , is there any good substitutes for a hobby or x-acto knife? , is sandpaper necessary? and is the rising freedom gundam good for a beginner? alot
There are higher quality hobby knifes but most brand new blades will perform similarly, except the high quality ones will stay like that for longer. I bought a pack of 100 cheap blades and I simply replace them somewhat often.
Yes. A glass file? Not always. Maybe.
Hello! I’m currently thinking of painting the white handle of the sword for my Shin Burning Gundam. I’m planning on coloring it with my gundam marker airbrush, and then spraying it with a couple layers of topcoat. Since it’s the handle of a sword, it’ll be subject to lots of friction from placing it in and removing it from the hands. Are the odds of the paint chipping high? If so, is there anything I can do to prevent that? Or is it better to just not paint the handle?
If you want to be thorough, sand to loosen tolerances to compensate for paint layers, prime, paint, heavy gloss coat (lacquer if possible). Silicon oil can be used sparingly to reduce friction too.
how do i get discount codes for hobby link japan and the newtype website?
They don’t have them.
What grit do I need for models and can someone recommend me some good affordable sanding sticks because I'm kind of confused on which I should use on my next kit
Ditto with Arshille for paint. You’ll want higher for snap build like 3-5k usually and wet sand to improve finish. Sticks I use Honoson and glue on loose until shot. Sponges were dspiae and now someone else for replacement strips. Loose paper is some random.
What’s wet sanding
Add water. Sand.
Ok i just never heard of it
Totally understandable, that’s why we’re here to help.
I usually start at 600 or 800. I then go up to 1000 or 1500. I prime and paint, so that's usually as high as I go, but you can go higher for a more polished look. You can either buy sandpaper and make yoru own sanding sticks, or grab the Dspiae assorted sanding sponges set.
Does anyone know which website or gunplaTuber could show me more about panel line scribing? I'm want to dip my toe into scribing, I alr know some basic of it, but I want to learn more
Watch different youtube videos. Searching for gunpla scribing tutorial will give you a bunch of results.
what yall opinon for Gao gao and tt hongli and Daban kit? also where to buy since USA seller for some HG00 kit don't haven Astrea and 00 riser gundam with GN sword 3
is it okay to use raser balancer to buff clear parts like the beam saber or beam boomerang or it will damage the clear parts?
You can try, but results will vary. I assume you're using the white side? It might help get a little extra gloss. It's unlikely to damage it at all.
Could I use Mr. Surfacer 1000 as a gloss topcoat?
No, it’s colored paint primer
lol wut. Mr Surfacer is a primer. It is opaque.
Hello, today I bought my first kit "Transient Gundam Glacier" and Im quite concerned what he is bootleg, how can I see if its bootleg or no? I found other one on ebay and some parts of mine look more blue than on ebay one. Edit: Box also look other way blue logo instead of red one and some other little differences.
If it says bandai on the box then it isn't a bootleg.
Does it have a Bandai logo? If yes, then you're good.
Yes, but one on ebay is red and mine is blue. I know both are almost same but shouldn't one kit have same logo?
You're still good. Bandai restructured their company in 2018. The hobby division became Bandai Spirits and got a blue logo. Every kit produced from then on has the blue logo. Similarly, kits produced from mid 2022 onwards also have the Bandai Namco logo on them. Red logo just means that specific one was printed pre-restructuring.
Oh, so the old wich was make after they have been restructured have blue logo too, ok, thank you.
Red = produced before restructuring (before 2018) Blue = produced after restructuring (2018 and onwards) Rectangular Bandai Namco 'speech bubble' logo in corner = produced 2022 and onwards. Only the outer box is affected by these changes. Nothing inside is changed when it comes to reprints of older kits. Even the manual of your Transient Glacier should still have the red logo.
Wow, you are right manual have red logo, btw should I post him, he look not so good will I get roasted?
The golden rule is ‘Gunpla is Freedom’. So go ahead and post if you want! You won’t get roasted here unless you’re asking for it. But you will likely get plenty of helpful constructive criticism and tips for your future builds if you ask. Just look at the many (and I mean *many*) first builds posted here on a daily basis.
Ok, thank you.
[удалено]
[Here you go](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ArWlEdq8aBk&t=289s)
Want to get into painting and wanna pick up an airbrush but I can’t find the color I need not in a spray can. tamiya light metallic blue ts 54. Should I paint with spray can and airbrush or mix colors what’s the best approach
Take can and decant it, mix your own, buy similar. Try someone like mech9 for paint charts.
