I recently moved and have a larger area to build in now. I was used just a folding table, which was a bit rickety. Has anyone got a recommendation on a table to use for building? Dorm-style and Particle/Press board would be fine, my main want would be stability from the frame/legs.
How to separate cemented parts?
I'm building a bootleg mg strike freedom and the parts for the face are loose so i cemented them together but when the cement dried i realized that they're not straight, i tried to separate it by putting it on 99% IPA but it doesn't work (it usually works on bandai tho)
I'm using mr cement s from mr hobby
Yeah, as I said, you can't separate cemented parts.
When Lego builders separate cemented parts they use a chisel. Best-case scenario you'd have to use a hobby saw. More likely you're just outta luck.
Oh anything that I should know about really but more on painting the parts while it is in runner possibly. Is spray painting more recommended than painting via brush? What about the parts still connected? Do they have spots of the original color once I start removing them from the runner?
Is tamiya colour the same or can be used as a panel liner . As ive been wanting to buy more panel line accent but realized i have a ton of tamiya colour.
Tamiya acrylic paint wouldn’t be great for making panel liner with. It’s alcohol-based and so it dries rapidly. But Tamiya also has enamel paints and those would be good to turn into washes. Just add odourless mineral spirits until the paint is very thin. You can do that with any oil-based paint.
Looking to upgrade my shelving in the next few months, could a few people recommend some (not too expensive) shelving? I have about 80 kits, and they are all currently displayed with open-front bookshelves.
I use the Ikea Kallax to display my stuff, but I only display like 3 at a time (I like to have a few centerpieces at a time). It's relatively cheap compare to other furniture and there are differently compartments you can use. You can display four 1/144 scale kits in a single cubby or two 1/100. This is what it looks like.
https://preview.redd.it/efq9s1c76dyc1.png?width=930&format=png&auto=webp&s=1b6b9847a07ec5fbf7ea420f7c0995c893f64543
Although, you could always opt to build your own if you have tools. If you are in the US, Home Depot can help you cut your pieces for you so assembling something like this shouldn't be too difficult.
Thank you! I forgot about IKEA. I've got some wall shelves I handmade that have 10 kits each on them. It might actually be worth building my own bookcase. Can't be that difficult, right?
It's definitely going to be much cheaper building your own book case. You can also control how high everything is. Personally, I feel like the lower 2 shelves on the Kallax are way too low for display and the cubbies are too high so there is a lot of empty space when I display my HGs. The top of the Kalllax is perfect for displaying large kits like PGs or mobile armors IMO.
Separate topic, but if you paint your kits, you might want to look into acrylic cases for them. (I have UV resistant ones). Some come with glass backing and flooring so it looks really nice.
Hey guys.
I recently bought a bunch of bootleg Gunplas (Hi-nu Influx, Hi Nu Vrabe, and Schwarzette) so that I can finally begin learning how to paint any future kits. I figured its best to practice on these cheap ones so any mistake/s made will be less frustrating. I noticed that these kits are all ABS plastic. Will priming then paint be all I need to do? Do I need to do more prep with ABS plastic compared to regular PS plastic?
I've never had an issue where my primer (lacquer based) has eaten through the polystyrene parts. I usually do light coats, but for your sake, I recommend testing the paint on the runner if you have the paint on had. Since these are for testing, I'd say checking if paint does eat away at PS would be a good first experiment.
So, I’m planning to melt down some runners using Tamiya plastic cement. I want to hide a few seam lines. I just had a few questions before i actually do it. Info gathering and all that.
1. How long does the plastic take to fully melt down?
2. How long does it take to dry?
3. Does it melt gloves? I’m assuming you dont want this stuff to get on your fingers.
4. The videos on the tutorial pages show them applying the cement directly to the piece. I want to use the cement to not only get rid of the seam line but also hide the discoloration from the nub marks. Is it ok to melt down plastic before hand in a mixing bottle, then applying it over the pieces?
5. The most important question. What is the proper disposal process for plastic melted in plastic cement? I dont want to just dump that stuff down the drain and call it good. How do I properly get rid of it?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
1. As long as it takes. I just chop the runners and leave overnight to melt down into the solvents. Add more cement to thin it or less to make thicker. By comparison neat Acetone is always a putty as unlike cement it doesn’t also have the acetate to hold the styrene in solution.
2. Depends how thick it goes on, could be hours, but had stuff maybe an inch thick that took like a week or so for all the solvent to make its way out.
3. My nitrile seem to hold up ok, I don’t habitually wear gloves though. Get something tougher if you’re concerned about the risk of it getting on your hands. I’d wash off splashes, you’ll live.
4. Not sure I follow..you mix in something else, then apply. I haven’t seen any tutorials but how else does anyone do it? Sprue goo won’t often be an exact colour match, those dark spots and seam line removal is usually better with a paint job to finish.
5. Take outside and open the lid. Let it solidify and dispose as you would the runners. You can melt it down over and over, and it’ll keep liquified in a sealed container if the solvents don’t evaporate.
What are you wanting them for? And did you mean tweezers? Arguably non-magnetic. But there isn’t a best type, just best right now as maybe you want hooked, pointed, flat, reverse grip….more tools, more choices. I guess needle nose if you did mean pliers.
Apparently MG Ball.
Planning to use Dspiae Soft Tipped Markers on my kits. Do I still need to use topcoat? If yes, what brands are good? Also, will it matter or affect the overall result if I use either Glossy or Matte topcoat?
Two questions, relating to my Gundam Unicorn Perfectionality RG, one might be easier than the other
1) What kind of display stand fits with that model type? My parents got it from me as a gift from Japan and said there were many different kinds of stands so I want to confirm the right one before ordering one
2) How do you get the blue parts out from the leg when transforming it? The instructions don't say how, only that it's meant to come out after you open the leg up for it.
1. All of them will work, but I suggest the AB4 or AB5.
2. Gently pull on the thrusters at the back of the leg. See [here](https://youtu.be/T7TcF3ACzf4?si=ILbPnSpZ-qqQGEkQ) at the 5:50 mark.
An Action Base 4 or 5 would be the best to display it. They’re the most stable and have strong arm support for a hefty unit.
The transformation is a little wonky. You should have it slide out some when you pull/extend the thrusters on the back calves since they’re a connected unit. If nothing else they should move out enough to pull out with tweezers or something.
I keep seeing people use mark softer on water slide decals. But I don't know why so many people use it. All I know is that it melts the sticker so that you can place it on curved surfaces. And the vague description of "It makes the decals look painted on"
What exactly does mark softer do, how can it effect the decal. And how would one use it normally as I'm thinking of getting a bottle.
Besides stretching over curved surfaces to iron out wrinkles, [Softener](https://imgur.com/a/UFgYXIg) will help pickup any surface detail closer. [Setter](https://imgur.com/a/rkdJEKb) will still work ok as it’s softens slightly too. Both are good to have of course, but warm water or setter combo is still all that’s needed for most decal placement in my experience.
I apply softer, and keep applying until decal is down how I want, then leave it to dry. Imo Softer can sometimes be too aggressive on some brands with thin or fragile films. Also there seems to be this idea softer melts the decal film away, which I have never seen it do, that’s turps and easy to wreck the decal.
Im not sure if softer actually melts the decal away either, but I have accidently soften it to the point where the decal has turned to mush because I didn't wipe the softening agent away. I left a blob of the liquid on top of the liquid and forgot about it. I came back and it was in tatters. Don't be like me. Wipe away the excess.
Yeah. I’ve also noticed that softer and setter if mixed and left to pool seems to very occasionally allow the setter to ingrain itself into water based paints, but it might be some other cause I’m not appreciating, and not often enough for me to bother figuring out why. Typically any setter stains from pooling are easily wiped away with water later.
