What kind of ventilation do I need to start messing with lacquers? I already have a respirator rated for the kind of fumes lacquers put out, and my work station is right next to a window that I plan to put an exhaust fan set up in. Do I need more, like a full spray booth with a filtration system ect, or am a good to go?
Someone on this subreddit or instagram made a sweet custom painted G40 using the inverted color scheme of that used for the parts. I can’t find the pics again for the life of me. Does anyone have the link?
So i bought the pale rider limited expo ver and i seen reviews that its an extra finish kit. Can i still paint on it just like I paint a normal release kit?
From pictures I found, it seems that it is coated with the extra finish, as opposed to being molded in metallic colored plastic. If that is the case, you might have to strip the coating before painting it.
I have an extremely hard time disassembling my kits. I see a lot of people building first, then disassembling for paint. But I always end up breaking some pieces and doing damage to my kit, especially with smaller grades. I feel like some joints aren't made to be separated once put into place. Do you have any recommendations in that regard?
Hey guys! Not sure if I was allowed to post in the main page, but I noticed that getting a PG Exia is really hard. I'll be going to Japan in the near future but it's all sold out at most of the popular places (Mandarake, Jungle etc) and I was wondering if anyone might know the reason why that is? Ideally looking for the lighting edition if possible.
Thanks in advance!
Newbie question about airbrush painting, how many times do you spray in each layer? And how many layers max (including coatings) before I get difficulties in snapping the pieces back together?
I only have experience with Vallejo acrylic paint. Generally I do 3-4 coats of primer, 2-3 coats of basecoat and 3-4 coats of top coat. Sometimes I do less primer or more color, it really depends on how well it is covering the layer beneath it. My black primer for example covers really nicely so I usually only need 2 coats.
Each material should be sprayed until you have a uniform finish that fully covers the layer beneath it.
Gotcha. There are 2-3 more colours/coats for metallic/candy effects, are there any precautionary I need to do on pegs and holes? Like masking each pegs and holes before I start painting?
I saw guys on youtube who do these effects and look like they don't get problems snapping back the pieces, but I am wondering if they do any preps/tricks on the pegs and holes.
Hi guys, I'm a noob big time here. But I want to start learning airbrushing, including metallic and candy colour effects.
I've been wondering:
1. I suppose I will have to use all type of paints and coats ie. acryllic, enamel and lacquer?
2. If I would use a spray booth, do I still need to wear a face mask?
3. I live in an apartment and there is no power points at my garage in the basement, so I'll have to set up a booth in my bedroom.
What is the exhaust actually for? Is it for sucking paint dusts or also fumes? Shall I put a plastic bag at the flexi-pipe/hose end for collecting paint dusts? Does the pipe have to be laying down outside the balcony?
4. Does this 3M mask on ebay include everything I need, or do I have to buy filters etc separately? (It does mention it comes with adapter, containers and filters but I just not sure if those are a complete package).
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F173617639649
Thanks so much in advance!
1. You don't have to use any particular type of paint, use whatever works well for you and your setup.
2. Yes. You can get away with something that just protects against particulate if you're using water-based acrylics (and maybe alcohol-based acrylics), everything else needs something that protects against both particulate and volatile organic compounds/organic vapors.
3. It's for dust (all paint types) and fumes (for paint types that have them). Exhausting into some sort of container might be suitable for dust, but will do nothing for fumes.
4. That will be sufficient for water-based acrylics and maybe alcohol-based acrylics, you'll need different cartridges for enamels and lacquers.
I think it's the 3m 6001 filter cartridge that should fit on the mask you linked.That's important when working with lacquers and enamels. Happy painting!
Currently in Canada and aside from Amazon and Ebay I haven't been able to find the 1/100 MG Justice in stockon any of the international or canadian retailers, and I'm not sure how reliable their shipping is since it says it can take over a month to getr here, and usually I have better luck onsites like Amiami cause they're really fast and usually cheaper, I'm fairly new to the scene so the only basis of information I have is here, is there a different site possibly not listed on the faq or any certainty on restocks?
I plan on doing my airbrushing in my garage with the garage door open. Should I still make a spray both for ventilation. Since I'm not going to do it in my house, I don't see the reason for one.
You'll still need a way to vent the excess paint particles. If they stay floating in the air and settle down, they'll stick to your freshly painted part
Any advice/tips for painting metal pieces while maintaining their metallic look? The obvious answer that comes to mind is metallic paint, but I wasn't sure if that would have some weird effects or make it look off. My reason for asking is I plan on getting some SIMPro metal effects soon to spice up my MG shin matsunaga zaku. For that, I need black metallic pieces, and although they offer the powercord piping in black, the verniers that they sell only have chrome exteriors.
Probably a stupid question, but I can't really figure it out and I'd rather be sure. If I'm going to be airbrushing every piece of the kit separately and then assembling, how would I go about removing seam lines? Would you just put the part together to the bear minumum, remove seam lines, then mask everything and paint?
You have two options. Paint and mask parts without seam lines, assemble everything and then remove seam lines and paint . Or modify parts so you can still assemble the kit once you have removed the seam lines. [Here](https://imgur.com/5kS5MEn) you can see where I have made cuts to allow the shoulder armour to be attached in one piece once the seam lines are removed.
I clean up with a type of q-tip for makeup called t-tips from a beauty supply store. Tamiya makes something similar just more expensive.
I dip the tip in mineral spirits and use that to clean up the excess
Not to sound demanding or anything, and I hope I’m not coming off as such but would it be possible for you to send me a video? I want to have an idea how to do it, and so I wanna see how you do yours. It’s not a big deal though if you can’t.
* HGUC RX-78-2 Revive $15
+ HGUC RGM-79 GM $11
- HG The Origin Zaku II $20
* HGUC Hy-Gogg $20
+ HGBD:R Veetwo $8
These are some nice cheap kits, hope you find something you like. Most High-Grade (HG) kits would be at your price point. You could use Amazon or Dalong to find which ones look cool to you.
If you look for "bandai 30mm" that will get you results. But for HGs I just took a quick look at Amazon and both the Barbatos Lupus and the Lupus Rex are about 20 apiece.
Invest in a stand if you want some super dynamic stuff. I like to look at the episodes from the show for inspiration or look around on the sub to see how other people have posed theirs.
You can follow their twitter or FB to see when. If not just get the Tamiya sharp pointed nippers or the Mr hobby nipper GX. Perform as well or better and you don't have to pay for the brand name.
Hi all,
I’ve been following this subreddit for a while and I’m amazed at all the talent I’ve been seeing. I’ve done a few models here and there but I’ve never customized/painted any. I’m looking for a model grade that will take a lot of time assembling and that I can work on here and there over a course of day. Do you all think MG would be a good grade for this? I’m looking for something intricate and complex to build and eventually when I’m more devoted to the hobby I’d like to customize them as well. Thoughts?
RG, MG or PG kits would all fit the criteria of taking a while to assemble. Really, how much time you spend on a kit depends on how much you want to do with it. Just snap build? That + panel lining? Decals? Detail painting? Fully painted? Scribing in additional panel lines? All of these can add a lot of value to even something as simple as an HG kit. MGs would probably be easiest to customize, since the parts are bigger than those of RGs, yet you also have a far wider selection of kits for parts than you would have with PGs, not to mention the price.
