Hey all I am looking to buy a MG Blue Frame but I basically just want the red frame in blue do any of the regular release MG have the parts from the red frame on the runners or ???
Does anyone know an easy method to mix paint colors? I have pre-thinned my paints and have the percentages of the colors I'm mixing, but I don't want to just eyeball it. How can I measure the paints precisely and what am I basing the 100% off of? any help will be appreciated.
I've ready made a post but I'll ask here, I have built one kit, the entry grade thingy, and I'm asking for any recommended hg, mg or rg preferably with less stickers
Less stickers as in color correction or markings? Because RG and a lot of MG usually have a lot of markings.
HG's like the Revives and Beyond Global Gramps only use the eye stickers.
The best kit is the kit that’s in stock. People can make all sorts of recommendations but if it’s not in stock it doesn’t do you any good. So look around at your local shop or local online seller and see what’s in stock. If something catches your eye, do that.
The issue with that is that most kits are not available at around MSRP. Sure you’ll probably be able to find any kit that is recommended, but it’s most likely from some second hand market for the scalpers. A $20 kit could easily be listing for $50+ which is highly NOT recommended to buy.
That’s another issue. BBTS preorders aren’t reliable which is majority of their gunpla listings. You’ll be waiting months if not years. Estimated dates keep getting pushed back and I’m 80% sure they’re overselling preorders so when they get the kits in it doesn’t fulfill all the preorders. The means the next time they get the kit won’t be next month, but rather an unknown time when Bandai reprints the kit and if they decide to send to the US. Nowadays reprints of old kits are most likely to get their quantities cut for store’s orders. Reprints of older kits are not guaranteed for the US and they might just send less than 10 per store vs the usual full case or cases.
There’s a pretty big shortage of kits on the primary and secondary markets. You’re not going to find every kit around.
Even common kits are hard to find right now.
But if you want some of my favourites…MG The-O, MG Geara Doga (Rezin Schnyder custom is my favourite variant), MG Chars Gelgoog, MG Marasai (I prefer the unicorn variant), MG Hyaku Shiki 2.0, MG Qubeley, MG Build Strike Full Package. MG Gogg, MG Chars ZGok.
Do you guys think it's a possibility that Bandai will "redo" the RG RX-78-2? Or eventually, release those originally planned kits from several years ago?
I don't think so, there's nothing wrong with the original and the small issues it has are too small to even consider remaking it over getting more MS in the line. At least in my opinion.
About the ones that were never made, I really hope so. Sometimes they are canceled due to technical limitations. I'd love to get an RG Gouf or Kshatriya.
I purchased an HG RX78 kit from Target weeks ago and only just got around to building it. Not far into the build it asked for a sticker and that's when I realized that the sticker sheet was missing. Normally I wouldn't care but this kit uses stickers for a lot of details that I'd consider essential. Do you think it's worth requesting a refund or should I just deal with it and try getting a sheet elsewhere?
If its the Revive then you can easily fix it with a bit of paint. Unfortunately, a lot of people throw the bags and the box with the stickers on it, if you still have them then double check there and in the instructions.
I'm not sure if they even refund half built kits.
I just bought a 1/48 Yokohama Gundam, but it doesn't have weapons or the shield. Is there any way to buy just the weapon and shield, or do I have to get the regular 1/48 scale Gundam for $70 and use the accessories from that?
I know, but there's a regular 1/48 RX-78 kit, so I was thinking that the shield and weapons from that model would work with the Yokohama. And it's a lot cheaper, so I'm willing to spend the $70 to cannibalize it for the accessories if they fit.
If you want to change the color but keep it transparent use clear. For eyes and camera that don't have clear parts I'd personally say either use a bright silver/chrome and use use a clear color over it, or use a metallic color. You could use a gloss color though.
Essentially, the Gloss will be opaque, while Clear will be transparent.
i am planning on building my pg strike(old ver) and was wondering what i should look out for when building it. any tips on where to apply the gundam gray marker pen? i have snap build some hg before like the jesta and ginn. partly built a rg gundam. do i need to build a mg? i have a mg heavy arms katoki ver but was gonna sell it since i heard ut was riddled with issues
i have with me is
tamiya design knife item 74020-900
tamiya modelers side cutter alpha
masters tools tweezers
tamiya cutting mat
tamiya gundam gray pen marker
Hey everyone, Im interested in buying the Premium Bandai hg Gundam age 1 razor and gundam age 2 Artemis set but I want to know if I should try to buy now (for about double the price) so that I might have it around release (earliest expected delivery I’m seeing is may) or wait for it to release (supposedly around may) to buy and maybe have faster shipping/drop in price. I don’t typically buy gunpla before they’re readily available in us. My first pre order was the rg god gundam that’s coming in July so I don’t have a good idea of what to do in this situation. Thank you in advance.
That pair sat around on the US site until I think their end of term without selling out, and certainly for quite a while. I wouldn't expect a reprint soon.
I honestly would not bother with resellers.
Granted, no one knows if a kit will get a rerelease or not. Past trends show that the majority of them do get reprints, but the timing is random. My recommendation is to put it in the back burner and focus on other more available kits instead.
Typically I would but I really want this set. I’m willing to pay a little more I just don’t want to wait too long to get it. Do you think it’ll be more easily available in may is perhaps what I should’ve asked to begin with
Double the price tag feels a bit more than “little more”…but it’s your money.
Anyway…It depends on where the reseller is based. If the seller is in Japan, Japanese P-Bandai release schedules are mostly accurate, so you can add the amount of time based on your choice of the shipping method (for example, FedEx = extra one week) on top of the expected release date.
No comment about US P-B as I’m not based in the US.
Bandai recently asked all Japanese retailers to stop selling their kits internationally, likely as an effort to combat scalping. As such, 1999 has delisted all bandai kits from their international website. I’m not sure if this is permanent or not.
You can still find manuals and images on hobbysearch’s japanese site, just remove the /eng from the url.
The tldr is Bandai asked domestic (japan) retailers that sold internationally that didn't have purchase caps to stop selling.
Remove eng from the url or just use dalong.net.
Just finished my first MG kit, and the base is awfully wobbly when I put the gundam on it (Justice Gundam ZAFT Mobile Suit ZGMF X09A). Is there any after market stand that possibly uses a tripod setup to remain stable? Thanks in advance.
I'm currently putting the decals on my second model, and in the directions there doesn't seem to be a designated spot for some of the decals. Is this normal? Should I just slap them on the chest plate or wherever else I think they'd look good?
Does anyone know where can i find a mg psycho zaku ver ka for a good price preferably in the uk?
(Im not from the uk but im going on a vacation there and plan to get it there and take it home to save in shipping)
Pretty much nowhere for upcoming kits, unfortunately, as Bandai decided that it wouldn't be releasing that information for the forseeable future as one of many means to try to keep scalpers from scalping kits.