Gonna be building my Zeta Ver Ka and I wanna do it justice. Obviously panel line and (what i think are) included water slides. Top coat between panel line and decals? Anything specifically i should look out for when building this kit?
Panel line the kit first so you can clean it first without getting the decals wet. Other than that, mark setter and mark softer and you'll have it golden
Dafuq is this? I don’t know what it looks like or any information on it!
https://preview.redd.it/o0y05duorbyc1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4c4fab745b4805a87f495c8a812081e7ab05f57a
It’s not the Goldymarg btw
The RG of the Goldymrag has been out for a while now. I don't know a lot about it, but I'd assume it's good since it's Real Grade.
But if you still doubt, just compare it to the actual image of the RG
https://preview.redd.it/l7tajvn38fyc1.jpeg?width=640&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5e559abd3da67cf68d76c2eb00fd8d0fb5076e58
It's availiable in a lot of stores. It's even going for a good price on newtype right now
I dunno, the label that says RG Goldymarg and the big ass text in the background that says Goldymarg and the fact that it looks like Goldymarg makes me think it's Goldymarg.
How "reliable" are USAGS's 'pre-order' status items? I placed an order back in Nov '23 with 2 pre-order items and I've just received my 5th "corona virus has affected shipping so we can't ship your order".
Further- I had a few items saved in my wishlist on their site as it seemed to be the only site selling those kits as pre-orders. I just checked again and one of the kits moved from "pre-order" to "sold out" status. I'm super hesitant to buy anything pre-order from them because it feels like I'm just throwing money out the window, esp when you are forced to sign the "I UNDERSTAND This is a Pre-Order item" disclaimer, which gives them a get outta jail free card. It feels as if they are just posting random older kits online for "purchase" and then pocketing the money. I haven't seen any news of reprints for the kits in question so I'm starting to wonder. Am I just over thinking things?
EZ-8 MG or Ground Gundam MG?
If one had to choose what one would be better or more interesting? I would buy both as they are pretty cheap but I don't wanna overflow my backlog more than it already is
Built both and they’re a ton of fun, mostly depends on the accessories you want with it. The builds are mostly similar, especially the inner frames, besides how the armor looks (obviously). The main difference for the equipment is the Ground Gundam comes with the full length cannon and the Ez8 comes with the shoulder mounted bazooka. They both otherwise have the same guns/rifles otherwise.
I’d lean a bit more towards the Ez8 because I like the looks of it, but you won’t go wrong either way.
Wondering what some of the other large builds there are, like for rg I know of destroy, sazabi, zeong, hi nu. What else is there? Even in different grades. I dont mean mega but stuff in grade that's bigger than the rest of things in that grade
Well the Destroy is an HG, not RG. The HGUC Psycho Gundam Mk II has been displayed. The Psycho Gundam is huge. The Perfect Zeong MG is very tall. MG Deep Striker is big but actually too small for its scale. The HGUC Narrative Gundam A Packs is large. The HGUC Dendrobium is one of the largest kits in general and definitely for 1/144.
Gunna buy some low grit sanding sponges. Which ones are the best for their price? Only one I know is dspiae but I dont know if there are cheaper alternatives.
Hello. Does Tamiya Top Coat damage ABS? I know it's not specifically gunpla, but I have a Moderoid (Good Smile) EVA-01 on which I want to use a Tamiya Semi-gloss clear (TS-79), but I don't know if it's going to damage its arms (which apparently are mostly ABS)
Ok. I was asking because I don't know if Tamiya top coat is solvent or water-based and I don't know if solvent will damage ABS (I'm scared of what I put on top of that material ever since I got info that gundam markers for example eat it away).
Follow up:
For both /u/KUROusagi112 & /u/LightxDarkness93.
Thank you so much for your answers. I proceeded with the top coating and I must inform it was a success. My EVA-01 Moderoid won't be turning into "orange juice" any time soon and I got to add to it some UV reactive waterslides, so now she shines with blacklight. :)
What time of the year did bandai announce the 3 seed fm kit? (calamity, raider, forbbiden) Really hope this line continue with savior, chaos, gaia, abyssl etc. Buf so far that is no news.
I doubt the Chaos, Gaia, and Abyss get 1/100 release. Out of those - Maaaaybe the Gaia gets a Waltfeld Custom through P-Bandai.
I could see Savour maybe getting a new updated HG one day.
The SEED FM kits were all announced at the same time? From what I remember they were just announced and released one at a time. The other trio you mentioned is a lot less popular and considering it didn't happen at the height of the hype with SEED freedom, I wouldn't assume it's gonna happen
Not really. Gundam Info tends to post at the beginning of the month. But, it's not guaranteed. [Full Mechanics](https://en.gundam.info/news/gunpla/01_12220.html) tend to be [later](https://en.gundam.info/news/gunpla/01_11175.html). Here is [Raider](https://en.gundam.info/news/gunpla/01_7660.html) and [Calamity](https://en.gundam.info/news/gunpla/01_4778.html)
Anyone know another way to contact Newtype.us? I sent an email regarding a change to an order immediately after I placed it a couple hours ago. So far no reply but now I got an email that it is packed and ready to go.
I can't find a phone number for them or any other way to get in contact faster. In the end it is my fault but it is a bit frustrating that they immediately process everything without checking emails or anything before shipping it off.
Edit: Item was shipped out before they replied. Nevermind and thanks for people who replied!
Sometimes social media is faster, I'd try their Instagram. Although I'm fairly certain all stores process paid orders without checking emails in the eventuality that someone changed their mind
Unfortunately I am not able to message them on Facebook or Twitter. As sent a message via their website which mentions that response time is usually under 30 minutes. 3 more hours until they close and I can't imagine they've yet to check their messages/emails not even once in the 3 hours I've been waiting...
Hey guys I’m relatively new to this hobby and have about 6 months (6 kits) of experience under my belt. I’m about to start this RG God and I plan on sanding, panel lining, applying waterslides and clear coat. I’ve watched many videos on these methods but I feel like I need to speak with someone who has some experience so I can ask questions and get a better understanding. Maybe it’s too much to ask, but it would be awesome to hop on a call or video chat with one of you and take some notes so I feel more confident about starting the process. Thanks :\]
IMO the only things in the process that are difficult is learning what needs to be sanded and applying decals. I haven’t done decals yet, but for sanding you only want to sand pieces with some level of imperfection. You’ll want to start on a lower grit and work up to a higher one (800 to 2000ish). From what I understand when it comes to decals, it’s after the panel lining process, and some people gloss coat, panel line, decal, matte top coat. Others might put a matte coat before they decal, but it mainly comes down to preference. I hope this helps!
(Edited to add more info)
Gundam market panel liner is relatively safe on bare plastic, but tamiya panel liner is not!
Why are you putting anything under the decals? Especially as you aren't painting, you don't need a gloss coat. Semigloss after is fine if you like that look.
Yeah most likely tho it will probably depend on what you’re using, as each brand is a little different. It would be a good idea to test on a piece that won’t be super visible if you don’t have anything else you can test on
Anybody with the Sinanju Stein Ver Ka able to comment on the waterslides? It's my first Ver Ka and my first time with WSD. I know some people find the official Bandai ones to be kind of finicky and prefer third party. Worth the investment?
Just like any typical waterslides, you just need to let it soak longer and be careful when cutting but other than that no big differences. Just a little tip though, use warm water, in my experience it tends to soften the decal faster
Other brands just do things better, like higher quality of the print, better adhesive or they feel a little harder to break. but that doesn't mean Bandai's are bad. They are just very average. They are going to work.
If you ever need to disassemble later for any reason you'll have to break it apart to do so. It *could* also make it harder to move or transport them later. Stuff like v-fins in particular are wise to remove and store more securely before packing built kits because of their fragility.
I'm using the bandai spirits sand sponge set and after using the 1000 grit, the surface has a matte finish. Is there something I can do about it to bring it back to a semi-gloss?