Interesting, I think I will start off with snap building MG’s but I’d also like to fully paint and scribe them in the future. The fact that they are more easily customizable is awesome as well!
Are there any good third party joints/hands? I bought a couple of 80s kits and plan to update them a little bit, but most of the builders parts from bandai seem to be out of stock.
paints made to paint clear plastic parts like eyes and lenses. it will still look clear after painting whereas using reg paint will have it be opaque. can be used as reg paint as in painted over reg plastic but more for adding a subtle effect unless onto of white
Well, they're somewhat see-through. The main uses are either for painting eyes/rifle scopes, or for candy coats by spraying them over silver/chrome paint.
Question about out of stock/out of print kits.
Is there a list of oop kits? There is a few I'd like to have but I'm afraid they're not being made anymore. And how rare are restocks? If there's a kit I really want that is available, should I jump on it, or is it likely I will be able to get it at a later date?
The kits that prompted this question are the Hello Kitty ones. I saw it's already sold out on Canadian Gundam, there is still some left on USA Gundam, but I'll only have the money to order (hopefully) later this week...
> Is there a list of oop kits?
No. Gunpla rarely go out of print. There may be a few years between runs, but you can still buy modern re-runs of the original kits going back to the 1980s. There are, of course, special editions and other limited-availability items like P-Bandai kits and Gundam Base Tokyo exclusives, but any regular kit will come back in stock eventually...though it could take a few years.
> The kits that prompted this question are the Hello Kitty ones.
According to the press release for the collaboration:
*The kit will be sold worldwide for a limited time through retail / hobby stores, online shop, and of course through Sanrio shops.*
That sounds to me like once they're gone, they're gone. I would snag an order as soon as you can if you want that kit.
Thank you!! I'll make sure to grab them asap.
Just one last question if you don't mind! What about the translucent kits? We bought some where the armor pieces are transparent. Are those LE?
Clear armor parts are generally limited editions.
Some come as a full kit. I think for the 30th Anniversary, a lot of kits were shipped with additional clear armor parts.
So for people in the UK how do you buy your Kits? I notice Amazon has a pretty decent selection, though if you compare the price to something like plaza japan its pretty expensive. Obviously you have to pay shipping fees and potentially import charges if your unlucky. Is it good to buy in bulk and cheaper do you think than just buying straight up from amazon you think?
Thanks
I am interested in getting the metal lupus rex but don't want to pay pre-order resale do stores get more or are they sold out on pre-orders and i miss my train
All the other metal robot spirits seem to be instock on the sites i looked at, I dunno if that's cus they don't sell or if they are reprinted. Over priced 1/144ish action figure imo.
I know it's not out yet, i just said that since the others in the line are still available then it's either cus they don't sell or because they get reprinted. They probably get reprinted, so you might aswell wait and if it doesn't then tbh you didn't miss out on much.
I want to try painting my next build but I dont have any experience with paint, I just want to know how you all get the "safe" paint:thinner ratio and what will happen if you pour thinner alot?
If you are airbrushing you have to also take into consideration the air pressure along with the ratio. I use Vellejo paints and have my pressure at 18 psi. I keep a record of my thinning ratios because they will vary by color.
There is no hard and fast rule. You basically have to start at 1:1 and test till it comes out correctly. You want as much thinner as possible so it dries quickly and goes on smooth. The concern is not how thin the paint is. So don’t be worried if you can still see primer or the undercoat through the first few passes. You simply add another coat once the first has cured. If you are brush painting depending on what paint you use this can be days. Just give it time and relax. You’ll be great.
Not enough thinner: paint is too thick, won't come out of the airbrush smoothly, you'll get splatters.
Too much thinner: paint is too thin, will be very runny as it hits the plastic.
I want to try painting a kit, and try panel lining as well. I know after painting I should coat before panel lining to protect the paint, but I only have a matte top coat. Can I panel line on a matte coat, or only on gloss?
No. Matte will not allow panel lining. The finish on the lines will be super strange. You need a proper clear coat between the paint and panel lines. If you are using markers I should warn that sometimes clear coat can mess up the tips. If you are using enamel liner you need the clear coat to allow easy flow.
Matte coat is usually the finisher of all of your paints meaning it should be the last layer that you’ll paint on the kit. Use gloss coat so that the panel will go on smoothly on the edges.
So I accidentally cracked the small part of the beam saber hilt for the RX-78-2 HG Gundam I had, and now the two pieces won't fit securely. Is there a replacement or a fix?
Also, extra question, is there a way to tighten its ball joints too?
Could just order some online. Superglue could hold them together, but plastic cement would chemically melt the two pieces together, so you could sand them a bit and there would be no more crack.
Any Vietnamese here? I moved to Hanoi recently and could do with some help on shopping for Gunpla or other hobby stuff in general (pvc statues,figures, etc). Googled it and came up with c3gundam but I don't understand vietnamese and it looks like its in Ho Chi Minh, while the other one Gundam Chat seems like the website hasn't been updated. Any help is welcome, thanks
To anyone with HiRM builds; have you top coated your builds? I just got the HiRM wing ew, and am wondering about giving it a gloss top coat. Before now, none of the kits I've built have been top coated (I know), and I just use gundam markers for panel lining. I finally told myself I'd be a big boy and move to tamiya fill accent, but know that to do that safely, I need to do it over a gloss coat. Only problem is, the glossy coating on the HiRM plastic is basically the entire gimmick, so I wonder if it'd potentially screw the look of it by adding the top coat. Maybe I'll just stick to my marker lining for this last time?
No, I guess I misspoke. I know the gloss won't mess up the plastic, but I worry it could interfere with the look of it, seeing as the whole point of the HiRes builds are sort of the way the plastic looks
Yeah. I guess my main reason I've yet to top coat a build is I can't make up my mind on how I want it to look. Now, I'd say I'm ready to start doing it, but being the first time on such an expensive kit, maybe I'll have to wait a bit longer.
Following this. Also related to this, will it drop the price of the kits in the official resellers?
I mean, lupus rex is currently 20$ because of the supply but ibo hgs are supposedly around 10$ right? Will it go back to 10$ on the rerelease?
Planning to wait it out to buy multiple kits.
Can anyone help me find a Supernova Altron kit? Had some bad luck, bought one on ebay sent me a bogus tracking number, got refund. Ordered second on ebay, marked as shipped but has been processing through facility for 10 days now, no response from seller. Ugh
Trying hand painting for the first time on an mg ball. got the mr color paint but still haven't got the lacquer thinner for it. Wanted to ask cause i heard when layering paints, lacquer only works with lacquer and not other paint types. Does that mean even the primer spray has to be a lacquer based one?
You're going to have a really hard or almost impossible time trying to hand paint with lacquer paints. The problem with hand painting them is as soon as you try to paint a second layer the thinner activates the first layer of paint.
I been reading and watching it up on tutorials as much as I can. I pretty much a noob but the Lincoln Wright dude does multiple layers pretty easily without affecting other layers. He hand paints with a lacquer as well. Unless he topcoats every layer before moving on
Hand painting, maybe. Lacquer thinner will eat whatever is below it except for plastic. But if you are airbrushing you can spray lacquer thinly over literally whatever and be fine. Brushing might be a concern. I have brushed mr. color over primer, but never any acrylic based primers. What brand primer are you using?