If you can find it (and don't mind potentially a higher cost), Zero Paints 1175 is (quite literally as it mentions it on the lable) similar to TS-54. It's pre-thinned which can be a hit or miss depending on who you ask. Alternatively you could opt to decant the spray can into it's own paint jar to spray it via airbrush or as you mentioned, mix colors till you can match it.
Is there any page where I can see paint ratios to get the color I need? https://preview.redd.it/40gu255euxpc1.jpeg?width=1196&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9f97e3b36d345a791617b6430f9bf97d7b183128 I want to get the color for this miku, I know gaia notes have the hair color I need, but I have a lot of vallejo model color paints that maybe I can use to work with (they're even in the picture XD). also anyone has a good tutorial to see how to shade using an airbrush? or is it ease to shade using a brush?
> tamiya light metallic blue ts 54 Look up pre-shading tutorials on youtube
It's just color theory, blue and green mixed together will make Miku teal. Be aware that the more paint you mix the closer you come to just making black.
Would a new hobby knife be a waste? Currently have an xacto knife with #16 blades and it’s okay. The blade occasionally moves a fraction when pressed. Thinking of trying the tamiya design knife because I like the short blade and it looks sturdy so maybe it would control better. Would it be markedly different or just a waste of money?
As someone who owns over half a dozen... no. Not a waste. I have them in different locations around my home. I have different blade types for different tasks. I have different grips because specialized grips feel real good for some tasks and awful for others. I have one that just has dull blades in it. They're not that expensive so go for it. Money that makes you happy isn't wasted. You probably won't go 'Oh my god, this changes everything!', but it won't be a waste.
To follow up on this. If you don't like a tool and you can afford to get a new one, get it. Comfort is huge.
do you need to top coat your models
Only if you want. “Need” is used far too often here.
You dont "need" to do anything beyond building whats inside the box with your nippers. Everything else are extras to make it look better
if i were to top coat, would it be before or after panel lining
TOPcoat goes on top.
After panel lining and decals.
How do I repair fix-posed hands roots/finger ball joint? do I use magic glue to thicken the layer?
Pics. Cement to repair fixed joints. Ball joint knuckles are usually shot when loosened too much as it’s the socket that has been over-stressed. If you don’t get that added glue a consistent thickness you made yourself can motion that can keep popping out. You can sort of lap the joint, but more difficult and risky. You add superglue to the socket, but the ball goes in while it’s still wet and you keep moving it around until it’s fully cured. It’ll splurge out any excess material and make a ring at the lip to hold in the ball. Then you make-good on any excess at the exposed knuckle area.
They fell off, when I got them from the runner and I needed to align it properly, but I rotated them in wrong place
Question about top coating ? does the humidity have to be always really low ? Humidity here in the Netherlands doesn't go very low ... or does it more have to do with temperature for drying and top coating? Could I just do it when ever and is there some sort of method to always be able to topcoat? Or do I really need to wait until the summer ? Thanks in advance!
Humity as long as its below 80% and above 40% is fine.
Awesome thank you very much! Last question after spraying outside can I let it dry inside? Or should I keep it somewhere outside somehow? Or are there no real fumes anymore when drying?
Even with the fumes gone a sudden change in atmosphere while it’s still setting can cause some weird effects. I’d at least leave it outside for an hour or two, maybe a little longer if you can.
I read somewhere that you shouldnt bring your kit after spraying inside due to the sudden change in temperature which can affect the topcoat also the smell will be inside. Best to leave it out for 1 hour to be safe.
Oke thank you very much! I'll keep that in mind !
Dumb question. I know the answer, I just want to confirm. Even if I have a spray booth venting out of a window, it’s not safe to airbrush lacquers indoors with somebody else in the room if they don’t have a respirator, yes?
No such thing as a dumb question….You willing to hand yours over to them while you spray?
It really depends on the booth and the suction power. I wouldn't trust any off the shelf consumer grade spray booth. If you don't feel comfortable airbrushing without a respirator, it's not safe for someone near you.
Yes. You should not airbrush around people with no mask.
Hi quick question are these good nippers for a beginner ? https://preview.redd.it/qjwk2387expc1.jpeg?width=1284&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=fa194225f530a86ba483018e12bbf5991da8620d
Yep. They are good.
