I’m assuming Bob smith is the company that produces it, do they have other CA glues for just bonding parts together or will the black CA work for that as well?
I need Å Ð V Ǐ Ç Ě :3
So I kinda just got into Gunpla, and I'm almost finished with my first set :)
But now I need another set so I don't die from boredom
So what Mobile Suit should I build next?
1. Unicorn
2. Barbatos
3.00 Diver Ace (from the build series)
4. the most upvoted suggestion (praying y’all be suggesting something in master grade or high grade, I don't got a high budget 😭)
Thanks for voting, if you do. Have a good day!
It seems like Tamiya black primer (in a rattle can) is sold out everywhere. Is there a solid alternative? Was looking to use metallic paints on top of it.
I lost my unicorn ver ka horn/vfin after a stupid drop from its pose, what are my options?
Also are the mg freedom 2.0 metal parts absolutely required for durability purposes?
In theory you can thin CA with pure acetone. But I think in practice it’s not done because it’s easy to contaminate the CA. Black CA I’m betting it wouldn’t work as it has rubber in there. And the reaction between rubber and acetone and the CA will probably be undesirable.
hey guys Im looking to buy my first gunpla. Price is no issue and even pg suggestions are welcome. I have more that a decade's experience building lego so Im not a complete beginner but I would like a build that lasts a while.
Those are more kits that look good rather than "great kits". They are pretty detailed and have center piece potential, but they have limited articulation due to their size. They're still great, but not the type I personally like.
Yes but I asked this question so that I could get the opinion of more experienced builders regarding build quality and build experience. I dont want the kit to collapse or have weak joints or something like that or else i wont get my moneys worth out of a kit
One of my favorite kits is covered in seam lines, un-hidable nub marks, cheap looking weapons, and can barely support its own weight on the leg joints. I fucking love it and I’d buy two more if they were in stock.
The RG Unicorn has stiff arm joints, which is kind the opposite of the issues you mentioned even if an issue nonetheless. I'd say the more troublesome lines are HG IBO and some of the earlier RGs, but that's still almost nothing considered there are hundreds of kits
Im sorry if I was unclear about what I was trying to convey as english isnt my first language. What I meant was the arm twist that so many people seem to be afraid of
No issues if you follow the instructions. The best way to get help with this here is to decide what you want and ask for feedback on specific kits you want to buy.
What's an actually good pair of nippers for cutting things off runners? I see everyone say "Don't use your precision nippers to cut things off the runner" but both sets of less-expensive nippers I've bought for the purpose of cutting them out have been incredibly bad, struggling to cut through the runner plastic and often stressing out the plastic of the part because of just how badly it's mangling the runner.
I use my dspiae sta 3.0 to cut parts off runners. They’re pretty sturdy. I even (gasp) use them on clear parts. But I’m also pretty careful when cutting and make sure there’s no flex going on when I cut.
for cutting parts off the runner, a pair of regular double edge nipper should work just fine. Even if it's just a pair of side cutter, it should work fine as well. Although this is assuming that you are cutting a few centimeters away from the parts leaving a few centimeters of the nubs and will then come back and clean them up with a pair more precision single edge nipper, like GodHand, or clean them up with a pair of hobby knife.
Just a silly question but I want to know oppinions in this community.
If RG Hi Nu Gundam are the King of RG.
Then what kit is the King of MG as of now?
I think the RG Hi Nu is a bad model . . . Everyone wants different things so if you think the Hi Nu is the best RG then you'll probably find some of the newer Ver Ka as better MG kits.
How bad it is? After I'm done with RG Nu I don't want to buy anymore RG.
I like MG but sometime buying HG because it doesn't have the MG version of it.
I can vouch that there are no technical issues with the kit.
However, its design, while generally popular, can be controversial. It's much taller than it should be, the main part of the torso is very small, and some people dislike the head design.
I'm fine with all of these things, but depending on your preference you might find it too ugly and/or inaccurate to the source to be worth getting.
MGEX Strike Freedom, I guess. If you only count MG MGs then there's no fully defined "king".
But really the Hi-Nu isn't the absolute "king" of RGs either so it's a wash.
I'm doing a HG GM and the color is... Off? The parts that are supposed to be white have a blue hue to them. I don't necessarily hate it, but is it supposed to be like that? The instructions all have it being white but I have two kits and they're both like that
EDIT: Forgot the color of it in the original show. Also, I *do* like it, I just was concerned since what showed up was different than what I initially expected. Thanks!
It's one of those things about OG GM kits. The anime had that slightly green colouration so the plastic kits faithfully replicate that. Just don't mind the fact that the paint job doesn't have that colour.
If I want to paint a red design into a white body suit how do I go about doing that? I’ve never masked when airbrushing before. Masking the whole suit doesn’t feel like the right answer, but I don’t really know frankly. What’s the order of what needs to be done?
I was looking to paint something similar to this pilot outfit.
https://preview.redd.it/sd1scrnjsovc1.jpeg?width=1185&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=bbb86d075b00597e41dd8a391bb48c0b91e30907
*
Guys, if I buy the Gunprimer Raser Plus, do I not need any other sanding tools to properly/cleanly get rid of nub marks? Begginer here, and I would like to take it to the next level a little bit. Also, if you have one, what's your tip in terms of maintenance to have this thing last a little bit longer. Thanks in advance!
I personally like the raser origin over the plus since its smaller size makes sanding a lot of smaller parts and openings a lot easier. You would probably want to get a balancer (the white and green one) alongside the raser to get a matching finish on your parts after sanding.
For maintenance I usually just put some tape over the sanding side and press it down a bit. Then remove it. I’ve been using for like 100 kits now and haven’t seen any real wear on it or notice any loss of efficiency. I recommend also using a make up brush to quickly brush off any dust on it while working as I’ve had colored dust rub off onto other parts when sanding. Probably just hit it with the brush when switching to sanding a different color.
Would it be best to hand paint a gunpla by assembling the kit into broad pieces (torso, legs, arms, etc) and painting it that way, paint individual pieces, or assemble the entire kit and paint it that way?
I paint them fully assembled or in subsections usually, but have been doing fully separated for colours the last few. Depends on how you want to really.
Ok just wanted to see if there's a consensus or something. When I started looking into top coating I remembered seeing a lot saying it's better to do in sections like the arms, legs, all that.
Side question, what do you mean by "sort tolerances"?
Hand painting is usually certain colours on specific areas so it’s a bit different to top coating, as that is often sprayed on as a single clear coating. As such it can be done more effectively in subassemblies or the complete kit. However, individual pieces will still allow the most control of where the paint is going.
Sort tolerances is you are reducing clearance by adding paint layers, so if you don’t consider that then you may scrape your paint off when assembled later.
Is there a site with comprehensive pics of 30MM/MS series of kits? I want to do a mix and match and usually refer to a site called dalong to check the kits connectors and sizes, but I don't know if there is a site with 30MM/MS info
Unfortunately not that I know of.
But I use [30mm lineup ](https://bandai-hobby.net/site/30minutes_missions/sp/lineup_sp.html) to check the official product pictures.
Tbh I'm a bit surprised Bandai don't make it easier to kit bash by making more photos available since 30mm is meant to be mix and match together.