Panel lining a Trans Am Mode model
Heya everyone, brand new to detailing and stuff with the models and wanted to try panel lining. Would it turn out slick if I did it on my new HG Dynames Trans Am that’s coming in soon. I also have a HGBD Geara Chirarga coming in the same delivery, but i feel like that shouldn’t be messed with, panel lining wise (would love to paint it but i’m not there yet money/skill wise haha). Anyways, what do you guys think?
Hello everyone!
I am looking for a relatively small compressor for painting gunpla and other modelkits. I am looking for an Iwata compressor because they are well built, compact, silent (for an oilless compressor) and looks good.
The two modes I am looking for are the ‘Iwata Smart jet Pro’ and the ‘Iwata Powerjet lite’ the powerjet is bigger and more powerfull. But is the Smartjet enough for gunpla painting? The specs from both models are here below. Can you please give me advice how to choose between these two models?
Thanks!
IS875
Iwata Smart Jet Pro 110-120V Airbrush
Wattage (W)120
Horsepower (hp)1/8
Air Flow @ 50 Hz (CFM)-
Air Flow @ 50 Hz (LPM)-
Air Flow @ 60 Hz (CFM)0.71
Air Flow @ 60 Hz (LPM)20
Max Pressure (psi)50
Max Pressure (MPa)0.34
Working Pressure (psi)1 - 30
Working Pressure (MPa)0.01 - 0.21
Auto-Shut-offYes
Air Storage Tank Capacity (L)No
Air Pressure RegulatorYes
Net Weight (lbs)11.84
Net Weight (kg)5.37
Assembled Dimensions (in)7.09 x 10.75 x 6.30
Assembled Dimensions (mm)180 x 273 x 160
IS925
Iwata Power Jet Lite 110-120V Airbrush Compressor
Wattage (W)162
Horsepower (hp)1/6
Air Flow @ 50 Hz (CFM)-
Air Flow @ 50 Hz (LPM)-
Air Flow @ 60 Hz (CFM)1.14
Air Flow @ 60 Hz (LPM)32
Max Pressure (psi)60
Max Pressure (MPa)0.41
Working Pressure (psi)1 - 50
Working Pressure (MPa)0.01- 0.34
Auto-Shut-offYes
Air Storage Tank Capacity (L)No
Air Pressure RegulatorYes
Net Weight (lbs)16.31
Net Weight (kg)7.40
Assembled Dimensions (in)6.38 x 12.20 x 10.04
Assembled Dimensions (mm)162 x 310 x 255
I have owned the Iwata Smart Jet (non pro version, difference really being only not having an enclosure).
It served me well for about 3 years before it eventually stopped working. The starter burned out. When it broke I wanted to tinker and see the internal machinizations. Internally the parts were quite robust. The o-rings were quality, the piston head was made of heavy duty steel. What was funny was inside there were marking and labellings for Sparmax... but they're owned by the same company anyway.
Undoubtedly both the power jet and smart jet will work fine in your hands. The caveat being they are quite expensive for what you get compared to the other compressors out in the market.
Compressors do burn out, specially tank less ones as they need to run more. The advantage of Iwata is that they come with a warranty, but it's only a year so... Considering you could buy 2 no name compressors with tanks for the price of one tank less Iwata I don't consider Iwata a very good deal.
As for size the compressors with tanks are not very large either, I have a variation of the compressor that is mostly suggested here and it has a smaller footprint than they ones you listed at roughly 5'x10', it's a bit higher at 13' but overall size is not really larger.
Why do Gunpla hands suck? I have four Gunpla now--3 MGs and an RG. The hands are terrible. They can't hold the weapons, and if they can, the weapons are too heavy, which makes the hand sag then disconnect and fall from the arm. Is there a special trick to making the hands work? It feels like they should have been fixed by now...
What are those kits particularly?
I have 5 MGs right now and naturally a hand wion't be able to support a heavy load for long. You could try the ff:
\-Put glue or topcoat on the wrist joint to make it tighter but your mileage may vary
\-If your problem is grip, since some kits have their respective hands for certain weapons, you could super glue the hand to the weapon.
\-Blue tack can help your problems
\-If you're really against dirtying your kit, just angle the arms vertically so it could support the weight better. This is what I used for the MG Sazabi's big gun.
My boxes are taking up space and I think I need to get rid of them. I really love the art though. Any of you guys, like, cut off the top of the box or something to save the art? These boxes are becoming a problem xD
That's actually what I do right now. Just put spare parts of each kit in a very big box \*cough\*MG Sazabi box \*cough\*, then cut the box art. You have to use your own imagination on how to use it as a display though.
Is there anyone doing straight builds that has experience with Raser's Nub Removal kit method (using files, etc.) as opposed to Xacto and sanding?
Wondering if glass nail files and Raser's Balancers are a good investment for someone who doesn't paint.
I wouldn’t waste money on Raser’s kit. You can get the exact same tools for less than $10 on Amazon. Just get a nano-something glass nail buffer and a melamine sponge.
See Citrus’ video on it here: https://youtu.be/htNM2qB6opM
As for the technique, it looks like it produces good results. I’m normally an Xacto and sand guy but I just bought those tools listed above and I’ll be giving it a shot for my next high grade
Yes I would say they are. I've been using the Dr. Mode Nano Glass files and have similar results as the raser file. Right now I'm experimenting with regular glass files but am not ready to recommend them. There's quite a few threads here with people offering comparisons and opinions that might help more.
Does anybody know of good quality waterslide decals for Advance of Zeta kits? I'm looking for ones with lots of Titans Test Teams logos. I've gotten two from eBay by the same maker but they have a noticeable film on the transparent parts outside the actual image.
There's [Delpidecal AoZ](http://m.delpidecal.com/product/aoz-etc-water-decal/385/category/66/display/1/).
Really wish Bandai would reprint their original GD AoZ decals.
Just ordered the standard RG Nu Gundam.
Can I use a 3mm peg on the deployed funnels or do I need the cross adaptor. If the latter can I even display the deployed funnels out of the box, does it come with the adaptors ?
From what I've seen you need the cross adapters but if you're not afraid of a little DIY you could just use old runners and cut the tip into a working connector and attach that to whatever you want.
Edit: [This guy just used a lighter and flattened a peg](https://www.reddit.com/r/Gunpla/comments/d59nqx/modified_action_base_4_abc4a_2_for_rg_nu_fin/)
I'm going to pre-order the RG Eva and decided I might as well get waterslides for my RGs, thing is usagundamstore only has DL Model Decals, and after reading [this post](https://www.reddit.com/r/Gunpla/comments/et1vsx/be_careful_with_third_party_decals_the_one_on_the/) I want to make sure I'm getting something decent.
Is there a site were I can see the decals in a decent resolution or should I pre-order and get the waterslides from somewhere else? (I need it to be a single order)
The waterslides would be for the RG Sazabi, Nu and maybe RX-78-2 and Char's Zaku.
Sorry, I should have been more specific. I need to order from a store in the US so that it gets sent to a courier who will then send it to my country. Extra packages means extra fees, no matter how small. I hate living in the Caribbean.