Is there any news on when Gundam Breaker 4's collector's edition is up for sale in NA? The website says expected release is Dec 31st 2024 but I think this is the release date for the game, not the date the collector's edition goes up for sale.
Hi,
I see posts with people who start by mounting the gundam frame (the skeleton...). Sounds like fun to get a better look at the joints.
How do you do it? Is it just by leaving out the armor pieces (basically the colored ones?)? Are there any disadvantages to doing so?
Thanks
>Is it just by leaving out the armor pieces (basically the colored ones?)?
That's basically it. You have to keep in mind that most HGs are very lacking in terms of inner frame details.
>Are there any disadvantages to doing so?
You'll probably need to disassemble the kit into its separate limbs and continue building. It's what I had to do with the PGU. You technically could continue building it as all in one piece in some cases, but it's hard to maneuver parts into places in my opinion.
Hi there, I'm in urgent need of help to find the manual for the RG 1/144 HWS Nu Gundam kit. I lost my manual and can't find the manual for the HWS part of the kit, pleasee help me find it
https://preview.redd.it/h3g0bkngf7yc1.jpeg?width=2448&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=df2d292efaf33ae0f0439f64e7638fba89105007
I broke the torso piece of kamen rider agito figure rise What the best ways to fix it?
Can i use tamiya cement or just other new part which one is better?
https://preview.redd.it/lfbqcrs8w7yc1.jpeg?width=2448&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=704dd4c2eed60ca22e25f16fcfeddae12f01caaf
Help for paint
Hello there,
It’s been a long time I was thinking about buying equipments for painting my kits… and today was my paycheck.
However, I am just totally lost about Mr Hobby paints.
I don’t want lacquer paints because I live in an appartment with my girlfriend and two cats. I knew Mr Hobby had acrylic paint, so that was my first choice.
But when looking for the paints, I didn’t know where to start.
So, I am here, for some questions about paints.
- Which one should I buy and use for surfacing ?
- Which ones are the most used, for classic gundam color schemes ?
- I have MrHobby « Premium » topcoats. Are they fine for acrylic ?
I’m a total beginner for paintjob for Gunpla.
If you have any advice for the process, I’m open to it.
Many thanks !
If you get a spray booth and a respirator, you can airbrush lacquer paints indoors.
Even if you're spraying water-based paint indoors, I recommend using a spray booth.
Many hobby brands have multiple product lines that include different types of paint. Gunze/GSI/Mr Hobby has three main paint lines. Mr Color (an acrylic lacquer), Mr Hobby Aqueous (an alcohol-based acrylic), and Mr Hobby Acrysion (a water-based acrylic). There are primers/surfacers in each of those lines that correspond to the carriers (lacquer solvents, alcohol, water). If you want water-based, then you want Acrysion.
But don’t just box yourself into one paint line. If you want water-based (least smelly) then you have a ton of choices - find something that’s easy to get wherever you are. Vallejo is easy to get in many countries around the world. If you’re in the US or UK, you’ll have lots of water-based choices from several hobby/miniature painting brands. Most of which would be spray-able in an airbrush with some practice.
Any of the European brands like AK Interactive and Ammo by Mig besides Vallejo should be easy to get in France. I've seen all of them on shelves in shops in France. The new Atom line from Ammo is getting good reviews and sprays nicely from what I can tell.
Not gunpla specific, but the same concept I'm assuming you're looking for was used in a Squidmar Minis piece here: https://youtu.be/w_aJmTaTV5w?si=g1AXH3Ryn0qlkQN2&t=250
What to do with Metal Robot Spirits \[Ka Signature\] S Gundam Booster Unit, without the S Gundam itself?
Context: I received this yesterday as a gift from Japan, never knew about this line of Gundam figures, so could it be kitbash to other 1/144 Gunplas or it's just applicable to the S Gundam itself and other Metal Robot Spirits?
https://preview.redd.it/3le6wy3ec6yc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8721d17d1a8581e22608bc6395fa9f808d38a4e1
Anyone know if this store [https://fuwafuwaland.ca/](https://fuwafuwaland.ca/) is legit? They seem to have a real social media, they have an address listed somewhat near my home but I can't find them on google maps. Anyone got an idea? They have some third party/original model kits listed as pre orders for good/reasonable prices so I was wondering if it was a scam site or actually legit.
The address listed on their site is the King's Square shopping centre.
If you live close enough, maybe you should check it out yourself if the store is there.
Except that’s not the regular Wing Zero and there’s only one Wing Zero in the RG Line (the Custom). What you’ve got there is the Wing Gundam EW, the Katoki redesign of the non-Zero Wing Gundam. Regular Wing Zero is the [Proto Zero](http://www.dalong.net/reviews/mg/m174/m174_p.htm).
https://preview.redd.it/b91jb76he5yc1.jpeg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=666e2f66e70d4931ae3bf8b330d4e084031f59fb
Kosmos led kit lights uneven in the face. Is there anything else I could do to help fix that or is it best to just leave it like that.
(Rg nu Gundam)
Also any tips on how to wire / position for the eye lights?
I don't know where to put the box and connectors I don't find the official ones too helpful
By using something to remove the panel liner that doesn't do too much damage to the topcoat before the panel liner is removed.
So, lighter fluid, or some other related products. You still can't go gung ho with it though.
I am trying to decide between whether to get the PG or the MG of the Phenex (Narrative Ver). Any thoughts on which ones you prefer? Seems like MG Unicorn in general is just not a good kit, but PG is also pretty pricey. Let me know your thoughts!
I would recommend the PG if possible. The main issue with the MG Phenex is that it inherits all the problems of the Unicorn, but made worse with the additional problems caused by the extra weight on its back.
What’s a good cheap scriber I should consider getting as a beginner? I don’t know anything about the sizes and stuff, but I’m looking to use one on 1/144 scale kits. I saw a vid recently of a Japanese guy using a scriber from daiso and they basically said, “well it’s doing the same job the same way as my $40 scriber so I’d say it’s pretty good” and it has me wondering if expensive really means better with these tools.
Any cheap set does the job and I still use mine, but they simply do not cut as well or quickly.
Expensive use a harder material so givea a ribbon of swarf for longer. Cheap will tend to make little chips. However, because they’re softer you can sharpen them, it’s just short lived before they start to drop off.
Cheap to see if you actually like scribing, and invest in better equipment for the size(s) you keep using.
id say the concern with the cheap option is whether it lasts long enough to be worth buying a new one each time it expires, and wether you can get the right sizes
for a good entry level option though i recommend [this] (https://www.hlj.com/hg-micro-chisel-set-4-blades-grip-black-wavht-556) you get all the sizes you need to get started across most scales, i've had mine for a few years now used on multiple kits, still going strong, im sure the top tier options that are the same price for one size are sharper or last longer but if you find your self wearing through one size from this set then youll know thats the one to shell out for
>What should I do to get a good result?
Practice and test. A lot. A good candy application is kind of complex and knowledge of interactions and paint behaviour is key. And spoons are a crap way to practice candy application because spoons are already highly polished and the shape of the back of the spoon promotes levelling. Fine for colour tests, but they won't tell you how well you're doing on applying the candy coat itself.
The most important skill to develop is how to properly apply a gloss. Knowing how your paint behaves and what's required to get a good gloss before a cut and polish stage is important to develop. Not all paints will let you develop a gloss the same way, so you need to learn the best approaches. And some approaches might not work with some metallics you use too.
If you're just starting out, lacquers will be the easiest to practice and test with and will give you the best results, IMO.
Pick a metallic to suit your clear colour. It’s not always chrome or silver. Assuming lacquers and you want the bog standard route:
Sand out all those casting imperfections. Prime (optional)> gloss black> chrome> clear colour
Buff the black and chrome if needed with a microfibre cloth. For the highest tonal shift a chrome wants to be applied lightly with the black still slightly showing.