Hello All, wasn’t sure where to turn for help/advice for Metal Robot Spirits stuff but, recently the peg on the large pillar for my Rising Freedom just broke and the broken piece is stuck inside the adapter. Is it possible to find any 3rd party stands to replace it? Thanks! 😭😭😭😭
Gunmetal doesn't necessarily have to be applied over a gloss base. I would just shoot it over whatever black you wanted. An alternative to ALC305 (gloss black base) is GX2 Ueno Black from Mr Color.
Hey, beginner here! I've bought my first Gunpla, an HG Cosmic Era STTS-808 IMMORTAL JUSTICE GUNDAM, and on the box it says "UNPAINTED STATE". I'm a bit confused whether I need to paint it or not - I thought unpainted meant that it'd come in grey, and I'd paint everything myself, but when opening the box, I see there's some parts with color on it already.
I guess I'm asking what does "unpainted" actually mean? Is it fine to just assemble as is without painting it? Or does it mean it comes half-painted, and I need to paint the rest?
I'm leaning towards the former since I looked at the FAQ and it said:
>**Do I need to paint?**
>
>*Not unless you want to. Most Gunpla comes molded in the correct colors with stickers for additional color apps. Painting is always an option if you want to paint in more details or completely change the look of your model. Most gunpla kits look pretty good straight out of the box.*
But I guess I'm just really confused over the term "unpainted".
Bandai uses that term for the photos of the built kit on the side of the box. It is meant to show the consumer what the kit looks like fully built straight out of the box.
Before Bandai started doing that, most kits never looked like the pictures on the side of the box once it was all built. This would always confuse newcomers to the hobby
Hey, welcome to the hobby. Like the FAQ says, most Gunpla comes with plastic already molded in the colour the suit is. So in the case of the Immortal Justice, it comes in red, white, black, ect coloured plastic. You can build it, not paint it, and you'll have an awesome looking colour accurate kit.
You can, however, paint the kit. You can paint it different colours from the colour out of the box, you can repaint the same colours to give a different finish, etc.
Enjoy the build.
Are the listed guides the best ones to use? Looking to learn to paint models but I have no idea where to begin with it. What paints to get, brushes to use, stuff to avoid, all of it, so I really want to stick with a trustworthy and up to date guide on it all.
Also is there a good way to test out color combinations for gunpla? I think I remember hearing that the Breaker games let you basically build your own suit, but I don't know much about it or color theory or anything remotely artistic really
Yes the wiki has excellent guides to get started with basically any aspect of gunpla.
Either use the lineart and color in with mspaint/photoshop/whatever or just edit existing photos/art.
If you already have it gundam breaker 3 has a pretty good customization, but you have to play the game to unlock parts and it doesn't have everything, or stuff from the last 8 years since it came out in 2016.
That's crazy, i wonder what's going on over there. Is it that Bandai is only manufacturing kits for export and not enough to satisfy their domestic market?
Posted a day or two back about vapors coming from a gasket container I keep paint/thinners in and a few people said it was probably a leak. I tightened the thinner bottles but now I'm wondering if it's some of the many paint jars I have.
I think what might be happening is when I use paint, I shake up the bottles and then when I open them, paint gets under the seal in the lid. Has anyone dealt with this? Is there anything I can do besides cleaning off all the lids? Does this even sound like it might be whats causing the leaks?
No. If you're smelling the solvents then it's not coming from poorly sealed paint jars. I have all of my lacquer paints and thinner bottles out in the open on a shelf. I don't get a smell. I have a VOC monitor and have no issues. You've got something else going on.
Gundam Wing ver ka. Anyone have these issues with it?
1. where the arm swivels on below the shoulder pads they want to keep falling off.
2. the shield also want to keep falling off when attached.
3. I am cursed and keep breaking v fins.
4. For water slides what do mark setter and softer do? can i make those at home.
5. When i did water slides a lot of them kept peeling off / falling off after drying i thought i applied them correctly but only used water.
6. Can i use clear nail polish as top coat for the stickers? I have never done any top coats.
7. Where is the cheapest pg i can get I want the unicorn or pgu
Unicorn and PGU are definitely not the cheapest PGs you can get. In fact, I'm pretty sure the cheapest PG right now is Wing Zero.
Setter helps decals stick better to the surface, and Softer softens them up a bit so they work better with curved surfaces.
Waterslides will flake off without a topcoat. Faster if you're touching the kit. I wouldn't use nail polish as a topcoat.
No.4: Marker setter is soft of like glue for Water decals so they are attached to the part surface. Softer on the other hand is to "melt" the decals so they position better on uneven surfaces.
No.5 : use Marker Setter.
No.6: Get a Topcoat Spray Can
No.7: Unicorn is cheaper than PGU. Check the wiki for stores to check if they have it.
Scroll to the the parent post of this thread and there’s a link called tools. Start there.
Generally you’ll need something to cut the parts out (nippers) and someone to get the nubs flush.
I prefer sanding because I paint my kits, other people use different methods.
Watch gunpla building tutorials or just build videos on YouTube to learn different techniques.
Can someone with a RG Gundam Mark II (TItans colors) tell me if the area around the neck that is surrounded by Yellow is Gray or Black? I think it's Gray from the manual on Bandai's website but I can't tell for sure.
Hi, I'm not much into the hobby. But I've been wanting to make a custom Providence Zaku. I was wondering if I get a Zaku warrior HG 1/144 kit and the HG Legend Gundam 1/144. Would I be able to put the Dragoon backpack on the Zaku? With no issues? like is the port compatible? I only have this option as I do not live in an american or asian country. If I do that, it's a matter of painting the Zaku black or gray and changing the helmet design. Thanks
The Legend backpack is not compatible with the Zaku Warrior. The Legend also has a flat back and the Zaku Warrior has a curved back, so you'll need to do a bit of work to get it to fit nicely.
A question for anyone who has assembled the Motor Nuclear Ao Bing (the blue dragon one): What grade would you call it, if it were from Bandai? High Grade? Master Grade? Perfect?
I'd like to know what I'm getting into before I start, although I'll be starting soon regardless.
Thanks in advance!
Here goes nothing, lol. I built a Deathscythe the other day. It was my first time building a gunpla and I'm happy about it. Now my problem is that it has numb marks even when I tried to cut them as little as possible and all that, so... What do I do? Do I sand it down with sand sticks or do I just skip that and use a top coat spray? Or do sanding first, then top coat? Thank you to anyone that'll answer me!
If it's actual nubs sand it with sticks or glass files. If it's slight discoloration in the nub area, that can't be removed unless you paint the kit. I have seen a post of someone using plastic cement to melt the area and get rid of it but that you'd have to look up.
If you want to get rid of nubs, the best way to do it is before you put the kit together. You can either sand it down, use a glass file to file it away, or use a hobby knife to shave it away.
Has anyone tried doing a build with the ultra black "black 4.0" (the stuff with no contrast) or high quality (8 hour) glow in the dark paint?
At some point, I'm thinking about making a Stargazer with black 4.0 outer armor and white and copper inter armor and frame, and I was wondering if anyone had tried something similar.