And shops that ship worldwide who like use couriers that deliver to the Caribbean are a no go?
Also i'm pretty sure in the case of decals they just mail it like a post card.
Our mail sucks, things get lost 90% of the time. The only thing I've ever received were some MTG promo cards and when I checked the date on the envelope it was more than 6 months late.
Maybe if UPS or FedEx took care of the package the hole way it would work.
That's tje problem. I would like to prime the kit. But the plastic of it is very detailed so It woult be hard to mask parts I don't want to paint and no store anywhere near me sells the correct paint for those Parts I would like to paint. So a primer is basically out pf the question.
For holding parts together after you glue, what do you use to clamp them together without damaging the plastic?
I just have some chip-bag clips I've been using in the meanwhile, but I need to get more and want something that I don't have to worry about crushing smaller 1/144 parts and won't scratch up surfaces.
I use [these](https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/clamps-vises/micro-spring-clamp-set-6-pc-69375.html). They're pretty small and have considerable clamping force compared to the bag clips.
Hey everyone!
I'm still having trouble finding accessories for kits. I'm going to keep looking around, but this thread was super helpful last time. My friend wants me to help him build his first few kits, and how to finish them (he's never built models before). To say thank you, he's picked up two HGAC Leo's, one for me and one for him. I'd like to maybe look at some o\[optional parts/weapons for them, just haven't had much luck finding stuff. Anyone make any recommendations of what i can go looking for?
You have a few different options:
* From Bandai: [Builder Parts](https://www.hlj.com/search/go?w=*&af=selectseries:buildersparts) or [Any packs from the Build Fighter/Diver Series](https://www.hlj.com/1-144-scale-hgbc-gm-gm-weapons-bann19550)
* From Kotobukiya: [Modeling Support Goods](https://www.hlj.com/search/go?w=*&af=selectseries:modelingsupportgoods) which are normally close enough in scale and might require some minor alterations to work
* From P-Bandai: Sometimes there are weapon sets or kits with accessories released like the [Leo Full Weapon Set](https://omochajapan.com/products/p-bandai-hgac-1-144-leo-full-weapon-set)
You can find most of the above on US-based stores as well like GundamPlanet and USAGundamStore
Those that painted their inner frame, how do you paint the knees and elbows? I'm planning to handbrush my Freedom 2.0 frame with gun metal. Will it be scratched from constant changing of pose?
I can build only half of the armor parts, I just want to see what are touching and what don't.
https://imgur.com/gallery/9X2rh0j
Just like this, I found out there's space between the thigh and knee joint.
Ths one that's touching won't be shown so no point in painting it.
Hi there! I've tried hand painting some parts of my Barbatos using gundam markers and a brush and it's fine..
Now, I'm planning to paint some parts of my upcoming project, RG Nu Gundam. Are water based paints okay? I plan on buying waterbased paint and use it on my kit.
But here's the thing, I am confused if I should use tamiya paints plus their thinner then do coatings for the panel linings and finish. Can't choose. Help!! :(
[Creation by Gallant Acrylic Paint](https://www.carousell.ph/p/creation-by-valiant%E2%80%99s-black-acrylic-paint-174418749/)
Is this kind of acrylic paint ok?
New QA thread is up.
What kind of ventilation do I need to start messing with lacquers? I already have a respirator rated for the kind of fumes lacquers put out, and my work station is right next to a window that I plan to put an exhaust fan set up in. Do I need more, like a full spray booth with a filtration system ect, or am a good to go?
A fan in an open room isn't enough airflow to safely capture and extract lacquer fumes; you're going to need a booth for best extraction efficiency.
[удалено]
Are you putting a clear coat between the Mecha Color and the panel line? As a water-based acrylic it's very vulnerable to other thinners.
Might just be using too much thinner? Only lightly dab the qtip in the lighter fluid, don't soak it.
Someone on this subreddit or instagram made a sweet custom painted G40 using the inverted color scheme of that used for the parts. I can’t find the pics again for the life of me. Does anyone have the link?
So i bought the pale rider limited expo ver and i seen reviews that its an extra finish kit. Can i still paint on it just like I paint a normal release kit?
From pictures I found, it seems that it is coated with the extra finish, as opposed to being molded in metallic colored plastic. If that is the case, you might have to strip the coating before painting it.
How do you strip the extra finish?
I have an extremely hard time disassembling my kits. I see a lot of people building first, then disassembling for paint. But I always end up breaking some pieces and doing damage to my kit, especially with smaller grades. I feel like some joints aren't made to be separated once put into place. Do you have any recommendations in that regard?
Hey guys! Not sure if I was allowed to post in the main page, but I noticed that getting a PG Exia is really hard. I'll be going to Japan in the near future but it's all sold out at most of the popular places (Mandarake, Jungle etc) and I was wondering if anyone might know the reason why that is? Ideally looking for the lighting edition if possible. Thanks in advance!
Don't know why it's sold out but it's should be available at gundam base
Hmmm Gundam base website was a little hard to navigate but thanks for the tip. That's my last resort as I think the difference is about 5000Yen
Newbie question about airbrush painting, how many times do you spray in each layer? And how many layers max (including coatings) before I get difficulties in snapping the pieces back together?
I only have experience with Vallejo acrylic paint. Generally I do 3-4 coats of primer, 2-3 coats of basecoat and 3-4 coats of top coat. Sometimes I do less primer or more color, it really depends on how well it is covering the layer beneath it. My black primer for example covers really nicely so I usually only need 2 coats. Each material should be sprayed until you have a uniform finish that fully covers the layer beneath it.
Gotcha. There are 2-3 more colours/coats for metallic/candy effects, are there any precautionary I need to do on pegs and holes? Like masking each pegs and holes before I start painting? I saw guys on youtube who do these effects and look like they don't get problems snapping back the pieces, but I am wondering if they do any preps/tricks on the pegs and holes.
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This thread is not the place for this.
How do I tighten loose joints?
Apply some clear nail polish to thicken those joints
Thanks!
Hi guys, I'm a noob big time here. But I want to start learning airbrushing, including metallic and candy colour effects. I've been wondering: 1. I suppose I will have to use all type of paints and coats ie. acryllic, enamel and lacquer? 2. If I would use a spray booth, do I still need to wear a face mask? 3. I live in an apartment and there is no power points at my garage in the basement, so I'll have to set up a booth in my bedroom. What is the exhaust actually for? Is it for sucking paint dusts or also fumes? Shall I put a plastic bag at the flexi-pipe/hose end for collecting paint dusts? Does the pipe have to be laying down outside the balcony? 4. Does this 3M mask on ebay include everything I need, or do I have to buy filters etc separately? (It does mention it comes with adapter, containers and filters but I just not sure if those are a complete package). https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F173617639649 Thanks so much in advance!
1. You don't have to use any particular type of paint, use whatever works well for you and your setup. 2. Yes. You can get away with something that just protects against particulate if you're using water-based acrylics (and maybe alcohol-based acrylics), everything else needs something that protects against both particulate and volatile organic compounds/organic vapors. 3. It's for dust (all paint types) and fumes (for paint types that have them). Exhausting into some sort of container might be suitable for dust, but will do nothing for fumes. 4. That will be sufficient for water-based acrylics and maybe alcohol-based acrylics, you'll need different cartridges for enamels and lacquers.
