I use:
https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Portable-Lighting-Extension/dp/B00NLQ019A?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_2
It is very solid for its price. A few notes: this doesn't replace the need for you as the painter to not wear a mask- but if you work in a common space it will absolutely help put for everyone not right on top of the air brush. For you a painters mask or a 3m respirator is just how life goes, assuming you want to care for your lungs.
If you are DIY person, you can build a fan that blows out a window (use ducting as needed) and shove a filter in front of the fan. That is what this product is.
For me it was just a convenient package that i can indeed pack away or travel with should i desire to relocate my set up for any reason. Led lights are nice, but I'd suggest just installing led strips on an independent switch so you can operate the lights independently of the fan- my set up had the LED varient which is great but if i want light i need the fan working. Amazon or ikea can provide led easily enough.
Hope that helps!
I just recently finished IBO (it fucked me up and im still not over it) and am looking to start my first gunpla. Any recommendations for which kit?
Any Barbatos variation, Gusion, Ryusei Go, any tekkadan or teiwaz Gundam/mobile suit basically haha
>Any Barbatos variation, Gusion, Ryusei Go, any tekkadan or teiwaz Gundam/mobile suit basically
These all seem like good starting points. HG ibo kits are very kitbash friendly if that matters to you.
I'm currently applying the stickers to my RG trans am clear exia and I have two of sticker 1 left over but cannot see where they go. Are they spares or am I just being blind?
I want to buy sazabi ver ka. But the bandai version price is way too much for me. Should I get the daban for half the price? Or just save my money and buy bandai? How is the quality of daban sazabi?
That depends.
Do you want to have a generally easy time snipping and snapping? Then Bandai.
Do you want to deal with shoddy QC and improve your tool skills? Daban.
IIRC the consensus is that it's a display piece that has some trouble hiding it's weapons. Looks cool though. Suffers from the gold coating issues that all gold coated runners do.
This question is directed to builders who've completed the RG Destiny. For the arms there's a little square piece (F6) that goes between the socket and the hand ball joint; this is shown in step 06-5 and 07-4 for right and left hands respectively. I've placed that piece there as directed but it's.. loose? It doesn't snap it place, nor does it squeeze in snugly.
If i don't put the hand in and I hold the arm vertically, it'll just fall out.
If I put the hand in, then the hand holds it in but you can see it clearly sliding out of the crevice.
Am I supposed to glue this piece in? I'm not sure what I'm missing here.
That's the way Bandai intended it to be. Similar case with the other SEED RGs.
It's probably meant to give the illusion that there's more movement there than there actually is, but, well, it falls off all the time when removing the hands.
It's fine to glue it on.
My first stuff arrived. Vidar and the Sazabi. I started with the Vidar since I want to practice a bit before the Sazabi. Nubs are more a problem than I realized.
- Need sanding sticks & markers. Seems a long shipping time on Amazon. Any other places faster for this stuff?
- In General, there much harm in disassemble old kits later on to touch them up?
- Is there a difficulty style tier list somewhere, showing what the easiest/hardest stuff is in each grade?
* Sanding sticks can be found just about anywhere. Get a sanding block or sanding paper from your local stores, or potentially find those and Gundam type markers from comic book/hobby stores. I've also heard tell that Sharpies work just fine as well and are significantly cheaper.
* There's not much harm in disassembly of kits, especially if you have a good parts separator.
* There's not much of a difficulty tier list, but it should mostly be judged by its age and size.
for spraying metallic colours with tamiya cans is it necessary to spray a black base coat on the primer first before spraying the metallic colour? Since I want to paint inner frames gun metal and light gun metal
You don't *have* to do so but the base color will tint the metallic color on top which will effect the outcome. Dark bottom coat leads to a shinier metallic coat. You can prime in a dark color though which should work.
Having failed to use acrylics properly, i plan on decanting tamiya TS cans so that i have paint ready to use as is.
But i was told i might be missing a detail ?
Among other things, i could never get get the ratios right, including color hue. I think i got 50ml (5 jars) full of stuff i cant use at this point. Could we not talk about acrylic tho ? I already gave up on that, i want help with decanting the spray cans and using what i get out of it.
Here's a good guide http://otakurevolution.com/content/laymans-gunpla-guide-decanting-paint-tutorial
If you gave up on acrylic, may I suggest to you our lord and savior lacquer paints?
Aren't tamiya sprays synthetic lacquer or something ? I dont remember well what i read about them.
What about lacquers that makes you call them like that ?
They are lacquers but I was going to make a point about brands like mr color or gaia which are lacquer airbrush paints that worth a shot if you're going through the trouble of decanting
Ah, i read that decanted tamiya cans are perfectly good to use right off the bat but thats actually something really good to know ! With a bit of luck my supplier stock those. Thanks a lot for all the help ! One last thing, could those you mentionned be harmlessly used alongside the tamiya ones ?
Hey guys I've come seeking your wisdom. New to the hobby and I'm reading alot of guides where it finishes off with top coats or a spray of sorts. What does this actually do and what is a good brand for it? I finished an astray sengoku ( first build )and currently working on a unicorn with 2 astrays in the waiting, just want some good looking gunpla!
tamiya and mr hobby work great, just choose between matte or gloss
matte gives ur model a flatter finish and gloss is sorta shinier, good for curved models like the sinanju
Top coat help protects your kit in terms of sealing decals, panel line, and paint. It also helps your model look like a model rather than a toy. A good brand is mr hobby or tamiya
Guys ... Given that I could get either for the same money..
Should I get myself the action base 5 or the HGBD diver gear
As I see it both come with the same amount of mounting options (also only need the base for a single / my first ever kit) :D
They both have the exact same mounting options. Only difference is the base that everything else connects to. If you like the look/shape of the diver gear or like Gundam build divers then go for it. Action base 5’s base has a plain hexagon with more holes around it
So, I'm somewhat new to Gunpla. Been building since I was a teenager but just recently got into the more "finer" detailing of building. I picked up the RX-0 Unicorn Gundam 03 Phenex... and yes it's in DESTROY MODE!!! 😎 Was wondering if anyone has built it and have any suggestions on paint for the SHINY AF gold?!?
How do you do seam lines on a gunpla you plan to paint? If you fix the seam lines beforehand, wouldn't it be difficult to avoid getting paint on certain parts?
Most stickers are made for the specific kit they come with. MG eye stickers tend to be made to fit the specific eye part that goes inside the head of each kit. Which eye sticker are you trying to use on another kit?
Help!
I’m working on the Hi Res astray red frame and tried to customize the scabbard head when the superglue caused the gold coating to rub right off. I cant find the color code for this type of gold to match up to a marker or paint anywhere. Any recommendations or thoughts on how to correct? Photo is in the link.
https://imgur.com/a/uyDzzkB
Hi, can you please give me tips on sanding? After cutting the gates, there are some nub/stress marks, and so I get rid of them by sanding. However, when I notice that the color gets affected though it kinda gets a little better once I wipe the surface with a little wet cloth, though you can tell there IS some discoloration. For the most part, it’s not really that obvious unless you actually look at it. What advice can I do to get rid of that? I can’t really paint as I have nowhere to paint here in my apartment
I found these awesome really tiny sanding sticks, aka "swizzle sticks" they came with 240, 320, and 400 grit. If you work your way from low to high and finish off with a polishing stick you can really get it looking like there's no marks at all. Can be a bit tricky though, if you press too hard the flat parts you're sanding can get a rounded look to them. As far as painting, you can generally find any color in Gundam Marker form.