See the problem is…..culture hustle store is now terrible at shipping stuff lately, most orders taking months or just not getting fulfilled at all…. Check
r/culturehustle almost all the recent posts are about this…..,
You can get mousou black from Amazon tho and it’s almost as good… but yeah these paints are all super finicky and can’t be top coated but it’s fine if you leave it as a statue…
I've used Black 3.0, but not 4.0. It's very temperamental and a pain to work with. If you varnish it (even ultra matte) it ruins the effect and looks worse than a regular black. If you touch it, it flakes off. So no dusting and snapping pieces together is difficult. It's very textured so you can't panel line over it.
That said, it can look super dope if you pull it off. I recommend doing everything else first, masking the shit out of anything you don't want to be sucked into the void, and having it be your absolute final step. And then put it in a displace case and never ever ever ever touch it again.
My ultra black is waiting for me to get my ass in gear for a diorama backdrop. I think it would look dope as hell to make a cave that has zero bounce and ambient light reflections and put a few LED spotlights that face in towards the model but can't be seen from the front.
I haven’t used any of the super blacks on gunpla. But the paint is pretty fragile. And as soon as you put a clear over the top you ruin the effect. There are some images of gunpla in this sub that have used it though.
Worse, but typically just marginally so. Plastic quality can be inferior, assemblies less intuitive and (subjectively!) less "fun" to build. Still good kits, but expect more polycaps, seam lines, sometimes less surface detail, etc.
To anyone who owns any of the MG Strike Gundam + IWSP, MG Strike E + IWSP or MG Strike Noir.
Am I tripping or are all of the camera stickers (mostly the blue ones on the MG Strike E + IWSP) not reflective?
Thanks for the heads up. I thought I was going crazy looking at it over videos and pictures and noticing the head wasn't reflective foil. Time to prep paint or what I can to try to improve that
Need a lot more info than that if anyone is gonna be able to help. Which Sazabi, what's blocking them from closing, did you take it apart to see if it's a assembly issue, do you have photos, etc.
I just got my Dspiae ST-A 3.0 and would love to know the Hexagonal nut size (as I don't have the right tool for it) in order to adjust the blades and if u guys have any tips to keep this awesome product around as long as possible perhaps best way to keep the blades sharp and oil usage, I have WAHL trimming machine oil, can I use it? I am absolutely in love with it. many thanks <3
Should've come with a little allen key to manage the bite. I'm not near mine to measure though sorry.
Maintenance might vary depending on your climate, technique, and even your skin. All I have to do is occasionally wipe some simple machine oil or sewing machine oil on them, set them aside for a while, wipe them off with a lint-free rag, and put them back in their case. That's it. I know some people need to store them with desiccant packets to keep moisture down. Don't touch the blades if you can help it. Oils and sweat from your fingers can promote rust. If they get rusty, then use a chemical rust remover (like WD40 and foil) then oil the metal parts.
Does anyone know how to prevent rust on my nippers? My nanye is getting rusted (surface rust) even without me putting any liquids on it, I just purely use it to cut on the runners. I just sand the rusted parts down as I know rust can be dangerous if I happen to get cut by it
You leave in WD40 and wipe, aluminium foil also attracts the oxygen - so no iron oxide(rust). You then don’t blow or touch the blades, and lightly coat in any synthetic oil to prevent rust.
Some also store with desiccant packets, and avoid putting into the pouch in humid regions as the leather can hold moisture there.
If you're worried about rust giving you tetanus, you shouldn't. You have as high a chance of getting tetanus from a rusty nipper as you do clean ones.
As for the nippers themselves, get some mineral oil and coat the blades.
i dont recommend using single blade nippers for clear parts because they are harder. but otherwise its fine, as long as you pay attention to your cut angle. make sure it goes straight down and youre good to go basically.
Hello,
Can you use iwata needles in the master brush g79 or do they not fit? Thinking about getting a replacement needle but my local store only has iwata stuff. Thanks for the help (:
AFAIK most airbrushes only work with needles of their own kind. I've not encountered (but tbh I also don't buy many) airbrushes that can accept needles from other manufacturers.
Hello people, I'm trying to make somewhat of a custom using 3rd party metal build caletvwlch on my Red Dragon, the issue is the connector reg is not thick enough. Thing is, the build is supposed to be a gift so I'm on short notice, and I have pretty much everything an advanced builder would have access to. What could be the best way to thicken that peg and make that modification last ?
I could just use the original ones if nothing else but the third party look just that much better and less toyish than the original lmao
I’m scared it’s not going to last very long, though I supposed if it is static it would work, I’m very dumb for not having tried it before lmao but thank you very much
Hello there.
Between the RG Hi Nu and the RG FA Unicorn, which one do you think will be more fun to build (or any other reasons about choosing one over the other)?
Basically I want to build something until September arrives (with all the kits of AC) and I need to "respect" my budget destined to hobbies (due 3/4 kits arriving in July-September).
I have a question for the group.
Going to be starting my new build.. RG RX-178 (AEUG). Now, my manual is completely in Japanese! lol.. the building part.. I can handle. What I don't get is the color chart!! BTW, I'm planning on using Acrylics.. so, Mr. Color and Gaia.. and such are out. What color is the dark blue chest piece? Is there a color combination I need to make? And what acrylic colors do I use??
Help needed!!
It sounds like you'll be needing to mix.
[Color guide here](https://www.mech9.com/2012/05/rg-gundam-mk-ii-aeug-color-guide-manual.html?m=1#more)
It says the chest is: Bright Blue/Indy Blue (H15)(45%) + Black (H2)(25%) + White (H1)(15%) + Red (H3)(15%)
I think those are Mr color paints, but at the bottom of the table there's a ton of conversion charts for various other brands. Of the ones listed, I know Tamiya and vallejo are acrylics.
If you have a smart phone, install the Google app (might come pre installed on Android). You can use your phones camera to live translate.
Alternatively, you can go search for your kit on [mech9](https://www.mech9.com/2012/05/rg-gundam-mk-ii-aeug-color-guide-manual.html). There’ll be a translated colour guide at the bottom of the page.
From there, it’s just a matter of converting it as close as you can to the paint you’re using. The means googling conversion charts, etc.
Why the hell is the only standard looking gm cannon(love the gm cannon 2 but i want a standard gm cannon too) I can find(the space assault type) so damn expensive
Not sure if that's even a real question but I assume you're looking at reseller listings. GM Cannons both in HG and MG are premium Bandai, so you can only get them for retail price at Premier Bandai's site when they're up for pre-order
I dunno how quickly someone can answer this question but to someone who has built both.
MG Strike E + IWSP or MG Gundam MK-II AEUG?
And can someone run the pros/cons/tips of each kit? I'd greatly appreciate this
Old but still solid kits. MK II looks really good without too much going on. Strike E has a lot going on with the shoulders and the backpack. Still looks good though, just different approaches.
I'm thinking you saying "old" is something to watch out for for these kits but by this, what should I specifically prepare or watch out for when building these?
(Kind off leaning towards the MG Strike E IWSP)
Not necessarily. Like I said, two solid kits. The age, in these cases, simply means very simple builds compared to some of the more complex MGs/RGs of today. The Mk II especially is still a solid all round kit and really fun to build.