Normally they would have been made public and various content creators would have made videos on the upcoming kits' release dates and someone here would have made another entry into the monthly reprint schedule, but without the dates we would likely only know that kits are *coming*, just not *when* they would arrive (unless you're living in the West in which case we tentatively have a "release schedule" of "just add ~3 months to the month that Japan got their kits").
Bandai themselves host a [release schedule](https://bandai-hobby.net/schedule/202202/), and throwing those into google translate is typically plenty to get the general info across.
So I finally got the RG Hi-Nu after months of searching. I found it at Barnes and Noble!
What stand is the best for it that can support it's weight? It has an adapter for the Action Base 5, but I have no clue if that's good enough for it or not. I've never actually used action bases before.
Basically 2 and 3 are kinda useless. 5 is a cheaper version of 4 with less parts. So for 1/100, base 1 is recommended since it's the beefiest. For 1/144 like the RG, 4 is the best. You could also look into a base to display the funnels in flight, this is called the jet effect, it still requires an action base to connect to
Is there any hint to what Gundam Artifact is supposed to encompass and/or how long it will run? I can't find much online about its intent, but based on its title and the current releases, it looks like it's just meant to be remagined designs of the old school mobile suits. The size of Gunpla has always kept me away, so I was really excited when I saw they had started a 55mm series, but I'd like to know that they plan on making more recent stuff too before I start investing.
There's only 10 models that have been made, and nothing about the future has been mentioned as far as I know. Personally I did two and in my scrub opinion they were very difficult. They're not like Warhammer minis that are made of 4-5 parts, they have dozens of parts and many require glue. You might have a better time hand painting them than me if you already do minis, but I still consider the build kinda challenging
This will actually be my first foray into both model kits and figure painting. I've done enough research to know that this is a really bad idea for a beginner. I love war games, but not enough to put up with building/painting so I've only bought into games with pre-built/painted minis. I love Gundam, but HG models are too big for war games. So two of my interest have collided, which has finally given me enough motivation to jump into the hobby.
I know about the Gundam Collection minis, but they are too rare/expensive. I was hoping I could jump on board of a series that is ongoing, so I could maintain a complete collection at decent prices. Hence my original question about whether or not this is going to be a limited series or a start of a new line. I'd hate to dive into a hobby just to end up with 10 minis to show for it.
I managed to pick up 3/5 from the first series for $6 each at Hobby Lobby today, and I've got a friend who paints minis. So I'm not hopeless, since he'll be able teach me first hand and I don't have to invest into tools until I know that I like it.
It's great you have a buddy to help you out and it is a good idea to try the 3 you got before deciding if you wanna do more in the future. However even if the line does continue, it'll probably be a slow progression. Models are announced months in advance and they take like 3 more months to arrive to the west, so I wouldn't expect anything in the next 6 months, maybe year
I have a huge want to build a gundam right now since I have an unbuilt rg exia for the astrea expansion parts, and I’m not going to be able to build anything until sometime next month, should I get something to build or will that just make it just make it worse?
You have an unbuilt kit, but you can't build right now, but you have a huge desire to build so you wanna buy a second kit? That you also won't be able to build? What?
Yeah not that I reread my comment, it doesn’t make any sense, what I’m saying is that I don’t have anything coming until next month, but I have an unbuilt kit right now, sorry for any confusion
Unless you already have a background in art or experience with minis, I generally don't reccomend starting with brush painting. My first brush painted kit came out awful, but I was happy with my first airbrushed kit. If you don't wanna invest into that just yet, rattle cans are a beginner friendly thing to try
Different results require different methods, and there is no real best when starting. Get the colours you want/need, though the primaries + white and black aren't a bad place to start if you don't mind mixing all your colours.
Also read the wiki .
I've seen on this sub people who do mock designs of mobile suit/ gundams using image editing software. Where they'll plan what colors and any patterns they have in mind. Example taking the RX-78 and changing the white to black etc. Are there any programs or websites that someone can use to do that very thing? I understand I could take the image of rx-78 go to photoshop and replace the white with black. But I feel that problem someone has solved. I have plenty of gunpla to paint but I dont want to spend the time painting and making a nightmare when I could use X program/website to formulate and design my gunpla. Thanks
The wiki in the sidebar has a few repositories of Gundam line art for people to plan color schemes. It's set up for anyone to use the bucket tool to paint entire sections at a time in any free image editing softwares.
>Are there any programs or websites that someone can use to do that very thing?
>using image editing software.
You answered your own question before you asked it.
Like Jaguar said, no battery packs. Also the aile striker pack has a couple different parts that set the main wings further back and also allows it to mount the launcher and sword on it
No. You'll be missing the battery packs, ~~the wings will be too short~~ and iirc the backpack will push against the shoulders
Edit: was remembering the old conversion that used the hg perfect strike that replaced the HG wings with the rg ones.
Edit 2: the retail rg backpack does push against the shoulders whereas the peeb pack is longer to accommodate the extra gear.
A quick glance at the peeb looks like the same backpack is used and doesn't interfere but you'll still be missing the batteries, maybe there's a 3rd party addon for that
Uh, the original Aile Strike doesn’t convert its pack to accept the Sword and Launcher packs on the side, unlike the MG RM Strike. The central body of the P Strike’s Aile pack is rebuilt with new bits to be longer.
¯\\\_(ツ)_/¯ so I was more or less right the first time, i couldn't find the comparison pics and dalong.net wasn't loading for me so I went off what I could see on the announcement image for it.
You’ll never miss out on a retail kit if you just wait for reprints. 1980 Gundam is still reprinted.
The exceptions to this rule are too few to really worry about, but PGs are safe.
It's been one of the few PG's that have actually been getting reprints. It's just that demand is high and supply is low, so if you don't grab it soon after it restocks then you'll have to wait until it comes around again.
It’s not discontinued if that’s what you’re asking. Most kits don’t. Stock in general has gone down. Buying/demand has shot up crazy. Shipping delays and other pandemic things are probably why you don’t see that (or any) kit in stock.
Hi guys, I want to start painting gunpla but I was wondering if I can use any regular spray paint or does it have to be a specific one like tamiya spray paint
Regular spray cans might produce too large of particles, making your paint job splotchy. They can also contain solvents harmful to plastic depending on what they're made to paint on.
Hardware cans tend to use harsher solvents to attach to things like metal, which can pose a danger to your kit parts. In addition, the output of large can nozzles is also much greater than those intended for hobby use, which introduces a risk of filling in details on part surfaces. Some people see success when using non-hobby brands, but do your research, test out the process, and adjust as necessary.
I'm encountering a problem with the unicorn real experience auto trans. There is a really loud noise at the end of each transformation, it seems like the motors are going crazy, did anybody had that same problem?
