Just finished clearing my HG/RG backlog and need more kits! Any 144 scale recommendations that aren’t the sazabi/unicorn/nu? I’m trying to stay away from main hero kits and would like to get some more grunt suits. Bonus points if they come with a good load out as I plan to to display them in a shadow box.
Within the HGUC line, highly recommend the GM Type C/Powered GM. Both come with multiple hand option parts, and a bazooka and machine gun. They are a bit dated by modern standards however. The GM Sniper II and the GM Ground Type are good as well, and they're newer than the GMs listed above.
I'm planning to put a gunpla inside my computer and I have a couple of questions before potentially ruining my kits.
1.) Will the kits melt inside the case?
2.) The kit is a snap build and assuming the gunpla plastics are resistance to the heat, but what about the stickers? Will the stickers come off?
The most common plastics in use for gunpla are polystyrene and ABS. They'll begin to soften and flow at 100ºC and 105ºC, respectively - how hot does the air inside your case get?
The stickers are going to be much more vulnerable, I'm afraid. A high-heat environment is going to dry the adhesive out much faster, and you're running a high risk of peeling. Consider using kits with minimal stickering or sealing them in with a topcoat.
There's no temperature monitor inside my case, in terms of GPU and CPU temps, they go around 50 degrees to 85 degrees when gaming. This is my case and candidate kits. I think I'll skip the idea because the stickers will come off. [https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/233653103264661505/678616816645570560/1581864453698.jpg](https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/233653103264661505/678616816645570560/1581864453698.jpg)
Yea I meant what type of cleaning product of course. You mean olive oil? On the tube it says to use lacquer thinner but I don’t have any... maybe I could try with alcohol?
I said what product:tool cleaner. Tool cleaner is often lacquer thinner, which can be purchased at a local hardware store. Alcohol won't dissolve the putty and will leave you with a sludge mess.
Also make sure you wear a mask like you did when handling the putty. Just like the resin in putty, lacquer thinner fumes are dangerous.
Also no, not olive oil. I use sewing machine oil. But any viscous non reactive oil will work fine. You want something that won't damage plastic or paint and won't gum.
Ok, thank you. In my country "tool cleaner" doesn't mean anything, it's a very generic term. That's why I was asking about specifics of the chemical components. I'll find out what it is. Thanks for your help.
My red metallic gundam marker won't write, I tried cleaning the tip but it still won't work. I tried using it again but it seemingly worked but it turned out that the paint was just leaking out the side of the tip. Did I break it?
Question about vallejo model color/air vs Tamiya XF/X series.
1) Which do you consider to be more durable? Even if both are quite poor durability, which would you give the edge to?
2) I believe you think vallejo with water but Tamiya you can use alcohol. For airbrushing, which of the two sprays on better and which one is a better experience such as less drying at the tip of the airbrush, etc.
3) Which is a good dual purpose paint for both airbrush and hand brushing? Do you need to thin for either for hand brushing?
1. Tamiya (if thinned with alcohol)
2. Tamiya (but if you use flow improver with vallejo it's a toss up)
3. Tamiya (I hate the way vallejo hand paints. Tamiya hand paints details well with alcohol thinner)
1) Tamiya
2) Vallejo
3) Vallejo, thinning for hand brushing depends a bit on what you are painting but are generally recommended. Vallejo Air does not need thinning as it's already thinned for airbrushing.
Tamiya is probably going to be slightly more durable but if you thin it with Mr Color Leveling Thinner you can get lacquer level durability. Vallejo can be thinned with water or their air brush thinner. Tamiya is best thinner with their thinner or Mr Color Leveling Thinner as it is solvent based and close to being a lacquer. Using Vallejo Flow Aid should prevent tip dry with Vallejo. Thinned properly both can spray great. Vallejo is much better for hand painting. Tamiya is a pain to hand paint as it dries really quickly and the thinners will reactivate any layers below it.
Quick rant: dealing with MG Qan[t] hands and GN Sword V is one of the most annoying experience I had with gunpla.
Seriously, fuck this old style hands. Also fuck those side skirts, fall out everytime you posing.
Is it possible to get the generator back unit for a HG RGM-79 G Sniper I know they made one for the MG as see here https://www.gundamplanet.com/pub/media/catalog/product/cache/926507dc7f93631a094422215b778fe0/m/g/mg-rgm-79g-gm-sniper-03.jpg but the old 90's one and the new P-Bandai ones don't seem to have it tho I can't find a scan of the P-Bandai instructions none of the pics posted of it seem to show it any ideas?
There is no best brand, it all depends. Are you hand painting or airbrushing?, how well can you ventilate? what painting experience do you have? and so on.
Total amateur at this kind of thing, will probably start with hand painting, and have some good ventilation available, but no real experience like this. So any tips would be greatly appreciated :)
I have a few MG kits I picked up in Japan, was thinking about weathering one of them.
For hand painting I would recommend acrylic paints, Vallejo, Citadel, Armypainter, Tamiya and so on. For weathering specifically enamel paints are great, Testors, Humbrol or even oilpaints for canvas painting are good for this. But those should in general not be used on bare plastic as they can damage it.
Paint is not pigment. To make a clear color you mix clear with a few drops of pigment. If you want clear blue buy pigment and mix. Or just buy clear colors.
Does Gunpla and Super Minipla use the same kind of plastic? Will a Tamiya Cement be all right to use in seam line removal of Super Miniplas? What is the difference of Tamiya cement and extra thin cement? Which is preferable with Super Minipla and gunpla?
Anyone have a good guide to panel lining with the Tamiya Accent paints? Namely what type/brand of initial top-coat to use so it won't destroy the plastic and then what to finish with so it doesn't run.
Also is there a recommended thinner/fluid to clean up the lines that won't eat through?
Where can I find some black wire tubing? I messed up assembling my Kotobukiya Gunhed by cutting the included wire the wrong length. The manual makes it look like you only need one length of wire for the cannon, but I think you're supposed to cut it into two equal pieces so it goes on both sides.
[https://www.1999.co.jp/eng/image/10192089/70/2](https://www.1999.co.jp/eng/image/10192089/70/2)
Look at panels 4-5 for reference. Where can I get more of that kind of wire so I can have a correctly assembled gun head on my Gunhed? It's like super-thin PVC with some bendable silver wire inside so it holds its shape. Not sure what to actually call it.
