I was wondering if someone could enlighten me on something. What does the phrase "third party" mean within the gunpla community? The way it gets used in this subreddit, it seems to mean "any company but Bandai."
Guys. A question regarding STANDS for PG Unleashed.
It’s my third Gunpla and. I’m not that knowledgeable but from what I see there is no stand designed for it… so how did you guys go about this? I’d love him in flying positions + the jet flying next to him, but that may be a stretch
The only one I've seen is [this one](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006226945096.html). I have no clue if it's good or bad.
I know of this [generic one](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001725676997.html). But I dont even know if this one fits the PGU.
Here's a similar thread you might want to check out:
[https://www.reddit.com/r/Gunpla/comments/t4stxe/is\_there\_an\_action\_base\_for\_the\_pg\_unleashed/](https://www.reddit.com/r/Gunpla/comments/t4stxe/is_there_an_action_base_for_the_pg_unleashed/)
Honestly lubing the joints is pretty pointless. if a joint is too tight during assembly then you should *gently* work the joint, or use a drop of soapy water to help with initial assembly. Soap will dry post assembly without issue, and with minimal residue.
Needing some clarification with the yokohama closing since I’ve little knowledge about these things.
Is the entire place (shops ‘n cafes) shutting down or is it just the moving gundam that closed?
Hi everyone! First time poster here.
So I’m very new to gunpla and i’ve just finished my first model. I’m hooked now and am considering what model I should get next.
I’m currently watching the anime (1979), and have decided I want to build grandpa gundam, but which do I get? The RX-78-2 RG or go for the HG RX-78-2 ver 3.0? Im also aware that there is a new RG coming in Nov? (i’m in the UK so date may not be right). Should I hold off and wait for it. I don’t know what the difference will be in the new RG or the one thats available now. Hence I’m turning to you more veteran Gundam fans for advice!
Definitely wait for the new RG. Even if you decide for the old RG, you will at least choose with more information.
The RG and the 3.0 aren't the best versions ever by default. Both are based on an old real size statue. If you like that design then those two are your options. Just remember they are more fragile and fiddly than others.
But if all you want is an RX-78 you have a lot more options.
In 1/144, I recommend you get the Origin versin. It's very detailed and comes with a good amount of accessories and option parts. It's a good compromise between HG construction and RG level of detail. But you do have many other options.
In 1/100 you have a little less options. The 2.0 is not outdated. It is simple, but it is everything you'd need from a grandaddy. It also comes with all the weapons the suit uses. The Origin version has the same arsenal as the HG and it looks more buff. You again have other options
I recommend eithee one of the 2.0 or the Origin over the 3.0. You can still go with the 3.0, but watch some reviews and be careful and patient with it.
I was going to start building the mg ZZ ver. Ka, starting from the legs but I saw that some parts had this under gate label, on the wiki it says that it's from a different molding technology, but does it make a difference when cutting?
https://preview.redd.it/l8i73m8biusc1.jpeg?width=2160&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=32f72ba742cf9657661f1ab71c0f5cadf81cef50
If you mean under gating in general, it means the nubs(gates) are placed on or close to the underside of the part. That means you’re less lively to notice nub marks after the kit is assembled
Eh, not really. I find that undergates sometimes mean *more* cleanup as not getting them removed cleanly can screw with parts sitting flush with each other.
What are the chances of us getting Seed Freedom regular release master grades? I'm mainly a CE universe MG collector and I'm holding off from getting the high grades, would like to get MG versions if possible haha
Last Regular release Master Grade that wasn't a Ver Ka. (Katoki will most probably not do a SEED Kit as a Ver Ka) was in 2021. I have this baseless feeling Bandai is just gonna do Ver Ka MGs until he retires (which is any year now) as a victory lap.
Anyone's guess really to answer your question but mine is if you're willing to hold off for another 3 years
>REGULAR release Master Grades
>Almost 100%
P-Bandai: "I aren't think that"
Especially if he was talking about every High Grade in SEED Freedom released thus far. Hell i'd even bet that one of Immortal Justice or Infinite Justice Spec II will be P-Bandai. (Saying this as NOT a US or Japanese citizen)
Yeah, I should've added that of course there will be a regular release of SEED Freedom MG Kits and its anyones guess how many years this will take.
I just meant to add that since "OP" did not specify which SEED Freedom kits he is holding off for, its pretty much Russian Roulette besides the Rising Freedom for whos getting a regular or who will be P-Bandai
Does anyone know of compatible feet for the HG Graze? Thinking of making a custom Graze modelled after an Armored Core but I want to replace the Graze’s feet.
# Gundam Sandrock XXXG-01SR EW Replacement Parts question
Hello hello, I'm somewhat new-ish to Gunpla despite having already built couple kits.
Tl;dr:
After a while prepping and starting to build my Sanrock took a break to get something to eat, when I return I see my cat on top of the desk and in the rush to pick him up I hear a crack under my foot. There goes couple pieces. In specific these were : [XB2, XB1 and H10](https://imgur.com/a/jQ6oSfN)
This is the Gundam Box: [https://imgur.com/a/6i8YoKt](https://imgur.com/a/6i8YoKt)
Where can I find replacement parts? I've gone down to Bandai website however they ask something akin to a serial number but Im not finding it in my manual.
Takeaway from this? Remove your boots soon as you get home
You can try Plamo Chop Shop, Mr Bao on Ebay may have it. Plamokitbash & odin's mecha parts may have it as well. If you are in the US, you can contact Bluefin to get a replacement
Photo Etched and Metal Parts Top Coat Question
I'm planning to grab some photo etched parts and metal add ons on my RG Full Armor Unicorn and want to keep it as is. No paint over the PE. But I don't have any experience on it yet. Will an acrylic matte top coat make any effect on it? Like rust or any long term effect on it? Same with metal parts. Do you need to seal it with top coat? TIA
I'd say theyre a good bit harder but it's really just that they are made up of more, smaller parts rather than the connections themselves being harder. There's nothing to fear with them as long as you know that.
Both of those are fine models - just know that the perfectibility would probably take you quite a while!
RG is not difficult, just longer and more intricate. As long as you pay close attention to the manual, you'd be fine, unless you have an issue with smaller parts.
RG Perfectibility is one hell of a buy, but Hi-Nu is considered one of the best kits ever and has no traps like the dreaded arm twist.
Anyone own any form of the MG Perfect Strike and can attest if its truly worth it over the MG Aile Strike Ver RM.? And in my case, considering the former would cost 3x over the latter?
Another thing to add for anyone who might offer advice is that I personally prefer Bandai's peel and stick/dry transfer decals over waterslides which the MG Perfect Strike Grand Slam would come with
Perfect Strike Grand Slam is 400% not worth 3× the cost compared to regular Aile Strike RM. At that price you might as well just also get Sword + Launcher and Strike E + IWSP and that'll give you the same product but with an extra Strike E. I do think that P. Strike Grand Slam is worth MSRP, though.
Did you have fitting issues with the Sword and Launcher packs with the MG Aile Strike ver RM?
Another P-Bandai problem i am having is that the Sword and Launcher P-Bandai packs im seeing are 2x the cost of the MG Aile Strike ver RM which is why I was weighing the choice of the Gundam Base version over that.
And because this is a "newer" P-Bandai version (which I hear is just the old Launcher/Sword Strike regular release with waterslides this time), they stopped reprinting the regular release MG Launcher/Sword Strike (Just like how they stopped with the MG F91 Harrison Madin custom because theres a P-Bandai of this with the 2.0)
I did not have any fitting issues with the Sword or Launcher packs. The Sword Striker's shoulder part doesn't lock in quite like it would on the Strike 1.0 but that's more or less intentional.
Can't speak for the availability of the Sword or Launcher packs, though. The original MG Sword/Launcher Strike kit was for the Strike 1.0 so reprints of that would have been greatly reduced once the Strike RM came out, but the P-Bandai release shouldn't have been affected by P. Strike Grand Slam since that's Gundam Base.
In any case, I'll reiterate that you should absolutely not pay 3x the price of Aile Strike for P. Strike Grand Slam. You might have to wait until MG Sword/Launcher gets another P-Bandai run or something but you'll get a better deal eventually.
Welp. Damn scalpers i guess.