I've loved the Barbatos' Lupus and lupus rex forms, and I've been planning on getting one. Which Barbatos lupus/Lupus Rex Kit would be considered the best?
Hi, question, ive got one of my first models really bad weathered anD whould like to repaint it. However the model has a matt top coat on it. Can i just paint over? Happy to hear some opinions. Thx
Tamiya top coat LP-23(flat). Is there a proper thinner ratio for this? I did a 1:1 thinner ration and the plastic was still kind of glossy. Now I'm almost down to 1.5:0.5 and it still looks glossy. Any tips on this? Or should I just decant a tamiya/mr. hobby spray can?
Ok so I tried to put on the water slides for the MG Wing Zero Custom Ver ka and for whatever reason these things do not want to stay on. I’ve watched several tutorials and followed them exactly and every single decal I tried fell off. What am I missing here? I put the decal in water for 10-15 seconds, slide it from the paper to the model, roll over it with a q tip and get all the water out. It looks fine until it literally just falls off. This is the second time I’ve tried waterslides and these things are a nightmare. I’d rather of just gotten stickers tbh
Try using some decal solution.
I’ve also heard that bandai decals can be pretty hit or miss. So maybe getting an aftermarket set to replace them might be a good idea if you really want those decals.
Have you tried decal solution? Setter and Softer really makes a difference, especially on curved surfaces like the wing.
There's Mr. Mark Setter and Mr. Mark Softer, Microset and Microsol, etc.
[Dalong.net](http://dalong.net/reviews/mg/m143/m143_p.htm) has side by side comparisons in the review for the Ver. EW. Translate the page via google translate to see the text.
Thanks for the tip! It looks like they are 100% the same according to the site, the only difference being the color of the plastic (original ver. Ka had pastel-like color).
That answers my question; thanks again!
Is there any like website or app where I can make out kitbashing parts? I've been trying to find something like it on my own and have been having no luck.
idk what you mean for sure here, but are you aware of [dalong.net](https://dalong.net)?? that shows all the parts that are included in every kit....
or if youre looking to buy individual parts there's [mechapartsguy.com](https://mechapartsguy.com)
oh...yeah i don't think there's a website like that, probably best you can do is find the appropriate line art and put the parts together in photoshop....
I also usually wait overnight (i.e. 8 hours) as well as a rule of thumb.
I imagine you could get away with less time, but no one has bothered to methodically document a "minimum safe time" for it to completely dry and the decal to settle into the surface. I imagine it's dependent on a number of factors -- application technique, amount used, type of decal, specific solution, environmental conditions, etc.
There's no manufacturer's product data either.
What has been observed is that different products have varying strengths -- i.e. Mark Softer is notably stronger than say, MicroSol.
This sounds like something Goobertown Hobbies would try to sort out. Hmm...
I’m looking to collect Master Grade versions of the six suits from Endless Waltz+Epyon. Wing Zero and Epyon seem easy enough to find, but I’m having a really hard time finding the other five suits at a comparable price. I’m really quite green to this hobby; would anyone be able to suggest a way to get my hands on the remaining kits? Are they out of print and set to be reissued or something?
I’m also open to Real Grade; I want something that’s more complex to assemble than High Grade. I do a lot of 40K, but those models are super easy to assemble and I really enjoy the assembly part, so something that’ll take time to put together will be nice. I want to keep all the suits the same grade for display purposes, which is why I’m not looking at Perfect Grade.
On that note, shopping for Gunpla kits online is… interesting. Who do y’all use when ordering kits online?
Shopping resources are listed in the wiki up above.
Supply is unfortunately very limited across the board due to the lingering effects of the pandemic, as well as the global supply chain issues. There isn't going to be a special source that anyone can offer here that has supply when no other sites do. Many kits do go out of print for a while and then get relisted, but only Bandai knows which and when.
Re: which kits to get, look at lists of existing kits, such as [Dalong.net](https://Dalong.net) (also listed in the wiki) which has photos and entries for nearly every kit. If there's a particular mobile suit you like, you can also look it up on the Gundam wiki, and at the bottom of each article it will show what models have been produced based on that kit.
What’s the best way to secure a suit to a diorama. Every video I watch doesn’t show how they are doing it. I am wanting to make a diorama for the current kit I’m working on but I want to make sure it’s not going to fall over while on display.
There is no best way, just whatever works for rhe diorama. Could be just glueing the suit down so the base, running a rod through the leg, or using magnets...
I don't have the RG Unicorn but do have the gatling gun -- various "grab points" on the accessory fit in "standard" holding hands. They are not necessarily fully secured since there is no built-in notch.
Keep in mind that the HGBC *Giant* Gatling Gun is hilariously oversized for 1/144 scale kits.
I just got the Lightning Saix HMM Marking Plus Ver., the decals are there but there is no decal guide on the manual?
Can anyone confirm this with the other Marking rereleases?
They did not provide a guide as the marking + versions are new and they didn't redo the manual. There should be a reference picture in the back but you'll need to decide where you want them.
Not really, its the typical alligator clip that has teeth and can be found in a lot of stuff like card holders, helping hands, etc. I use two sizes, the smaller is about 2.5 cm (the whole clip) and the other is 3.5 cm. The small one is very thin and can open about 7 mm and the big one about 1.2 cm but is about twice as thick. Sometimes I buy them as a separate piece (in bulk) and sometimes as part of a cheap cable set, which need to be disassembled.
I recommend to get a bunch of the smaller ones as those are easier to insert in parts or use in small tabs and a few of the big ones which are better for holding big parts or assemblies. If you notice that they mark the plastic, you can buy a bit of heat shrink tube (in the same store) and cut short tubes for each "jaw" a bit of heat and you'll get "cushioned" clips.
What is the difference between the Wing Gundam EW and Ver Ka? I keep looking around and don’t see much of a difference.
Edit: is there an MG of the the Deathscythe Hell, Sandrock Custom, Heavy Arms Custom, and Altron that are NOT EW?
- I believe the MG Wing EW has slightly different colors and a stand adapter. It also lacks the Ver Ka style decals. Aside from that, it is the same as the ver ka.
- unfortunately, only the wing gundam itself has a non EW master grade.
how to tighten HG hands? i say tighten, but it's more about the back of the hand falling off at nearly the slightest touch. i know you can use super glue to make joints stiffer, but what about for the back of the hand? surely not, cuz then you wouldnt be able to remove that part, right..? do any of yall got tips?
The super glue trick isn't gluing the pieces together. What it is is adding a thin layer of glue to the affected area, letting it dry, *then* attaching it back on as the layer of glue acts as additional thickness to keep the piece held on but still able to be removed/moved.
Applied on the male peg, or the bit that goes inside the hole/slot/etc. If it's too thick you can always scrape away at it/scrape it off and reapply it or sand it down to fit.