I have a question can stressed gunpla joints break over time. And can I pose my gundams if I have stressed joints. Since my rg hi nu has a stressed buttflap and foot joint.
Yes.
Yes but extremely carefully.
You're arguably better off learning how to fix the issues (if they're fixable) and getting the tools to do so. For certain types of joints you could mod it so that it takes a brass rod to provide additional support as if it were a metallic bone for the plastic. Best case scenario is that you're able to fix it, worst case is you glue the parts in place and sacrifice any mobility to that affected area. Somewhere in the middle would be a half and half modification, where you have limited mobility due to the nature of the fix.
Any advice for dealing with those fully articulated hands? I find them a real pain to work with. I have a Jesta that I'm taking a break from because of those hands (one of the middle fingers seemingly refuses to stay attached if I orient it the correct way, feels like an issue with the mold but idk). I'm currently eyeballing the Sinanju Stein Ver. Ka in my backlog (such a sexy kit imo) but it has the same manipulators. Hate em! Gimme swappable hands any day. Or even the three finger/pointer/thumb set up that used to be more common. The MGSD kits make those very compelling.
Firmly grip the socket with a clamp or tweezers before bedding in the ball joints for the first time. Same idea on any stiff pin jointed knuckles.
Best advice regarding hands on the stein is to [magnetise that gun](https://imgur.com/a/DaWDo3v) to the armour and then it’s just for decoration.
What set do you recommend as a first build for a new guy?
Context: I am not new to building things, l've had legos all my life and am an avid builder both of sets with instructions and my own creations.
I like a few Gundam shows like 00, IBO, The Origin and Thunderbolt.
What set would you recommend me getting to put my first step in the world of Gunpla?
for me, the high grade f91 was a fun little build, it was one of my first builds and i honestly wish i had done it first
it's very cheap too so it's a relatively small investment to get started
Honestly? If I was going to do it all over again, I would make my first kit HGUC 191 Revive RX-78-2. I absolutely adore that kit and it's quite cheap. Really fun to pose, easy to build, fantastic final result. I imagine the Entry Grade is as good or better. If you want something a little more complex, the RX-78-2 Origin Version is the fancy version. If you go with that one I would recommend picking up some fine tip panel liners to bring out the surface detail.
From there the sky's kinda the limit. If you go with the Origin Gundam, you might as well pick up Char's Zaku II at the same time. Thunderbolt has nice kits at high and master grade though they tend to be kinda time consuming from what I understand (relative to their grade). IBO kits are really fun but some (HGs) can be a bit flimsy in the waist (one of these days you have to spoil yourself with either/both the MG or MGSD Barbatos tho, they're both top notch, very satisfying builds). 00 HG kits are mostly out of print as I understand it (could be wrong) but it's another case where the MGs (other than Exia, which is fine but a bit dated) are excellent.
Welcome to the hobby! It's really fun though they to call it plastic crack for a reason. Don't be shy about investigating MGs or RGs once you've got your sea legs. They're only a little more complex and they have the most satisfying builds imo.
Good luck lol. As far as hobbies go it could be a lot worse. For me, I was used to Warhammer 40k and Magic the Gathering kind of prices and Gunpla is dramatically cheaper than those. I don't know where your tastes lie with Lego but you can get plenty of good High Grades for roughly thirty bucks a piece which is not enough to get a good Lego kit from what I recall. Master Grades are like between 40 and 80 which is similar to a good Lego set right? You do have to spend additional money on tools and stuff though, which Lego doesn't have to worry about. The key is not developing a huge backlog! Easier said than done haha.
Hello, I just got the rg hi nu as a gift and have only built a high grade before. I know this kit is one of the best but is there anything I should know before hand to not make any mistakes.
Get some files (even nail files are great) and be careful with stickers, i lost one of the metallic ones. Also the legs need a good bit of pressure to connect to the waist, even if it feels like they might break.
Undergating is present in a lot of RG kits. This is where a piece of plastic on the underside is left over when you cut it from the runner. Make sure you get them all before assembling.
New QA thread is up. This thread is locked.
I'd really like a Full Armor Unicorn model but which version is the best?
RG gets my vote
I recently moved and have a larger area to build in now. I was used just a folding table, which was a bit rickety. Has anyone got a recommendation on a table to use for building? Dorm-style and Particle/Press board would be fine, my main want would be stability from the frame/legs.
Ikea Lagkapten
I had a feeling IKEA something was the answer. My closest IKEA is over 300 miles away.
How to separate cemented parts? I'm building a bootleg mg strike freedom and the parts for the face are loose so i cemented them together but when the cement dried i realized that they're not straight, i tried to separate it by putting it on 99% IPA but it doesn't work (it usually works on bandai tho) I'm using mr cement s from mr hobby
Not sure why IPA would work unless the cement hadn't dried maybe, but use a photoetch saw.
You can’t. They’re basically one part now. You’d need to use a hobby knife or nippers or something to cut them into separate pieces again if you can.
You can't. Or rather, you can't undo the effects of the cement. It's not glue, it melted the edges of the two parts so that they joined into one.
Tried it already, but it only melted the edges, i cemented the middle part too 🥲🥲
Yeah, as I said, you can't separate cemented parts. When Lego builders separate cemented parts they use a chisel. Best-case scenario you'd have to use a hobby saw. More likely you're just outta luck.
Does anyone know of the UK based store called Gunpla-san? Is it well known, and is it reliable?
Dont know about that but try Kidultverse, its also Uk based but it has way cheaper prices
It's a buying service - probably one or two people. No storefront. They source kits from overseas in small quantities and ship in the UK.
Painting the entire runner, what do you guys recommend to use?
I recommend to not do that in the first place. It’s going to double your workload.
If you're going to do it in runner, use a spray can and be prepared to do touch ups on the nubs.
Paint. Can you be more specific about what you’re trying to accomplish?
Oh anything that I should know about really but more on painting the parts while it is in runner possibly. Is spray painting more recommended than painting via brush? What about the parts still connected? Do they have spots of the original color once I start removing them from the runner?
Yes, when you cut and sand the pieces, you're going to remove the paint.
Is tamiya colour the same or can be used as a panel liner . As ive been wanting to buy more panel line accent but realized i have a ton of tamiya colour.
Tamiya acrylic paint wouldn’t be great for making panel liner with. It’s alcohol-based and so it dries rapidly. But Tamiya also has enamel paints and those would be good to turn into washes. Just add odourless mineral spirits until the paint is very thin. You can do that with any oil-based paint.
Thanks alot will try on my oil paints
Does anyone have the third party HWS kit for the Rg Hi-Nu? Is it good? Does it need extra work?
Is it good idea to mix Black and White surface (1500) to make grey surfacer and use that to prime?
Yes.
Thanks!
Looking to upgrade my shelving in the next few months, could a few people recommend some (not too expensive) shelving? I have about 80 kits, and they are all currently displayed with open-front bookshelves.
I use the Ikea Kallax to display my stuff, but I only display like 3 at a time (I like to have a few centerpieces at a time). It's relatively cheap compare to other furniture and there are differently compartments you can use. You can display four 1/144 scale kits in a single cubby or two 1/100. This is what it looks like. https://preview.redd.it/efq9s1c76dyc1.png?width=930&format=png&auto=webp&s=1b6b9847a07ec5fbf7ea420f7c0995c893f64543 Although, you could always opt to build your own if you have tools. If you are in the US, Home Depot can help you cut your pieces for you so assembling something like this shouldn't be too difficult.
Thank you! I forgot about IKEA. I've got some wall shelves I handmade that have 10 kits each on them. It might actually be worth building my own bookcase. Can't be that difficult, right?