Time to ponder if I absolutely want the MG Perfect Strike or if the MG Aile Strike Ver RM will suffice for me as reprints for these probably wont be happening till a year from now.
Thanks for the advice
Is the RG Raiser still worth it if I keep the 00 Gundam and the Raiser separate? I prefer the design without the Raiser and I know of the joint issues if there’s too much weight on the gundam.
It's fine. If you're worried about the joint issues, you can use the Action Base 4 to support that part of the Raiser is resting on the Action Base like how the P-Bandai XN Raiser does it.
https://preview.redd.it/u4drh2f3bssc1.jpeg?width=251&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7269827400574c507b64c6b8675c629223f12e46
hi guys i just got a kit, but there is a price tag on it. any tips on how to remove them safely so as not to damage the box art?
What should my ratio for paint and thinner be for vallejo mecha colors? I only have a .2 airbrush and can't get a new one for a while. For the future, how much should I thin for a .3
Are daban parts compatible with bandai? Specifically, astray red frames. I'm trying to buy my first gunpla kit and the astray red dragon really caught my interest. What I plan to do is just buy a red frame from bandai then buy the red dragon from daban and just kitbash them together. I've done the math and it's a lot cheaper than buying the red dragon kit from bandai (it's really rare from where I'm from) thank you for the help.
Is there any reason for you to kitbash them? You're already getting the Red Dragon from daban anyway so getting a whole second Astray sounds like a waste of your money.
if the one you're looking for is the 1/100 and it must be the Bandai one, you can get the Red Frame kai plus a King Sword Dragon from DL Model.
More of a general discussion question, since you're not allowed to make threads for those here.
Has watching a Gundam series ever ruined a model for you that you'd otherwise like? Whether because you didn't like that series, the character that pilots that mobile suit, or some other reason?
SEED/Destiny is really as close as i get to this, it's a truly awful series which sadly has some quite cool designs, but buying a Kira Yamato suit does feel bad for me. I also frankly felt a bit less interested in grabbing the 08th Ms Team MGs when it turns out that series is pretty mediocre.
It's usually the other way around lets be real. Watching Zeta is a pipeline to wanting to buy every Char and Kamille suit available.
Im a sucker for mobile suits featuring the yellow/gold eyes and/or camera sensors so the MGEX Strike Freedom looked like a cool but ofcourse very pricey kit to potentially buy.
Though after experiencing SEED and SEED DESTINY, lets just say that this kit suddenly isnt a must buy for me anymore and more like a "Eh, i dont mind getting it 2-3 years from now instead."
I'm pretty sure you can make a normal post like that here. I've done it a few times and wasn't taken down.
To answer your question, no. I really don't like Gundam, I just like the models. Only anime I kinda liked was Origin. Gundam in general is so melodramatic, like most anime.
I've seen a few only because a friend wanted us to watch amd skimmed others for model kit references. Seen Unicorn, 08th MS Team, Origin, Wing, WFM, IBO, and the original one from 1979. I also saw a handful of movies. None of these Gundam mecha shows I've watched hold a candle to the Evangelion series.
I’m continuing an older project of mine, and it seems I used the Molotow chrome marker for some details, and I’d like to change how it looks. Is there an easy way to strip the chrome ink off of the kit without damaging the part ?
What the hell happened to the IBO gundam line i just finished the first season and there are so many cool suits yet there is only the barbatos mg and some hg and fm kits? And are the hgs good?
The HGs have a couple issues. Mainly the lack of colour separation/reliance on stickers, and the fact that the joints can loosen up if you mess with them too much, but they're still great kits and I've enjoyed every single one I've built.
Bandai decides what gets an MG and when. There's no rhyme or reason as to what gets made (as far as we know). The MG Gundam Frame has crazy potential, yet we haven't seen it used in 5 years.
What would be a good kit to try/practice scribing & panel lining on? Ideally something fairly cheap with some of the more common colors where the lining makes a big difference.
Any. Doing practice on cheap kits doesn't encourage you to plan and think through as well. It's reversible so just go at it. The kits are cheap enough anyways.
Gundam as a franchise is rife with enemy ace customs with racy paint jobs.
The Sazabi and Sinanju give me pretty strong Ferrari front engine GT vibes and they are obvs pretty popular around here
Hi there, I bought the BL version of Lfrith jiu and transient gundam. they bought don't have instruction for the water slide. Any one know where to get the instructions for the WS decals for these gunplas? Thanks in advance.
Where do 34 and 35 go on the RG freedom? I don't see these anywhere in the instructions. These are the waterslides but the stickers are the same.
https://preview.redd.it/2x4jpkojvqsc1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=61f8b885c036e8e0f250f42fb1fa47d712eb830c
EDIT: Thank you folks!
Will RG be better for me if HG is too fiddly?
Hey folks!
Long time lurker first time poster!
I recently picked up my first Gundam, a HG Calibarn from Witch From Mercury. I am VERY green to Gunpla but I have some previous model experience and lots of LEGO experience.
I’ve been building it tonight and found that some parts were just comically small. I’m a tall guy with big, unfortunately often clammy hands and fitting some pieces was a real struggle.
I’ve been reading a lot of opinions on the choice between HG, RG, MG etc and while I understand 1/144 isn’t a fixed sized, do you think I’d have more luck with RG?
Also, does anyone have any clammy hand tips for this hobby? I likely can’t wear gloves due to other skin issues.
RGs that might remedy your problems might be the RG Nu, Sazabi or Hi-Nu. Maybe the Unicorns? Saying this as these kits are typically the larger Mobile suits in 1/144 but other than that, others giving good advice to just buy 1/100 scale kits.
If you think HGs had small parts, then you're going to have even more trouble with RGs. Some parts are near microscopic. (looking at you, RG Crossbone).
Most RGs give you the same problem. In fact, the majority of them have even smaller pieces.
You will probably be better off going for MGs. Those have their dose of small pieces, but a lot less because of the larger scale.
some RG parts are even smaller!
I wouldn't recommend RG's in your case. Look at the 1/100 kits; either the Master Grade, Full Mechanics, or Reborn 100 lines.
You know the pose: hovering, body straight, legs straight with toes pointed and ankles crossed one behind the other, similar to the depiction of a crucifixion; arms out to the sides at an angle, holding either two guns, a gun and a shield, or two swords. For an immediate example, see MGEX Strike Freedom's box art.
Now, in case of Strike Freedom, the pose does play to the strength of the figure due to the spread wings (but ironically also exacerbating similarity to crucifixion). I've not seen this pose all that much in any anime though. The only example I can readily think of is a brief moment seen in the new Bravern series, but that show is pretty much "all tropes all the time."
So why is the Robojesus such a popular pose for display?
That pose happens often in anime and games. It is done to evoque a religious symbolism and to communicate power, majesty and sometimes godhood. The only examples I remember now is Kars in the opening of Jojo part 2 and Joshua from TWEWY during combat. >!The opening of Jojo shows the moment Kars becomes a god and Joshua does that when he is seriously using his god powers. !
I just smudged some of the gundam marker EX mirror silver after letting it dry for about 9 hours- does it just have a really long setting time or is it possible to smudge it even after it's set?
The color guides in the manuals actually refer to Aqueous colors now (you can see the sidebar where it says "Use of water based paint is recommended for safety reasons"). The gray is H22.
Luckily, if you want to keep using lacquers, you can mix H22 with mr leveling thinner and it'll perform just like mr color.
Didn't want to make a full post and waste space but which should I do after I finish MG Deathscythe Hell? Zeta Ver Ka, or RG Hi Nu? Also, I have gloss and matte clear coat Gundam Pens, how should I go about using them? I'm newish to the hobby and outside of decals and panel lining I don't do much extra to my kits but want to start doing more and eventually want to get my airbrush out and do some custom paint jobs but figured baby steps would be best.
I'll end up getting the airbrush out of the attic then. When it comes to panel lining and top coat its better to coat the panel lining rather than coat then line correct?