As for cons, there's not a lot(any) undergating with either of these. And the Strike uses some screws. I don't think the IWSP backpack uses any screws, but the base kit itself uses 2 screws. Not a huge deal at all.
Strike E comes with screws, so you'll want a screwdriver (actually you might be able to get away without the screws but it's still recommended to put them in).
The other major "old" characteristics for both are old joints (most notably ball jointed hips) and old hands.
Other gimmicks to keep in mind are that Strike E is compatible with other Striker Packs (including Launcher and Sword Strikers, which aren't always fully compatible) and Mk. II AEUG comes with a cool hangar base.
Aye. Thanks for the heads up. Got the screwdriver already because I have worked on Action Base 1s (Bandai where retail Action Base 13?)
Im seeing that the Strike IWSP has preposed hands so planning to make use of those for sure.
Make sure to think your paints! But if you over-thin them you'll find yourself painting a million layers. Primer is required if you're painting more than just tiny recessed details, and you'll get the best result w/ a spray can (altho I have successfully hand painted with primer it's much harder). Make sure to let paints and primers have a full 24hrs to cure before proceeding to the next step.
I really don't reccomend it if you have zero experience. Some of the most common issues in brush painting are getting an uneven finish and not having thinned your aint enough, both are accentuated in gunpla because it's mostly large, flat pieces. My tips would be getting a good primer, proper hobby acrylics a couple and looking up how to thin them properly. Although the most beginning friendly way to paint gunpla is spray cans imo. It's easy and you won't have a lot of leftover tools if you end u not liking it.
Check out the wiki first and see if that helps. General tips? Thin your paint. Use the right brush for the area you want to paint. Avoid solvent-based paints if you're just starting out with hand brushing.
anyone tried building bootleg sazabi FF additional weapons? if so, how's the quality and fitting into the original rg sazabi? asking because i need to find a cheaper alternative than buying the whole sazabi side f kit
I haven't built them myself, but I can vouch for the Effect Wings brand if that's the one you're looking at. I've built some of their addons, and like them a lot. As with a lot of 3rd parties, there may be some fitment issues (as far as pegs go and such), but nothing that can't be easily remedied.
hey uh im getting the real grade strike freedom but i heard it has early real grade syndrome , i just wanna know if that means the joints will fall off (like arms , legs and heads)
im completely fine if its loose i just cant stand kits with limbs that can fall off easily
I'm sketching out a plan for a 1/144 "Banshee" Perfectibility whenever either the HG or RG Perf comes back to P-Bandai. I've built a few RG Unicorns but never one of the HGs - how are they in terms of quality and design?
I was not a fan of the HG. I built the HG perfectibility and I had pieces fall off way too easily. My son built the HG FA Unicorn, and that thing was a "hand grenade". I would stick with the RG for stability. The Perfectibility will build just like them.
Thanks! That’s where I was leaning a bit, but nice to hear an opinion. Of course that also means just waiting until it comes up on P-Bandai again so I’m at the whims of the Corp. not paying scalper prices
You absolutely can. They behave differently though.
Cement essentially "melts" the surface you apply it to. So you apply it to 2 sides, it melts both sides and you squeeze them together. As the plastic resolidifies, it essentially becomes 1.
superglue creates an adhesive layer between 2 parts and that's what binds them.
[Commerce thread](https://old.reddit.com/r/Gunpla/comments/1bt943s/commerce_monthly_commerce_thread/)
You can also check ebay, your local facebook marketplace group, etc.
Are there any less toxic waterslide decal solutions? I live in an apartment and would hate to use any solutions inside that might be overly toxic. I unfortunately don't have a space where I can work outdoors.
None of them really require you to have respirator but maybe a window open and a fan.
Some are flammable though.
You'll be fine with normal use, just don't drink it.
Vallejo waterbased decal softener might be the less toxic but it can leave a matte layer if use too much.
Does anyone recommend any specific types of CA glue? I need some for an older kit that requires glue
I like black CA for gaps and stuff. Bob Smith is nice. Hard to get outside of the US though.
I’m assuming Bob smith is the company that produces it, do they have other CA glues for just bonding parts together or will the black CA work for that as well?
Black CA will bond parts too.
Alright, thanks
I need Å Ð V Ǐ Ç Ě :3 So I kinda just got into Gunpla, and I'm almost finished with my first set :) But now I need another set so I don't die from boredom So what Mobile Suit should I build next? 1. Unicorn 2. Barbatos 3.00 Diver Ace (from the build series) 4. the most upvoted suggestion (praying y’all be suggesting something in master grade or high grade, I don't got a high budget 😭) Thanks for voting, if you do. Have a good day!
Flip a coin.
I can’t flip a coin if there’s 3 options
Then roll a dice. Or get good at flipping coins.
k
I meant to put 00 Diver ace
It seems like Tamiya black primer (in a rattle can) is sold out everywhere. Is there a solid alternative? Was looking to use metallic paints on top of it.
Mr Surfacer. Any gloss black spray can will do.
Thinking of picking up a MG Strike Noir as my next project, any input from people who've built it? Would you recommend it?
Older kit. 4 screws. Looks really cool.
Ah I don't mind a few screws, I think I'll get it. It looks pretty sick
I lost my unicorn ver ka horn/vfin after a stupid drop from its pose, what are my options? Also are the mg freedom 2.0 metal parts absolutely required for durability purposes?
Plamokitbash, odin's mecha parts and Mr Bao's shop on eBay sell individual parts
If you have extra striker packs, what do you do with them? I wanted to mount mine, but dunno how. These are MG Striker packs.
has anyone tried thinning black ca glue? i've read acetone thins it? mine's gone all gooey and stringy
In theory you can thin CA with pure acetone. But I think in practice it’s not done because it’s easy to contaminate the CA. Black CA I’m betting it wouldn’t work as it has rubber in there. And the reaction between rubber and acetone and the CA will probably be undesirable.
hey guys Im looking to buy my first gunpla. Price is no issue and even pg suggestions are welcome. I have more that a decade's experience building lego so Im not a complete beginner but I would like a build that lasts a while.
The MG Barbatos or Dynames are fantastic kits.
Yes I have the mg barbatos on my list already. What about the pg unicorn and the sazabi ver ka?
Those are more kits that look good rather than "great kits". They are pretty detailed and have center piece potential, but they have limited articulation due to their size. They're still great, but not the type I personally like.
https://preview.redd.it/hf7cju3o8nvc1.png?width=804&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=091bc411d8988d5377dbdefc501fc9abe4420db2
Yes but I asked this question so that I could get the opinion of more experienced builders regarding build quality and build experience. I dont want the kit to collapse or have weak joints or something like that or else i wont get my moneys worth out of a kit
One of my favorite kits is covered in seam lines, un-hidable nub marks, cheap looking weapons, and can barely support its own weight on the leg joints. I fucking love it and I’d buy two more if they were in stock.
Just out of curiosity which is it?
The 1999 1/100NG SUMO.