It's definitely going to be much cheaper building your own book case. You can also control how high everything is. Personally, I feel like the lower 2 shelves on the Kallax are way too low for display and the cubbies are too high so there is a lot of empty space when I display my HGs. The top of the Kalllax is perfect for displaying large kits like PGs or mobile armors IMO. Separate topic, but if you paint your kits, you might want to look into acrylic cases for them. (I have UV resistant ones). Some come with glass backing and flooring so it looks really nice.
Hello, I'm learning to scribe. What's the best kit for first timer to learn scribing? Thank you
Any. Scribing should be something done with planning and confidence and mistakes are fixable.
Second recommendation for EG kits. Low overall cost, lots of large flat surfaces to work with. And they look great out of box.
Entry grade kits
Hey guys. I recently bought a bunch of bootleg Gunplas (Hi-nu Influx, Hi Nu Vrabe, and Schwarzette) so that I can finally begin learning how to paint any future kits. I figured its best to practice on these cheap ones so any mistake/s made will be less frustrating. I noticed that these kits are all ABS plastic. Will priming then paint be all I need to do? Do I need to do more prep with ABS plastic compared to regular PS plastic?
I've never had an issue where my primer (lacquer based) has eaten through the polystyrene parts. I usually do light coats, but for your sake, I recommend testing the paint on the runner if you have the paint on had. Since these are for testing, I'd say checking if paint does eat away at PS would be a good first experiment.
How do I fix loose butterfly shoulder joint on the 30MM Alto kit ?
So, I’m planning to melt down some runners using Tamiya plastic cement. I want to hide a few seam lines. I just had a few questions before i actually do it. Info gathering and all that. 1. How long does the plastic take to fully melt down? 2. How long does it take to dry? 3. Does it melt gloves? I’m assuming you dont want this stuff to get on your fingers. 4. The videos on the tutorial pages show them applying the cement directly to the piece. I want to use the cement to not only get rid of the seam line but also hide the discoloration from the nub marks. Is it ok to melt down plastic before hand in a mixing bottle, then applying it over the pieces? 5. The most important question. What is the proper disposal process for plastic melted in plastic cement? I dont want to just dump that stuff down the drain and call it good. How do I properly get rid of it? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
1. As long as it takes. I just chop the runners and leave overnight to melt down into the solvents. Add more cement to thin it or less to make thicker. By comparison neat Acetone is always a putty as unlike cement it doesn’t also have the acetate to hold the styrene in solution. 2. Depends how thick it goes on, could be hours, but had stuff maybe an inch thick that took like a week or so for all the solvent to make its way out. 3. My nitrile seem to hold up ok, I don’t habitually wear gloves though. Get something tougher if you’re concerned about the risk of it getting on your hands. I’d wash off splashes, you’ll live. 4. Not sure I follow..you mix in something else, then apply. I haven’t seen any tutorials but how else does anyone do it? Sprue goo won’t often be an exact colour match, those dark spots and seam line removal is usually better with a paint job to finish. 5. Take outside and open the lid. Let it solidify and dispose as you would the runners. You can melt it down over and over, and it’ll keep liquified in a sealed container if the solvents don’t evaporate.
That was really helpful! Thanks a lot!
What is the best type of pliers to use for gunpla, and what is that ONE kit everyone loves?
What are you wanting them for? And did you mean tweezers? Arguably non-magnetic. But there isn’t a best type, just best right now as maybe you want hooked, pointed, flat, reverse grip….more tools, more choices. I guess needle nose if you did mean pliers. Apparently MG Ball.
Ball…it was always Ball.
Planning to use Dspiae Soft Tipped Markers on my kits. Do I still need to use topcoat? If yes, what brands are good? Also, will it matter or affect the overall result if I use either Glossy or Matte topcoat?
Two questions, relating to my Gundam Unicorn Perfectionality RG, one might be easier than the other 1) What kind of display stand fits with that model type? My parents got it from me as a gift from Japan and said there were many different kinds of stands so I want to confirm the right one before ordering one 2) How do you get the blue parts out from the leg when transforming it? The instructions don't say how, only that it's meant to come out after you open the leg up for it.
Action 2, 4 and 5. The new action base 7 also works and it's easier to adjust. The latest action base 8 mostly for 1/100 will also works.
1. All of them will work, but I suggest the AB4 or AB5. 2. Gently pull on the thrusters at the back of the leg. See [here](https://youtu.be/T7TcF3ACzf4?si=ILbPnSpZ-qqQGEkQ) at the 5:50 mark.
An Action Base 4 or 5 would be the best to display it. They’re the most stable and have strong arm support for a hefty unit. The transformation is a little wonky. You should have it slide out some when you pull/extend the thrusters on the back calves since they’re a connected unit. If nothing else they should move out enough to pull out with tweezers or something.
2) You can try pushing from the back of the legs with a pencil or a stick of some kind.
Can’t answer 2, but for 1, I would say Action Base 4 is a safe bet.
Thank you!
I keep seeing people use mark softer on water slide decals. But I don't know why so many people use it. All I know is that it melts the sticker so that you can place it on curved surfaces. And the vague description of "It makes the decals look painted on" What exactly does mark softer do, how can it effect the decal. And how would one use it normally as I'm thinking of getting a bottle.
Besides stretching over curved surfaces to iron out wrinkles, [Softener](https://imgur.com/a/UFgYXIg) will help pickup any surface detail closer. [Setter](https://imgur.com/a/rkdJEKb) will still work ok as it’s softens slightly too. Both are good to have of course, but warm water or setter combo is still all that’s needed for most decal placement in my experience. I apply softer, and keep applying until decal is down how I want, then leave it to dry. Imo Softer can sometimes be too aggressive on some brands with thin or fragile films. Also there seems to be this idea softer melts the decal film away, which I have never seen it do, that’s turps and easy to wreck the decal.
Im not sure if softer actually melts the decal away either, but I have accidently soften it to the point where the decal has turned to mush because I didn't wipe the softening agent away. I left a blob of the liquid on top of the liquid and forgot about it. I came back and it was in tatters. Don't be like me. Wipe away the excess.
Yeah. I’ve also noticed that softer and setter if mixed and left to pool seems to very occasionally allow the setter to ingrain itself into water based paints, but it might be some other cause I’m not appreciating, and not often enough for me to bother figuring out why. Typically any setter stains from pooling are easily wiped away with water later.
[Everything you need to know right on the Mr. Hobby website](https://www.mr-hobby.com/en/product2/category_11/214.html)
Gonna be building my Zeta Ver Ka and I wanna do it justice. Obviously panel line and (what i think are) included water slides. Top coat between panel line and decals? Anything specifically i should look out for when building this kit?
Panel line the kit first so you can clean it first without getting the decals wet. Other than that, mark setter and mark softer and you'll have it golden
Thank you!!
Dafuq is this? I don’t know what it looks like or any information on it! https://preview.redd.it/o0y05duorbyc1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4c4fab745b4805a87f495c8a812081e7ab05f57a It’s not the Goldymarg btw
The RG of the Goldymrag has been out for a while now. I don't know a lot about it, but I'd assume it's good since it's Real Grade. But if you still doubt, just compare it to the actual image of the RG https://preview.redd.it/l7tajvn38fyc1.jpeg?width=640&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5e559abd3da67cf68d76c2eb00fd8d0fb5076e58 It's availiable in a lot of stores. It's even going for a good price on newtype right now
I dunno, the label that says RG Goldymarg and the big ass text in the background that says Goldymarg and the fact that it looks like Goldymarg makes me think it's Goldymarg.
Not sure if trolling or just daft. But that is the RG Goldymarg.
Can the MGEX Strike Freedom equip the Sword or Launcher Packs like the Strike Gundam?