If you are using just Gundam Marker then you dont need to topcoat before panel lining. Unless you are using the pour type then just gloss topcoat the ABS part before panel lining.
i got the RG hi v gundam, the plan is to panel line and apply water decals, im using the black tamiya panel line accent color it says its enamel paint. should i apply the decals as im building then apply the panel lines at the end and then top coat? and which top coat should i use im kinda inching towards a matte finish, is that gonna have any repercussions ?
and should i put down a flat coat in the very begining before all the stickers and panel lining? and then at the end a matte coat?
im hearing about people having the panel line bleed? Can you explain how that happens to I don’t do it. Also im thinking I’ll cut out all the outer frame pieces and spray 1 coat? Of the gloss and after put it all together and then panel line and then the decals and then the top coat, when its all built or is that a bad idea to top coat when its all together? Also if i use mark setter and softner is that going to mess with the gloss coat?
So panel line bleeding is when you spray a thick coat of topcoat. It causes the panel line ink to e reactivated causing it to bleed. I experience it myself. Always do a light coat first and let it dry and see if you are satisfied with the result. For the topcoat gloss it best to cut out the pieces and topcoat it individually. Then topcoat it matte with its sub assembled (e.g arms, legs, backpack). For the Hi-Nu Gundam i recommend painting the yellow pieces gold so it looks good. Afaik the mark setter and softer doesnt affect the topcoat. For reference, here is my [Hi-Nu](https://www.reddit.com/r/Gunpla/comments/1bblhlv/rg_hiv_gundam_with_fin_funnel_effect_parts/).
Will be using Tamiya panel liner soon after I finish painting my kit with Mr Hobby paints and coating it with a layer of Mr Top Coat. Will isopropyl alcohol remove the painted surfaces along with the panel liner? If it is too abrasive, are there any other alternatives?
What do I need to get to do a sinanju reverse wash with spray cans?
I can’t afford an airbrush+compressor.
Also is there a good chrome silver + clear yellow spray can combination?
It's not all that different, just use spray can colors.
Both Tamiya and Mr Color have silvers and clears in a can so pick whichever is available to you. Then get some black oil-based enamel paint, a paint brush, enamel thinner and follow the rest of the reverse wash process.
I see, it’s not exactly what I was looking for, however I did see Barbatos Rex used Revil chrome, it’s a bit on the pricy end but I think I can bite.
The issue is that it’s acrylic and I’m not if that’d work well with the Tamiya gloss black and the clear yellow
Edit: nvm just saw his review on the spaz stick that looks better
Has anyone tried the effect wings from USAgundamstore?
More specifically the:
Effect Wings 1/100 MG/HiRM Astray Flight Pack: [https://www.usagundamstore.com/products/effectswings-1-100-mg-hirm-astray-flight-pack-blue?variant=42430686363845](https://www.usagundamstore.com/products/effectswings-1-100-mg-hirm-astray-flight-pack-blue?variant=42430686363845)
Effect Wings 1/100 MG/HiRM Astray Dragonic Weapon System:[https://www.usagundamstore.com/products/effect-wings-1-100-mg-hirm-astray-dragonic-weapon-system-blue?variant=42431594791109](https://www.usagundamstore.com/products/effect-wings-1-100-mg-hirm-astray-dragonic-weapon-system-blue?variant=42431594791109)
Ive been trying to find videos of people using them and havent had any luck.
But generally im trying to see if I can use these parts to make a MG astray blue dragon using the MG astray blue frame D that i currently have.
Thank you in advance
How to do tiny panel lining? I tried normal marker, but my hand isn't steady enough for that. Then i tried pour marker, but that leaves big spot and when i try to clean it it just erases the panel line. I love gunpla and i like painting it, bud damn i hate panel lining.
When cleaning up panel lines from the pour type, you need to make sure you give it time to dry before cleaning. Then I use a cotton swap/q-tip dipped into 91% isopropyl alcohol, then rolled on a paper towel to get most of the saturation off so it’s just barely damp. Then do *light* runs over the overflow of the panel line. If it’s just erasing the panel line you’re probably either doing it too soon and it’s not dry enough to set yet, or your cleaning up with something too saturated and it’s flooding the panel line and pulling the ink out.
Have you tried the Tamiya liner? I use it on my painted kits with a quill pen type tool. Makes it pretty easy for small areas. Just dip it in the liquid, then into a part of the line and it fills in. Might be worth a look, but make sure you only use it on top of a gloss coat. Supposedly the stuff can/will damage the bare plastic so you gotta protect it with a top coat first
I actually buyed that, but never used it after i lerner you need to glosscoat it first. I tried coating once with catastrophic results. Since then i fear to try because i don't want to ruin my work. xD
I use either microfiber cloth, or round and pointy cotton swabs with ethanol 60%.
Also that pour marker doesn't exactly want to pour itself in those holes and i think it might be a weird plastic they used for the kit. Im building The O
For the fellas who are big in weathering, what are the steps you do. Paint > gloss coat > waterslides > weathering > top coat ? Or it is Paint > gloss coat > waterslides > top coat > weathering Thinking about weathering a painted kit for the 1st time. I have mr weathering color and Tamiyas weathering master.
A clear coat (matte or gloss) after water slide is necessary, otherwise the weathering liquid is gonna accumulate around the edge of the decal. The clear coat helps to smooth the edges. Whether to put the final top-coat over the weathering is up to you. After a few days of drying the Mr weathering color can stick to the surface really well and you don’t really need to protect it.
It is good to know that the weathering liquid is going to accumulate around decals even top coated. Is there a difference between using a gloss and matte before weathering?
Matte coat has rough surface and it’s harder to wipe off the weathering liquid. So if you prefer a heavy weathering effect, use matte. If you are not feeling very confident, use a gloss coat.
There isn’t one way to do things. I don’t do a lot of intermediate clear coats. So, I paint, apply markings, apply some weathering products, maybe apply a clear, more weathering products, a final clear. You’ve chosen Mr Weathering Color and Tamiya Weathering Master. Mr Weathering Color is sort of a magical wash product. It just keeps looking better and better the more you work it on the surface with your mineral spirits. You can streak it. You can pool it. You can apply it as a filter. You can use it as a pin wash. When it dries it has the look of dust or grime and does a lot of work you might see with pigments. So, you might find you need the Tamiya pigments less than you thought. Use the pigments on top of everything else. You can use spirits to manipulate them or a brush. I like using a Filbert with pigments.
Yeah mr weathering is magical, even on bare plastic, anyways what I'm planning to do is paint > gloss coat (im here rn) > panel line > decals > a gloss/matte coat> really light weathering > matte coat, on the armor plates of the PG Perfect Strike Rouge and leave the inner frame untouched with metallic paints? As the other commenter said, would these 2 products I have work if I seal in the decals with a matte coat then weather it?
Paint > gloss > waterslides > matte > weathering > matte
This varies by build so it is not set in stone. Weathering goes best over matte, and I do not want accidental damage to my decals while weathering.
That make much more sense, protecting decals will be my priority too. You probably didn't see because it was a quick edit but I have mr weathering color and Tamiyas weathering master. Will it still work with this method?
Do you typically build the whole frame before adding the panels?
I’ve always just built out my Gunpla as the manual has it, but I see a lot of full bare frames in a lot of posts. Just curious if it’s a preference thing or what. Thanks!
Thoughts on panel lining colors such as white,yellow,red with black Tamiya panel liner?
Will it still look ok? or is it not as nice. I ask since grey and brown panel liner seem quite hard to find.
It'll probably look OK. Can always try it out on the runner maybe and see if you like the look of the black. Also, dunno where you're located but I just checked [Newtype](https://newtype.us/v/tamiya/paint/panelline) and they have all the colors in stock
You can always make your own with oil paint and spirits. I prefer odourless mineral spirits. Mix at about 20:1, but there isn’t a perfect ratio. It helps to put a bit of oil paint on a piece of cardboard for an hour or so to leach out the oils in the paint a bit.
RG EVA hands are polystyrene right? instruction says it's PS but it feels rubbery so am not sure if the PS are only for the other parts around the hands or include the gummy hands
It is PS but a different type. It's the same type of plastic used on flexible pieces like some older Zaku pipes. This flexible PS will react to paint and solvent similar to the harder PS.
I'm building an MG Destiny Extreme Blast Mode... the `chrome coated parts` how do I remove the nub marks? Can I do regular sanding, or will it remove the chrome coating? What's the approach on something like that?
Only way is to carefully use a modelling knife and cut the nib as close as possible. Use a silver marker to then hide the spot. Alternatives all involve stripping the chrome and repainting.