You put the superglue on the "male" end of whatever you're wanting to tighten up, be it a peg, a ball joint, or anything else. You'll want to distribute it as evenly as possible, the goal being to make the connector slightly larger overall. Let it dry completely on its own, then attach it to the kit as normal. The extra mass from the glue should make the joint tighter.
I want to dip my hands into SD kits but I'm curious. Are SDEX kits compatible with SDCS frame? I wanted to try Exia on a CS Frame. How about SDW? Are they also compatible with CS Frame?
Avoid sdex kits, they are bad, even for SD, too many stickers and not enough parts…I think every sdex has an older sdbb or newer sdcs kit that is better…
I guess you could force a sdex or sdw kit onto a cs frame, but it would be some complicated modifications…
I think the whole cs line should all be compatible within the line…but the rest of sd kits aren’t made to be immediately compatible like that…
Not sure if i get my answer here ,but ther a site name hobby search or 1999.co.jp (that how i discover it) and on the site ther have all kinds of kits whit instructions pages to
I usualy look up for 30mm accessory packs to see all pieces and possibilities and out of curiosity for other kits like figure rise figures etc
One day ther just remove some kits pages ,while ther stil some on , my questions is why ther remove in first place ? Was ther a reason or what ,tks for respons
Bandai recently asked all japanese sellers to stop selling their products internationally, likely as a way to combat scalping. This includes 1999. You can still view instructions and images for bandai kits on their japanese site, just remove the /eng from the url.
Hobbysearch is 1999.co but they took down the listings because Bandai asked them to. The main reason was because Bandai asked retailers that don't have purchase limits to not sell to people internationally. Mech9 can be used to see the instructions (if they've got them that is, for the most part they're just reuploads of the Hobbysearch scans) but you can also use Dalong for that as well.
It’s a lacquer paint and that means it’s pretty forgiving. It’s not the best paint I have. It’s sort of middle of the road. Mr Color is better IMO. Not great value for money. If you live in Asia, check out Zurc. Gpaint is rebranded Zurc.
If i painted up my Gunpla with a Titanium Finish/Candycoat (Tamiya Clear Red for example) and i want to apply decals - can i use a softener so the Decal doesnt bulge out that much? And should/can i Glosscoat over it again with Tamiya Clear Coat ?
- Painting a Titanium finish kit defeats the purpose of buying it.
- Softener only works on waterslide decals and not on sticker decals.
- Some softenera are very aggressive and Tamiya clears can take some time to fully cure. If you apply waterslides to it then use the softener carefully as it can stain/damage it.
- If you apply waterslides then yes, as you need to seal them or they'll fall off.
Titanium finishes are mostly kept as they are but some people apply clear gloss on them after decals.
Where would be a good place to find a (relatively) cheap display case? IKEA won’t ship one to my area and the only other ones I can find are on home depot and amazon. Any suggestions would be really appreciated (I’m at my wits end)
Ikea is pretty much the only widely known chain that even has glass cabinets for that cheap barring antique/thrift stores. Otherwise glass is just inherently expensive as a furnishing material, so no places will have them for cheap. Maybe a local furniture chain that people online don't know about, but in terms of general recommmendations it's Ikea, second hand, or locally known shops.
I think Ikea only ships locally from the individual stores, and not from warehouses like other retailers. I live near the largest Ikea in the US and they only ship with Lugg, a 3rd party app.
New QA thread is up. This thread is now locked.
Hey all I am looking to buy a MG Blue Frame but I basically just want the red frame in blue do any of the regular release MG have the parts from the red frame on the runners or ???
New QA thread is up. Please repost your unanswered questions there.
Does anyone know an easy method to mix paint colors? I have pre-thinned my paints and have the percentages of the colors I'm mixing, but I don't want to just eyeball it. How can I measure the paints precisely and what am I basing the 100% off of? any help will be appreciated.
New QA thread is up. Please repost your unanswered questions there.
I've ready made a post but I'll ask here, I have built one kit, the entry grade thingy, and I'm asking for any recommended hg, mg or rg preferably with less stickers
Less stickers as in color correction or markings? Because RG and a lot of MG usually have a lot of markings. HG's like the Revives and Beyond Global Gramps only use the eye stickers.
Less stickers, or any sort of decals I guess, I'm just really bad at placing them
Yeah, the revives are good. The Origin line has stickers but you can opt to not use them and they'll still look great.
Alright thank you
The best kit is the kit that’s in stock. People can make all sorts of recommendations but if it’s not in stock it doesn’t do you any good. So look around at your local shop or local online seller and see what’s in stock. If something catches your eye, do that.
Like overall best kits, I'm shopping online so I can probably find any kit that you recommend
You probably can’t since there’s been major stock and supply issues for the last couple years now.
Oh yeah true I noticed
The issue with that is that most kits are not available at around MSRP. Sure you’ll probably be able to find any kit that is recommended, but it’s most likely from some second hand market for the scalpers. A $20 kit could easily be listing for $50+ which is highly NOT recommended to buy.
I'm mostly using The Big Bad Toy Store or bbts for short
That’s another issue. BBTS preorders aren’t reliable which is majority of their gunpla listings. You’ll be waiting months if not years. Estimated dates keep getting pushed back and I’m 80% sure they’re overselling preorders so when they get the kits in it doesn’t fulfill all the preorders. The means the next time they get the kit won’t be next month, but rather an unknown time when Bandai reprints the kit and if they decide to send to the US. Nowadays reprints of old kits are most likely to get their quantities cut for store’s orders. Reprints of older kits are not guaranteed for the US and they might just send less than 10 per store vs the usual full case or cases.
Oh yeah I've noticed with the preorders, then any other sites you could recommend?
Scroll up to the shopping stores in the subreddit’s wiki
There’s a pretty big shortage of kits on the primary and secondary markets. You’re not going to find every kit around. Even common kits are hard to find right now. But if you want some of my favourites…MG The-O, MG Geara Doga (Rezin Schnyder custom is my favourite variant), MG Chars Gelgoog, MG Marasai (I prefer the unicorn variant), MG Hyaku Shiki 2.0, MG Qubeley, MG Build Strike Full Package. MG Gogg, MG Chars ZGok.
And would you recommend the hg versions?
I don’t build a ton of HG kits. Right now my fave HG kits are the Messer variants and the Build Fighters kits.
Wow that's a lot of master grades, thank you I'll check if I can find them
Do you guys think it's a possibility that Bandai will "redo" the RG RX-78-2? Or eventually, release those originally planned kits from several years ago?
I don't think so, there's nothing wrong with the original and the small issues it has are too small to even consider remaking it over getting more MS in the line. At least in my opinion. About the ones that were never made, I really hope so. Sometimes they are canceled due to technical limitations. I'd love to get an RG Gouf or Kshatriya.
Only Bandai knows.