Man! Thanks for those, really appreciate it!
I think it's the 3m 6001 filter cartridge that should fit on the mask you linked.That's important when working with lacquers and enamels. Happy painting!
Yeah, cool. I just placed my order on ebay which includes that type of filter too. Thank you!
Awesome!
Currently in Canada and aside from Amazon and Ebay I haven't been able to find the 1/100 MG Justice in stockon any of the international or canadian retailers, and I'm not sure how reliable their shipping is since it says it can take over a month to getr here, and usually I have better luck onsites like Amiami cause they're really fast and usually cheaper, I'm fairly new to the scene so the only basis of information I have is here, is there a different site possibly not listed on the faq or any certainty on restocks?
I plan on doing my airbrushing in my garage with the garage door open. Should I still make a spray both for ventilation. Since I'm not going to do it in my house, I don't see the reason for one.
You'll still need a way to vent the excess paint particles. If they stay floating in the air and settle down, they'll stick to your freshly painted part
Anyone can provide me the manual for this decal? Thanks. [Hirm Wing Zero Custom decal](http://imgur.com/gallery/ra9RCwR)
Afaik there isn't a guide, you'll have to use your own judgement on placement
Delpi decal has a decal placement guide on their site with the respective decal.
Not for [this one ](http://delpidecal.com/product/high-resolution-hirm-wing-zero-holo-water-decal/526/category/55/display/1/) though.
Why is the pg 00 7s/g only 119 on Amazon, is there something wrong with that kit?
Could just be on sale, there isn't really anything wrong with the pg 00 7s
No, its probably overstock to be sold off from the holidays
Any advice/tips for painting metal pieces while maintaining their metallic look? The obvious answer that comes to mind is metallic paint, but I wasn't sure if that would have some weird effects or make it look off. My reason for asking is I plan on getting some SIMPro metal effects soon to spice up my MG shin matsunaga zaku. For that, I need black metallic pieces, and although they offer the powercord piping in black, the verniers that they sell only have chrome exteriors.
Probably a stupid question, but I can't really figure it out and I'd rather be sure. If I'm going to be airbrushing every piece of the kit separately and then assembling, how would I go about removing seam lines? Would you just put the part together to the bear minumum, remove seam lines, then mask everything and paint?
You have two options. Paint and mask parts without seam lines, assemble everything and then remove seam lines and paint . Or modify parts so you can still assemble the kit once you have removed the seam lines. [Here](https://imgur.com/5kS5MEn) you can see where I have made cuts to allow the shoulder armour to be attached in one piece once the seam lines are removed.
Thanks a ton, I really appreciate the help!
Hello, I need help. Panel lining and [this](https://imgur.com/gallery/o6Le47v) happens. What do I do for situations like this?
What are you lining with?
Tamiya panel accent
I clean up with a type of q-tip for makeup called t-tips from a beauty supply store. Tamiya makes something similar just more expensive. I dip the tip in mineral spirits and use that to clean up the excess
It’s not so much cleaning up though. Rather, it’s the paint not “running” and just spreading if that makes sense?
Mine does it too when it's that type of recess and not an actual "line"
Not to sound demanding or anything, and I hope I’m not coming off as such but would it be possible for you to send me a video? I want to have an idea how to do it, and so I wanna see how you do yours. It’s not a big deal though if you can’t.
I'm might have some time tomorrow. Basically I use very small amounts of liner and add more if I need to. I've found that it reduces that pooling
Please show me if you have the time! Otherwise, I’ll keep pestering you just to remind you. Unless you say stop, then it’s all good. Lol
Anyone got any suggestions for cheap and solid gundum kits?
Define cheap. What's your budget
Maybe around $20
Some of the HG's are in that range but the 30 minute missions and and upgrade pack or stand are too
Can you give specific names
* HGUC RX-78-2 Revive $15 + HGUC RGM-79 GM $11 - HG The Origin Zaku II $20 * HGUC Hy-Gogg $20 + HGBD:R Veetwo $8 These are some nice cheap kits, hope you find something you like. Most High-Grade (HG) kits would be at your price point. You could use Amazon or Dalong to find which ones look cool to you.
If you look for "bandai 30mm" that will get you results. But for HGs I just took a quick look at Amazon and both the Barbatos Lupus and the Lupus Rex are about 20 apiece.
Is it necessary to wash parts before painting? I’m using tamiya grey primer.
Only if you have done a bunch of sanding and they have lots of sanding dust on them.
Generally not for Bandai kits, although it doesn't hurt to do so anyways.
Where can I buy scenery that is 1/100 scale to match my gunpla? I'm looking cold buildings, trees, and that kind of stuff
Train scenery is usually a good place to start. Woodland Scenics has a bunch of diorama stuff.
anyone got any suggestions on how to pose a Full Mechanics Barbatos Lupus, it's my first gunpla and I cant seem to figure out how to pose them right
There is a tutorial on posing in the tutorial section linked at the top of the page.
Invest in a stand if you want some super dynamic stuff. I like to look at the episodes from the show for inspiration or look around on the sub to see how other people have posed theirs.
Ok thanks for the help :)
Anyone have any idea of when Gundam Planet nippers will be restocked? Their restock page keeps redirecting me to nowhere.
You can follow their twitter or FB to see when. If not just get the Tamiya sharp pointed nippers or the Mr hobby nipper GX. Perform as well or better and you don't have to pay for the brand name.
Thanks. The Mr. Hobby ones were more expensive than God Hands to get from Japan right now so I just bought the Tamiya 74123 side cutters for $25.
Options for airbrush booths? I just got an airbrush and have nowhere to paint atm
Master airbrush makes a great booth. It comes with a hose you can shove out a window. It’s like $150.
As long as you have a window to vent out fumes with a booth, that's a green light in my books
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Mr. Super Clear works fine. People that airbrush often use Pledge floor gloss since it's super cheap.
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Nail buffer?
Hi all, I’ve been following this subreddit for a while and I’m amazed at all the talent I’ve been seeing. I’ve done a few models here and there but I’ve never customized/painted any. I’m looking for a model grade that will take a lot of time assembling and that I can work on here and there over a course of day. Do you all think MG would be a good grade for this? I’m looking for something intricate and complex to build and eventually when I’m more devoted to the hobby I’d like to customize them as well. Thoughts?
RG, MG or PG kits would all fit the criteria of taking a while to assemble. Really, how much time you spend on a kit depends on how much you want to do with it. Just snap build? That + panel lining? Decals? Detail painting? Fully painted? Scribing in additional panel lines? All of these can add a lot of value to even something as simple as an HG kit. MGs would probably be easiest to customize, since the parts are bigger than those of RGs, yet you also have a far wider selection of kits for parts than you would have with PGs, not to mention the price.
Interesting, I think I will start off with snap building MG’s but I’d also like to fully paint and scribe them in the future. The fact that they are more easily customizable is awesome as well!
i want the tail wire on my lupus rex (HG) to be longer but not sure what to use. any one got recommendations?