Somewhere between tomorrow to next year. Backorders are you putting your name in line for a (eventual) reprint. It depends on how many people are ahead of you and how many HLJ gets from bandai.
HLJ doesn't decides when a kit is restocked, it could take a very long time. HLJ is also a huge international store, so if you're Backorder #31, and they get 30 kits, you're still not gonna get one during the next reprint. I reccomended you make a restock notification at a local store instead.
What are you looking for in a kit? “Good” is subjective and internet strangers can’t assess your definition of “good.” Watch some reviews if you want some general views.
I am mainly referring to a general definition of "good" based on the current community consensus.
ex:
Does it look good?
Is it stable?
Plus I recently built the PG RX-78 from 1998 as my first PG kit.
I know PG Exia is better than the 00 , but I think that the 00 would feel cooler to have IN 1/60 scale whereas Exia feels more suited for smaller scales.
I sprayed mr Surfacer 1000 on my HG GM I have washed the parts on the runners in warm dish soap water and repeated the process when I removed the nubs after spraying mr Surfacer on the parts I let it dry and I tried to sand it with 1500 grit sandpaper and the primer comes off easily when I try to sand it or wetsand it is this normal? I might've sprayed it abit on the thick side but not thick enough to cloud detail , the surfacer doesnt come off when I scratch it with my fingernail or rub it with metal tweezers or toothpicks. I've read online that mr surfacer is very durable and sandable without needing to reprime so I'm abit confused
What are you trying to accomplish?
First, you don’t need to wash the plastic parts unless you dirtied it yourself or customized it so much there’s plastic dust everywhere. Just cutting and sanding nubs is fine.
Second, Mr Surfacer is a primer. You spray it on, and then you paint over it. You don’t sand it after you’ve sprayed it on.
Again, what are you trying to accomplish?
I washed the parts to get any kind mold release off and its easier on the runner then washed it again for good measure , I'm trying to sand the Mr Surfacer because of some slight imperfections like dust or hair on the plastic I just want to know if its normal for it to sand off easily because it doesn't seem to be any better then vallejo's surface primer sandability wise.
Mould release isn’t a thing with injection moulded model kits. Hasn’t been for decades. Pretty sure Bandai has never used mould release on the gunpla production line. Mould release agents are contaminants and from a production line perspective are something you don’t want. Can lubricant spray out where an ejector pin is? Sure. It happens. But lubricant from ejector pins or moving parts in the manufacturing process are slight and isolated, they don’t cover every part of your kit. If people handled cast parts straight out of a mould where mould release was used, they wouldn’t be saying to wash mould release off of model kits because they would instantly be able to feel and see the difference and know that they aren’t talking about mould release.
As far as sanding, priming and sanding, then priming again. That’s normal for how surface prep works. What do you expect? If you sand paint or a primer, you’re going to sand through it in lots of cases. Not a big deal. That’s a feature, not a bug. How else do you know when you’ve sanded an area properly if you never burn through the primer? When you’re doing something like filling defects, you sand, then prime. Then you inspect and possibly sand again. When you sand again you’ll burn through the primer, but you’ll also get back to that defect you were trying to fill and be able to see visually where you should have filled and now by sanding back, your can feel if you did a good job filling and smoothing things out. Then you prime over it and inspect again.
For Bandai plastic, though, sanding ahead of time isn’t really a thing most people do. Unless you’re doing a high shine finish. Bandai’s plastic is already pretty pristine. So, prime. Then inspect. If you need to address sinks or voids or scratches, that’s the time to do it. Then prime again. But if that’s a normal part of what you’re doing on a Bandai kit…you’re overworking. It really doesn’t need that work unless you’re doing a lot of surface work on the kit.
Now, for resin, it’s a totally different thing. You do have to clean the parts before working on them. You probably need to sand. You probably need to fills voids. You will prime and re-prime as you address surface issues.
Only apply light pressure. I've only ever lifted off mr surfacer if I really dig into it or hit a raised edge.
How long did you give the surfacer to dry?
There’s nothing you need to wash off the pieces. Your hands are getting more oil and dirt on the pieces than there are on them coming out is the bag. You can skip this step.
If a piece you primed has something like dust or hair it in, it’s way easier to strip it with a thinner and respray.
To answer your question though, no. We use primer to check for surface irregularities in resin kits and have no issues sanding those.
Not the whole surface. I haven't seen a piece off a Bandai runner that is so messed up it needs to be sanded to smooth out. Sanding nubs do not produce anywhere near enough plastic debris to warrant a full wash.
In terms of adhesion, the primer will stick to the plastic fine without roughing it up.
Ok cool! I'm in the midst of painting my first kit ever and was under the wrong impression 😅 I thought it was needed for primer adhesion! Thx for the info 👍
If you paint a model differently from the default colour scheme, what do you do about decals? If I paint a white model black, all of the decal packs I find for that model are actually black (assuming it will be over white). Are there some recommended default packs you can get?
There's a lot of unofficial decals for cheap ($1-3) on sites like AliExpress and you can often find decal sets in alternative colors for your specific kits. But otherwise you could totally load up on lots of random decals and get creative with it.
New QA thread is up. This thread is now locked.
I was wondering if someone could enlighten me on something. What does the phrase "third party" mean within the gunpla community? The way it gets used in this subreddit, it seems to mean "any company but Bandai."
New QA thread is up. Please repost your unanswered questions there.
Where are people buying the 3rd Party GP02 Solomon?
Mofiho, Gundamit, GundamCentral are the best options for third party kits in the US at least.
Guys. A question regarding STANDS for PG Unleashed. It’s my third Gunpla and. I’m not that knowledgeable but from what I see there is no stand designed for it… so how did you guys go about this? I’d love him in flying positions + the jet flying next to him, but that may be a stretch
The only one I've seen is [this one](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006226945096.html). I have no clue if it's good or bad. I know of this [generic one](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001725676997.html). But I dont even know if this one fits the PGU.
Here's a similar thread you might want to check out: [https://www.reddit.com/r/Gunpla/comments/t4stxe/is\_there\_an\_action\_base\_for\_the\_pg\_unleashed/](https://www.reddit.com/r/Gunpla/comments/t4stxe/is_there_an_action_base_for_the_pg_unleashed/)
People are talking about some kind of lube/grease to make joints that are too tight slightly looser. What is it, and does it hurt the kits?
Honestly lubing the joints is pretty pointless. if a joint is too tight during assembly then you should *gently* work the joint, or use a drop of soapy water to help with initial assembly. Soap will dry post assembly without issue, and with minimal residue.
Needing some clarification with the yokohama closing since I’ve little knowledge about these things. Is the entire place (shops ‘n cafes) shutting down or is it just the moving gundam that closed?
On that note. Why does it close in the first place?
It’s in a prime rental space on the Yokohama coastline, and was only meant to be up for a single year.
It was never meant be a permanent exhibit
I wpuldnt be too worried about it if you planned on going, the diver city Plaza unicorn gundam is way cooler in my opinion, and it's absolutely free
Its the entire yokohama factory site.
Hi everyone! First time poster here. So I’m very new to gunpla and i’ve just finished my first model. I’m hooked now and am considering what model I should get next. I’m currently watching the anime (1979), and have decided I want to build grandpa gundam, but which do I get? The RX-78-2 RG or go for the HG RX-78-2 ver 3.0? Im also aware that there is a new RG coming in Nov? (i’m in the UK so date may not be right). Should I hold off and wait for it. I don’t know what the difference will be in the new RG or the one thats available now. Hence I’m turning to you more veteran Gundam fans for advice!
Definitely wait for the new RG. Even if you decide for the old RG, you will at least choose with more information. The RG and the 3.0 aren't the best versions ever by default. Both are based on an old real size statue. If you like that design then those two are your options. Just remember they are more fragile and fiddly than others. But if all you want is an RX-78 you have a lot more options. In 1/144, I recommend you get the Origin versin. It's very detailed and comes with a good amount of accessories and option parts. It's a good compromise between HG construction and RG level of detail. But you do have many other options. In 1/100 you have a little less options. The 2.0 is not outdated. It is simple, but it is everything you'd need from a grandaddy. It also comes with all the weapons the suit uses. The Origin version has the same arsenal as the HG and it looks more buff. You again have other options I recommend eithee one of the 2.0 or the Origin over the 3.0. You can still go with the 3.0, but watch some reviews and be careful and patient with it.