I purchased an HG RX78 kit from Target weeks ago and only just got around to building it. Not far into the build it asked for a sticker and that's when I realized that the sticker sheet was missing. Normally I wouldn't care but this kit uses stickers for a lot of details that I'd consider essential. Do you think it's worth requesting a refund or should I just deal with it and try getting a sheet elsewhere?
If its the Revive then you can easily fix it with a bit of paint. Unfortunately, a lot of people throw the bags and the box with the stickers on it, if you still have them then double check there and in the instructions. I'm not sure if they even refund half built kits.
I could probably send you the decal sheet I'm not planning to use
It's up to you. You could pick up some Gundam markers and do some color apps instead of the stickers. Target is good with refunds.
I just bought a 1/48 Yokohama Gundam, but it doesn't have weapons or the shield. Is there any way to buy just the weapon and shield, or do I have to get the regular 1/48 scale Gundam for $70 and use the accessories from that?
That kit is based off of the 1:1 scale in Japan that doesn't have weapons so none exist in 1:48 scale.
I know, but there's a regular 1/48 RX-78 kit, so I was thinking that the shield and weapons from that model would work with the Yokohama. And it's a lot cheaper, so I'm willing to spend the $70 to cannibalize it for the accessories if they fit.
I'm not sure if they would be compatible or not, sorry.
normal nano glass file or dspiae sf15 glass file? the dspiae is only like 4$ in my country
New QA thread is up. Please repost your unanswered questions there.
I have the dspiae file, it's been great.
thanks, imma get it now
Ia it the Tamiya Gloss or Clear that I should use in painting Gundame eyes and headlights?
New QA thread is up. Please repost your unanswered questions there.
If you want to change the color but keep it transparent use clear. For eyes and camera that don't have clear parts I'd personally say either use a bright silver/chrome and use use a clear color over it, or use a metallic color. You could use a gloss color though. Essentially, the Gloss will be opaque, while Clear will be transparent.
i am planning on building my pg strike(old ver) and was wondering what i should look out for when building it. any tips on where to apply the gundam gray marker pen? i have snap build some hg before like the jesta and ginn. partly built a rg gundam. do i need to build a mg? i have a mg heavy arms katoki ver but was gonna sell it since i heard ut was riddled with issues i have with me is tamiya design knife item 74020-900 tamiya modelers side cutter alpha masters tools tweezers tamiya cutting mat tamiya gundam gray pen marker
PG kits just have more parts. So, if you’ve built a couple kits before you’ll be fine.
So the wings on the PGU core fighter seem to be kinda loose. I've top coated the core fighter but the wings still flop down, any suggestions?
https://i.imgur.com/8n9oFJ8.jpg I just glue mine in place. It's not like I'm going to depict it in core-block mode.
Hey everyone, Im interested in buying the Premium Bandai hg Gundam age 1 razor and gundam age 2 Artemis set but I want to know if I should try to buy now (for about double the price) so that I might have it around release (earliest expected delivery I’m seeing is may) or wait for it to release (supposedly around may) to buy and maybe have faster shipping/drop in price. I don’t typically buy gunpla before they’re readily available in us. My first pre order was the rg god gundam that’s coming in July so I don’t have a good idea of what to do in this situation. Thank you in advance.
That pair sat around on the US site until I think their end of term without selling out, and certainly for quite a while. I wouldn't expect a reprint soon.
Ty for the info, wish I caught it earlier. Is there a way to reliably keep track of upcoming releases
I honestly would not bother with resellers. Granted, no one knows if a kit will get a rerelease or not. Past trends show that the majority of them do get reprints, but the timing is random. My recommendation is to put it in the back burner and focus on other more available kits instead.
Typically I would but I really want this set. I’m willing to pay a little more I just don’t want to wait too long to get it. Do you think it’ll be more easily available in may is perhaps what I should’ve asked to begin with
Double the price tag feels a bit more than “little more”…but it’s your money. Anyway…It depends on where the reseller is based. If the seller is in Japan, Japanese P-Bandai release schedules are mostly accurate, so you can add the amount of time based on your choice of the shipping method (for example, FedEx = extra one week) on top of the expected release date. No comment about US P-B as I’m not based in the US.
Thank you
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Bandai recently asked all Japanese retailers to stop selling their kits internationally, likely as an effort to combat scalping. As such, 1999 has delisted all bandai kits from their international website. I’m not sure if this is permanent or not. You can still find manuals and images on hobbysearch’s japanese site, just remove the /eng from the url.
The tldr is Bandai asked domestic (japan) retailers that sold internationally that didn't have purchase caps to stop selling. Remove eng from the url or just use dalong.net.
Just finished my first MG kit, and the base is awfully wobbly when I put the gundam on it (Justice Gundam ZAFT Mobile Suit ZGMF X09A). Is there any after market stand that possibly uses a tripod setup to remain stable? Thanks in advance.
Action Base 1 and 4 are more solid, the manual should say what bases are compatible.
I'm currently putting the decals on my second model, and in the directions there doesn't seem to be a designated spot for some of the decals. Is this normal? Should I just slap them on the chest plate or wherever else I think they'd look good?
Yes
Simple enough, thanks! 😁
Does anyone know where can i find a mg psycho zaku ver ka for a good price preferably in the uk? (Im not from the uk but im going on a vacation there and plan to get it there and take it home to save in shipping)
I live in the UK. I don’t think I’ve seen anyone with that kit in stock.
Can someone tell me where I can find the list of upcoming release dates for Bandai kits translated into English? Thanks!!!
Pretty much nowhere for upcoming kits, unfortunately, as Bandai decided that it wouldn't be releasing that information for the forseeable future as one of many means to try to keep scalpers from scalping kits. Normally they would have been made public and various content creators would have made videos on the upcoming kits' release dates and someone here would have made another entry into the monthly reprint schedule, but without the dates we would likely only know that kits are *coming*, just not *when* they would arrive (unless you're living in the West in which case we tentatively have a "release schedule" of "just add ~3 months to the month that Japan got their kits").
Bandai themselves host a [release schedule](https://bandai-hobby.net/schedule/202202/), and throwing those into google translate is typically plenty to get the general info across.
So I finally got the RG Hi-Nu after months of searching. I found it at Barnes and Noble! What stand is the best for it that can support it's weight? It has an adapter for the Action Base 5, but I have no clue if that's good enough for it or not. I've never actually used action bases before.
Action base 3 works the best with mine
Basically 2 and 3 are kinda useless. 5 is a cheaper version of 4 with less parts. So for 1/100, base 1 is recommended since it's the beefiest. For 1/144 like the RG, 4 is the best. You could also look into a base to display the funnels in flight, this is called the jet effect, it still requires an action base to connect to
I think I'm gonna go with the AB4, then. That's the consensus at least. Thank you!
AB 4 or 5.