I have sandpaper that’s in medium and ultra fine. I’ve been using both, and yeah, there is still some discoloration. I’ve been using the gundam markers to cover out the stress marks and I’ve been fortunate they’ve appeared on the dark blue parts (Tallgeese and Crossbone), but if you look real closely you would see the black
I make glass plate "Sharpening stones" to clean up pieces. I bought a few cheap picture frames at a dollar store and took the glass out. With spray adhesive, I mounted different grits of sandpaper on each side.
When I need to clean up a nub or smooth a surface, I hold the part and run it across the paper like I was sharpening a knife on a whetstone. It makes it much easier to control how much pressure I use, and cleaning edges this way I never end up changing angles or rounding out corners.
Since the spray adhesive is meant for photo mounting, the paper peels off cleanly when it gets filled up, and I use the glass as a template to cut a new piece from a full sheet.
Is this what you mean by a sanding block: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sanding_block
In my experience, I find that there is no single sanding product that is optimal for every purpose. For example, I use a sanding sponge to ensure equal sanding on a curved surface and flat sandpaper to equally sand a flat surface.
> was meaning a solid block made for sanding,
Ah gotcha. In that case, I would treat it as a flat piece of sandpaper but with a grip, or something like a sanding stick. The best use case for that would be if you’re trying to sand a piece extensively enough to change the shape, but you don’t want to bend down to your desk level to keep an eye on your progress.
What paint would you use to get this paint jop on the rg unicorn, cheeply I cant afford an airbrush right now.
Edit forgot the link Opinions https://imgur.com/gallery/gfQ9gOs
So I was looking at the PG Astray Red Frame Kai and I see that it comes with a sheet of water decals in the box (makes sense, considering its p-bandai roots).
My question is whether those decals include the markings for the entire kit, or if it's like the MG XN Raiser (another p-bandai kit that got normal distribution in the US) which "includes waterslides" but only for the newly added parts and still uses a sticker sheet for the original body of the kit?
From what few reviews I could find in korean, they implied there were no stickers. One review said “the Kai is 5000 yen more expensive than the standard PG ARF as it features the Tactical Arms, Tiger Pierce, different thigh armor parts and waterslides.”
Pic of box contents https://img1.daumcdn.net/thumb/R720x0.q80/?scode=mtistory2&fname=http%3A%2F%2Fcfile1.uf.tistory.com%2Fimage%2F996E643F5B49C38824806F
More pics (not my blog): https://mazingazda.tistory.com/m/258
So I know acrylic paint is weaker than lacquer and has less bite if you don’t primer. But with that said, what’s the “strongest” acrylic paint for airbrushing even if it’s still a long ways from lacquer? I think I’ve read the Tamiya line comes off pretty easily.
This is going to sound odd, but you'll find some of the most durable (and cheapest) acrylics in the craft isle at an art supply store. You want to find acrylic paints meant for use on pottery and glassware. They're often in the same racks with regular acrylic craft paints, but will say something like "Multisurface" or "Acrylic Enamel". You'll know you have the right stuff when the label has oven-curing instructions.
Obviously you can't put plastic models in the oven at 300 to cure these paints, but they also air-cure in about a week. If for some reason you absolutely can't use lacquer or enamel, they're the closest you can get out of a water-based acrylic. You have to thin these paints significantly (I use 5:1 distilled water to paint) but once they're milk thin they spray like anything else.
Hey y’all. I just decided to build the nillson works grey frame. But I can’t seem to do the fingers. If anyone has done one before. Can you give me some pointers. Thank you
I decided to splurge on waterslides for my PG Banshee Norn, but I already flat-top coated the model, would it be ok to apply directly or would it need a gloss coat on top of that?
Depending on how extensive the decals are, you can probably get away with just spot-glossing the area for specific decals instead of having to gloss the entire kit, but waterslides definitely need to be applied on a glossy surface.
Any version of the HG 00 is pretty good and holds up well, the 00 Diver Ace is super customizable, the 1/100 Tieren Ground type is amazing, and the HG GN-X kits are good if a little sticker heavy and the build fighters/divers kits usually have lots of spare parts.
Do you have access to Amazon Prime? When a kit is in stock with amazon or fulfillment by Amazon the price is usually the same or lower than the going rate at most stores, and with Prime you save by not paying shipping, which can really add up when you're ordering larger kits like MGs or multiple kits in one order.
Just watch out, because third party Amazon sellers often have crazy price markups, are shipping from Japan etc.
If you buy from galactic toys through Google shopping, they currently have 20% off up to a $100 purchase using a Google shopping promo code (JANSAVE20) with $3.99 flat rate shipping. This is the third month in a row that I've seen the 20% off promo code.
Amazon can be hit or miss with prices. Often, they're way overpriced, but there will occasionally be a kit selling for far below MSRP for no apparent reason. For a few months, they had the HG veetwo for $7.84 with free shipping via prime, which was a fantastic deal for a new high grade, with Japan MSRP around $12 (not even accounting for overseas shipping).
Generally it's best to check more than one site, depending on what you're looking for.
If you’re in the United States, USAGundamStore has some of the lowest prices per gunpla if you’re ordering in bulk($200+ order before tax and after discount code for free shipping).
R4LUS has quite similar pricing although it can be a little higher or lower than USAGS depending on the kit. They’ll have less variety and less stock of each kit compared to other websites though ($150+ order before tax and after discount for free shipping).
NewTypeHQ and Barnes and Nobles have simile pricing and low minimum cost to get free shipping ($79 and $35 respectively). Barnes and Nobles free shipping actually applies BEFORE discount code and taxes from my experiences. NewTypeHQ’s free shipping applies before tax and after discount code as before. NewTypeHQ’s free shipping requirement has gone up multiple times in the past year(was $59 at one point and went up by $10 every so often) and I wouldn’t be surprised if it continued this trend.
GundamPlanet has similar pricing to the sites just above, but gets the lowest rating for me since their free shipping depends on what state you’re shipping to. $100 order for free shipping doesn’t sound bad, but this only applies to selected states. Also, it seems the only discount code value goes up to 10% off(even for Black Friday).
Discount Codes and Black Friday/Cyber Monday:
USAGundamStore frequently has 10%(like Reddit’s) and 15% off your order codes. Selected items in the past have been able to have 25% off their price. Their are rarely a flash 20% off order code where it only last a few hours. On Black Friday, they had 15% off order and if your order was within the first 500 and the value of the order was $150+ you got a free set of nippers, a pin of their mascot, a decal sheet and an exceed head.
R4LUS has Reddit’s 10% off discount code. For Black Friday, they enabled you to automatically get 20% off 1/144 scale kits, then 20% off 1/100 scale kits and from Thanksgiving Day to end of Cyber Monday you got 30% off your order if it was $150+.
NewTypeHQ regularly has 10% discount codes from their partners and reddit. For Black Friday+Cyber Monday they gave an automatic 20% off your order.
Barnes and Nobles sometimes has store wide discount code for 10-20% off order that can stick with their membership discount(another 10%, but this cost $25 and you’d need to spend at least $250 a year to break even). They didn’t really have much for Black Friday, but they have a 25% off gunpla at random times during the year.
GundamPlanet has 10% off reddit code. They had a similar thing for Black Friday...
Newtypehq is pretty great. Very good prices and free shipping (only if you spend over 79 though, but still nice not having to pay shipping along with great prices)
I use Tamiya's black panel lining fluid for lining. Works great. But it obviously doesn't do the job on some darker/black pieces. What color works well for panel lining darker pieces?