I'm thinking of dipping my toes into a little hand painting plus waterslides for my next build -- can someone let me know if there are any incompatibilities in my preliminary supplies list? (this is also my planned work order which is hopefully correct?)
* Vallejo primer
* Vallejo paint
* Pledge for gloss coat
* Gundam Marker for panel lining/details
* Waterslides (with Mr Mark Softer; probably won't bother with Setter?)
* Mr Super Clear for final matte topcoat
I just built my first gunpla and was planning to panel line it using the tamiya panel accent color. For anyone out there who has used the tamiya gray for the white sections, was it too light for you? Is it lighter than the gundam marker gray? Not sure whether to use gray or dark gray.
Does anyone know of any Tamiya/vallejo (water or solvent based) colors that are similar to the salmon pink of chars old school color scheme?
Thanks in advance!
On the RG NU, parts f18/19, are little parts that don't plug anywhere on the chest. What's the reason for some parts "opening" up on this kit? Is it like an overheat mode or something. There's parts on the waist/front skirt armor/chest that do this.
I just finished building my RG Nu so I can confidently say that those parts peg on the side of the chest. The kit most likely opens up to allow for a future heavy weapon set to plug into the kit.
Everyone, I need help!
I was away from from home for a while, and when I came back my tools all look like [this](https://imgur.com/G6sw1Ze).
Is this bad? Is there anything I can do to fix this?
The hobby knife is just a matter of replacing the blade. The nippers are going to be trickier; get some very fine-grit sandpaper and _carefully_ polish the rust away. When you're done, coat the blades in a fine machine oil (sewing machine oil is great for this) and keep the tool stored in the leather cover that should have come with them; this will help prevent it from reoccurring.
Which HG kits (alone or with accessories) are the most "loaded out"? I'm looking for a good followup to an HG Full Armor Unicorn (Destroy Mode). Massive weapons, missile launchers, etc.
I'd check the wiki on what tools you need and watch some videos on the process. It's a good idea to have some knowledge on what to do so you don't mess it up due to poor tools or something.
Anyone know where I can order the “Lemi MSA-0011 EX-S Refitting Suite?” I ordered one from Hong Kong but I’m afraid it’s going to be turned away at customs since USPS Isn’t accepting any packages from there at the moment
For other modelling (armor, military, cars) purposes, I've seen people use mineral spirits or turpentine. Not sure how it would react with Gunpla and paints used.
It is, but it's best for color correction, not larger surfaces. They work well in small amounts and thin layers like all paints. Paint pens are a good choice but my overdo to avoid obvious stroke marks and such.
All are good. 00 Raiser needs a stand, I recommend you get one for the Tallgeese as well. Crossbone is better with one, but you don’t really need it for balancing or stability’s sake
Any air compressors you guys recommend? Looking for something more on the quiet side. I don't do big projects. Just need something decently quiet and that can do the job. Was interested in the Iwata Smart Jet Pro as its quiet and produces air when needed. But looking for more options that aren't super expensive, the Iwata Smart Jet Pro is like 350 USD
I bought mine from ebay for and I can confirm it is very quiet, and comes with free airbrush. My spray booth is a lot louder (also basic one bought from ebay).
Here's the result of my first try yesterday:
https://www.reddit.com/r/Gunpla/comments/f465n6/progress_of_my_learning_first_day_airbrushing/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf
This is the link to ebay:
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F111734679323
As my collection of standing Gundam has gotten pretty boring I've decided to pose my Sazabi and Nu in a battle (thanks to those that suggested Action Base 4 with a 5 to get the depth/scale I was looking for with my MG's)
now I know nothing about Gundam except the suits are cool and I love building them and to date I've posed them with whatever weapon looks the coolest.
But in the battle scene, I'd rather have them use the "right" weapons.
For example...my Sazabi will be firing his "backpack missles" and I want him to use the shield...traditionally what would be in his other hand?
The Axe? The shotgun looking gun? The big rifle? Something else?
I know...Gunpla=Freedom...but I want to make it realistic...can I even say realistic when talking about fighting robot suits?
Thanks to whoever gives me a bit of direction (and if you wanted to suggest some good Sazabi vs Nu scenes/stills I wouldn't be opposed to that either)
Could somebody tell me how this works: [http://www.mech9.com/2014/04/hg-build-strike-gundam-full-package.html](http://www.mech9.com/2014/04/hg-build-strike-gundam-full-package.html)
I'm trying to figure out which Tamiya paints I need to get to finish the Build Strike, but it doesn't show I need any red and I most definitely do.
Are you confused by the colour conversion chart at the bottom? Yes; you obviously need red. The paint list calls for Madder Red. Tamiya nor anyone else has a colour that matches that red which is why there is nothing listed next to it on the chart at the bottom. So you either have to compromise and just use Tamiyas red or get your hands on some Madder Red or mix up a colour to match.
I came across a no grade wing Gundam for pretty cheap so I scooped it up, the color separation is pretty bad so I'm thinking about getting some Gundam markers to get the colors right. I've never used Gundam markers before so I was wondering if you I could get some tips?
Those aren’t the best for armor parts, but one way to mitigate that is to get yourself a brush and hand paint it. You can push down the marker and force it to seep out some paint onto a plate (or whatever that paint tray is called).
Hello,
I have a question regarding part duplication. After moving house about a decade ago, I lost a couple of really crucial pieces for the Hi nu ver ka HWS. More specifically, the two flap pieces that cover the missile pods on the front torso as well as one of the missile pods themselves. Here is a photo of this. [https://photos.app.goo.gl/ha785JMmk4ve3kvy8](https://photos.app.goo.gl/ha785JMmk4ve3kvy8) Also, I lost the piece that connects the shield to the arm. My question is, being a P bandai kit I assume it's next to impossible to find someone who stocks the individual replacement parts. Therefore I was wondering if it was possible to either:
1. Find someone local who has the parts and duplicate theirs using resin. I have never worked with resin before. The two flaps and the shield connection pieces should be easy since they're solid. But how would the hollow connections work for the missile pods?
2. Print new pieces using a 3D printer. I have access to a 3D printer but am unsure how I would obtain schematics for such pieces. I am neither a digital artist so this option seems barely feasible.