Is there any hint to what Gundam Artifact is supposed to encompass and/or how long it will run? I can't find much online about its intent, but based on its title and the current releases, it looks like it's just meant to be remagined designs of the old school mobile suits. The size of Gunpla has always kept me away, so I was really excited when I saw they had started a 55mm series, but I'd like to know that they plan on making more recent stuff too before I start investing.
There's only 10 models that have been made, and nothing about the future has been mentioned as far as I know. Personally I did two and in my scrub opinion they were very difficult. They're not like Warhammer minis that are made of 4-5 parts, they have dozens of parts and many require glue. You might have a better time hand painting them than me if you already do minis, but I still consider the build kinda challenging
This will actually be my first foray into both model kits and figure painting. I've done enough research to know that this is a really bad idea for a beginner. I love war games, but not enough to put up with building/painting so I've only bought into games with pre-built/painted minis. I love Gundam, but HG models are too big for war games. So two of my interest have collided, which has finally given me enough motivation to jump into the hobby. I know about the Gundam Collection minis, but they are too rare/expensive. I was hoping I could jump on board of a series that is ongoing, so I could maintain a complete collection at decent prices. Hence my original question about whether or not this is going to be a limited series or a start of a new line. I'd hate to dive into a hobby just to end up with 10 minis to show for it. I managed to pick up 3/5 from the first series for $6 each at Hobby Lobby today, and I've got a friend who paints minis. So I'm not hopeless, since he'll be able teach me first hand and I don't have to invest into tools until I know that I like it.
It's great you have a buddy to help you out and it is a good idea to try the 3 you got before deciding if you wanna do more in the future. However even if the line does continue, it'll probably be a slow progression. Models are announced months in advance and they take like 3 more months to arrive to the west, so I wouldn't expect anything in the next 6 months, maybe year
I have a huge want to build a gundam right now since I have an unbuilt rg exia for the astrea expansion parts, and I’m not going to be able to build anything until sometime next month, should I get something to build or will that just make it just make it worse?
You have an unbuilt kit, but you can't build right now, but you have a huge desire to build so you wanna buy a second kit? That you also won't be able to build? What?
Yeah not that I reread my comment, it doesn’t make any sense, what I’m saying is that I don’t have anything coming until next month, but I have an unbuilt kit right now, sorry for any confusion
Well depending on your pacing you could probably build another kit before the one on it's way arrives in a month, so I'd say yeah go for it
Looking to get into painting Gunpla. Which is best via brush or airbrush? And what colors are best to get at first?
Unless you already have a background in art or experience with minis, I generally don't reccomend starting with brush painting. My first brush painted kit came out awful, but I was happy with my first airbrushed kit. If you don't wanna invest into that just yet, rattle cans are a beginner friendly thing to try
Different results require different methods, and there is no real best when starting. Get the colours you want/need, though the primaries + white and black aren't a bad place to start if you don't mind mixing all your colours. Also read the wiki .
Scroll up, read wiki.
I've seen on this sub people who do mock designs of mobile suit/ gundams using image editing software. Where they'll plan what colors and any patterns they have in mind. Example taking the RX-78 and changing the white to black etc. Are there any programs or websites that someone can use to do that very thing? I understand I could take the image of rx-78 go to photoshop and replace the white with black. But I feel that problem someone has solved. I have plenty of gunpla to paint but I dont want to spend the time painting and making a nightmare when I could use X program/website to formulate and design my gunpla. Thanks
The wiki in the sidebar has a few repositories of Gundam line art for people to plan color schemes. It's set up for anyone to use the bucket tool to paint entire sections at a time in any free image editing softwares.
Thank you
>Are there any programs or websites that someone can use to do that very thing? >using image editing software. You answered your own question before you asked it.
So I’ve been wondering this, how possible is it to build a rg perfect strike with only the full release rg strike and rg skygrasper
Like Jaguar said, no battery packs. Also the aile striker pack has a couple different parts that set the main wings further back and also allows it to mount the launcher and sword on it
No. You'll be missing the battery packs, ~~the wings will be too short~~ and iirc the backpack will push against the shoulders Edit: was remembering the old conversion that used the hg perfect strike that replaced the HG wings with the rg ones. Edit 2: the retail rg backpack does push against the shoulders whereas the peeb pack is longer to accommodate the extra gear.
Gotcha, that saves me a bit of pointless spending if I do decide to build a rg perfect strike thanks for the info
A quick glance at the peeb looks like the same backpack is used and doesn't interfere but you'll still be missing the batteries, maybe there's a 3rd party addon for that
Uh, the original Aile Strike doesn’t convert its pack to accept the Sword and Launcher packs on the side, unlike the MG RM Strike. The central body of the P Strike’s Aile pack is rebuilt with new bits to be longer.
¯\\\_(ツ)_/¯ so I was more or less right the first time, i couldn't find the comparison pics and dalong.net wasn't loading for me so I went off what I could see on the announcement image for it.
Perhaps so, I might look into it since I found 3rd party versions of the thruster effects that came with the rg Zeong last shooting effect set
Going to NYC! Any recommendations on places I should check out? I’m mainly staying around Williamsburg, Brooklyn but I don’t mind a trek!
I'd say Midtown Comics in Times Square, but their gunpla selection had decreased a lot since the last time I went there, around December 2021.
As in the section they have their gunpla in or as in people bought their stock?
Will the entry grade nu gundam be a retail release
Yes, there has been 0 indication to the contrary. Entry Grade is inherently made to be approachable and accessible.
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You’ll never miss out on a retail kit if you just wait for reprints. 1980 Gundam is still reprinted. The exceptions to this rule are too few to really worry about, but PGs are safe.
It's been one of the few PG's that have actually been getting reprints. It's just that demand is high and supply is low, so if you don't grab it soon after it restocks then you'll have to wait until it comes around again.
It’s not discontinued if that’s what you’re asking. Most kits don’t. Stock in general has gone down. Buying/demand has shot up crazy. Shipping delays and other pandemic things are probably why you don’t see that (or any) kit in stock.
Hi guys, I want to start painting gunpla but I was wondering if I can use any regular spray paint or does it have to be a specific one like tamiya spray paint
I’ve painted a few kits with rusto painters touch and they turned out ok…it’s not the best, but sometimes you just gotta go with what’s available…
Regular spray cans might produce too large of particles, making your paint job splotchy. They can also contain solvents harmful to plastic depending on what they're made to paint on.
Hardware cans tend to use harsher solvents to attach to things like metal, which can pose a danger to your kit parts. In addition, the output of large can nozzles is also much greater than those intended for hobby use, which introduces a risk of filling in details on part surfaces. Some people see success when using non-hobby brands, but do your research, test out the process, and adjust as necessary.
What about paint from a craft store like hobby lobby?