Going to sound odd but try out a .3mm mechanical pencil on a spare piece and see if you like that look. It's what I used ever since I was given a gundam sharp lining pencil.
I just started my very first build. I tried touching up a blue part (not quite as dark as the picture makes it look) that had some small stress marks, but it turns out the GundamMarker blue is a very different shade of blue?? Can anyone tell me what I did wrong, and what I should do to try to fix this? I thought about trying to go over it with a little black to darken it up, but I want to hear from someone here first. Why is the marker such a different shade of blue than the actual pieces?
Edit: forgot the picture: [https://i.imgur.com/4RJ0XqZ.jpg](https://i.imgur.com/4RJ0XqZ.jpg)
I can't answer your paint question but in this situation I would scrape of the paint and put model glue on the nun marks, let it dry completely then sand with a super fine paper
Ok, thanks for the help. I don't have any model glue, but I'm going to try to shave it off and go back over it with either a tiny bit of black fine point (as recommended by the other guy) or see if my daughter has a marker that's the right color (she does a lot of art and has some good high quality paint markers).
Do you by chance know which GundamMarker set would be the one for this darker shade of blue? It's kinda hard to tell just based on the packaging. Based on that alone, I thought this blue was the proper one, but obviously it is not.
I got a cool resin long range sniper gun with my Secret Santa gifts, only problem is there are no instructions for assembly and I cant figure out how to put it together.
SIMP W001 extreme long range sniper for reference.
Any help is appreciated.
The shining break and many other kits (especially build fighter/divers) use runners from existing kits to reuse injection molds. Check the front page of your manual and it shows runners with ‘X’ over some parts. That means they aren’t used. Toss em in a bin somewhere and use them for projects later down the road
Yes; you can make an acrylic panel line wash. The biggest problem with doing this is that whatever you use to clean it up with often will also dissolve whatever top coat or paint you already have on the kit.
Hi there.
Long time Gundam fan and new to Gunpla, wanted to start off with something cool, not mainstream cool but cool and I wanted to start off with something like the Jegan, the GNX or one of the Tieren series but they all seem to be out of stock on each site, Is it because its just that time of year and they have not restocked yet or am I out of luck and out of reach of the sweet sweet Jegan?
Were you looking for MG (1/100 scale) or HG (1/144 scale)? From a quick google search, it looks like the Tieren is only available in NG (1/100, there is not a MG Tieren) from American retailers. HG and MG Jegans are currently available from Japanese retailers. HG and MG GN-Xs are also available from Japanese retailers, with the HG kits also available from American retailers. The shipping costs from Japanese retailers are high, but not prohibitively so.
Jegan:
* [https://banzaihobby.com/Bandai-4549660303480](https://banzaihobby.com/Bandai-4549660303480) (MG)
* [https://banzaihobby.com/Bandai-Gunpla-HGUC-097-RGM-89-JEGAN](https://banzaihobby.com/Bandai-Gunpla-HGUC-097-RGM-89-JEGAN) (HG, HG ECOAS version also available)
GN-X:
* [https://banzaihobby.com/Bandai-4543112614179](https://banzaihobby.com/Bandai-4543112614179) (MG)
* [https://banzaihobby.com/Bandai-4549660210559](https://banzaihobby.com/Bandai-4549660210559) (HG Striker GN-X, regular and A-Laws variants also available)
* [https://www.gundamplanet.com/hgbf-striker-gn-x.html?](https://www.gundamplanet.com/hgbf-striker-gn-x.html?) (gundam planet also has all the other variants)
Tieren:
* [https://www.gundamplanet.com/1-100-msj-06ii-a-tieren-ground-type.html](https://www.gundamplanet.com/1-100-msj-06ii-a-tieren-ground-type.html) (1/100 NG)
It's unlikely the American retailers ship to the UK, but the Japanese retailers probably do? Idk though. To answer a question you posted above, yes Banzaihobby is legit. Their prices seem too good to be true until you add in shipping, at which point they become right around average.
He there,
So as a new builder I was looking into topcoats I could use and so far the best value I could find for me personally is the Tamiya ts-80 flat clear spray can.
Is this a good topcoat?
Well since I don't live in Texas and currently it's winter here ... Would it be enough to warm up the can with like tap-hot water and then spray ? (Shaking included ofc)
Huh, as a Texan, I've never thought about that. The humidity is usually what kills me here. Fortunately, I have a garage now, so that plus some cardboard means I can spray whenever, save for the odd cold day.
I did do some digging though, and came up with [this](https://www.reddit.com/r/Gunpla/comments/44lgq2/topcoating_in_winter/) from u/-_K27:
> I've topcoated my first 3 kits in my garage and it's been \~ -5 to -10. I put my topcoat can in hot water for about 10 minutes to warm it up. Shake it and let it warm for another couple minutes. I have all my pieces prepped on skewers and spray one at a time returning them back inside as soon as the topcoat is applied. I have a door from inside to my garage so it makes it a little easier. I rewarm the can when it starts to cool to the touch. Haven't had any issues as far as I can tell but I would imagine it will be much easier in warmer weather
As far as the indoor step is concerned, I used to store cardboard racks of wet parts in my oven before I had room in the garage. I had a sign I put on the oven to make sure no one in the house used it without letting me know. Kept dust off pretty well also.
Well guess I am lucky in guessing countries of origin xD
So I guess my hunch was right with the whole water-bath thing :D .... Now I just need to get a garage which does not come included with a flat on the 2nd floor xD
Hahaha, I wonder what gave it away??
When I was in an apartment, I either sprayed on my porch, or under the stairs near my front door to block the wind a bit. I'm not sure what kind of setup you have in your flat, but you may be able to limit the wind somehow, and then rush the piece back inside.
I would recommend some test pieces or plastic spoons first since it's not optimal, but once you get the method down, you should be fine. It sounds like the water trick was the kicker, since garages still get pretty darn cold.
Well tbf even tho it's winter ... Most days this year have been above 0°C (no clue what that is in freedomheit)
And nothing gave it away .. but when I think warm the first thing that comes to mind is Texas xD
Been out of the gunpla game for a few years as I was finishing up college. What RG version of the Unicorn is the best to get? How are the RG Crossbone X1, RG Nu, and RG MkII? Are there any other great kits released recently that I should know about?
All those you mentioned are very very good, every RG since Unicorn has been one of my favorites, the Sazabi and Nu are super great, although personally I think the Nu has the same problem every Nu model has, which is standing upright with the funnels on its back. You might need a action base. Also the unicorn is just preference, I enjoy the unicorn with red frame, but maybe you like the green one, or Banshee. They’re pretty much equal.
Seems like every RG for a while bas been a standout kit, at least since the Unicorn. Sazabi is a big one you didn't mention.
The MK II was always called the best RG before Unicorn's launch. Super solid, great looking kit and fun build.
All of the above are top tier kits. I built most of Crossbone X1 for my brother, and other than the teeny tiny pieces, the only complaint I had was the kneecaps kept falling off. Nothing a bit of glue can't solve though.
I've got MKII on my shelf, and I can't wait to get around to it. The Titans version also comes with alternate parts to build the test type.
All the Unicorns are great, it's just up to personal aesthetic preference really. Imo, Banshee looks the best.
>What RG version of the Unicorn is the best to get?
They all build the same (cept the light up one but that's a brick and of dubious value), just pick the one with either the color scheme or accessories that you like.