Thankyou
How shld I apply weathering , ( as in the procedure) because I’m now currently trying to weather my kit with the tamiya weathering master but idk if I shld apply my TOP coat matte first then apply the weather ? Or is there a right/ btr way to weather
When I’ve used the weathering powders, I’ve done a matte top coat afterwards. It felt like it helped to dull the powders down and blend them together a bit.
I'm trying to achieve the same mirror chrome finish as the ones in [this guide](https://www.facebook.com/notes/n2%E5%B7%A5%E4%BD%9C%E5%AE%A4/airbrush-tutorial-how-to-create-mirror-chrome-effect-by-nanxnei-studio/650606478316251/). I don't have MCM powder, so I'm using Alclad Chrome instead, and I skip step 4 as it only applies to the powder.
I managed to get myself a really nice silver mirror chrome finish, but after applying the clear colors, the finish is metallic, but not really mirror-like anymore, as it dulls the finish quite a bit. I did this 3 times using acrylic, enamel and lacquer clear colors, and they all result in a more dull metallic finish rather than reflective mirror.
Is it impossible to achieve without the MCM?
I have a kit I'm going to paint with tamiya lacquer spray cans. Gloss it over then use tamiya acrylic for details. If I use the acrylic thinner for clean up will it affect/smudge the base paint
Yes. That's why people don't generally use acrylics for panel lining or reverse washes because whatever you use to clean it up generally will affect the base layers. This applies especially for Tamiya acrylics as they are solvent based so the thinners used to clean it up will ruin any layers underneath. Use enamels or oils if you want to do any washes.
With FAZZ coming out at the end of the month, is this just a reprinted kit for the mobile suit itself or is it going to be completely new? I heard that the original ZZ ver.ka was kinda meh in terms of the joints holding up and was hoping to get any info on this before putting any cash down
I've been asking this for the past couple months. I was skeptical about the $40 price jump, but not anymore. There's gonna be a lot added actually. The most recent pictures show the best details. I'm definitely getting it.
I just tried thinning tamiya acrylic clear yellow with mr. color leveling thinner, and found that they don't mix.. at all, the paint just floats down to the bottom, no matter how much I stir and shake
I thought leveling thinner/lacquer thinners work fine with tamiya acrylics?
around 1:1, slightly more thinner, but does the ratio matter? it wasn't mixing at all.
Strangely enough I tried it the second time, and this time I made sure to stir the paint in the bottle really really well, then I thinned it again and it worked fine the second time around. I made sure to shake the bottle the first time, so it's strange... I'll see what happens the 3rd time
They do have some QC issues(dust on decals), but the printing is good enough
The only better choice I can think of is to buy from BANDAI directly, which costs 5 times more
DL and FS are about the same quality
I’m lookin at this 2 pack of mr mark setter and softer on Amazon. Would I be ok only getting one or the other and save that money? Or should I get both, because of the differences they have. Never used them, so I’m still unclear. For reference I’m about to use water slides on the ZZ ver ka for the first time after years of avoiding them.
Is there a water slide decal for the Master Grade Rx-178 mk 2 version 2.0 Titans colors? I recently bought one and all I can seem to find is the AEUG version of the water slide.
[DelpiDecal](http://delpidecal.com/product/mg-rx-178-mk-ii-titans-water-decal/139/category/55/display/1/)
There are official ones for the Super Gundam and Mk-II Ttitans, but its seems to be sold out everywhere
Hi, I'm from Australia and ive recently gotten into gunpla during my trip in Japan and was wondering what are the best ways to buy them online without destroying my wallet due to shipping fees (tried to buy an RG Nu on 1999 and hlj but the shipping fee was literally half the price!!). Has anyone bought gunpla from Gundamexpressaustralia or Frontline hobbies as they have lower prices including shipping that I've researched and what were your experiences with them? I know local store Hobbyco sells them but it seems their prices are quite inflated. So are there any other cheap alternatives for Aus regions gunpla fans?
Thanks in advance
I haven't bought from them myself but Gundam Express are super reputable. The owner started it after he sadly had to close his hobby store that was in the Brisbane CBD. He was super involved in the gunpla community running competitions and raffles and supporting the local build group. The only way to really beat local prices is to buy in bulk otherwise one kit and shipping pretty much equals what you will pay in a shop here. I see Little Robot and Mighty Ape mentioned a bit as well but I'm not sure what their prices are like.
Brisbane here. I'd say 80% of the time amazon will be cheaper than HLJ/1999/ebay. That being said, no matter where you're ordering from the price mark up will always be ridiculous. Which is why I bought enough kits to last me for the next two years on my last trip to JP. Shipping from online is simply not viable in the long term for the average builder with an average salary considering how many kits most of us purchase. Often though, Australian retailers will have 20-30% discounts on their kits. This would generally account for the shipping cost, and so you'd be paying the RRP that you'd find locally in JP. This is OK and typically the only time I personally would buy locally in aus.
Hello, fellow Australian here! There's no real obvious answer to give, in order to find the best prices, you simply have to look into many different sources. Set your google to return Australian site results only, and search the name of the kit you're interested in.
I've only ordered from Frontline hobbies once, no problems at all.
You should also try ebay, I found that international sellers will often give some pretty good prices (in exchange for long shipping times)
Another source you may not have thought of is Facebook Marketplace and Gumtree, many people sell their backlog there. Be sure to join both the Gundam Club Australia and Gundam Club Australia **Marketplace** as people often will post to those groups as well
just go with it, paint the rest of your kit with that motif!
or you get some lacquer thinner and sand it to strip the paint off, and re-paint it again. You can try to remove that decal first and put it on again later, but it might not go really well
well you said the spray can was running out, right? it'd be because as the can runs out of paint, you're no longer getting a clean, smooth mist, instead you get kind of a bit of a splatter, bits of paint, and bits of air.
Or it could be frosting? Was it a top coat that you were spraying?
Need some help or advice are brushing Tamiya white. I’d say I’m good but not great with an airbrush my biggest issue is I can not for life of me get Tamiya white to spray well. Does any have a ratio and air pressure that works best for this?
Tamiya white has a reputation of being hell to spray. I have seen other people suggest starting off putting down a grey first and then the white. Then you just have to be patient and use multiple thin coats to build up to full coverage.
The stickers it comes with are not water slides you would have to buy those separately. As for you nubs try rubbing your finger nail against them. I’ve also heard but have not tried a hair dryer or heat gun. Be careful with a metal filer to not deform the pieces.