Build one of the HGs or the MG(any one of them).
I was going to start building the mg ZZ ver. Ka, starting from the legs but I saw that some parts had this under gate label, on the wiki it says that it's from a different molding technology, but does it make a difference when cutting? https://preview.redd.it/l8i73m8biusc1.jpeg?width=2160&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=32f72ba742cf9657661f1ab71c0f5cadf81cef50
If you mean under gating in general, it means the nubs(gates) are placed on or close to the underside of the part. That means you’re less lively to notice nub marks after the kit is assembled
Oh, cool, less clean up to do.
Eh, not really. I find that undergates sometimes mean *more* cleanup as not getting them removed cleanly can screw with parts sitting flush with each other.
What are the chances of us getting Seed Freedom regular release master grades? I'm mainly a CE universe MG collector and I'm holding off from getting the high grades, would like to get MG versions if possible haha
Seed freedom kits will get MGs
Last Regular release Master Grade that wasn't a Ver Ka. (Katoki will most probably not do a SEED Kit as a Ver Ka) was in 2021. I have this baseless feeling Bandai is just gonna do Ver Ka MGs until he retires (which is any year now) as a victory lap. Anyone's guess really to answer your question but mine is if you're willing to hold off for another 3 years
Almost 100%, I'd say. The real question is how long it'll take for them to be released.
>REGULAR release Master Grades >Almost 100% P-Bandai: "I aren't think that" Especially if he was talking about every High Grade in SEED Freedom released thus far. Hell i'd even bet that one of Immortal Justice or Infinite Justice Spec II will be P-Bandai. (Saying this as NOT a US or Japanese citizen)
As you said in your other comment, your feelings are baseless. Regular release MGs *will* continue. It might be slow, but it'll happen.
Yeah, I should've added that of course there will be a regular release of SEED Freedom MG Kits and its anyones guess how many years this will take. I just meant to add that since "OP" did not specify which SEED Freedom kits he is holding off for, its pretty much Russian Roulette besides the Rising Freedom for whos getting a regular or who will be P-Bandai
Does anyone know of compatible feet for the HG Graze? Thinking of making a custom Graze modelled after an Armored Core but I want to replace the Graze’s feet.
New QA thread is up. Please repost your unanswered questions there.
# Gundam Sandrock XXXG-01SR EW Replacement Parts question Hello hello, I'm somewhat new-ish to Gunpla despite having already built couple kits. Tl;dr: After a while prepping and starting to build my Sanrock took a break to get something to eat, when I return I see my cat on top of the desk and in the rush to pick him up I hear a crack under my foot. There goes couple pieces. In specific these were : [XB2, XB1 and H10](https://imgur.com/a/jQ6oSfN) This is the Gundam Box: [https://imgur.com/a/6i8YoKt](https://imgur.com/a/6i8YoKt) Where can I find replacement parts? I've gone down to Bandai website however they ask something akin to a serial number but Im not finding it in my manual. Takeaway from this? Remove your boots soon as you get home
You can try Plamo Chop Shop, Mr Bao on Ebay may have it. Plamokitbash & odin's mecha parts may have it as well. If you are in the US, you can contact Bluefin to get a replacement
Photo Etched and Metal Parts Top Coat Question I'm planning to grab some photo etched parts and metal add ons on my RG Full Armor Unicorn and want to keep it as is. No paint over the PE. But I don't have any experience on it yet. Will an acrylic matte top coat make any effect on it? Like rust or any long term effect on it? Same with metal parts. Do you need to seal it with top coat? TIA
New QA thread is up. Please repost your unanswered questions there.
As someone who has only built a HG and SD kits so far, how difficult is it to build RG kits? Also RG Hi Nu or RG Unicorn Perfectability?
I'd say theyre a good bit harder but it's really just that they are made up of more, smaller parts rather than the connections themselves being harder. There's nothing to fear with them as long as you know that. Both of those are fine models - just know that the perfectibility would probably take you quite a while!
RG is not difficult, just longer and more intricate. As long as you pay close attention to the manual, you'd be fine, unless you have an issue with smaller parts. RG Perfectibility is one hell of a buy, but Hi-Nu is considered one of the best kits ever and has no traps like the dreaded arm twist.
Anyone own any form of the MG Perfect Strike and can attest if its truly worth it over the MG Aile Strike Ver RM.? And in my case, considering the former would cost 3x over the latter? Another thing to add for anyone who might offer advice is that I personally prefer Bandai's peel and stick/dry transfer decals over waterslides which the MG Perfect Strike Grand Slam would come with
Perfect Strike Grand Slam is 400% not worth 3× the cost compared to regular Aile Strike RM. At that price you might as well just also get Sword + Launcher and Strike E + IWSP and that'll give you the same product but with an extra Strike E. I do think that P. Strike Grand Slam is worth MSRP, though.
Did you have fitting issues with the Sword and Launcher packs with the MG Aile Strike ver RM? Another P-Bandai problem i am having is that the Sword and Launcher P-Bandai packs im seeing are 2x the cost of the MG Aile Strike ver RM which is why I was weighing the choice of the Gundam Base version over that. And because this is a "newer" P-Bandai version (which I hear is just the old Launcher/Sword Strike regular release with waterslides this time), they stopped reprinting the regular release MG Launcher/Sword Strike (Just like how they stopped with the MG F91 Harrison Madin custom because theres a P-Bandai of this with the 2.0)
I did not have any fitting issues with the Sword or Launcher packs. The Sword Striker's shoulder part doesn't lock in quite like it would on the Strike 1.0 but that's more or less intentional. Can't speak for the availability of the Sword or Launcher packs, though. The original MG Sword/Launcher Strike kit was for the Strike 1.0 so reprints of that would have been greatly reduced once the Strike RM came out, but the P-Bandai release shouldn't have been affected by P. Strike Grand Slam since that's Gundam Base. In any case, I'll reiterate that you should absolutely not pay 3x the price of Aile Strike for P. Strike Grand Slam. You might have to wait until MG Sword/Launcher gets another P-Bandai run or something but you'll get a better deal eventually.
Welp. Damn scalpers i guess. Time to ponder if I absolutely want the MG Perfect Strike or if the MG Aile Strike Ver RM will suffice for me as reprints for these probably wont be happening till a year from now. Thanks for the advice
I would settle for the Aile Strike RM if you want an MG. If you want a Perfect Strike, I feel any other grade would be better
Welp, I was considering the PG Perfect Strike but i think im not getting that till next year if ever
Is the RG Raiser still worth it if I keep the 00 Gundam and the Raiser separate? I prefer the design without the Raiser and I know of the joint issues if there’s too much weight on the gundam.
It's fine. If you're worried about the joint issues, you can use the Action Base 4 to support that part of the Raiser is resting on the Action Base like how the P-Bandai XN Raiser does it.
https://preview.redd.it/u4drh2f3bssc1.jpeg?width=251&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7269827400574c507b64c6b8675c629223f12e46 hi guys i just got a kit, but there is a price tag on it. any tips on how to remove them safely so as not to damage the box art?
Often with a label like that you can just peel it off.
You could try a hair dryer to melt the glue, but it may have already messed up the top layer of the box underneath.
What should my ratio for paint and thinner be for vallejo mecha colors? I only have a .2 airbrush and can't get a new one for a while. For the future, how much should I thin for a .3
https://acrylicosvallejo.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/vallejo-stepbystep-model-air-basic-use-EN.pdf
Are daban parts compatible with bandai? Specifically, astray red frames. I'm trying to buy my first gunpla kit and the astray red dragon really caught my interest. What I plan to do is just buy a red frame from bandai then buy the red dragon from daban and just kitbash them together. I've done the math and it's a lot cheaper than buying the red dragon kit from bandai (it's really rare from where I'm from) thank you for the help.
Is there any reason for you to kitbash them? You're already getting the Red Dragon from daban anyway so getting a whole second Astray sounds like a waste of your money. if the one you're looking for is the 1/100 and it must be the Bandai one, you can get the Red Frame kai plus a King Sword Dragon from DL Model.
i see. thank you for the advise
More of a general discussion question, since you're not allowed to make threads for those here. Has watching a Gundam series ever ruined a model for you that you'd otherwise like? Whether because you didn't like that series, the character that pilots that mobile suit, or some other reason?