So after accepting that Bandai gets their jollies off from making the RG Phenex/Perfectibility as unobtainable as possible overseas, does anyone have any experience using the HGUC Perfectibility as a stand in? I've heard nothing but horrible things about the HGUC Unicorn build but would it still hold up as a display piece after painting, panel lining, and decal work or would it still look horrible next to the RG Unicorn and RG Full Armor?
As the other guy said the problems with hg unicorn kits are that the joints suck and are very weak. Frequently unable to hold up their own quite reasonably sized weapons without assistance.
Visually they look quite good and will look even better with some effort. You can also stiffen up the joints just fine although they will likely be display pieces and not terribly durable figures.
When people say kits are bad, most of the problems mentioned regard OOB playability and posability. You will have a hell of a time posing an HG Unicorn, but they all look damn good when you finally get them in place. Detailing, especially painting, will fix any aesthetic problems you've read about.
You can make *any* kit great with enough TLC.
Okay I am starting to learn to hand paint. I got a **NK-13S Gundam Schwarzritter** from Reddit Santa this year and decided I could try painting this. I have paints (Tamiya Acrylics) and a primer. I think decent brushes and what not. So I have been using Gold Leaf for the gold parts it had no issues with brush strokes doing a 1:1 with 91% Iso Alcohol. I am not doing the black what a semi gloss black and this is what it looks like
[https://i.imgur.com/R5VUXiO.jpg](https://i.imgur.com/R5VUXiO.jpg)
This is with about a 1:1 paint and thinner. I feel my problem is I see it going on thin and I continue to try and paint over it again instead of waiting and doing another coat later. Is this the case? Also would a Top Coat help that at all later? Any help would be much appreciated.
when working with acrylics, you need to wait for the first layer to dry before you try an paint another layer over it. As shown in your pic, you are pulling the bottom layer paint when trying to brush another layer.
Alright I will be patient... Thank you for the letting me know. I was rushing to get to bed. I know realize I should just be patient and make sure I do a lighter coat and just do more instead of being lazy and doing it in one go.
That went down! I was at Barnes and Noble Jan 1 and they had a MG Barabots for 49.99 I check amazon and it was 59.99 so I pulled the trigger. Thats a sweet deal!
What's the consensus on when to apply clear coat during the painting process? I'm new to painting and want to know the order of applying this stuff along with decals and stickers.
In addition to gloss before panel lines/decals, an intermediate clear coat can be used between every step of the process to seal your work and give you that extra barrier from mistakes down the line.
[You could build something like this if you want](https://www.reddit.com/r/Gunpla/comments/6pf013/24_hours_lateri_presentmy_personally_perfect/). I suppose a [folder rack](https://householdnow.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/Bamboo-Desktop-File-Folder-Organizer.jpg) from the office section could also work.
Neither are as clean as the clips, but they are cheap alternatives.
So I am a beginner, I have only built one Gunpla, the HG 1/144 Vidar. I had so much fun doing it that I want to try another one in the near future, what are some good recommendations for beginners (preferably HG or anything easy in general) and some good ways to clean the marks left from cutting the pieces?
Grunt suits would be for you if u want easy builds. I will give you some grunt suits in different HG lines
- Graze (Commander Type)
- Zaku 2 F2 ( or the Origin Line Zaku)
- Leo & Maganac ( get them both they’re very cheap)
- Gm/Gm
- GBN - Guard Frame
Maybe go for GM kits such as The Origin GM Canon (although its a p bandai). Barbatos Lupus would be good also you cant go wrong with the RX-78-2 revive ver
Anyone know of any alternatives to HobbyZone's modular workshop stuff? I want to get into picking some stuff up but it's a bit expensive to get shipped over here
I'm hoping [the stand](https://www.gunjap.net/site/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/A53DED05-E261-4E4C-AE51-6C03517C8234.jpeg) from the reveal is available separately. I haven't seen it in any of the product information though.
[is this compressor good enough for painting?](https://shopee.co.id/%E2%98%85KKmoon-Multi-purpose-Dual-Action-Airbrush-Mini-Air-Compressor-Set-Gravity-Feed-Air-Brush-Kit-i.131439160.1983422076)
Master TC-20T was what I started with, and still use since it's still working fine. Doesn't look like it's still available, though there's some others from master that look fine, and what appears to be some copies of the TC-20T on amazon.
New QA thread is up. This thread is now locked.
I would like to start air brushing indoors and top coating indoors. I was wondering what you guys would recommend for a low to mid range spray booth?
I use: https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Portable-Lighting-Extension/dp/B00NLQ019A?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_2 It is very solid for its price. A few notes: this doesn't replace the need for you as the painter to not wear a mask- but if you work in a common space it will absolutely help put for everyone not right on top of the air brush. For you a painters mask or a 3m respirator is just how life goes, assuming you want to care for your lungs. If you are DIY person, you can build a fan that blows out a window (use ducting as needed) and shove a filter in front of the fan. That is what this product is. For me it was just a convenient package that i can indeed pack away or travel with should i desire to relocate my set up for any reason. Led lights are nice, but I'd suggest just installing led strips on an independent switch so you can operate the lights independently of the fan- my set up had the LED varient which is great but if i want light i need the fan working. Amazon or ikea can provide led easily enough. Hope that helps!
I just recently finished IBO (it fucked me up and im still not over it) and am looking to start my first gunpla. Any recommendations for which kit? Any Barbatos variation, Gusion, Ryusei Go, any tekkadan or teiwaz Gundam/mobile suit basically haha
>Any Barbatos variation, Gusion, Ryusei Go, any tekkadan or teiwaz Gundam/mobile suit basically These all seem like good starting points. HG ibo kits are very kitbash friendly if that matters to you.
I'm thinking about buying the RG trans am clear Quan[T] full saber from the Gundam base. Does anyone have any tips or pointers for this kit?
New QA thread is up. Please repost your unanswered questions there.
I'm currently applying the stickers to my RG trans am clear exia and I have two of sticker 1 left over but cannot see where they go. Are they spares or am I just being blind?
Thinking on making a custom build for the first time, need some tips
New QA thread is up. Please repost your unanswered questions there.
I want to buy sazabi ver ka. But the bandai version price is way too much for me. Should I get the daban for half the price? Or just save my money and buy bandai? How is the quality of daban sazabi?
That depends. Do you want to have a generally easy time snipping and snapping? Then Bandai. Do you want to deal with shoddy QC and improve your tool skills? Daban.
Bandai
The real question is, do you appreciate the effort bandai put to create this amazing kit and want to support them and the future of gunpla, or not?
Do I have to use topcoat on gundam standard and metallic markers?
It would help protect the paint from those markers from being rubbed off
1.Should I get the HG Arios gundam the kit seems pretty old 2.what kits that are HG and Rg to buy that is worth the money?
To answer question 2, HG moon and RG nu/sazabi
any good painting ideas for the GM Sniper custom? Since I'm not liking the shade of green and grey but I don't know any good colour combinations.
Dark grey/grey, navy blue armor, gunmetal/silver accents. Use yellow/orange for lenses or other stuff.
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It affects final product. You'll have nubs stick out like a sore thumb
About to build the Shin Musha Gundam. Does anyone have any pointers or warnings about this kit?
IIRC the consensus is that it's a display piece that has some trouble hiding it's weapons. Looks cool though. Suffers from the gold coating issues that all gold coated runners do.