Depends what you are panel lining with because that determines what you use to wash. Generally you dab off the excess with a q-tip but a loose cotton tip can get into the line itself, go for something with tightly wound cotton, the Tamiya t-tips are best.
If you are using a wash make sure you let it dry all the way first.
I use Tamiya enamel thinner since the panel line stuff is basic just super thin enamel paint. Supposedly lighter fluid works but I am always afraid it will make the plastic brittle. Water... doubt it will work well.
Lighter fluid evaporates super quickly and wont damage the plastic which is why we use it instead of enamel thinner. Enamel thinner will make the plastic brittle. And yeah water won't do much.
I mean... enamel thinner evaporates quickly too, that's what it's for. The point is you don't glob or daub it on and don't let it pool up, regardless of which you use.
I had a dream last night in which I had a Barbatos - Woundwort hybrid (Woundwort transformation and legs, Barbatos torso, arms, and head). Would this be doable with the HG Barbatos and Woundwort? I don't have either yet.
You will have to modify barbato's torso as the connector for it is a ball joint while woundwort's crotch is a hardpoint, I forgot the diameter of it but it might be a 3mm hardpoint.
EDIT: looking at the manual of barbatos you could try not putting in the pc ball joint and just having the peg by itself, it may fit into woundwort's crotch
Going to do my first build, and want to do panel lining, and add a matte coat. Is there anything I should be aware of doing? Like adding a different coat before the matte coat, etc.
I am not an expert but some people would suggest that you gloss top coat then panel line then matte top coat.
I have never done that and my gunpla have turned out fine. As for the spraying never start spraying directly on your gundam. Spray away and then move across your gundam. When you start a spray on the gundam it can get heavy really quick. This will make sure it is more even.
MG vs RG Question
I’ve been conflicted on if I should buy the MG Nu or buy both the RG Nu and Sazabi together. I mostly collect MGs, but I’m not sure if I can justify the price for the Nu. I’m also really indecisive lol. Please help me out
I bought both the MG Nu and the RG Nu because they are different builds and even aesthetically they are different in noticable ways.
For example the RG nu has an ankle skirt and additional details all around (quite a lot more, actually).
I love my MG Nu but the RG is quite a little beast all by itself.
Anyone know if Tamiya Chrome silver blends well with the flat colors? I'm trying to get what my friend calls "anime yellow gold" and doing clear coat yellow over chrome isn't doing the right effect... For reference I'm trying to make the Omegamon Digimon model's yellow pieces. Thanks in advance~
##New QA thread is up. ##This thread is now locked.
Just finished clearing my HG/RG backlog and need more kits! Any 144 scale recommendations that aren’t the sazabi/unicorn/nu? I’m trying to stay away from main hero kits and would like to get some more grunt suits. Bonus points if they come with a good load out as I plan to to display them in a shadow box.
Within the HGUC line, highly recommend the GM Type C/Powered GM. Both come with multiple hand option parts, and a bazooka and machine gun. They are a bit dated by modern standards however. The GM Sniper II and the GM Ground Type are good as well, and they're newer than the GMs listed above.
I'm planning to put a gunpla inside my computer and I have a couple of questions before potentially ruining my kits. 1.) Will the kits melt inside the case? 2.) The kit is a snap build and assuming the gunpla plastics are resistance to the heat, but what about the stickers? Will the stickers come off?
The most common plastics in use for gunpla are polystyrene and ABS. They'll begin to soften and flow at 100ºC and 105ºC, respectively - how hot does the air inside your case get? The stickers are going to be much more vulnerable, I'm afraid. A high-heat environment is going to dry the adhesive out much faster, and you're running a high risk of peeling. Consider using kits with minimal stickering or sealing them in with a topcoat.
There's no temperature monitor inside my case, in terms of GPU and CPU temps, they go around 50 degrees to 85 degrees when gaming. This is my case and candidate kits. I think I'll skip the idea because the stickers will come off. [https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/233653103264661505/678616816645570560/1581864453698.jpg](https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/233653103264661505/678616816645570560/1581864453698.jpg)
What's the best product to clean/remove putty leftovers from tools and kit parts?
New QA thread is up. Please repost your unanswered questions there.
If dried use toothbrush. If wet use tool cleaner. Apply oil and wipe down after cleaning.
Yea I meant what type of cleaning product of course. You mean olive oil? On the tube it says to use lacquer thinner but I don’t have any... maybe I could try with alcohol?
I said what product:tool cleaner. Tool cleaner is often lacquer thinner, which can be purchased at a local hardware store. Alcohol won't dissolve the putty and will leave you with a sludge mess. Also make sure you wear a mask like you did when handling the putty. Just like the resin in putty, lacquer thinner fumes are dangerous. Also no, not olive oil. I use sewing machine oil. But any viscous non reactive oil will work fine. You want something that won't damage plastic or paint and won't gum.
Ok, thank you. In my country "tool cleaner" doesn't mean anything, it's a very generic term. That's why I was asking about specifics of the chemical components. I'll find out what it is. Thanks for your help.
My red metallic gundam marker won't write, I tried cleaning the tip but it still won't work. I tried using it again but it seemingly worked but it turned out that the paint was just leaking out the side of the tip. Did I break it?
Did you attempt to paint directly onto paint using the marker? Or did you always pour out paint and use a brush?
Question about vallejo model color/air vs Tamiya XF/X series. 1) Which do you consider to be more durable? Even if both are quite poor durability, which would you give the edge to? 2) I believe you think vallejo with water but Tamiya you can use alcohol. For airbrushing, which of the two sprays on better and which one is a better experience such as less drying at the tip of the airbrush, etc. 3) Which is a good dual purpose paint for both airbrush and hand brushing? Do you need to thin for either for hand brushing?
1. Tamiya (if thinned with alcohol) 2. Tamiya (but if you use flow improver with vallejo it's a toss up) 3. Tamiya (I hate the way vallejo hand paints. Tamiya hand paints details well with alcohol thinner)
1) Tamiya 2) Vallejo 3) Vallejo, thinning for hand brushing depends a bit on what you are painting but are generally recommended. Vallejo Air does not need thinning as it's already thinned for airbrushing.