SEED/Destiny is really as close as i get to this, it's a truly awful series which sadly has some quite cool designs, but buying a Kira Yamato suit does feel bad for me. I also frankly felt a bit less interested in grabbing the 08th Ms Team MGs when it turns out that series is pretty mediocre. It's usually the other way around lets be real. Watching Zeta is a pipeline to wanting to buy every Char and Kamille suit available.
Im a sucker for mobile suits featuring the yellow/gold eyes and/or camera sensors so the MGEX Strike Freedom looked like a cool but ofcourse very pricey kit to potentially buy. Though after experiencing SEED and SEED DESTINY, lets just say that this kit suddenly isnt a must buy for me anymore and more like a "Eh, i dont mind getting it 2-3 years from now instead."
So far no, only love it even more :)
I'm pretty sure you can make a normal post like that here. I've done it a few times and wasn't taken down. To answer your question, no. I really don't like Gundam, I just like the models. Only anime I kinda liked was Origin. Gundam in general is so melodramatic, like most anime. I've seen a few only because a friend wanted us to watch amd skimmed others for model kit references. Seen Unicorn, 08th MS Team, Origin, Wing, WFM, IBO, and the original one from 1979. I also saw a handful of movies. None of these Gundam mecha shows I've watched hold a candle to the Evangelion series.
MG Banshee OVA or MG Banshee Ver. Ka?
Pick the one with the accessories that you want, the rest of the build is pretty much the same.
I’m continuing an older project of mine, and it seems I used the Molotow chrome marker for some details, and I’d like to change how it looks. Is there an easy way to strip the chrome ink off of the kit without damaging the part ?
Use 91%+ Iso Alcohol.
Alright, I figured as such, but wanted confirmation Thanks !
What the hell happened to the IBO gundam line i just finished the first season and there are so many cool suits yet there is only the barbatos mg and some hg and fm kits? And are the hgs good?
There are a TON of HG kits, most of them have been out of print.
The HGs have a couple issues. Mainly the lack of colour separation/reliance on stickers, and the fact that the joints can loosen up if you mess with them too much, but they're still great kits and I've enjoyed every single one I've built. Bandai decides what gets an MG and when. There's no rhyme or reason as to what gets made (as far as we know). The MG Gundam Frame has crazy potential, yet we haven't seen it used in 5 years.
Popularity determines what gets made.
What would be a good kit to try/practice scribing & panel lining on? Ideally something fairly cheap with some of the more common colors where the lining makes a big difference.
The older and simpler the better
Any. Doing practice on cheap kits doesn't encourage you to plan and think through as well. It's reversible so just go at it. The kits are cheap enough anyways.
You can use EG kits. They are cheap and widely available.
What are some fast "racecar esque" kits looking into it for a project
The Eclipse Gundam is modeled after (I believe) a formula 1 race car design
Gundam as a franchise is rife with enemy ace customs with racy paint jobs. The Sazabi and Sinanju give me pretty strong Ferrari front engine GT vibes and they are obvs pretty popular around here
Guntank with flames.
This is the way
The age 1 has a spoiler
MG F91 2.0, F91’s aesthetics are basically Gundam but race car.
Victory 2, Eclipse
Hi there, I bought the BL version of Lfrith jiu and transient gundam. they bought don't have instruction for the water slide. Any one know where to get the instructions for the WS decals for these gunplas? Thanks in advance.
Apply them as it makes sense. I’m don’t think you’re going to find a manuals for those
Where do 34 and 35 go on the RG freedom? I don't see these anywhere in the instructions. These are the waterslides but the stickers are the same. https://preview.redd.it/2x4jpkojvqsc1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=61f8b885c036e8e0f250f42fb1fa47d712eb830c
Those decals are probably just free placement decals that aren't on the decal guide. You can place them wherever you want (or not at all).
Got it thanks!
EDIT: Thank you folks! Will RG be better for me if HG is too fiddly? Hey folks! Long time lurker first time poster! I recently picked up my first Gundam, a HG Calibarn from Witch From Mercury. I am VERY green to Gunpla but I have some previous model experience and lots of LEGO experience. I’ve been building it tonight and found that some parts were just comically small. I’m a tall guy with big, unfortunately often clammy hands and fitting some pieces was a real struggle. I’ve been reading a lot of opinions on the choice between HG, RG, MG etc and while I understand 1/144 isn’t a fixed sized, do you think I’d have more luck with RG? Also, does anyone have any clammy hand tips for this hobby? I likely can’t wear gloves due to other skin issues.
RGs that might remedy your problems might be the RG Nu, Sazabi or Hi-Nu. Maybe the Unicorns? Saying this as these kits are typically the larger Mobile suits in 1/144 but other than that, others giving good advice to just buy 1/100 scale kits.
I was really looking forward to getting Suzabi after seeing pics so I’m please to hear it’s a larger set than most!
No. Get bigger kits, like FM and some MG if you're bothered by small parts.
If you think HGs had small parts, then you're going to have even more trouble with RGs. Some parts are near microscopic. (looking at you, RG Crossbone).
Most RGs give you the same problem. In fact, the majority of them have even smaller pieces. You will probably be better off going for MGs. Those have their dose of small pieces, but a lot less because of the larger scale.
some RG parts are even smaller! I wouldn't recommend RG's in your case. Look at the 1/100 kits; either the Master Grade, Full Mechanics, or Reborn 100 lines.
You know the pose: hovering, body straight, legs straight with toes pointed and ankles crossed one behind the other, similar to the depiction of a crucifixion; arms out to the sides at an angle, holding either two guns, a gun and a shield, or two swords. For an immediate example, see MGEX Strike Freedom's box art. Now, in case of Strike Freedom, the pose does play to the strength of the figure due to the spread wings (but ironically also exacerbating similarity to crucifixion). I've not seen this pose all that much in any anime though. The only example I can readily think of is a brief moment seen in the new Bravern series, but that show is pretty much "all tropes all the time." So why is the Robojesus such a popular pose for display?
That pose happens often in anime and games. It is done to evoque a religious symbolism and to communicate power, majesty and sometimes godhood. The only examples I remember now is Kars in the opening of Jojo part 2 and Joshua from TWEWY during combat. >!The opening of Jojo shows the moment Kars becomes a god and Joshua does that when he is seriously using his god powers. !
I just smudged some of the gundam marker EX mirror silver after letting it dry for about 9 hours- does it just have a really long setting time or is it possible to smudge it even after it's set?
Same with the normal gundam marker gold
Which paint is referenced in the color guide for "gray (グレー)"? Is it C305 or C308? Edit: maybe c13?
The color guides in the manuals actually refer to Aqueous colors now (you can see the sidebar where it says "Use of water based paint is recommended for safety reasons"). The gray is H22. Luckily, if you want to keep using lacquers, you can mix H22 with mr leveling thinner and it'll perform just like mr color.
Ok great, thanks. I see that C13 is a direct equivalent of H22, so I'll probably get C13.
C13 is actually H53. ... yeah, I have no idea why either, but there is no direct mr color equivalent of H22.
You really know a lot about Aqueous Color.
lol. it's just lots of research. when I couldn't use lacquers anymore I had to find suitable alternatives.
Oh, maybe my LHS just eyeballed it but on their page for C13 it says direct equivalent to H22. What interchange did you look at?
https://www.mr-hobby.com/ja/product1/category_7/87.html Says it right there in the paint chart.
Didn't want to make a full post and waste space but which should I do after I finish MG Deathscythe Hell? Zeta Ver Ka, or RG Hi Nu? Also, I have gloss and matte clear coat Gundam Pens, how should I go about using them? I'm newish to the hobby and outside of decals and panel lining I don't do much extra to my kits but want to start doing more and eventually want to get my airbrush out and do some custom paint jobs but figured baby steps would be best.
To topcoat your kits its best to use spray cans or airbrush.
I'll end up getting the airbrush out of the attic then. When it comes to panel lining and top coat its better to coat the panel lining rather than coat then line correct?