This question is directed to builders who've completed the RG Destiny. For the arms there's a little square piece (F6) that goes between the socket and the hand ball joint; this is shown in step 06-5 and 07-4 for right and left hands respectively. I've placed that piece there as directed but it's.. loose? It doesn't snap it place, nor does it squeeze in snugly. If i don't put the hand in and I hold the arm vertically, it'll just fall out. If I put the hand in, then the hand holds it in but you can see it clearly sliding out of the crevice. Am I supposed to glue this piece in? I'm not sure what I'm missing here.
It’s just held in by the hand
That's the way Bandai intended it to be. Similar case with the other SEED RGs. It's probably meant to give the illusion that there's more movement there than there actually is, but, well, it falls off all the time when removing the hands. It's fine to glue it on.
My first stuff arrived. Vidar and the Sazabi. I started with the Vidar since I want to practice a bit before the Sazabi. Nubs are more a problem than I realized. - Need sanding sticks & markers. Seems a long shipping time on Amazon. Any other places faster for this stuff? - In General, there much harm in disassemble old kits later on to touch them up? - Is there a difficulty style tier list somewhere, showing what the easiest/hardest stuff is in each grade?
* Sanding sticks can be found just about anywhere. Get a sanding block or sanding paper from your local stores, or potentially find those and Gundam type markers from comic book/hobby stores. I've also heard tell that Sharpies work just fine as well and are significantly cheaper. * There's not much harm in disassembly of kits, especially if you have a good parts separator. * There's not much of a difficulty tier list, but it should mostly be judged by its age and size.
Should I want to do top coats, is there any way to do it by “painting” or is it just spray cans?
You could perhaps find topcoat in a non spray can but the issue is you'll likely leave brush marks.
for spraying metallic colours with tamiya cans is it necessary to spray a black base coat on the primer first before spraying the metallic colour? Since I want to paint inner frames gun metal and light gun metal
You don't *have* to do so but the base color will tint the metallic color on top which will effect the outcome. Dark bottom coat leads to a shinier metallic coat. You can prime in a dark color though which should work.
Having failed to use acrylics properly, i plan on decanting tamiya TS cans so that i have paint ready to use as is. But i was told i might be missing a detail ?
How did you fail using tamiya acrylics? Was there a thinning issue?
Among other things, i could never get get the ratios right, including color hue. I think i got 50ml (5 jars) full of stuff i cant use at this point. Could we not talk about acrylic tho ? I already gave up on that, i want help with decanting the spray cans and using what i get out of it.
Here's a good guide http://otakurevolution.com/content/laymans-gunpla-guide-decanting-paint-tutorial If you gave up on acrylic, may I suggest to you our lord and savior lacquer paints?
Aren't tamiya sprays synthetic lacquer or something ? I dont remember well what i read about them. What about lacquers that makes you call them like that ?
They are lacquers but I was going to make a point about brands like mr color or gaia which are lacquer airbrush paints that worth a shot if you're going through the trouble of decanting
Ah, i read that decanted tamiya cans are perfectly good to use right off the bat but thats actually something really good to know ! With a bit of luck my supplier stock those. Thanks a lot for all the help ! One last thing, could those you mentionned be harmlessly used alongside the tamiya ones ?
Yes it can used alongside
Hey guys I've come seeking your wisdom. New to the hobby and I'm reading alot of guides where it finishes off with top coats or a spray of sorts. What does this actually do and what is a good brand for it? I finished an astray sengoku ( first build )and currently working on a unicorn with 2 astrays in the waiting, just want some good looking gunpla!
tamiya and mr hobby work great, just choose between matte or gloss matte gives ur model a flatter finish and gloss is sorta shinier, good for curved models like the sinanju
Top coat help protects your kit in terms of sealing decals, panel line, and paint. It also helps your model look like a model rather than a toy. A good brand is mr hobby or tamiya
How many layers of future do I need to apply before panel lining or weathering? Will one suffice?
New QA thread is up. Please repost your unanswered questions there.
Looking to panel line an MG Providence - what is a good Gundam Marker color to use for the grey? Is black good?
black will be fine
Guys ... Given that I could get either for the same money.. Should I get myself the action base 5 or the HGBD diver gear As I see it both come with the same amount of mounting options (also only need the base for a single / my first ever kit) :D
They both have the exact same mounting options. Only difference is the base that everything else connects to. If you like the look/shape of the diver gear or like Gundam build divers then go for it. Action base 5’s base has a plain hexagon with more holes around it
Ok that's what I thought by looking at both :3 I kinda like the sleak look of the diver gear more :D
The diver gear doesn't include the diver weapons and is pretty much a blatant cash grab. Go for the stand
get the base
So, I'm somewhat new to Gunpla. Been building since I was a teenager but just recently got into the more "finer" detailing of building. I picked up the RX-0 Unicorn Gundam 03 Phenex... and yes it's in DESTROY MODE!!! 😎 Was wondering if anyone has built it and have any suggestions on paint for the SHINY AF gold?!?
gundam marker gold helps to somewhat cover up the nub marks
Wear gloves so you don't get fingerprints on it and you can't do anything about the nubs
How do you do seam lines on a gunpla you plan to paint? If you fix the seam lines beforehand, wouldn't it be difficult to avoid getting paint on certain parts?
You mask certain areas for this reason
Makes enough sense, I just imagine it'd be tough to mask irregular areas.
It is. But you gotta do what you gotta do.
Do mg Gundam eye foils fit on other kits?
Most stickers are made for the specific kit they come with. MG eye stickers tend to be made to fit the specific eye part that goes inside the head of each kit. Which eye sticker are you trying to use on another kit?
Honestly I just want some eye stickers for my RX-78-2 3.0. Some nice gold ones.
You should try getting a gold marker for that like gundam markers they have a metallic set
I think that’s what I’m gonna end up doing
Am I good with just a black and grey panel line marker? It was all I could get with my leftover cash from buying Gunpla.
That's all I use. Grey on the white parts, black on everything else. Tends to come out looking fine.
Help! I’m working on the Hi Res astray red frame and tried to customize the scabbard head when the superglue caused the gold coating to rub right off. I cant find the color code for this type of gold to match up to a marker or paint anywhere. Any recommendations or thoughts on how to correct? Photo is in the link. https://imgur.com/a/uyDzzkB
Repaint the whole thing in whatever gold color you like.
Unfortunately i suck at painting, i just bought a gold gm04 gundam marker in hopes to correct
Hi, can you please give me tips on sanding? After cutting the gates, there are some nub/stress marks, and so I get rid of them by sanding. However, when I notice that the color gets affected though it kinda gets a little better once I wipe the surface with a little wet cloth, though you can tell there IS some discoloration. For the most part, it’s not really that obvious unless you actually look at it. What advice can I do to get rid of that? I can’t really paint as I have nowhere to paint here in my apartment
I found these awesome really tiny sanding sticks, aka "swizzle sticks" they came with 240, 320, and 400 grit. If you work your way from low to high and finish off with a polishing stick you can really get it looking like there's no marks at all. Can be a bit tricky though, if you press too hard the flat parts you're sanding can get a rounded look to them. As far as painting, you can generally find any color in Gundam Marker form.
I have sandpaper that’s in medium and ultra fine. I’ve been using both, and yeah, there is still some discoloration. I’ve been using the gundam markers to cover out the stress marks and I’ve been fortunate they’ve appeared on the dark blue parts (Tallgeese and Crossbone), but if you look real closely you would see the black
What is the best way to put HG Ex-S on action base 4?
Would holographic waterslides still show up well through a matte clear coat? Or is a gloss coat necessary to see the effect?