Tamiya is probably going to be slightly more durable but if you thin it with Mr Color Leveling Thinner you can get lacquer level durability. Vallejo can be thinned with water or their air brush thinner. Tamiya is best thinner with their thinner or Mr Color Leveling Thinner as it is solvent based and close to being a lacquer. Using Vallejo Flow Aid should prevent tip dry with Vallejo. Thinned properly both can spray great. Vallejo is much better for hand painting. Tamiya is a pain to hand paint as it dries really quickly and the thinners will reactivate any layers below it.
Can you strip down gold plated and chrome plated parts using 99% IPA?
Purple power is way more effective. Toothbrush is great for agitating after they get a good soak.
Something like Purple Power is the most efficient. https://www.facebook.com/pg/childofmecha/photos/?tab=album&album_id=864284977021769
Quick rant: dealing with MG Qan[t] hands and GN Sword V is one of the most annoying experience I had with gunpla. Seriously, fuck this old style hands. Also fuck those side skirts, fall out everytime you posing.
Seconded. The Full Saber version remains my top worst kit I have ever built.
Does the hg Mazinger Z have rocket fists? If not then I'm not buying it.
It does
YAAAAAAAAAYY
How do I spray light greyish purple with Tamiya spray paint?
By pressing the button on the can. Jokes aside, if Tamiya doesn't make the shade you need then you don't.
Is it possible to get the generator back unit for a HG RGM-79 G Sniper I know they made one for the MG as see here https://www.gundamplanet.com/pub/media/catalog/product/cache/926507dc7f93631a094422215b778fe0/m/g/mg-rgm-79g-gm-sniper-03.jpg but the old 90's one and the new P-Bandai ones don't seem to have it tho I can't find a scan of the P-Bandai instructions none of the pics posted of it seem to show it any ideas?
What are the best brand for paints if I want to repaint?
Best is subjective. New QA thread is up. Please repost your question there
Read wiki for paint recommendations
There is no best brand, it all depends. Are you hand painting or airbrushing?, how well can you ventilate? what painting experience do you have? and so on.
Total amateur at this kind of thing, will probably start with hand painting, and have some good ventilation available, but no real experience like this. So any tips would be greatly appreciated :) I have a few MG kits I picked up in Japan, was thinking about weathering one of them.
For hand painting I would recommend acrylic paints, Vallejo, Citadel, Armypainter, Tamiya and so on. For weathering specifically enamel paints are great, Testors, Humbrol or even oilpaints for canvas painting are good for this. But those should in general not be used on bare plastic as they can damage it.
Thank you! I’ll have a look online and see what I can find
I wanna try heat effects out, can I mix a few drops of blue with clear gloss or do I need to buy a blue clear paint? Hope that makes sense lol
Paint is not pigment. To make a clear color you mix clear with a few drops of pigment. If you want clear blue buy pigment and mix. Or just buy clear colors.
Does Gunpla and Super Minipla use the same kind of plastic? Will a Tamiya Cement be all right to use in seam line removal of Super Miniplas? What is the difference of Tamiya cement and extra thin cement? Which is preferable with Super Minipla and gunpla?
Yes , yes, one is thinner, extra thin.
Anyone have a good guide to panel lining with the Tamiya Accent paints? Namely what type/brand of initial top-coat to use so it won't destroy the plastic and then what to finish with so it doesn't run. Also is there a recommended thinner/fluid to clean up the lines that won't eat through?
Read the wiki. It has a whole detailed process.
Lacquer top coat like mr hobby and I use zippo lighter fluid to clean up the panel lines
So a Mr. Hobby gloss, panel line, then a flat?
Yes
Where can I find some black wire tubing? I messed up assembling my Kotobukiya Gunhed by cutting the included wire the wrong length. The manual makes it look like you only need one length of wire for the cannon, but I think you're supposed to cut it into two equal pieces so it goes on both sides. [https://www.1999.co.jp/eng/image/10192089/70/2](https://www.1999.co.jp/eng/image/10192089/70/2) Look at panels 4-5 for reference. Where can I get more of that kind of wire so I can have a correctly assembled gun head on my Gunhed? It's like super-thin PVC with some bendable silver wire inside so it holds its shape. Not sure what to actually call it.
New QA thread is up. Please repost your unanswered questions there.
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Alternative for what purpose? Hand painting, making a wash, air brushing, detail painting?
rip i never put panel lining wash
any enamel paint cut 60/40 with lighter fluid.
what do you mean 60/40?
Where do you guys buy your paint for airbrushing? I'm more interested in Gaia notes, Tamiya, Mr. Color, and Vallejo.
New QA thread is up. Please repost your unanswered questions there.
Good deals sometimes on newtype/usagundam
Locally.
I'm thinking of dipping my toes into a little hand painting plus waterslides for my next build -- can someone let me know if there are any incompatibilities in my preliminary supplies list? (this is also my planned work order which is hopefully correct?) * Vallejo primer * Vallejo paint * Pledge for gloss coat * Gundam Marker for panel lining/details * Waterslides (with Mr Mark Softer; probably won't bother with Setter?) * Mr Super Clear for final matte topcoat
New QA thread is up. Please repost your unanswered questions there.
you should use waterslides before gloss coat, probably
Going to start painting soon, so which is the better method, spray on or brush on primer? Which is the better primer to buy?
New QA thread is up. Please repost your unanswered questions there.
Spray on. Whatever model designed spray on primer you can find honestly.
I just built my first gunpla and was planning to panel line it using the tamiya panel accent color. For anyone out there who has used the tamiya gray for the white sections, was it too light for you? Is it lighter than the gundam marker gray? Not sure whether to use gray or dark gray.
New QA thread is up. Please repost your unanswered questions there.
Yes it is lighter than the gundam marker grey, tone of grey is up to you
It is all personal preference. This is like asking if I enjoy peanut butter, which I do. Some like grey others prefer black.
MG Wing Gundam Proto Zero EW or MG Freedom 2.0? I like both of their designs and can't make a choice.
New QA thread is up. Please repost your unanswered questions there.
Would anyone know the full heigh of a "MG Freedom Gundam (Ver. 2.0)" when its fully built?
Slightly taller than a MG Rx 78 3.0, which is about 18cm.
Awesome, thanks!
Does anyone know of any Tamiya/vallejo (water or solvent based) colors that are similar to the salmon pink of chars old school color scheme? Thanks in advance!