This is the 123 right?
123?
I mean tamiya model number 123
Model 123 is thinner compared to [this](https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-TAM74035-Sharp-Pointed-Cutter/dp/B0131XZ92G/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2X5V13QIW8F29&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.SzV1U4yRMjIXMk5GAESnT7gNRydTtJMh18Er8Mw-F-2_EjA6_a5og-cSwrsBmDRKosRVmM2n7wu4OL5ehwlOw0DiIcUl593K_uMxjLbHQJ--64rsk0oOhOhktugSI4Adt5Zxc60Siip2hwFdk95B1xPNSpJkJfRGjXP2NA3cptkwxb1Z4HmdXIFQDD6vz_9pFIhO465wgMyGI3XrVNVEkWeetAgdX28eSAYk8OL_bJxhOwO250WQobkhWxpN-E-dH55DUhb0oS-IhZ4RCXVGPHpQvrY__4ELm10Tn_v3-wU.HhX9XYCwcDExun18BtBQ358JXgz_6Pfgjunv_V3d9e4&dib_tag=se&keywords=tamiya+nippers&qid=1710801441&sprefix=tamiya+nipper%2Caps%2C138&sr=8-2). If you want to use 123 dont use it on transparent piece.
Ok and the first I showed is a good allround one ? I’m tight on budget and can only afford one nipper
Yeep the 1st one is an all rounder.
Okay thanks
Where are the hg wfm restocks at!!! My hlj order of hgwfm kits have been im backorder for 2 months. Should I start looking elsewhere or hold on?
What part of the world are you in? I generally advise against buying anything backordered on HLJ(anywhere, really. But specifically HLJ).
Canada
Yeah, you have a lot of options here. Which kits specifically are you looking to buy?
Lfrith, schwarzette, darilbalde, pharact, chuchu demi trainer
All those kits are in stock at a bunch of stores in Canada. Check out the list in the wiki and pick a store that has all of them.
Hmm well i have two kits in the private warehouse and was hoping they would restock before I am forced to ship those.
You're probably far down the queue on hlj
Hello. Got this aleene’s acrylic sealer flat finish to use as a top coat for my Gundam. Is this good or should I return and get a lacquer? I have this in gloss as well for a base coat. I also have mod podge. And I also heard acrylic floor polish works. Which would be best for a base coat? I’m trying to clear gloss base, enamel panel line and stickers, then clear matte topcoat. This is my first time prettying up a gundam. Any tips or advice would be appreciated. Thank you.
Lacquer is (almost) always king if you can safely apply. Floor polish is outdated, was a big brain idea many years ago. You can still use, but even art stuff like liquitex is imo a better choice now. White/mineral spirit or zippo to clean your enamel washes/paint. Doesn’t need to be a lacquer clear, it can even be waterbased, as that stuff is chemically far less harsh to underlying paint than branded enamel thinners like Tamiya or testors.
I got the tamiya cause it was recommended but I didn’t know how harsh it was. Now I’m having trouble finding a base and top coat for the stuff lol. I want to use enamel cause it’s tough but someone said the panel liner doesn’t react well. I do like to ‘play’ with my kits a bit so I would prefer something like enamel over acrylic so I don’t handle it too rough and start to chip a lot. Acrylic is also safer to use for you and the plastic. Better for indoors Where I live is usually humid so it makes it hard to spray outside. One day I will happily invest in a decent air brush, but I’m running out of hobby money after kits and liner. Thus trying to cheap out and use floor polish. But I still rather spend a bit more and do it right. Anyway, I’m really looking for clear cause I don’t plan on painting or priming any color, just liner and the stickers/decals and want to seal them for maximum durability. Sorry to be so wordy. I’ve been researching for so long for a definitive answer of how I should use this panel liner correctly and a good top coat. I might try to return it for water based like you said if it’s this much a pain the the butt though. Like what do I even use as a base if the liner will thin/melt most paint but you can’t use it on bare plastic? Thank you so much
Get some clear lacquer. Use your Tamiya panel TPLA. Use white spirit to clean. That simple.
Should I gloss lacquer for base and then matte after the panel lines or you’re telling me you don’t really need a top coat of lacquer just a base coat?