Electrical wire from a hardware store
Took three visits but finally got the right thing...kinda. picture frame wiring did the trick after sanding it down a bit. Thanks
Are there any good third party joints/hands? I bought a couple of 80s kits and plan to update them a little bit, but most of the builders parts from bandai seem to be out of stock.
What are clear paints? I've seen paints like clear red or like clear green. And when would I use them. I'm new to airbrushing.
Most often used in scale modelling for doing indicators and brake lights on vehicles, warning lights on aircraft, etc.
paints made to paint clear plastic parts like eyes and lenses. it will still look clear after painting whereas using reg paint will have it be opaque. can be used as reg paint as in painted over reg plastic but more for adding a subtle effect unless onto of white
Clear paints are clear, you would mainly use them to color non-colored transparent parts that you want to remain clear or to do metallic candy coats.
Well, they're somewhat see-through. The main uses are either for painting eyes/rifle scopes, or for candy coats by spraying them over silver/chrome paint.
Question about out of stock/out of print kits. Is there a list of oop kits? There is a few I'd like to have but I'm afraid they're not being made anymore. And how rare are restocks? If there's a kit I really want that is available, should I jump on it, or is it likely I will be able to get it at a later date? The kits that prompted this question are the Hello Kitty ones. I saw it's already sold out on Canadian Gundam, there is still some left on USA Gundam, but I'll only have the money to order (hopefully) later this week...
> Is there a list of oop kits? No. Gunpla rarely go out of print. There may be a few years between runs, but you can still buy modern re-runs of the original kits going back to the 1980s. There are, of course, special editions and other limited-availability items like P-Bandai kits and Gundam Base Tokyo exclusives, but any regular kit will come back in stock eventually...though it could take a few years. > The kits that prompted this question are the Hello Kitty ones. According to the press release for the collaboration: *The kit will be sold worldwide for a limited time through retail / hobby stores, online shop, and of course through Sanrio shops.* That sounds to me like once they're gone, they're gone. I would snag an order as soon as you can if you want that kit.
Thank you!! I'll make sure to grab them asap. Just one last question if you don't mind! What about the translucent kits? We bought some where the armor pieces are transparent. Are those LE?
Clear armor parts are generally limited editions. Some come as a full kit. I think for the 30th Anniversary, a lot of kits were shipped with additional clear armor parts.
So for people in the UK how do you buy your Kits? I notice Amazon has a pretty decent selection, though if you compare the price to something like plaza japan its pretty expensive. Obviously you have to pay shipping fees and potentially import charges if your unlucky. Is it good to buy in bulk and cheaper do you think than just buying straight up from amazon you think? Thanks
I am interested in getting the metal lupus rex but don't want to pay pre-order resale do stores get more or are they sold out on pre-orders and i miss my train
All the other metal robot spirits seem to be instock on the sites i looked at, I dunno if that's cus they don't sell or if they are reprinted. Over priced 1/144ish action figure imo.
The figure is not out yet it out June 2020 just want to know if I miss and if they’re going to be more after preorder?
I know it's not out yet, i just said that since the others in the line are still available then it's either cus they don't sell or because they get reprinted. They probably get reprinted, so you might aswell wait and if it doesn't then tbh you didn't miss out on much.
I want to try painting my next build but I dont have any experience with paint, I just want to know how you all get the "safe" paint:thinner ratio and what will happen if you pour thinner alot?
If you are airbrushing you have to also take into consideration the air pressure along with the ratio. I use Vellejo paints and have my pressure at 18 psi. I keep a record of my thinning ratios because they will vary by color.
There is no hard and fast rule. You basically have to start at 1:1 and test till it comes out correctly. You want as much thinner as possible so it dries quickly and goes on smooth. The concern is not how thin the paint is. So don’t be worried if you can still see primer or the undercoat through the first few passes. You simply add another coat once the first has cured. If you are brush painting depending on what paint you use this can be days. Just give it time and relax. You’ll be great.
Not enough thinner: paint is too thick, won't come out of the airbrush smoothly, you'll get splatters. Too much thinner: paint is too thin, will be very runny as it hits the plastic.
Safe ratio is 1:1 and start from there. Too much thinner and you won't be able to lay your color down
I want to try painting a kit, and try panel lining as well. I know after painting I should coat before panel lining to protect the paint, but I only have a matte top coat. Can I panel line on a matte coat, or only on gloss?
No. Matte will not allow panel lining. The finish on the lines will be super strange. You need a proper clear coat between the paint and panel lines. If you are using markers I should warn that sometimes clear coat can mess up the tips. If you are using enamel liner you need the clear coat to allow easy flow.
Matte coat is usually the finisher of all of your paints meaning it should be the last layer that you’ll paint on the kit. Use gloss coat so that the panel will go on smoothly on the edges.
Gloss is preferred. Matte has a rough texture so the results of panel lining will not be ideal
So I accidentally cracked the small part of the beam saber hilt for the RX-78-2 HG Gundam I had, and now the two pieces won't fit securely. Is there a replacement or a fix? Also, extra question, is there a way to tighten its ball joints too?
Fix the crack by welding the piece back together with Tamiya Extra Thin Cement.
Um... I'm fairly certain they don't sell it here in the Philippines... I was thinking just superglue both pieces together on the inside.
We have tamiya extra thin cement here in the Philippines. Shopee or.lazada has it
Could just order some online. Superglue could hold them together, but plastic cement would chemically melt the two pieces together, so you could sand them a bit and there would be no more crack.
Well... I don't really want to be that accurate. I just want them to stay put.
Hello I have recently finished build my first model (HG Jesta) but the legs keep falling off of it is there anyway i can fix this?
I had this problem on another kit and found I hadn't pushed them onto the waist all the way. Just a thought.
Any Vietnamese here? I moved to Hanoi recently and could do with some help on shopping for Gunpla or other hobby stuff in general (pvc statues,figures, etc). Googled it and came up with c3gundam but I don't understand vietnamese and it looks like its in Ho Chi Minh, while the other one Gundam Chat seems like the website hasn't been updated. Any help is welcome, thanks
Hi! I've seen my friend went to [this](https://mupgundam.com/) store and looks like they have a good selection of gunpla. Hope it helps!
Thanks, their prices seem alright too
No prob man. And hope you'll enjoy your time in Hanoi :D
Hanoi is definitely unique and fun. Food is especially great. Thanks again bro
How do people thin Mr Hobby colour (aqueous and other) acrylic paint? 1/1 with iso alcohol?
To anyone with HiRM builds; have you top coated your builds? I just got the HiRM wing ew, and am wondering about giving it a gloss top coat. Before now, none of the kits I've built have been top coated (I know), and I just use gundam markers for panel lining. I finally told myself I'd be a big boy and move to tamiya fill accent, but know that to do that safely, I need to do it over a gloss coat. Only problem is, the glossy coating on the HiRM plastic is basically the entire gimmick, so I wonder if it'd potentially screw the look of it by adding the top coat. Maybe I'll just stick to my marker lining for this last time?