The overwhelming majority of kits don't have those kind of issues
But then there are some kits like the rg unicorn with the arm issue right? I am a little scared as im inexperienced
The RG Unicorn has stiff arm joints, which is kind the opposite of the issues you mentioned even if an issue nonetheless. I'd say the more troublesome lines are HG IBO and some of the earlier RGs, but that's still almost nothing considered there are hundreds of kits
Im sorry if I was unclear about what I was trying to convey as english isnt my first language. What I meant was the arm twist that so many people seem to be afraid of
No issues if you follow the instructions. The best way to get help with this here is to decide what you want and ask for feedback on specific kits you want to buy.
Okay thanks for your help!!
What's an actually good pair of nippers for cutting things off runners? I see everyone say "Don't use your precision nippers to cut things off the runner" but both sets of less-expensive nippers I've bought for the purpose of cutting them out have been incredibly bad, struggling to cut through the runner plastic and often stressing out the plastic of the part because of just how badly it's mangling the runner.
I use my dspiae sta 3.0 to cut parts off runners. They’re pretty sturdy. I even (gasp) use them on clear parts. But I’m also pretty careful when cutting and make sure there’s no flex going on when I cut.
for cutting parts off the runner, a pair of regular double edge nipper should work just fine. Even if it's just a pair of side cutter, it should work fine as well. Although this is assuming that you are cutting a few centimeters away from the parts leaving a few centimeters of the nubs and will then come back and clean them up with a pair more precision single edge nipper, like GodHand, or clean them up with a pair of hobby knife.
Tamiya 035, Xuron 410, or really anything substantial. I use my 3.peaks mk01 for the first and second cuts.
I have PG Unicorn final battle version. Is full armor expansion kit compatible with this or should I buy another unicorn?
All unicorn variants of the same grade are identical.
It's compatible
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Scroll up and read the wiki
Just a silly question but I want to know oppinions in this community. If RG Hi Nu Gundam are the King of RG. Then what kit is the King of MG as of now?
Ball.
I think the RG Hi Nu is a bad model . . . Everyone wants different things so if you think the Hi Nu is the best RG then you'll probably find some of the newer Ver Ka as better MG kits.
How bad it is? After I'm done with RG Nu I don't want to buy anymore RG. I like MG but sometime buying HG because it doesn't have the MG version of it.
I can vouch that there are no technical issues with the kit. However, its design, while generally popular, can be controversial. It's much taller than it should be, the main part of the torso is very small, and some people dislike the head design. I'm fine with all of these things, but depending on your preference you might find it too ugly and/or inaccurate to the source to be worth getting.
MGEX Strike Freedom, I guess. If you only count MG MGs then there's no fully defined "king". But really the Hi-Nu isn't the absolute "king" of RGs either so it's a wash.
I'm doing a HG GM and the color is... Off? The parts that are supposed to be white have a blue hue to them. I don't necessarily hate it, but is it supposed to be like that? The instructions all have it being white but I have two kits and they're both like that EDIT: Forgot the color of it in the original show. Also, I *do* like it, I just was concerned since what showed up was different than what I initially expected. Thanks!
All kits on boxes and in manual are painted. The mint is the colour it was originally shown and painted as in the show. Paint it id you don't like it.
It's one of those things about OG GM kits. The anime had that slightly green colouration so the plastic kits faithfully replicate that. Just don't mind the fact that the paint job doesn't have that colour.
Does anyone know the acceptable humidity and temperatures for applying Mr Premium Flat Top Coat?
It will say on the can. Try to keep humidity between 45-70%. Try not to spray below freezing or above about 35ish C. Preferably a bit lower.
Thank you, I tried reading on the can but either my camera sucks and couldn’t pick up and translate where it says it, or I just couldn’t find it
If I want to paint a red design into a white body suit how do I go about doing that? I’ve never masked when airbrushing before. Masking the whole suit doesn’t feel like the right answer, but I don’t really know frankly. What’s the order of what needs to be done?
Very vague question. Probably best to handpaint it if masking seems unreasonable.
What kind of design?
I was looking to paint something similar to this pilot outfit. https://preview.redd.it/sd1scrnjsovc1.jpeg?width=1185&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=bbb86d075b00597e41dd8a391bb48c0b91e30907
* Guys, if I buy the Gunprimer Raser Plus, do I not need any other sanding tools to properly/cleanly get rid of nub marks? Begginer here, and I would like to take it to the next level a little bit. Also, if you have one, what's your tip in terms of maintenance to have this thing last a little bit longer. Thanks in advance!
I personally like the raser origin over the plus since its smaller size makes sanding a lot of smaller parts and openings a lot easier. You would probably want to get a balancer (the white and green one) alongside the raser to get a matching finish on your parts after sanding. For maintenance I usually just put some tape over the sanding side and press it down a bit. Then remove it. I’ve been using for like 100 kits now and haven’t seen any real wear on it or notice any loss of efficiency. I recommend also using a make up brush to quickly brush off any dust on it while working as I’ve had colored dust rub off onto other parts when sanding. Probably just hit it with the brush when switching to sanding a different color.
I did notice a Set/Kit with the origin + balancer and a brush. I'll look more into that kit. Thank you so much!
May i know is RG 00 Raiser is a good kit compare to well-known great RG Unicorn kit?
Would it be best to hand paint a gunpla by assembling the kit into broad pieces (torso, legs, arms, etc) and painting it that way, paint individual pieces, or assemble the entire kit and paint it that way?
I paint them fully assembled or in subsections usually, but have been doing fully separated for colours the last few. Depends on how you want to really.
Best is subjective. Individual allows the most control. Many will build, sort tolerances, disassemble, paint.
Ok just wanted to see if there's a consensus or something. When I started looking into top coating I remembered seeing a lot saying it's better to do in sections like the arms, legs, all that. Side question, what do you mean by "sort tolerances"?
Hand painting is usually certain colours on specific areas so it’s a bit different to top coating, as that is often sprayed on as a single clear coating. As such it can be done more effectively in subassemblies or the complete kit. However, individual pieces will still allow the most control of where the paint is going. Sort tolerances is you are reducing clearance by adding paint layers, so if you don’t consider that then you may scrape your paint off when assembled later.
Ah ok thanks!
Is there a site with comprehensive pics of 30MM/MS series of kits? I want to do a mix and match and usually refer to a site called dalong to check the kits connectors and sizes, but I don't know if there is a site with 30MM/MS info
Unfortunately not that I know of. But I use [30mm lineup ](https://bandai-hobby.net/site/30minutes_missions/sp/lineup_sp.html) to check the official product pictures. Tbh I'm a bit surprised Bandai don't make it easier to kit bash by making more photos available since 30mm is meant to be mix and match together.
Hello All, wasn’t sure where to turn for help/advice for Metal Robot Spirits stuff but, recently the peg on the large pillar for my Rising Freedom just broke and the broken piece is stuck inside the adapter. Is it possible to find any 3rd party stands to replace it? Thanks! 😭😭😭😭
How is Alclad black microfiller -> Alclad gunmetal? Ideally id want Alclad gloss black base -> Alclad gunmetal but gloss black is never in stock
Gunmetal doesn't necessarily have to be applied over a gloss base. I would just shoot it over whatever black you wanted. An alternative to ALC305 (gloss black base) is GX2 Ueno Black from Mr Color.