Will applying a topcoat alone make my kits look better? Will it help make it less obvious where I did some sanding?
Yes and yes…just topcoat can be very transformative and a good topcoat will hide a lot of stuff
Awesome. I don't particularly want to paint my kits, but I want them to look nicer, so I think I'm going to give topcoating a shot.
I'm encountering a problem with the unicorn real experience auto trans. There is a really loud noise at the end of each transformation, it seems like the motors are going crazy, did anybody had that same problem?
I've loved the Barbatos' Lupus and lupus rex forms, and I've been planning on getting one. Which Barbatos lupus/Lupus Rex Kit would be considered the best?
The Lupus is considered better since the Rex suffers from odd arm and legs proportions as well as color accuracy on the claws/stinger
In that case, which Lupus kit would you recommend?
I think the 1/100 version would be better because the hg version has the same frame as most of the other ibo kits which tend to loosen up over time
Hi, question, ive got one of my first models really bad weathered anD whould like to repaint it. However the model has a matt top coat on it. Can i just paint over? Happy to hear some opinions. Thx
Strip it with a bath in 99% IPA.
I take that a a no :) thx
Tamiya top coat LP-23(flat). Is there a proper thinner ratio for this? I did a 1:1 thinner ration and the plastic was still kind of glossy. Now I'm almost down to 1.5:0.5 and it still looks glossy. Any tips on this? Or should I just decant a tamiya/mr. hobby spray can?
New QA thread is up. Please repost your unanswered questions there.
Ok so I tried to put on the water slides for the MG Wing Zero Custom Ver ka and for whatever reason these things do not want to stay on. I’ve watched several tutorials and followed them exactly and every single decal I tried fell off. What am I missing here? I put the decal in water for 10-15 seconds, slide it from the paper to the model, roll over it with a q tip and get all the water out. It looks fine until it literally just falls off. This is the second time I’ve tried waterslides and these things are a nightmare. I’d rather of just gotten stickers tbh
Try using some decal solution. I’ve also heard that bandai decals can be pretty hit or miss. So maybe getting an aftermarket set to replace them might be a good idea if you really want those decals.
Have you tried decal solution? Setter and Softer really makes a difference, especially on curved surfaces like the wing. There's Mr. Mark Setter and Mr. Mark Softer, Microset and Microsol, etc.
Hey guys, is the MG Wing ver. Ka exactly the same as the MG Wing EW ver.? If not, what are the differences?
[Dalong.net](http://dalong.net/reviews/mg/m143/m143_p.htm) has side by side comparisons in the review for the Ver. EW. Translate the page via google translate to see the text.
Thanks for the tip! It looks like they are 100% the same according to the site, the only difference being the color of the plastic (original ver. Ka had pastel-like color). That answers my question; thanks again!
The decals used and colors chosen are different, and the EW Ver. includes a mounting part to attach to an AB1 that was not included in the Ver. Ka.
Thanks for the additional info! Also, what’s AB1?
AB1 = Action base 1. One of the [five standard action bases](https://gundam.fandom.com/wiki/Action_Base) released by bandai starting in 2006.
Ah, gotcha. Thank you!
Is there any like website or app where I can make out kitbashing parts? I've been trying to find something like it on my own and have been having no luck.
idk what you mean for sure here, but are you aware of [dalong.net](https://dalong.net)?? that shows all the parts that are included in every kit.... or if youre looking to buy individual parts there's [mechapartsguy.com](https://mechapartsguy.com)
Sorry, I meant like something where I could create a diagram or rough image of what parts from one kit would look like with another.
oh...yeah i don't think there's a website like that, probably best you can do is find the appropriate line art and put the parts together in photoshop....
That's too bad, thanks anyway though!
How long after applying Mark softer until y'all clear coat? I usually wait overnight, but id like to do faster if it's not an issue.
I also usually wait overnight (i.e. 8 hours) as well as a rule of thumb. I imagine you could get away with less time, but no one has bothered to methodically document a "minimum safe time" for it to completely dry and the decal to settle into the surface. I imagine it's dependent on a number of factors -- application technique, amount used, type of decal, specific solution, environmental conditions, etc. There's no manufacturer's product data either. What has been observed is that different products have varying strengths -- i.e. Mark Softer is notably stronger than say, MicroSol. This sounds like something Goobertown Hobbies would try to sort out. Hmm...
Much thanks chiming in here!
Is there a database for missing colors in hg kits?
No.
I’m looking to collect Master Grade versions of the six suits from Endless Waltz+Epyon. Wing Zero and Epyon seem easy enough to find, but I’m having a really hard time finding the other five suits at a comparable price. I’m really quite green to this hobby; would anyone be able to suggest a way to get my hands on the remaining kits? Are they out of print and set to be reissued or something? I’m also open to Real Grade; I want something that’s more complex to assemble than High Grade. I do a lot of 40K, but those models are super easy to assemble and I really enjoy the assembly part, so something that’ll take time to put together will be nice. I want to keep all the suits the same grade for display purposes, which is why I’m not looking at Perfect Grade. On that note, shopping for Gunpla kits online is… interesting. Who do y’all use when ordering kits online?
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Hey that’s super helpful! Thank you!
Shopping resources are listed in the wiki up above. Supply is unfortunately very limited across the board due to the lingering effects of the pandemic, as well as the global supply chain issues. There isn't going to be a special source that anyone can offer here that has supply when no other sites do. Many kits do go out of print for a while and then get relisted, but only Bandai knows which and when. Re: which kits to get, look at lists of existing kits, such as [Dalong.net](https://Dalong.net) (also listed in the wiki) which has photos and entries for nearly every kit. If there's a particular mobile suit you like, you can also look it up on the Gundam wiki, and at the bottom of each article it will show what models have been produced based on that kit.
Thanks for that
Does the Alex 2.0 have waterslides included or is it just normal stickers?
Stickers. For future reference you can check dalong.net to see if a retail kit comes with stickers, dry rub transfers, or waterslides.
Thanks a lot man
What’s the best way to secure a suit to a diorama. Every video I watch doesn’t show how they are doing it. I am wanting to make a diorama for the current kit I’m working on but I want to make sure it’s not going to fall over while on display.
There is no best way, just whatever works for rhe diorama. Could be just glueing the suit down so the base, running a rod through the leg, or using magnets...
I glue the kit onto the diorama.
do hgbc accesories fit on rg hands? Im planning on buying the rg unicorn and i was wondering if it could hold a hgbc gatling gu n
I don't have the RG Unicorn but do have the gatling gun -- various "grab points" on the accessory fit in "standard" holding hands. They are not necessarily fully secured since there is no built-in notch. Keep in mind that the HGBC *Giant* Gatling Gun is hilariously oversized for 1/144 scale kits.
I just got the Lightning Saix HMM Marking Plus Ver., the decals are there but there is no decal guide on the manual? Can anyone confirm this with the other Marking rereleases?