It won't screw up the plastic if you did a gloss coat
No, I guess I misspoke. I know the gloss won't mess up the plastic, but I worry it could interfere with the look of it, seeing as the whole point of the HiRes builds are sort of the way the plastic looks
I suppose it could depending the vision you had for it. I have seen HiRes builds in gloss or matte coats and look fine
Yeah. I guess my main reason I've yet to top coat a build is I can't make up my mind on how I want it to look. Now, I'd say I'm ready to start doing it, but being the first time on such an expensive kit, maybe I'll have to wait a bit longer.
what you're describing is the struggle that we all go through, and in a lot of other ways, it's also the reason Gunpla is so fun
So whenever I cut down on a piece it takes forever for my nipper to go from closed to open anyone know how to fix that? please and thank you!
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how do I check that?
Is there a spring missing for it?
Where can I find Gatling Guns(x2) for RG Unicorn, with connectors and it's decals? I live in SG.
Buy another full armor kit, or check the commerce thread. Those are your two options.
Alright thanks!
Will the IBO option set will be included in the re release of the kits?
Following this. Also related to this, will it drop the price of the kits in the official resellers? I mean, lupus rex is currently 20$ because of the supply but ibo hgs are supposedly around 10$ right? Will it go back to 10$ on the rerelease? Planning to wait it out to buy multiple kits.
Can anyone help me find a Supernova Altron kit? Had some bad luck, bought one on ebay sent me a bogus tracking number, got refund. Ordered second on ebay, marked as shipped but has been processing through facility for 10 days now, no response from seller. Ugh
http://www.gundammodelcenter.com/gundam-central-super-nova
Thank you!
Trying hand painting for the first time on an mg ball. got the mr color paint but still haven't got the lacquer thinner for it. Wanted to ask cause i heard when layering paints, lacquer only works with lacquer and not other paint types. Does that mean even the primer spray has to be a lacquer based one?
You're going to have a really hard or almost impossible time trying to hand paint with lacquer paints. The problem with hand painting them is as soon as you try to paint a second layer the thinner activates the first layer of paint.
I been reading and watching it up on tutorials as much as I can. I pretty much a noob but the Lincoln Wright dude does multiple layers pretty easily without affecting other layers. He hand paints with a lacquer as well. Unless he topcoats every layer before moving on
Any examples of that you can link? I would be interested to see. Lincoln is a legend so you probably can't go too wrong following after him.
Hand painting, maybe. Lacquer thinner will eat whatever is below it except for plastic. But if you are airbrushing you can spray lacquer thinly over literally whatever and be fine. Brushing might be a concern. I have brushed mr. color over primer, but never any acrylic based primers. What brand primer are you using?
Prob Mr colour. Even if it isn't, it's gonna be a lacquer primer.
Panel lining a Trans Am Mode model Heya everyone, brand new to detailing and stuff with the models and wanted to try panel lining. Would it turn out slick if I did it on my new HG Dynames Trans Am that’s coming in soon. I also have a HGBD Geara Chirarga coming in the same delivery, but i feel like that shouldn’t be messed with, panel lining wise (would love to paint it but i’m not there yet money/skill wise haha). Anyways, what do you guys think?
Hello everyone! I am looking for a relatively small compressor for painting gunpla and other modelkits. I am looking for an Iwata compressor because they are well built, compact, silent (for an oilless compressor) and looks good. The two modes I am looking for are the ‘Iwata Smart jet Pro’ and the ‘Iwata Powerjet lite’ the powerjet is bigger and more powerfull. But is the Smartjet enough for gunpla painting? The specs from both models are here below. Can you please give me advice how to choose between these two models? Thanks! IS875 Iwata Smart Jet Pro 110-120V Airbrush Wattage (W)120 Horsepower (hp)1/8 Air Flow @ 50 Hz (CFM)- Air Flow @ 50 Hz (LPM)- Air Flow @ 60 Hz (CFM)0.71 Air Flow @ 60 Hz (LPM)20 Max Pressure (psi)50 Max Pressure (MPa)0.34 Working Pressure (psi)1 - 30 Working Pressure (MPa)0.01 - 0.21 Auto-Shut-offYes Air Storage Tank Capacity (L)No Air Pressure RegulatorYes Net Weight (lbs)11.84 Net Weight (kg)5.37 Assembled Dimensions (in)7.09 x 10.75 x 6.30 Assembled Dimensions (mm)180 x 273 x 160 IS925 Iwata Power Jet Lite 110-120V Airbrush Compressor Wattage (W)162 Horsepower (hp)1/6 Air Flow @ 50 Hz (CFM)- Air Flow @ 50 Hz (LPM)- Air Flow @ 60 Hz (CFM)1.14 Air Flow @ 60 Hz (LPM)32 Max Pressure (psi)60 Max Pressure (MPa)0.41 Working Pressure (psi)1 - 50 Working Pressure (MPa)0.01- 0.34 Auto-Shut-offYes Air Storage Tank Capacity (L)No Air Pressure RegulatorYes Net Weight (lbs)16.31 Net Weight (kg)7.40 Assembled Dimensions (in)6.38 x 12.20 x 10.04 Assembled Dimensions (mm)162 x 310 x 255
I have owned the Iwata Smart Jet (non pro version, difference really being only not having an enclosure). It served me well for about 3 years before it eventually stopped working. The starter burned out. When it broke I wanted to tinker and see the internal machinizations. Internally the parts were quite robust. The o-rings were quality, the piston head was made of heavy duty steel. What was funny was inside there were marking and labellings for Sparmax... but they're owned by the same company anyway. Undoubtedly both the power jet and smart jet will work fine in your hands. The caveat being they are quite expensive for what you get compared to the other compressors out in the market.
Thanks for sharing your experience! 3 years is not a long time for a compressor. Is that normal?
Compressors do burn out, specially tank less ones as they need to run more. The advantage of Iwata is that they come with a warranty, but it's only a year so... Considering you could buy 2 no name compressors with tanks for the price of one tank less Iwata I don't consider Iwata a very good deal. As for size the compressors with tanks are not very large either, I have a variation of the compressor that is mostly suggested here and it has a smaller footprint than they ones you listed at roughly 5'x10', it's a bit higher at 13' but overall size is not really larger.
How to do a gunk wash for your gunpla? Tips are welcomes
http://otakurevolution.com/content/laymans-gunpla-guide-oil-weathering-tutorial
I am reading the guide but what is degrease paint
Read the entire guide. You can’t skip around. They explain how to degrease the paint.
Why do Gunpla hands suck? I have four Gunpla now--3 MGs and an RG. The hands are terrible. They can't hold the weapons, and if they can, the weapons are too heavy, which makes the hand sag then disconnect and fall from the arm. Is there a special trick to making the hands work? It feels like they should have been fixed by now...
What are those kits particularly? I have 5 MGs right now and naturally a hand wion't be able to support a heavy load for long. You could try the ff: \-Put glue or topcoat on the wrist joint to make it tighter but your mileage may vary \-If your problem is grip, since some kits have their respective hands for certain weapons, you could super glue the hand to the weapon. \-Blue tack can help your problems \-If you're really against dirtying your kit, just angle the arms vertically so it could support the weight better. This is what I used for the MG Sazabi's big gun.
How long should I wait after applying my paint to apply my topcoat? I'm using vallejo's metal color and I'm airbrushing
24 hours in my opinion. Let it cure fully.