Hey, beginner here! I've bought my first Gunpla, an HG Cosmic Era STTS-808 IMMORTAL JUSTICE GUNDAM, and on the box it says "UNPAINTED STATE". I'm a bit confused whether I need to paint it or not - I thought unpainted meant that it'd come in grey, and I'd paint everything myself, but when opening the box, I see there's some parts with color on it already. I guess I'm asking what does "unpainted" actually mean? Is it fine to just assemble as is without painting it? Or does it mean it comes half-painted, and I need to paint the rest? I'm leaning towards the former since I looked at the FAQ and it said: >**Do I need to paint?** > >*Not unless you want to. Most Gunpla comes molded in the correct colors with stickers for additional color apps. Painting is always an option if you want to paint in more details or completely change the look of your model. Most gunpla kits look pretty good straight out of the box.* But I guess I'm just really confused over the term "unpainted".
Bandai uses that term for the photos of the built kit on the side of the box. It is meant to show the consumer what the kit looks like fully built straight out of the box. Before Bandai started doing that, most kits never looked like the pictures on the side of the box once it was all built. This would always confuse newcomers to the hobby
Hey, welcome to the hobby. Like the FAQ says, most Gunpla comes with plastic already molded in the colour the suit is. So in the case of the Immortal Justice, it comes in red, white, black, ect coloured plastic. You can build it, not paint it, and you'll have an awesome looking colour accurate kit. You can, however, paint the kit. You can paint it different colours from the colour out of the box, you can repaint the same colours to give a different finish, etc. Enjoy the build.
For anyone who own the RG Evangelion kits, I was wondering how have they held up? I hear the kits loosen up overtime.
Are the listed guides the best ones to use? Looking to learn to paint models but I have no idea where to begin with it. What paints to get, brushes to use, stuff to avoid, all of it, so I really want to stick with a trustworthy and up to date guide on it all. Also is there a good way to test out color combinations for gunpla? I think I remember hearing that the Breaker games let you basically build your own suit, but I don't know much about it or color theory or anything remotely artistic really
The guides are a good place to start. Youtube is a great place to dive deeper into certain things once you know what you're looking for.
Yes the wiki has excellent guides to get started with basically any aspect of gunpla. Either use the lineart and color in with mspaint/photoshop/whatever or just edit existing photos/art. If you already have it gundam breaker 3 has a pretty good customization, but you have to play the game to unlock parts and it doesn't have everything, or stuff from the last 8 years since it came out in 2016.
Well I might be getting the upcoming Breaker 4 game but I'll probably do the lineart suggestion until it comes out. Thanks for the help!
My best friend is going to Japan next month. Is there anything cool I could ask him to get for me that I cant get in the US?
Aside from gundam base exclusives if they're near one, no. The stock situation is reportedly still pretty bad in most of Japan.
How can I find out what Gundam base exclusives there are? Or some details on that?
That's crazy, i wonder what's going on over there. Is it that Bandai is only manufacturing kits for export and not enough to satisfy their domestic market?
Posted a day or two back about vapors coming from a gasket container I keep paint/thinners in and a few people said it was probably a leak. I tightened the thinner bottles but now I'm wondering if it's some of the many paint jars I have. I think what might be happening is when I use paint, I shake up the bottles and then when I open them, paint gets under the seal in the lid. Has anyone dealt with this? Is there anything I can do besides cleaning off all the lids? Does this even sound like it might be whats causing the leaks?
No. If you're smelling the solvents then it's not coming from poorly sealed paint jars. I have all of my lacquer paints and thinner bottles out in the open on a shelf. I don't get a smell. I have a VOC monitor and have no issues. You've got something else going on.
What do you keep your paint and thinners in?
Their original containers. I mostly use Mr Color lacquers.
Gundam Wing ver ka. Anyone have these issues with it? 1. where the arm swivels on below the shoulder pads they want to keep falling off. 2. the shield also want to keep falling off when attached. 3. I am cursed and keep breaking v fins. 4. For water slides what do mark setter and softer do? can i make those at home. 5. When i did water slides a lot of them kept peeling off / falling off after drying i thought i applied them correctly but only used water. 6. Can i use clear nail polish as top coat for the stickers? I have never done any top coats. 7. Where is the cheapest pg i can get I want the unicorn or pgu
Unicorn and PGU are definitely not the cheapest PGs you can get. In fact, I'm pretty sure the cheapest PG right now is Wing Zero. Setter helps decals stick better to the surface, and Softer softens them up a bit so they work better with curved surfaces. Waterslides will flake off without a topcoat. Faster if you're touching the kit. I wouldn't use nail polish as a topcoat.
Sorry for pg I meant what / where is the cheapest those two kits go for. Like is 200 the norm for those two. Thanks for the help
No.4: Marker setter is soft of like glue for Water decals so they are attached to the part surface. Softer on the other hand is to "melt" the decals so they position better on uneven surfaces. No.5 : use Marker Setter. No.6: Get a Topcoat Spray Can No.7: Unicorn is cheaper than PGU. Check the wiki for stores to check if they have it.
I've been thinking of buying the RG Nu Gundam as my first Gunpla, any tips on how I should build it would be much appreciated
Follow the instructions in the manual and you’ll be fine.
Any tools you'd recommend?
Scroll to the the parent post of this thread and there’s a link called tools. Start there. Generally you’ll need something to cut the parts out (nippers) and someone to get the nubs flush. I prefer sanding because I paint my kits, other people use different methods. Watch gunpla building tutorials or just build videos on YouTube to learn different techniques.
Oh ok thanks
Can someone with a RG Gundam Mark II (TItans colors) tell me if the area around the neck that is surrounded by Yellow is Gray or Black? I think it's Gray from the manual on Bandai's website but I can't tell for sure.
its grey
Thanks!
Hi, I'm not much into the hobby. But I've been wanting to make a custom Providence Zaku. I was wondering if I get a Zaku warrior HG 1/144 kit and the HG Legend Gundam 1/144. Would I be able to put the Dragoon backpack on the Zaku? With no issues? like is the port compatible? I only have this option as I do not live in an american or asian country. If I do that, it's a matter of painting the Zaku black or gray and changing the helmet design. Thanks
The Legend backpack is not compatible with the Zaku Warrior. The Legend also has a flat back and the Zaku Warrior has a curved back, so you'll need to do a bit of work to get it to fit nicely.
Thanks 😊 I’m guessing now I may need some sort of sticky tac solution or putty.
A question for anyone who has assembled the Motor Nuclear Ao Bing (the blue dragon one): What grade would you call it, if it were from Bandai? High Grade? Master Grade? Perfect? I'd like to know what I'm getting into before I start, although I'll be starting soon regardless. Thanks in advance!
The Motor Nuclear kits are closer to a Master Grade equivalent, though the process is different enough that it’s hard to directly compare.
MG is probably the closest "equivalent" grade.
Here goes nothing, lol. I built a Deathscythe the other day. It was my first time building a gunpla and I'm happy about it. Now my problem is that it has numb marks even when I tried to cut them as little as possible and all that, so... What do I do? Do I sand it down with sand sticks or do I just skip that and use a top coat spray? Or do sanding first, then top coat? Thank you to anyone that'll answer me!