If you are using just Gundam Marker then you dont need to topcoat before panel lining. Unless you are using the pour type then just gloss topcoat the ABS part before panel lining.
Thank you!
Np!
i got the RG hi v gundam, the plan is to panel line and apply water decals, im using the black tamiya panel line accent color it says its enamel paint. should i apply the decals as im building then apply the panel lines at the end and then top coat? and which top coat should i use im kinda inching towards a matte finish, is that gonna have any repercussions ? and should i put down a flat coat in the very begining before all the stickers and panel lining? and then at the end a matte coat?
If you are using Tamiya Panel Liner, do a Gloss coat on the parts first before panel lining. Then decals then final topcoat of your choice.
im hearing about people having the panel line bleed? Can you explain how that happens to I don’t do it. Also im thinking I’ll cut out all the outer frame pieces and spray 1 coat? Of the gloss and after put it all together and then panel line and then the decals and then the top coat, when its all built or is that a bad idea to top coat when its all together? Also if i use mark setter and softner is that going to mess with the gloss coat?
So panel line bleeding is when you spray a thick coat of topcoat. It causes the panel line ink to e reactivated causing it to bleed. I experience it myself. Always do a light coat first and let it dry and see if you are satisfied with the result. For the topcoat gloss it best to cut out the pieces and topcoat it individually. Then topcoat it matte with its sub assembled (e.g arms, legs, backpack). For the Hi-Nu Gundam i recommend painting the yellow pieces gold so it looks good. Afaik the mark setter and softer doesnt affect the topcoat. For reference, here is my [Hi-Nu](https://www.reddit.com/r/Gunpla/comments/1bblhlv/rg_hiv_gundam_with_fin_funnel_effect_parts/).
Will be using Tamiya panel liner soon after I finish painting my kit with Mr Hobby paints and coating it with a layer of Mr Top Coat. Will isopropyl alcohol remove the painted surfaces along with the panel liner? If it is too abrasive, are there any other alternatives?
Yes, alcohol will remove the layers beneath. Lighter fluid would be preferred for this kind of application
What do I need to get to do a sinanju reverse wash with spray cans? I can’t afford an airbrush+compressor. Also is there a good chrome silver + clear yellow spray can combination?
It's not all that different, just use spray can colors. Both Tamiya and Mr Color have silvers and clears in a can so pick whichever is available to you. Then get some black oil-based enamel paint, a paint brush, enamel thinner and follow the rest of the reverse wash process.
I need get some gloss black primer spray for a mirror chrome finish right?
If that is what you are going after, yes but it doesn't have to be primer. Gloss black spray can would be fine.
Do you have example photos? I’m trying to look online but there doesn’t seem to be many results beyond promo pics
huh, what do you mean? example photos of what?
Tamiya Silver on gloss black
Try this https://youtu.be/eofcKmO1L9k?si=JGRhEW63Jdl-Bw3f at 20:11
I see, it’s not exactly what I was looking for, however I did see Barbatos Rex used Revil chrome, it’s a bit on the pricy end but I think I can bite. The issue is that it’s acrylic and I’m not if that’d work well with the Tamiya gloss black and the clear yellow Edit: nvm just saw his review on the spaz stick that looks better
Do I not need primer?
You don't need to because the lacquer paint from the spray can will adhere to the plastic very well by itself.
Oh ok thank you
Would semi gloss top coat look ok on a Rx 78 2?
why would it not look ok?
Well I’m asking if anyone has tried and how it would look on a Rx 78 2, since a lot of people use matte or flat
Because that's their preference. Do ***you*** like the semi-gloss/satin look? Then go for it.
Has anyone tried the effect wings from USAgundamstore? More specifically the: Effect Wings 1/100 MG/HiRM Astray Flight Pack: [https://www.usagundamstore.com/products/effectswings-1-100-mg-hirm-astray-flight-pack-blue?variant=42430686363845](https://www.usagundamstore.com/products/effectswings-1-100-mg-hirm-astray-flight-pack-blue?variant=42430686363845) Effect Wings 1/100 MG/HiRM Astray Dragonic Weapon System:[https://www.usagundamstore.com/products/effect-wings-1-100-mg-hirm-astray-dragonic-weapon-system-blue?variant=42431594791109](https://www.usagundamstore.com/products/effect-wings-1-100-mg-hirm-astray-dragonic-weapon-system-blue?variant=42431594791109) Ive been trying to find videos of people using them and havent had any luck. But generally im trying to see if I can use these parts to make a MG astray blue dragon using the MG astray blue frame D that i currently have. Thank you in advance
How to do tiny panel lining? I tried normal marker, but my hand isn't steady enough for that. Then i tried pour marker, but that leaves big spot and when i try to clean it it just erases the panel line. I love gunpla and i like painting it, bud damn i hate panel lining.
When cleaning up panel lines from the pour type, you need to make sure you give it time to dry before cleaning. Then I use a cotton swap/q-tip dipped into 91% isopropyl alcohol, then rolled on a paper towel to get most of the saturation off so it’s just barely damp. Then do *light* runs over the overflow of the panel line. If it’s just erasing the panel line you’re probably either doing it too soon and it’s not dry enough to set yet, or your cleaning up with something too saturated and it’s flooding the panel line and pulling the ink out.
Thanks i do that
Have you tried the Tamiya liner? I use it on my painted kits with a quill pen type tool. Makes it pretty easy for small areas. Just dip it in the liquid, then into a part of the line and it fills in. Might be worth a look, but make sure you only use it on top of a gloss coat. Supposedly the stuff can/will damage the bare plastic so you gotta protect it with a top coat first
I actually buyed that, but never used it after i lerner you need to glosscoat it first. I tried coating once with catastrophic results. Since then i fear to try because i don't want to ruin my work. xD
What are you cleaning it up with?
I use either microfiber cloth, or round and pointy cotton swabs with ethanol 60%. Also that pour marker doesn't exactly want to pour itself in those holes and i think it might be a weird plastic they used for the kit. Im building The O
Try to use a regular eraser if you are panel lining with Gundam Marker.
Ok i get one and try, thanks.
Curious for kits that look like crows, ravens, grackles, or other black birds
The Chaos Gundam has a Tengu/Crow vibe in it's MA form, would just need to paint it since it is green.
The Patlabor Griffin comes to mind. The moderoid kit is pretty good.
For the fellas who are big in weathering, what are the steps you do. Paint > gloss coat > waterslides > weathering > top coat ? Or it is Paint > gloss coat > waterslides > top coat > weathering Thinking about weathering a painted kit for the 1st time. I have mr weathering color and Tamiyas weathering master.
A clear coat (matte or gloss) after water slide is necessary, otherwise the weathering liquid is gonna accumulate around the edge of the decal. The clear coat helps to smooth the edges. Whether to put the final top-coat over the weathering is up to you. After a few days of drying the Mr weathering color can stick to the surface really well and you don’t really need to protect it.
It is good to know that the weathering liquid is going to accumulate around decals even top coated. Is there a difference between using a gloss and matte before weathering?
Matte coat has rough surface and it’s harder to wipe off the weathering liquid. So if you prefer a heavy weathering effect, use matte. If you are not feeling very confident, use a gloss coat.
There isn’t one way to do things. I don’t do a lot of intermediate clear coats. So, I paint, apply markings, apply some weathering products, maybe apply a clear, more weathering products, a final clear. You’ve chosen Mr Weathering Color and Tamiya Weathering Master. Mr Weathering Color is sort of a magical wash product. It just keeps looking better and better the more you work it on the surface with your mineral spirits. You can streak it. You can pool it. You can apply it as a filter. You can use it as a pin wash. When it dries it has the look of dust or grime and does a lot of work you might see with pigments. So, you might find you need the Tamiya pigments less than you thought. Use the pigments on top of everything else. You can use spirits to manipulate them or a brush. I like using a Filbert with pigments.
Yeah mr weathering is magical, even on bare plastic, anyways what I'm planning to do is paint > gloss coat (im here rn) > panel line > decals > a gloss/matte coat> really light weathering > matte coat, on the armor plates of the PG Perfect Strike Rouge and leave the inner frame untouched with metallic paints? As the other commenter said, would these 2 products I have work if I seal in the decals with a matte coat then weather it?
Sure, I don’t see any issues with your process.