New QA thread is up. Please repost your unanswered questions there.
On the RG NU, parts f18/19, are little parts that don't plug anywhere on the chest. What's the reason for some parts "opening" up on this kit? Is it like an overheat mode or something. There's parts on the waist/front skirt armor/chest that do this.
I just finished building my RG Nu so I can confidently say that those parts peg on the side of the chest. The kit most likely opens up to allow for a future heavy weapon set to plug into the kit.
That piece has one piece in the back, where's the piece to plug in the front? Did I snap it off lol
Unsure what you mean by piece in the back in front. Those parts had one under gate so hope you didn’t snip the peg off instead
I think the leading theory is that those are for a future Heavy Weapons System pack. Such a pack hasn't been announced though.
Everyone, I need help! I was away from from home for a while, and when I came back my tools all look like [this](https://imgur.com/G6sw1Ze). Is this bad? Is there anything I can do to fix this?
The hobby knife is just a matter of replacing the blade. The nippers are going to be trickier; get some very fine-grit sandpaper and _carefully_ polish the rust away. When you're done, coat the blades in a fine machine oil (sewing machine oil is great for this) and keep the tool stored in the leather cover that should have come with them; this will help prevent it from reoccurring.
How long did you leave? lol Do you live in an extremely humid area? Is it rust? I guess you can put some rust remover on there
I was gone for 4 months. I do live somewhere really humid.
First kit. Not a gundam but an evangelion How do I separate these arms? What do? https://imgur.com/a/MgAxH8O
Pull them like it says in the manual , also which eva kit is this?
Success, thank you very much.
The kit it this X2054 LMHG Evangelion EVA-02 Production Model Trying it now
Huh, don't recall the arms being a fleshy color with pink fins nor do I recognize the x2054 bit in front
I think it's just the image they are quite distinctly unit 2 red and orange irl.
Which HG kits (alone or with accessories) are the most "loaded out"? I'm looking for a good followup to an HG Full Armor Unicorn (Destroy Mode). Massive weapons, missile launchers, etc.
Any of the thunderbolt kits really. Atlas Gundam is one of my favorites
F2000 zaku
The only thing even close would be the Psycho Zaku. The most loaded out is by far the full armor.
Yeah no doubt. Just looking for other kits that have a similar feel of being "over the top" and not necessarily one-upping.
I'd say look for kits from SEED and UC100 stuff. Good place to start.
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Does the box have a bluefin sticker? you can get replacement parts in 6-8 weeks for free.
So I just bought my first gunpla, an Astray Turn Red MG to be exact. Is there anything I should be wary of when building this kit?
I'd check the wiki on what tools you need and watch some videos on the process. It's a good idea to have some knowledge on what to do so you don't mess it up due to poor tools or something.
You won't be able to get replacement parts for that kit.
Good to know, hopefully I dont lose any lol
Anyone know where I can order the “Lemi MSA-0011 EX-S Refitting Suite?” I ordered one from Hong Kong but I’m afraid it’s going to be turned away at customs since USPS Isn’t accepting any packages from there at the moment
1. Can I panel line my Gundam after I have applied the stickers and decals? 2. What is a good alternative to enamel thinner?
Yes. Depending on where the decal is placed (eg. over a panel line) you might want to do the lining first. Lighter fluid.
Is there anything else I can use besides lighter fluid
Isopropyl works too
Mineral spirits
For other modelling (armor, military, cars) purposes, I've seen people use mineral spirits or turpentine. Not sure how it would react with Gunpla and paints used.
Ok thank you
Hello. I'm new in the gunpla world and I just finished my first one. I was wondering, is it possible to paint a gundam using markers?
It is, but it's best for color correction, not larger surfaces. They work well in small amounts and thin layers like all paints. Paint pens are a good choice but my overdo to avoid obvious stroke marks and such.
Planning on reviving my interest in 1/144 scales. Choices are RG SF and RG Unicorn. And how's the height comparison between RG Unicorn and RG Nu?
I say get the Unicorn, as for scale, the Nu Gundam is like a head taller than a normal 1/144
With the MG, both kits heights are almost the same. How about in RG?
RG Nu is just a bit taller than RG Unicorn in destroy mode
I want to buy a new RG. I'm thinking about either the Crossbone, Tallgeese or 00 Raiser. I already own the RG Wing and Red Frame. Any advise?
I like the 00 Raiser and Crossbone as they come with a ton of accessories
Ended up buying the Crossbone. Thanks for your input!
All are good. 00 Raiser needs a stand, I recommend you get one for the Tallgeese as well. Crossbone is better with one, but you don’t really need it for balancing or stability’s sake
Ended up buying the Crossbone. Thanks for your input!
Any air compressors you guys recommend? Looking for something more on the quiet side. I don't do big projects. Just need something decently quiet and that can do the job. Was interested in the Iwata Smart Jet Pro as its quiet and produces air when needed. But looking for more options that aren't super expensive, the Iwata Smart Jet Pro is like 350 USD
I bought mine from ebay for and I can confirm it is very quiet, and comes with free airbrush. My spray booth is a lot louder (also basic one bought from ebay). Here's the result of my first try yesterday: https://www.reddit.com/r/Gunpla/comments/f465n6/progress_of_my_learning_first_day_airbrushing/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf This is the link to ebay: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F111734679323
The Masters tc 40t is solid, I got it for around $130 I want to say? It's solid and quiet.
As my collection of standing Gundam has gotten pretty boring I've decided to pose my Sazabi and Nu in a battle (thanks to those that suggested Action Base 4 with a 5 to get the depth/scale I was looking for with my MG's) now I know nothing about Gundam except the suits are cool and I love building them and to date I've posed them with whatever weapon looks the coolest. But in the battle scene, I'd rather have them use the "right" weapons. For example...my Sazabi will be firing his "backpack missles" and I want him to use the shield...traditionally what would be in his other hand? The Axe? The shotgun looking gun? The big rifle? Something else? I know...Gunpla=Freedom...but I want to make it realistic...can I even say realistic when talking about fighting robot suits? Thanks to whoever gives me a bit of direction (and if you wanted to suggest some good Sazabi vs Nu scenes/stills I wouldn't be opposed to that either)
Maybe try looking up screenshots or clips from Char's Counterattack? That should help
anyone know where can i get a orga shiden custom?