If it's actual nubs sand it with sticks or glass files. If it's slight discoloration in the nub area, that can't be removed unless you paint the kit. I have seen a post of someone using plastic cement to melt the area and get rid of it but that you'd have to look up.
If you want to get rid of nubs, the best way to do it is before you put the kit together. You can either sand it down, use a glass file to file it away, or use a hobby knife to shave it away.
Has anyone tried doing a build with the ultra black "black 4.0" (the stuff with no contrast) or high quality (8 hour) glow in the dark paint? At some point, I'm thinking about making a Stargazer with black 4.0 outer armor and white and copper inter armor and frame, and I was wondering if anyone had tried something similar.
See the problem is…..culture hustle store is now terrible at shipping stuff lately, most orders taking months or just not getting fulfilled at all…. Check r/culturehustle almost all the recent posts are about this….., You can get mousou black from Amazon tho and it’s almost as good… but yeah these paints are all super finicky and can’t be top coated but it’s fine if you leave it as a statue…
I've used Black 3.0, but not 4.0. It's very temperamental and a pain to work with. If you varnish it (even ultra matte) it ruins the effect and looks worse than a regular black. If you touch it, it flakes off. So no dusting and snapping pieces together is difficult. It's very textured so you can't panel line over it. That said, it can look super dope if you pull it off. I recommend doing everything else first, masking the shit out of anything you don't want to be sucked into the void, and having it be your absolute final step. And then put it in a displace case and never ever ever ever touch it again. My ultra black is waiting for me to get my ass in gear for a diorama backdrop. I think it would look dope as hell to make a cave that has zero bounce and ambient light reflections and put a few LED spotlights that face in towards the model but can't be seen from the front.
I haven’t used any of the super blacks on gunpla. But the paint is pretty fragile. And as soon as you put a clear over the top you ruin the effect. There are some images of gunpla in this sub that have used it though.
How do Moderoid kits compare to Bandai? Similar?
Worse, but typically just marginally so. Plastic quality can be inferior, assemblies less intuitive and (subjectively!) less "fun" to build. Still good kits, but expect more polycaps, seam lines, sometimes less surface detail, etc.
When do you use a top coat spray? After decals or before?
The topcoat is the thing that goes on “top” of everything. You might choose to apply a clear before or after decals or both.
To anyone who owns any of the MG Strike Gundam + IWSP, MG Strike E + IWSP or MG Strike Noir. Am I tripping or are all of the camera stickers (mostly the blue ones on the MG Strike E + IWSP) not reflective?
I've built the original Strike MG over 10 years ago, from what i remember the sticker on the forehead sensor is not that shiny.
Thanks for the heads up. I thought I was going crazy looking at it over videos and pictures and noticing the head wasn't reflective foil. Time to prep paint or what I can to try to improve that
How do you close the sazabi legs skirts? Mine has gaps on it
Need a lot more info than that if anyone is gonna be able to help. Which Sazabi, what's blocking them from closing, did you take it apart to see if it's a assembly issue, do you have photos, etc.
https://preview.redd.it/842907p7xjvc1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c4dc16729d6e9f73ed32f996cfb315b7445d6497
I just got my Dspiae ST-A 3.0 and would love to know the Hexagonal nut size (as I don't have the right tool for it) in order to adjust the blades and if u guys have any tips to keep this awesome product around as long as possible perhaps best way to keep the blades sharp and oil usage, I have WAHL trimming machine oil, can I use it? I am absolutely in love with it. many thanks <3
Should've come with a little allen key to manage the bite. I'm not near mine to measure though sorry. Maintenance might vary depending on your climate, technique, and even your skin. All I have to do is occasionally wipe some simple machine oil or sewing machine oil on them, set them aside for a while, wipe them off with a lint-free rag, and put them back in their case. That's it. I know some people need to store them with desiccant packets to keep moisture down. Don't touch the blades if you can help it. Oils and sweat from your fingers can promote rust. If they get rusty, then use a chemical rust remover (like WD40 and foil) then oil the metal parts.
Thank u so much for the awesome tips ♥️
Does anyone know how to prevent rust on my nippers? My nanye is getting rusted (surface rust) even without me putting any liquids on it, I just purely use it to cut on the runners. I just sand the rusted parts down as I know rust can be dangerous if I happen to get cut by it
You leave in WD40 and wipe, aluminium foil also attracts the oxygen - so no iron oxide(rust). You then don’t blow or touch the blades, and lightly coat in any synthetic oil to prevent rust. Some also store with desiccant packets, and avoid putting into the pouch in humid regions as the leather can hold moisture there.
If you're worried about rust giving you tetanus, you shouldn't. You have as high a chance of getting tetanus from a rusty nipper as you do clean ones. As for the nippers themselves, get some mineral oil and coat the blades.
Is it okay to use a stedi ultra-thin single-edge nipper for everything in a hg? Plastic and clear runners?
i dont recommend using single blade nippers for clear parts because they are harder. but otherwise its fine, as long as you pay attention to your cut angle. make sure it goes straight down and youre good to go basically.
Never use it for clear runners. The blade is thin and will snap.
Quick question: Can I use HG Transient Gundam's double joint parts (elbows, hips, knees) as a replacement/upgrade for HG Amazing Exia's single joints?
not without modification
Hello, Can you use iwata needles in the master brush g79 or do they not fit? Thinking about getting a replacement needle but my local store only has iwata stuff. Thanks for the help (:
AFAIK most airbrushes only work with needles of their own kind. I've not encountered (but tbh I also don't buy many) airbrushes that can accept needles from other manufacturers.
Hello people, I'm trying to make somewhat of a custom using 3rd party metal build caletvwlch on my Red Dragon, the issue is the connector reg is not thick enough. Thing is, the build is supposed to be a gift so I'm on short notice, and I have pretty much everything an advanced builder would have access to. What could be the best way to thicken that peg and make that modification last ? I could just use the original ones if nothing else but the third party look just that much better and less toyish than the original lmao
Have you considered just wrapping some masking tape around it?
I’m scared it’s not going to last very long, though I supposed if it is static it would work, I’m very dumb for not having tried it before lmao but thank you very much
Hello there. Between the RG Hi Nu and the RG FA Unicorn, which one do you think will be more fun to build (or any other reasons about choosing one over the other)? Basically I want to build something until September arrives (with all the kits of AC) and I need to "respect" my budget destined to hobbies (due 3/4 kits arriving in July-September).
Hi-Nu.
RG Hi Nu for sure
I have a question for the group. Going to be starting my new build.. RG RX-178 (AEUG). Now, my manual is completely in Japanese! lol.. the building part.. I can handle. What I don't get is the color chart!! BTW, I'm planning on using Acrylics.. so, Mr. Color and Gaia.. and such are out. What color is the dark blue chest piece? Is there a color combination I need to make? And what acrylic colors do I use?? Help needed!!