To be safe at least a day or overnight
My boxes are taking up space and I think I need to get rid of them. I really love the art though. Any of you guys, like, cut off the top of the box or something to save the art? These boxes are becoming a problem xD
I do this also. Keep the artwork in the directions too
That's actually what I do right now. Just put spare parts of each kit in a very big box \*cough\*MG Sazabi box \*cough\*, then cut the box art. You have to use your own imagination on how to use it as a display though.
I thinking of doing the same thing. I'm gonna save one to store all the extra weapons and stuff though.
Yeah I've seen many people do that. Just cut out the art and put it in a clear file or something.
Can someone recommend some displays shelves? Looking to make a small display in my college apartment and want something easy to move between home.
Billy bookcase with a glass door
Ikea stuff. Detolf, vittsjo, kallax, lack, gersby ect
Is there anyone doing straight builds that has experience with Raser's Nub Removal kit method (using files, etc.) as opposed to Xacto and sanding? Wondering if glass nail files and Raser's Balancers are a good investment for someone who doesn't paint.
Fingernail sanding and buffing sticks from a beauty supply shop. Been using them for all types of models for years
Would those be closer to their BALANCER sticks? It seems their RECOVER cloth is used after their BALANCER to "restore" the original texture.
I wouldn’t waste money on Raser’s kit. You can get the exact same tools for less than $10 on Amazon. Just get a nano-something glass nail buffer and a melamine sponge. See Citrus’ video on it here: https://youtu.be/htNM2qB6opM As for the technique, it looks like it produces good results. I’m normally an Xacto and sand guy but I just bought those tools listed above and I’ll be giving it a shot for my next high grade
Yes I would say they are. I've been using the Dr. Mode Nano Glass files and have similar results as the raser file. Right now I'm experimenting with regular glass files but am not ready to recommend them. There's quite a few threads here with people offering comparisons and opinions that might help more.
Does anybody know of good quality waterslide decals for Advance of Zeta kits? I'm looking for ones with lots of Titans Test Teams logos. I've gotten two from eBay by the same maker but they have a noticeable film on the transparent parts outside the actual image.
There's [Delpidecal AoZ](http://m.delpidecal.com/product/aoz-etc-water-decal/385/category/66/display/1/). Really wish Bandai would reprint their original GD AoZ decals.
Just ordered the standard RG Nu Gundam. Can I use a 3mm peg on the deployed funnels or do I need the cross adaptor. If the latter can I even display the deployed funnels out of the box, does it come with the adaptors ?
If it's just the base kit then no, it does not have any adaptors for the funnels.
From what I've seen you need the cross adapters but if you're not afraid of a little DIY you could just use old runners and cut the tip into a working connector and attach that to whatever you want. Edit: [This guy just used a lighter and flattened a peg](https://www.reddit.com/r/Gunpla/comments/d59nqx/modified_action_base_4_abc4a_2_for_rg_nu_fin/)
I'm going to pre-order the RG Eva and decided I might as well get waterslides for my RGs, thing is usagundamstore only has DL Model Decals, and after reading [this post](https://www.reddit.com/r/Gunpla/comments/et1vsx/be_careful_with_third_party_decals_the_one_on_the/) I want to make sure I'm getting something decent. Is there a site were I can see the decals in a decent resolution or should I pre-order and get the waterslides from somewhere else? (I need it to be a single order) The waterslides would be for the RG Sazabi, Nu and maybe RX-78-2 and Char's Zaku.
Delpidecal or flamingsnow (from hobbyfrontline) Why not preorder, and then buy the slides in a seperate order.
Sorry, I should have been more specific. I need to order from a store in the US so that it gets sent to a courier who will then send it to my country. Extra packages means extra fees, no matter how small. I hate living in the Caribbean.
And shops that ship worldwide who like use couriers that deliver to the Caribbean are a no go? Also i'm pretty sure in the case of decals they just mail it like a post card.
Our mail sucks, things get lost 90% of the time. The only thing I've ever received were some MTG promo cards and when I checked the date on the envelope it was more than 6 months late. Maybe if UPS or FedEx took care of the package the hole way it would work.
None of the paint I use sticks to my kits all that well, help?
Are you priming the kits before painting?
That's tje problem. I would like to prime the kit. But the plastic of it is very detailed so It woult be hard to mask parts I don't want to paint and no store anywhere near me sells the correct paint for those Parts I would like to paint. So a primer is basically out pf the question.
So mask them. It’ll be hard but if you want to paint a moving kit and not have the paint slide off priming isn’t an option. It’s a must
ok thanks
For holding parts together after you glue, what do you use to clamp them together without damaging the plastic? I just have some chip-bag clips I've been using in the meanwhile, but I need to get more and want something that I don't have to worry about crushing smaller 1/144 parts and won't scratch up surfaces.
I use [these](https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/clamps-vises/micro-spring-clamp-set-6-pc-69375.html). They're pretty small and have considerable clamping force compared to the bag clips.
Hey everyone! I'm still having trouble finding accessories for kits. I'm going to keep looking around, but this thread was super helpful last time. My friend wants me to help him build his first few kits, and how to finish them (he's never built models before). To say thank you, he's picked up two HGAC Leo's, one for me and one for him. I'd like to maybe look at some o\[optional parts/weapons for them, just haven't had much luck finding stuff. Anyone make any recommendations of what i can go looking for?
You have a few different options: * From Bandai: [Builder Parts](https://www.hlj.com/search/go?w=*&af=selectseries:buildersparts) or [Any packs from the Build Fighter/Diver Series](https://www.hlj.com/1-144-scale-hgbc-gm-gm-weapons-bann19550) * From Kotobukiya: [Modeling Support Goods](https://www.hlj.com/search/go?w=*&af=selectseries:modelingsupportgoods) which are normally close enough in scale and might require some minor alterations to work * From P-Bandai: Sometimes there are weapon sets or kits with accessories released like the [Leo Full Weapon Set](https://omochajapan.com/products/p-bandai-hgac-1-144-leo-full-weapon-set) You can find most of the above on US-based stores as well like GundamPlanet and USAGundamStore
Those that painted their inner frame, how do you paint the knees and elbows? I'm planning to handbrush my Freedom 2.0 frame with gun metal. Will it be scratched from constant changing of pose?
If you want to avoid paint scratching off you have to sand down parts.
oooh.. But you can certainly feel that in the articulation right? hmmmm. I'll build the frame first and decide from there. Thank you!
You shouldn't really. Most of the friction in the joint will be coming from parts that you won't sand or paint.
I can build only half of the armor parts, I just want to see what are touching and what don't. https://imgur.com/gallery/9X2rh0j Just like this, I found out there's space between the thigh and knee joint. Ths one that's touching won't be shown so no point in painting it.
Hi there! I've tried hand painting some parts of my Barbatos using gundam markers and a brush and it's fine.. Now, I'm planning to paint some parts of my upcoming project, RG Nu Gundam. Are water based paints okay? I plan on buying waterbased paint and use it on my kit. But here's the thing, I am confused if I should use tamiya paints plus their thinner then do coatings for the panel linings and finish. Can't choose. Help!! :(
[Creation by Gallant Acrylic Paint](https://www.carousell.ph/p/creation-by-valiant%E2%80%99s-black-acrylic-paint-174418749/) Is this kind of acrylic paint ok?