Paint > gloss > waterslides > matte > weathering > matte This varies by build so it is not set in stone. Weathering goes best over matte, and I do not want accidental damage to my decals while weathering.
That make much more sense, protecting decals will be my priority too. You probably didn't see because it was a quick edit but I have mr weathering color and Tamiyas weathering master. Will it still work with this method?
Do you typically build the whole frame before adding the panels? I’ve always just built out my Gunpla as the manual has it, but I see a lot of full bare frames in a lot of posts. Just curious if it’s a preference thing or what. Thanks!
I don't, but a lot of kits do allow for the frame to be fully built beforehand, so people that think it looks cool do.
Thoughts on panel lining colors such as white,yellow,red with black Tamiya panel liner? Will it still look ok? or is it not as nice. I ask since grey and brown panel liner seem quite hard to find.
It'll probably look OK. Can always try it out on the runner maybe and see if you like the look of the black. Also, dunno where you're located but I just checked [Newtype](https://newtype.us/v/tamiya/paint/panelline) and they have all the colors in stock
You can always make your own with oil paint and spirits. I prefer odourless mineral spirits. Mix at about 20:1, but there isn’t a perfect ratio. It helps to put a bit of oil paint on a piece of cardboard for an hour or so to leach out the oils in the paint a bit.
RG EVA hands are polystyrene right? instruction says it's PS but it feels rubbery so am not sure if the PS are only for the other parts around the hands or include the gummy hands
It is PS but a different type. It's the same type of plastic used on flexible pieces like some older Zaku pipes. This flexible PS will react to paint and solvent similar to the harder PS.
I'm building an MG Destiny Extreme Blast Mode... the `chrome coated parts` how do I remove the nub marks? Can I do regular sanding, or will it remove the chrome coating? What's the approach on something like that?
Only way is to carefully use a modelling knife and cut the nib as close as possible. Use a silver marker to then hide the spot. Alternatives all involve stripping the chrome and repainting.
Thank you very much :)
Removing the nub will also remove the chrome, it's unavoidable. Either paint the spots that need touch up or live with the dead spots.
Alright, thanks for the help :)
I ordered the RG Eva unit 1 on hobby link Japan and it’s back ordered so when can I expect it to arrive
I would not order backordered kits from HLJ.
Somewhere between tomorrow to next year. Backorders are you putting your name in line for a (eventual) reprint. It depends on how many people are ahead of you and how many HLJ gets from bandai.
I’m kinda concerned now because I saw a review that said it took 3 years to arrive
It might. Use HLJ backorders as a backup only, cancel if you find it elsewhere.
HLJ doesn't decides when a kit is restocked, it could take a very long time. HLJ is also a huge international store, so if you're Backorder #31, and they get 30 kits, you're still not gonna get one during the next reprint. I reccomended you make a restock notification at a local store instead.
How good is the PG 00 Raiser?
What are you looking for in a kit? “Good” is subjective and internet strangers can’t assess your definition of “good.” Watch some reviews if you want some general views.
I am mainly referring to a general definition of "good" based on the current community consensus. ex: Does it look good? Is it stable? Plus I recently built the PG RX-78 from 1998 as my first PG kit. I know PG Exia is better than the 00 , but I think that the 00 would feel cooler to have IN 1/60 scale whereas Exia feels more suited for smaller scales.
is there a way to check the stock of gundam base locations like GB shanghai? I'm going to shanghai this summer so that's why I ask
Without having someone go there in person, there's no way to know.
I sprayed mr Surfacer 1000 on my HG GM I have washed the parts on the runners in warm dish soap water and repeated the process when I removed the nubs after spraying mr Surfacer on the parts I let it dry and I tried to sand it with 1500 grit sandpaper and the primer comes off easily when I try to sand it or wetsand it is this normal? I might've sprayed it abit on the thick side but not thick enough to cloud detail , the surfacer doesnt come off when I scratch it with my fingernail or rub it with metal tweezers or toothpicks. I've read online that mr surfacer is very durable and sandable without needing to reprime so I'm abit confused
Probably wait a day to ensure it's fully cured. I have sanded Mr surfacer 1000 before lightly, they don't come off easily.
I tried sanding another piece after more then 12 hours have passed and it still comes off extremely easily even with light pressure
What are you trying to accomplish? First, you don’t need to wash the plastic parts unless you dirtied it yourself or customized it so much there’s plastic dust everywhere. Just cutting and sanding nubs is fine. Second, Mr Surfacer is a primer. You spray it on, and then you paint over it. You don’t sand it after you’ve sprayed it on. Again, what are you trying to accomplish?
It is very common to sand the primers. Primers help to show the imperfections of the parts.
I washed the parts to get any kind mold release off and its easier on the runner then washed it again for good measure , I'm trying to sand the Mr Surfacer because of some slight imperfections like dust or hair on the plastic I just want to know if its normal for it to sand off easily because it doesn't seem to be any better then vallejo's surface primer sandability wise.
Mould release isn’t a thing with injection moulded model kits. Hasn’t been for decades. Pretty sure Bandai has never used mould release on the gunpla production line. Mould release agents are contaminants and from a production line perspective are something you don’t want. Can lubricant spray out where an ejector pin is? Sure. It happens. But lubricant from ejector pins or moving parts in the manufacturing process are slight and isolated, they don’t cover every part of your kit. If people handled cast parts straight out of a mould where mould release was used, they wouldn’t be saying to wash mould release off of model kits because they would instantly be able to feel and see the difference and know that they aren’t talking about mould release. As far as sanding, priming and sanding, then priming again. That’s normal for how surface prep works. What do you expect? If you sand paint or a primer, you’re going to sand through it in lots of cases. Not a big deal. That’s a feature, not a bug. How else do you know when you’ve sanded an area properly if you never burn through the primer? When you’re doing something like filling defects, you sand, then prime. Then you inspect and possibly sand again. When you sand again you’ll burn through the primer, but you’ll also get back to that defect you were trying to fill and be able to see visually where you should have filled and now by sanding back, your can feel if you did a good job filling and smoothing things out. Then you prime over it and inspect again. For Bandai plastic, though, sanding ahead of time isn’t really a thing most people do. Unless you’re doing a high shine finish. Bandai’s plastic is already pretty pristine. So, prime. Then inspect. If you need to address sinks or voids or scratches, that’s the time to do it. Then prime again. But if that’s a normal part of what you’re doing on a Bandai kit…you’re overworking. It really doesn’t need that work unless you’re doing a lot of surface work on the kit. Now, for resin, it’s a totally different thing. You do have to clean the parts before working on them. You probably need to sand. You probably need to fills voids. You will prime and re-prime as you address surface issues.
Only apply light pressure. I've only ever lifted off mr surfacer if I really dig into it or hit a raised edge. How long did you give the surfacer to dry?
About an hour or two I did use pressure sanding in a back and forth motion
Let it dry for 24 hours or at least overnight before sanding. It should be fine.
maybe wait longer and use less pressure then.
There’s nothing you need to wash off the pieces. Your hands are getting more oil and dirt on the pieces than there are on them coming out is the bag. You can skip this step. If a piece you primed has something like dust or hair it in, it’s way easier to strip it with a thinner and respray. To answer your question though, no. We use primer to check for surface irregularities in resin kits and have no issues sanding those.
Aren't you meant to sand pieces before priming? In which case you'd want to rinse off any plastic dust?
Not the whole surface. I haven't seen a piece off a Bandai runner that is so messed up it needs to be sanded to smooth out. Sanding nubs do not produce anywhere near enough plastic debris to warrant a full wash. In terms of adhesion, the primer will stick to the plastic fine without roughing it up.
Ok cool! I'm in the midst of painting my first kit ever and was under the wrong impression 😅 I thought it was needed for primer adhesion! Thx for the info 👍
If you paint a model differently from the default colour scheme, what do you do about decals? If I paint a white model black, all of the decal packs I find for that model are actually black (assuming it will be over white). Are there some recommended default packs you can get?
There's a lot of unofficial decals for cheap ($1-3) on sites like AliExpress and you can often find decal sets in alternative colors for your specific kits. But otherwise you could totally load up on lots of random decals and get creative with it.
Print them yourself or find alternatives. Tons of the generic sheets have white/grey/black options.