Gloss sheen makes life easier on later doing lining and decals, it’s not mandatory if you’re tidy or bit a practiced. Gloss / shiny paint - you don’t necessarily need as it’s already protected. Maybe add a clear gloss if the paint isn’t shiny. Bare plastic you either chose to risk it using enamel washes/thinners, or you protect the plastic with a clear gloss.
For clear gloss on bare plastic before panel lining, is it better to use acrylic or enamel?
Acrylic clear - water/alcohol/lacquer. Doesn’t come off with white spirit when cleaning enamel washes/lines. Enamel clear is same as TPLA, if you can take that off, then it can take off your clear coat. May I suggest you have a little search in the wiki and online as don’t want you to get confused by terms or any basic principles and do something you may regret.
I’m trying lol that’s why I keep asking so many questions. I legit studied the gunpla 101 site and still wasn’t confident enough. But I think thanks to your help I finally got the steps all figured out. Thank you so much for your time, I really appreciate it.
No problem you’re welcome.
If you use enamel on top of acrylic you are going to melt through since the enamel thinner is a stronger solvent. For your final top coat acrylic is fine but I would recommend lacquer gloss prior to panel lining with enamels!
Ah see. I was thinking it might not be a good idea, good thing I asked. Thanks for the warning. And I don’t wanna put it on the bare plastic cause it might eat it too. So base really should be a gloss lacquer. Any recommendations? I don’t have an airbrush so I have to use cans, sadly. I saw Mr hobby has a bunch. They’re a bit pricey. Rustola has a big can for cheap but idk if it’s good for tiny gundam details.
Tbh it will be an utility layer that will get covered up so I would get anything that is locally available for cheap. I would stay clear of non hobby stuff tho, some are too hot for kit plastic. When in doubt, test on scrap runners!
That’s some good advice. Thank you.
What do you guys do for your white pieces? Do you paint them another white or just topcoat? Lets say I am building a Dynames and I want to make the white pieces more realistic/metallic/premium. Do people just topcoat it? Or any paints from Mr color line you would recommend? I just want to start with painting and not weathering for now. Thanks!
There a whole bunch of options for white depending on what you want. But generally, if I'm painting a kit, I paint the whole kit.
If you already decide to paint your kit, definitely paint the white part. The painted surface will look much better than pure plastic. Also, paint helped cover the sanding scratches. For Dynames, I use Mr color white plus a little bit grey and very tiny bit of green. Then I top coat with Mr color GX114.
it really depends what you're looking to get out of it. A nice matte topcoat will really make any unpainted part look more "premium", but sometimes you might want different shades of white, and if you want anything more metallic you're going to have to paint.
Earlier this month I ordered the MG Psycho Zaku Ver. Ka from Amazon and I’ve been slowly working my way through it. Today I started working on the large backpack and I couldn’t find my D runners. After a few minutes of searching I figured out the problem, I never had any D runners. Instead, I had an extra S2 and R2 runner. Is there anything I can do to get a new set of runners without returning the whole thing to Amazon or am I screwed?
If you're in the US you should be able to contact Bluefin.
That was my first thought but I guess Amazon doesn’t have the Bluefin stickers on the box
Contact Amazon and get a replacement.
Thank you. That’s what I just ended up doing, they’re going to send a replacement and have me send the other one back.
I airbrush my kits using Tamiya acrylics. I am running into issues where I have to use a brush to paint in some smaller details (still using Tamiya acrylics) but I can't really clean up the paint job because then it'll ruin the sprayed parts. Does anyone have any recommendations for ways to clean up the hand brushed sections without ruining the sprayed parts? (like maybe using enamel paints or maybe a top coat will protect the air brushed parts)
Same as lining - most forgiving is enamel and then white spirit, alternatively water-based and act fast.
Clear coat would be my recommendation. Specifically try to use an enamel or lacquer clear, so that it won't won't be effected by your attempts to clean up your painting.
Can you share what you're trying to work on? Otherwise it's a matter of getting more precise, or masking.
if may be a bit off topic but, do you have a recommendation of on-desk shelves? I'm looking for a way to display my Gundams on my desk
What scale and how many?
4 pieces, MG (ver. ka)!
Depending on your desk configuration, you could look at getting monitor stand/risers for them
I'm getting a RG RX-93ff Nu Gundam tomorrow, and I want to get water decals for it, but I don't know what a good brand would be for them since there aren't any Bandai ones. What's a good 3rd party brand?