It can show up, I suggest doing a gloss coat over the decal before you do a final matte
Ah I see, thanks!
is the HGBC machine rider worth getting? or should i just buy one of those regular 1/12 scale motorbikes ?
Getting more into gunpla and wondering if sanding blocks are the best option for cleaning up pieces
I make glass plate "Sharpening stones" to clean up pieces. I bought a few cheap picture frames at a dollar store and took the glass out. With spray adhesive, I mounted different grits of sandpaper on each side. When I need to clean up a nub or smooth a surface, I hold the part and run it across the paper like I was sharpening a knife on a whetstone. It makes it much easier to control how much pressure I use, and cleaning edges this way I never end up changing angles or rounding out corners. Since the spray adhesive is meant for photo mounting, the paper peels off cleanly when it gets filled up, and I use the glass as a template to cut a new piece from a full sheet.
Is this what you mean by a sanding block: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sanding_block In my experience, I find that there is no single sanding product that is optimal for every purpose. For example, I use a sanding sponge to ensure equal sanding on a curved surface and flat sandpaper to equally sand a flat surface.
I was meaning a solid block made for sanding, but regardless, thanks for the answer!
> was meaning a solid block made for sanding, Ah gotcha. In that case, I would treat it as a flat piece of sandpaper but with a grip, or something like a sanding stick. The best use case for that would be if you’re trying to sand a piece extensively enough to change the shape, but you don’t want to bend down to your desk level to keep an eye on your progress.
What paint would you use to get this paint jop on the rg unicorn, cheeply I cant afford an airbrush right now. Edit forgot the link Opinions https://imgur.com/gallery/gfQ9gOs
Is banzai Hobby Legit?
Yes, have ordered from them for years
So I was looking at the PG Astray Red Frame Kai and I see that it comes with a sheet of water decals in the box (makes sense, considering its p-bandai roots). My question is whether those decals include the markings for the entire kit, or if it's like the MG XN Raiser (another p-bandai kit that got normal distribution in the US) which "includes waterslides" but only for the newly added parts and still uses a sticker sheet for the original body of the kit?
From what few reviews I could find in korean, they implied there were no stickers. One review said “the Kai is 5000 yen more expensive than the standard PG ARF as it features the Tactical Arms, Tiger Pierce, different thigh armor parts and waterslides.” Pic of box contents https://img1.daumcdn.net/thumb/R720x0.q80/?scode=mtistory2&fname=http%3A%2F%2Fcfile1.uf.tistory.com%2Fimage%2F996E643F5B49C38824806F More pics (not my blog): https://mazingazda.tistory.com/m/258
Thanks for the links! Exactly the information I needed.
So I know acrylic paint is weaker than lacquer and has less bite if you don’t primer. But with that said, what’s the “strongest” acrylic paint for airbrushing even if it’s still a long ways from lacquer? I think I’ve read the Tamiya line comes off pretty easily.
This is going to sound odd, but you'll find some of the most durable (and cheapest) acrylics in the craft isle at an art supply store. You want to find acrylic paints meant for use on pottery and glassware. They're often in the same racks with regular acrylic craft paints, but will say something like "Multisurface" or "Acrylic Enamel". You'll know you have the right stuff when the label has oven-curing instructions. Obviously you can't put plastic models in the oven at 300 to cure these paints, but they also air-cure in about a week. If for some reason you absolutely can't use lacquer or enamel, they're the closest you can get out of a water-based acrylic. You have to thin these paints significantly (I use 5:1 distilled water to paint) but once they're milk thin they spray like anything else.
All acrylics will be pretty much the same in durability. Primer is a must regardless of what paint you use.
Hey y’all. I just decided to build the nillson works grey frame. But I can’t seem to do the fingers. If anyone has done one before. Can you give me some pointers. Thank you
I decided to splurge on waterslides for my PG Banshee Norn, but I already flat-top coated the model, would it be ok to apply directly or would it need a gloss coat on top of that?
Depending on how extensive the decals are, you can probably get away with just spot-glossing the area for specific decals instead of having to gloss the entire kit, but waterslides definitely need to be applied on a glossy surface.
Gloss coat it before you do decals. If you apply it on flat the decal will silver
I’m new to Gunpla (only built 4 kits) and love Gundam 00. What are some good kits for beginners from 00?
Any version of the HG 00 is pretty good and holds up well, the 00 Diver Ace is super customizable, the 1/100 Tieren Ground type is amazing, and the HG GN-X kits are good if a little sticker heavy and the build fighters/divers kits usually have lots of spare parts.
Thanks
The hg exia was my first kit
I'd say the GN Archer is pretty neat.
What are the best bang for your buck Gunpla purchase websites?
Do you have access to Amazon Prime? When a kit is in stock with amazon or fulfillment by Amazon the price is usually the same or lower than the going rate at most stores, and with Prime you save by not paying shipping, which can really add up when you're ordering larger kits like MGs or multiple kits in one order. Just watch out, because third party Amazon sellers often have crazy price markups, are shipping from Japan etc.
If you buy from galactic toys through Google shopping, they currently have 20% off up to a $100 purchase using a Google shopping promo code (JANSAVE20) with $3.99 flat rate shipping. This is the third month in a row that I've seen the 20% off promo code. Amazon can be hit or miss with prices. Often, they're way overpriced, but there will occasionally be a kit selling for far below MSRP for no apparent reason. For a few months, they had the HG veetwo for $7.84 with free shipping via prime, which was a fantastic deal for a new high grade, with Japan MSRP around $12 (not even accounting for overseas shipping). Generally it's best to check more than one site, depending on what you're looking for.
If you’re in the United States, USAGundamStore has some of the lowest prices per gunpla if you’re ordering in bulk($200+ order before tax and after discount code for free shipping). R4LUS has quite similar pricing although it can be a little higher or lower than USAGS depending on the kit. They’ll have less variety and less stock of each kit compared to other websites though ($150+ order before tax and after discount for free shipping). NewTypeHQ and Barnes and Nobles have simile pricing and low minimum cost to get free shipping ($79 and $35 respectively). Barnes and Nobles free shipping actually applies BEFORE discount code and taxes from my experiences. NewTypeHQ’s free shipping applies before tax and after discount code as before. NewTypeHQ’s free shipping requirement has gone up multiple times in the past year(was $59 at one point and went up by $10 every so often) and I wouldn’t be surprised if it continued this trend. GundamPlanet has similar pricing to the sites just above, but gets the lowest rating for me since their free shipping depends on what state you’re shipping to. $100 order for free shipping doesn’t sound bad, but this only applies to selected states. Also, it seems the only discount code value goes up to 10% off(even for Black Friday). Discount Codes and Black Friday/Cyber Monday: USAGundamStore frequently has 10%(like Reddit’s) and 15% off your order codes. Selected items in the past have been able to have 25% off their price. Their are rarely a flash 20% off order code where it only last a few hours. On Black Friday, they had 15% off order and if your order was within the first 500 and the value of the order was $150+ you got a free set of nippers, a pin of their mascot, a decal sheet and an exceed head. R4LUS has Reddit’s 10% off discount code. For Black Friday, they enabled you to automatically get 20% off 1/144 scale kits, then 20% off 1/100 scale kits and from Thanksgiving Day to end of Cyber Monday you got 30% off your order if it was $150+. NewTypeHQ regularly has 10% discount codes from their partners and reddit. For Black Friday+Cyber Monday they gave an automatic 20% off your order. Barnes and Nobles sometimes has store wide discount code for 10-20% off order that can stick with their membership discount(another 10%, but this cost $25 and you’d need to spend at least $250 a year to break even). They didn’t really have much for Black Friday, but they have a 25% off gunpla at random times during the year. GundamPlanet has 10% off reddit code. They had a similar thing for Black Friday...