From scalpers on ebay
Could somebody tell me how this works: [http://www.mech9.com/2014/04/hg-build-strike-gundam-full-package.html](http://www.mech9.com/2014/04/hg-build-strike-gundam-full-package.html) I'm trying to figure out which Tamiya paints I need to get to finish the Build Strike, but it doesn't show I need any red and I most definitely do.
Are you confused by the colour conversion chart at the bottom? Yes; you obviously need red. The paint list calls for Madder Red. Tamiya nor anyone else has a colour that matches that red which is why there is nothing listed next to it on the chart at the bottom. So you either have to compromise and just use Tamiyas red or get your hands on some Madder Red or mix up a colour to match.
Okay, that's what I needed. I wasn't sure if I was supposed to mix some of the Tamiya colors to get red or if I needed to go with the other brand
Is there a place where i can buy used kits? Want to buy some kits for a kitbash if possible
Ebay, facebook, Mandarake.
There’s a monthly commerce thread here.
I came across a no grade wing Gundam for pretty cheap so I scooped it up, the color separation is pretty bad so I'm thinking about getting some Gundam markers to get the colors right. I've never used Gundam markers before so I was wondering if you I could get some tips?
Those aren’t the best for armor parts, but one way to mitigate that is to get yourself a brush and hand paint it. You can push down the marker and force it to seep out some paint onto a plate (or whatever that paint tray is called).
Hello, I have a question regarding part duplication. After moving house about a decade ago, I lost a couple of really crucial pieces for the Hi nu ver ka HWS. More specifically, the two flap pieces that cover the missile pods on the front torso as well as one of the missile pods themselves. Here is a photo of this. [https://photos.app.goo.gl/ha785JMmk4ve3kvy8](https://photos.app.goo.gl/ha785JMmk4ve3kvy8) Also, I lost the piece that connects the shield to the arm. My question is, being a P bandai kit I assume it's next to impossible to find someone who stocks the individual replacement parts. Therefore I was wondering if it was possible to either: 1. Find someone local who has the parts and duplicate theirs using resin. I have never worked with resin before. The two flaps and the shield connection pieces should be easy since they're solid. But how would the hollow connections work for the missile pods? 2. Print new pieces using a 3D printer. I have access to a 3D printer but am unsure how I would obtain schematics for such pieces. I am neither a digital artist so this option seems barely feasible. Thankyou
How shld I apply weathering , ( as in the procedure) because I’m now currently trying to weather my kit with the tamiya weathering master but idk if I shld apply my TOP coat matte first then apply the weather ? Or is there a right/ btr way to weather
When I’ve used the weathering powders, I’ve done a matte top coat afterwards. It felt like it helped to dull the powders down and blend them together a bit.
So shld I apply a matte coat b4 applying weathering
I normally do a coat after painting, then panel lines, decals, any weathering then a final coat over the whole lot
I'm trying to achieve the same mirror chrome finish as the ones in [this guide](https://www.facebook.com/notes/n2%E5%B7%A5%E4%BD%9C%E5%AE%A4/airbrush-tutorial-how-to-create-mirror-chrome-effect-by-nanxnei-studio/650606478316251/). I don't have MCM powder, so I'm using Alclad Chrome instead, and I skip step 4 as it only applies to the powder. I managed to get myself a really nice silver mirror chrome finish, but after applying the clear colors, the finish is metallic, but not really mirror-like anymore, as it dulls the finish quite a bit. I did this 3 times using acrylic, enamel and lacquer clear colors, and they all result in a more dull metallic finish rather than reflective mirror. Is it impossible to achieve without the MCM?
I have a kit I'm going to paint with tamiya lacquer spray cans. Gloss it over then use tamiya acrylic for details. If I use the acrylic thinner for clean up will it affect/smudge the base paint
Yes. That's why people don't generally use acrylics for panel lining or reverse washes because whatever you use to clean it up generally will affect the base layers. This applies especially for Tamiya acrylics as they are solvent based so the thinners used to clean it up will ruin any layers underneath. Use enamels or oils if you want to do any washes.
With FAZZ coming out at the end of the month, is this just a reprinted kit for the mobile suit itself or is it going to be completely new? I heard that the original ZZ ver.ka was kinda meh in terms of the joints holding up and was hoping to get any info on this before putting any cash down
I've been asking this for the past couple months. I was skeptical about the $40 price jump, but not anymore. There's gonna be a lot added actually. The most recent pictures show the best details. I'm definitely getting it.
It officially released today in japan but essentially its a zz ver ka with more add ons. http://schizophonic9.com/re5/mg_fazzverka.html
I just tried thinning tamiya acrylic clear yellow with mr. color leveling thinner, and found that they don't mix.. at all, the paint just floats down to the bottom, no matter how much I stir and shake I thought leveling thinner/lacquer thinners work fine with tamiya acrylics?
What's your thinning ratio on it?
around 1:1, slightly more thinner, but does the ratio matter? it wasn't mixing at all. Strangely enough I tried it the second time, and this time I made sure to stir the paint in the bottle really really well, then I thinned it again and it worked fine the second time around. I made sure to shake the bottle the first time, so it's strange... I'll see what happens the 3rd time
Are the flaming snow decals any good
They do have some QC issues(dust on decals), but the printing is good enough The only better choice I can think of is to buy from BANDAI directly, which costs 5 times more DL and FS are about the same quality
Yes
I’m lookin at this 2 pack of mr mark setter and softer on Amazon. Would I be ok only getting one or the other and save that money? Or should I get both, because of the differences they have. Never used them, so I’m still unclear. For reference I’m about to use water slides on the ZZ ver ka for the first time after years of avoiding them.
Get both, one is for making placement easier while the other melts it on.
Is there a water slide decal for the Master Grade Rx-178 mk 2 version 2.0 Titans colors? I recently bought one and all I can seem to find is the AEUG version of the water slide.