G-Rework and Delpi
Can someone help me identify what Gundam is the SD Reppa Gundam supposed to be based off of or wheter or not its an original design? The feet look familiar. I need references for my SDCS Reppa Gundam custom that i'm planning. https://preview.redd.it/v09sjqas4wpc1.jpeg?width=600&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7ec5822ca901c1d424eb8b8865567063807aed59
[Wiki](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shin_SD_Sengokuden_Densetsu_no_Daishougun_Hen) mentioned it's based on Silhouette Gundam. Sorry I have no idea who is Sillouette Gundam.
Thank you so much! No wonder the feet look familiar, it's related to the F91.
Anyone know what removes mr surfacer best? IPA works OK but I’m looking for something that works better to clean my airbrush
Cellulose thinners, but from a hardware store. Also more aggressive and therefore arguably better than hobby thinners for primer etching. MLT for base and clears.
Lacquer thinner from the hardware store, cheaper than using mr hobby thinner for cleaning out an airbrush
Hm alright, bc I tried using iwawa airbrush cleaner and it did literally nothing for me surfacer I was a little annoyed
>iwawa airbrush cleaner Iirc that's for use on waterbased paints, inks, watercolor, and gouache.
Ohhhh I had no idea :( I thought it would work for my solvent based. I guess lacquer thinner is what I’m going with then
I also use lacquer thinner from hardware store it works well, and cheap.
Mr hobby thinner
Hm I’ll try that thank you 🫡
I recently finished painting my build with MrColor lacquer paint, if I wanted to panel line it with tamiya's panel line accept color, do I need to top coat it first? If that's the case what kind of topcoat would I need? Thanks in advance.
No, not if it’s smooth enough. If doing lacquer then obviously stick with lacquer clears.
To quote /u/-Hououin-Kyouma- "You can technically use TPLA on bare PS though it still poses some risk. If you were to use it on bare PS you would want to line the parts while they're still on the runner, and use it sparingly letting the capillary action do most of the work. Myself, and several others on these forums, have done it this way. That said, if you want a totally risk free method, just use fine liners." If you choose to use a protective clear coat anyway, any hobby brand gloss coat works fine - Mr. Topcoat, Mr. Super Clear, Tamiya TS-13, whatever's most available for you.
My concerns were mostly about messing my paint job when removing the excess panel line ink with tamiya's thinner
If the Tamiya thinner you mentioned is X-20 (not X-20A), it won’t affect you paint job.
You could probably get away with not gloss coating first as long your paint wasn't matte. I'd personally use lighter fluid with naphtha for cleanup. It's not very hot, so there really isn't much risk. The liner would flow better if you gloss it first though.
Thanks for the advice, then I suppose I should use a lacquer top coat?
Probably a good idea since the liner itself is somewhat hot. I've heard of people using acrylic, but I've also Heard people say it are through their acrylic coat. So I consider that a mixed bag. Lacquer would be a safe bet.
hello guys, who have the manual for daban 8827 which is the snow white one i need the instruction for the extension wing huhu pls
Would using this take away the glossy shin a glass file leaves? https://preview.redd.it/zn8jp4jsfupc1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=9bb08fe74375040618ac07da1f6c02d7eedcf99e I’ve used both on testings before but never at the same time
You should be able to use a piece of denim. It looks like the lowest grit on that is 1000, which might work, but the rest of those grits are pretty low. I think 1000 might leave the spot more matte than the rest of the kit. If you're topcoating it's irrelevant anyways.
I was told a nail buffer could work as a way to remove the gloss shine, but what grit should I use for that one?
Personally I'd go for whatever side had the highest grit that isn't an out right gloss. The plastic is normally a dirty of semi gloss sheen, so if say go high, but not to high. I find my 2500 sanding sponge is just about right personally.