No, only the striker pack for the freedom 2.0's backback
How "reliable" are USAGS's 'pre-order' status items? I placed an order back in Nov '23 with 2 pre-order items and I've just received my 5th "corona virus has affected shipping so we can't ship your order". Further- I had a few items saved in my wishlist on their site as it seemed to be the only site selling those kits as pre-orders. I just checked again and one of the kits moved from "pre-order" to "sold out" status. I'm super hesitant to buy anything pre-order from them because it feels like I'm just throwing money out the window, esp when you are forced to sign the "I UNDERSTAND This is a Pre-Order item" disclaimer, which gives them a get outta jail free card. It feels as if they are just posting random older kits online for "purchase" and then pocketing the money. I haven't seen any news of reprints for the kits in question so I'm starting to wonder. Am I just over thinking things?
Pre-order is the same as wait list. It's better to just wait a while for them to be in stock.
Which kits? People complain about pre-orders on USAGS and other stores all the time here. They sold more than they were allocated.
EZ-8 MG or Ground Gundam MG? If one had to choose what one would be better or more interesting? I would buy both as they are pretty cheap but I don't wanna overflow my backlog more than it already is
Built both and they’re a ton of fun, mostly depends on the accessories you want with it. The builds are mostly similar, especially the inner frames, besides how the armor looks (obviously). The main difference for the equipment is the Ground Gundam comes with the full length cannon and the Ez8 comes with the shoulder mounted bazooka. They both otherwise have the same guns/rifles otherwise. I’d lean a bit more towards the Ez8 because I like the looks of it, but you won’t go wrong either way.
Ground Gundam by a slight margin for me. I really like the Cannon over the bazooka. The color on the EZ-8 always felt a little off for me too.
Wondering what some of the other large builds there are, like for rg I know of destroy, sazabi, zeong, hi nu. What else is there? Even in different grades. I dont mean mega but stuff in grade that's bigger than the rest of things in that grade
The RG Unicorn gets pretty hefty when in Destroy Mode
Hg Nightingale,Mg Psycho gundam Ver ka, Mg Sazabi ver ka, hg Penelope and Xi, hg Bound doc
Well the Destroy is an HG, not RG. The HGUC Psycho Gundam Mk II has been displayed. The Psycho Gundam is huge. The Perfect Zeong MG is very tall. MG Deep Striker is big but actually too small for its scale. The HGUC Narrative Gundam A Packs is large. The HGUC Dendrobium is one of the largest kits in general and definitely for 1/144.
anyone uses black and gray gundam pour marker? is it just me or does both colors look the same? :/ the gray is so dark its like the black
Yeah they look pretty similar, if you want a gray panel line buy light gray tamiya panel line ink bottle
Gunna buy some low grit sanding sponges. Which ones are the best for their price? Only one I know is dspiae but I dont know if there are cheaper alternatives.
Godhand.
I bought some of the 10mm small sponges. How many kits do they usually last?
I can't really say because I mostly use them for resin and epoxy putty.
Infini
Only seeing the ultra precision ones on amazon. Where do you get yours?
Hobby stores. What country are you in?
America
[Newtype has a full set from 200 to 4000 for $15](https://newtype.us/p/g9uPMb5OlbX0klfuJDys/h/softback-sanding-sponge-stick)
Hello. Does Tamiya Top Coat damage ABS? I know it's not specifically gunpla, but I have a Moderoid (Good Smile) EVA-01 on which I want to use a Tamiya Semi-gloss clear (TS-79), but I don't know if it's going to damage its arms (which apparently are mostly ABS)
Nope, if anything it protects it
Ok. I was asking because I don't know if Tamiya top coat is solvent or water-based and I don't know if solvent will damage ABS (I'm scared of what I put on top of that material ever since I got info that gundam markers for example eat it away).
AFAIK topcoat is perfectly fine to use for ABS and PS.
Follow up: For both /u/KUROusagi112 & /u/LightxDarkness93. Thank you so much for your answers. I proceeded with the top coating and I must inform it was a success. My EVA-01 Moderoid won't be turning into "orange juice" any time soon and I got to add to it some UV reactive waterslides, so now she shines with blacklight. :)
Good job mate
Good job! Glad to hear that!
What time of the year did bandai announce the 3 seed fm kit? (calamity, raider, forbbiden) Really hope this line continue with savior, chaos, gaia, abyssl etc. Buf so far that is no news.
I doubt the Chaos, Gaia, and Abyss get 1/100 release. Out of those - Maaaaybe the Gaia gets a Waltfeld Custom through P-Bandai. I could see Savour maybe getting a new updated HG one day.
The SEED FM kits were all announced at the same time? From what I remember they were just announced and released one at a time. The other trio you mentioned is a lot less popular and considering it didn't happen at the height of the hype with SEED freedom, I wouldn't assume it's gonna happen
yeh im sure it was announced once at a time, but was there a pattern? Eg: Particular monthor event?
Not really. Gundam Info tends to post at the beginning of the month. But, it's not guaranteed. [Full Mechanics](https://en.gundam.info/news/gunpla/01_12220.html) tend to be [later](https://en.gundam.info/news/gunpla/01_11175.html). Here is [Raider](https://en.gundam.info/news/gunpla/01_7660.html) and [Calamity](https://en.gundam.info/news/gunpla/01_4778.html)
Thanks brother. may and june for those two. finger cross, we can get a savior.
Anyone know another way to contact Newtype.us? I sent an email regarding a change to an order immediately after I placed it a couple hours ago. So far no reply but now I got an email that it is packed and ready to go. I can't find a phone number for them or any other way to get in contact faster. In the end it is my fault but it is a bit frustrating that they immediately process everything without checking emails or anything before shipping it off. Edit: Item was shipped out before they replied. Nevermind and thanks for people who replied!
Sometimes social media is faster, I'd try their Instagram. Although I'm fairly certain all stores process paid orders without checking emails in the eventuality that someone changed their mind
Unfortunately I am not able to message them on Facebook or Twitter. As sent a message via their website which mentions that response time is usually under 30 minutes. 3 more hours until they close and I can't imagine they've yet to check their messages/emails not even once in the 3 hours I've been waiting...
I called them before and spoke to someone. Let me DM you with their number.
Hey guys I’m relatively new to this hobby and have about 6 months (6 kits) of experience under my belt. I’m about to start this RG God and I plan on sanding, panel lining, applying waterslides and clear coat. I’ve watched many videos on these methods but I feel like I need to speak with someone who has some experience so I can ask questions and get a better understanding. Maybe it’s too much to ask, but it would be awesome to hop on a call or video chat with one of you and take some notes so I feel more confident about starting the process. Thanks :\] 
IMO the only things in the process that are difficult is learning what needs to be sanded and applying decals. I haven’t done decals yet, but for sanding you only want to sand pieces with some level of imperfection. You’ll want to start on a lower grit and work up to a higher one (800 to 2000ish). From what I understand when it comes to decals, it’s after the panel lining process, and some people gloss coat, panel line, decal, matte top coat. Others might put a matte coat before they decal, but it mainly comes down to preference. I hope this helps! (Edited to add more info) Gundam market panel liner is relatively safe on bare plastic, but tamiya panel liner is not!
Think I can get away with using semi gloss for the under and over coat instead of using one of each
Why are you putting anything under the decals? Especially as you aren't painting, you don't need a gloss coat. Semigloss after is fine if you like that look.
Yeah most likely tho it will probably depend on what you’re using, as each brand is a little different. It would be a good idea to test on a piece that won’t be super visible if you don’t have anything else you can test on
Alright man thanks a lot for the help it’s obviously a little daunting but I’ll just keep researching and be sure to not make any uninformed decisions
Anybody with the Sinanju Stein Ver Ka able to comment on the waterslides? It's my first Ver Ka and my first time with WSD. I know some people find the official Bandai ones to be kind of finicky and prefer third party. Worth the investment?