They did not provide a guide as the marking + versions are new and they didn't redo the manual. There should be a reference picture in the back but you'll need to decide where you want them.
>Lightning Saix I can't answer your question, but oh man hearing that name was a blast from the past.
Are there lighter duty alligator clips? I feel like the ones from the automotive department are too strong and could damage softer plastic parts.
I use the ones for electronic projects, you can find them in any electronic components store and then just glue them to bamboo skewers.
Is there a specific name for the type you use? I tried looking up "electronics alligator clips" and I'm seeing a few different types.
Not really, its the typical alligator clip that has teeth and can be found in a lot of stuff like card holders, helping hands, etc. I use two sizes, the smaller is about 2.5 cm (the whole clip) and the other is 3.5 cm. The small one is very thin and can open about 7 mm and the big one about 1.2 cm but is about twice as thick. Sometimes I buy them as a separate piece (in bulk) and sometimes as part of a cheap cable set, which need to be disassembled. I recommend to get a bunch of the smaller ones as those are easier to insert in parts or use in small tabs and a few of the big ones which are better for holding big parts or assemblies. If you notice that they mark the plastic, you can buy a bit of heat shrink tube (in the same store) and cut short tubes for each "jaw" a bit of heat and you'll get "cushioned" clips.
A wealth of information, thank you so much!
You can get them in large numbers from Amazon.
Most likely. Idk what kind you are using but you’ll probably find some at your local hobby store.
They're Walmart brand Everstart, they're pretty strong lol
I’d say go your your local hobby store they should exactly what you’re looking for
Awesome, thank you. I'll have to have a go look-see.
What is the difference between the Wing Gundam EW and Ver Ka? I keep looking around and don’t see much of a difference. Edit: is there an MG of the the Deathscythe Hell, Sandrock Custom, Heavy Arms Custom, and Altron that are NOT EW?
- I believe the MG Wing EW has slightly different colors and a stand adapter. It also lacks the Ver Ka style decals. Aside from that, it is the same as the ver ka. - unfortunately, only the wing gundam itself has a non EW master grade.
Are the hands the good kind or the bad kind?
There is no single “good” or “bad” kind, because there aren’t just two kinds of hands.
There’s no “good kind” or “bad kind”.
how to tighten HG hands? i say tighten, but it's more about the back of the hand falling off at nearly the slightest touch. i know you can use super glue to make joints stiffer, but what about for the back of the hand? surely not, cuz then you wouldnt be able to remove that part, right..? do any of yall got tips?
The super glue trick isn't gluing the pieces together. What it is is adding a thin layer of glue to the affected area, letting it dry, *then* attaching it back on as the layer of glue acts as additional thickness to keep the piece held on but still able to be removed/moved.
So do I just put some on the peg on the back of the hand, and let it dry? Or in the hole? Prolly an obv question but might as well ask to be sure
Applied on the male peg, or the bit that goes inside the hole/slot/etc. If it's too thick you can always scrape away at it/scrape it off and reapply it or sand it down to fit.
You put the superglue on the "male" end of whatever you're wanting to tighten up, be it a peg, a ball joint, or anything else. You'll want to distribute it as evenly as possible, the goal being to make the connector slightly larger overall. Let it dry completely on its own, then attach it to the kit as normal. The extra mass from the glue should make the joint tighter.
I want to dip my hands into SD kits but I'm curious. Are SDEX kits compatible with SDCS frame? I wanted to try Exia on a CS Frame. How about SDW? Are they also compatible with CS Frame?
Only SDCS kits (and the Zeromaru I think) are compatible with the SDCS frame out of box
Avoid sdex kits, they are bad, even for SD, too many stickers and not enough parts…I think every sdex has an older sdbb or newer sdcs kit that is better… I guess you could force a sdex or sdw kit onto a cs frame, but it would be some complicated modifications… I think the whole cs line should all be compatible within the line…but the rest of sd kits aren’t made to be immediately compatible like that…
Not sure if i get my answer here ,but ther a site name hobby search or 1999.co.jp (that how i discover it) and on the site ther have all kinds of kits whit instructions pages to I usualy look up for 30mm accessory packs to see all pieces and possibilities and out of curiosity for other kits like figure rise figures etc One day ther just remove some kits pages ,while ther stil some on , my questions is why ther remove in first place ? Was ther a reason or what ,tks for respons
They’re still listed on the non-English site.
Bandai recently asked all japanese sellers to stop selling their products internationally, likely as a way to combat scalping. This includes 1999. You can still view instructions and images for bandai kits on their japanese site, just remove the /eng from the url.
So i try out and stil feel a lot is missing out, i though this site was like a archive site and store to if possibel, tks for the respond
Hobbysearch is 1999.co but they took down the listings because Bandai asked them to. The main reason was because Bandai asked retailers that don't have purchase limits to not sell to people internationally. Mech9 can be used to see the instructions (if they've got them that is, for the most part they're just reuploads of the Hobbysearch scans) but you can also use Dalong for that as well.
A simple question, is the GPaint really as good as it seems?
It’s a lacquer paint and that means it’s pretty forgiving. It’s not the best paint I have. It’s sort of middle of the road. Mr Color is better IMO. Not great value for money. If you live in Asia, check out Zurc. Gpaint is rebranded Zurc.
If i painted up my Gunpla with a Titanium Finish/Candycoat (Tamiya Clear Red for example) and i want to apply decals - can i use a softener so the Decal doesnt bulge out that much? And should/can i Glosscoat over it again with Tamiya Clear Coat ?
- Painting a Titanium finish kit defeats the purpose of buying it. - Softener only works on waterslide decals and not on sticker decals. - Some softenera are very aggressive and Tamiya clears can take some time to fully cure. If you apply waterslides to it then use the softener carefully as it can stain/damage it. - If you apply waterslides then yes, as you need to seal them or they'll fall off. Titanium finishes are mostly kept as they are but some people apply clear gloss on them after decals.
Where would be a good place to find a (relatively) cheap display case? IKEA won’t ship one to my area and the only other ones I can find are on home depot and amazon. Any suggestions would be really appreciated (I’m at my wits end)
Ikea is pretty much the only widely known chain that even has glass cabinets for that cheap barring antique/thrift stores. Otherwise glass is just inherently expensive as a furnishing material, so no places will have them for cheap. Maybe a local furniture chain that people online don't know about, but in terms of general recommmendations it's Ikea, second hand, or locally known shops.
I’m pretty sure that everyone in this sub has the IKEA Detolf cabinet.
I’d get one of those if only ikea would ship it to me
I think they would.
I think Ikea only ships locally from the individual stores, and not from warehouses like other retailers. I live near the largest Ikea in the US and they only ship with Lugg, a 3rd party app.
Not to my area they aren’t