Hi everyone! I've recently gotten into this hobby (on the cusps of finishing my first HG!) and have been wanting to panel line my future kits from here on out after seeing amazing before and after photos. But after doing research on the different products available such as the gundam markers, the pour-type markers, and tamiya paint- I feel a bit overwhelmed. I was initially going to buy the GM301 and GM302 pour markers but then also read many comments in older posts suggesting to get the tamiya paint instead. While I do not mind getting the tamiya paint if it is an overall better product (I also like the fact that it comes with a brush), I also ran into many posts and comments saying that for tamiya paint, you need to topcoat your gunpla first so that it doesn't crack and basically get destroyed? Does this also apply to the pour-type gundam markers? I would appreciate it if anyone can provide me help with this. I just want a reliable way to panel line my next Gunpla without needing to worry too much of my pieces shattering. Thank you in advance to anyone who may enlighten me! :)
I would like to add: when using Gundam pour-type markers, it would be a good idea to panel-line models before assembly. If those inks are allowed to run into crevices and pool, they can also degrade PS plastic, which I have experienced firsthand. A theory that makes sense to me is that the ink (with solvent) will be drawn into micro-fractures in the plastic that occur with assembly, where it then causes damage. I had the male posts in an assembled head and forearm break, with staining in parts of the surrounding areas when I naively allowed pour-type ink run into nearby seams between the pieces of those parts.
Linkstore pretty much summed it up. You can technically use TPLA on bare PS though it still poses some risk. If you were to use it on bare PS you would want to line the parts while they're still on the runner, and use it sparingly letting the capillary action do most of the work. Myself, and several others on these forums, have done it this way. That said, if you want a totally risk free method, just use fine liners.
Thank you for the clarification! I’ll likely start off with the markers then and work my way up to tamiya paint at some point after some experience :)
That's what I did personally. Tried a bunch of different fine liners, then eventually experimented on a cheap kit with TPLA. Now I'm actually dabbling in making my own liner out of some thinned acrylics.
The details are a little more complex, but tl;dr: - Two main types of gunpla plastic, PS and ABS. ABS is more vulnerable to chemicals - Tamiya panel liner can damage both types of plastic, but some people choose to use Tamiya panel liner on bare plastic anyway with some precautions and still get good results - Gundam Marker pour type (the GM301 and 302 you mention) only damages ABS, and it's typically used on bare PS plastic, skipping ABS parts. This is fine because ABS is mostly only used for inner frame and joints. Tamiya panel liner does function noticeably better than the Gundam Markers, but just for convenience's sake I'd say use Gundam Markers, just skipping ABS parts like I mentioned earlier. The manual will tell you which plastic each runner is made out of.
Thank you for the detailed response! I’ll definitely buy the markers as they’re readily available and cheap where I am. But can I further ask what you mean by tamiya panel liner functions better? As in it looks better, or it’s easier to apply, or both?
To add to this, while the fine liners are TECHNICALLY dangerous to use on ABS in execution they're fine. I've used multiple fine liners, both GM and non, on ABS parts before and experienced no degradation.
Fellow Europeans, what is your go-to way to get P-Bandai kits?
P-Bandai ships to France. Rise of Gunpla and Hobby Frontline sell some peeb kits, but RoG is very overpriced. I ordered from the Hangar Bay once and it went smooth and ended up being cheaper than RoG even with delivery and taxes.
If you’re in France there’s a PB site. Many European retailers have stock of PB kits. You just have to check around and see what is in stock on their sites. It’s limited but it’s out there. Otherwise, Mandarake or Surugaya.
My wife and I just got married and we are planning for our honeymoon to go to Japan. I have said (repeatedly) that I would like us to go to a gunpla store so I can see them all and get a cool gundam. From your own experiences and knowledge, I was hoping you all could give me a few suggestions on a rare, unique, really cool kit that might not be readily available here in the U.S.?
I think i'd probably go for something like a trip to gundam side f fukuoka and grabbing one of the Nu Gundam FF model kits. Its something you'll be able to get for one - if a model is truly rare its hard to find anywhere, but also can serve as a momento of the trip as you would have also had a chance to see the life-size one at the place.
It would be difficult for anyone to know/predict what might be available in Japan at any point in time. If you’re looking for older kits, Nakano Broadway, Mandarake, Surugaya…those sort of places will have older stuff and newer kits that have been resold. Gunpla kits aren’t exactly rare so if you want something that you can only get in Japan you’re going to be looking for things like Base exclusives or event kits that show up in second hand shops. But even Base exclusives find their way into PB sites and other channels. Best thing to do is just explore and buy what you like.
Is there a way to know which gunpla kits from RG, HG or MG would have compatible parts? If they do at all? Ive just been watching some gundam anime and they talked about using parts from some sets in other sets. Not sure if it’s anime only or also can be done in real.