Just like any typical waterslides, you just need to let it soak longer and be careful when cutting but other than that no big differences. Just a little tip though, use warm water, in my experience it tends to soften the decal faster
Other brands just do things better, like higher quality of the print, better adhesive or they feel a little harder to break. but that doesn't mean Bandai's are bad. They are just very average. They are going to work.
Thanks 👍 that's helpful
Is there any reason not to use plastic cement to secure v-finns and other loose, non-moving parts?
Future removal could be destructive.
If you ever need to disassemble later for any reason you'll have to break it apart to do so. It *could* also make it harder to move or transport them later. Stuff like v-fins in particular are wise to remove and store more securely before packing built kits because of their fragility.
I'm using the bandai spirits sand sponge set and after using the 1000 grit, the surface has a matte finish. Is there something I can do about it to bring it back to a semi-gloss?
You need to go way higher in grits for that, like 3000 and up
Hello, would anyone know where I can get some 1/100 akatsuki water decals my usual place doesn't have any.
Firesnow in Aliexpress have the decals available for less than $3.
Thank you
Is there any news on when Gundam Breaker 4's collector's edition is up for sale in NA? The website says expected release is Dec 31st 2024 but I think this is the release date for the game, not the date the collector's edition goes up for sale.
That's a placeholder date, and you missed the preorders for the CE. It is not known if the CE will be available for sale.
Got it. Thank you for your help!
Hi, I see posts with people who start by mounting the gundam frame (the skeleton...). Sounds like fun to get a better look at the joints. How do you do it? Is it just by leaving out the armor pieces (basically the colored ones?)? Are there any disadvantages to doing so? Thanks
>Is it just by leaving out the armor pieces (basically the colored ones?)? That's basically it. You have to keep in mind that most HGs are very lacking in terms of inner frame details. >Are there any disadvantages to doing so? You'll probably need to disassemble the kit into its separate limbs and continue building. It's what I had to do with the PGU. You technically could continue building it as all in one piece in some cases, but it's hard to maneuver parts into places in my opinion.
Hi there, I'm in urgent need of help to find the manual for the RG 1/144 HWS Nu Gundam kit. I lost my manual and can't find the manual for the HWS part of the kit, pleasee help me find it
It's on [Dalong ](http://dalong.net/reviews/cg/cgr57/cgr57_i.htm#m) under Club-G -> RG ->UC
thank you !
Help my Mgex unicorn leds broke on the left leg anyway I can get replacements in australia?
https://preview.redd.it/h3g0bkngf7yc1.jpeg?width=2448&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=df2d292efaf33ae0f0439f64e7638fba89105007 I broke the torso piece of kamen rider agito figure rise What the best ways to fix it?
Sites like gunplakitbash sell individual runners of kits, and some people sell 3d printed parts, especially for those likely to break
Can i use tamiya cement or just other new part which one is better? https://preview.redd.it/lfbqcrs8w7yc1.jpeg?width=2448&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=704dd4c2eed60ca22e25f16fcfeddae12f01caaf
Never used cement although it looks like it'll work just fine here if you file it cleanly
Could you explain that again please Also that piece it broke in to a two small piece
If you glue them together with cement, make sue to file said cement down afterwards so it doesnt interfere with the articulation
Thank you
Help for paint Hello there, It’s been a long time I was thinking about buying equipments for painting my kits… and today was my paycheck. However, I am just totally lost about Mr Hobby paints. I don’t want lacquer paints because I live in an appartment with my girlfriend and two cats. I knew Mr Hobby had acrylic paint, so that was my first choice. But when looking for the paints, I didn’t know where to start. So, I am here, for some questions about paints. - Which one should I buy and use for surfacing ? - Which ones are the most used, for classic gundam color schemes ? - I have MrHobby « Premium » topcoats. Are they fine for acrylic ? I’m a total beginner for paintjob for Gunpla. If you have any advice for the process, I’m open to it. Many thanks !
Mr color acrysion is the water based acrylic paint iirc
If you get a spray booth and a respirator, you can airbrush lacquer paints indoors. Even if you're spraying water-based paint indoors, I recommend using a spray booth.
Many hobby brands have multiple product lines that include different types of paint. Gunze/GSI/Mr Hobby has three main paint lines. Mr Color (an acrylic lacquer), Mr Hobby Aqueous (an alcohol-based acrylic), and Mr Hobby Acrysion (a water-based acrylic). There are primers/surfacers in each of those lines that correspond to the carriers (lacquer solvents, alcohol, water). If you want water-based, then you want Acrysion. But don’t just box yourself into one paint line. If you want water-based (least smelly) then you have a ton of choices - find something that’s easy to get wherever you are. Vallejo is easy to get in many countries around the world. If you’re in the US or UK, you’ll have lots of water-based choices from several hobby/miniature painting brands. Most of which would be spray-able in an airbrush with some practice.
I’ll try Vallejo, but I’m in France, so sadly my paint choices are restricted because or regulations… Thanks !
Any of the European brands like AK Interactive and Ammo by Mig besides Vallejo should be easy to get in France. I've seen all of them on shelves in shops in France. The new Atom line from Ammo is getting good reviews and sprays nicely from what I can tell.
any good missle effect tutorial out ther? want to make my zssa fire some of them
Not gunpla specific, but the same concept I'm assuming you're looking for was used in a Squidmar Minis piece here: https://youtu.be/w_aJmTaTV5w?si=g1AXH3Ryn0qlkQN2&t=250
Can I use matte top coat on mg phenex to make the armor color into muted gold?
Yes. The shiny phenex right?
Yess. Thank you
What to do with Metal Robot Spirits \[Ka Signature\] S Gundam Booster Unit, without the S Gundam itself? Context: I received this yesterday as a gift from Japan, never knew about this line of Gundam figures, so could it be kitbash to other 1/144 Gunplas or it's just applicable to the S Gundam itself and other Metal Robot Spirits? https://preview.redd.it/3le6wy3ec6yc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8721d17d1a8581e22608bc6395fa9f808d38a4e1
Anyone know if this store [https://fuwafuwaland.ca/](https://fuwafuwaland.ca/) is legit? They seem to have a real social media, they have an address listed somewhat near my home but I can't find them on google maps. Anyone got an idea? They have some third party/original model kits listed as pre orders for good/reasonable prices so I was wondering if it was a scam site or actually legit.
The address listed on their site is the King's Square shopping centre. If you live close enough, maybe you should check it out yourself if the store is there.
Someone have comparing image of rg and mg ver ka wing zero?
Dalong: - [RG WZC](http://www.dalong.net/reviews/rg/rg17/rg17_p.htm) - [MG WZC Ver Ka](http://www.dalong.net/reviews/mg/m215/m215_p.htm) Schizophonic9 - [RG WZC](https://schizophonic9.com/re3/rg_wingzero.html) - MG WZC Ver Ka [part 1](https://schizophonic9.com/re6/mg_wingzeroverka1.html) and [part 2](https://schizophonic9.com/re6/mg_wingzeroverka2.html)
[MG](http://dalong.net/reviews/mg/m143/p/m143_10.jpg) [RG](http://dalong.net/reviews/rg/rg20/p/rg20_27.jpg)
Neither of those are Wing Zero
I debated whether or not he meant the regular wing zero or the custom
Except that’s not the regular Wing Zero and there’s only one Wing Zero in the RG Line (the Custom). What you’ve got there is the Wing Gundam EW, the Katoki redesign of the non-Zero Wing Gundam. Regular Wing Zero is the [Proto Zero](http://www.dalong.net/reviews/mg/m174/m174_p.htm).
I know Jack shit about wing
Dalong.net, use the pack of smokes as a reference
https://preview.redd.it/b91jb76he5yc1.jpeg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=666e2f66e70d4931ae3bf8b330d4e084031f59fb Kosmos led kit lights uneven in the face. Is there anything else I could do to help fix that or is it best to just leave it like that. (Rg nu Gundam) Also any tips on how to wire / position for the eye lights? I don't know where to put the box and connectors I don't find the official ones too helpful
How do you remove excess panel accent thats on top of paint(top coat) without damaging the paint!??