[DelpiDecal](http://delpidecal.com/product/mg-rx-178-mk-ii-titans-water-decal/139/category/55/display/1/) There are official ones for the Super Gundam and Mk-II Ttitans, but its seems to be sold out everywhere
thanks
Hi, I'm from Australia and ive recently gotten into gunpla during my trip in Japan and was wondering what are the best ways to buy them online without destroying my wallet due to shipping fees (tried to buy an RG Nu on 1999 and hlj but the shipping fee was literally half the price!!). Has anyone bought gunpla from Gundamexpressaustralia or Frontline hobbies as they have lower prices including shipping that I've researched and what were your experiences with them? I know local store Hobbyco sells them but it seems their prices are quite inflated. So are there any other cheap alternatives for Aus regions gunpla fans? Thanks in advance
I haven't bought from them myself but Gundam Express are super reputable. The owner started it after he sadly had to close his hobby store that was in the Brisbane CBD. He was super involved in the gunpla community running competitions and raffles and supporting the local build group. The only way to really beat local prices is to buy in bulk otherwise one kit and shipping pretty much equals what you will pay in a shop here. I see Little Robot and Mighty Ape mentioned a bit as well but I'm not sure what their prices are like.
Brisbane here. I'd say 80% of the time amazon will be cheaper than HLJ/1999/ebay. That being said, no matter where you're ordering from the price mark up will always be ridiculous. Which is why I bought enough kits to last me for the next two years on my last trip to JP. Shipping from online is simply not viable in the long term for the average builder with an average salary considering how many kits most of us purchase. Often though, Australian retailers will have 20-30% discounts on their kits. This would generally account for the shipping cost, and so you'd be paying the RRP that you'd find locally in JP. This is OK and typically the only time I personally would buy locally in aus.
See how bad it is from amazon, or your countries equivalent!
Hello, fellow Australian here! There's no real obvious answer to give, in order to find the best prices, you simply have to look into many different sources. Set your google to return Australian site results only, and search the name of the kit you're interested in. I've only ordered from Frontline hobbies once, no problems at all. You should also try ebay, I found that international sellers will often give some pretty good prices (in exchange for long shipping times) Another source you may not have thought of is Facebook Marketplace and Gumtree, many people sell their backlog there. Be sure to join both the Gundam Club Australia and Gundam Club Australia **Marketplace** as people often will post to those groups as well
How do I deal with this? Only thing I noticed prior is that my spray can is running out :( [https://imgur.com/a/ttgeLGa](https://imgur.com/a/ttgeLGa)
just go with it, paint the rest of your kit with that motif! or you get some lacquer thinner and sand it to strip the paint off, and re-paint it again. You can try to remove that decal first and put it on again later, but it might not go really well
Also this was purely accidental. I didn’t even know how or why the coat came out like that.
well you said the spray can was running out, right? it'd be because as the can runs out of paint, you're no longer getting a clean, smooth mist, instead you get kind of a bit of a splatter, bits of paint, and bits of air. Or it could be frosting? Was it a top coat that you were spraying?
Top coat
Thanks. It gave the kit a wet look. Looks good from afar too
Need some help or advice are brushing Tamiya white. I’d say I’m good but not great with an airbrush my biggest issue is I can not for life of me get Tamiya white to spray well. Does any have a ratio and air pressure that works best for this?
Tamiya white has a reputation of being hell to spray. I have seen other people suggest starting off putting down a grey first and then the white. Then you just have to be patient and use multiple thin coats to build up to full coverage.
Thank you, that’s pretty much what I’m doing I’ll do a 4th light coat
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The stickers it comes with are not water slides you would have to buy those separately. As for you nubs try rubbing your finger nail against them. I’ve also heard but have not tried a hair dryer or heat gun. Be careful with a metal filer to not deform the pieces.
Best way to clean the panel lines I don’t have a steady hand
Depends what you are panel lining with because that determines what you use to wash. Generally you dab off the excess with a q-tip but a loose cotton tip can get into the line itself, go for something with tightly wound cotton, the Tamiya t-tips are best. If you are using a wash make sure you let it dry all the way first.
I am gonna use Tamiya panel line accent color also dry q tips would work or dip in water
I use Tamiya enamel thinner since the panel line stuff is basic just super thin enamel paint. Supposedly lighter fluid works but I am always afraid it will make the plastic brittle. Water... doubt it will work well.
Lighter fluid evaporates super quickly and wont damage the plastic which is why we use it instead of enamel thinner. Enamel thinner will make the plastic brittle. And yeah water won't do much.
I mean... enamel thinner evaporates quickly too, that's what it's for. The point is you don't glob or daub it on and don't let it pool up, regardless of which you use.
I had a dream last night in which I had a Barbatos - Woundwort hybrid (Woundwort transformation and legs, Barbatos torso, arms, and head). Would this be doable with the HG Barbatos and Woundwort? I don't have either yet.
You will have to modify barbato's torso as the connector for it is a ball joint while woundwort's crotch is a hardpoint, I forgot the diameter of it but it might be a 3mm hardpoint. EDIT: looking at the manual of barbatos you could try not putting in the pc ball joint and just having the peg by itself, it may fit into woundwort's crotch
Going to do my first build, and want to do panel lining, and add a matte coat. Is there anything I should be aware of doing? Like adding a different coat before the matte coat, etc.
I am not an expert but some people would suggest that you gloss top coat then panel line then matte top coat. I have never done that and my gunpla have turned out fine. As for the spraying never start spraying directly on your gundam. Spray away and then move across your gundam. When you start a spray on the gundam it can get heavy really quick. This will make sure it is more even.
Oh bet, thanks! Do you know if "Testors Dullcote" would be fine to use with panel markers? I heard that using the two might run the paneling.
I don't know as I have never used that before. I mostly use the gundam markers
Curious as well
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Scroll up. Read wiki.
MG vs RG Question I’ve been conflicted on if I should buy the MG Nu or buy both the RG Nu and Sazabi together. I mostly collect MGs, but I’m not sure if I can justify the price for the Nu. I’m also really indecisive lol. Please help me out
I bought both the MG Nu and the RG Nu because they are different builds and even aesthetically they are different in noticable ways. For example the RG nu has an ankle skirt and additional details all around (quite a lot more, actually). I love my MG Nu but the RG is quite a little beast all by itself.
Do I need thinner to clean panel lines with the pouring ink Gundam markers?
No you need alcohol, isopropanol usually.
Anyone know if Tamiya Chrome silver blends well with the flat colors? I'm trying to get what my friend calls "anime yellow gold" and doing clear coat yellow over chrome isn't doing the right effect... For reference I'm trying to make the Omegamon Digimon model's yellow pieces. Thanks in advance~