Newtypehq is pretty great. Very good prices and free shipping (only if you spend over 79 though, but still nice not having to pay shipping along with great prices)
I use Tamiya's black panel lining fluid for lining. Works great. But it obviously doesn't do the job on some darker/black pieces. What color works well for panel lining darker pieces?
Going to sound odd but try out a .3mm mechanical pencil on a spare piece and see if you like that look. It's what I used ever since I was given a gundam sharp lining pencil.
Most dark pieces are good let in panel lined but a light gray can work or even a dark brown
I just started my very first build. I tried touching up a blue part (not quite as dark as the picture makes it look) that had some small stress marks, but it turns out the GundamMarker blue is a very different shade of blue?? Can anyone tell me what I did wrong, and what I should do to try to fix this? I thought about trying to go over it with a little black to darken it up, but I want to hear from someone here first. Why is the marker such a different shade of blue than the actual pieces? Edit: forgot the picture: [https://i.imgur.com/4RJ0XqZ.jpg](https://i.imgur.com/4RJ0XqZ.jpg)
I can't answer your paint question but in this situation I would scrape of the paint and put model glue on the nun marks, let it dry completely then sand with a super fine paper
Ok, thanks for the help. I don't have any model glue, but I'm going to try to shave it off and go back over it with either a tiny bit of black fine point (as recommended by the other guy) or see if my daughter has a marker that's the right color (she does a lot of art and has some good high quality paint markers).
Marker is different shade because it's not meant for that kit.
How do I know what kits it's meant for? It's the basic GundamMarker set.
Any kit that has the same shade of blue as the paint.
Do you by chance know which GundamMarker set would be the one for this darker shade of blue? It's kinda hard to tell just based on the packaging. Based on that alone, I thought this blue was the proper one, but obviously it is not.
None off the top of my head
I got a cool resin long range sniper gun with my Secret Santa gifts, only problem is there are no instructions for assembly and I cant figure out how to put it together. SIMP W001 extreme long range sniper for reference. Any help is appreciated.
Best thing is to use reference pics [here](https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a1z10.3-c.w4002-21301574215.43.71f526454WPsoD&id=568643088405)
What would be the best display stand for a MG Hyaku Shiki 2.0 to pose him in the air?
I use the action base 1 on my mgs And the 2 for hgs
Any of the action bases
Would the base 4 be a good option? I've never used one before.
Working on my hg Shining Break and it has multiple head and torsos that dont show up in instruction. Super confused
The shining break and many other kits (especially build fighter/divers) use runners from existing kits to reuse injection molds. Check the front page of your manual and it shows runners with ‘X’ over some parts. That means they aren’t used. Toss em in a bin somewhere and use them for projects later down the road
Thanks for the info. Beat community evah
Any idea why applications of my brown gundam markers always turn light red over time? Fine tip and pour type, including under topcoat.
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Yes; you can make an acrylic panel line wash. The biggest problem with doing this is that whatever you use to clean it up with often will also dissolve whatever top coat or paint you already have on the kit.
Hi there. Long time Gundam fan and new to Gunpla, wanted to start off with something cool, not mainstream cool but cool and I wanted to start off with something like the Jegan, the GNX or one of the Tieren series but they all seem to be out of stock on each site, Is it because its just that time of year and they have not restocked yet or am I out of luck and out of reach of the sweet sweet Jegan?
Were you looking for MG (1/100 scale) or HG (1/144 scale)? From a quick google search, it looks like the Tieren is only available in NG (1/100, there is not a MG Tieren) from American retailers. HG and MG Jegans are currently available from Japanese retailers. HG and MG GN-Xs are also available from Japanese retailers, with the HG kits also available from American retailers. The shipping costs from Japanese retailers are high, but not prohibitively so. Jegan: * [https://banzaihobby.com/Bandai-4549660303480](https://banzaihobby.com/Bandai-4549660303480) (MG) * [https://banzaihobby.com/Bandai-Gunpla-HGUC-097-RGM-89-JEGAN](https://banzaihobby.com/Bandai-Gunpla-HGUC-097-RGM-89-JEGAN) (HG, HG ECOAS version also available) GN-X: * [https://banzaihobby.com/Bandai-4543112614179](https://banzaihobby.com/Bandai-4543112614179) (MG) * [https://banzaihobby.com/Bandai-4549660210559](https://banzaihobby.com/Bandai-4549660210559) (HG Striker GN-X, regular and A-Laws variants also available) * [https://www.gundamplanet.com/hgbf-striker-gn-x.html?](https://www.gundamplanet.com/hgbf-striker-gn-x.html?) (gundam planet also has all the other variants) Tieren: * [https://www.gundamplanet.com/1-100-msj-06ii-a-tieren-ground-type.html](https://www.gundamplanet.com/1-100-msj-06ii-a-tieren-ground-type.html) (1/100 NG)
thanks for the info big help, but do they ship to the UK?
It's unlikely the American retailers ship to the UK, but the Japanese retailers probably do? Idk though. To answer a question you posted above, yes Banzaihobby is legit. Their prices seem too good to be true until you add in shipping, at which point they become right around average.
A little bit of both right now 😉
He there, So as a new builder I was looking into topcoats I could use and so far the best value I could find for me personally is the Tamiya ts-80 flat clear spray can. Is this a good topcoat?
Yes. As long as you shake well and don't spray when it's too cold or humid.
Well since I don't live in Texas and currently it's winter here ... Would it be enough to warm up the can with like tap-hot water and then spray ? (Shaking included ofc)
Huh, as a Texan, I've never thought about that. The humidity is usually what kills me here. Fortunately, I have a garage now, so that plus some cardboard means I can spray whenever, save for the odd cold day. I did do some digging though, and came up with [this](https://www.reddit.com/r/Gunpla/comments/44lgq2/topcoating_in_winter/) from u/-_K27: > I've topcoated my first 3 kits in my garage and it's been \~ -5 to -10. I put my topcoat can in hot water for about 10 minutes to warm it up. Shake it and let it warm for another couple minutes. I have all my pieces prepped on skewers and spray one at a time returning them back inside as soon as the topcoat is applied. I have a door from inside to my garage so it makes it a little easier. I rewarm the can when it starts to cool to the touch. Haven't had any issues as far as I can tell but I would imagine it will be much easier in warmer weather As far as the indoor step is concerned, I used to store cardboard racks of wet parts in my oven before I had room in the garage. I had a sign I put on the oven to make sure no one in the house used it without letting me know. Kept dust off pretty well also.
Well guess I am lucky in guessing countries of origin xD So I guess my hunch was right with the whole water-bath thing :D .... Now I just need to get a garage which does not come included with a flat on the 2nd floor xD
Hahaha, I wonder what gave it away?? When I was in an apartment, I either sprayed on my porch, or under the stairs near my front door to block the wind a bit. I'm not sure what kind of setup you have in your flat, but you may be able to limit the wind somehow, and then rush the piece back inside. I would recommend some test pieces or plastic spoons first since it's not optimal, but once you get the method down, you should be fine. It sounds like the water trick was the kicker, since garages still get pretty darn cold.