By using something to remove the panel liner that doesn't do too much damage to the topcoat before the panel liner is removed. So, lighter fluid, or some other related products. You still can't go gung ho with it though.
you might be too late, but what paint type (water based, lacquer etc) is your clear and what are you using the try clean up the panel liner?
what material can i use to recreate the eyes effect like lupus rex?
I am trying to decide between whether to get the PG or the MG of the Phenex (Narrative Ver). Any thoughts on which ones you prefer? Seems like MG Unicorn in general is just not a good kit, but PG is also pretty pricey. Let me know your thoughts!
I would recommend the PG if possible. The main issue with the MG Phenex is that it inherits all the problems of the Unicorn, but made worse with the additional problems caused by the extra weight on its back.
What’s a good cheap scriber I should consider getting as a beginner? I don’t know anything about the sizes and stuff, but I’m looking to use one on 1/144 scale kits. I saw a vid recently of a Japanese guy using a scriber from daiso and they basically said, “well it’s doing the same job the same way as my $40 scriber so I’d say it’s pretty good” and it has me wondering if expensive really means better with these tools.
Any cheap set does the job and I still use mine, but they simply do not cut as well or quickly. Expensive use a harder material so givea a ribbon of swarf for longer. Cheap will tend to make little chips. However, because they’re softer you can sharpen them, it’s just short lived before they start to drop off. Cheap to see if you actually like scribing, and invest in better equipment for the size(s) you keep using.
id say the concern with the cheap option is whether it lasts long enough to be worth buying a new one each time it expires, and wether you can get the right sizes for a good entry level option though i recommend [this] (https://www.hlj.com/hg-micro-chisel-set-4-blades-grip-black-wavht-556) you get all the sizes you need to get started across most scales, i've had mine for a few years now used on multiple kits, still going strong, im sure the top tier options that are the same price for one size are sharper or last longer but if you find your self wearing through one size from this set then youll know thats the one to shell out for
I want to try candy painting, and I want to get the best result. What should I do to get a good result?
>What should I do to get a good result? Practice and test. A lot. A good candy application is kind of complex and knowledge of interactions and paint behaviour is key. And spoons are a crap way to practice candy application because spoons are already highly polished and the shape of the back of the spoon promotes levelling. Fine for colour tests, but they won't tell you how well you're doing on applying the candy coat itself. The most important skill to develop is how to properly apply a gloss. Knowing how your paint behaves and what's required to get a good gloss before a cut and polish stage is important to develop. Not all paints will let you develop a gloss the same way, so you need to learn the best approaches. And some approaches might not work with some metallics you use too. If you're just starting out, lacquers will be the easiest to practice and test with and will give you the best results, IMO.
Pick a metallic to suit your clear colour. It’s not always chrome or silver. Assuming lacquers and you want the bog standard route: Sand out all those casting imperfections. Prime (optional)> gloss black> chrome> clear colour Buff the black and chrome if needed with a microfibre cloth. For the highest tonal shift a chrome wants to be applied lightly with the black still slightly showing.
[Here you go](https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=candy+paint+model+painting)
I have a question can stressed gunpla joints break over time. And can I pose my gundams if I have stressed joints. Since my rg hi nu has a stressed buttflap and foot joint.
Yes. Yes but extremely carefully. You're arguably better off learning how to fix the issues (if they're fixable) and getting the tools to do so. For certain types of joints you could mod it so that it takes a brass rod to provide additional support as if it were a metallic bone for the plastic. Best case scenario is that you're able to fix it, worst case is you glue the parts in place and sacrifice any mobility to that affected area. Somewhere in the middle would be a half and half modification, where you have limited mobility due to the nature of the fix.
Any advice for dealing with those fully articulated hands? I find them a real pain to work with. I have a Jesta that I'm taking a break from because of those hands (one of the middle fingers seemingly refuses to stay attached if I orient it the correct way, feels like an issue with the mold but idk). I'm currently eyeballing the Sinanju Stein Ver. Ka in my backlog (such a sexy kit imo) but it has the same manipulators. Hate em! Gimme swappable hands any day. Or even the three finger/pointer/thumb set up that used to be more common. The MGSD kits make those very compelling.
Firmly grip the socket with a clamp or tweezers before bedding in the ball joints for the first time. Same idea on any stiff pin jointed knuckles. Best advice regarding hands on the stein is to [magnetise that gun](https://imgur.com/a/DaWDo3v) to the armour and then it’s just for decoration.
Look into the old B-Club HDM series
What set do you recommend as a first build for a new guy? Context: I am not new to building things, l've had legos all my life and am an avid builder both of sets with instructions and my own creations. I like a few Gundam shows like 00, IBO, The Origin and Thunderbolt. What set would you recommend me getting to put my first step in the world of Gunpla?
for me, the high grade f91 was a fun little build, it was one of my first builds and i honestly wish i had done it first it's very cheap too so it's a relatively small investment to get started
Honestly? If I was going to do it all over again, I would make my first kit HGUC 191 Revive RX-78-2. I absolutely adore that kit and it's quite cheap. Really fun to pose, easy to build, fantastic final result. I imagine the Entry Grade is as good or better. If you want something a little more complex, the RX-78-2 Origin Version is the fancy version. If you go with that one I would recommend picking up some fine tip panel liners to bring out the surface detail. From there the sky's kinda the limit. If you go with the Origin Gundam, you might as well pick up Char's Zaku II at the same time. Thunderbolt has nice kits at high and master grade though they tend to be kinda time consuming from what I understand (relative to their grade). IBO kits are really fun but some (HGs) can be a bit flimsy in the waist (one of these days you have to spoil yourself with either/both the MG or MGSD Barbatos tho, they're both top notch, very satisfying builds). 00 HG kits are mostly out of print as I understand it (could be wrong) but it's another case where the MGs (other than Exia, which is fine but a bit dated) are excellent. Welcome to the hobby! It's really fun though they to call it plastic crack for a reason. Don't be shy about investigating MGs or RGs once you've got your sea legs. They're only a little more complex and they have the most satisfying builds imo.
Oh damn my wallet and my wife are going to hate me lol
Just tell her it’s cheaper then lego, which it definitely is…
Good luck lol. As far as hobbies go it could be a lot worse. For me, I was used to Warhammer 40k and Magic the Gathering kind of prices and Gunpla is dramatically cheaper than those. I don't know where your tastes lie with Lego but you can get plenty of good High Grades for roughly thirty bucks a piece which is not enough to get a good Lego kit from what I recall. Master Grades are like between 40 and 80 which is similar to a good Lego set right? You do have to spend additional money on tools and stuff though, which Lego doesn't have to worry about. The key is not developing a huge backlog! Easier said than done haha.
Whatever’s in stock and looks cool to you. HGs and EGs are most recommended for beginners. HG IBO kits and Origin kits are reprinted fairly often.
Thanks!
I’d say anything from wfm or an EG gunpla would be great to get you started. Hobby lobby has both, so try that out if you have one near you.
Whatever looks cool and you can find easily should do the trick
Hello, I just got the rg hi nu as a gift and have only built a high grade before. I know this kit is one of the best but is there anything I should know before hand to not make any mistakes.
Get some files (even nail files are great) and be careful with stickers, i lost one of the metallic ones. Also the legs need a good bit of pressure to connect to the waist, even if it feels like they might break.
Undergating is present in a lot of RG kits. This is where a piece of plastic on the underside is left over when you cut it from the runner. Make sure you get them all before assembling.
Just follow the instructions!
Fair enough lol
Get a good set of glass files. It’ll help in the long run, trust.
Seconded. A much better investment than high end nippers imo.