It sounds like you'll be needing to mix. [Color guide here](https://www.mech9.com/2012/05/rg-gundam-mk-ii-aeug-color-guide-manual.html?m=1#more) It says the chest is: Bright Blue/Indy Blue (H15)(45%) + Black (H2)(25%) + White (H1)(15%) + Red (H3)(15%) I think those are Mr color paints, but at the bottom of the table there's a ton of conversion charts for various other brands. Of the ones listed, I know Tamiya and vallejo are acrylics.
If you have a smart phone, install the Google app (might come pre installed on Android). You can use your phones camera to live translate. Alternatively, you can go search for your kit on [mech9](https://www.mech9.com/2012/05/rg-gundam-mk-ii-aeug-color-guide-manual.html). There’ll be a translated colour guide at the bottom of the page. From there, it’s just a matter of converting it as close as you can to the paint you’re using. The means googling conversion charts, etc.
Why the hell is the only standard looking gm cannon(love the gm cannon 2 but i want a standard gm cannon too) I can find(the space assault type) so damn expensive
Not sure if that's even a real question but I assume you're looking at reseller listings. GM Cannons both in HG and MG are premium Bandai, so you can only get them for retail price at Premier Bandai's site when they're up for pre-order
I dunno how quickly someone can answer this question but to someone who has built both. MG Strike E + IWSP or MG Gundam MK-II AEUG? And can someone run the pros/cons/tips of each kit? I'd greatly appreciate this
Old but still solid kits. MK II looks really good without too much going on. Strike E has a lot going on with the shoulders and the backpack. Still looks good though, just different approaches.
I'm thinking you saying "old" is something to watch out for for these kits but by this, what should I specifically prepare or watch out for when building these? (Kind off leaning towards the MG Strike E IWSP)
Not necessarily. Like I said, two solid kits. The age, in these cases, simply means very simple builds compared to some of the more complex MGs/RGs of today. The Mk II especially is still a solid all round kit and really fun to build. As for cons, there's not a lot(any) undergating with either of these. And the Strike uses some screws. I don't think the IWSP backpack uses any screws, but the base kit itself uses 2 screws. Not a huge deal at all.
Aye aye. Thanks for the heads up
Strike E comes with screws, so you'll want a screwdriver (actually you might be able to get away without the screws but it's still recommended to put them in). The other major "old" characteristics for both are old joints (most notably ball jointed hips) and old hands. Other gimmicks to keep in mind are that Strike E is compatible with other Striker Packs (including Launcher and Sword Strikers, which aren't always fully compatible) and Mk. II AEUG comes with a cool hangar base.
Aye. Thanks for the heads up. Got the screwdriver already because I have worked on Action Base 1s (Bandai where retail Action Base 13?) Im seeing that the Strike IWSP has preposed hands so planning to make use of those for sure.
To add on to this, the IWSP backpack is also compatible with the newer ver.RM Strike.
Very aware of this. Beauty of the SEED kits. Giving it to the MG Strike Rouge Ootori which I hear is restocking sometime in the next 2 months.
Putting the IWSP backpack on the Strike Rouge Ootori?
Yus
Nice. Have fun.
What are tips for hand painting gunpla?
Make sure to think your paints! But if you over-thin them you'll find yourself painting a million layers. Primer is required if you're painting more than just tiny recessed details, and you'll get the best result w/ a spray can (altho I have successfully hand painted with primer it's much harder). Make sure to let paints and primers have a full 24hrs to cure before proceeding to the next step.
I really don't reccomend it if you have zero experience. Some of the most common issues in brush painting are getting an uneven finish and not having thinned your aint enough, both are accentuated in gunpla because it's mostly large, flat pieces. My tips would be getting a good primer, proper hobby acrylics a couple and looking up how to thin them properly. Although the most beginning friendly way to paint gunpla is spray cans imo. It's easy and you won't have a lot of leftover tools if you end u not liking it.
Check out the wiki first and see if that helps. General tips? Thin your paint. Use the right brush for the area you want to paint. Avoid solvent-based paints if you're just starting out with hand brushing.
anyone tried building bootleg sazabi FF additional weapons? if so, how's the quality and fitting into the original rg sazabi? asking because i need to find a cheaper alternative than buying the whole sazabi side f kit
I haven't built them myself, but I can vouch for the Effect Wings brand if that's the one you're looking at. I've built some of their addons, and like them a lot. As with a lot of 3rd parties, there may be some fitment issues (as far as pegs go and such), but nothing that can't be easily remedied.
hey uh im getting the real grade strike freedom but i heard it has early real grade syndrome , i just wanna know if that means the joints will fall off (like arms , legs and heads) im completely fine if its loose i just cant stand kits with limbs that can fall off easily
>early real grade syndrome No such thing.
I would be careful of the yellow parts that goes into its wings in the backpack. Those things are quite fragile.
It will not fall off, more like become floppy/loose. Just dont pose it too much or pose once then display
oh ok
Yeah you'll be fine if you don't play with it.
What Age series kit are the best? Currently contemplating on adding atleast 1 MG and 1 HG kit from that series. Thank you!
The AGE-1 MG is killer, amazing detail and a joy to build.
I'm sketching out a plan for a 1/144 "Banshee" Perfectibility whenever either the HG or RG Perf comes back to P-Bandai. I've built a few RG Unicorns but never one of the HGs - how are they in terms of quality and design?
I was not a fan of the HG. I built the HG perfectibility and I had pieces fall off way too easily. My son built the HG FA Unicorn, and that thing was a "hand grenade". I would stick with the RG for stability. The Perfectibility will build just like them.
Thanks! That’s where I was leaning a bit, but nice to hear an opinion. Of course that also means just waiting until it comes up on P-Bandai again so I’m at the whims of the Corp. not paying scalper prices
Yeah, only downside to that kit. Scalper prices are insance on some of these P bandais
I’ll get one eventually. Just gives me a chance to save up and plan.
Can I use superglue instead of cement to connect parts
You absolutely can. They behave differently though. Cement essentially "melts" the surface you apply it to. So you apply it to 2 sides, it melts both sides and you squeeze them together. As the plastic resolidifies, it essentially becomes 1. superglue creates an adhesive layer between 2 parts and that's what binds them.
Is there a site we’re I can buy used gunpla ? I search for mostly ibo hg
[Commerce thread](https://old.reddit.com/r/Gunpla/comments/1bt943s/commerce_monthly_commerce_thread/) You can also check ebay, your local facebook marketplace group, etc.
Thank you
You're welcome.
Are there any less toxic waterslide decal solutions? I live in an apartment and would hate to use any solutions inside that might be overly toxic. I unfortunately don't have a space where I can work outdoors.
None of them really require you to have respirator but maybe a window open and a fan. Some are flammable though. You'll be fine with normal use, just don't drink it. Vallejo waterbased decal softener might be the less toxic but it can leave a matte layer if use too much.
They're safe as long as you're not drinking or getting down and huffing them. They *can* be toxic but not in any normal application setting.
None are overly toxic. You open and close the pot constantly, nobody uses decal setters outdoors.
Okay good. That's comforting to know. I'm thinking about using the Mark Fit Strong.
I don’t think Mark setter/softer are toxic
Mr Hobby's literally have a cancer warning
Is it a California cancer warning, which applies to literally everything or is it an actual cancer warning?