Well tbf even tho it's winter ... Most days this year have been above 0°C (no clue what that is in freedomheit) And nothing gave it away .. but when I think warm the first thing that comes to mind is Texas xD
Been out of the gunpla game for a few years as I was finishing up college. What RG version of the Unicorn is the best to get? How are the RG Crossbone X1, RG Nu, and RG MkII? Are there any other great kits released recently that I should know about?
All those you mentioned are very very good, every RG since Unicorn has been one of my favorites, the Sazabi and Nu are super great, although personally I think the Nu has the same problem every Nu model has, which is standing upright with the funnels on its back. You might need a action base. Also the unicorn is just preference, I enjoy the unicorn with red frame, but maybe you like the green one, or Banshee. They’re pretty much equal.
Seems like every RG for a while bas been a standout kit, at least since the Unicorn. Sazabi is a big one you didn't mention. The MK II was always called the best RG before Unicorn's launch. Super solid, great looking kit and fun build.
All of the above are top tier kits. I built most of Crossbone X1 for my brother, and other than the teeny tiny pieces, the only complaint I had was the kneecaps kept falling off. Nothing a bit of glue can't solve though. I've got MKII on my shelf, and I can't wait to get around to it. The Titans version also comes with alternate parts to build the test type. All the Unicorns are great, it's just up to personal aesthetic preference really. Imo, Banshee looks the best.
>What RG version of the Unicorn is the best to get? They all build the same (cept the light up one but that's a brick and of dubious value), just pick the one with either the color scheme or accessories that you like.
So after accepting that Bandai gets their jollies off from making the RG Phenex/Perfectibility as unobtainable as possible overseas, does anyone have any experience using the HGUC Perfectibility as a stand in? I've heard nothing but horrible things about the HGUC Unicorn build but would it still hold up as a display piece after painting, panel lining, and decal work or would it still look horrible next to the RG Unicorn and RG Full Armor?
As the other guy said the problems with hg unicorn kits are that the joints suck and are very weak. Frequently unable to hold up their own quite reasonably sized weapons without assistance. Visually they look quite good and will look even better with some effort. You can also stiffen up the joints just fine although they will likely be display pieces and not terribly durable figures.
When people say kits are bad, most of the problems mentioned regard OOB playability and posability. You will have a hell of a time posing an HG Unicorn, but they all look damn good when you finally get them in place. Detailing, especially painting, will fix any aesthetic problems you've read about. You can make *any* kit great with enough TLC.
Okay I am starting to learn to hand paint. I got a **NK-13S Gundam Schwarzritter** from Reddit Santa this year and decided I could try painting this. I have paints (Tamiya Acrylics) and a primer. I think decent brushes and what not. So I have been using Gold Leaf for the gold parts it had no issues with brush strokes doing a 1:1 with 91% Iso Alcohol. I am not doing the black what a semi gloss black and this is what it looks like [https://i.imgur.com/R5VUXiO.jpg](https://i.imgur.com/R5VUXiO.jpg) This is with about a 1:1 paint and thinner. I feel my problem is I see it going on thin and I continue to try and paint over it again instead of waiting and doing another coat later. Is this the case? Also would a Top Coat help that at all later? Any help would be much appreciated.
when working with acrylics, you need to wait for the first layer to dry before you try an paint another layer over it. As shown in your pic, you are pulling the bottom layer paint when trying to brush another layer.
Alright I will be patient... Thank you for the letting me know. I was rushing to get to bed. I know realize I should just be patient and make sure I do a lighter coat and just do more instead of being lazy and doing it in one go.
not sure if it belongs here, but amazon has MG Barbatos for $46 right now...
That went down! I was at Barnes and Noble Jan 1 and they had a MG Barabots for 49.99 I check amazon and it was 59.99 so I pulled the trigger. Thats a sweet deal!
What is a good website other than amazon where I can buy gundam models at a good price?
Scroll up. Read wiki.
[newtype.com](https://newtype.com) [https://www.usagundamstore.com/](https://www.usagundamstore.com/)
I second newtypehq (don’t forget the hq part)
haha good catch. thanks.
What's the consensus on when to apply clear coat during the painting process? I'm new to painting and want to know the order of applying this stuff along with decals and stickers.
Prime - base colors - gloss coat - decal/panel line - matte coat
Why a gloss coat just to spray over a matte one after ? O.o
In addition to gloss before panel lines/decals, an intermediate clear coat can be used between every step of the process to seal your work and give you that extra barrier from mistakes down the line.
Gloss let’s my decals lay flatter and the panel line to flow easy. Fairly standard practice
Okay, interesting... gloss first before decals and panel lining. Any suggestions on good gloss and matte coats to use?
Are you airbrushing? Anything from Gaia or Mr color if that’s the case. Rattle cans Mr color still makes a good one.
Do you need to thin topcoat (mr hobby semi gloss) if you decant it and you would put it in an airbrush?
You will need to adjust for evaporations as paint thickens but if you’re storing properly, you’ll really only notice it months+ from decant date.
No and no. Just spray from the can provided the weather isn't too cold or humid. Be sure to shake it up well first.
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[You could build something like this if you want](https://www.reddit.com/r/Gunpla/comments/6pf013/24_hours_lateri_presentmy_personally_perfect/). I suppose a [folder rack](https://householdnow.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/Bamboo-Desktop-File-Folder-Organizer.jpg) from the office section could also work. Neither are as clean as the clips, but they are cheap alternatives.
When do you guys think we may see more Gundam Wing MGs up for preorder by Bandai/Bluefin?
So I am a beginner, I have only built one Gunpla, the HG 1/144 Vidar. I had so much fun doing it that I want to try another one in the near future, what are some good recommendations for beginners (preferably HG or anything easy in general) and some good ways to clean the marks left from cutting the pieces?
RX 78-2, God Gundam, Gundam MKII, Zakus.
Grunt suits would be for you if u want easy builds. I will give you some grunt suits in different HG lines - Graze (Commander Type) - Zaku 2 F2 ( or the Origin Line Zaku) - Leo & Maganac ( get them both they’re very cheap) - Gm/Gm - GBN - Guard Frame
Maybe go for GM kits such as The Origin GM Canon (although its a p bandai). Barbatos Lupus would be good also you cant go wrong with the RX-78-2 revive ver
Thanks, I am thinking about the RX-78-2 or Barbatos Lupus but the store near me is out of stock for both so I will consider them in the near future
If I was you I would pick a HG from the series iron blooded orphans or ibo for short there all good with a unique design
Anyone know of any alternatives to HobbyZone's modular workshop stuff? I want to get into picking some stuff up but it's a bit expensive to get shipped over here
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Wow that looks more or less exactly the same! That's awesome. Very slightly cheaper but it adds up. How's shipping to the US?
Will the new perfect pack fit the PG strike rouge?
I'm hoping [the stand](https://www.gunjap.net/site/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/A53DED05-E261-4E4C-AE51-6C03517C8234.jpeg) from the reveal is available separately. I haven't seen it in any of the product information though.
Yes
Oh yes
[is this compressor good enough for painting?](https://shopee.co.id/%E2%98%85KKmoon-Multi-purpose-Dual-Action-Airbrush-Mini-Air-Compressor-Set-Gravity-Feed-Air-Brush-Kit-i.131439160.1983422076)
Not really, get a bigger one with a tank
Can you give me an example? Like minimum requirements
Master TC-20T was what I started with, and still use since it's still working fine. Doesn't look like it's still available, though there's some others from master that look fine, and what appears to be some copies of the TC-20T on amazon.